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I've taken the B-17 off the wall and added the last few items to it. I wanted some dramatic blue skies pictures of it but the weather is either really windy or raining so, I took these (rather poor) pictures of the FINALLY FINISHED display. Granted the pictures are kind of crappy dark out of focus and with a horrible back drop. But, it's because the only room big enough to take pictures of this is my garage; Now I just have to hide it away somewhere until I can get it to a show...someplace. Thank you for looking

Hi folks Eric from Aircorps Aviation who restored the real Lopes Hope 3rd has been in touch asking for some pictures for the current owner – I thought as I had them, I might share them as I haven’t done an RFI post It’s not actually finished yet as I am waiting for the display case to be built so it can go in there dust free and safe, but there are only a few things to do like aerials, fix the canopy parts properly & detail them, and the drop tanks & mounts The final pic is with a US aircraft compass to give a sense of scale TTFN Peter

fist pic is up for the viggen its the bang seat and still in design fase Will try to update this when more pics will come online For me it already looks good Mark

Following is my recently completed Bf109 E-4 representing a I/JG27 aircraft. It is one of my contributions in the Battle of Britain Group Build and you can see both the build log and more photos in that thread. I opted to show the aircraft as moderately worn and the simple diorama attempts to tell the story of a pilot preparing for yet another sortie over England. The kit is a DLM offering and I built the model mostly OOB, only using HGW seatbelts, a Henri Dähne prop and some AM decals, both the wet transfer type and the normal type. I also did some very limited scratchbuilding in the cockpit, the antenna and (because I was forced to) one of the wheel well canvas covers. Ernest

This is the cockpit "module", almost completely assembled and ready to install into the fuselage. The one small holdup is the one fit that I didn't pre-check three times, and a word to the wise if you are planning on building this kit. The interface between the tabs on the top of the ammo magazine and the recesses on the bottoms of the MGs is too tight, and does not let the MGs sit level. Since these protrude out of the cowl their alignment is obviously critical. This would have been easier to solve if I had known about it before getting to this stage. Going to fix it tomorrow when I'm fresh (another lesson I've learned).

Hi everyone I've been a bit quite on the forums lately and that's because I've been spending more time building and less time writing. I had to take a break from the relentless detailing of the Star Destroyer (which I will go back to because I want to see it done), and so for the past month or so, I have been away quietly building my 48th scale 199 Eagle. I've long loved the design of this ship and have dreamed of having a kit of this as a boy when I saw it in an old Airfix catalogue but just never bought one until a couple of years back when I saw one of these going relatively cheaply instead I clearly grabbed one. Naturally, me being me, I also was never going to paint it like the show. Then I saw The Admiral's build (http://resinilluminati.com/showthread.php?t=17378 ) and it's inspiration from him that got me going on mine. So I naturally borrowed/stole his cockpit idea and subsequently made my own poorer copy. However, it reinforced my previous desire for a non standard white Eagle, so I came up with the most obvious option: paint it in black! Everything looks good in black right?! Painted in Tamiya NATO Black, flat black and German grey and something else to. The engine stuff is all painted in bare metal just because I thought it would look cool. That general concept is prevalent throughout this whole build really I'm going to blow my own horn here and state that I am super happy with how this came out. Yes - after taking the photos I realised that there are some paint issues to fix that have alluded me prior to now but they are easily fixed and TBH, I'm not going to take another series of shots to show them fixed. It's been hard enough to get enough light to take even these pictures. Love Melbourne weather! At any rate, you'll get the idea from the following pics and this is my rudimentary cockpit which I shamelessly stole from Bill. Thanks again mate!! I can't paint faces to save myself, so I sprayed shaped pieces of masking tape silver followed by clear red and a mist of clear orange. It looks much better to me The screens behind them are decals which I cut up and stuck onto the back wall with a hole behind it where fiber optic stubs had been inserted into the side panels - all lit by a single SMD each side. The red cockpit glow is a standard but sanded 5mm LED. It looks good against the black. Well, that was a fun build in so far as that I didn't have to make details for anything. Like I said, I'm super happy with this. I think it looks seriously cool, but that's just me Anyways, thanks for stopping by and having a look. Si

Hello, a little update here. The cockpit's side walls are done. Interesting, the right one is almost black... For the IP I've used the colored PE parts from Eduard set. Side consoles with switchs and knobs are kit's part brush painted. Here the "hell hole" parts painted too. Finally, the front wheel-bay parts ready to be glued. CIAO! Piero

Started making a little more progress on the G-14 since my other builds are waiting for items stuck in the postal system. The resin exhaust pipes have been painted.

