Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/20/2021 in all areas

  1. Hi guys, as promised, here's the X-15A2 list of tweaks. Finalizing it took more time than foreseen because of conflicting information linked to the differences between the three airframes and the constant evolution of the appearance of the X-15A2. The kit is quite nice but still asks for a ton of work to get a very nice replica. As usual, feel free to correct, comment or ask. I'm quite happy this one is ended as the lack of final evaluation and the conflicting information prevented me from working on the kit for years..! There are many booby traps. For insta
    10 points
  2. Returning to the wooden flaps... first, the recessed panel lines were filled. I used black CA so that I could still use the lines as a guide for placing the decals. Only two colors this time, white and off-white. I am going to use another wood decal pattern that has more grain detail. I like this a little better than the initial try and much better than the decals that Eagle Editions supplies.
    9 points
  3. Dandiego

    Delta Dart

    Ok, lets start with something small. The underwing fuel tanks have a good shape and recessed panel lines, but the plastic is very thin, hard to glue. I could use a central keel again but on something that is supposed to be round the keel will distort into an oval. So .....I have printed out a round core that will support the outer skin. First step, measure the interior diameter of the tank. 18.87 mm. This precise measurement allows the printer do produce the exact size needed. It is one of the advantages of using a 3d printer, 18.87mm needed, 18.87 mm produced. I have a
    8 points
  4. Finn

    Shiny Phantoms

    Especially when they don't have paint on them: Jari
    7 points
  5. D.B. Andrus

    Sneak Preview

    Pre-production example of Revell Me 262: More coming soon!
    7 points
  6. OK - trunking still drying - emulsion takes a lot longer than Tamiya Acrylics! In the mean-time... The 3D-printed turbine blades - painted gloss black, then Alclad, then black-wash - will look great at the end of the trunking! Underside - with a few surface details removed and the holes for the stores pylons of the IDS kits plugged with stretched strue and sanded flush. Next step is to mark out positions for the missile fins... I've made the decision to use the main cockpit tubs as supplied by Aires - there are some di
    7 points
  7. OK. After mulling it over, and second guessing myself etc. I think I'm set. I say second guessing--was wondering if my hook would actually work. In my mind, yes. But I set out to check it. Grabbed a piece of scrap lumber and drilled a hole to accept the tailhook and set it in place. Then started adding parts--just a close approximation mind you. I don't want to cut every piece of the sprues to tape them on etc. Surprisingly sturdy (hook is tacked in place w/ superglue--it'll get a TON of JB Weld when the time comes). I'll still have to watch my weight, which means n
    7 points
  8. Dandiego

    Delta Dart

    One tank primed, the other in process. Although my 3d printed core is very useful it did not help out on the ends of the tanks. So I filled the end of each tank with Bondo. When it had cured I sanded each half flat and then super glued it together. The pylons came from an F-16 and were cut down to the correct shape and size. As with almost any Vac subtle shape differences crop up between the different halves of almost anything. Case in point, the fuel tanks, Although they look identical they are not and this leads to extra work to get them right.
    7 points
  9. Thank you my friends! Some update on the engines nacelles. With all the putty and sanding the surface details has gone... so its time to rescribe the panel lines and rivets: tools and references for this task. Here the result of the task... some details in the engine covers has been already restored too using little bit of plasticard. A thin layer of neutral grey has been sprayed to show the uniformity of the area. CIAO! Piero
    6 points
  10. MikeA

    1/12 MFH Ferrari GTO 250

    Well it's been a long time....... Essentially all of my modelling gear was in storage moving from Australia back to NZ in December 2019, then whilst we were in temporary accommodation looking for work and a place to live in NZ. Then of course Covid interfered, which dragged out the process of house hunting for another three months. And after finally getting settled in August 2020, I managed to fracture a heel bone. This meant unpacking stuff and organising the new digs became a tedious affair to say the least. Finally, around Christmas I was able to gingerly place the offended heel on the floo
    6 points
  11. Here we give all photos that we found - ebay ....45 page of inspiraton https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=80971&start=660
    6 points
  12. Hi all, All of the photo-etch rigging anchors (pre-rigged) have been fitted to the upper and lower wings. Now comes the tricky part - fitting the upper wing onto its struts through the rigging anchors, Mike
    5 points
  13. Managed to complete the pit, used the AMS seat, everything else is from the kit. Now, pits have always been a battle for me, this will most likely be a canopy closed build because i think the Zip looks its best closed up. Don
    5 points
  14. Hi Derek, thanks for the link and suggestion. After a long furlough my wife has restricted my modeling budget somewhat, so I am restricted to what I can find on the internet for the time. I did find this on the Greek Mirages. The above photo also is a great help to verify the pattern on the upper surface. Hi Alain Thanks very much for the photos of the bare metal tanks. Fortunately you stopped me in time just before I painted the tank in light grey. I an happy with my mix. It is close to 36375 but with a little less blue. For the Bl
    5 points
  15. LSP_K2

