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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/10/2020 in all areas

  1. So, I haven't forgotten about modeling, but things have been weird these past couple weeks! Go figure?! More progress on the interior. I need to get some instrument decals coming to fill in the blanks Trumpeter left me, so if you have suggestions on where to buy and brand, shout it out. It's not a lot of progress, but progress none the less. Feel free to point out errors or things that can be added......and yep, there are a couple pieces still missing on the sidewalls (throttle and antenna wire spool).
    13 points
  2. A Dora build???? Do tell! Is it the Hasegawa 1/32 scale kit? Some fill work around the oil cooler intake... The wings have been glued together. Test fitting the wings to the fuselage... The canvas covers have been glued into place...
    12 points
  3. discus

    Mirage 2000C 1/32 KH

    Hello The lock down built... and a bit more since we are unlocked since 11th may in France. A lot was already said on this kit: weird/wrong choices on some parts (extended slats only forcing to some surgery to correct this), many mistakes in the instruction sheet (wrong part items, left and righ side inverted, etc) poor decal sheet, etc. Anyway, in the end the kit is not so bad. It is rather a good one and I had a lot of fun building it (despite the negs mentioned above). One important thing when building a KH kit: you need to be well documented. The box is full of stuff but if you want to be accurate you need to do some research by yourself. I used decals from Berna. One slight issue; the white background on the stencils is misaligned and is visible. but it is still way better than the original sheet from the kit. As I did not wanted for the Eduard Pe to be available for the seat harness, I decided to use the pilot provided with the kit. It is quite nice, I just added a visor screen on the helmet and with some leftover PE from previous kit I DIY'd the seat belts and harnesses. Paints are as usual handbrushed. The new thing is that I used Xtracolors instead of the usual Humbrols. (Because the Humbrol are now more cr*p than paint...) I left one week between each coat to be sure it was really dry so the whole painting process is quite long. But its worth waiting, the Xtracolors give a really nice result. For the color, the is a highly scientific random mix... The Mirage 2000 colors are really difficult to catch and they change a lot with the ligh/shadows. Light grey: X395+X136+x141 (60%-30%-10%). X395 is supposed to be mirage 2000 light grey but I found it too dark and not blue-ish enough so I added some light compass grey x136 and lightened with a bit of white. Blue grey: X396+X124 (60%-40%). X396, same thing, it is supposed to be Mirage 2000 dark blue grey but it looked greenish in the can soI mixed it with blue fs15109 (X124). Radome is in Humbrol 64 and engine exhaust in Humbrol metalcote. Edit: for the wing pylons : Hu 56+Hu 24 (75%-25%) and the missiles Hu196. I am looking forwar to get my hands on the twin seater. And just for fun, showing the different between 1/32, 1/48 et 1/72 There is also a noticeable difference in the quality of the built..
    11 points
  4. Ted Barrett

    Revell ME 110C

    Hi Guys, Hope the picture works. It's been a long time since I used Imgur and I'm not sure about how to do it...lol!
    8 points
  5. mark31

    Su-25UB

    few steps further in the build now again time for filling and sanding Mark
    7 points
  6. I've been taking a break from the build to work on another subject, but here is where I am for the time being. I still have some touching up to do, but not too much further to go. Cheers, Tom
    7 points
  7. spacewolf

    positive WNW info ?