Hi all, I want to show you my recently finished F16 Sufa. A very nice kit to build, unfortunately I F23ked up the very last decal, being one of the big decals on the vertical stabilizer. But a replacement decal question on this forum all worked out. A big thanks to Peter Gregor, Kagemusha, Oeguy and Helmsman who all offered help! It is not one of my best builds (or photo's) but I am more than happy with the result. Unfortunately, a matte spot appeared on the canopy, I have no clue how it ended up there. Luckily it isn't visible from the position were it is parked! I hope you like it. With regards, Rob

My opening line of my last update almost became famous last words. During the build of the left side cockpit wall, I almost put this back on the shelf of doom, such was the grief caused by the throttle quadrant. So I walked away from it, then went on a holiday for two weeks and I'm back into it again. This isn't going to be a quick a build as my previous three Russian jobs. I had actually started the cockpit back in 2016. Here is as far as I got back then. The green paint on the front wall is just me experimenting with colours. Here's the major components finally completed last week. After some research, I decided to go with green zinc chromate as being more appropriate to the plane I'm building. The throttle quadrant was the hold up as this took many goes at it before it would finally stay together. Close ups: Next, I started assembly, gluing the right side and rear wall to the floor. I also added a length of 0.3mm wire for the tail wheel lock operating rod, though the map box got in the way a little. The next step was to add the seat. Here's the progress shots of that. Once again, I had troubles with the seat belts, so please excuse any deficiencies there. Definitely not my thing Then the left side was added, together with the control stick and instrument panel/rudder pedals assembly. Lots of photo etch on both the IP and rudder pedals. The instrument faces were enhanced with a drop of clear gloss to give the appearance of glass. The gun sight and cockpit coaming have not been built yet. I plan on doing them later and adding the windshield straight after to protect the gun sight. As you can see, I've also painted the exterior of the cockpit tub as this will be visible through the access panels I've cut into each side of the fuselage. I have no idea whether any of this or the turbo ducting will be visible, but it's part of the kit so I'll give it a shot. Since I've cut a panel out of each side, sufficient light may get through to make it worthwhile. I'm hopeful I'll get the fuselage together soon, so we'll know then. But at least I have the photos . Here's the cockpit mounted in the engine/turbo ducting assembly, finished yesterday. I may add some wiring to the outside of the cockpit tub as I think this will be visible through the left side access panel I've cut from the fuselage half. Here's a shot of that together with the repairs I've made to all the access panels and engine cowlings after I hacked them off the original fuselage parts. Thankfully I made a better job of the right side. So my next job is to spray the inside of the fuselage and wings etc with yellow chromate, add in the aforementioned wiring and perhaps see about making the canopy slide. Then I can glue the fuselage halves together and I'll begin to have something that looks like a plane. Cheers, Michael

I tried to compose the following macro shots of areas folks might be interested in. Hope you like them! Ernest The worst of the macro photos, but it shows the completed oil staining of the bottom. Some dings and chip on the prop assembly. Antenna showing the tensioning spring, insulator and the little cone shaped wind deflector, which I still have not found a good way to replicate. This time I used some of the thin metal that covers some wine and champagne bottles. Better than my previous efforts but still not as good as I want it to be. I scratched the canopy retaining strap as the PE part supplied was too flat. The HGW wet transfers (the 3) do look darn good, though the decal cross was not one of my better efforts.

