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Hello guys, One of my last pre-Covid builds, here is my Mig-21 MF LanceR C ( air-to-air) variant of Romanian AF. I used the beautiful conversion kit from Icaerodesign and a Master pitot. Hataka Orange Line paint set for RoAF came to rescue for camo painting (lovely stuff), oils, pigments, washes from all over the place. Trumpeter's kit is nice enough to keep you going, details are there....but if I am honest I should've replace the wheels with some resin parts as well as the seat. Overall, I'm pleased with the result. Cheers.

Hello, this morning I've just got this new kit from my favorite local hobby shop. First thing, payed € 129. Ok, it's almost the triple of the price of a Tornado kit from Revell in the same scale... but we'll see that the contents and the details are almost the same ratio in favor of the Italeri's kit. I'll going to compare the new Italeri kit with the old one from Revell also because I've finished to build a Revell's Tornado in the recent time. Ok, let see some pics: the box is not too big, same size of the F-104 or the F-35 box... almost half size of the old Revell's Tornado kit. Decal sheet is well printed, hi-gloss finish and no color mismatch. We have a good size PE sheet with the access ladder and many details for the cockpit, airframe and weapon loads as the BOZ chaff&flare pods. We have a color book for painting and decals and another one for construction guide. What I really like of the construction guide book is that we have clear step-by-step guide when we have to choose between two or more options: each option is showed on separate pages, so we have less probability to use the wrong parts. For example here we have the choice between the engines with the extracted reverse thrust or with the retracted reverse thrust. Very clear, don't you? We have also a couple of nice drawings that shows us the final configurations we can have... Another nice first for me is that we have some drawings in scale, like this two for the cockpit IP, external pylons and weapons... next will be some pics of the plastic sprues... don't move!

ok last pics for today, external loads. We have two big Hindenburg fuel tanks, with nice raised welding lines and recessed access panels. Correct bulged pylons for UK variant too. ECM Sky Shadow and chaff&flare BOZ pods. Just let me know if you need specific pics of the kit's parts. I'm thinking of build this kit as a desert camouflage Saudi's GR.1... all the parts needed are in the box and I have a couple of old-but-still-nice SuperScale decal sheet for this birds. CIAO! Piero

I like this kind of solution for the fin air intakes... no need of filler and sanding, so the lip will not ruined. We have weighted plastic wheels... ... and soft rubber wheels too. Here we have also soft rubber wing-gloves seals. Main undercarriage legs has nice printed hydraulic lines... also the retraction legs arm are well detailed compared to the almost plain and slim parts in the Revell's kit. Here we have different type of RWR antennas to be placed on the top of the fin... again, IDS/GR.1/GR.4 variant of UK, Italy and German are all possible. A pics of the IP of the front and rear seats. We have at least 4 different type of rear instrument panels of the early, late GR.4... and again IDS/GR.1 variant. Also for the MK.10 ejection seat we have early and late head-rest cushion. Clear parts of the canopy and windshield are well printed with no molding lines. Rivets are represented. ...

ok, now some pics of the plastic sprue. Here we have the wing. As you can see all the moving surfaces are separate so we can have a completely "open&down" wing as during take-off, landing or parking. Panel lines are not fine but also not too deep. With many layers of primer, colors, gloss and matt cote... this could be a benefit. Here the top of the main jet intakes... the same part of the Revell's kit as almost no detail or panel lines. Here you can see the detail parts that go inside the canopy.. not bad. Here the radome with the correct static discharger stripes. The front fuselage section: note the separate underside part. In general, all the aiframe is splitted in a way that we could have more Tornado varints in the future... also an ADV!!! As showed by the separated wing-gloves... with also the option of kruger or not-kruger devices. Here you can see that we have the engine's air intake trunks. The undersurface are full of details. Note the arrestor hook vane... an important detail completely missed in the Revell's kit. The top surface has good panel lines and details too... note the details of airbrake vanes. We have the central-rear right side of the airframe with the APU exhaust... another evident detail missed in the Revell's kit. Note also the details on the wheel bays. Here we have the different gun's panels... we'll have and IDS/GR.1 for sure in the near future. Another important detail well represented is this air exit on the left side... The Big Fin... also here we can see details that shows future IDS/GR.1 variants. We have a separate mobile rudder. The extended flaps and ailerons... we like to have this kind of options already in the box, right? ...

