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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/30/2020 in all areas

  1. Oh, go on then, Gold Star for Derek! Yes - with my fresh supply of 1.5mm clear HIPS sheet I thought I'd take a break from sanding/cutting/reinforcing big chunks of ABS and have a play with a glazing - to see if this particular cunning plan was going to work. I'll let you guys be the judge by the end of this post. The quality of clear parts can make, or break, a model and so I usually spend a lot of time on a project trying to get these as good as I can get them. I try to use the most suitable material for any given purpose. The fuselage windows I'm going to do as a single strip each side - so wanted a clear, non-yellowing, plastic that would easily conform to the single curve of the fuselage - and gould be glued to the ABS fuselage prints with solvent. So - 0.25mm UV Stabilised PETG sheet will be used. For the cockpit windows I wanted something absolutely flat and distortion free - and something I could use wet and dry followed by polishing with Novus Plastic Polish. PETG doesn't like sanding/polishing at all - but HIPS does - and at 1.5 mm thick substantial enough for shaping and to hold it's flat shape on fitment. Add to that the trick of 'edging' the clear part with a permanent marker that I've been using for years to make neat edges, as well as create the impression of thinner 'glass', I thought I might have the tools to make a go of these. Tonight I cut the first window: An oversize section was laid over the window aperture and the edges marked on the surface with a new scalpel blade. The section was then trimmed back using Tamiya side-cutters to within about 1mm - then the edges taken back with the T-Bar sander - bit by bit, with lots of trial and error - as well as corner rounding, until it fitted absobl**dy perfectly - even if I do say so myself! Here it is just press fitted in position - took about an hour - but hopefully looks OK! Final bonding will be with a little solvent touched into the corners and into the joint - followed by a polish. So, I think there's another challenge sorted, perhaps... Iain
    13 points
  2. Hello After KH Miragge 2000, I decided to go back in time with this Mirage IIIc from Italeri I built the IIIe version some times ago and I new what to expect: kit is rather good but there are few shortcomings. Notably the nose cone adjustment: it is wider than the fuselage so sanding and putty are in order. Then the fairing round the exhaust and the vertical tail plan are quite tricky due to very small contact surfaces with the fuselage parts (especially for the fairing, if the photoetch frame is not presicely installed, there is no contact surface anymore. After several dry fit tests, I decided not to follow the sequence of steps from the instructions. Some addons I used: Pitot from Masters PE from Eduard for the seat and cockpit panels Resin wheels from reskit The squadron insigna is from an old Berna decal sheet for a 1/48 Super Mystere B2 if I remember well. It happens that it is nearly the right size for the 1/32 Mirage IIIc. Lucky me. Handbrush painting as usual : Humbrol 230 "pru Blue" for the top. For the lower part and the fuel tank, I tried vallejo metal colors. I must say I love them. I found by chance a video on YT (dogma72 - Brushing Vallejo Metal Color) showing how to brush them. It is a bit unatural way of working but it worked well: in fact you dry brush them. I put a layer of vallejo black primer then I used a large square brush, with nearly no paint on it and brush the surface. I did 3 or 4 layer, waiting overnight between each. Result is to my opinion close to what you could have with an airbrush. Not brush marks. Pigments are much thinner than the Humbrol Metal cote and the range of colors is wide. I used aluminum 701 and for some parts pale burnt aluminum 704 (it is not really visible on the photos due to lighting conditions). I also used jet exhause 713 for the stove pipe I had a lot of fun with this kit. A pair of French Deltas
    9 points
  3. I put the new H&S airbrush through it’s paces using the 1.5mm nozzle combo’. With a little patience, re-use of the masks to sharpen a few edges up, and a steady hand, I’ve gone from the peeled mess that was... To where I’m at in the top photo, a world of difference which makes me mucho happy. No threat of stripping to plastic. The gaps where then CFTs meet the fuselage will have a tiny bead of filler to make It look like the rubber seal. I’m now waiting on some oramask 810 sheet to create a set of masks for the blue sections of the flag so I’m able to tighten up the white parts and cover overspray.
