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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/21/2021 in all areas

  1. Thanks so much for the comment guys! I really appreciate the input and encouragement! The last two days have been spent applying decals. Since the green mottle covered much of the stenciling, there wasn't a great number of decals to put on. But since I could not get the Portrait cutter to replicate the very fine black outlines on some of the markings, notably the big yellow "10", decals were used. I spent the majority of these two days patiently trying to get the yellow 10's to conform to the rivets and panel lines. First Microsol and then Solvaset was used and I still couldn't get them to sit down, so I resorted to a knife. The panel lines within the yellow areas are a bit ragged and I'm trying to clean those up as much as possible. I don't think they'll be an issue after the panel wash but I'm taking the extra time now as decal solvent won't work after a clear coat is applied. A view of the bottom, which is patiently waiting for the next stage in the build which will be the panel wash.
    17 points
  2. Dandiego

    Delta Dart

    Slow progress on small details. First are the speedbrakes. I have covered the 3d printed part with a sheet of thin plastic, the overall look has improved. I have also added a strip of plastic around the edge. This greatly improves the rather lumpy edge of the 3d part. Next is the rear trapeze for the Falcon missiles. This has taken a fair amount of head scratching to get to this point. The arms of the trapeze have been 3d printed. They are then place into a 3d printed alignment jig. I have also added a cable to the assembly. With Falcon. In Situ. That's all, Dan
    13 points
  3. with some primer....
    8 points
  4. engine test shot as posted on britmodeller https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235044199-132-curtiss-p-40b-tomahawk-by-great-wall-hobby-gwh-design-model3d-renders-release-in-2021/
    7 points
  5. LSP_Ray

    JetMads 1/32 Viggen

    OK, guys and gals, the walkaround is live. I suggest also perusing the other walkarounds posted there, not to mention helping increasing the number of walkarounds we have!
    6 points
  6. Small update. I actually found a throttle that I had made for a previous build but lost. I was on my hands and knees looking for something else when I found it (isn't that how it always works? But the timing was good!). Even though it looks pretty much identical to the kit part, I just went ahead and used it. In looking at the engine plug assembly in a dry-fit state, I've come to the conclusion that I won't add much to it. I think it's busy enough for my liking, as is. However, there are a couple of things I still wanted to address in this area; the spent case chutes and the ammo bin. I decided that I will be adding some rivets to the bins, one way or another. Not sure yet if I'll just run the rivet wheel over the part, or add some Archer raised rivets (assuming I have the right size on hand). After opening up the chutes on the belly center piece, I grabbed some rectangular brass tubing from the stash and checked it against the kit part. As luck would have it, I had one piece of tubing that is pretty much a perfect fit. Apparently, the modeling gods are smiling on me today, so I'll run with it. I already started priming/painting some of the engine plug parts and will be working that assembly into shape, as soon as I get everything fitted properly with the chutes and ammo bins. However, I fear that to get everything measured out properly to be as flush as possible, I will have to have the fuselage halves in place and possibly the lower wing section, as well. Hoping I can do that all by dry-fitting/taping. Keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks for checking in! John
    5 points
  7. I have not been very productive of late as I have been spending most of my modeling time on my dark side hobby (model trains) but I did manage to finish one back in January that has been on my shelf of doom for way too long. It was there waiting for me to master the paint job I wanted and finally admitted defeat and finished it the best I could. The B-8 version was the proposed high altitude night fighter and none were ever built. The kit is the Tamiya B-2 variant to which was added two resin sets from Paragon. (I really miss them) The first being the night fighter conversion and the other was the extended wing set for the B-4 version. As you can see I used and inverse method on the paint scheme as I found I was better at painting blobs than creating them by painting round them. Since none were ever built I chose to use some artistic license. I replaced the resin antenna arrays with a set from Master that wasn't available at the time I started the kit. In the end I was happy with the result. A build log can be found here http://www.olddogsplanes.com/335b8.htm if interested. And a comparison photo with a B-1 variant Thanks for looking !
    5 points
  8. A few months ago I began working on detailed drawings for a number of ordnance items, as well as all new drawings for an F/A-18. The drawings are based off of personal photos, measurements, drawings and technical information from Boeing and Navair. This past week I completed the drawings for the SUU-62 center line pylon, SUU-63 wing pylon and the BRU-32 bomb rack. Out of curiosity, I decided to pull out a pylon from one of my Academy Hornets and the difference was a bit more than I expected. There are several modelers that have and will continue to build the kit as it comes out of the box, which is perfectly acceptable! However, there are also several modelers that like to know this type of stuff, then decide on their own if correcting the parts is worth it. This is just a general FYI in case you fall into the latter category. Obviously, the orange outline in the kit pylon. The yellow outline, as well as the completed pylon are based off of measurements of the real item.
    4 points
  9. Ironwing

