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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/14/2020 in all areas

  1. September 13/20 New Forum software, cool! Thanks to Kevin and the LSP crew for keeping this site feeling new and fresh (with a few adjustments ). Well, I have finally discovered what the difficulties with the main landing gear wells are all about! After a lot of dry fitting, checking the builds of others like Rick K’s (thanks!) and trying to find an easy solution to the problems, I think I have a method that works fairly well. What are the problems? Not much, other than: There is a big error in the instructions. Thanks to “Leitch” for the heads-up on that earlier. The instructions are confusing and they should not be followed exactly The 6 main parts of each gear well do not fit each other very well and many of them need to be trimmed significantly to fit. Further, most of the parts also need to be trimmed to fit between the main wing parts. There are no definitive locking tabs or other ways to ensure that the parts are being placed correctly. It is easy to unknowingly flip pieces incorrectly. So here is Step 29 (Step 28 will be posted later), which has you glue the gear well parts to the lower wing. The problem with that if you do, is that they will not fit the upper wing which can easily be seen from below. Second, the long parts at the front, H21 and H33 should be flipped, which I have edited in the instructions. The only place you see the front of these parts and what is correct, is in Step 30, but the parts are now flipped completely upside down, adding to the confusion. The right gear bay (left side in Step 29 above) is in the middle and the lower right. Since the upper wing parts (B2, B3) are where the parts should fit the best, you should glue them to these parts and use Step 30 as your guide, not Step 29. Instead of just gluing them all together at once, I did this iteratively, starting with Parts H21 and H33 at the front as the anchor points. I dry fit them to the bottom wing as the glue dried to get the correct angle. When they dried completely and were hard, I sanded off quite a bit to the top edge on both sides. Dry fitting them many times in between sanding steps to get a snug fit that allowed the wing halves to close completely. With only one part cemented in, it was easy to determine where things fit and where they didn’t. I then glued the middle Part J13/J14, let it dry, then did the same sanding and dry fit routine. Again, using only one part at time makes alignment troubleshooting easy. Here the ridges on the bottom for Parts H19/H20 to attach to are too thick and should be thinned allowing them to connect to Parts J13/J14 cleanly. Here are all 12 gear well parts trimmed and glued together one at a time, including the landing gear anchor points Parts H15/H16 within the outside edges to provide a solid bond. Many adjustments were made for width, length and angle as they were dry fit to each other and the bottom wing. Not only were the gear well parts trimmed, but many places on the lower wing needed trimming as well. This to me is proof positive that if you glued all parts to the lower wing in Step 29 as instructed, fit to the upper wings would be a mess. A view from the top with everything dry fit together. The inner walls should be sanded a bit, because they can interfere with the outside cockpit cage in the fuselage. This entire area should be painted interior green as well, since some of it will be visible from the top of the cockpit. From the bottom. Everything should fit snugly without the need for clamps. When the wing halves are glued together, the gear wells provide interior strength. The next steps will be to add several parts to gear wells, paint them, weather them, then glue the wings together. Thanks for your continued interest in this slow project. Cheers, Chuck
    17 points
  2. Hi all, Just finished this, lovely kit - but the Meng additions are average - Instructions/ Decals. The wings were bent, but easily reformed. Work in Progress here: https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=11486.0 Guy
    14 points
  3. This is my latest build. I used Eduards Big Ed sit for this build. This was a mixed bag as usual with Kitty Hawk. In the end it came together but I'm not really happy with it. It could have been better but I didn't have the energy to put more effort into it. Just happy it didn't end on the shelve of dome. Eric
    9 points
  4. LSP_Kevin

    bbCode: Don't Use It!

