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Haha had a brain wave - after all these years modelling and never enjoying putting the decals on the fuselage almost vertical surface - especially on larger models it only just dawned on me yesterday to stick one wing in a box of packing chips - perfect solution, more control of positioning and pooling of set and sol fluid - and in the case of panels that are loose but need the decals on them - perfect stability! Feeling very intelligent at the moment. Also I am really happy with my AIMS oleo leg/wheel markings - the silver detail is fantastic and shows up well. Two models can be made from one set and the set is also available in 1/24. Thanks

this was my side project during the summer I don't have any special interest in Bf 108 but the Eduard boxart caught my attention and I really liked the fact that it was released with all AM I have used only reference pics available on web Painted with MR Paint, weathered with different AMMO stuff thanks for looking jan

wings fold additional set http://infinitymodels.cz/2020/09/17/sb2c-4-helldiver-1-32/

Thanks! Today update. I will exchange the exhausts for Quickboost.

Thanks Sandor - finished the matt coat on the top after you left - final assembly stage coming up!

whatever. If I shot down a helicopter I’m not even sure I’d put a kill marking on my jet- it’s just too easy.. and not very sporting. Cheers P

Thanks! Here is some fiddling I did last night after I snipped all the landing gear parts from their sprue trees in order to get ready for paint. The MLG are slotted to perfectly fit up inside the front section of the wheel well, using that bulkhead as re-enforcement to secure the gear. The subsequent folding braces for each MLG were then able to be just held in place by press fit alone. I then hung one of the previously completed engines on just for fun to see what things will eventually look like: The clever way ZM put this all together allows things to all be press-fit prior to actual glue assembly. Its all very lovely............ Back on the twin tonight. Cheers all!

Hi to all we pick up where I left off. correction of DB 605 / A engine calenders: I make a thin strip from the sheet of metal to finish the internal moldings and then fix them correction of the external fins of the cowlings: those of the kit appear slightly undersized creation of the closing rails for the cowlings stops: The idea is to be able to insert the cowling on two self-made tracks (as in the real model) so that it can be held without gluing it and to be able to optionally open or not the cowling and show the DB 605 / A in all its positions or keep the perfect closure and show intact its camouflage. Daimler Benz DB 605 /A preview note: the cables and the various connections are sent back to the insertion of the engine inside the fuselage. detail of the compressor fan: 1- I open the compartment to rebuild the fan seat with the help of a low speed electric cutter: 2- I remove the excess parts, sanding with the cutter with a round head file and finally I brush up with Mr. Surfacer 1000 liquid putty 3- I apply the micro-blades obtained from a thin flap of sheet metal inserting them delicately and individually close to the very small self-made pin and obtained from a residue of resin wrapped on the tip of the cutter scratch building of other metal parts: MWP (Metal Work Panels technique) : cloning panels : modification and detail of the oil tank : wanting to keep the hatch open, I had to build both the internal and external part of the tank including the hatch and the power inlet. Also in this case, the connecting cables are returned with the motor switched on dents in the auxiliary tank : it seems trivial and perhaps stupid but I can assure you that the realistic effect that is reproduced is absolutely interesting! after having glued the two shells I made small and light depressions with the electric cutter at low speed so as to simulate the classic dents suffered by the tank often stacked against each other on the ground in the fast succession of missions after having adequately sanded the interested parts, I reviewed and standardized all the work with a couple of passes of Mr. Surfacer 1200 DB 605 motor insertion and cowlings closing test with the changes made: result OK! A- "open" B-"closed" final gallery: thanks for your attention. George for more info & pics : http://www.adventurephotomodels.com

It is unfair to look at the earliest ZM kits and use them as the yardstick for their latest models. In fact, if one was to say “I would not buy any potential 1/32 Tamiya Bf 109 because I looked at their 1/32 Tomcat and I was not impressed” they would only manage to come across as anything other than “clever” or “informed”. Even Hasegawa’s first 1/32 models cannot be compared to their latest product. The ZM models have improved in massive leaps and bounds over the years. I can also tell you that over the years they changed their designers and mould manufacturers a few times, in a continuous search for a better product. There is a steady and noticeable upward trend in the quality of ZM models. So, to summarise, there is no comparison between the Ta 152 and their latest models. I can promise you that the ZM Bf 109 shares nothing (research team, design team, tooling workshop) with their Ta 152. Radu

In the end I decided to completely sand off the two horizontal "guide" lines and then cut a new "bed" for the oil tank from 10 thou plastic card. I added a few Meng nuts of suitable size, and others to the fuel filler and drain, then glued all in place. I had to thin the inside of the engine panel to accommodate the fuel filler nut, but all good finally. A small enhancement but worth it nonetheless.