I airbrushed some markings this morning using masks cut with a Silhouette Cameo craft cutter. I also sprayed a white base coat for the yellow/red fuselage band. After taking these photos I realized I hadn't taken any photos of the fuselage mottling. What you see here is actually my second attempt - I wasn't happy with the first application so I tried it again (after overspraying them with RLM 76) and am happier with the results.

Thanks Turbo! So, the weathering process continues. From the previous page, this picture shows a good example of how grubby the underside got on these birds. Between muddy fields, engine / cannon soot and the oil leaks that Merlins were known for, the bottom of these aircraft got dirty! Note also the patches of what looks to be red dope on the port horizontal stab. After airbrushing the basic exhaust staining as described in my previous post, I did a bit of oil wash and then tried out Flory Washes for the first time. Very nice stuff, I'm a big fan. Essentially nothing more than fine pigment, water and a surfactant. You slop it on heavy, let it dry and wipe it off with a damp paper towel until you have the effect you want. You can go lightly and end up with some moderate staining or wipe off most and you’ll get a nice panel line wash. I used Dark Dirt and Grime tones. Just a warning, for matt paint, they tend to adhere pretty strongly and may not come completely off no matter how much water you apply after they set up. Need to use caution here. Anyway, this is still a work in progress. I add some weathering effects, then tone them down until I feel that I got it just right. Mud spatters coming off the tail wheel were Testor's dark tan with a dab of brown added. I figured the drop tanks would have just been stacked in the dirt so I added some mud stains to their undersides. Also added a few patches of red dope to represent battle damage repairs (see previous posts for more info on this). That's it for now, thanks for looking!

Hi Marcel This kit has been a bit of a strange journey. After this build I feel like Insp Clouseau in the Pink Panther: " With me surprises are rarely unexpected" The fixes are not difficult. It is the finding and figuring how to fix it that takes time. Also once things are cut there is no going back. Everyone is wondering about the windscreen. Yes Jens, I was also wondering about cutting 6mm off the windscreen and the resulting decrease in height but I am pleased with the result.I spend a bit more time last night and this is the result. The windscreen is not tall enough by about 2mm but I realized early on in the build the fixes were not going to be perfect but at least a better compromise. Cut as shown and notches filed. (Be very careful !, clear plastic is generally more brittle so cut carefully and really take time if this fix is attempted.) The original windscreen does not fit well as it is a bit narrow. ( I think on the original kit the issue is the same). I first tested a piece of clear sprue for ten seconds in hot water and then did the same on the windscreen. Much better fit. Measured on the model and cut a little further way. Final finishing sanding it back a little. Still needs a small amount of sanding back. Still a bit of work but at least it is doable with the kit canopy. Starting work next week after 7 months of furlow, so modeling time will be more limited. This build will slow down a bit but I think it is worthwhile taking time for a good result. Cheers Nick

Ok, so razor has it's legs now - glued the wing, added oil leaks, dust, wire to ailerons and elevator, put engine and can say that the model is ready more photos will be soon

Some sneak previews and news about what I have been up to over the past few months. A few months ago I took the plunge and invested in 3D software and 3D printers.......and upto that point I had no experience in 3D drawing personally or to do the printing. Previously I always had to rely on others to do the drawing and Shapeways or similar to do the printing. Well I jumped in at the deep end and I have developed some parts and printed them myself (not without a lot of torture, late nights, frustration and lots of wasted resin) BUT that is what it takes to self teach yourself new skills and fathom things out. However I certainly see this as the way forward and although some of my planned products have and will be delayed I am hoping that I will now create better products in the long run. Some of the parts shown are drawn by others, in particular the P-51B canopy section (destined for the 1/32 scale Trumpeter kit) this was drawn by Tim Perry. The first picture shows the first trial of taking the master and taking it through the process of getting it cast in clear, as you can see it is not perfectly clear, but it proved the point that the process could work. Now after lots of amendments and tweaks over the past few months, I now have two new masters shown in the second picture. The reason that there is two is that one is slightly larger to have an open cockpit option and the other a closed option. This is the ONLY practical way I could see to make this work on the kit with the SCALE restrictions we constantly face. So over the next little while I will develop this into a new set.