    Howdy folks, With the recent upgrade to the forum software now bedded down, one major change that it introduces is worthy of its own announcement and discussion: bbCode is no longer supported. Let me repeat that: bbCode is no longer supported Some of you are probably thinking, what the hell is bbCode, and why should I care? That's a fair question, but most of you will recognise bbCode as the stuff inside the square brackets that occasionally surrounds text for formatting and other purposes. You're not meant to see it, as it's designed to be interpreted by the forum software, and the relevant formatting applied to the enclosed text. So if it's working properly, you shouldn't see it at all. But the problem is, it often doesn't work properly, and you see the bbCode in all its square-bracket glory instead. Here are some examples: [URL][/URL], [IMG][/IMG], [b][/b], [i][/i], etc. Because it's old, flaky, and not very efficient, many systems are kicking it to the kerb - including our own. Here's the important bit: Where this matters for our purposes is in pasting image links from our various image hosting providers, as many of them provide these links in bbCode format (among others). Many of you are used to copying exactly that version of those links and pasting them into your posts. This will no longer work, and will instead result in only the string of bbCode-enclosed text showing in your post, like so: [URL=https://imageshack.com/i/poM48vidj][IMG]https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/M48vid.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Not exactly pretty, and not at all what we want, either! Where's our image? From now on, all you need to paste into your posts is the direct image URL. In the bbCode string above, that's the bit in the middle that starts with 'https' and ends with '.jpg'. Everything is superfluous and non-functional bbCode. This is all we want: https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/M48vid.jpg Which, when pasted directly, gives us this: (With apologies to Marcel for borrowing his image for this example.) Pretty much all the dedicated image hosting services that I'm aware of give you access to the direct URL, so it should be reasonably easy to find and copy. But whatever you do, don't simply load the image up in your browser, and copy the link from the address bar. This address will almost always be for the web page displaying the image, and not the image itself. Apologies for the long-winded post, but I figured a comprehensive explanation was in order here. If you have any questions, fire away! Kev
    8 points
  5. www.facebook.com/specialhobby Juraj
    7 points
  6. thanks Jim, yes I used magic sculpt resin, my fav material for this , cheers thanks Brett, I sculpt the early style which is more interesting than the later one thanks Jack, there is always a risk on these projects, I resuscitated this one after a few years, hope you get back too yours, cheers some more work on the seat cheers
    7 points
  7. Thanks Chris, and here is a bit more today. Thinning the trailing edges took less than 10 minutes, so nothing special even to photograph, but it does give finesse to the model and it is a must. Turning to the cockpit area, some sink marks were present on the exterior and were sanded out. Looking at the references in various books, I noticed the cockpit openings were too short. Notice the differences between both halves. The front opening extends all the way to the cabane struts, and the section between cockpits has become smaller. I am redoing all the interior for the kit, removing the molded on details and using 0.75mm rod and 0.75mm square section styrene for the new structural sections. Thanks for watching! Alain
    6 points
  8. The Tomcat now has received its identity: Applying a coat of Tamiya X-22 diluted with Mr Levelling Thinner has protected the underlying coats of paint so that the carrier film has disappeared completely. I had omitted this step in the past as the MRP paints are glossy enough to avoid silvering, I'll be doing this again from now on. And here are two unforgiving photos of the carbon fibre shrouds in front of the nozzles. Carbon decals are usually extremely brittle and annoying to work with (that's why almost all of my F1 models are stalled...) and the ones I have used were no exception. The infamous "ring" between the shrouds and the nozzles will be covered with bare metal foil once the decals are sealed with clear varnish.
    6 points
  9. The Grumman Avenger AS3 owned by the Canadian Warplane Heritage Museum in Hamilton, Ontario performed engine tests and taxi runs on Saturday, September 12, after a long restoration. Everything went smoothly and they will be performing other checks while waiting for certification to fly. She looks beautiful in Royal Canadian Navy colours, and they had the proper canopy fabricated. Photos by Museum photographer Derek Mickeloff. Richard
    5 points
  10. thank you James, I'm very glad you are following this build with interest cheers lots of dry fit and trim for fitting the cockpit is what been happening lately, done sculpting on the cushion. cheers
    5 points
