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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/29/2020 in all areas

  1. My bench is a bit messy again - even after a cleanup. I am busy working on the engines. Printing these large parts on my Photon would not have been possible without the double Z-rail upgrade. The parts need a bit of tweaking and modification but nothing too serious.
    15 points
  2. One of the most interesting airplanes for people who like strong weathering. F-4E Phantom II Hellenic Air Force Tamiya 1:32, model made of course straight from the box so it may not be an ideal reproduction of the F-4E HAF. The Tamiya set is probably well known to everyone. In short it's realy good set. Greek planes can be very heavily exploited, which makes them a great material for modelers.
    14 points
  3. Phew, that was a tough one... Been working on the passenger seats trying to get them to look like the real seats of a DH.89 And no, I haven't been painting the 'sunrise' pattern on the seats... After much 'brooding' I came up with the solution of printing the pattern and seam's on clear decal paper. There's even is a little 'wrinkle' here and there. All in all I'm quite pleased with the result Kent
    12 points
  4. Pastor John

    Fw 190 D-9 JV 44

    Hi everyone, hope you are all well. I started a model for myself half a year back - not getting off to a good start with four of the six Aires/Quickboost sets I bought not fitting, all having 1.6mm shrinkage and as to date they have still not replied to either my emails or Hannants emails politely warning of the problem so I do not feel too bad about sharing now to be honest! Anyway I enjoyed painting their cockpit set - rear shelf having been lengthened by 1.6mm to fit! and their perfectly fitting gear bay product. I do not really have too much time to do builds with lots of photos but enjoyed fitting me new AIMS PE details. So everything coming along and soon able to close it up and I ended up changing the kits upper gun cowl myself and am very happy with it so will go with that like I should have done from the beginning!
    10 points
  5. OK - some photos: And some filler-primer on the interior of the tail: Iain
    8 points
  6. Hello Not a LSP, but a large model. I wanted to build a Caravelle for a long time. But not just any Caravelle. This particular one, msn 12, F-BHRF christen Auvergne This one was exposed for many years at the entrance of the airport of my home town. As a kid, I always was fascinated by the "huge" (Huge is a matter of perspective... but as a kid, it was hude to me) plane parked there, on the side of the road. Then when, as a teen, I started flying gliders there, we use to spend some evening on board with the friends from the flying club. Some even slept on its wings... It was unfortunatly scrapped in 2006. Anyway, enough with the nostalgia.... All Caravelle kits are quite old and they all have their issues, some worse than others. Mach2 is a French short run brand. It is known for producing subjects that are definitely not mainstream. It is also known for the "limited" quality of its kit. I knew the Mach 2 kit would be a challenge but having built several fonderie miniature kits (another French short run brand known for its bad moulding and hard fitting) , I was not afraid..... Well.... I was in for an adventure... It is probably the worse kit I ever built... I had already decided not to use the "clear" parts, which are clear only by name. This turned out to be a great decision. Then I got rid of all the interior stuff... anyway there is nothing to see because ref previous line... The wheels: directly in the bin as well. The two parts of the mould were not aligned, I let you imagine the shape of the wheels... I replaced them with 1/48 Mirage F1 wheels for the MLGs and 1/48 NLG wheels from an F-100 for the NLG. Not the most accurate but who cares, it cannot be worse than the kit "things". I also replaced the engine exhaust by Whirlybird resin exhaust initially planned for the DH Comet. Now the funny part: wing to fuselage assembly. I quickly realised that this would be an adventure in itself: the wing sweep between the upper and lower parts was not the same by a significant margin. Sometimes on some kits, you need a bit of surgey to assemble parts. Here it was butchery. I reworked the complete wing root with a dremel and a miller (not sure of the english term, it is not a drill, it is the tool used to machine metal parts if you see what I mean) I think I never had to remove so much plastic to fit parts. Then, a truckload of putty here and there and I could finaly start painting. Humbrol 147 for the lower fuselage and the wing/horizontal stabilizer walk ways hu metal cote for the rest of the wing For the white on upper fuselage, I sprayed Tamyia true white TS-26. I could not imagine all this white area with an handbrush. Orange and dayglow for the wingtips. The decals: another adventure. I ordered them from F-Decals, a french brand producing a wide range of airliners decals. I must say that was a bumpy road as it took him 4 months to send them. And having exchanged with others on French forum, that's not only due to the covid mess and lock down. No answer to the numerous reminders. the only two emails I received were to tell me the decal sheets would be sent the next monday, which never happened. I ended up opening a claim with paypal. and then by miracle, 3 days after I received the decal sheets, but not excuse, no message, nothing which is a realy shame because those decals are real nice and good quality. I also used windows and windshiled decal sheet from Authentic airliners. I think they add a touch of realism compared to the usual grey windows we see on mist airliner kits. Here is the result:
