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Thanks for the pic. I am certain that if you identified this problem to Roy again, he would replace the defective part- again. I have used Barracuda products countless times and have always been thrilled with the quality, service and even the price. He could charge 25% more and I'd still buy everything he had for a specific build. Now that I think of it, maybe I got two good noses while you got two bad ones, because one of them was meant for you!? July 21/20 A quick update, but one covering all of Steps 21 to 27. Step 21 is the front radiator parts H9 and H43, while Step 22 is the rear rad parts H10 and H44: Assembly is straight forward, but fitting these parts into the narrowed nose is another matter. The front part H9 on the left needs to be sanded quite a bit to get it to fit, while the rear rad on the right needs some sanding, but less so. Interior parts of the Barracuda nose were ground down as well with many iterative dry fits. Don’t rush this, because you want a tight fit with no gaps later. Step 23 and Step 26 create the central intake ring with 3 different parts. These parts can be eliminated by using the Barracuda one piece resin part, which is much finer and accurate. Make sure you carefully follow the instructions so that you retain at least a mm of the ring at the rear, which fits into Part H43. This takes a bit of trimming of both parts to get them to mesh. Step 24 is very confusing. It looks like you glue together the assemblies in Step 21 and 22 together. Don’t do it! Instead, after trimming and painting the assemblies, you can glue the front radiator parts flush with the back of the intake. And the rear assembly to some tabs within the nose. Everything is only dry fit of course. The air ramp at the rear comes in two parts, E1 and E18 in Step 27. And after a little sanding and trimming, they click into grooves within the nose, resting against the rear rad. These parts do not fit each other at all, so I recommend you trim and dry fit them many times before committing to glue. It turns out all the panel lines and rivet detail are mostly correct, but I added the two small panel lines and rivets on part E1 (front of pic) as per references. After trimming and a little coaxing with masking tape, this assembly fits pretty good now, so once it is painted, I will glue everything together before attaching the nose to the fuselage. The last assembly as found above in Step 26 is the vent created with parts E2 and E3. This will also be glued later after painting. That’s it for a few more weeks boys. Enjoy the summer while it lasts! Cheers, Chuck

After my emergency gear-up landing back in 2018, the jet is back, fully operational, and has some new Garmin avionics. missed the old girl. cheers Pete

Hi LSP forum fans, I would like to share a few pictures of my F7F 3P Tigercat 1/32 by HpH Models. There is a gallery of the Tigercat build and also pictures of some of my other models on https://www.mhscalemodels.com/

Danke Freunde! Working on a few details prior to crossing the finish line with this G-14 build. The Barracuda resin prop blades have been mounted onto the spinner using Barracuda's jig (which is sold separately from the spinner kit). I've added some staining to the spinner. This aircraft did not have an antenna mast so I fashioned a small attachment point and glued it on the fuselage right behind the canopy. Based on this photo of Hartmann's machine. The spinner is a push-fit onto the fuselage and will be removable. Only a few more things on the checklist before she's finished: drop tank, pitot tube, whip antenna, IFF antenna, gun barrels, wing tip lights, aileron balancers and removing the canopy masks. Perhaps one more short update before I post the glamour shots on the RFI board.

A couple of people asked me what was next, after the double ‘Viper’ build. It’s been my intention to clear this from the shelf of doom for over 10 years. It’s been sat in the box with the Aires cockpit painted and installed, the nose section sealed up, and that was as far as I got about 6-7 years ago. Why I never got round to it? Who knows? I think it might have been the fear of the warped wings. Or the fact that I had to virtual sand all of the resin pit away until there was a paper thin amount of material to glue to the plastic. Either way, I took it down with the intention of doing a quick shake and bake job on it. Only the smallest amounts of filler have been used. Im left with the usual lumps and bumps to install, along with some G-Factor gear legs, doors, and some resin tail pipes. It’s been painted in the old school Ambush Aggressors markings, using AK real colour paints FS 35190/35450/36375 over a base coat of white, lots of panel line preshades, and tonal variations from painting individual panels lighter or darker than the colour coats. The markings come from the Fightertown Decal sheet. I’ve gone from unbuilt, unwanted, shelf dweller, to where I am now in the space of a couple of weeks. I want it finished within the next couple of three weeks. Where I’m at currently... And yes, I have a thing for colourful aggressor jets just lately. There’s too much grey in my display case at the moment.