thanks guys been a bit busy on the Fury - much of what I started to do has been binned and remade, so while you have seen this, you haven't seen the accurate version ..first I remade the tubular framework with squared joints which was a way Hawker managed to joint tubes in this way.. here also some of the brackets are being added (with dummy ali tubes) that support the control stick / rudder pedal assembly.. ..checking the alignment again by putting both side frames together..this is crucial for everything to be true & square.. ..also made up the fuel tank from a pen lid covered in litho sheet.. ..getting the right positioning of the mounting brackets.. ..then the seat - this was remade from drawings using sheet litho... ..then the addition of some detail parts - PPD turned around the PE in 5 days (for a premium ), they are amazing, but they did it in brass not nickel silver by mistake so while they re-do it I can use the brass bits on things that will be painted.. ..the height adjustment lever is a complex contraption.. ..and the entire kit of parts for the seat.. and dry fitted ready for painting.. ..all the parts were primed and painted with alclad and MRP.. ..and the whole lot dry fitted.. ..so, as you were, but at least now I know it's right ..probably do the rudder bar next.. TTFN Peter

I'm home, which is where I want to be. If I want to go outside I walk into my back yard. Plenty of fresh air there. My present projects are 1) getting rid of a lot of my stash via eBay and an occasional trip to the dump. 2) now that my book is in publication I am gathering my notes for my next one. My current book is called The Streamlined Locomotive by me, Stephen L. Auslender. Page Publishing Co. ISBN 978-1-64462-100-4. You buy a copy at a book store (Barnes & Nobel for example or Amazon on line) by going up to a counter and ordering one. ($14.95). Or I'll trade a copy for a 1/32 aeroplane kit (any condition, badly built, partial, whatever). I am not sure you will like it if you are in any way a serious minded person. It is a humorously surrealistic novel (what ever that means) and has very little to do with locomotives or airplanes. 3) trying to organize my immense pile of models and stuff. After the house was repaired following the last house fire 6 years ago every surviving thing was piled in the garage and basement in unmarked boxes. 4) trying to get back to making sculpture and models. I miss not being able to go to model shows (plastic models and model trains) in this area which have closed because of the current plague. For entertainment I view my favorite old TV shows from the 1950s on YouTube (Have Gun will Travel, Sherlock Holmes, Nero Wolfe, Burns and Allen). My wife is happily arranging and working in her new sewing room. Her new sewing machine should be delivered this month. Keep on Trucking, Stephen

What a coincidence, I live in the same place running around looking for the exit!!

I love it. This leads to John1 Enterprises next exciting product announcement - a 1:1 scale plastic water bottle. Identical to those seen scattered all over AFV's in Iraq and Afghanistan. A must have for any serious AFV enthusiasts display shelf. Comes in two exciting options - Full ($30 plus S&H) and Empty ($25 & S&H). If you want the empty bottle weathered and wrinkled (using a variety of proprietary methods), add $20. Operators are standing by to take your orders!

I'm not sure what you mean, there's some cleanup and micro fitting but other than that I think it looks OK? I guess I will be the wiser when I begin to glue the parts together... Started on rivetting the wings to add some more texture to the surfaces... Kent

Thanks Norbert I have already done the preliminary cockpit work with the shortened fuselage. A pity the aftermarket cockpits will not fit now. In cockpit photos there are a large number of differences in the sidewalls as well. I will see next week how to solve that when I can start detailing the cockpit. Cheers Nick

Hi all, The fuselage for the Nieuport 28C1 is ready to be closed up. I did say this was to be an out-of-the box build, which it is. Well, apart from: Peach basket resin seat from 'Aviatic'. Floor frame and side frames cross bracing wires - 0.4 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tube (blackened) and 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament. Rudder and elevator control wires - 0.4 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tube (blackened) and 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament. 0.3 mm and 0.4 mm diameter lead wire ('PlusModel' - oil pulse meter pipe and starter switch wire. 0.4 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tube - control rod from mixture control quadrant. Two forward cockpit frames (under main fuel tank) and shoulder height slotted panels - from photo-etch 'PART' N28 set. Tachometer decal - 'Airscale' WW1 instrument set. Shoulder harness and lap straps - from 'Wingnut Wings' Sopwith Snipe photo-etch set. The supplied instrument panel was modified to represent the actual panel. Most kit versions are modelled on the panel in the NASM reconstructed aircraft, which had additional instruments fitted for test flights. The aircraft had Tulip wood diagonal crossed strips, as opposed to the traditional Nieuport metal cladding. This was replicated by scribing the internal surface of the fuselage halves. Paints used were 'Tamiya' acrylics, 'Mr. Colour' enamels and 'Alclad' lacquers. Finishes used were 'AK Interactive' engine oil wash, 'Flory Models' Grime clay wash and 'Alclad' Light Sheen lacquer. Now to close it up inside the fuselage, never to be seen again, Mike