I usually use a scriber down the major panel lines to clean the wash out, but leave the rest as is. It's thin enough, that paint build-up is minimal. Depending on the cover color, the dark accents often show through, much like pre-shading. Example on my A-10C. First coat of paint with no subsequent dark wash. Cheers, Chuck

Thanks for that feedback guys. I just KNEW this method was catching on! I looked back on my builds and I first started to use it on my Trumpeter A-10C in 2014 quite by accident. As most of you know, this kit is a turd that needs a lot of polishing and after many modifications to panel lines, many of which were filled with CA glue, I wanted to show what the final result looked like on the nose of the model before paint. The Tamiya Panel Line Accent (TPLA) washes had just come out and I had bought a variety of them, so I gave the Black a whirl on the bare plastic. It showed the modifications really clearly, but it also showed a number of slip-ups with my scriber and other flaws that were completely invisible to the naked eye. Applying the dark wash to other areas, I found many other boo-boos, which were easily fixed for the most part and much easier than they would have been after paint. I was onto something, so I have used this method ever since. The TPLA washes are super thin and pigment heavy, so they flow within panel lines via capillary action without the need to use a lot of wash. After using the Black version on 6 models, I still have 1/2 of a bottle left. Here's another example on my Tamiya F-15C build, where the wing to fuselage join is famous for poor fit. With a dark wash applied, the new rivet and panel line detail is revealed, while deleted features (with CA glue applied) don't pick up the wash. If they did (and they do often), I fix them early. Note the small access door on the right that was deleted, which is correct for F-15E's, but not "C's". One more, of the heavily modified vertical stabilizers. 90+% of the builds of this kit leave the kit join as is, which is wrong. You can see the legacy join filled with CA glue, then sanded smooth. If there were any flaws, the dark wash would pick it up. Cheers, Chuck

OK, the prop governor (Hamilton Standard 4G10 series) . Amazingly little technical data around, although I found a manual with parts lists for Hamilton Standard constant speed prop governors at Aircorps Library. It has pictures like this: Note the big pulley wheel - that is meant to be rotated by a cable attachment emanating from the cockpit, and it changes prop pitch depending on the rotation. The manual speaks of single capacity and double capacity governors, which look a bit different. Also there is a variety of bases that the governor is mounted on. Lastly it appears that certain layers of the governor can be turned 90 deg or 180 deg to help with the integration with the engine. All of this served to confuse the issue of what this thing looks like for Corsairs. The propeller installation drawing VS-10375 offered even more confusion by showing two different versions of the governor control - one the pulley wheel that is commonly seen: And two - a bracket and linkage arrangement (no wheel): I could not find any point in the production run where the wheel arrangement took over, so I went to work looking at wartime pictures. I have concluded that F4U-1's and 1A's had the linkage arrangement, and the wheel arrangement came a little later perhaps with the paddle bladed propeller or the pressurized ignition. The F4U-1D has all that stuff, and I am making a 1A. So my engine gets the linkage. Here is a shot of the PITA prop governor, ready to be mounted onto the engine nose: And on the engine: And with the little bracket assembly (the linkage comes later): Pan back and you see the full engine in its current state of completion - it is basically fully complete all the way back to the supercharger sections aft of the cylinders. Now, I believe I will start looking at the exhaust collectors. Here is a picture of them from the parts catalog: Talk about hand wringing. The Vought drawing is very good, fully defining the pipes and their curves and shapes. I will make the pipes from the .125 inch diameter silver solder I have used before. Outside of that I just do not yet have a plan for how to accurately produce these. Wish me luck.

I think we're at about the halfway point for this beast, primer work on the main body is finally complete, minus one or two areas that will need brush application. If only primer black was an official USN color, I like it this way! Decals have also been ordered, so I'll give them a couple of weeks to make it across the pond. There are a few spots on the nose gear that will need to be re-shot with white, do to overspray when doing the primer, but I figure I can do that after putting the main color on, rather than fix them now just to have to spray them again when I put the gray on. Besides, makes it look like a realistic shadow, in my eyes anyway. As always, thanks for stopping by the hangar!

Thanks very much guys. No building today but just for S&G's I dry-fitted one of the nacelles to the wing. Perfect fit, no need for any putty and if I was inclined, I could probably skip gluing it and it would lock firmly in place. Wheelwells are an area that most kit makers skimp on. To their credit, Tamiya did a fantastic job. Between the PE ribs and the smaller detail parts, they are pretty much 75% of the real thing, which says a great deal about the quality of this kit. Many other manufacturers give you a rectangular box with nothing but a few semi-defined shapes molded in place. I've still got some additional bits to add but I really like they way they look. If I get close enough, I think I can catch a wiff of avgas and motor oil! Notice how the gear door retraction springs anchor to the rear wing spar. The gap aft of the spar is per the real thing. And a view of the upper surface. Just note - this is the un-detailed engine that will have the cowling panels glued in place. The other engine has the additional parts added to it. I'm glad I opted to leave one engine exposed, it would be a shame to cover all this great detail. That's it for tonight, thanks for looking!