    Not trying to stir the pot... I ordered a kit from WNW just as the shutdown and controversy happened. I figured one way or another that in time all would come clear. This morning I finally got an E-mail from them.. looks like they are shipping my kit shortly. ....." Hi Vaughn Due to the global freight issues we are experiencing, we are choosing to send your order via Fedex which allows for tracking of the package. This is at no extra cost to you as we appreciate the delay you have experienced and we want to ensure your order arrives safely at your door. To send a package via Fedex we do require a contact phone number. Could you please send that through to us and we can get your order on the way to you. We will then be in touch with tracking details. Best wishes Rachelle " In my dreams it's a positive sign they 'might' be coming back... in reality it's most likely they are just clearing the last orders from existing stock... but at least something is happening.
    6 points
  8. Ever since I started to build the Echelon E E Lightning F6 vacuform kit, and found it so well engineered and enjoyable, I've been looking around for their other iconic British jet, the Hawker Hunter. Similarly as rare as hen's teeth, the only one I've seen for sale was in California and they rejected my (I thought) reasonable offer a few months ago. But casually browsing eBay last week.......lo and behold one of my Holy Grails, in Britain and with a starting price of £10.00! There were only two serious bidders in contention and I got it for half the price I was willing to go to. It arrived today, I'm absolutely thrilled! Apart from the decals (which I wasn't planning on using anyway) it's in mint condition which, for its age, is a miracle. I won't be building it for a while, too many other models on the go, but it's a certainty for 2021.
    6 points
  9. Trumpeter Harrier II AV8B
    6 points
  10. Been working on the upper turret, I decided to sand all the ribbing off except for the gun barrel openings, I am trying to make it look more like the "common" Martin turret domes. I had some Eduard 50 cal guns so I decided to switch out the kit guns for them and some brass barrels. I also had to add a gun sight, Hobby Boss made the arms that hold it but didn't bother to make anything to go between them.... I finally was able to go to my office and do a little 3D drawing, I made a new engine crankcase to go with the cobbled up B-17 engine cylinders, drew them up this morning and 3 hours of printing later have 8 of them. I decided to take one set of parts , paint them and assemble them to get a good look at the progress, still have to wire it and put a propeller governor on it. The great thing is I found that if I didn't put the rocker arm covers on the cylinder heads, the engine fits right into the nacelles snug, just had to do a quick knife out of the rib inside the front of the nacelles(this rib holds the kits engines).
    6 points
  11. Thanks a lot, compared to many guys here I'm like a kid who just learned to color inside the lines! some work done on the nose gear, work still in progress. moving some furniture in to the office Thank you for looking
    6 points
  12. discus