    8 points
  4. Little time, but I made some progress. I removed the gunsight which I will re-add after the windscreen is in place. The transarencies have been painted on the inside. All the panel lines that suffered from sanding have been restored, mostly using a micro saw. I'd say with about 90% success rate While building this my admiration for the advanced yet simple design and good looks of the little Spatz has grown considerably. The same goes for Revell, due to the design, exceptional detail (matching the simplicity of the design), and fit of the kit itself. The wheel and gun bay are complete and painted. The wheel bay is weathered, still have to start on the gun bay. The protruding guns will be made from brass rod. Cheers!
    7 points
  5. The wings are on, all looks pretty good......I can't swear that the anhedral is exactly 5 deg. but there is anhedral and it looks right-ish so that's OK. I ran a bead of Milliput along the wing/fuselage gap, though I've seen worse on IM kits, so well done Echelon! I think, after the tail plane is fitted, a coat of primer might be in order before I start addressing all the other lumps n' bumps!
    7 points
  6. HL-10

    Avro Shackleton MR3

    And now for something completely different! Revell's 1/72nd scale Shackleton MR3 is a lovely kit. Very well engineered. No fit problems at all! Surface detail is very fine and nicely done. Has the option of a Phase 2 or 3 variant, with the Viper jet engines. I don't usually do 72nd, but this kit was an absolute joy to build. Painted with Tamiya acrylics. Thanks for looking Angelo.
    6 points
  7. another sprue pic https://www.facebook.com/pg/artscale.eu/posts/?ref=page_internal
    6 points
  8. Some more interior work... Thanks for looking: Kent
    6 points
  9. One of the most interesting airplanes for people who like strong weathering. F-4E Phantom II Hellenic Air Force Tamiya 1:32, model made of course straight from the box so it may not be an ideal reproduction of the F-4E HAF. The Tamiya set is probably well known to everyone. In short it's realy good set. Greek planes can be very heavily exploited, which makes them a great material for modelers.
    5 points
  10. This is by far the most complete/complex model kit I've ever seen, and the polar opposite of the approximate fit / approximate instructions Special Hobby Ki-27 "Nate" that I just finished. This large box: Contains six large and another half-dozen small sprues of parts: And a bunch of ancillary parts and pieces: I bought the Eduard canopy masks for it because the Tamiya-supplied ones are just printed on a sheet of tape - you have to cut them out on the printed lines. I figure that I'll use the die-cut Eduard ones on the outside of the canopy and then cut the Tamiya sheet just a hair small and use it to mask the inside. The kit also includes a bunch of features that I don't particularly want - landing gear that retract, movable control surfaces, etc, with elaborate spring systems to help move the gear. I am going to build these per the instructions, because I suspect that any deviation might make it difficult to get the parts attached strongly and in the right alignment. Then I'll glue them in place at the end of the process. This is an intimidating subject to approach - the Zero is such a cult airplane, and there has been SO much research done on it that it's effectively impossible to build it as "right" as someone out there has figured out how to do. Even with the impressive level of detail that this kit embodies, there are pages-long articles on how to fix its many minuscule errors, as well as a very impressive writeup on LSP about how to rework this kit as a Nakajima- rather than Mitsubishi-built Zero. I'm not saying this one will be strictly OOB, but I'll restrict myself I think to adding things in the cockpit that are missing like wires and conduit. While I plan to paint on all of the national and unit insignia, the kit also has an extremely complete set of stencil decals that should really help the wow factor of the final product. The quality and detail in the moldings is beyond anything I have ever seen in another kit. I tried to capture this in the shot below - the super-fine rivet lines that follow all of the internal ribs (which the truly obsessive tend to hand-apply in other kits) are molded in. Also, the plastic is impressively thin and super-crisp - no sign of obvious out-of-scale thick edges to parts. The kit provides seven (!) schemes to choose from, all planes from the carrier groups that attacked Pearl Harbor. The scheme on the box lid, a plane from Akagi, looks too much like the Nate I just built with the horizontal yellow stripes on the tail. I'm leading towards scheme D (lower left) flown by a Lt. Iida from the Soryu. I'll need to whip up the right shade of blue; based on the color of the decals they supplied, the KLM Blue enamel I already have, with just a touch of Royal Blue added, should do the trick. The kit instructions actually have you assemble the fuselage sides together first since, like the Hasegawa Shiden-Kai that a couple of folks are building now, the cockpit assembly can be inserted from below into the finished fuselage. I'm cleaning up cockpit parts and getting ready for some painting, but am not going to go too far down the road of assembly yet. I ordered a copy of the Aero Detail book on the Zero, and I want to wait until it arrives to figure out what I want to do vis a vis adding plumbing detail to the cockpit.