Thanks guys! That's too bad! The low speed router is REALLY handy! Amazing that the reduced RPM range and the form factor (much smaller) makes the tool that much more usable. I now feel comfortable using the D300 to help bore out exhaust tips, which is something I would NEVER consider with my other router. Thanks Mike! Nope, I dug into my spares and added a few stencils on the gun sight for visual interest. The fuselage/tail joint has been cleaned up and given a light coat of primer. Still waiting for the new rivet tool to arrive. The tail wheel, which is a single piece and features a really tiny tire, has been painted similar to the main landing gear legs. I've added some wiring to the cockpit components Still waiting for the cockpit paint to arrive. These shipping delays are very frustrating. I'm pretty much at a stopping stage on this build and have gone about as far as I can with the cockpit. I'm tempted to just start painting the cockpit using Tamiya Khaki XF-49. It's hard to say just looking at computer images but it seems to be a decent match to the Kawanishi Cockpit Green that I'm waiting for.

Hi guys, I am going to post better photos broken down into three posts. The first will show some medium distance overall shots. The second will be some macro shots highlighting some details. Finally, I will post a series of photos in which I attempt to tell the story of a pilot preparing for a sortie helped by one of his ground crewman. Ernest Up next some macros!

Thanks Guys! I have closed and finished off the front fuselage halves, using my usual technique of using Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color in Black to check for flaws. After sanding, every panel line was re-scribed and just about every rivet was re-punched, so there's a high chance of slip-ups that could be revealed after the first coat of paint. By adding a dark wash now, these flaws can be seen and fixed easily, so I now hardly ever have to fix something after painting which can be a real pain. After sealing up the front fuselage, I found plenty of little slip-ups here and there and for the most part, they are all fixed now. I notice quite a few other modelers using this method recently, so maybe I started something? The dark wash would ooze into tiny cracks that would otherwise be invisible to the naked eye. There were a few, which I have now fixed. Note there are no gaps around the rear landing gear well, due to the modifications I did above. This kit has lots of fine rivet and panel line detail, but not all of it is very clear. Re-doing much of it brings it back to life. In a month or two, it should look a bit like my last model of the Kitty Hawk Harvard below, which had a very smooth and glossy yellow finish. With a big investment in early flaw detection, it paid dividends later with yellow paint that was hard to touch-up. With a weathered camo-finish, this model should be even easier to eliminate surface flaws. I'll be gone again for a few weeks, so no more modeling until I return. Thanks for checking in. Cheers, Chuck

I have reprised a scheme I did before back in 2013. These are Pheon decals, a Rexx exhaust, Roden Spinner and Gaspatch/Bob Turnbuckles. The colours are all DB lacquers with the RAF roundel blue as the Bavarian blue. Figures are CSM and Elan 13. Polak Meadow grass base.

So this guessing/wishing can go forever... If we could narrow the subjects down to what would be inside the range we have seen from HKM it would be less of a shooting gallery in all directions. A non esoteric, multi engine WWII popular subject - not a B-26 or Ju 52... maybe B-29... DC-3/C-47 seems to be a popular choise for many, would fit the 'simplified' hint, if considering not stepping on HPH's toes? It would be nice if Neil would give us a little hint, or even a clue to solving the mystery...

Amazingly enough (Tamiya!) that complex cockpit assembly slips right into the dry-fit fuselage, exactly as advertised. This is great news because it means I can do a bunch of other things like getting the cockpit decking painted, canopy future-d, masked, installed, gunsight, paint the machine gun recesses in the fuselage, etc BEFORE I put the cockpit in, eliminating the chance of damage, overspray, etc. It fits so snugly it probably doesn't even need to be glued. But I'll put a couple dabs of CA somewhere just to be sure it doesn't get tweaked by some later step.

