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The foundation for this conversion is the "bulge" and that is what I have been working on yesterday and today. Because it takes so long for Milliput to harden, progress has been slow but I've finally reached a rough approximation of the what bulges will look like. Using the pieces of styrene as a guide and base, I've applied Milliput to build up the bulge and transition it back to the fuselage. The pieces of sheet plastic created some issues for me. I thought they were thin enough so they would conform to the curvature of the fuselage. I even took extra care of securing the top joint firmly with Tamiya Extra Thin cement, waiting that to cure and then gluing down the bottom joint. Still, the plastic sheet ended up being too flat and I've had to add a bead of putty down the middle of the white plastic to create a more uniformly curved surface. This took multiple applications of Milliput, with each of them allowing to cure at least 4-6 hours before sanding. In the down time, I ended up painting the seat from the Eagle Editions cockpit, which comes with two versions: one with belts and one without. I'll probably end up using HGW harnesses but I thought I'd see what the other seat would like like with a quick paint job. After a few iterations of puttying and sanding, I've gotten to a point where the bulge has been established and curvature of the sides of the fuselage have been restored. Unlike the GM resin fuselage, I've elected to transition the bottom edge of the raised area cleanly into the fuselage, creating a single "ridge" along the top edge and not a bulge with an upper and lower edge. This is based on the cross-sections of the D-13 in my Dora Volume 2 book. Time to shoot this sculpting exercise with the some primer to check my work. I used Mr Surfacer 1200 cut with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. Hey, where did the bulge go? That's what I thought after I sprayed the primer on. My result is much more subtle than the GM conversion. I can definitely see it in person and also feel it when I run my fingers over the model but it doesn't show up very dramatically in the photos. Is this a good thing or bad thing? The lack of panel lines or other details adds to the disappearing act and I think the rivet lines will accentuate the curvature. But the disruption camo pattern will do the opposite and help hide the surface curvature. I'm going to set this aside and think about it. There are some edges and transitions that need to be cleaned up... maybe during that process I'll end up liking my result a little more.

What better relief from frontline icu than to find a brand new kit on your doormat? Arrived today from the Ukraine, the new D500!

With LSP down for a few days, I'll have to fast forward some of the progress on the D-13 build that I've accomplished during that time. I was comparing the kit exhausts with the Quickboost resin versions. I started cleaning the sprue attachments and one thing led to another... I ended up hollowing out all of the kit exhausts. The hollowed ends are noticeably deeper than the dimples on the Quickboost set, which will be put back in the aftermarket box for a future build. I took another look at the Aires wheel wells. Some people here threw out some options and I thought I should give them consideration before giving up . For me, keeping the long bulkhead in correct relation to the wheel well was important so that the cannon mount on the bulkhead lined up with the hole for the gun barrel in the wheel well. So using that as a constant, the only other way to effectively increase the width of the wheel assembly was to cut it, which was one of Vincent's suggestions. I chose to cut it in half. The kit gun barrels are standing in for what will ultimately be brass tubing. The wheel wells are then placed into the lower wing using the gun barrel as the datum. This results in three small gaps but they really shouldn't be noticeable. The biggest effort about going in this direction was removing the wide casting block on the wheel wells... whatta pain. With the Blue Tack holding the wheel wells in place, I tape the upper wing halves into place. The gun barrels are correctly positioned. The gap in the center is the most noticeable but remember... there is a central exterior piece yet to be added. The Grey Matter part, with the single ammo chute fits very nicely (surprise!) and blocks the view into the wheel well. Now the gap is hardly noticeable. I think this is a good compromise to get the Aires wheel well to work. My only concern is the landing gear actuating arm. Since the distance between the landing gear mounting location and the wheel well has been increased, there is a good chance that the actuator will be too short. But that shouldn't be too hard to correct. Oh... and the sculpting process has started.

Here's an update- enjoy! I have enough material to do another, but I didn't want to flood the system.