    RYAN STA 1/18

    Greetings All Ive begun sorting out the wing. I cut the wing drawing from a copy of the plan and laminated it to a piece .030 card using a glue stick. The two are then peeled apart. For some reason, part of the drawing image transfered to the card and that is fortuitous for sure.
    4 points
  10. https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=105045&start=4065#p2415928 It says it's should be out in April. But there's no mention of it on the Roden web. Juraj
    4 points
  11. Hi all, I've now created the inner interplane struts. The rear struts are fitted to the fuselage through the cut-outs in the rear of the lower wing centre section. Now onto the tailplane and wing floats support struts, Mike
    4 points
  12. filled it with fine grade carputty. i got six usable ones (lots of unusables, some lost) mounted to the vinyl panel
    4 points
  13. there are two panels to access the side machine guns. these have three vents each, teardrop shaped and with cutouts i made a little stamp
    4 points
  14. i am slowly thinking about exterior paint, but have to add all kinds detail to the fuselage first lump and (fuel) dump, locations of the wire antenna on the bottom
    4 points
  15. Just a quick video follow up. The Mustang had its airshow debut at Sun N Fun in Lakeland, Florida last week. It was awarded the Grand Champion Warbird by the EAA judges! 44-72059 debuts at Sun N Fun 2021
    4 points
  16. Scale: 1/32 Kit: Trumpeter Aircraft: AV-8B Harrier Unit: USMC VMA 311 Tomcats Aftermarket: Aerobonus Pilot with Seat Paint: Ammo by MiG Jinenez, Vallejo, Tamiya Weathering: Flory Models Washes, Oilbrusher Ammo, Panel Line Wash Ammo I am pleased to present you latest finished model. It is the Trumpeter rendering of the Harrier. No alterations made, straight OOB with only the addition of an Aerobonus (Aires) pilot with seat as the kit seat really did not look proper. I am doubting the helmet used on the figure fits the era, (I would prefer the pilot to have an HGU-55) but I left it as is mainly as I had no spare head sitting around. The kit itself was actually built by a friend of mine and it was for me to do the finishing and final painting and weathering so my friend did all the heavy lifting of the build so I cannot comment on how the kit falls together. I am aware that the kit has obvious shape issues and inaccuracies however the model does resemble a Harrier for me. Tried some new things in terms of weathering for me. In the end I am happy with results. Happy modeling everyone and stay safe!
    3 points
  17. A big 'holy grail' kit for me, always wanted to scratch build one, but i've no need to now... with thanks to OneManModels on eBay, who has produced this excellent model. (also responsible for the HAL 748, Andover etc in 1/32nd!) This is just pushed together for the photo, but the fit is brilliant and won't take too long to put together once cleaned up and smoothed off... It's big too, 32" x 17" x 8" roughly. Extremely excited to finally have this. Enjoy!
    3 points
  18. Hello friends! This is our 1/32 scale interiors releases for about a month: 1/32 Me 163B 3D-Printed & coloured Interior on decal paper (for Meng kit) Article: QD32017 Available to buy: https://quinta-studio.com/en/product/279/ https://www.ebay.com/itm/164760687729 https://www.etsy.com/listing/981548389 1/32 A6M5 (Mitsubishi prod.) 3D-Printed & coloured Interior on decal paper (for Tamiya kit) Article: QD32026 Available to buy: https://quinta-studio.com/en/product/284/ https://www.ebay.com/itm/164787698021 https://www.etsy.com/listing/976801800 1/32 A6M5 (Nakajima prod.) 3D-Printed & coloured Interior on decal paper (for Tamiya kit) Article: QD32027 Available to buy: https://quinta-studio.com/en/product/285/ https://www.ebay.com/itm/164787699279 https://www.etsy.com/listing/976802524 1/32 Bf 109G-6 3D-Printed & coloured Interior on decal paper (for Revell kit) Article: QD32029 Available to buy: https://quinta-studio.com/en/product/288/ https://www.ebay.com/itm/164800279674 https://www.etsy.com/listing/995911589 1/32 Bf 109G-10 3D-Printed & coloured Interior on decal paper (for Revell kit) Article: QD32045 Available to buy on our website: https://quinta-studio.com/en/product/290/ https://www.ebay.com/itm/164810487275 https://www.etsy.com/listing/999875203 1/32 Bf 109G-10 3D-Printed & coloured Interior on decal paper (for Trumpeter kit) Article: QD32046 Available to buy on our website: https://quinta-studio.com/en/product/291/ https://www.ebay.com/itm/164810493558 https://www.etsy.com/listing/999875817
    3 points
  19. Here is how I did it.... If this is correct then I can do the other side....and then replace all the lost surface detail. Nothin like making more work for yourself!
    3 points
  20. Looks great. My kind of project. Dan
    3 points
  21. Ironwing