    7 points
  7. Another detail I've added to the Shiden Kai. The kit gives you boarding ladders for each side of the aircraft. Like the Fw 190D-9, the boarding ladder is retractable. The kit shows the ladder in the retracted position, laying flush with the bottom of the wing. If you want to mount the boarding ladder, the kit requires you to open up the appropriate hole. I am going to have the port ladder extended. But instead of just drilling the hole, I thought it's more realistic to open the space that the ladder would occupy. A piece of sheet styrene was used to block off the opening and a small hole was drilled into that to accept the ladder. I dry fit the fuselage to make sure the piece of styrene wasn't interfering with the fit. Another small detail that hopefully adds to the overall model.
    6 points
  8. Nearly there! Added the new sliding canopy and some odds and ends so just a bit more weathering to do.
    6 points
  9. hello again my friends thanks for all your kind comments Thanks Vincent - makes sense and it gives me more confidence now you have said it Thanks Rick - you should restart it - it's a fascinating bird and I am finding out more and more as I go. I am not conditioned to make assumptions as I really like working from drawings and facts, but with this model I have had to learn to start to relax a bit and just go with what would make sense in the absence of those facts They are hugely helpful Mark - thank you. I do have the D model parts manual but just couldn't find those drawings in the 600 odd pages while scanning through them A little update on the 190… ..added the PE part to the seat pan and made up a buck to vacform the seat back – I tried it in metal but it was not only too thin, but the folds were too straight, that is to say the seat back has quite radiused corners where the metal was folded / pressed to make it.. ..this is before I cut the back down as it was too tall.. ..then made up a little jig to add the mounting lugs.. ..and assembled & painted.. I am using MRP Paints RLM66 and am really struggling with it – it seems to dry and go syrupy in the airbrush paint cup almost immediately and the finish is quite rough – I might redo it and try thinning it.. I am also not sure about the colour – it looks very dark to me… ..next up are the two small bulkheads that are mounted to the seat rails – the left hand one has the round oxygen thing that the pilot whacks with his elbow if the cockpit depressurises and it creates an oxygen mist.. ..I made up the seat rails from brass ‘I’ beams with the sides filed down to the two different widths they are in reality, and added the PE bulkhead laminates… I also made up the oxygen thing.. ..and painted them… ..in readiness for fitting them, I made up the canopy rails from brass square section with a slot cut into it and fitted these to the sidewall parts so I knew where the seat rail bulkheads needed to integrate with.. ..also added the rear cockpit skin with the riveting to the pointed part under the canopy.. ..then the cockpit area was painted as I worried I wouldn’t be able to get in all the nooks and crannies and the bulkheads added.. ..and with the seat dry fitted.. ..still not sure about the colour… Has anyone got any recommendations for an idiotproof RLM66 that is maybe a bit lighter (& bluer?) TTFN Peter
    6 points
  10. Hello After KH Miragge 2000, I decided to go back in time with this Mirage IIIc from Italeri I built the IIIe version some times ago and I new what to expect: kit is rather good but there are few shortcomings. Notably the nose cone adjustment: it is wider than the fuselage so sanding and putty are in order. Then the fairing round the exhaust and the vertical tail plan are quite tricky due to very small contact surfaces with the fuselage parts (especially for the fairing, if the photoetch frame is not presicely installed, there is no contact surface anymore. After several dry fit tests, I decided not to follow the sequence of steps from the instructions. Some addons I used: Pitot from Masters PE from Eduard for the seat and cockpit panels Resin wheels from reskit The squadron insigna is from an old Berna decal sheet for a 1/48 Super Mystere B2 if I remember well. It happens that it is nearly the right size for the 1/32 Mirage IIIc. Lucky me. Handbrush painting as usual : Humbrol 230 "pru Blue" for the top. For the lower part and the fuel tank, I tried vallejo metal colors. I must say I love them. I found by chance a video on YT (dogma72 - Brushing Vallejo Metal Color) showing how to brush them. It is a bit unatural way of working but it worked well: in fact you dry brush them. I put a layer of vallejo black primer then I used a large square brush, with nearly no paint on it and brush the surface. I did 3 or 4 layer, waiting overnight between each. Result is to my opinion close to what you could have with an airbrush. Not brush marks. Pigments are much thinner than the Humbrol Metal cote and the range of colors is wide. I used aluminum 701 and for some parts pale burnt aluminum 704 (it is not really visible on the photos due to lighting conditions). I also used jet exhause 713 for the stove pipe I had a lot of fun with this kit. A pair of French Deltas
    5 points
  11. LSP_K2