    5 points
  11. Hello Not a LSP, but a large model. I wanted to build a Caravelle for a long time. But not just any Caravelle. This particular one, msn 12, F-BHRF christen Auvergne This one was exposed for many years at the entrance of the airport of my home town. As a kid, I always was fascinated by the "huge" (Huge is a matter of perspective... but as a kid, it was hude to me) plane parked there, on the side of the road. Then when, as a teen, I started flying gliders there, we use to spend some evening on board with the friends from the flying club. Some even slept on its wings... It was unfortunatly scrapped in 2006. Anyway, enough with the nostalgia.... All Caravelle kits are quite old and they all have their issues, some worse than others. Mach2 is a French short run brand. It is known for producing subjects that are definitely not mainstream. It is also known for the "limited" quality of its kit. I knew the Mach 2 kit would be a challenge but having built several fonderie miniature kits (another French short run brand known for its bad moulding and hard fitting) , I was not afraid..... Well.... I was in for an adventure... It is probably the worse kit I ever built... I had already decided not to use the "clear" parts, which are clear only by name. This turned out to be a great decision. Then I got rid of all the interior stuff... anyway there is nothing to see because ref previous line... The wheels: directly in the bin as well. The two parts of the mould were not aligned, I let you imagine the shape of the wheels... I replaced them with 1/48 Mirage F1 wheels for the MLGs and 1/48 NLG wheels from an F-100 for the NLG. Not the most accurate but who cares, it cannot be worse than the kit "things". I also replaced the engine exhaust by Whirlybird resin exhaust initially planned for the DH Comet. Now the funny part: wing to fuselage assembly. I quickly realised that this would be an adventure in itself: the wing sweep between the upper and lower parts was not the same by a significant margin. Sometimes on some kits, you need a bit of surgey to assemble parts. Here it was butchery. I reworked the complete wing root with a dremel and a miller (not sure of the english term, it is not a drill, it is the tool used to machine metal parts if you see what I mean) I think I never had to remove so much plastic to fit parts. Then, a truckload of putty here and there and I could finaly start painting. Humbrol 147 for the lower fuselage and the wing/horizontal stabilizer walk ways hu metal cote for the rest of the wing For the white on upper fuselage, I sprayed Tamyia true white TS-26. I could not imagine all this white area with an handbrush. Orange and dayglow for the wingtips. The decals: another adventure. I ordered them from F-Decals, a french brand producing a wide range of airliners decals. I must say that was a bumpy road as it took him 4 months to send them. And having exchanged with others on French forum, that's not only due to the covid mess and lock down. No answer to the numerous reminders. the only two emails I received were to tell me the decal sheets would be sent the next monday, which never happened. I ended up opening a claim with paypal. and then by miracle, 3 days after I received the decal sheets, but not excuse, no message, nothing which is a realy shame because those decals are real nice and good quality. I also used windows and windshiled decal sheet from Authentic airliners. I think they add a touch of realism compared to the usual grey windows we see on mist airliner kits. Here is the result:
    5 points
  12. rsanz

    1/32 Fokker Dr.I from Meng

    Fokker Dr.I photos are still up.on the website......they're just hidden/not indexed. http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/productdetail?productid=3203&cat=1 http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/productdetail?productid=3205&cat=1
    5 points
  13. My bench is a bit messy again - even after a cleanup. I am busy working on the engines. Printing these large parts on my Photon would not have been possible without the double Z-rail upgrade. The parts need a bit of tweaking and modification but nothing too serious.