    Yak 3 Special Hobby 1/32

    Hello, Here are some picts of a kit I completed some time ago (before lock down and all this mess) It was a fun built of a nice looking plane but this was mostly a test kit : I've always used Humbrol paints since the beginning. But since some time quality dropped below acceptable: they are not covering enough, pigments form a mash in the can... So I moved to Xtracolors (still a stinky enamel unfortunalty but since I used brushes, it is difficult to find a good acrylic) Although I read a lot on forums about the drying time necessary for these paints, I learnt it the hard way when applying the second layer, I saw the firt layer peeling off.. That's why I wanted to have a test kit for these paints before using them on the KH Mirage 2000 because mistakes on this one was not an option I think I am seduced by the xtracolors and I used them succesfully on the Mirage 2000 (you just need to be patient between two coats. I still would like very much to find an acrylic that I can properly use with brushes. Back on the kit itsel, it is oob with decals a mix from the box and a Berna sheet for the Normandie-Niemen Squadron (French Aces in Russian Air Force)
    5 points
  13. Finished up the upper turret this morning, happy with the results, I think that it looks much better with all the frame work sanded off the dome, I also sanded the top of the dome a little flatter as the earlier martin turrets were, I was a little apprehensive to sand too much as I didn't want to go through the top...
    5 points
  14. Hasn't been much modelling going on recently unfortunately! Just a short update, next layer of weathering on the undersides using oils. Those bare wheel wells hurt my eyes, but I committed to doing this as a heritage build sans AM so I'm going to have to live with it. Hopefully people won't look under the model very often!
    5 points
  15. hey folks Hi Levier - that is what I thought, so that is what I have done for now Thanks Alain - yes, I saw the radiator is different and have started making up those shapes, once the PE arrives I can sort it out So while I wait for the PE, a few little things done.. ..the big under fuselage airscoop needed a resin nose so I could hollow it out so this was thrown in a mould.. ..then cast and starting to drill out the waste.. ..and it's good enough to skin when the time comes.. ..also the cowl was reshaped as the front opening was a bit too wide.. also added fake cowl flaps so I can get the positioning of the radiator and the rounding of the fuselage under them.. and here my nice 3D fuselage front has been reworked, the centre spigot made bigger and the exhaust port openings made up.. ..the 3D radiator was split in two and a spacer added to get the right width.. ..that was then skinned in brass until the PE turns up.. ..so now the spacing internally in the cowl is correct.. ..the spinner was next, a backplate detail was made with rivet detail.. ..this was then painted RLM 66 (hope thats right..) ..then rivets added and an alclad basecoat.. and I decided for now to shoot the spinner black and wire wool it to see some of the rivet detail.. ..for the blades, I scaled a good profile picture and looked at whether I could repurpose either the Hobbyboss or the 21st Century Toys blade to suit.. ..decided on the Fw190D blade and stuck the profile to the blade and dremelled away the difference.. ..and after finishing a master, I cast 3 more.. ..and the prop is nearly finished - I still need to add all the PE parts at the base of each blade (pitch controls?) they are notched discs present on most blades.. ..just waiting for the PE now before I can really get started.. TTFN Peter
    5 points
  16. Hey all- not much to show..still riveting along, but I needed to pull the tail wheel assembly together before I close up the fuselage. many Pavehawks have wheel and strut parts painted in the standard Army helo drab- an interesting contrast against the USAF Gunship grey- This part not done, but close! the wheel is an aftermarket from Resicast- cheers Pete
    5 points
  17. And as if by magic here is a little update. The kit has a separate tail, probably to allow for other versions, the instructions would have you join the two tail parts and add them after the fuselage was joined, however looking at several other builds people have joined the fuselage and tail halves first. This made a lot of sense to me as a small gap in the fuselage top and bottoms seam would be easier to sort out than a join line in the fuselage, if that makes any sense. So that is what I did and it worked great. Cheers Dennis
    4 points
  18. $30 USD for the basics. Rick
    4 points
  19. Hi all, The top decking panel has its photo-etch panels fitted (the quarter turn fasteners will be fitted later). I'd previously fitted photo-etch hinges to the panel, however the 'Brengun' photo-etch panels include these hinges. Also the tail skid support brackets are fitted. Well, I thought I'd covered all the necessary changes before starting the build. However I've found other changes that need to be done. The right fuselage half from the kit has a scooped vent, which was not fitted to the early D.III, so that was removed and filled. That allowed me to fit the two photo-etch side access panels, which again are different in desin from those fitted to the later D.III. The kit fuselage halves are missing a panel join at fuselage former E - this needs to be scribbed onto the fuselage halves. The underside vented panel is different from the later D.III, which had two scooped vents fitted. The early D.II had no vents, but an access panel was fitted. This means the photo-etch panel supplied with the 'Brengun' set is not correct for this model, so I'll probably modify the kit panel. The left fuselage half from the kit has a poorly moulded pilot's foot step, which in reality was a retractable to close off when not in use. The kit location for the foot step is incorrect as it's too high above the lower wing root. I'll fill this foot step and create a new one. Apart from that it's plain sailing so far!!! Mike