Kent, I've tried to search Flickr for you. No luck with the interior. But... David Whitworth has two interesting albums: DH.89A DRAGON RAPIDE G-AGJG DE HAVILLAND He is also visiting Duxford on daily basis, so may be it's worth to ask him for a few pictures. He's a nice chap. Although I'm not sure Duxford is opened these days. And here are some more pictures that might be useful: Juraj

And this is another one - MODEL KIT No 32052 (the one above is numbered as 32050): www.icm.com.ua/news - Stearman PT-13/N2S-2/5 Kaydet, American Training Aircraft What are the differences besides the engine? Juraj

This final series of photos is where I try to tell the story of a pilot preparing for a sortie assisted by one of his groundcrew. Let's see how well I can bring this off. Early on a late August morning an anonymous pilot of I/JG 27 prepares for a sortie over England. Tension clearly shows on his downturned face as he contemplates yet another mission over England. His faithful ground crewman's face also shows the strain of continued operations. At their feet is the pilot's flight kit bag. Will he return to reclaim it, or will it's contents be a reminder of another lost eagle? Both concentrate on the final task of ensuring the life saving parachute is properly prepared. As they near the completion of final preparations a ground mist begins to rise, perhaps a foreboding sign of what is to come?

as postedon ICM website superb can't wait boxart and 3d renders jan

Man, that Viggen will be on my "eager to want" list, such an impressive aircraft and design (at that time).

Hi Malcom, glad that you like it enough to stall your build I'm sure you'll enjoy the resin parts. Thanks Alain I made the mold for the nose, and cast the first one. Did a test fit, and it seems okay. The Italeri kit's forward fuselage is not glued together yet but taped together. So, it's a bit wobbly, but good enough for this purpose. Cheers, John

Small progress. I have been adding small details and getting a flat finish on the model. In an attempt to add some visual interest I have taped over some panel lines and then sprayed the clear flat. Hopefully when I remove the tape strips there will be some panel line "augmentation". I am not sure if this will work, but if it looks too strange I can just apply another flat coat. Later.... Dan

I see no pictures, just a large blank block with a random collection of alphanumeric characters in the upper left corner.

No love for the Martin B-10B? or a Y1B-17B in camouflage multi-colors? Unfortunately nearly as likely as a Savoia Marchetti SM.55 or a Curtiss Shrike series including the A-8 to A-12 plus an Airacuda. That would be surprising, but one or two of us would be very happy. It sure is fun to engage in speculation without limits. It is good to see some people still trying to bring out new kits. Thank you to Neil and company for that and good luck. But Santa, I still want a Shrike and an SBC-3/4 and a.... (not a football or even a Red RIder BB gun with a compass in the stock). Tnarg

Looks like I won't have to because... Guess what came in the mail yesterday! I was plowing ahead with work on the engines since the missing paints are necessary. Actual color of the paint is very different from the Tamiya Khaki... it's more of a chromate green. I need to test to see if I can do hairspray chipping with these Lacquer paints. If not, I may use them as a base to mix using Tamiya and Mr Hobby Aqueous colors. I've prepared the engine to accommodate some wiring.

Aftermarket exhaust - nice details, good quality: Minor imperfection: Comparison kits nozzle vs Aires: Anyway, I've got cockpit to do. Nice crisp details: And few hours later: In the meantime, I'm preparing place for cockit. Big plus to Tamiya fo providing nose weight: Gluing also, rear part of fuselage and bottom part of wings, lucky fit is very good so no putty required: . I've recently bought some real colors paints, and since I have a lot of Tamiya paints on rack and no place for new, I had to figure out how to store another few (dozens) of jars. I decided to keep them on rotary stand. It is designed to fit my shelves system - similar to hobbyzone but bigger 20x20x40cm (8"x8"x16"). This is first layer for 12-18 jars, there will be 3 layers and 2 stands in shelf so in total it can hold 108 jars:

Another try. I hope this helps a little: DH-89 "Dragon Rapide" serial R5922 restoration Some more pictures here: www.google.com - DH-89 "Dragon Rapide" And this one might be useful as well: Juraj

So the biggest outward difference between the -2 and -3/4 is the panel immediately aft of the firewall on both sides. Since I couldn't engrave a straight line to save my soul, I decided to over-skin the section with thin plastic card stock. Here they are in place. I still have to thin them down some around the edges, but I think it's a fair start.

Apart from making bases, stands, and a few weapons, I’m calling time on these Vipers. There’ll be a bunch of photo’s when they’re on stands, and I have a plain backdrop to shoot against. They’ve been great fun to paint (even with the headaches and dramas), and I LOVE how the two schemes have finally turned out. I can’t wait to see them posed dynamically. More pic’s when they’re posted in RFI.

