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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/09/2020 in all areas

  1. I bought this kit quite a long time ago, I think it was one of the first LSP's I bought. I did so because it was 69 bucks, at the time I thought it was a bargain for a large scale Macchi 202. The I tried building it and found out why there weren't many builds of this kit around. What I remember from doing the interior is it required sanding down the inside of the fuselage a lot to make the resin fit. I got finished doing this, turned towards the wheel wells and that's where I stopped. Years past with this kit sitting in the shelf of doom. The pile of dust on it was quite impressiv
    12 points
  2. I grew up with this image hanging on our wall at home. If the drama of this picture isn't enough to inspire building a Korean War Sabre, then I don't know what will! The F-86 is one of the most beautiful aircraft ever produced, and many pilots (including Bob Hoover) consider it the finest to fly. It certainly has something to do with its sensual curves... as well as its rakish angles. It just plain looks fast, that you want to touch. There is a problem however - no kit in 1:32 does it any justice. Sure, there is the Has
    8 points
  3. Another Zero finished. 1/32 Hasegawa kit, Eduard color cockpit & wheels, Yahu instrument panel, HGW wet transfers & seat belts, Aber gun barrels, All colours MRP test sample IJN
    8 points
  4. Engine joined to airframe... The prop is just slipped on via a poly cap. I still need to ship-in-a-bottle a few more linkages etc into this space behind the engine, but already I'm realizing how hard it is to see much of what's in there (it's dark, amongst other things, even with a bright light shining on it). Oh well, as they say, "I know it's in there" LOL. I got all eight of these guys made (and tagged because otherwise I'd never remember which went where). I'll get em painted tomorrow night hopefully.
    6 points
  5. Surprised no one has jumped on this yet, so I'll give it a go. Seventy five or so years ago fabric surfaces on aircraft were doped, not painted like metal surfaces. Applying liquid dope to fabric is a multi step process that attaches, tightens, seals and protects the fabric. The final coat(s) of dope can be pigmented to match whatever color you want, although a doped surface is not going to look the same as a metal one because it is more like a bedsheet than a sheet of aluminum. The fabrics and liquids most commonly used at the time were Grade A cotton, linen and butyrate or something simi
    6 points
  6. Here is where I am with the outer exhausts, basis of which are the beautifully done and correctly sized Zacto renditions. Chris sent me a spare set after I screwed up my first attempt... I tried to use liquid mask to create a splattered effect but just couldn't get the mask off, plus the paint would form a noticeable ridge at the demarkation in those instances where I was able to get the mask off. For the below, I started the painting with an overall spray of half flat aluminum / jet exhaust mixture (all metallic colors are Vallejo acrylic). This to get a duller overall finish, app
    6 points
  7. chrish

    109 E-3 Completed

    at the stopping point for the day, the landing gear under construction;
    5 points
  8. Not a bad fit. Not perfect, but not bad at all. I strongly suspect that I perhaps didn’t spend quite enough time making sure that everything was aligned exactly as per the instructions, and yet it does seem to me like I really did. Who knows.
    5 points
  9. Hi Quang. I get this point but I do not see how I could get a similar result with a paintbrush. If you know a technique that allows the reproduction of such details, please share it with me. The only system that more or less reached a similar level of detail was the old Waldron print but each part was monochrome.
    4 points
  10. Take a look at this and then imagine how much better 1/32 would be. Quinta 1/48 for Tamiya Tomcat
    4 points
  11. Thanks all! I am starting the construction of the A6M5c 1/32 Hasegawa, I will prepare photos of riveting and painting, step by step.
    4 points
  12. On to the wings…. The small blue identification lights was painted with Tamiya clear blue and then I glued a small piece of Aluminium foil (shiny side down) as the reflector. Italeri made the wings in very conventional way. Two separate pieces on each side, that feels very ”old school” today when almost all makers would do a three-piece wing and avoiding too many joints. I have to say that all parts fit very well, tough.
    4 points
  13. DerekB