    4 points
  20. And here's a view of the other rear fuselage section. I still have to add the radio tray and supports plus a basic box to depict the radio. As you can see I created a false floor over the fuselage bottom. This was required to hide the plastic tabs I added to strengthen the seam between the fuselage halves. I put a section of plastic card in hot water and put it on the small diameter glass bottle to cool while being secured with rubber bands. This gave the correct curvature to simulate the belly before adding the strips. Here as well, tons of dry fit attempts were required to be sure the strips of the port fuselage were correctly aligned with the belly ones. This will probably be barely visible but I also added the flare launcher tube.
    4 points
  21. So having gone back and dealt with that seam, we're on to painting. Because I'm still new to this hobby and trying to learn methods that work well in my hands, I'm going to try something a bit new. Because this plane will have an overall monochrome finish (Tamiya IJA Gray), I'm going to try to achieve some interesting tonal variation by dint of pre-painting ahead of that final color coat, rather than doing the base color first and then trying to modify over the top of it. What I'm thinking is to: First underpaint the fabric-covered control surfaces to emphasize the 'shadows' between the structural ribs. I'll do that dark tone with olive drab, then overlay white over the whole surface so it will end up lighter and "khaki-er" than the main IJA Gray color. Then pick out some random panels or panel sections and paint them white, or very light gray, so they'll be lighter And then pick some others (primarily the access panels and hatches) and paint them a somewhat darker gray than the base color of the plastic, so they are subtly darker when overpainted with the final color. Outline all the panels in an even slightly darker gray. Do a black enamel wash to pull out the panel lines and rivets. Carefully, patiently build up the the top color so I can get it to just the right level of opacity that the tonal variation just peeks through. I'm kind of going out on an experience-free limb on this, but the good thing is that if it looks terrible I can always just lay on more IJA Gray until it disappears. Here's the initial attempt at taping off the areas to get a lighter undercoat. And after the process of taping off all of the ribs in the control surfaces. Before I start on this I'm going to do a little bit of practicing with my brand-new 0.2 mm Mr Hobby airbrush. I bought it as a complement to the 0.5 mm Iwata that I've been using for the last couple years, in anticipation of wanting to do more detail painting in the future.
    4 points
  22. The detail painting is complete and the parts are ready to be put together, the Aero detail book was invaluable for this, as normal I used cocktail sticks to pick out the small details as I find this easier that using a brush. All the parts laid out ready to go. Detail shots which as usual show up the missing paint and bad bits. The instrument panel using MDC Decals All ready to go Cheers Dennis
    4 points
  23. Thanks for staying with this one chaps! Whilst I continue to finish and the top fuselage surface, in a rare moment of free time I thought I'd make some progress on the wings, or more the point, the wing lighting. F-15s have three lights on each wing and I've approached each differently for differing reasons. All of the light areas required considerable thinning of the plastic (which is quite thick on this kit) to make room for the light sources and especially the wiring. I also thinned the training edge while I was at it (a scale 4cm thick!). The wingtip formation lights need to match the other ones so EL tape was used. As the light has a top and bottom (and EL tape only lights on one side) I had to create two pieces then sandwich them together. This turned out to be a real pita! Mainly because trying to rewire them once you had cut them to shape was not easy. I had to get special small crimps that I wasted about 50% trying to find the sweet spot between the two layers of phosphorous. Any overlap and they short out and one layer as only 2mm wide! I also wasted a fair amount of EL tape on failed connections as I realised a bit too late that trying to solder the wires on when the crimps were already in place just melted the plastic surround and shorted the circuit again! So, solder wire to crimp, carefully apply both crimps ensuring no overlap, connect battery and pray! I also shortened the wires as they were too long and joined two into one to reduce the number of connectors in the fuselage. Needless to say this was a bit of a leap of faith as if they didn't light when reconnected that was a lot of time and effort wasted. (Luckily it did - huge sigh of relief!) The wing tip navigation light is fibre optic as an LED would be too bright in that area and it reduces the overall power consumption (not much but every little helps when your using low voltage). This will be lit by one white LED light (which I'm using to light other fibre optics) as I'm using coloured plastic rather than multiple coloured light sources. Finally, the wing-root light is an LED as its quite visible and bright on the real aircraft. The black is to cut out light overspill. In case your wondering (I know I would be!) the square plastic is there to act as a support to the top wing so that when I attach the pylons later it should reduce flex and promote a good fit. Well that's the theory anyway.