    RYAN STA 1/18

    The current plan is to run spars of appropriate height at specific points to mimic cord depth the length of each wing panel but stopping short of the tip. The tips, I hope to vacform as a single piece. I hope be able to vacform the leading edges as well. Since my vacform machine isnt big enough, it would have to be done in sections and then joined on the wing panel. Once the leading edges are attached, the plan is to cover the rest of the wing with .020 card bent over the spars. The spars pictured are of different heights but its hard to tell. They dont vary by much. Still a bunch of head building to do but thats just part of the fun. Im also open to suggestions if anyone has some. Hope everyone is well.. Best Geoff
    3 points
  22. Hey guys thanks for encouragement! There’s more film in the ‘puter being edited. I building up some episode so I can release more regularly. I appreciate the patience this project is 100% go. Break.... Pig, Tis a GR3A....
    3 points
  23. long ago i bought some gum like stuff that softens with hot water and gets hard when cool. i put it in a tiny box heated and stamped nine indentions into it three times actually to get 27 copies
    3 points
  24. Phantom2

    HPH Catalina

    I love this one; Cheers! Stefan
    3 points
  25. johncrow

    1/32 Su-30SM

    Time sure flies. I have been working a bit on this. The kit intakes do not come to a point like they should. I don't know if mine were all broken, or if they are designed that way. I guess I could open up another kit to know for sure, but either way, the problem remains. I added small bits of plastic and reshaped intakes a bit so they are much sharper. Also, as the sides of the intakes are just a bit longer than they were, the top of the intake doesn't match the sides. I added a small piece of sheet styrene to extend the top to meet the sides. All parts in these pics are just dry-fitted. I'll do a little painting of the interior of the intakes first, prior to any glue. I did a WIP of my last Flanker project, in part to have a record of what I had done. I knew even back then that I'd be doing other similar projects, and I'd hoped that would help me remember what I'd done. Nope. The few photos I took of this part of the build were no help. I remember the last canards involved Milliput and styrene, but that's about it. So I put some thought into it, and this is what I'm going to do this time. I don't really know for sure if it's what I did last time. Either way, I started with a piece of sheet styrene cut to the approximate shape of the canards. Again, just dry-fitted in the approximate location for now. Milliput and styrene to follow. I had intended to do this canopy-down, so was going to pretty much stick to the kit cockpit. I have since discovered a potentially fatal flaw in that plan...more on that later after I've thought about it...so may have to go canopy up. Regardless, the cockpit will be close to stock, but maybe now I'll add some resin seats. Thanks for checking this out, jp
    3 points
  26. The first of many X 2! I'll buy this for certain. Great Wall Hobby should go straight forward with the P-51B.......
    3 points
  27. Hacker

    F-15EX in 1/32

    Here is a curiosity question. Can you take the Tamyia kit and upgrade it to the new EX variant? To me they both looks the same except for the internals. Hacker...too much time on his hands
    2 points
  28. modelforum.cz Mr. Riedel answers some questions regarding the Whirlwind here: They are preparing "Hi-tech" version for the release later on. And also some add-ons for wheels, cannons, full cannon armament, boarding pilot's figure and more... Juraj
    2 points
  29. blackbetty

    Delta Dart

    very nice work, Dan!
    2 points
  30. A quick look at the GWH SU-27’s will quickly relax those fears. The GWH Flankers have better surface detail than any kit i er ever seen including the Minibase kit.. Simply superb...
    2 points
  31. MikeMaben