  11. What a nice and much appreciated response. Thank you, and as the saying goes, "I try!" Some may wonder why I bother, which is a combination of the following: Much of what I do I learned from others, so I like to pass on this information, along with other tips I discover along the way These build threads make me a better modeler, especially when posting close-up images of my work. Often times I will photograph a build step and find some flaws which I had not noticed before. If I'm lucky and it's early enough in the build, I fix them and the model is better for it I try to make my build threads interesting, which often attracts experts on my subject who offer tips and advice, helping me build a more accurate model. I can't think of model I've made that wasn't influenced by others, including this one I'm still learning, which makes this hobby always interesting. With a public audience, I push myself to try new things and get better. As we all know, this forum has many expert modelers that we will never equal, but it's still fun to try! I'm also interested in photography, which like my models, has improved quite a bit over the last 5 years or so, as I try and learn new photographic techniques I write modeling articles, mostly for FineScale Modeler magazine. When my build is over, I have a nice archive of build steps and pics to choose from for my article. This magazine is for the novice to intermediate modeler who want to know how you did certain things, rather than just looking at a nicely finished model. These build threads facilitate that. I like feedback and I'm not afraid to admit that I enjoy some praise now and then. We have a relatively lonely hobby that not much of the public can relate to, so receiving "attaboys" from your peers who understand what you have accomplished is very rewarding, much like your response above Cheers, Chuck
    5 points
  12. Greetings. This is my Revell 1/32 Mustang in colours of the Colonel Blakeslee c/o 335th Fighter Squadron , 4th Fighter Group , October 1944. If you don’t know, Don Blakeslee was the American ace credited with having the highest number of missions (over 500 sorties / 1000 hours) in the ETO as well as leading the first unit of Mustangs over Berlin. Training with the RCAF in 1941, flying Spitfires, Thunderbolts and eventually Mustangs, one obituary described him as “the most decorated second world war US Army Air Force fighter pilot “ . A fascinating and inspiring character. The P51D BuNo 4413779 was delivered to the unit on the 30th June 1944, and carrying the personal letter C, became Blakeslee’s mount till he was grounded for being “too valuable to loose” on 1st Nov 1944. The 27 year old Colonel Blakeslee didn’t go in for nose art or victory markings, but always flew C for Charlie as he reckoned it stood for “chief cook and bottlewasher”. Service records show this aircraft belly landed on 1st Nov 1944 at RAF Harrowbeer near Plymouth in Devon (quite some distance from “home” at RAF Debden in Essex) and this may be part of the reason Blakeslee’s flying days were considered done . Growing up a Plymouth boy, I spent a lot of my teenage years wandering around that old RAF base imagining the wartime exploits 40 years earlier, it was also popular as a place to learn to drive Dad's car. The aircraft was repaired and went on to serve with other pilots of the 335th until the end of the war, being scrapped in September 1945. There is now a replica on the UK airshow circuit G-SHWN. I found a picture of 4413779 dated between 10th and 27th October, just a couple of weeks before the landing at Plymouth. Shows the recently applied red canopy framing, white tail and an OD wing fillet taken from a 336th aircraft. 2020 has been a busy year for me in my usual armour arena: 4 Battle of the Bulge, 4 Normandy , 5 other dioramas, two 1/48 jets plus other odds and sods, and so I decided I wanted to try something different and new . So… let’s have a go at Alclad NMF ….. Mustang seems a good subject (never made one in any scale before - i'membarrassed how is that possible ??) Bought the Revell kit as it was all going to be a bit experimental, and if it goes wrong then, er ,no great loss, and ………sheez.......... it’s only got Olive Drab as the kit offerings …no …no …..NO more olive drab !!! So looked around for a more suitable NMF Mustang and decided to do this particular aircraft instead. Mostly out of box, made a dinghy (?) for the seat and some homemade belts, and also the specific aircraft markings as couldn’t find a set in 1/32. Also had a go with using Flory wash instead of the usual oils, so as ever, a few firsts with every model. Hope you enjoy. Guy PS Hope you don’t mind a sneaky last pic of the previous model I completed before starting this one, and perhaps the nemeses of the 8th Air Force…., a Dragon 88mm Flak 36 .
    4 points
  13. She’s as enthusiastic as I am after seeing the CADs. She has a Typhoon, a Tornado, and a Mig-23 under her ‘built list’.
    4 points
  14. I'm working on the cockpit
    4 points
  15. I wouldn't be so sure LOL.... I'm doing this for you guys, so someone releases a lovely 'shake n bake' kit for Y'all. In fact I really dont know what I am doing... This next pic might help you see where I am going (trying) with this.... This really is the only difference between the kit part and the resin part. Either I graft this in or I might just rework the kit part??? I need to go to bed soon, my head aches thinking about how to do this bit properly...maybe tomorrow I will be able to think more clearly about it! Either way, there is no coming back from this butchery! Cheers guys Anthony
    4 points
  16. The G-6 is where the Bf 109 really matured. It was around the G-6 that most radical changes and improvements happened, armament, power plants, aerodynamics, which led to the later more streamlined versions. When publishers release books on the Bf 109 they prefer to split the lineage into two large categories: “pointy nose” (B,C,D,E) and “round nose” (F,G,K) which may explain why some think in terms of “early” and “late”. But that is too simplistic. Putting the F, G and K together into one large family just because they share a round spinner is missing the point. The F is quite different from the G. The G-6 alone deserves a book on its own. The K deserves a book on its own too because it was a “reimagined” Bf 109 inside and out, think of it like MiG-21 vs MiG-21 Bis, similar but not the same. Radu
    4 points
  17. aeroscale.kitmaker.net - Nieuport 23 Marking Options www.copperstatemodels.com - [PRE-ORDER] Nieuport XXIII RFC Service An illustration for the markings listed in the previous post. Juraj
    4 points
  18. The ZM Bf 109 is not "vaporware", work is in progress and I have "some involvement" with it. It takes years and a lot of work to produce a model, and this one is on its way. Radu
    4 points
  19. chrish