    1/32 Wirraway

    With COVID-19 lockdowns going on in Melbourne, I've been physically separated from this build (which lives on my yacht in Geelong) for several months! I'm currently doing CAD modelling of the fuselage sides, to check if it will be easier to 3D-print new sides rather than sculpting the fabric panels into the Texan kit fuselage side moldings, although that might still be a possibility. I'm also playing with a 1/72 Wirraway build... might post that on "Non-LSP Works" at some point in the near future...
    4 points
  14. Thank you very much again for your words guys, I leave some progress almost finished ... I still have some problems, I missed the color RLM02, I used the 1941 instead of the 1938, but anyway, it's still to take rhythm hehe..
    4 points
  15. Hi Derek, The entire panel is scratch-built, including the compass - though I can't take credit for airscale's dial & placard decals, or photo-etch bezels. Not sure how I would have tackled this panel without them! The compass is built up from punched discs, an idea I got from @VW Chris 1969 I believe. I meant to do a better job of removing the seams between the discs, but I found it impossibly small to sand. In the end, I think the seams provide some nice visual detail and texture, even if they weren't there in real life. The compass face is a decal from the airscale sheet, an
    4 points
  16. red Dog

    exhaust nozzles

    nozzle are open when engine is not running nozzle are open (per checklists should be above 94%) at idle thrust nozzle are closed at military thrust (they close gradually from 70% RPM (idle) to mil power) nozzle are wide open in AB Nozzle close during SEC operation (less than 10% open) regardless of RPM setting (AB is inhibited)
    3 points
  17. 3 points
  18. I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that personally I like them. No different to when colour PE, and other media came out etc. I remember when PE became available, I was amazed what it was doing for our hobby at the time. I am a results builder. I will use whatever means available to achieve what I think is realistic. I simply couldnt achieve what these parts do and in my mind looking into a cockpit and seeing that would really impress me. Sometimes I have to scratchbuild cockpit items, but I dont enjoy it with failing eyes and clumsy fingers, this for me saves time and gives grea
    3 points
  19. Indeed. To me this will at last allow to get detailed instrument panels for sixties and seventies jets as they had tons of knobs and switches with white stenciling everywhere. And this white stenciling has always been a nightmare to be reproduced correctly.
    3 points
  20. A little progress today in the cockpit area, the joysticks have been added together with the control rod underneath: and this bit (!) is important but not very well covered in the instruction booklet: because the latter implies the pupil's rudder pedal mechanism is one piece, but in fact the curved extensions either side of the basic mechanism have to be added. Now the importance of these innocent bits suddenly hit me this afternoon when I was cleaning up the fuselage halves; they are the control horns which pass through the
    3 points
  21. Couple more images with a few additions. Some little cargo bundles covered in tarps, some extra trucks, etc.
    3 points
  22. Thanks, fellas. I fear getting bogged down in this one, but at the moment my enthusiasm is high and my momentum is good. I'll post another update when work in the cockpit is a bit more advanced. Kev
    3 points
  23. Finally done with the bomb bay! Completed the port sidewall, which was primarily control cables running the length. I might add a few last bits if the mood strikes me but at this point, I'm moving on to the bomb bay doors and then the engine cowlings. I need to be careful, this is typically the stage of a long build where I get into trouble, once I see that I'm getting close to the finish and start rushing. Must..... resist...... . Anyway, a couple of last pics of my work in this area. That's it for now, thanks again for looking!
    3 points
  24. Thanks! I always rivet before the paint.
    3 points
  25. Phantom2

    MiG-21 UM "Mongol"

    Thanks to all responders! Time for the next episode in my MiG-21 Story…. The engine is built up and I have painted the fan with Alclad Aluminium… The landing gear wells glued to the fuselage…. The nose gear done, just some hydraulic lines and paint left to do later…. The wheel wells painted and washed…. There´s not very much aftermarket stuff for this kit but I found som
    3 points
  26. Air Intakes glued and painted…. Fuselage halves glued and the intakes glued, very, very nice fit here! The cockpit and wheel well glued to the bottom piece…. I´ll leave this joint unglued for now so I can get a good fit against the radome later. Ejector pin marks in the intakes,
    3 points
  27. The cockpit drybrushed with a dark grey (Hu.27)…. Side consoles drybrushed and glued…. A wash with my regular mix of artist oils (Lamp black/Burnt Sienna) and white spirit in the nose wheel bay…. The instrument panel painted with Alclad Black Microfiller Primer…. …and gloss coate
    3 points
  28. Plm