    Trumpeter 1:16 Jagdtiger

    Muffler guards now get some additional work, including (bogus) casting numbers on the second guard. Continuing the process of adding mild casting texture. I really like the look of this.
    5 points
  12. I've finally had the opportunity today to add a splash of colour to the flap bays. Trouble is, this beast is a little too large to fit in a spray booth: IMG_0277 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Equally, finding a place for it to dry off is equally problematic: IMG_0280 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Anyway, size issues aside, Xtracolor's Zinc Chromate has brought this area to life: IMG_0285 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I've also given the out-rigger bays another spraying as I felt the Humbrol Chromate Yellow was too brownish: IMG_0282 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0283 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0288 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0290 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Pretty happy with the outcome Regards to all, Tom
    5 points
  13. The wings are on, all looks pretty good......I can't swear that the anhedral is exactly 5 deg. but there is anhedral and it looks right-ish so that's OK. I ran a bead of Milliput along the wing/fuselage gap, though I've seen worse on IM kits, so well done Echelon! I think, after the tail plane is fitted, a coat of primer might be in order before I start addressing all the other lumps n' bumps!
    5 points
  14. Progress in the cockpit. A little slow, not getting as much time as I would like. It still needs some weathering, etc. Then to see how it fits in the fuselage.
    5 points
  15. Hey all I won’t torture you with every rivet picture- but this part took me so long I felt like I had to photograph it! cheers Pete
    5 points
  16. Hello ! We adapted the US Navy pilot hands out of cockpit to the Tomcat wider fuselage , BTW, we changed also the MBU-23 by a MBU-14 mask. the open face version is designed to change the face without too much work (by us, it's still a CAD work). For late Tomcat : Cheers Norbert
    4 points
  17. Revell's all new P51 D is a lovely, straightforward kit with no vices. I added a set of etched seat belts, and the rest was out of the box. Painted with Humbrol enamels. Thanks for looking Angelo.
    4 points
  18. The resin backfill is essential on this as soon as you want to modify/cut/thin one of the components - and I've used it a lot previously in vacforms. Yes, the endless sanding is wearing a little - but I'm trying to keep focussed on the end result that I have in my minds-eye... I hope so - we'll see I guess! But thanks everyone for looking in - I'm not the best 'completer finisher' - but I am filled with a great resolve on this one and your interest/support really helps!. I may have a small update tonight - just uploading some photos... A quick clue - can you tell what have I been working on in this photo? Hopefully not too obvious - which means it''s worked. Iain
    4 points
  19. I’m calling the aggressor just about done, save for a few antenna to attach, and the loadout which will be finished at the same time as ‘Zeus’. I’m still to figure out how I’m gonna mount and display them, but that’s for another day. For now, I’m gonna pull ‘Zeus’ back down from the shelf and get the paintwork finished there.
    4 points
  20. I have one more Echelon Lighting kit and I feel the same way. I think there are deep finger nail marks on it from the last owner. LOL
    4 points
  21. Ok, so it's time to face up to our mistakes. Mistakes happen and as a modeler, I always try to approach mistakes as a challenge or opportunity rather than a setback. At least this prevents me from throwing the kit in the garbage can! My objective is to wipe out any traces of the mistake so that it is invisible to the viewer. Or if that is not possible, at least reduce the error so that it no longer calls attention to itself. One of the operating characteristics of Tamiya Extra Thin liquid cement is its capillary action. It's a very useful trait that can be a great advantage when gluing parts together. You can wick together some pretty impressive joins with minimal clean-up using this stuff. However, that capillary action needs special attention. You have to be extra careful when working around tape masks and clear parts, for example. In this case, I was trying to get the joints to close between the stabilizer halves. At some point, excess glue seeped onto one of my finger pads and caused some damage. I immediately set the piece aside. Best not to do anything until you let the glue dry. Looking at it now, it's actually not that bad. Through the ridges of the finger print, you can still make out all of the recessed and raised detail. There was also a secondary blob on the same stabilizer. It was on a flat area with no detail affected so this should be an easier fix. Since I now have the tool on hand, I used the D400 sander to grind out the blob. After the surface was