Good morning all, Here is the renovation of my 9 year old Tamiya Sptifire !! Resumption of painting and weathering with oil paint and watercolor pencils. Cheers X15

Back at again... 'Lady in place again before closing up the fuselage. After a couple of days of sanding and putty'ing. The second hatch in the 'roof' The photo etched stitching in place with CA glue. Kent

A great walkaround of one of my fav planes. Thought I'd share. Very informative. Cheers Matty

Hi there, nothing really new to write about. But I made a new purchase that will be very helpfull. There are actuelly 1/32 Maurauder decals out there, even though there is no kit. The decals are part of this nice book: I ran across this when looking for reference about the A-26 Invader. However, only about 10 pages cover the invaders. The rest is all about the Marauder, with many photos, and some nice profiles. At the beginning of this project, I wanted to make this as a NMF aircraft with olive drab upper side and invasion stripes, as I find this scheme pretty cool. But as you know, a metal finish is very unforgiving concerning surface scratches. And since this is more or less a fully 3d printed model, to get a perfect metal finish would be pretty challenging. Therefore, a grey unter- and green upper-side scheme, ideally with invasion stripes, would be better to hide some imperfections And the decals sheet offer just this (sorry for the censorship, but I guess this is a family friendly site ) There is even a review of this book on LSP: https://www.largescaleplanes.com/reviews/review.php?rid=1298 Hi Bruce, this is rather unlikely at the moment. Let me first finish this project (what, if things go on as they are, should only last a few more hundred years ), and then we'll see. Cheers Alex

Using one of my diamond tipped screwdrivers, I've gouged the side armor in a somewhat arbitrary manner, as well as doing the "bouncing ball bit" trick, just to give the plate some character.

Looks like a great idea but, no...I mean yes I have one but I use it on my teeth...It just wouldn't taste right after having Tamiya filler on it. I do have whacks n whacks of sanding sticks though of all different sizes and shapes (made them myself from automotive body shop supply sanding discs) here's a kind of before/after thing; I didn't do behind the bomb bay, doubt much will be seen in there? Thanks for looking

Doing some maintenance: Found here: http://images.google.com/hosted/life/337c58626c73cfd6.html Click under Related images for more. Jari

I wanted to say I just picked this up from Sprue Brothers and it showed up today. WOW, is the only word needed to describe it. It is by far the best looking HUD I have seen the resin frames are so delicate and with the precut glass panels as well. It comes well packaged too. I hope you plan on expanding this line. I will buy them for all my large scale jets, US and Russian (hint,hint) It's part # FL32-2000 in case anyone is interested. I have no affiliation with the manufacturer. Nor is this a paid nonattorney spokesperson.

Hi all, The wash has been removed to leave a weathered coat, then sealed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311) lacquer. Also the elevator has been rigged (ailerons and rudder have no external control lines), Mike

Yes! The Hasegawa TA-4J...

And finally, here's an assembly of the Brassin Mk.II instrument panel: The parts are quite nice but actually depict a Mk.II rather than a Mk.I. I'm not fully sure regarding how looked the late Mk.I IP but as the Mk.II was initially characterized by the engine change I'm afraid the modification of the configuration of the bezels in the lower right side of the IP only appeared when the Mk.II was produced. It is really too bad nobody ever released a true Mk.I IP in 1/32. It exists in 1/24 (Airscale) and 1/48 (Eduard) but not in 1/32 whereas two 1/32 "Mk.I" kits have been released (Revell and Hasegawa)! I could have scratchbuilt a more accurate panel but I did not want to go there just after having done a fully scratched one for my MiG-27 kit! Fortunately, the differences are quite limited.