    5 points
  14. I have progress to show you, actually quite a bit. The spark plug wire harness is finished with all 36 wires routed, painted, ready to go. With that, the forward row inter ear deflectors were installed. And, this was the time when the forward and back row cylinders and crank case halves were bonded together, and the front reduction gear housing was bonded in place as well. I managed to make every mistake in the book along the way, perhaps the worst of which was to paint a 5 foot length of .025 inch silver solder (for the spark plug wires) primer plus gold before hand. I thought I'd be sly and pre-paint so I would not have to reach into inaccessible places to paint wires after installation. Well - as I should have known, the paint flaked off after making bends and curves, or sliding on clamps. So not only did it make a mess of flakes, but I had to go in and paint inside those inaccessible places anyway. In the process, I managed to break off a cylinder, requiring a delicate re-attachment in place with lots of stuff already attached to said cylinder. While joining the two cylinder rows, I accidentally allowed a free end of spark plug wire from the back row to get into the joint. I discovered this after the epoxy was already dry (or nearly), so I had to extricate the solder wire, breaking the wire about mid-length, and applying about a half hour of careful pressure to get the two crank case halves to seat properly. They are almost seated; not quite. That spark plug wire repair was also exceedingly delicate. There were other mis-steps and gaffs I will not bore you with - but suffice it to say that prior to this work, I was hand wringing about it, and was not sure why. Now I know. So here is the result of my pressure packed work: Note the two unattached wires for the magneto. A bottom view showing the scavenge oil stuff: A front view showing every one of those 36 wires: Honestly, I do not know how people do this in smaller scales. Notably absent in that photo is the P & W emblem - Fundekal has STILL not replenished their supply of decals. A rear view, showing the 18 exhaust manifold points that I will tackle one day: Pretty busy engine. Next on the agenda are the magneto, and the prop governor - both mounting onto the top of the reduction gear casing: Next post those primed flats will have components on them. Til then stay safe and healthy.
    5 points
  15. Rowen

    HK B-25J - The Ink Squirts

    All, While I have been a member of LSP for a couple years now, I have not completed a 1/32 build until now. Here's is my first submission - a 19 month build version of the HK B-25J glass nose, made up to resemble the original "The Ink Squirts" as based on Okinawa in the summer of 1945. This took somewhere around 500 hours of time to complete. For the most part, this is an OOB build. I did get the correct props, added metal landing gear, Brassin wheels, used Finemolds ABS plastic seat belts (they are very nice!) and used the Profimodeler brass gun barrels. The paints were a mix of things. Most of the interior was done using Vallejo Air paints. This is the first time I've ever used these paints and I have to say they are excellent. The only ones I did not care for were the metallic ones. They were too grainy for my tastes. The exterior of the plane I first coated in Model Air Grey Primer then applied an overall coat of Floquil Old Silver. I then masked off areas and used a couple different Alclad metals over this for panel variations. Aside from the Grey Primer. None of these were applied to cover 100% as I wanted slight variations in the aluminum skin tones (which can be seen in photos of the original aircraft). Glass lights were painted with Tamiya clears (green, red and orange) on the back side of the clear plastic parts that were then glued into place. Some the engine parts were painted with Model Master Metalizers. Weathering was applied by hand (literally, with my fingers) using a mix of Mig Old Aluminum, Black Smoke and Volcanic Ash pigments mixed in with some of Doc O'Briens Grimy Black weathering powder (these powders can be found in railroad modeling catalogs). For the liquid weatherings I used Mig and Model Master washes. My father was stationed on Okinawa at the end of the war (when this plane was there, too). He often commented that the planes were dusty/sandy from the island sand. So my intent on weathering was based on this and what I could see in photos. Not real dirty/grimy but somewhat dusty-dirty. I have not installed the U antenna on the front glass yet. This did not come with the kit and was purchased from Profimodeler also. Decals were from Kits-World and are very nice! They were applied directly over the Old Silver/Alclad paints and sealed with a 50/50 mix of Polly S Clear Satin and Flat Clear (this seemed to approximate the sheen of the aluminum best to my eye). For the rivet counters out there - Yes, there are some errors. But it's a model. I enjoy building them and don't worry too much about, well, the rivets. The kit cockpit glass is wrong for this particular aircraft. If you search for images of this plane, you will note that the left front of the cockpit has metal framing around the image painted on the glass (the pilot?). These frames are not molded into the kit glass. If anyone has any questions about how I did something on this build, please feel free to contact me. Apologies about the fancy backgrounds in the images. My photo studio was set up to photograph a model (as in woman) and I didn't have time to change it over to a light table (which this model, being as big as it is, probably would not fit on anyway! LOL!). Hope you all enjoy and thanks for taking a look! -Ro