It's now presented on their website as being in development: infinitymodels.cz - DH-100 Vampire Mk 3 – 1/32 With different box-art to that presented earlier (as that one is for MK 5, I think): With few more pictures there. And stating they expect to release it this year, together with the MK 5 version. Juraj

Got the second half of the tank de-molded. Total length of the tank will be about 52 cm. It looks huge, but the 150 gallon tank is 48 cm long, so this one is not much longer, but bigger around and less pointy. Weight-wise we are at 243 grams already. Sorry for the dark photo - the dining room is lit for romantic dinners, not airplane parts.

I decided to go ahead and give it a try. I was thinking of a 19 year old PFC with a spray can while I was doing it. It will of course be toned down with weathering.

Hi everyone, nice to be able to sit a little after three weeks in bed. Knee doing well after the surgery but not rushing back to AIMS with all its standing and bending to cast so just enjoying trying to finish a model at the moment and in the last few days was able to get some painting done or should a say a lot of masking and a little painting? So Red 1 of JV 44 coming along. I have used Mr Paint colours without exception. The paint is semi gloss already - more so if you put it directly onto plastic but the red was put on top of the Mr Paint white primer and so it is more matt than the upper colours, anyway a little more gloss then on with the decals. Thanks, John

Last update.

I bought this kit quite a long time ago, I think it was one of the first LSP's I bought. I did so because it was 69 bucks, at the time I thought it was a bargain for a large scale Macchi 202. The I tried building it and found out why there weren't many builds of this kit around. What I remember from doing the interior is it required sanding down the inside of the fuselage a lot to make the resin fit. I got finished doing this, turned towards the wheel wells and that's where I stopped. Years past with this kit sitting in the shelf of doom. The pile of dust on it was quite impressive. It almost hit he bin a few times, the only reason it didn't was because I'd hate to have wasted 69 bucks. I picked it up last month and decided come hell or high water I would finish it. The wheel wells that proved difficult to fit were thrown in the bin, I then progressively glued together the bottom wing to fuselage, then gear doors were put into place followed by the upper wing sections. Those did not fit well and all of the wing to fuselage joint area has been sanded and shaved heavily then rescribed to get a decent fit. The resin oil cooler was too small to fit the hole in the resin lower cowling, itself being slightly under size. Some sanding of the plastic helped with fit here. Radiator was fine and the tail was average but some basic filling and sanding here fixed that. I did get stuck for a while with the canopy, windscreen and spinner. The spinner is too small for the back plate, this was just sanded to fit, which makes it slightly under size, but oh well. I had to take a lot of plastic off the fuselage to get the windscreen and canopy anywhere close to fitting. I decided for the colours, I liked the profile of one of the around 20 Croatian machines used on the Russian Front. The pictures of these machines are not the best, so I just guessed at what the markings might be, figuring German insignia was most likely with the Croat shield in place of the swastika to make things a little different (but this kind of thing was done with at least 1 POA machine). Markings came form the spares box along with the pilot.

Začal jsem tento Bf 110C-4 1/32 Revell kit Díly kabiny Eduard v barvě PE Bezpečnostní pásy HGW

Most of the remaining bits are now installed. The screw and captive nut scheme Tamiya cooked up to attach the main landing gear legs works better than it has any right to. Definitely impressed. On the flip side, the little covers that slide in to complete the wing leading edge over those screw heads (and the wing cannons) are overly wide and required a surprising amount of sanding to fit (note to future builders, test fit and get this adjusted before painting). I spent a long time getting the PE cowl flaps installed. While I love the scale look of these things, they are a royal P.I.T.A. And the way I chose to handle them on this model was, in retrospect, the wrong way. What I did was to paint the flaps off of the model and wait until the last moment to attach them. I did this thinking that once installed they are fragile, and that they need to be installed to line up precisely with the cowl, which needed the motor etc installed to accomplish (the latter is not true, and I would have realized that if I'd thought harder on it at the time). What I will do next time I build one of these kits (and despite the long haul that it was, I'm sure I'll do another at some point) is, before assembling the engine at all: 1. snap the two cowling halves together 2. set them on the bench nose-down 3. carefully drop in the rear engine mounting ring (it's a positive fit to a step) and make sure it is in the right radial orientation. 4. temporarily tack it in place with modeling putty or white glue 5. Fold up the PE cowl flaps and get their curve set right 6. glue the PE cowl flaps to the mounting ring, which will be super-easy because it is horizontal and you are coming at it from above 7. once all eight are installed, paint the whole assembly and set it aside, waiting until as late in the game as possible to assemble it to the engine/exhaust/engine mount That way will be a bunch easier that what I did.