    3 points
  24. Great work again Pat! Your crankcases look far better than my efforts! Craig
    3 points
  25. Good show, John. Being raised in Virginia I too had painted nails and wood paneling just like that! Sincerely, Mark
    3 points
  26. Love the pic! Gives me flashbacks - my workbench as a kid was also the floor with newspaper spread out! Wheel wells look terrific BTW!
    3 points
  27. To put that awesome comment into persepctive, this is from 2008 when Mike Grant's Smoke-rings caused an uproar among simpler minds that insisted they would kill the hobby: http://www.hyperscale.com/2008/reviews/decals/mgdmugreviewse_1.htm D
    3 points
  28. A little (slow) progress. I had to make some plunge mould tools to replicate the (handed) cockpit elbow room 'blisters'. However, my wood is packed away, so what could I use as a substitute? The answer was to use a piece from an old demolished plant trestle frame, which appears to be made of a honeycomb type imitation plastic wood material (needs must!).
    3 points
  29. What? No one likes the retro pic? Too personal? Ok... back to business... I fiddled with the resin prop yesterday. I used a piece of aluminum tube to serve as the prop shaft. The Barracuda jig that helps line up the prop blades to spinner also comes with a guide to center the hole in the back of the prop. The hole came out a little messy but it is centered. The prop assembly is a friction fit so that I can remove it for shipping. The blades still need to be removed from their casting blocks and cleaned up. Jumping over to the wings, I noticed a nice manufacturing touch... Hasegawa thoughtfully prints the part number on the back of the radiator faces. Saves me the trouble of scratching them on myself. The wheels wells were primed using Mr Primer Surfacer 1000. The packaging states that it can be used on metal surfaces. I then sprayed the wheel wells RLM 02 Grey over a black base just to try and get some tonal depth. I added a small drainage pipe to the front edge of the oil cooler intake. The intake has been riveted.
    3 points
  30. A bit done in the office using the Daco book for info and other builds found here. My paint work looks kind of rough in the pictures but better in real life (my story and I'm sticking to it) Thanks for looking
    3 points
  31. Thanks guys! Before I give an update on this build, I wanted to share this photo that my wife had on her phone. I must be around 10-12 years old... early 70's in Virginia. Building a model with some fishing rods in waiting behind me. Some things never change! I spent the weekend wrestling the RB Productions 109G-6 wheel wells into place. First step was to glue the small wheel bumps into place and fill the locating tabs as they can be seen through the open wheel well. Some preliminary removals were in order... the raised wheel well detail on the inside surface of the top wing and the wheel well walls from the wing bottoms. The removals are described in detail on the RB Productions instruction sheet, which is very detailed but the details in the photos, which are probably copies of copies of copies, are sometimes difficult to discern. A bending tool like this Small Shops Bug isn't absolutely necessary but is very useful in making folding easier and more uniform. Some bends take a little creativity and for this tricky u-bend, I used a strand of stiff plastic from a hairbrush to form the "u" around. The roof of the wheel well features several layers of brass to help increase the visual depth of the enhancement set. It usually takes a few iterations of fitting and shaving plastic to get these things into place properly. The main thing is to take your time and not force the brass since the pieces are quite thin and delicate. Once the fit is figured out, you can see how the new wheel wells look in place. I've elected to keep the u-shaped trough that houses the landing gear legs in plastic rather than using the brass piece. The oval openings were drilled out. The PE set provides an optional canvas covering that you sometimes see in the wheel wells of the Bf109. I think I'm going to use them, if I can work them into place. There is some inconsistency with the fit of the rear wheel well wall that the canvas cover will conveniently hide.
    3 points