I've spent a bunch more time on the gun vents to get a smooth transition from the etch part to the surrounding area. I'm finally pleased with the result: This little intake is from the Zacto set for the Revell kit, which I bought a long time ago. This is how that plating around the dispensers looks like right now. Airbrake is about done... yes, it looks that rudimentary in reality also: Cheers, Marcel

Some sneak previews and news about what I have been up to over the past few months. A few months ago I took the plunge and invested in 3D software and 3D printers.......and upto that point I had no experience in 3D drawing personally or to do the printing. Previously I always had to rely on others to do the drawing and Shapeways or similar to do the printing. Well I jumped in at the deep end and I have developed some parts and printed them myself (not without a lot of torture, late nights, frustration and lots of wasted resin) BUT that is what it takes to self teach yourself new skills and fathom things out. Next up is an engine set that I am working on for the Hobby Boss 1/32 A-26 Invader. A friend of mine developed the front cowling but over time I have modified that, the rest of the parts are drawn and developed by myself, the first picture shows the kit part and the new part, the rest are various pictures from various angles. All of this will take time but I hope to have this out fairly soon and have a few other ideas for the A-26.

Hi Jay! The "poster putty" method is fairly well known and I've been using it for years. Here are some tips: - New putty can have a bit too much tack, so getting it all off the model can be tricky. Just use more putty and press it to the residual bits to remove it. Conversely, older putty that has been used over and over can actually be better than new putty due to easier removal. - The diameter of the putty "rope" obviously influences how much of a fuzzy overspray look you want to achieve, but the angle you spray does as well. I like to spray slightly underneath the rope to get a sharper edge than from straight above. - Spray light colors first, followed by darker colors to improve coverage. - After the first color has been sprayed, arrange the rope slightly back from the edge so that the first color is exposed. That way you overlap the first color without leaving a gap. - Cover the first color with masking tape to avoid overspray from the subsequent colors. - When you have both all colors painted and putty has been removed, you will find areas that need repairs. Arrange small ropes and redo them, as well as to add more curved details. - With all putty removed, I freehand each color to fill in light coverage and overspray. So that's about it! Here are a few more examples of camo painting using this method. HTH, Chuck

Here in the center of the US, in our house w/the wife......pretty much exactly where we've been since March. Weird thing is, besides not going out to eat, and not getting to go to our favorite "dinner drinks and a show" movie theater, nothing has really changed much for us. I guess that's a sign of how introverted we are.

Thanks for posting. It looks really nice. Some nice schemes out of the box and Cartograph decals are always good. I’m mightily tempted and here’s to hoping we get other versions in the future. Just caved and ordered one. I do miss seeing these beasts down low in the valleys when I go back home. At least now I can zoom one around the house making jet noises.

I’m somewhere in England in a place called Lockdown. Been here before but still struggling to find my way out of it.

decals are ready.

Hi all, That's it - all hidden, Mike

Done and dusted or should I say cut and pasted Alain. Thanks to Romain for picking this and the tank discrepancy up. It looks much better and the hud is now correct relative to the canopy frame. Now that it is seen it cannot be made unseen unfortunately. The question now is how is the cockpit affected as the IP will move 6mm back as well. I will see over the weekend what needs to be done. It now looks like this. Cheers Nick

The interior of the fuselage is practically done. The hull is closed and glued.