    Make the others jealous

    Yet another book arrived today, a marvelous companion to the P-51 & P-47 books from the same series.
    5 points
  16. I completed this year's first build last night, Hasegawa's very nice FW 190 A-6 kit. I built the kit as a JG1 aircraft, mostly because I really liked the yellow and black checkerboard pattern on the cowling and the partial stylized eagle on both sides of the forward fuselage. As JG1 generally flew out of airbases with asphalt or concrete hardstands and runways; and because the service life of aircraft were almost always pretty short from late 43 onwards, I kept weathering to a minimum - with the noticeable exception of the drop tank. I only used three AM items on the build. An
    4 points
  17. My build, completed January 2021
    4 points
  18. Well, it's been a while since any update or activity. No excuse, been lazy. Did manage to get some work done, painted the engine parts i'll be using, total of three that will be seen. Everything else is to locate engine or will be spare binned. I've seen J79 engines in F-4s, F-104s and pictures to see how they tend to look green inside the tailpipe. Color and tone is varied, dark green/light green/yellow green....i usually paint these FS34092 Euro1 dark green. This time around i first applied Tamiya XF-55 Deck Tan, then light coat of XF-71 Cockpit Green. Applied gloss coat, then wash of XF-51
    4 points
  19. so it begins, normally id follow the instructions and build the tub first, however i always gettowards the end and rush to get it finished and dont do the best job of the stores as o could so thats where ive started not much to see yet now ive seen alot of tonka photos and one thing i keep seeing is different colour tanks, quite often barley grey but there was 1 at coningsby in camo still, i have a photo of it on a differnt tornado from 41, but to add a little contrast i thought id do one of these
    4 points
  20. Greetings,... done the FW 190 . Marked up as Priller's A8 around D-Day . Lifecolour paints were ok , but very fragile , Peddinghaus decals again ok but frankly could have made my own of similar quality . Some slight discrepancies as to variant as mentioned above, but hey looks ok to me . As per the wartime pics she's quite dirty and beaten up , I reckon they were knocking out a lot of sorties a day by June 44. Also as I have recently received a Trumpeter 109, with earlier Priller markings , I'm going to keep on with the Lufty LSP theme and do this one in the same GB as well if t
    4 points
  21. Finally, some shots of the pilot figure which turned out pretty good. It is one of the rare figures I do that I am completely satisfied with. The face and hands were painted using artist oils and the uniform was first airbrushed with acrylic colors and the highlights and shadows were added using the same colors, lightened or darkened as appropriate, using a "wet pallet" hand brushing technique. Ernest Same angle/distance with softer lighting. Extreme macro showing some of t
    4 points
  22. blackbetty

    Malvinas Pucará

    with some more detail (and a fingerprint - sigh)
    4 points
  23. Sounds awful Dave. I don't like fumes of any kind while I'm building so I clamped one of these a couple of feet away. I don't think I have any allergies re modeling but this thing also helps eliminate other fumes , like the ones eminating from me Good luck
    4 points
  24. Also out of left field, the IBG PZL P.11c is very nice, but probably somewhat low on popularity.
    4 points
  25. @chuck540z3 Stunning work Chuck!! I'm not too much of a jet fan, but the Lawn Dart has always fascinated me! Love what you're doing to it, always a great fan of your work and your methodology!! @Anthony in NZ You and I might have a lot of home time to do some modelling soon unfortunately, I know a lot of people, and I, who feel the same regarding the complacency here. Our "pandemic manager" at work is starting to make noises again.... But either way, please keep posting as well, your work is just absolutely stellar as well!!
    4 points
  26. Front office starting to come together. Just dry fit for now. Added the kit cockpit placard decals and a few extras from an Airscale set to match reference photos. As usual for Tamiya this is all a super-tight-tolerance click fit, so you have to be super careful that nothing you add from scratch in any way interferes, because there's no wiggle room at all. So far it seems to fit both sides, but I still need to check that the whole fuselage closes around it. That test also requires the radiator ducting assembly, which I finished and which also fits
    4 points
  27. We haven't done KOTY in years. We decided as staff that these are a huge amount of work to compile with little participation so we abandoned the concept around 2015.
    4 points
  28. Hye! After more or less 70 years exposed well or bad conditions of storage... Of course, I am speaking about the "onions"...not about Radub... Amities Fab
    4 points
  29. Warning label on my brand of super glue: "Sealing of mouth and nostrils simultaneously with CA can cause severe reaction. Immediately flush with de-bonder and seek psychological help."
    4 points
  30. A short pause after I've applied the fuel stencil decals. I think I can start on the mottle work soon.
    4 points
  31. Hello, with the new year is time to start a new project, a MiG-29A (9-12) Fulcrum. At the beginning I was thinking to do a Czech Fulcrum, but now I've decided for an ex-Czech Fulcrum sold to the Polish Air Force. In the '90 the original Czech's camouflage was retained, and because my Fulcrum will be one of the jets during the exercise "Eagle's Talon" in the 1997 a white band was applied at the time around the rear part of the fuselage. Starting set includes the Trumpeter kit of course and some good books as references. Some aftermark
    3 points
  32. Approximately 4 years ago I bought this kit. Upon receiving it I threw this together to see how it looked. I noted in the thread leading to this GB, a Sopwith Camel which had a similar history. As a result I am adding this model to the Air Superiority GB. On a whim I dub this out of the very bottom of a large stack of models and went to work. I had the best time ever! What a great kit! This build with be, with the exception of decals, OOB. This is where I left it last night. I set my alarm
    3 points
  33. So i have person over at the Art Station web site and they do some pretty cool drawings and he had one of a B29 Tie Fighter and thought it would be cool to do this in 3D. So here is the 3D work and now I am of to the printers!, I do have the engines for a B24 kit i hope to use.
    3 points
  34. dutik