Well - I do have some update photos I need upload following our downtime over the weekend, but that will have to be tomorrow now. Getting a lot higher on the learning curve with this material - and have some very positive things to report/illustrate. Still more fun modelling-wise that I've had for a while! Stay safe, Iain

While I'm working on the Spanish Harrier II, I finished an F-5E from Kitty Hawk. Bad at photographing models, I should buy a new camera and get some lessons... Anyway, here it is. This is the 6th Kitty Hawk kit I've made and this is the easiest by far. The T-28 and Kingfisher were really good, the Bronco, Sabre Dog and T-6 took more work. I've added a little detail to the cockpit, canopy and gun bay, I painted the tail. The blade antenna on the spine was replaced by the black GPS receiver. On the centreline is a external fuel tank, adopted from a brown aggressor. There was a bit of work to get the windscreen fitted - and some putty needed - but it turned out okay. The tubing on the seat and behind it is all scratched from different sized lead wiring. Masking the inside of the air intake was a pain, but worth the time. The panels and rivets from the kit are impressively nice. After painting and shading, just a wash is needed to get the details popping. The decals in the kit are great, but as mentioned, I didn't want to risk the decal for the vertical tail and painted it. Here's another photo of it; it was painted with Revell Aquacolors and some details in Gunze water colours. I saw a photo with part of the trailing edge flap in zinc chromate yellow, I thought that was a nice touch. And now, I get back to the Harrier II, I hope to finish it in a few months. Afterwards, I'll start a Mirage 2000D. That's one I've been waiting a long time to get and build. Haven't got it yet, but that just a matter of time. Ow, and I'm doing a little side project with a Ramjäger. I hope you like this Tiger II, sorry for the bad photos, the kit looks much better on my desk than in the photos. Keep building, everyone! Nic

Hello ! Made the NOSA for the two seater Mirage 2000 : Cheers Norbert

The website has been down for 48 hours. Why isn't this thing done!?

I did take another look at both the GM and Real Model D-13 cowlings. Most notably, the top flat section near the rear edge flares out more drastically on the GM cowling. Looking at the cowlings in profile... The Real Model cowling has a very noticeable curvature, while the GM profile is flatter. Looking at reference photos of the D-13, I can't see evidence of this pronounced curvature. It looks like each of the cowlings has its good points and bad points. The GM cowling fits better in my particular case, so I'm going with it.

And one more.. When I ordered. I now believe that I won't be seeing these kits,and have time to ask for a refund. Hi, Thank you for your interest in placing an order with Wing Nut Wings. We just wanted to acknowledge receipt and confirm that we’ll be in touch when we’re in a position to resume sales. Best wishes,

Agreed. I used some of them on my Hellcat years ago, along with some painted markings, and they look about the same in the end.

Hmm bit annoying they posted upside down but never mind... the box is sturdy and surprisingly small. Sprues all in one bag, but well wrapped and unable to move in the box. PE and masks for canopy in there too. whole package is very reminiscent of special hobby. Good detail, no locator pins. Some sprues for detail parts are a degree more refined. Tiny amount of flash. Surface detail reminiscent of the IBG PZL- tremendous! decals look amazing the prop looks a little anorexic to me. I might swap that but we shall see. impressions; it’s got bigger spats than Clark Gable. It look more french than Edith Piaf. a superb little offering. I will get straight on it after my new CSM Nieuport 21. it will be compulsory to listen to Django Rheinhardt whilst building this one!

I've never been close enough to a Mk I to say for sure, but I think you're right about the u/c bay sides being vertical on that wing type, and slanted for the later universal wings. It makes sense when you visualise the planes (no pun etc) the wheel is moving through as it retracts.

GM cover is very bad, here is photo of real D-13 cover

Thank you very much, that's what I am aiming for! More progress, although you cant see them in the photo's very well (if at all) I have made terminal blocks that the lamp is wired into, plus a suppressor box behind that, with wiring already started. The .303's are fitted permanently and given a bit of a wash and graphite rubbed on etc. Now I have to wire up the last of the pneumatic lines for the firing solenoids. After that I need to glue in the wiper motor, Impact and Gravity switches ready for wiring up as well. That part scares me, all those tiny wires..... The nose cap is obviously not glued on yet, but the .303's sat in place and lined up perfectly central through each opening/port when nose cap placed firmly on. I still have to do a couple of 'tweaks' to the rivet detail before I will be happy Still lots to do in here, but 'slow and steady wins the race' they say. Roberts gun bay set is absolutely gorgeous I must say....thank you sir! Cheers Anthony