level, I used a finer sandpaper to finish it off. That took a couple of minutes. On to the bigger one. Instead of just getting a piece of sandpaper and trying to rub out the whole thing at once, I took a look at it and decided to attack this systematically. A logical division is between the metal stabilizer and the fabric covered control surface. Concentrating only on the metal stabilizer portion, I sand this area smooth. Just enough to remove the mistake while trying to preserve as much of the recessed panel lines and rivets as possible. Shifting over to the fabric portion, we are trying to sand between the raised stitching details. I thought the piston action of the D400 with a very narrow head would be ideal for this but the narrowest head was too wide. Instead, I used a piece of fresh sandpaper, crisply folded in half. This gives me enough rigidity to use the thin edge of the folded end as a precise sanding tool. Using this piece of sandpaper in a "cutting" motion as well as a sideways "wiping" motion, I was able to smooth out the glue blob between the fabric stitching strips. The whole area was then smoothed with my finest grade of sandpaper and buffed out with a piece of cloth. For all intents and purposed, good as new. The reward for being systematic and careful was that I didn't even have to restore any detail. So we're back to even. Remember that I mentioned that I wanted the stabilizer to be even better than original? I knew in advance that the piece was going to be riveted so that was going to be accomplished eventually. But working on the stabilizer and comparing with the photos of the restored aircraft, I noticed the tab actuators could be refined. So I did some minor cutting and fished out a small piece from the PE spares box and came up with a little more detail. It has not been permanently attached at this point as I'm worried about it getting knocked during the remainder of construction. So, with the repairs complete and even without the riveting, I do consider the stabilizer now better than original!
    4 points
  22. I have progress to show you, actually quite a bit. The spark plug wire harness is finished with all 36 wires routed, painted, ready to go. With that, the forward row inter ear deflectors were installed. And, this was the time when the forward and back row cylinders and crank case halves were bonded together, and the front reduction gear housing was bonded in place as well. I managed to make every mistake in the book along the way, perhaps the worst of which was to paint a 5 foot length of .025 inch silver solder (for the spark plug wires) primer plus gold before hand. I thought I'd be sly and pre-paint so I would not have to reach into inaccessible places to paint wires after installation. Well - as I should have known, the paint flaked off after making bends and curves, or sliding on clamps. So not only did it make a mess of flakes, but I had to go in and paint inside those inaccessible places anyway. In the process, I managed to break off a cylinder, requiring a delicate re-attachment in place with lots of stuff already attached to said cylinder. While joining the two cylinder rows, I accidentally allowed a free end of spark plug wire from the back row to get into the joint. I discovered this after the epoxy was already dry (or nearly), so I had to extricate the solder wire, breaking the wire about mid-length, and applying about a half hour of careful pressure to get the two crank case halves to seat properly. They are almost seated; not quite. That spark plug wire repair was also exceedingly delicate. There were other mis-steps and gaffs I will not bore you with - but suffice it to say that prior to this work, I was hand wringing about it, and was not sure why. Now I know. So here is the result of my pressure packed work: Note the two unattached wires for the magneto. A bottom view showing the scavenge oil stuff: A front view showing every one of those 36 wires: Honestly, I do not know how people do this in smaller scales. Notably absent in that photo is the P & W emblem - Fundekal has STILL not replenished their supply of decals. A rear view, showing the 18 exhaust manifold points that I will tackle one day: Pretty busy engine. Next on the agenda are the magneto, and the prop governor - both mounting onto the top of the reduction gear casing: Next post those primed flats will have components on them. Til then stay safe and healthy.
    4 points
  23. Some of the upper surface markings have been painted. The double chevrons and the black tulip are definitely after the white but I'm not sure about the tail swastika.
    4 points
  24. Very old 1974 TOMY kit plus MDC conversion color AK Real color , Gunze C, Yahu Instrument panel homemade mask - drawn in corel draw, mask which was edited and carved on plotter by my friend Pavel Shortland floatplane base, Solomons Islands, February 1943, flown by Lt. Keizo Yamazaki
    3 points
  25. I'll Be in for 3! My old man recently acquired this one in Australia, to add to his fleet of Austers
    3 points
  26. Tony T