    4 points
  16. So my main focus today was supposed to be making the scoops and ducts for the Lightning, before I got side-tracked into fitting the undercarriage! A little time spent carving formers from some scrap resin, then "moulding" lead foil over the top, finally putting some UV-cured glue inside (thanks Quang) to make them more robust. Like most things, they are fiddly to do at first but practice makes it easier. The best tool is the Mk1 finger nail: All undercarriage now firmly fixed and epoxied:
    4 points
  17. The resin backfill is essential on this as soon as you want to modify/cut/thin one of the components - and I've used it a lot previously in vacforms. Yes, the endless sanding is wearing a little - but I'm trying to keep focussed on the end result that I have in my minds-eye... I hope so - we'll see I guess! But thanks everyone for looking in - I'm not the best 'completer finisher' - but I am filled with a great resolve on this one and your interest/support really helps!. I may have a small update tonight - just uploading some photos... A quick clue - can you tell what have I been working on in this photo? Hopefully not too obvious - which means it''s worked. Iain
    4 points
  18. Pastor John

    Fw 190 D-9 JV 44

    Hi everyone, hope you are all well. I started a model for myself half a year back - not getting off to a good start with four of the six Aires/Quickboost sets I bought not fitting, all having 1.6mm shrinkage and as to date they have still not replied to either my emails or Hannants emails politely warning of the problem so I do not feel too bad about sharing now to be honest! Anyway I enjoyed painting their cockpit set - rear shelf having been lengthened by 1.6mm to fit! and their perfectly fitting gear bay product. I do not really have too much time to do builds with lots of photos but enjoyed fitting me new AIMS PE details. So everything coming along and soon able to close it up and I ended up changing the kits upper gun cowl myself and am very happy with it so will go with that like I should have done from the beginning!
    3 points
  19. Hi fellow modelers, it`s a short video showing some of airplanes used by opposing sides in WWII - Independent State of Croatia and Yugoslav Partisans. Maybe you`ll find it useful. Cheers!
    3 points
  20. Well, everything is in the cockpit tub and a first fit in the fuselage. Looks like it needs some work. There is a piece at the top of the rear instrument panel that will need some work. Either filing in the plastic fuselage halves, or removal and relocation a bit lower, or perhaps AWOL . There are some other locations that need some adapting in the fuselage sections. And of course, there's a whole lot of other items that have to fit before final closing up. So far, I like what I've got.
    3 points
  21. boxart posted on Lukgraph FB page
    3 points
  22. Got most of the required paint organized. I had to order a couple things, including the Tamiya IJN gray/green (AS-26) exterior color.
    3 points
  23. Thanks Tony.....I took a big sigh of relief when this stage was reached: Obviously still a massive amount to do but I feel as if I've reached a major milestone. I wouldn't normally add the undercarriage to a model till much later in the build stage but something is telling me now is the right time for the Lightning. I hope experience+intuition is right!!
    3 points
  24. At one time I was buying pretty much whatever prop airliner kit showed up on Ebay for cheap. So I have a few of them on the shelf. In the middle of my last warbird build I was feeling a bit stuck and started pulling these off the shelf and looking in the boxes. I discovered that for one of them I had gone so far as to order an aftermarket decal sheet (the kit included a bland All Nippon Airlines scheme). So I figured I had better build it ;-). The Doyusha kit is very basic, with only a few parts, hugely overscale "panel lines", and the like. I resolved to ignore that and just throw it together OOB. I got as far as looking at the molded-in front gear doors, which were a scale ~10" thick. Those I had to thin down, because they are so prominent on the front of the model. Other than that I just filled seams. I got lucky with the decal sheet in that the jar of Gunze Mitsubishi Dark Green on my shelf was a decent match for the Ozark Air Lines green, which made cleaning up a few little gaps and painting the spinners easy. Overall I think it turned out a handsome little model, for the simple thing it is. I think I spent more on the decal sheet than on the kit... With this thing wrapped I'm really starting on the 1:32 Zero tomorrow. But if I get distracted partway through, I noticed I also have a 1:72 DC2 kit (MPM) with an aftermarket early TWA "Lindbergh Line" decal sheet in the box. Maybe I need to just continue with the one airliner per warbird cadence?