    Make the others jealous

    Sold some stuff at Ebay and re-ivested the money into this one: Will also add A2Zees update set, mostly for more decal options (striped or the red one ) Also into a low-end AAA solution: Nice little kit. Hard to get here at a reasonable price nowadays. Regards - dutik
    3 points
  35. Now some mid-distance and close up shots. Ernest
    3 points
  36. I don't know if yuo're aware f these seat details for MB 10 seats - just released by Kit world , Kit Link Seat Decals I've got a couple of sets tucked away for my GR4 and one of the Hawk T2s - unfortunately there are no placement instructions, but they should be fairly easy to use
    3 points
  37. since we are in a jokes thread: my other hobby besides cars....
    3 points
  38. 1/32 HS780 Andover......it's gotta be!
    3 points
  39. Cheetah11

    1/32 Tornado F3 stencils

    It depends on the scheme you want to do. I chose an F3 during the gulf war as many stencils and walkways were not present. Many of the Revel RAF version have similar stencils and these were also used. RAF low vis roundels cut, masked and airbrushed. The biggest problem were the white NO STEP signs which I eventually cut with the Silhouette cutter. An easier one is to use Eduard photo etch NO STEP stencils. Not easy but not impossible to do a F3. Hope this helps
    3 points
  40. 3 points
  41. I usually need to use Flonase and eye drops after a long session with a resin kit and supper glue. Even with a fan pulling air across the bench. Now I have started tacking parts together with small amounts of CA glue and then using epoxy.
    3 points
  42. I’d have to vote for kits still in the box, haven’t built anything made in the last 5 years at least
    3 points
  43. So, are we not allowed to talk about it in a thread? I’m not asking for a poll or voting. Just people’s thoughts for discussion.
    3 points
  44. Thank you, gentlemen - I appreciate the feedback. The time spent on drawing up the cradle was worth it - for a MAG58! Unfortunately, there’s no commonality between the the cradle for light/medium machine guns & the 50 calibre. As can be seen above, the cradle for the .50 is pretty beefy! Hopefully I’ll have time to finish it this week.
    3 points
  45. Thanks guys! Taking some baby steps toward the next painting phase, which will be the Light Blue RLM 76 mottle over the greens. I've decided to use Mr Hobby Aqueous RLM 76 mixed with white for this shade since it sprays very well. Here are a few of the smaller components with the light blue...
    3 points
  46. blackbetty

    Malvinas Pucará

    dryfitted. the inlet is so small you cant see inside, so its just blacked out
    3 points
  47. blackbetty

    Malvinas Pucará

    so i worked a little on the forward part of the engines and the spinners. using a maverick missle head i scratched the fins
    3 points
  48. mpk

    Make the others jealous

    Recent addition.
    3 points
  49. Dragon

    Hasegawa F-86 Sabre

    Snowbird3a - thanks for explanation on the different wing types. To keep this easy on me, I'm going to keep the cord as is and make a 6-3 hard wing. I've spent numerous nights Googling Sabres, and I've found a couple of great sites with colored photos of Sabres during the Korean War. I'm starting to enjoy the research associated with the builds. I've made some good progress on the build. I started with getting the cockpit sidewalls installed. After scrapping away the kit's sidewalls, I glued in the resin sidewalls: After getting the sidewalls in, I next wor
    3 points
×
×
  • Create New...