    1/32 Trumpeter F-100F

    Just ask your cat or dog to mail him some cash. Tony
    3 points
  27. A quick update: Landing gear and wheel wells painted and ready for a subtle wash. Fast forward multiple hours - the cockpits and and wheel well are now in place and the fuselage is ready for glue. Getting everything in place was scary as hell. Fit is sometimes vague (rear cockpit tub) and in other places extremly tight (sidewalls vs. rear walls). I was really close to binning the whloe thing but I guess from now on it'll be easy. Now I still need to tackle the wing pylons which don't fit at all. Should I get the resin replacements from videoavaiation?
    3 points
  28. The Revell G-6 kit is very accurate in its basic proportions but the cowl gun troughs are about 2mm too close together, the cowl beule are noticeably undersized and the oil cooler is a poor representation. But there is after market resin that address all three issues. The Hasegawa is very good in it basic dimensions, the exception being the forward fuselage which is about 4 mm too short. This is located aft of the cowl and forward of the cockpit. Although 4mm does not sound like much it puts the buele noticeably too close to the cockpit. The Trumpeter kit has an odd look to it , largely because of errors in the fuselage, forward of the canopy.
    3 points
  29. Hey all- I needed to build something that would protect my crew chiefs arm while I riveted the opposite side of the fuselage. I tack glued it into the slot that the main gear fits into. It also serves as a stand of sorts- My plan is to rivet the other side up to the cabin like here..then fix the cockpit doors, windows, and windscreen in place, then do the fuselage sides around the cockpit, then finish up riveting the belly- cheers Pete
    3 points
  30. It has only been 18 months since I last looked at my Flanker. I have started a 1/24th 109G which I do plan to continue later this year. Right now I am focussing on advancing this model as the kit I really wanted to build (QF-4) I am awaiting the right parts and that is approx 60 days away from arriving. So what have been doing today? re-acquainting myself with what a beast of a kit this is. I have started on cutting her up ready to add AM and most importantly the lovely Zactomodels bits and pieces. First off being the intakes (which are a work of art in themselves) and the Aires gear bays parts. First off you can see the areas that need removing and that I have been drilling away ready for removal That all worked pretty well to get us here. I could not working out why the Aires AM Main Gear bays did not appear correctly until I noticed the instructions highlighting that some of the plastic in front of the bay needed removing to enable the correct fitting of the parts. Hopefully you can see the difference between the one of the left that is not complete and has the wheel bay at an odd angle to the rest of the aircraft and the right which has been fitted correctly with the extra plastic removed as shown in the aires instructions. The last two images show this with the AM pieces placed so you can see the difference it makes Can anyone let me know whether the Trumpeter instructions are correct for the intake/ramp colours? I am planning on a 2000-2003 bird (if that makes a difference) More cutting, filling and sanding to come....
    3 points
  31. spacewolf