    3 points
  25. I've finally had the opportunity today to add a splash of colour to the flap bays. Trouble is, this beast is a little too large to fit in a spray booth: IMG_0277 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Equally, finding a place for it to dry off is equally problematic: IMG_0280 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Anyway, size issues aside, Xtracolor's Zinc Chromate has brought this area to life: IMG_0285 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I've also given the out-rigger bays another spraying as I felt the Humbrol Chromate Yellow was too brownish: IMG_0282 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0283 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0288 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0290 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Pretty happy with the outcome Regards to all, Tom
    3 points
  26. I’m calling the aggressor just about done, save for a few antenna to attach, and the loadout which will be finished at the same time as ‘Zeus’. I’m still to figure out how I’m gonna mount and display them, but that’s for another day. For now, I’m gonna pull ‘Zeus’ back down from the shelf and get the paintwork finished there.
    3 points
  27. 3 points
  28. I've been a long time lurker (years). Now that I'm retired and things have settled and I have a modeling area again, so, I thought I would join in. I'm not going to get too carried away but there's a set of Aries Seats coming too. This thing is big! I've wanted to build one of these since Trumpeter released it, so now was the time.
    2 points
  29. I have waited for this moment for some time. No longer posting in "In the Works" on this one. IT IS DONE. The 35 year journey has come to an end. This kit was purchased in 1984 or 85. It was tinkered with off and on for years starting back then. This kit is a world traveler having resided in New York, Oklahoma, Germany, back to Oklahoma, Texas and completed in Tennessee. It is far from perfect, but it is finished...well, other than putting back on one flying wire on the tail...I didn't notice had fallen off until I was looking at pictures preparing this post. N66Y is a Pitts S-1C built by my dad in the early sixities and one of the earliest of plans built Pitts Specials. It was bought by well known acro legend Bob Herendeen in 1965. He won the US National Aerobatic Championship flying it in 1966, the first US Team member to compete in a Pitts. He also flew it in the world competition in Moscow that same year. It definitely put the Pitts Special on the map and soon all the pilots were flying Pitts for many years after. The kit is of a four aileron S-1D. I've back dated to the S-1C which only had ailerons on the lower wing, but with longer span. Both had a flat bottom airfoil. Soon, the Pitts S-1S with symetrical airfoil eclipsed the S-1Cs and Bob sold N66Y and moved into his new Pitts S-1S N266Y. Unfortunately, I was too young to fly when dad built his Pitts (3 total) and sold the last one. I have been lucky enough to fly three different S-1S Pitts...and they are an absolute delight and fly inverted as well us right side up. Today, N66Y is owned by the Experimental Airplane Association, but is on loan to the Aircraft Spruce and Supply Company and on display at their Peach Tree City airport location where it hangs in the lobby. The real N66Y then and now... This picture was made shortly before completion and first flight. Notice the missing windshield. As it hangs in ACS Lobby today. My dad sitting in cosmetically restored N66Y at OSHKOSH 2000 when it was displayed in memory of Bob Herendeen.
    2 points
  30. This is going to be awesome Iain! I did something similar for my RF-4C. Derek
    2 points
  31. http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/productdetail?productid=3203&cat=1 http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/productdetail?productid=3205&cat=1
    2 points
  32. I've lost count of how many times I've had the engine assemblies out of these cars, whether it be the 3800 V-6, LT-1 or LS-1. And you're right about those distributors.......a real treat.
