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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/18/2020 in all areas

  1. This time the model with Polish markings. MiG-29 UB "4105" Personally, I really like the two-seater version of the MiG-29 so I took the model for the workshop. The Trumpeter model will not cause you much trouble, it is quite simple to build. As always, the model was built straight from the box.
    22 points
  2. Wanted to challenge my airbrushing skills to improve, so I grabbed this kit off the shelf and set off. Now when it comes to the He 219, my research showed the same 4-5 paint schemes from NJG squadrons in 1944 and 1945. I thought....there was ~250-300 of these aircraft out there...I'll airbrush a scheme that is close....but not exactly like a aircraft in the reference photos. So I figured here is a HE 219, toward the end of the war...the pilots took delivery of a grey squiggle painted bird, but wanted the local squadron folks to paint the lower parts of the aircraft black. Then after a P-47 attack on the airbase, someone came along and painted RLM 83 all over the top of the aircraft and pushed it into a tree line parking spot. Took about a week to construct the kit. OOB. Wine foil for seatbelts. Cheers Collin Here we go:
    13 points
  3. Jetmads have just posted renders of a forthcoming X-3 Stiletto over on Facebook. It's performance never matched its looks - but, boy, what a looker... It's a 'must have' for me! Iain
    13 points
  4. SB20

    Tamiya F-16

    Here is my Tamiya F-16. I really good friend gave me the kit anand it has been a wonderful reprieve from the world this past month. Only addition is a Quickboost seat and Two Bob's decals. Any F-16 expert could pick it apart but I had a ton of fun with it and I'm quite pleased with it.
    13 points
  5. The other Island mate, I'm near Palmy. Beautiful country! A little more progress. Now that the heavy lifting has been redone, I can now get back to adding some much needed interior detail. Luckily I was able to transfer most of the stuff I'd added to the original nose: I then made a start on adding some stuff on the right side. I'm in the process of building a new navigator's table and some other details. Getting good photos on early model noses in this area is quite hard. Usually there's the front and rear shots, which are dominated by the bombardier's chair. Feeling inspired after some lathe work my brother had been showing me, I finally got my own up and running and made the conical base that you see in a lot of early shots. Just playing around really, but it was good to do some lathe work. I then added this to a seat I'd previously made but stole from the radio room Starting to look a little more lively now. Cheers, Craig
    13 points
  6. Uncarina