Hi everybody, here are a few pictures of my CURTIS F6C-4 1:32 by LUKGRAPH. If you would like to see pictures of the entire build, please check out my web https://www.mhscalemodels.com/

Hey guys, I would like to share a few pictures of my build of Messerschmitt BF 109E-7 TROP 1:32 by HGW Models. If you would like to see pictures of the entire build, please visit my web https://www.mhscalemodels.com

Hi all, I want to show you my recently finished F16 Sufa. A very nice kit to build, unfortunately I F23ked up the very last decal, being one of the big decals on the vertical stabilizer. But a replacement decal question on this forum all worked out. A big thanks to Peter Gregor, Kagemusha, Oeguy and Helmsman who all offered help! It is not one of my best builds (or photo's) but I am more than happy with the result. Unfortunately, a matte spot appeared on the canopy, I have no clue how it ended up there. Luckily it isn't visible from the position were it is parked! I hope you like it. With regards, Rob

Oh ya! What he said! now do a K-4?!

Damn that looks good John. Shouldn't expect any less from you, but this one really is great. Matt

A Super Guppy after a test flight: the story: http://airpigz.com/blog/2011/1/9/1965-super-guppy-dive-test-goes-bad-not-a-bird-strike.html Jari

Hi Thierry, you probably have this already but just in case this is from my Edgar file. https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234975928-spitfire-armor-plates-in-cockpit-shape-and-dimensions/ Genuine Mk.I Pilot's Notes are in the hen's teeth section; I got this from the National Archives, though the Mk.II is very similar. Items 1 are the pull-handles for the release cables to the parachute flare tubes; when they were deleted, the recognition device, with its cable replaced them. Cheers Dennis

And I also scratchbuilt the radiator lever that was actually located at the left of the seat. This is another feature alas forgotten in the Aires set.

As I'm waiting for the Haynes book, I went back to the wing guns heating outlets. The two pictures hereunder are showing the holes drilled in the wings. I'm still not fully convinced by what the TM view seems to indicate but without better references, I decided to replicate the drop-shaped holes. I decided I would not glue immediately the covers on them as this will probably be annoying when I will add the missing screw heads in the round panels located under the wing leading edge. Here's the small one: And the larger one: I already hesitated about opening the MG upper wing compartment doors and now I'm struggling against the idea to open the radio door...! I have to agree far more things I've built in the rear fuselage would be visible but I'm afraid this also means I should add more details in the rear of the starboard side of the fuselage!

That's a new development Paul, so it's confirmation that the Spey Phantom project remains alive. I just hope I am when it's released. Tony

I'm telling you, HKM.... There is a recent opening for a high quality manufacturer of WWI kits. Albatros D.III and Spad XIII. Two kits will take you from a manufacturer of costly oddballs into the halls of fame.

cool it is!

Filling in unwanted seams with Vallejo putty and sanding off injection marks. I removed the servo arms from the servos and made new servo covers that cover up the whole servo well. The control horns were removed with the help of some Bob Smith Un-Cure, then a new covers were installed. All covers made from 1mm styrene sheet. I can get this wing looking pretty good, but there is still an "alligator skin" texture to deal with. I'd rather not slather on thick coats of primer or sandable latex, but it may come to that - that would make the airplane a non-flyer.

Hello LSP and all funs of aircraft scale modeling, I have been watching and admiring all kinds of nicely built planes here on the LSP forum and so I decided to become a member as well :-) Thanks a lot LSP guys for letting me join your group. Here is a picture of my VOUGHT F4U-1A CORSAIR 1:32 by TAMIYA. If you would like to see more pictures or get more info of this model, please feel free to visit my web https://www.mhscalemodels.com

So after a few days of pondering I have decided to cut plastic. Here you can see that I have cut slots in the fuselage sides so that I can slip in the wings. Suffice to say this still will require tons of work to get it all level and square, but it gets my juices flowing for what is to come. The original wing root will have to be cut out and the engine nacelles lengthened but....... it is so cool. Dan

The tiny throttle… Tiny at 1/32! 3x5 mm

I'm not sure where I got the needle tool, but it's for scribing curves like circles and not punching rivets. The needle is super hard and never gets dull, so it must be an alloy of some kind and not ordinary steel. For riveting, I use an ordinary needle in a pin vice. The needle should be a bit wider than most with a taper that allows you to not only punch the hole, but adjust the width at the same time. ie: deeper is wider, if that makes sense. Cheers, Chuck