  32. Got around to finishing the pilot's seats added some Eduard B-17 belts. I decided to put the seats in 2 different positions as the kit comes with both seats all the way back to the bulkhead, I simply put a piece of styrene strip in the back notch of the left hand seat rails and knifed in a new pair of notches on the front portion of the rails, just thought it would look a little interesting.... Also started putting the Eduard engine set parts into the back end of the engine nacelles, I was going to glue them into the nacelles but I realized it was easier to glue them onto the wings, they line up right on one of the kit panel lines, left to right is simply putting the kit nacelle in place and marking the location with a pencil...
    3 points
  33. Finally finished the wings other than thinning down the ailerons which will be easy compared to what was already done. I have moved onto the interior which is quite a few parts, for the most part all fits good except for a couple of the small bulkheads in the tail and the cockpit bulkhead, floor and instrument panel need to be reduced in width a little for the fuselage to close up. Also put the Eduard cockpit set in . I wanted to make the engines look a little better, I had purchased HK models B-17 engine sprues a while ago when this B-24 kit first came out, figured I would use the props and tires, hopefully the engines... Well I was able to take the cylinder rings and cut 2 cylinders off cutting center between the adjacent cylinders , then I sawed a notch in between the remaining 7 cylinders about half way through the ring and then gently bent them all until I had a smaller ring and glued the joint where the other 2 cylinders had occupied. Worked well and I did the same with the push rods. Unfortunately I haven't been to work still, I could draw a new crank case in 3D really quickly that would look more like it should and print them.. I also have Harold's AMS propeller governors that I added.
    3 points
  34. Thanks to Alfonso for some items he pointed out in Archers SBD-3 build, I've updated some items on my SBD-5. Removed the extra rear control stick and left the mounted spare on the port side. Painted the "gust lock" between the pilots rudder controls red and I also changed the rear outside flooring to look something like canvas on the rear of the cockpit. Probably need to weather this more to get a better look, still. Thanks for looking!
    3 points
  35. After many hours of careful study, placement, swearing profusely, and replacement, I finally managed to get some work done on this bad boy. This is freshly peeled, there’s a few minor touch ups required, paint bleeds etc, but damn! I reckon this turned out pretty spectacular too. Now all I gotta do is repeat the whole process for the underside
    2 points
  36. Finally got a bit of time for modeling. First up are the wing radiators. Unlike the relatively cumbersome radiators on the Lancaster, DeHavilland engineered a very elegant solution by installing the radiators in low drag housings on the inner wing leading edges. Tamiya offers decent photo etch for the radiators but I opted for aftermarket. RB's photo etch is very nice but more importantly, they include very nice PE carburetor inlet screens (part L3). For some weird reason, Tamiya opted to replicate these very visible screens in clear plastic! Not a good solution IMO. RB's service and pricing were first rate, they are highly recommended for anyone building the Tamiya Mosquito. Next up, I went back to the bomb bay. I'll be doing a lot of extra work in this area but most of it will be once the fuselage sides are installed. However, I just received some very nice photos that show the FB.VI bomb bay in detail (thank you Anthony!!!) and based on these, I was able to add a few more details at this stage of the build. More paintwork is required for those hydraulic lines at the base of the pic. The ends will be relocated once the wing is mated with fuselage. After this was done, I completed assembly of the wing. Tamiya provided a very strong internal framework that is screwed together. No chance these large wings will be working loose! I also added the upper portion of the engine firewalls. They come with very well detailed coolant lines. I hit the firewalls and coolant lines with a few oil washes to replicate the typical grunge found in these areas. Still a work in progress. Lastly, I also added a wash to the upper wheel wells. This is another area on aircraft that tends to be pretty dirty. I also applied some grey / brown pastels in this area. More work will be done here as well but so far I'm pretty happy with the way the weathering has brought this pretty basic area to life. Lastly, I dry fitted the wing to the fuselage. Did I mention that this model is big? Here's the full bomb bay, in all of it's glory. Interesting that a Mosquito could haul the same payload as a B-17, at a higher altitude and much higher speed. Very impressive engineering going on here. That's it for now. Thanks for looking!
    2 points
  37. This is 1/32 Hasegawa Spitfire Mk.1a with the markings of N3200 from Squadron 19. This aircraft was based at RAF Hornchurch and was detailed to patrol the Dunkirk area. This Mk.1a was shot down over Dunkirk on 26-05-1940 and forced to belly land on the beach west of Calais. Kit: Hasegawa Spitfire Mk.1 Modifications: Barracudacast seat Barracudacast Spitfire cockpit upgrade set Eduard PE cockpit set Archer fine transfer for fasteners on engine cowling. Masterdetails horizontal surfaces Eagle part Mk1 oil cooler Barracudacast cockpit door Quickboost exhaust and propeller set Barracudacast wheels Scale Aircraft Conversion Metal landing gear legs Paints: Gunze Sangyo acrylics
    2 points
  38. mark31