Thanks Andy, yes it is a lovely kit, but I think the fact that it's resin possibly limits some of the detail provided, especially dare I say when compared with the recent ICM injection moulded products. A small "for example": I've spent some time cleaning up the fuselage this morning and having already decided not to have the engine panels open on this one, thought it best to glue the panels in place early on. The port panel is very curved because the forward part of the oil tank goes underneath the aft edge, see below: but when you look at the real thing details of securing bolts etc are missing: Sure I'll be adding them but is the kit quite as sophisticated as some earlier Silver Wings kits? A bit more in the cockpit: I was going to use the supplied "film style" instruments, but I'm afraid they are not quite right, so having exhausted my supply of Airscale ones, I've ordered some more. SW also didn't include the prominent vertical instrument, a rate of climb and descent meter I seem to recall, so I've added a couple of narrow strips.

And it's "official" now: infinitymodels.cz - LET L-13 Blaník 1/32 Juraj

Hello gents, My name is Olivier from Belgium. I'm a long time lurker on LSP as I do mainly 1/32 models but never actually posted a model. I decided to post my first after completing my first Fisher model: the Sea Fury. I read a lot of topics on this very forum while building this so many thanks to all previous LSP Sea fury builders, it was very helpful. The model is mostly OOB save for minor modifications around the Hook bump and scrath of the engine innards as some cover behind the exhaust plates were omitted and I wanted to detail the inside. Paints used were acrylic gunze H71&H72 for the top surfaces and Vallejo azure blue for the undersurfaces. I traded the fisher decals for some hobbycraft's desert fighter. Thanks for looking, any critic more than welcome.

Hi all, Just finished this, lovely kit - but the Meng additions are average - Instructions/ Decals. The wings were bent, but easily reformed. Work in Progress here: https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=11486.0 Guy

This is called a "Mega Tool" that every modeler should have in their arsenal. It's a punch of sorts, with several different sizes of small circles to either create or enhance rivets and Dzus fasteners. The key to application is to carefully set the punch to the area you want to apply a fastener, then push down and rotate, allowing the outside sharp edges to cut into the plastic. I bought mine from my favorite modeling supply store, UMM-USA, owned and run by one of the best modelers in the world and a true gentlemen, Jon Vojtech. It's even On Sale, so I'd order one right away Mega Tool Cheers, Chuck

So I have been working on this kit off and on with work since April. Been a interesting build to say the least. But overall I’m pleased with it so far.

Finally had an opportunity to work on the paint some more. I added the wing walk areas using the decals as a guide to length, width, and placement. According to photos taken during the time frame of Midway and just before, there were significant differences visible. From the pictures of 2106 taken immediately after her crash landing on Midway following the raid, I made the "best guess". I have also started cutting paint masks for the national insignias.

Infinity - can we please have a Swift , 1st Gen Harriers / Sea Harrier, Sea Vixen and Scimitar as well please! As my Granny used to say , "If you don't ask you don't get"!

Now presented on their website. No release dates yet: infinitymodels.cz - Z-37 Čmelák 1/32 Juraj

Well... I hope that someone is developing it, and I hope it comes in the next year or two. Real tired of hearing: "109's are done to death". Maybe they were done to death for you. But every 109 kit I've seen needs some AM to make it right. And while you were perhaps getting done-to-death in the last 40 years, some of us weren't modelling. So, please just consider that many new models are made for others and not for that guy that has everything. I've got the Revell G6. I've paid twice as much for AM as I did for the kit. And there is more that I could have gotten. I've got a Hasegawa G6, too. And in the last couple of years, I built the ancient Monogram 1/32 G6 with it's very far from perfect dimensions, shapes, and fixtures for moving rudder and elevators. Are there any I missed? Just to exclude Trumpy, I bought there F4 which is really a G2. The spinner is way off and the rivets that aren't perpendicular to the skin caused me to use the kit for parts. Heh... it supplied the elevators and flaps for the ancient Monogram build. Anyway.... whoever builds it... and whether it be a 109G6 Late, or a 109G12... Thank you for your effort! it will sell. I guarandamnteeit.