Sea fury moves to italy. http://warbirdsnews.com/aircraft-restoration/sea-fury-moves-to-italy.html

https://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/tak05010.htm I have been waiting for this. they are making a Bismark Dora also. Not released yet. Paul C

This is a cool looking airplane, although it never made production or even a prototype was ever built, i fell in love because is something new and different , this is the first model produced by a new manufacturer, DAS WERK , and the wood texture decals were made exclusively for it by uschi van der rosten. When you compared to a P-51D, this was i really small airplane as you can see in the last picture. i call it the ancestor or the grandpa of the A-10 by the position of the pulse jet engines and the twin rudder Jorge

I,ve been excercising an activity which is usually known as: THIS IS WHY WOMEN LIVE LONGER THAN MEN, by climbing in trees to trim them for the upcoming winter season and using several kinds of chainsaw systems, while being up there checking my iphone from time to time to check on the "obvious" news to evolve.........yeah right, i shouldn't do these things simultaneously but fortunately i didn't harm myself......pfew........

I don't feel like I'm getting the hang of this weathering thing at all. I wish I had practiced on something smaller and less expensive. It's oils so anything can be removed and redone. What do you guys think of this? I tried to mostly dirty up the walkways and high traffic areas. I also think that a clear coat will help blend things a little more.

Kevin, PiG Models is the one making 1/1 shells. So far they have the Tiger 1 88mm., King Tiger 88mm, Russian 76mm ( t-34 ect.)and a 105mm howitzer round. I have the 88 & it is basic but verry nice. Andy's hobys carries them.

I only clicked the "like" button because there's no "holy crap" or "wow" buttons

I have a vision. It’s of a Tornado under very heavy braking. An adjustment to the nose gear to compress it down, let all the flaps,slats, and spoilers out, reverse buckets deployed. Dammit, I’m talking myself into one.

In the dungeon, as usual.

Just got in from the mornings grocery run, home depot, and staples. ham sandwich for lunch with 3 cats staring at my food. Outside it is 75' on NOV 6TH !!!!!!!! and some high profile morons still deny global warming. Where am I? an hour and a bit south of Boston, in Rhode Island, about a half mile from the sea. Regards, Pete. ( hoping for hobby bench time this afternoon)

I dunno if I am me. For all I know I am something else. Perhaps a potted plant or a kettle. With this in mind, I'll show people who are within my orbit. Yolanda. A student. This shot taken 30 minutes ago at her gig. I am so proud. She's coming for a lesson on Tuesday. I have a surprise for her. I am passing on a lovely Turkish cymbal. She needs it and I want her to own it. Plus I still have too much equipment. I teach her drum set and percussion. Mainly Brasilian and Afro Cuban on various instruments ftrom drum set to cuica. This is Luna. Luna and I have been close for some time. Luna has only been to visit me at certain time when I was home and very sick. One day Luna knocked. I was too sick and didn't want to answer the door. Luna got impatient and kept knocking. Luna stopped coming over when I was no longer that sick. This is the Machine!!!! If I ever make him laugh, it often gets out of control. As can be seen. The Machine began with me when he was 3. He is now 12. This is his reaction to the very silly word, paradiddle. Perhaps it was the way I pronounced it? Here is a hilarious 5 year old. She loves to wear my hats. This is me on the left at a drum festival with the owner of the shop I taught for as senior teacher teaching drums and ethnic percussion. The shop did not survive covid. We are at a drum festival. I think I gave or wad supposed to give a master class. I can't remember. This is Jeff. Jeff is a student and wonderful drummer. You can hear him on many TV shows such as Vampire diaries and many others. Jeff really wanted to interview me for his drumming podcast. Another student, Luke. Another student who has gone on to acchieve wonderful success playing with The Preachers. The Preachers. My brother at one of his many worldwide shows. Myself in the past before I broke my back. My niece. My nephew winning a film making award. 91 year old father. Myself on stage playing congas with a band while on a 2 day release from hospital. I have no memory of it. The device carrying my medicine to my heart through my chest cannot be seen. It's behind me. I was crazy. I ended up having 389 doses of chemo. I thought it wss only 290. My doctor disabused me of this a few months ago. 42 lumbar punctures. I thought it was only 34. The following day I was back in hospital. I got out about 6 months later. The bass player is in my own band now. My own band. My 2nd drumming gig following my cancer. I can't afford to pay them to rehearse. We jam. My job here is to make the music work. I play an interesting enough funky groove and hold the time steady so they can be comfortable. It's my first time as leader. The Band Without A Name.

As Jennings mentioned, I pick and choose the kits. I own something from all that have been mentioned so far; many WNW Kits. My wallet has become a big fan of ICM and Lukgraph. All the subjects between the world wars are now edging out other subjects. Paints... Gunze and Vallejo with some Tamiya spray for primers and car models.