Hmmm a Beaufighter........

sprues design

Thanks! I'm going to duplicate it in resin, so it will be available for you. Regards, Alex

The build is complete. All in all it was an enjoyable build and the final result was decent. I did not add very much scratchbuilding; a couple of O2 lines in the pit, the canvas cover in one of the wheel wells, and some minor stuff on the aerial. The camo turned out well, especially the mottling that has a nice toned down look to it. The weathering, while not perfect, is viewable. The figures turned out very well and I think they are perfect for telling the story of a pilot prepping for a mission. I took some quick photos with a basic photography setup on my bench. I will get the photo tent, lights, etc setup tonight and shot some better photos to include a few "scene setting" type shots. I will be starting the Mark I Hurricane tomorrow and plan to make it the ying to this build's yang - i.e. I plan to show it returning from a sortie. Ernest A few shots of the base under construction, such as it is. Airfield scenes are about as easy as it gets when it comes to diorama bases. I added a bit of bushy grass and some natural ground debris; the purpose being to suggest a tree line just off the base. Ugh, white balance is a bit off on this one. More to follow!

Yes, yes, I know that there is Tamiya's one the best. But this old model had been put onto the bench when I and my friends decided to organize local group build with the slogan: "Building kits older then their owners")) So, I blew a dust from the box and started. I decided not to dive into extensive and expensive way of total correction and make it for fun BUT... I've already had Verlinden cockpit and two old Eduard sets need to be deployed. Just one thing bothered me yet - an ENGINE. If overall exterior is simple but pretty decent, the engine is just ugly. I had pair of Quickboost R-2800 but they didn't fit big Revell cowling, just hanging out inside and moreover didn't resemble particular engine model in details. Finally I decided to make my own "quickboost" using 3D and futher aim to adapt it to different models uncluding other scales, for example 1/48 Corsair and bunch of old Monogram bombers and, of coouurrse 1/24 P-47D)) As for this Corsair plan, it will be one of VF-17 (likely "Chico" Freeman plane) in flight configuration (not to build undercarriage). So, the progress in the pictures below. Engine itself consist of three large parts (crankcase, first and second rows) and three small (magneto, airscrew governor and oil pump). Backplate is separate part just for Revell Corsair to adapt engine to the model.

Hi friends, my next scratch work is done - Air Force APA-5D based at Ural truck. The model is 1/35 scale from old Alanger, repacked by Revell. I do not like the HAD conversion for this machine, so scratched my own: As always thanks for stopping by Hope you will like it. Cheers friends.

Very old 1974 TOMY kit plus MDC conversion color AK Real color , Gunze C, Yahu Instrument panel homemade mask - drawn in corel draw, mask which was edited and carved on plotter by my friend Pavel Shortland floatplane base, Solomons Islands, February 1943, flown by Lt. Keizo Yamazaki

The "fourth" aircraft is "Red 3" Jerry Crandall has it covered in his books "Doras of the Galland Circus" and "Focke Wulf FW 190 Dora Vol 2". This was also included in the Eagle Editions decal sheet: http://www.eagle-editions.com/eaglecals-14-32-fw-190-doras-jv-44.html HTH ] Radu

Really nice work. This is one of the kits I hope they move over to their new injection moulded kit line.

From the sound of it, there is no influencing possible. The kit is ready for release. We get what we get. The only certainty is that some will be happy, others will not be, and life will move on.

Then, I went back to the rear flap. First, I thinned the rear edges before making a round notch with a file in the port side. The notch is actually corresponding to the heating duct they added. Then, I added a reinforcing strip and two strengthening arms linking the main sheet and the sides. The last item to add was the actuating arm. It is required to dry fit a lot of times to be sure all the parts will join correctly when the final radiator assembly will be done after painting. You can see here the actuating part of the arm glued on the wall: Here's an assembly attempt intended to ensure everything will be correctly aligned: And this one is showing the arm with its actuating part: I did not really detail the actuating part of the flap arm as this will be close to totally invisible. The rear end is now finished up to the final assembly of that section. A row of screw heads is very visible close to the end of the ramp but there is no way to add it now without damaging it later.

Looking like good addition to the story from “The English Patient” http://www.icm.com.ua/news/668-us-wasp-1943-1945-3-figures-100-new-molds.html