Hello, hot summer is growing and the modelling is slowing down... Here a little update, the cockpit and "hell hole" are glued inside the front fuselage section... not a difficult task. A "net" covers the "hell hole"... very little will be visible at the end. The external sides ha been putted and sanded to cover the sinking marks. To obtain a good alignment of all the parts that makes the front fuselage section, it is very important to fit this ring inside the front section. CIAO! Piero

Hi Julian, Feel free to print off the airfoil sections I posted earlier. If you use them to cut the shapes in something like 2mm sheet styrene you should have something you can then bend the wing around. You could then use brass rod through the centre section of the kit spar (with the outer sections that fit inside the wings removed). The cross section is correctable without altering the thrust line of the engines if you are careful and bond the formers at the leading edge first - give lots of time for the bond to fdry - and then bending the upper wing around the formers. You will need to remove/reduce a lot of the wing's internal structure as moulded. Would love to see some photos of your project! Iain

Terrific work, Kent! Kev

Back to the matter at hand... Inside about done... Kent

Hello all, I hope you all have been surviving lockdown by modelling-on.....I have. I set about Trumpeters P-47D bubble top version and I was pretty pleased with the kit, I have but the Razorback version and that game me a lot of issues, so this was a surprise and a pleasure. I attempted for the first time a natural metal finish (NMF), so I tried using extreme metal paint by AK and I found them very fragile and had to have a change of plan. I opted for the Mr metal colour paints by Gunze and these were fantastic and very durable when applied. I added a few aftermarket pieces, these were the resin wheels by Brassin and the gun barrels set from Master (32115) and I get rid of the metal seatbelts and made my own from masking tape as I can never get the photo etch belts to 'sit' right. Anyway, here she is...…..I give you Miss Fire which was piloted by Piot-Frederick Christensen in England 1944 All comments welcome :-)

Stumbling about on the web last night, I encountered this fascinating photo. While obviously not a Jagdtiger, several items are still of note; the spare (non Tiger) track links, stiffeners under the front and side fenders, known to be present, but seldom seen, as well as the completely filthy nature of the hull bottom. This photo gives me some ideas for my own lower hull.

Congratulations. Good feeling, I'm sure. So, what do your A.F. buddies say about you flying NAVY? With your Chronometer on your right wrist I can only suppose that you do all of that great modelling with your LEFT hand. If so, I'm in a lot more trouble than I thought. Good show, Pete. Sincerely, Mark

OK, its yours at $1856.00!!

With that sentence you are describing MRP lacquers. By far the most forgiving trouble and fuss free paint there is. No need to thin, just load and spray, no 'ifs' no 'buts'. For hand painting detail I use water based acrylics and for washes enamel. It all works together complementing each other.

'. . . attaching the main gear legs has popped all the seams on the leading edges of both wing and the seams for the outer portion of the wings.' Same thing happened to John (Thunnus) in his build. Those Tri-Master kits are a thing of beauty. Sincerely, Mark

Beautiful T-Bolt. Nice and clean surface. Perfect job. Congratulation

Completed the 1/32 Fisher kit of the F7U-3 Cutlass. More detailed modelling info on my webpages here: https://designer.home.xs4all.nl/models/f7u-cutlass-32/f7u-32-1.htm Meindert

Seats fitted to the floor, a passenger has found a seat... MiniArt 1/35 Auto Travellers 1930-40s Kent

The photo Lukasz provided of the seats inside of the 'Scottish' DH 89 is maybe closer to the answer to the color question... This is the 'Scottish' DH 89 G-AGJG before restoration, around 1974... Blue? So unless someone has photographic proof of a different seat color in the original DH 89's I think I will go with the light grey/black of the photo Lukasz supplied? Cheers: Kent

Sorry Jennings. I'm in Canada. They want us all nice and safe and wrapped in bubble wrap. Gunz Sangyo vanished from the shelves about 4-5 years ago. I still have some 70/71/65 and a couple other RLM colors but nothing for the later war paints.