    LSP Cockpits

    One of my favorite things to look at in an airplane is the cockpit, regardless of nationality or era. All of the intricacy and evolving design fascinates me. For that reason, I especially enjoy working on the cockpits in my builds, even thought they will be obscured to various extents when finished. Similarly, I love looking at the work others have put into theirs. I thought it might be worthwhile for us to share the cockpits of our various builds in one place, as opposed to digging into the various WIP's out there. To get things started, here are a few of mine: F-117: Ki-45 Toryu: HO-229: P-40E: Sopwith Snipe: P-47D: Hawker Typhoon: A-6A Intruder: F4U-1D Corsair: Cheers, Tom
    12 points
  7. Hey guys! With my G-6/AS wrapped up and me not exactly enjoying wrestling with the Ta152H build, I thought it would be a good opportunity to start on a new project. I've had my eye on a G-14 and was originally planning on waiting for AMUR Reaver to produce a G-14 cowling for the Revell G-6 kit. But a Hasegawa G-14 kit popped up on EBay with some interesting extras so I pounced on it and here we are! This is the kit and also a nice painting of the scheme that I will doing: Hartmann's white G-14 (or G-6). The kit was opened but not started yet and included a nice assortment of aftermarket stuff, which is shown below and will be delved into detail towards the end of this post. Here are the obligatory sprue shots. The parts bags on this kit were still sealed. I'm going to use as few of the kit decals as possible. I'll scan the sheet and create custom masks for the larger markings. Digging into the "extras" that came with this kit we find what looks to be an extra clear canopy part. Always good to have spares when it comes to clear parts! These cream resin parts came in a Eagle Parts package labelled Fw 190A spinner and wide prop blades. There was no spinner and I can't ID the prop blades except to say that they are not appropriate for my build. The wheels look like the smooth hub late 109 type but I may not be able use them if the flattened part is not in the right spot. The resin exhausts seem to be a drop in fit for the Hasegawa fuselage so these will be used. Another surprise is a set of Hasegawa 109G/K wings with thewide wing bulges. I'm pretty sure Hartman's G-14 featured the smaller bulges but it's a good option to have. This one is a mystery. It looks like a resin cowling and spinner for an Avia S-199? A very small plastic baggy housed this MDC replacement tailwheel for the 109G. Very nicely molded! This cockpit is going to be fully loaded because I have TWO great sets for the interior. One is the Eduard Photoetch Interior for the G-14 with a complete, multi-part assembly for the instrument panel. The other is the MDC G-14 resin cockpit set with lots of extra parts. Only one cockpit floor but I count six sidewalls, three rear sills, and three central cannon breech covers in two styles. The instrument panel is resin and a decal for the instrument faces is provided. The resin molding on this MDC product is excellent! There is a photoetch fret that gives the builder the option of complete seat belts or just the buckles if the modeler wants to use a more flexible material like foil. I may play with that option just to break away from the HGW belts I've been using all the time. MDC provides a two-page instruction sheet for the cockpit set. Simple but thankfully legible. First step will be taking a closer look at the Eduard and MDC cockpit add-ons and try to determine which items from which set will be used in this build.
    11 points
  8. Let's see - it's been a month. The world has changed. I hope you are all well and have stayed clear of the virus. I gotta say - were it not for my shelter-at-home status I would not have made this much progress. Recall I am in cylinder mode. I decided to go finish off the front row before the back row - it was a marathon. Here is a shot of the front row in process, with my handy dandy cylinder location fixture: The little pegs are designed to insert into the exhaust and intake ports in the back of the cylinder heads. You may ask why I need a locating fixture if I have holes in the engine block and metal rods in the cylinders. Well, the holes in the engine block are not particularly accurately located. The exhaust and intake pipes that will protrude from the rear of the front row cylinders have extremely tight clearances with the aft row cylinders. So I need tight controls on cylinder location, and I felt tooling up the exhaust and intake ports would be the best way to do it. The rods in the cylinders are smaller diameter than the holes in the engine block, so there was room to slide the cylinders around a bit. We'll see. And finally - all nine front row cylinders are finished and mounted onto the engine block: What a milestone. That was labor intensive. The backside looks like this: My first R-2800 for the Thunderbolt had exhaust and intake port holes drilled as an afterthought. Looked positively awful until all the pipes covered everything up. This time - the ports are designed in very similar to the real thing. Next is a break. I need it. Then the aft row of cylinders and the exhaust and intake stacks. Should take about a month and some. Once done she is going to look a whole lot like a R-2800. Thank you for your patience, and stay well!
    10 points
  9. Hello everyone, i am starting this post with some parts of the build already done, this will be a OOB build, i will add just a few wires here and there, here is how the interior looks before the fuselage was close
    8 points
  10. fuselage is close, and i replaced the tail rotor transmission ventilation grill, and added texture to the walkways on top of the engines
    7 points
  11. Painting continues. I used a light grey first up which is actually pretty hard to see. I've also masked it off here to paint the green. Not bad. Nice, with only some minor touch up required. Test fitted the drop tanks and their addition will require yet more nose weight. I also worked out that a 1/35 44gal fuel drum fits in perfectly for the jet pipe. So I'll cut the end off and leave the bottom in, paint the outside metallic and the bottom of the drum red to simulate the FOD cover. Not quite to scale but it fits so that's all that counts.
    7 points
  12. Thanks guys! I've been using a mixture of Tamiya Black, Brown and Dark Grey. After the tires are painted, I start adding Tamiya Buff (or other light color) to the mixture that is already in the airbrush cup to gradually lighten the wear surfaces. I apply the lighter shades unevenly, using perpendicular wipes of the airbrush across the wear surface of the tires. Keeping the tires' flat finish, I stain the wear surfaces further using pastel washes. The Ta152H hasn't beaten me but I'm taking a slight breather from the battle. I did get the tailwheel painted up though...
    7 points
  13. Out2gtcha