    109 E-3 Completed

    Well....not the best E-3 you'll ever see that's for sure. But it's on the wall ready to collect dust with the rest of my display pieces, which, ironically are nowhere near anywhere they could be seen or displayed. I put it on a small display board with some shrapnel and spare parts laying around: Thanks for stopping by
    4 points
  20. started with some modifications on the cockpit, instrument panel and exauths courtesy from Tamiya, cheers
    4 points
  21. Here are some pics of the F-4G updates. Molding quality is outstanding and to my eye the nose correction looks good. I'll definitely be using this set for my Revell F-4G. This is just dry fitted on: The set includes a variety of antennas etc: I also got the opened belly doors and interior, which looks good. The masking set is also very useful, specifically also the exhaust masks. Cheers, Marcel
    3 points
  22. My first encounter with the Whirlwind was probably in an "Air Ace" comic book when I was very young, these comic books were my favourites. Illustrated is a typical one from 1961, not the one one that fired my imagination that one was the story of a mission to occupied France and the Whirlwind pilot was shown bailing out of his burning aircraft after saving a Typhoon from being shot down so that it could accomplish it's mission. Something heroic like that, it was a while ago after all. Then of course there was the Airfix 1/72 scale kit which was totally impressive to me, given my size at the time it was probably the equivalent of a 1/32 scale kit to me now. Cheers Dennis
    3 points
  23. Like a lot of 'also rans' out there this machine is part of the story and therefore part of the legacy of WWII for the RAF. Perhaps you could liken the situation of the Whirlwind to that of the TSR2, lot's of promise but no real future for all sorts of reasons. The TSR2 also has a lot of fans out there but never served, it still stirs emotions even now! Who wouldn't get excited if a 1/32 TSR2 was announced in IM plastic?
    3 points
  24. Quickboost resin MG's Rivetted the fuselage
    3 points
  25. Welcome to my world Anthony! lol When I am scratch building or doing what you do, generally, neither do I! (I have a general idea what I want, but often no real idea of how to accomplish it - there is no right or wrong answer or way here). As you will undoubtedly find, once you have taken the first brave step and built up the courage to cut plastic, you very quickly gain in confidence and experience as you proceed. What this ultimately does is provide you with more and more options of how to overcome/resolve/mess up (delete as applicable) any given situation or problem. Good luck and keep up the good work Anthony. Cheers Derek
    3 points
  26. Ok here we go. Over on BM in the rumormonger section a member (and fellow Aussie) said that he was having a few beers with an engineer that did work for the big T before Covid hit. He said he was working on (CAD) a WW2 twin engined aircraft used in the Pacific. He did also say that a lot of CAD work is done on subjects that never see daylight. If what he was working on does make it into plastic it can really only be a P-38 as T must have lots of data that they used to make the 1/48 P-38s. You heard it here first unless it's all a hoax in which case this post will self destruct. TRF
    3 points
  27. Sounds like a fun project Radu, I learned something- your enthusiasm is infectious- hope they sell like hot cakes.
    3 points
  28. Thanks guys... here's some more work on the RD-33's: Airbrushed with Vallejo flat aluminum mixed with some Tamiya tans, browns and blacks. Cheers, Marcel
    3 points
  29. Hi Chuck Great work on fixing the gear walls. You make it look so easy. I remember on my build after opening the box and looking at the fine surface detail I thought “ Tamiya is in trouble “. After sweating through the wheel wells I realized Tamiya is far from trouble. Keep up the good work. Nick
    3 points
  30. Dave Williams