Just a quick update to show you guys some of what I've been up to. I wanted to try the decals so I did the vertical stabilizer and they went on very well. They just have a light gloss coat over them now. I also wanted to get your opinion on the engine exhaust heat shielding. It's a combination of MRP and Alclad paints. They both seemed to go on about the same and worked fine together.

Aaah, good thinking! Glad you are enjoying it Don, so am I. This is what LSP is all about. Ok, so much serious study on this back end. Huge thanks for everyones input and observations over the past few days. It has created a whole lot more work....but I have come this far so....what the hey. As John pointed out in his initial photo and comparisons, and then backed up by Derek, the change is quite obvious the more you look. Here is a photo of our very own Iain Ogilvie he took (possibly with Derek around?) and I think it captures the shape change well. Thanks Iain! You can really see here how the back end right behind the reheat can dips right down. Notice the fasteners. I just need to study this more to make sure the whole end dosent taper or just bulged above the tailhook mount area. I think Barry might have got it correct. Thanks again chaps, your input is more appreciated than you realise! And just glad I found out before it was too late! Cheers Anthony

Basic and a little rough, but learning as we go... Regards, Len

I'd dump the Revell and Trumpeter Corsair kits, and snatch the Tamiya kit; it's outstanding in every way imaginable.

Ive been in overlanding/isolation mode with the wife since the beginning of the year, and while I suspect that a majority of the populous was also isolating, we were isolating in the middles of nowhere when not isolating at home. That normally takes load of planning, updates and prep to the new trailer. Now that the trailer is mostly upgraded, and the main camping season is coming to an end for us, Im getting called back to the bench. My paint booth overhead light has been burned out since way WAY before I started my what-if Do-335, as well as having the ballast give out on one of the 3 sets of 4 bulb overhead light fixtures in my modeling room, so I spent this past weekend replacing the ballast on both my paint booth light fixture, as well as the 4 bulb overhead fixture. The paint booth 2 bulb ballast was not made anymore, so the new ballast I installed was much simpler with less wires, so it all had to be re-wired. In the end, I got both fixed, and now have a nice fully lit workshop! I decided then and there to go full out, and clean my two benches thoroughly, as well as give the floor a good sweeping. After all that I was ready to dive back into the Ki-45! I got some of the seams smoothed out from gluing all the fuselage panels on in the last round of pics, and got to assembling the mount for the two forward firing machine guns. In this case, I will be having none of the panels open, so none of the machine gun ammo case nor any wiring will be seen in the end, so I did not bother painting any of this for fit sake. It turns out the fit of this assembled part including the nose cone I previously assembled was excellent. The fuselage as was left last round, with IP exposed. The assembled machine gun/nose cone mount and nose cone: The unpainted mount slips right into place with 0 finger pressure, and the nose cone fits about as perfectly over that as one could ever hope for. This assembly, also has a little fork at the back of it that locks the IP into place as well: Once I got the machine gun mount glued in, I put some Tamiya tape around the IP area to make sure it dried in the proper shape. Once that was a fixed I moved onto the next phase, which is the wheel wells. It was pretty late when I finally got all the lights working and entire workshop cleaned, so not as much progress as Id hoped, but did get a start on assembling the basics of the landing gear bays, as well as trimming the lower wing panels from their sprues and cleaning them up for a bit of a dry fit. (which btw also fit stellar!). The landing gear bay wall sections, rear section and wing panels really do fit amazingly well. So well in fact, I was amazed to find the tiny little slot they provided for the rear engine bay bulkhead to slid into for wing assembly held the entire assembly together with 0 glue. Really well thought out ZM!: All for now gents, but hope to be back at my nice clean and now well lit bench tonight working on the Ki-45. I'm back and feeling it at the bench, and want to get the MoJo flowing with the Ki-45 so I can finish it. Then Im hoping to move onto bluer fields............................ Till next time all!