    Bandai 1/48 Opel truck

    I built Bandai armor waaayy back ... far too many moons ago. I had a diorama in mind and have been on the hunt for one of these truck at a reasonable price for some time.. finally got it. The kit is old, it's not up to todays standards but oh my is it nice. A coat of Microscale decal film over the 46 year old decals did the trick... yes those are the kit decals. Very few problems, no extra's added ... a fun nostalgic build.
    2 points
  32. Oh, go on then, Gold Star for Derek! Yes - with my fresh supply of 1.5mm clear HIPS sheet I thought I'd take a break from sanding/cutting/reinforcing big chunks of ABS and have a play with a glazing - to see if this particular cunning plan was going to work. I'll let you guys be the judge by the end of this post. The quality of clear parts can make, or break, a model and so I usually spend a lot of time on a project trying to get these as good as I can get them. I try to use the most suitable material for any given purpose. The fuselage windows I'm going to do as a single strip each side - so wanted a clear, non-yellowing, plastic that would easily conform to the single curve of the fuselage - and gould be glued to the ABS fuselage prints with solvent. So - 0.25mm UV Stabilised PETG sheet will be used. For the cockpit windows I wanted something absolutely flat and distortion free - and something I could use wet and dry followed by polishing with Novus Plastic Polish. PETG doesn't like sanding/polishing at all - but HIPS does - and at 1.5 mm thick substantial enough for shaping and to hold it's flat shape on fitment. Add to that the trick of 'edging' the clear part with a permanent marker that I've been using for years to make neat edges, as well as create the impression of thinner 'glass', I thought I might have the tools to make a go of these. Tonight I cut the first window: An oversize section was laid over the window aperture and the edges marked on the surface with a new scalpel blade. The section was then trimmed back using Tamiya side-cutters to within about 1mm - then the edges taken back with the T-Bar sander - bit by bit, with lots of trial and error - as well as corner rounding, until it fitted absobl**dy perfectly - even if I do say so myself! Here it is just press fitted in position - took about an hour - but hopefully looks OK! Final bonding will be with a little solvent touched into the corners and into the joint - followed by a polish. So, I think there's another challenge sorted, perhaps... Iain
    2 points
  33. WOOHOOOOOO!!!!!!! And repeat chearing over, andover, andover, andover A very large plane in a very small box just landed on my doorstep from Japan. I guess deliveries are finally unfreezing from Japan to the US. This kiwi is delighted
    2 points
  34. Interior + location pegs worked well.
    2 points
  35. It's simple, if you like engines and gunbays go with Tamiya. If you just want a P-51 that looks good on the shelf, go with Revell.
    2 points
  36. The Hasegawa is also on the table, as ALL the Hasegawa 1/32 kitsthat I have are great in my opinion.
    2 points
  37. The stabiliser was a disappointment for me as I did shave some off the stabiliser itself to make it fit but looking back I should have done a dry fit with the tail halves at the start as I think now that the problem is with the tabs. The back of the instrument panel looks very bare and you can see the gap, but with the gunsight and armoured glass installed plus the windscreen it will not be very noticeable, however for the effort required in the early stages I should in hindsight have added some cables. The armoured glass in the second photo is only roughly perched on the gunsight. Cheers Dennis
    2 points
  38. the last kit out of the workshop, I started it yesterday:
    2 points
  39. If failing = learning, then I’m definitely learning. Came up with a unique concept for aligning & assembling parts today: location tabs! Crazy. Errors required some big reprints, so I took the opportunity to add the interior step between the the driver’s & commander’s area & the rest of the interior. Which looks like this, in CAD: As the front of the floor will be invisible, I’m not going to replicate its precise shape. The new centre section is a 58-hour print!
    2 points
  40. I fancied doing a bit of work on the BUFF last night... IMG_0179[1] by Thomas Probert, on Flickr The wife took this unbeknown to me as apparently she wanted to show her girly pals how big my... model is
    2 points
  41. Thought I'd dive in head first with what is probably my first LSP post! I've recently finished my Trumpeter 1/32 Harrier GR7 of IV(AC) Sqn RAF Laarbruch, Germany in 1994 (I served on this Sqn and worked on this aircraft) The kit is woefully inaccurate but with the help of serious amounts of resin extras (from a fellow modeller on BM) I hope I've been able to create a quite reasonable model of the real thing. Paints are all Tamiya XF-81 Dark green 2 RAF for the top sides and XF-71 Cockpit Green for the undersides. Resin or Brass: Nose section, BOL rails, BL755 Cluster Bombs, CBU87B/B Cluster Bombs, 48KvA GPU, Oxygen Trolly, Tow bar, CBLS100 Practice Bomb carriers, Flare pack, Wheels, Eduard Interior & Exterior sets, new fuel tank fronts (to correct shape), AIM9L Acquisition rounds. Decals are kit, spares box, custom printed, or the large set by Airframe. All panel lines were rescribed (some maybe a little heavily) and the pylons corrected in shape and fit, gun-pods were resized, re-scribed and detailed. Canopy MDC is also an add on (can't remember who) It's literally hundreds of hours of work over two years as I had a massive hiatus from modelling of 10+ years... Anyway, on to a few pics: Hope you enjoy Steve
    1 point
  42. LSP_K2