    WNW Gotha UWD

    Hello, First one of the year at last. Hope you like it.
    2 points
  29. Hello, this is my first post, in a brief intro, I am a 1/35 scale modeller of vehicles rather than airplanes, returning after years of not painting or assembling anything, now I get on airplanes. the model is the Trumpeter box of the bf 109 E4 trop in 1/32 ... I don't really have much experience, but so far it has been a headache to put it together ... the cockpit decal is much larger than the board was thus discarded, among other problems ... white 3 in comparison with the photos of the original, the number is oversized, etc ... by the way I am mounting it without any after market, direct fro
    2 points
  30. Sorry for this but I'm going crazy... I'm building my first Academy's F/A-18C kit and this evening I was looking at the shape of the big dorsal spine ... wait a minute... this dorsal spine looks really too "round" for me. Following DACO's book pics are used only for discussion purpose. This panel line looks in wrong position to me... And take a look at these.... What do you think? CIAO! Piero
    2 points
  31. Yeah but I see no interest when my finished cockpit looks exactly the same as my fellow modellers’. All I have to do is to open my wallet and shell out the $. Where’s the fun? What’s the hobby? Give me back the old-school Monogram inscribed Instrument panels. At least I’d feel I achieved something when I finish painting one of them.
    2 points
  32. Had a quick thought....perhaps it has already been said.........The Tamiya tomcat is made for this type of application......Just saying if Quinta is watching this space.....Do the Tamiya cat!
    2 points
  33. Hi Albert, So retirement is the key.....hmm that will take a while in my case I am afraid. Do not worry about superdetailing, I try my best but I never reach the level I see from a lot of people over here which is not a problem anyway love to watch it. I saw some pictures on Jari's Flickr account from some very weathered Phantoms. I really want to do that but it is so easy to go overboard and mess things up. I must try to find some more pictures from very weathered Phantoms and take a deep breath I guess.
    2 points
  34. ziggyfoos

    exhaust nozzles

    You'd want the open ones which "everyone" offers as an aftermarket replacement option. The Tamiya T-bird kit provides both options for the P+W nozzle since they had the inflight display option in that kit but no such luck for the GE kit. With so many open GE aftermarket options around, thankfully ResKit has recently released finally a closed GE nozzle too (I've been looking for one for inflight display). Someone else can chime in for exact positions for off, idle, cruise, MRT, afterburner, etc.
    2 points
  35. Hi all, While I'm waiting for decals I thought I'd work on the pilot. As this model is a float plane I thought I'd use the ‘Kellerkind’ Gotha bomber pilot (54095), as he is inflating his life jacket. Painted with 'AK Interactive' and 'Tamiya' acrylics. Dirt weathering is thinned 'AK Interactive' Kerosene (AK3029). Mike
    2 points
  36. Thank you! That's how I made the aerial wire: The wire itself is Ushi's rigging material. The insulators were made from heat-stretched tubes, which were thickened and "bulged" with white glue. The springs were made from tungsten fiber from old lamp bulbs. The funnel-shaped coverings are made from heat-stretched plastic sheet. I pulled all the elements (2 springs, 4 insulators and 2 funnel-shaped covers) onto the radio wire before gluing the antenna in place I worked with it for a few hours until it was done... Best wishe
    2 points
  37. chrish

    109 E-3 Completed

    Missed one;
    2 points
  38. chrish

    109 E-3 Completed

    A few hours fighting with Dragons instructions and photo etch and the wings are now closed up. I tried...I really tried to get all that p.e. Dragon include to make the control surfaces movable. I finally admitted defeat ripped it all apart and glued the control surfaces solid. Not like I take my models down off their dust collection points and move the controls anyway. The first problem with all this is Dragon illustrate the p.e. being attached to the upper wing half when it should show the lower wing half, partly my mistake for not noticing this (Anybody else have issues with Dragon kits inst
    2 points
  39. Gazzas

    ICM Wish List

    Combining FAA and interesting is an Oxymoron. Sorry mate.
    2 points
  40. LSP_K2

    Trumpeter 1:16 Jagdtiger

    I'm already beginning to strongly suspect that the plastic torsion bars will sag over time, just like they've proven to have done in real life, so I intend to epoxy the daylights out of them, prior to gluing the hull halves together, using the road wheels themselves to establish the proper "sit" that I'm after.
    2 points
  41. ringleheim

    1/32 D3A1 VAL?