Time to inspect a new aftermarket item. This is the Aires Wheel Well set for the 190D. Aires casts some of the most intricate resin bits that I've run across and this one is no exception. The wiring detail is almost TOO fine. Since the Hasegawa wheel wells are separate inserts, it should be a plug-n-play replacement and there shouldn't be any messy removals to deal with besides removing some hefty casting bases. Note that the Hasegawa wheel wells has almost all of the details as the Aires parts but they are not as finely rendered. So the deficiency is not one of omission but execution, which may be relevant. The kit wheel well insert is integral to a spar that helps maintain the correct spacing between the upper and lower wing parts. Grafting the spar into place with the Aires wheel well parts should not be an issue. When I place one of the Aires wheel wells into place, I start to notice some issues. With the skinny end of the Aires part butted up directly against the landing gear base, the holes for the wing guns do not line up correctly. And the wide end of the part doesn't reach the end of the wing part like the kit piece does. As if the Aires part is undersized. The three major components of the Aires set fit positively with one another so I temporarily glued them together using CA glue. And then took measurements using a Micrometer. Centering the Aires wheel well onto the wing bottom reveals the gap caused by the undersized wheel well, which is actually not a huge issue in my book. I'm more worried about the alignment of the wing gun holes. The Aires wheel well parts are definitely undersized. I COULD get them to work, if I wanted to. But I'm thinking that the enhancement in detail is not worth the effort. I also have this... which could be used to spice up the Hasegawa wheel well a little. I'll think about it. The first step to establish the fuselage bulge has been taken. Instead of randomly slathering some putty, I want to use sheet styrene as a form to help establish some consistency.

Due South was a lot of fun. Not in the same class as NbNW, obviously.

Thanks for that, I might revisit it in the near future and see if I can do a better job...advice taken! In the meantime I have been getting all the gun bay main components sorted and hope to start painting some more of these bits. Once they are all set up I can then start making some terminal blocks and a supressor box so I can finish off all the wiring and plumbing, then some decals Thanks for looking in as always Cheers Anthony

Oh John, take no note of my photography skills, I am the worlds worst. I tried DSLR and depth of field was crap, so just use my iPhone (its only a 6S+) and try for some natural light. Here is a classic example of how crap I am, just took this for you....and I tried to do a good job! LOL see...

Hi Tomcatfreak for now testing new 3d printer for better masters

Hi friends Continue detailing the 3d printed nose-cone for mig-29 by a hand:

Hi again guys. Here we have some "spy" photos of WIP of noses and also all front part of the fuselage of mig-29 and 21. The new plan of Stan is to re-work and release the all nose-section, not only the radome-part: Stan - The Man and his baby And the WIP of 1/32 scale Mig-21 BiS: Also re-work the all nose-section, the back also and soon will start the new resin canopy Thanks for watching friends. Cheers

Hi friends The new decal sheet for 29's cockpit is ready and printed by Begemot for CWS: You can ordered from Click Here And some news from the CWS kitchen - the 3D printed master-correct-shaped-nose for Mig-29 and Mig-21 at 32'nd scale are already here: Soon Stan will begin with detailing of masters Cheers guys

Hello guys Some shots of test dry fit of new photo-etched parts for mig-29 1/32 : And new 3d-printings: Cheers friends

First test print for the MIG-29 wheel wells in 1/32 scale: And some "WIP" pictures of how to take of the right measurements for new mig-21 1/32 goodies

Hello friends, it is time for some WIP pics These are shots of the 3D project for the MIG-29 wheel wells in 32'nd scale - both for Trumpeter and Revell kits.These are basic structures. More details will be added and then printed. After that it is time for clean up and assembly Cheers friends

Hello friends FINALLY the crisis with the MiG-29 clear resin canopies in 1/32 scale for Trumpeter is over! The remaining pre-orders will be shipped tomorrow and the coming Tuesday. Thank you for your patience! Now the CWS32003 - MiG-29 9.12 cockpit for the Trumpeter kit in 1/32 scale is officially available.

Hello friends Just add couple of pics of the mig-29 9.12 set for 1/32 trumpeter kit: As the clear parts will be done and excellent enough for our taste, the pre-order status will be changed at in-stock and ready to ship Cheers guys