    2 points
  33. Hi fellow modelers, In this video I'm showing you how to make flight instrument panel out of super glue and talcum powder. The final product is a little bit rough, but acceptable if used on older kit (when resin parts are more expensive than the kit itself). BW
    2 points
  34. Make sure to check out Ryan Toews tweak list for the A6M2 if you're so inclined (https://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=3339). There are some ambiguities and incorrect color references in the Tamiya instructions that Ryan straightens out. Also, know that all the aircraft that took place on the Pearl Harbor operation were built by Mitsubishi. The Nakajima built A6M2's apparently hadn't been deployed to the fleet before it sailed on November 26, 1941. This information will come into play when you're building and painting the cockpit and the overall exterior of the aircraft. It is a great kit but watch out for the retractable landing gear. I will recommend you do not operate them any more than is absolutely required during your build. They're very easy to break and a real pain to fix. You can get aftermarket wheel wells and such to eliminate this problem but I didn't bother with that and just installed them at the end of the build in the down position. There's also some great reference builds in this forum. I can't remember names at the moment but if you search for zero, you can probably find most of them.
    2 points
  35. Hi Derek, I've never used it with Klear - or any varnish - never needed to - and on the outside that would just get sanded back anyway. I've never had fogging on the rear side - just a tiny amount of superglue at a time - or smear the rear face with a little neat washing-up liquid and just rinse afterwards! All the transparencies on the Connie are done with superglue... Depends on how all the glazing panels fit - I want them flush - with the only external 'step' being the masked edge for the painted frame. But choice of HIPS, rather than PETG, was dictated by the need to sand flush and polish. Iain
    2 points
  36. Thanks Iain - I was going to suggest a thin bead of super glue to the front edges for extra strength and as a filler; I do this all of the time with my transparencies in kits (in fact after a coat of Klear to prevent fogging, I apply the stuff liberally and sand back to the required finish - the neat thing is that the density of cured super glue is not that different to the transparency, so it more or less becomes invisible). Cheers Derek
    2 points
  37. She's not a tail-sitter!! U/c not yet fixed so a few adjustments to angles if needed:
    2 points
  38. Very interesting thread! I've drawn and printed some Aero 1Ds for my Prowler and Viking using the same drawing as reference a few years ago. It's probably time to finally start my range, maybe they could be helpful for some among us...
    2 points
  39. Hi Derek, No - the edge colour not effected. As it's an ink it dissolves a little - but dries neatly - and doesn't effect the strength of the bond. I've also been known to use thin superglue applied in small amounts from the front with a cocktail stick, before sanding back and polishing - the superglue acting as a filler. I'll decide at the time on best route - but happy I can make nice panes that actually fit! Iain
    2 points
  40. Fantastic "C" version there! Makes me think back to the days as a SAAF ATC working those aircraft. That was probably my second favourite a/c, number one was the Mirage F1! Awesome machines. Great to see one again, thank you!
    2 points
  41. Nice Trans Am! Reminds me of my Firehawk I sold last year. *sniff*
    2 points
  42. Taking a closer look at two interior parts that I feel are important: the throttle quadrant and the gunsight. These have been snipped from the sprue and the mold seams carefully removed. I've partially reamed out the optic element of the gunsight with the tip of a small drill bit so that I can put a drop of clear UV epoxy in it at the end. The Brengun detail set has some upgrades for both of these components. I can't promise that I'll be using all of these phototech pieces. Sometimes they look better on paper than real life. And sometimes the parts are just too small and fiddle to bother with (at least for me). For example, I'm pretty dubious about folding those tiny holders for the gunsight glass film... seriously? I've noticed that Brengun includes a great deal of exterior enhancements as well. Notice the wheel hub details to the right of the gunsight section. I've already painted the wheel hubs without realizing that there were these enhancements. I'll have to take a closer look at the instruction sheet to take inventory of all of the possible improvements.
    2 points
  43. Very nice model...a bugger of a car to do work on but a great model, also noticed, keep your GM vehicle all GM oil filter! Nice detail!!
    2 points
  44. LSP_K2

    Trumpeter 1:16 Jagdtiger

    After filing a very minor mold depression that ran the span of the piece, I've now gone ahead and added bogus casting numbers to the superstructure front plate. More casting texture to be added here as well, as Trumpeter left it as smooth as glass, which it most certainly was not.