    Forum Upgrade

    I figured it out. I clicked my name in the upper right to get into my account settings. The “Content View Behavior” had been reset to “take me to the beginning”. I changed it to “take me to comments I haven’t read”, saved it, and it’s good now.
    3 points
  31. Progress on the home-made mask front. It's straightforward to have the Silhouette software trace a solid shape on an image. So I took a photo of the Tamiya decal sheet. And used the Cameo to cut it out in Oramask 813 vinyl film. I got some 810 as well, as I've seen people discussing using both types. The machine has a pre-set cutting protocol for an Oracal 651 stencil vinyl, and I just used that since the parameters in it are identical to what some folks had posted about using for Oramask. This is the vinyl post-cut (I made four replicates to play with). I placed a piece of regular artist's frisket paper on the front of it, and buffed it down well. And then peeled the backing of the Oramask off of the back. And stuck this down onto a piece of styrene card. Peeled the frisket off and picked out the letters. Sprayed some paint. And peeled the mask Not bad, although I nicked the "B" a bit when peeling the mask off. So proof-of-concept for sure. I need to do another test on a painted surface to make sure the Oramask isn't so sticky that it might pull the base paint off. If it is I'll try to de-tack a bit before placing the masks. But it looks like this will work to let me paint the tail codes with pretty decent precision. For scale, those numbers are 10.2 mm tall.
    3 points
  32. LSP_Kevin

    bbCode: Don't Use It!

    They will all have been converted as part of the upgrade process. Kev
    3 points
  33. Vague questions get vague answers. "Late" and "early" are vague terms considering that each letter suffix that was applied to any type of Bf 109 can sometimes be described as "early" or "late". Take for example the Bf 109 G-6, which due to incremental improvements may feature components and equipment (canopy, head armour, tail fin and rudder, water-methanol injection, cannon) that can best described as "early" (as intended on paper) and "late" (almost indistinguishable from a G-14). I have to clarify that I am not an official "spokesperson" for ZM. I am only a CAD designer and researcher working with ZM as part of a wider team. That team also includes people in charge of official announcements and I think it is best to allow them to make that kind of announcement. Radu
    3 points
  34. I'm resurrecting this project I started a couple of years ago, using the Revell "D" downgrading into a "B" model. some 1/32 Mustang kits on the bench for comparison measures the revell kit is the best option as a base for this operation, here without the main D features the leading wing was transformed using milliput some magic sculpt on top of that hump, tomorrow more sanding.... so this is it so far, many uncertainties yet on the way to come... cheers
    2 points
  35. Art Deco hot rod! - what's not to like? True, not a great success but looks great. Dad had a close encounter with one when they were stationed locally near Bath. I've two on pre order - can barely control myself.
    2 points
  36. posted on Lukgraph FB page
    2 points
  37. It's always about the journey, the learning experience and the knowledge gained! John Kennedy, we choose to do these things..."not because they are easy, but because they are hard, because that goal will serve to organize and measure the best of our energies and skills" Barry
    2 points
  38. whilst I have confidence in their ability to produce an accurate rendition of whatever marque they decide to go with, I think Z-M are unlikely to meet your criteria for not being 'overcooked', 'going together well' (I presume you mean Hasegawa / shake & bake?), and inexpensive. the only company i think that could meet all those is a new tool Hasegawa anyway, back to ZM, I am hugely excited to hear Radu is involved with the project
    2 points
  39. Piero

    JetMads 1/32 Viggen

    Can't wait for March 2021...
    2 points
  40. LSP_Kevin

    Forum Upgrade

    Actually, you don't need to do that at all, Ben. Just paste the link directly into the post edit window and hit either enter or return. That's it! Kev
    2 points
  41. Yes, former legacy hornet driver here. You can PM me if you like...perhaps I could help in your search for information. Patrick
    2 points
  42. nmayhew