    Delta Dart

    Cool stuff Dan
    2 points
  32. allthumbs

    Delta Dart

    Great work Dan! I respect you for taking on such unique challenges. Rich
    2 points
  33. Been chunking away at this one, but not really producing anything that’s going to show up well in a photo. I have: filled and cleaned up the seams on both wings, rescribed them, and then carefully scraped and filed the bases until they fit cleanly flush to the fuselage. So it should be possible to paint them before attaching them. assembled the engine nacelles, filled seams, smoothed them out, rescribed one of two. Still need to fix the scribing on the second one and then fix the tabs that mount them to the wings, which totally don’t fit now. Goal is to get them also to fit flush so I can paint them off of the wings. finished smoothing out the fuselage seams and mostly completed rescribing the main part of it. I still need to give the aft part of the fuselage a few more passes with sandpaper to get it fully blended in. The overall experience is that this is a *big* airplane in a short-run kit, so there’s just a lot of surface area to deal with getting up to grade. But it is coming along with no major stumbling blocks; just lots of “proper modeling” to be done. Once the nacelles and fuselage are done it’ll be time to shoot some primer and take stock. Several more hours of work to be done before that, though. In separate news, I got a copy of the Zvezda IL-86 kit in the mail today from a gent in Latvia. And as interesting synchronicity, the Uzbekistan Airlines decals for said kit from AHS in Arizona at the same time. So add that one to the queue. Maybe soon. I kind of feel like doing a lower-effort kit before diving back into the stack of elbow-grease-intensive short run ones.
    2 points
  34. 2 points
  35. Work on the wing started. (1) On all parked A-4's the slats droop and fortunately the Hasegawa kit has separate slats. There is however a noticeable "step" that should not be there as seen here. (2) Most trailing edge flaps also are seen drooped on parked A-4's as well. Later A-4 versions also had a split upper flap. Here the kit only provides a solid rear wing so cutting with a razor saw is needed: So thin new upper split flaps, which will be set closed but need to be made from new thin plastic card. (3) Although Hasegawa provides a sort on interior with tubes in the lower wing halves for the main gear bays, these are a bit thick and undeep. I will simply cut these out and they can be later be glued to the bottom (this being the upper wing halves) or make new ones from scrap. To be done. Before cutting and working on these areas..... (4) The wing was re-scribed with a scriber using the raised kit lines as guide. I drew lines with a pencil at these lines. When done, lines were inscribed. Next, the raised lines were sanded off with the now new inscribed panellines remaining. Make sure to keep the very good vortex generators at the wing. The "step" at the the slat section was to be made invisible.... The wing trailing edge sections were cut. I also decided to remove the ailerons and set these separately later on. The removed trailing edge flaps were sanded thinner and will get a rounded nose. The removed wing area were closed with thin plastic card. These represent the upper split flap section but will be set "closed". All needs to to be blended in and made flat with putty and sanding. When done, rescribe some panellines and gaps. (not yet done). Step work was done with putty. A couple of sanding and putty passes were needed to get smooth results. Protect the surrounding areas with tape. The split flaps were also tackled, puttied and to be sanded blended in.... NOTE: between the flaps a detailed mid-section is seen; Hasegawa suggests this can be drooped open for engine access / cooling, a very nice suggestion as it is often seen on parked A-4's. Will be considered later on. and the result.... some more putty is still needed.... To be continued....
    2 points
  36. It's been really busy at work, even with the stay at home orders and non essential closures. Have had very little time or energy for models, just enough energy to lurk a bit. Saturday morning, started in on the paint, and by tonight, sunday, i had all the paint down on the build. I stayed with the Norm 72 scheme, want to see it through to completion. The last time it looked like this was just over 2 months ago. All paints again worked great, really like the AK Real Colors and the Tamiya Lacquer Paints. Hope to clear coat it Wednesday, then decals Saturday. I was going to strip the tanks, but they look workable and i'm almost out of paint. This paint is pretty tough, but stripped easily with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. No hard scrubbing or scraping, soaked a paper towel and wiped away. Don
    2 points
  37. more work on the pit there are still details missing on the seats
    2 points
  38. johncrow