Silver Wings+Lukgraph+ICM......they are all producing superb kits of my favourite aviation period. Coincidentally they are all European too!

Thanks Lothar. At the moment the armour is helping my self confidence. Over the past few years I have done loads of modelling for very little return. It's really quite pathetic.

the first details of the new project Lemkits at 1:32 in front of you. And soon the "beast" will come out of the shadows).

Yeah, I don't really get it either too be honest. Modeling a lump of steel. It seems the equivalent of a car modeller doing a 1:1 scale model of a Corvette rim. Yes I do build AFV's too so it's not an airplane bias opinion. Ron

I dug out some of the other kits I g9t following my large sale of musical equipment. In the end I sold sets of congas and bongos drum sets and cymbals. Who on earth really needs 6 congas and 3 sets 9f bongos??? (This from the guy who owned until recently, 83 collectable snare drums!!!l) That all makes these purchases sound coherent and sane. Here is all the AM I bought for the Mil.

My word, that is gorgeous! The painting is superb, in fact the effects are perfect! I hope I can get my Phantom paintjob even a 1/4 as good as yours and I would be happy! Seeing work like this really helps me push my own boundaries and comfort zones...you have given me some great ideas! Keep it up, we gotta see this make the finish line now!

Thanks Rainer, if that drywall doesn't require all of my spare time during the weekend, I'll give it a try! Yesterday, it was time for some additional masking. Modex on the front landing gear door (forgot to take a pic of the finished part). Ejection seat triangles, a small stencil and the background for the rank below the canopy frame. I should have done that earlier but somehow forgot it. Finished. Just needs to be blended in with some slight weathering and matt varnish once the decals have been applied. I have to admit I am rather happy with the surface texture. The contrast is not too high, so it doesn't look splotchy from a distance yet looks rather complex when looking at it from a short distance. Time for some gloss varnish (GX-112) on the outer wing sections. The heavisly weathered national insignia was masked to leave it matt. Once the stencil decals (from CAM) have been applied, the orange parts will be sealed with yet another coat of gloss varnish which will then be sanded with high grit sandpaper and then be polished to get rid of the orange peel.

Thanks for the heads up Romain This seems to be the most viable cut but it changes the geometry of the cockpit and IP position. I will still decide if it is worth it. Thankfully the rest of the fuselage seems to be in proportion. I had a look at the 1/48 kits I have and Esci and Heller got it right all those years ago, so no excuse. Nick

A little more fixing to do before painting. As I said earlier I want all the fixes out of the way before painting and assembly. I fixed the length of the drop tank tanks to the info Romain provided. I will post it tomorrow after the filler has dried. The gun bays are also designed to be open and the doors will not fit flush with the bays installed. I simply removed them to get the doors flush and added a piece of tubing to later fit the gun barrel. The engine mount and engine are secured with super thin location pegs. I was afraid with my clumsiness I will battle to get them to fit. I replaced them with a piece of brass rod through the engine and 3mm plastic card on the fuselage sides. Now for the biggest fix. The resin AB nozzle is undersized. I think KH realized this and instead of printing a new master, they added a ring to the nozzle to get it flush with the fuselage. This leads to a step which is not present on the real aircraft. Because of the nature of the resin nozzle, it will be almost impossible to enlarge it. There are a few options. 1. Best one to get the Resikit nozzle if the fit is better. 2. Ignore the problem. 3. Size the fuselage to fit the nozzle. Option 3 is the only viable one for me, so here goes. The step if no adjustment is made. Bottom cut by sanding a wedge out of both sides Two small cuts on the side of the fuselage completed the cutting. And the corrected nozzle. Now almost ready for a normal build and painting Cheers Nick

Some progress.. Painting started. RAF Dark Earth applied.

Alain sent me a photo of the Matra Super 530D showing the nozzle. Thanks Alain I used the mini drill to turn a nozzle. And fitted to the missile I also fitted the speedbrakes. On the Mir III from Italeri I fitted them flush and upon applying Tamiya thin cement they sank to slightly below the surface. This time I put .25mm plastic card shims in to prevent the sagging, The rest of the wing is finished and strips of plastic card were used to fill the spaces underneath the slats. The slats ended a little proud of the wing which then had to be sanded down. Happy modeling Nick