    2 points
  45. By the way, as they were the jack points you need to close them on the other side. I simply glued a sheet of plastic on the other side.
    2 points
  46. A quick update: Landing gear and wheel wells painted and ready for a subtle wash. Fast forward multiple hours - the cockpits and and wheel well are now in place and the fuselage is ready for glue. Getting everything in place was scary as hell. Fit is sometimes vague (rear cockpit tub) and in other places extremly tight (sidewalls vs. rear walls). I was really close to binning the whloe thing but I guess from now on it'll be easy. Now I still need to tackle the wing pylons which don't fit at all. Should I get the resin replacements from videoavaiation?
    2 points
  47. Another detail I've added to the Shiden Kai. The kit gives you boarding ladders for each side of the aircraft. Like the Fw 190D-9, the boarding ladder is retractable. The kit shows the ladder in the retracted position, laying flush with the bottom of the wing. If you want to mount the boarding ladder, the kit requires you to open up the appropriate hole. I am going to have the port ladder extended. But instead of just drilling the hole, I thought it's more realistic to open the space that the ladder would occupy. A piece of sheet styrene was used to block off the opening and a small hole was drilled into that to accept the ladder. I dry fit the fuselage to make sure the piece of styrene wasn't interfering with the fit. Another small detail that hopefully adds to the overall model.
    2 points
  48. Hey all- I needed to build something that would protect my crew chiefs arm while I riveted the opposite side of the fuselage. I tack glued it into the slot that the main gear fits into. It also serves as a stand of sorts- My plan is to rivet the other side up to the cabin like here..then fix the cockpit doors, windows, and windscreen in place, then do the fuselage sides around the cockpit, then finish up riveting the belly- cheers Pete
    2 points
  49. Did a bit of work today. I will be using the Aires IP. Compared to the Eduard one. I don't like the grainy look of the Eduard IP. Installed in the Aires dash. I started masking the canopy and windscreen inside and out. While I was at it, I left the Eduard masking set alone and did it all with Tamiya tape. The Eduard set will be used with the remaining AM stuff on another 162. On this photo it looks like the tape is not snug against the frame, but that is optical illusion. The (Aires) wheels are done. Some weathering to do. Today I also removed the moulded-on hydraulic lines on the main gear legs, I will replace them with wire ones.I wondered about the Revell wheel and wether or not the thin lines across the tyres would wear off in use. They do as the wear shows in period photos, so I am not going to restore them, and use the Aires wheels. Part fit on this kit is exceptional. I wonder if Revell kept the team that designed this and cut the molds... they should have gotten a raise and Revell should have let them do all their kits. This is by far the best quality Revell molding I ever worked with. Period. This is after glue, before any sanding: My "opt-in" bottom seam is closed up and it gets the works to make it dissappear. I enhance-scribed the seams of the ailerons and elevators. A safe and easy way to practice scribing. Only screwed up twice I tested if there is enough lead to prevent tail-sitting. Revell recommend 45gs in the nose cone in the instructions. In order to get 45gs in that small cone you would need Plutonium so good luck with that. Luckily there is ample space behind the cockpit. Some drawings, might be of use for someone when aligning tail and gear and such. She will be finished as this one. Note the remark about the Werksnummer. I will put 122230 on her. Below still with the original tail section. I didn't want to keep this one from you guys and gals. I have never seen this one colorised before. Mesmerising image to me, it makes me wonder about those hectic times, and what remains to be discovered. Thanks for watching!
    2 points
  50. Been very busy the last week. Everytime that I modifie a piece, the same has to be done to the other 8 Bburago F-40's. My workbench is littered with parts : I removed about 5mm from the front part of the frame. Before : After : I finally cut all the struts from a U-shaped brass profile. Took me couple of hour. Sorry for the lousy picture : The struts are sanded on the top, so that the piece of plasticard fits nicely : I'm using this part from a Kyosho F-40 to make some details that will go on to the back of the piece of plasticard : Kyosho made the air inlet tubes like this : This is a first test on one of the Bburago frames, I might want the alter the shape of the hole a bit because now the tube gets squashed : I hope that the tube will look like this when done : Sincerely Pascal
    2 points
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