    Bandai 1/48 Opel truck

    Nice job. I have a couple of tiny 1:72 trucks and tanks to get to, "one of these days", but no 1:48 scale stuff, even though there are some great kits out there.
    1 point
  43. Looking great Iain! Clever idea to inject resin into the voids...... Something I might have to look at for my tail surfaces later. That's a lot of sanding you're doing...... I'm sick of just working on my two nacelles! Craig
    1 point
  44. After building four B-17Ds in 48 scale using Koster's conversion kit, I'm going to try building one in 32nd. Came across your project and like your approach, although extremely detailed. In 48 scale, just four cuts were needed: 1) 3/8" (9.5250 mm) section removed below the cockpit window and forward of the main seam forward of the wing, 2) remove the cockpit roof, 3) cut the aft fuselage at 1/2" (12.7000 mm) aft of the main seam aft of the radio upper window, and 4) removal of material from the vacuform fuselage to insert the stabilizer. You removed a 10 mm (.3937 in) section from the forward fuselage instead of 1.5*3/8 = .5625 in (14.2875 mm). Are you sure this will match the 13' 9 37/64" (4.0936 m) distance between the nose and the wing leading edge? (127.9550 mm in 32nd.) You do not indicate material removal from the cockpit floor and its side walls. Koster suggested about 5/16" (7.9375 mm) removed from the cockpit floor. (15/32" or 11.9063 mm in 32nd.) You cut the ring around the upper turret for the commander's dome. Are you going to change the opening to tear drop shape? It looks like your aft fuselage will be in two or more pieces. The first piece is the area around the crew entry door showing interior framing. Very nice as one does not have to cut out the door and the opposing windows as in Koster's vacuform. I look forward to how the aft fuselage and empennage are made.
    1 point
  45. Casting numbers now added to one of the fan housings. These are somewhat abbreviated, as there wasn't really room for the rest, but it's still a nice touch, regardless. Even at only 1/16" tall, these Plastruct letters/numbers are a bit too big, but I can't justify spending $16 for the Archer set right now, so I'll just use what I have to hand. I'll sand these down somewhat too, as has been suggested.
    1 point
  46. LSP_K2

    Trumpeter 1:16 Jagdtiger

    After one coat of surfacer and some minor stippling (on the mantlet). I think from what I see here, this method will be more than satisfactory.
    1 point
  47. Using my newly acquired wood putty (I have no idea what happened to the last tub), I’ve filled in some voids on the plywood base, so that I can begin adding the iron-on walnut veneer. As it turns out, I missed a couple small areas that need some attention, so I'll be doing those now.
    1 point
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