    The Japanese kit makers are definitely patriotic when it comes to some of the iconic Japanese stuff from WWII. They all have a ton of Zeros, Yamato battleships, etc. And yet no Val or Kate. And even a lot of the WWII Japanese aviation stuff available in 1/48 scale is now very dated and could use a retool. It's weird!
    2 points
  42. Right, time for an update! I've spent most of the last 3 days scratch-building a replacement instrument panel, having already decided to go to town in the cockpit. And yes, I did check to see if there were any aftermarket options available, first! Sadly, not to be. In fact, apart from the odd decal sheet, there's virtually no dedicated aftermarket for this kit at all. I elected to go with the tried-and-true 'sandwich' method, whereby you sandwich a sheet of acetate (or other clear plastic) between a back plate and the instrument panel itself. Here's the result:
    2 points
  43. Madmax

    Teutonic Starfighter

    The story of the F-104G in the Luftwaffe is remarkable in itself, never mind the awe inspiring technological advances the aircraft embodied at its first flight only 9 years after the end of WWII. Despite many hardships in operating a total of 916 F-104s over a 30 year period, the Germans showed their Teutonic resolve, and made a success of their Starfighter program. It has been very satisfying building this model, and the research that went with it has given me a better perspective on the much hyped "Widow-maker". It is a beautiful aircraft to look at, and regardless of some typica
    2 points
  44. I ordered 2 sets for the F-16. I think they look pretty cool. I noticed one or two things missing that I’ll have to scratch, depending on which block I am doing. They’ll sell a bunch of these I bet. cheers Pete
    2 points
  45. Phantom2

    MiG-21 UM "Mongol"

    Hi All! I found this kit dirt cheap many moons ago, I couldn´t resist the crazy scheme and started it right away. But the build stalled after the nose gear bay and cockpit, don´t know why, really. The Czech Stress-Team was a unit for combat training, very much like the US Top Gun unit and have a similar job, training units in combat and tactics. I don´t know if they are still active, anybody here knows? Who can resist this grin? This is a really early Trumpeter kit and
    2 points
  46. Quick update as I was on a roll... Finished shaping the hook. Not going to mount it just yet, as I work my way through the major construction. Not that I’m afraid of it breaking, rather it’s a large fairly pointy piece of metal and I don’t feel like stabbing myself with it! Here it is compared to the kit part. You’ll note mine is about a mm wider. Otherwise, it looks good and is very stout. I drilled through the hook fairing part, so it’ll slide in. You can see how I bent the rods so it’ll rest on the fuselage and abuts the bulkhead. I’ll cover it liberally with JB W
    2 points
  47. Hi guys, here are a few I Phone pics to prove that this build is alive and well. I have run into a few challenges but am really enjoying the kit. This part of the CWS cockpit fit is ok... needs quite a bit of filling and sanding but that's no problem on this section. The LERX extension as it is right now. I must say I thought this would be a lot easier than it is turning out to be, getting the right contour seems to be almost impossible. I am using the Zacto exhausts which are incredible. My approach to replicating the various shades of silver, g
    2 points
  48. As usual, I glue everything that´s possible before having to paint. ”Mini-builds” as the cockpit, bang-seat (which I will not use) wheels, landing gears, wheel wells, weapons, and all those small subassemblies in a kit. The seat in the kit is… OK, but I always prefer a resin seat with molded seatbelts. The only M.B. Mk.4 I could find was a seat from Isra-Cast, but did Israel use the same seat as France? Anyway, Isracast´s seat is miles ahead of the original…. T
    2 points
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