    Forum Upgrade

    yes to this! the people who keep quoting a post with a thousand pics in drive me nuts the forum also seems to load faster now btw, both on mac and on iphone (chrome as broswer) previously it was dog slow when no other forum had issues anyway, nice one and thank you for your work Nick
    2 points
  43. Yep, for sure this will turn into a splendid looking B model, nice approach you did to get this far. I've tried this "conversion" with an old Revell B fuselage untill the firewall, and pasting a Hasegawa D nose onto it, but stalled it a while ago. Will follow this very closely, great job. Jack.
    2 points
  44. Resin2Details has released exhaust stub upgrade set for A-26 http://resin2detail.com/product/1-32-a-26-invader-exhaust-stub-upgrade/
    2 points
  45. Apologies for the delay fellas, but I'm finally back with another update - albeit a brief one. I've been slaving away over a replacement front seat, which in most Tiger Moths is radically different from what is supplied in the kit. I took my queue from both Max's and Chris's builds, but it turned out to be a much more difficult task than I had imagined, and it didn't help that I took probably the least clever path to get there. But get there I did, and after several days' work, this is what I was able to churn out: The heavily primered surface needs a bit of a polish, but it'll be ready for paint after that. I've included a bracket for the cockpit fire extinguisher, and new well for the control column. It looks a little rough, mainly because it is, but remember that the photo shows it at 2-3 times actual size, so it should look sufficient once painted, weathered, and in situ. Fire extinguisher and control column coming soon. Earlier, I'd also done some work on preparing the tail surfaces, and again basically just copied what Max had done. I started by thinning the relevant control horns: Thinned on the right, stock on the left. I separated the fin and rudder, too: Again, control horns thinned, blended in, and rigging holes pre-drilled. Contemplating adding attachment bolt heads for additional detail, but this stuff really tests my struggling eyesight! I also modified the horizontal tail surfaces in line with Max's work, drooping the elevators slightly: Control horns are suitably thinned, but still need some work to blend them in fully. More (hopefully) soon! Kev
    2 points
  46. Thank you sir! Ok I have found another issue with my WH resin. The lower aft section that runs between the burner cans to tail tip has a poor molding step. It is on both sides and is going to be a pain to fix , also it is not the best fit to the resin fuselage...*sigh* Soooooo, Looking at the plastic it seems that if I graft the tail section onto the resin center fuse I can use the kit lower section modified. This should give me a MUCH tidier join and it seems I can probably modify the kit part to match the Spey lower section. A bit more work, but I think will produce a tidier result. Might start on this tonight whilst I wait on some superglue filled panels to harden Cheers Anthony
    2 points
  47. Well yes among many others. Guaranteed his comments would be the basis for the MP's investigation as to the cause for the bar brawl that ensued.
    2 points
  48. I flew AH-1 Cobras, and OH-58’s in the Guard and UH-1H’s in flight school at Fort Rucker. Jet are for kids. You can’t really see what you need to kill at Flight level 3 whatever zero. Remember it was a flight of AH-64 ‘s that had to start Desert Storm for those air force gurls. When you need the job started or done well. Don’t call The AF. They were a part of the Army in 45 remember. Now we have to take the best to be Space Force. Too funny. . Remember those Navy boys are still seeing bugs inside their radar displays and so-so swear they are seeing UFO’s. Oh plz!,,, Army all the way. Good luck on your answer.
    2 points
  49. And now I get to show you the biggest folly I have committed yet on the R-2800 project - the carburetor. Why did I spend two weeks on a component that is going to be practically unseen? Well - part of the reason is that when I finish this engine, I intend to display it on it's own for a while, as I do other things for the Corsair like the cockpit or the wings, or the cowl. And partly because R-2800's had big bad-a__ carburetors, and it would just be neat to do one. Pretty weak.... The R-2800 had many variations, and part of those variations were the carburetor. "A" and "B" series engines all had some version of the Bendix-Stromberg PT-13 carburetor. In the case of the F4U-1's and everything up until the F4U-4, it was the PT13-D4, which was an upside down (updraft) version: I have no idea why Vought wanted a carburetor on the bottom of the engine instead of on top like almost all other R-2800-equipped aircraft. Any of you know? That is the reason this work is such folly - it almost cannot be seen down there. Up until I found actual drawings of PT-13 carburetors and their components at AirCorps Library, I really had very little to go on to model it. Vought drawings of the engine compartment stuff showed outlines but no good details. My R-2800 book had some decent pictures: That helped some but I could not scale much of anything. Note that it looks like a great big single-lens-reflex camera. It has a throttle body, a regulator unit, and a control unit. Then I discovered that Aircorp Library had Fuel System information in their "components" section. Thank you, Thank you! Look: Amazing! And there were drawings of the components too (all three - body, regulator, controller, and more too). Only thing is - there was nothing on the updraft -D4 version. Only several versions of downdraft versions (right side up). But that's OK - the versions shared many components or very similar versions of those components - some opposite hand, some upside down, etc. That eliminated some of the guesswork. And sadly, the drawing pictures are not crisp enough - where most of the dimensions cannot be read. But I figured out a few though, which allowed me to scale everything else. And using some pictures I have of the actual F4U engine which include the carb, I was off to the races. Just using all types of EV plastic stock, and dozens of Meng nuts, I made the basic body (on the right) and the control unit and regulator unit (on the left): Finished: And temp placed on the (upside down) engine: These super-duper close-ups reveal things I'd rather not reveal! Looks much better from a foot or two away: OK, here are the engine components completed to date (after about 9 months of work): Next is the aft section which is two components: Good god - these are complicated. With any luck I will complete these before the election! Please stay tuned.
    2 points
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