Hi all, I'm now working on the tail unit, starting with the rear float. First is to pre-rig the eight bracing wires between the four support struts. The mono-filament used is 0.08 mm diameter with 0.4 Nickel-Silver tube and 1:48th scale turnbuckles from 'GasPatch'. Next step is to fit the float and struts then complete the rigging from the fuselage to the float, Mike

Yes panels are supposed to fit one way only, that's why they have one or two different size screws or bolts so the panel does get put on the right way however some can go on anyway that fits. Check the 0 on the tail of this F-8: Jari

Your opiniom Vincent. While ZM kits are quite a bit different from any other 1/32 releases, and to some, over-engineered, they are accurate in terms of shape and geometry. They may not be to your taste, but you are off base stating they will not be as accurate as a Hasegawa kit. You simply cannot back that statement up with other than conjecture. I do want to see Tamiya release an iconic German WWII fighter. 109 or 190 is debatable, to me the 109 gets the nod. If ZM is working on one, I want to see it. You betcha guys will be going over it with a fine tooth comb. IF Tamiya does one as well, then we, the modelers win either way.

You only need to paste the part after [img]: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50351734827_f85df629e0_c.jpg And here we go: Juraj

Yup. Heating up a piece of clear acetate material and pulling it down over the original part to make a copy. Then you can trim it out and install. It is a version of draw forming. THOR

Thanks for pointing that out. It should be an easy fix.

That is some great painting on the hot end. I just want to remind you that the vertical panels leading to the stab pivot surround were a type of stainless alloy (Inconel X nickel/chrome as I recall) and remained a bright looking silver metallic colour. As can be seen inc Chuck's QF-4E jet nozzle photo

Foot pads (I reworked them some) are now pretty much finished. A wee bit more work needed to the turntable itself, and I'll be ready for paint, and I'm really looking forward to that.

They are not. Only the windscreen and sliding canopy are provided with the Squadron vac canopy. HTH, D

Thanks one and all! I have to say again how stellar the fit has been on this kit. Its better than my HK Do-335, buy a long way, and the fit on that kit was outstanding, but this kit is way more complex, with a substantially better fit. I have to give ZM all the credit here, as things have generally fit about as well as anyone building a complex kit like this could hope for. AAMOF, I did some dry fitting with the kit last night, and I pretty much had only the lower wing halves glued on, and it supported the complete main gear setup, as well as just hanging an engine off one wing to see how things looked, all with 0 glue.

Thanks Kagemusha!! Even though I've been working like a dog at work I have NOT given up my benchtime. I managed to build the engine and install and start work on the interior. The engine originally had 11 parts to it but in typical fashion I added the spark plug wires, fuel line from the pump to the carburetor and installed the circuits leading to the generator. I would've posted progress sooner but I took Macro shots and spotted more boo-boo's than I could count so I made all the corrections and now have a presentable bit of progress. If anyone is thinking about getting this kit...I HIGHLY recommend it. Plenty of detail and goes together very well.

NATO code "beast")))- IL-10

I believe the next all new kit from ZM will be the Mustang III.

Thanks Thor! As promised a couple pics. The fit on the very complex fuselage panel arrangement is really stellar. I must have aligned things well, because all the internal parts and extra separate fuse panels practically fell into place. Got the starboard fuselage side all glued up, and all the internal bits glued in on that side, including control linkages, vertical tail spine, and the tail wheel and its mechanism. In this case, I actually completed the tail wheel, painted it, then broke it all apart again and put some right rudder into the tail wheel to add some interest, and to match the right rudder in the rudder pedals I had previously installed. All the goodies in the starboard fuselage half, ready to be joined w/the port side: For all the complexities of the interior parts, and the multiple fuse sections I really thought Id struggle to get it all buttoned up. Not the case at all, everything fit and fit well, just as advertised: Then the port side was glued in, and the fit was again stellar. Preparation makes perfection! I dry fit, about (what felt like) 50 times, before actually gluing any parts in the starboard side, and that led to a great fit on the port: I actually have added the top spine fuselage section, as well as the belly section around the canon as well, but no pics of that yet, as things are still hardening off. Fit on those two pieces was nearly as stellar as the two main halves! After breaking the tail wheel gear into two sections, I drilled both halves of tail wheel gear out, and inserted some hardened steel piano wire, twisting the gear to the right before gluing it all back up. This promptly broke off the OOB brake line hose, (which was hard plastic) which then got replaced with a brass fitting (EBay watch parts from the stash) and some flexible rubber hosing I got from a Japanese model car site. The hose turned out to be much more flexible and easier to work with, so I drilled out the internal tail wheel well bulkhead to accept the end of the tail brake hose, per my reference pictures: The holes look a bit wonky from this angle, but they really look better in person, and will nearly be invisible once the rest of the empennage gets put on. Thats all for now boys, Im on call for work atm, so hopefully will get back to the bench in the next couple days. Cheers,