    Su-25UB

    Thanks just having fun now I have the mojo back for building a plane Thanks and yes not to many ub are being build Mark
    2 points
  39. Out2gtcha

    Su-25UB

    Amazing! Really looking good now Mark, starting to take shape
    2 points
  40. I think Ian at Heritage Aviation Models (aka Kits for Cash) did a 1:24 limited run a few years back.
    2 points
  41. With regard to the Dzus fasteners, you sometimes see them slightly protruding but in our scale, this is actually negligible. We will now have a look at the cockpit. I sanded as much as possible the fuselage internal sides as well as the external side of the resin inserts. In the end, the walls will be noticeably too thick but this is a side effect that can only be avoided with a fully scratchbuilt cockpit and I did not want to go to such an extreme. So, I will live with that! You will see that; 1. I removed the radio system (in the upper front corner of the pit, close to the IP location) as it was a later one. This will be replaced by Barracuda parts. 2. I extended the cockpit up to the tank and also in the rear fuselage as even if such areas will be barely visible, I hate the "black hole" syndrom on a kit. There is no need to detail too much such areas. However, as the rear fuselage was silver painted, some basic shapes will be possibly visible through the rear window and this is the only issue I want to solve. This took a lot of time to ensure everything will be correctly aligned when all parts will be mated together.
    2 points
  42. www.hasegawa-model.co.jp/product/08257 - Mitsubishi A6M5c Zero fighter 52 type 丙 “252nd Air Corps” w/air-to-air bomb The new bomb sprues: I guess the markings are new as well, aren't they? Juraj
    2 points
  43. While the paint cures on ‘Zeus’, I thought I’d wheel the other jet into the corrosion control centre. This has had a thinned coat of Vallejo white over an alcohol wiped surface. Followed up with Vallejo Model Air ‘Pinkish White’ which has had some shading and highlights applied before masking. Next up comes a coat of very slightly lightened ‘NATO Black’ which will allow me to panel shade and highlight again.
    2 points
  44. Hi all, The aircraft had padding protection for the pilot in three areas: Padding at the front of the cockpit decking. Padded headrest on the front of the fuselage fairing. Padding around the centre section cut out in the trailing edge of the upper wing. The padding on the headrest is moulded on the fairing but is slightly offset and hardly visible. The padding on the upper wing is not represented in the kit. I added both by using 'Milliput' two part putty. The ‘Brengun’ Siemens Schuckert D.III (BRL32014) photo-etch set has the parts to create a pilot’s seat. However I chose not to use those parts as photo-etch parts are in some cases too thin to be realistic. The pilot’s seat is such as case. Therefore I used the photo-etch seat back as a guide to drill out the kit supplied seat, then added a seat cushion made from 'Milliput', as the kit does not supply a cushion. That's the last modifications at this preparation stage, so now I can start the actual building phase. Mike
    2 points
  45. The picture was great! Two passions caught on camera. Just tied up all afternoon with the wife’s projects. I did manage to spray some black on a Dora 9 spinner. That was done on my five minute union break she allowed me to have between cutting down Palm tree leafs. Wings look awesome as usual. Troy
    2 points
  46. mark31

    Su-25UB

    tank you all more work done te cockpit is in and the fit is great only a bit off sanding to do also didt filling sanding and a test wit paint to see iff i did my job good still needs a bit off work but looks already good to me Mark
    2 points
  47. Hi again. Made a little more (slow) progress on the P-47. Did a little oil dot filtering, which isn't really showing up in the photos to well and a panel line wash before hitting the model with some Alclad flat clear. I think I will devote some attention to the smaller items while I let the clear set up for a couple days. Then I can hit it with some further weathering. The windscreen and canopy are just being held on by gravity. The gaps will disappear when they're fixed in place. It kind of a tricky model to weather I've realized mixing a well used fuselage with replacement wings. I'm running the risk of it looking like I forgot to weather the wings when I'm done. Thanks again for looking. Jeff
    2 points
  48. So its gonna be a 2 helicopter build vietnam dio. I have started on the H.43 until the conversion on h34 is done.
    2 points
  49. You should definately find 'A higher cause' and read it. With regards to the 'not all germans were nazi's' thing, it is something that interests me a lot. I considered writing a book on that topic, even started a little, but recently I stumpled over this book and that's pretty much what I wanted to write (I think, havent read it yet). Oh well - more time for modeling then Also this book is recommended on the mind of a well known opposer of Hitler
    2 points
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