    1/32 Su-30SM

    Thanks Giorgos, JMcD! Much appreciated. I bit of progress to report. One of the vac-formed windscreens from my Su-33 project I initially rejected (but thankfully saved) was better than I thought. With a bit of trimming, a dunk in hot water, some polishing, and dip in Future, it came out OK. These parts look pretty rough yet in their naked state, but I'm pretty happy with how it's progressing. Certainly not perfect, but better than what the Su-30 kit had from the box. Getting to this point took probably 15 times longer on the Su-33, and still looked worse. Thanks for checking things out, jp
    2 points
  39. This is what I managed to build from the huge box almost 2 years ago. Gotha G.I 42/15 Feodora. Not an easy build at all, especially when one faces the unusual for WNW faults in manufacture - misaligned mould halves leading to some severe sanding work - all the bits required a lot of treatment. Especially thin lines/cables/pipes... Anyway, still, when the parts are cleaned what remains is a set of quite finely fitting elements - quite a bonus when one takes into account the unorthodox form of this aircraft. All in all, I am very happy to have this weird bird in my cabinet.
    1 point
  40. here I am in the preparation phase, for colours I mean. Cleaning of all the elements, filling gaps in joints, preparing rigging stations... Among the latter I decided to replace the flat imitations of turnbuckles in those fancy undercarriage rigging bits with Gaspatch parts. The rigging on this bird is not too complex, only 20 turnbuckles all around. I have also made some surgery with the engine covers, thinning them down. They will definitely be left aside the model except for the rectangular cover for carburettor inspection. And now to wash the surfaces and warm up the airbrush!
    1 point
  41. This keeps getting better and better. Thanks for sharing this with us Jeff.
    1 point
  42. Nice work so far Timmy Derek
    1 point
  43. Time for the HGW wet transfers, and a big thank you to the clear tutorials that have appeared here on LSP for encouraging me to try them. Way back in 2009 I still did not like decals so I tried some Hobbydecal dry transfers which worked well, though the English was not the best, but they were hard to find so I was left with using decals. So I bought two of these, one for this build and one for a future SH Tempest build This is what is in the packet. Instructions As well as the instructions, there is also a very helpful video on the internet from HGW, the instructions on the packet do say it all. So on with the show all ready to go warm water, Mr Softener, tweezers, new #11 blade, cotton buds and a toothpick.. I have read that others have used a different decal solution but I was taking no chances and used the recommended one. And it was really easy, applying them was easier than normal decals as they are a bit more tolerant to handling than ordinary decals. A tip that I did pick up from here on LSP was to turn a corner up on the film to aid removal. I did all the stencils on one wing (bottom of) and left them well alone for a day. Removing the film was easy and I was just left with the stencil, a quick wipe with a wet (water) cotton bud and any residue was gone, and they looked great. On the stencils for the Tempest there is an emergency canopy jam rescue stencil in red which I could not find on any photos of Tempests, a search revealed a post on Britmodeller started by the Typhoon and Tempest guru Chris Thomas which identifies that this is a post war stencil, so thank you Chris. That's all for now Cheers Dennis
    1 point
  44. Best paint-slinger in the biz!
    1 point
  45. Still not decided to make a US Navy TA-4J or an Australian Navy (RAN) TA-4G. Looking at the cockpit I have a couple of questions: (1) ESCAPAC seat... A nice info link on LSP about the ESCAPAC seat is seen here: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/24882-escapac-seats/&tab=comments#comment-206951 Here a few drawings from manuals and particularly at the upper section/ head rest some differences are seen: =========== What seat did the RAN TA-4G use? Was it the old ESCAPAC 1C-3 seat? Or were these aircraft upgraded later on after delivery and got the 1G-3 or even get the 1F-3 (which would be very similar to the 1G-3...) ? It seems that the AVIONIX resin cockpit set is a copy of the Black Box set, reviewed here on LSP: https://www.largescaleplanes.com/reviews/review.php?rid=1541 Unfortunately I only have a single instruction page in my AVIONIX set with only a few photos (so no further details...) Here a few photos of my AVIONIX set: The 2 seats in this set are much better and are now separate parts (they appear to be the ESCAPAC 1C-3 : Any suggestion for the RAN TA-4G seats? ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ (2) instrument panels: The 2 AVIONIX resin instrument panel parts are a "copy" of the Hasegawa kit parts... Are these usable for a RAN TA-4G? I believe I saw some photos of instrument panels that had more couple of CRT rectangular screens (or where these also an upgrade retrofit?). A photo of both RAN TA-4G forward and rear panel would be great.... Suggestions welcome!
    1 point
  46. markiii

    MH-6M Little Bird

    Step by Step
    1 point
  47. Yep, sorry to say it, but the SAC gear are garbage. Does Damian (SOW) make gear for this kit yet, anyone?
    1 point
  48. It looks more rounded on top (lengthwise) and a flare at the rear lower edge. Hmmmm ...
    1 point
  49. Thank you guys. Not much tonight, just the halves and firewall.
    1 point
  50. Marcel111

    1/32 Su-30SM

    I just saw this today, could be of real interest to you: https://www.instagram.com/tv/CKYETJCB1PU/?igshid=1ddak1yfacix5 Cheers, Marcel
    1 point
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