    LSP Cockpits

    I love pits! One of the coolest areas you can model IMHO. Tons of chances for detailing additions. A few of my favorites.............. F7F OV-10D Extra 330SC F104D
    6 points
  14. Now starts, the nightmare, working with the color black, it is not easy to get a nice look, and even worse is to photograph it, but to me it looks ok, i did some test on the tail, and at the second attempt i think a got it right
    6 points
  15. Apology's for the lack of updates, as with the majority of us I've been in lockdown since 27th March. During this time been working on an "isolated GB" on another forum. Anyway, back to the PR Spit. After some time toing and froing with the pilot decided to go without and dug out a Barracuda seat for this build. The pilot was going to hide quite a bit of the extra work I'd put into the pit so in some ways defeated the object of all the work. I'm also still awaiting the PE parts from Alley Cat for marking the camera bay positions. Somewhat frustrating to say the least as I have all the resin bits just no PE, despite several emails. I will probably have to 'freestyle' the camera bays on this one, otherwise it will never be done. Added some washes to dirty it up a bit and now about to dig out some belts and install the oxygen bottles on the rear shelf. Aaron
    6 points
  16. This is my recently completed conversion of the 1/32 Revell Bf109G-6 kit into a Bf109G-6/AS using the AMUR Reaver resin cowling. Incliuding the AMUR Reaver cowling, I added the following aftermarket items into the build: 1. AMUR Reaver Bf109G-6/AS resin cowling and supercharger intake 2. Aires Bf109G-6 resin cockpit 3. Barracuda Bf109F-G-14 resin prop and spinner 4. Barracuda Bf109G resin wheels, ribbed tire/smooth hub 5. Barracuda Bf109G resin exhausts 6. Synthetic Ordinance Works Bf109G resin/metal landing gear legs 7. EagleCals Bf109G6 decal sheet #32-42 The national markings and swastika were painted using custom cut masks. AK Real Colors RLM 76 Version 2 was used for the external colors. The complete build log can be found here...
    5 points
  17. Hi guys, here's one I completed a couple of months ago. Just hadn't got around to posting. Montex Masks, HGW seatbelts, Master Model brass gun barrels, Tamiya Acrylics, Vallejo metal colours, AK Interactive washes, lead wire, homemade wood effect decals.
    5 points
  18. Dragon

    LSP Cockpits

    Great idea and amazing work everyone! I went looking through my WIP pics, and surprisingly, I only have one pic of a cockpit I've done. It's for the Tamiya F-4J, that still sits on the shelf of stalled projects.
    5 points
  19. pennausamike

    LSP Cockpits

    Given the amazing work shown thus far, if there isn't a minimum quality standard, I'd offer my Revell F-4 cockpit. I put a lot into to it to have more than six sides and an open view into the body of the model. There is a lot of scratchbuilding to create a COMPLETE cockpit, more so than an accurate one. This is meant to be a conversion of a recon Phantom I bought at a toy liquidators for seven bucks to an F-4E , many years ago.
    5 points
  20. One of the intriguing things (at least for me) how the Eduard instrument panel would compare with the MDC resin. As I was looking at it, I was amazed by the resolution of the color printing. There are painted details on this thing like tiny labels above certain instruments that would be impossible to replicate. And it didn't have that odd fabric texture that you often see on Eduard pre-painted panels. Yes, the color is still off but even that looked better than the obviously purple shade I'm used to getting from Eduard. Since the G-14 is an older kit, the question has to be asked... has Eduard's quality actually declined over the years? My preferred IP representation is PE face layered with separate instrument bezels backed by a clear acetate with the printed instruments gauges. I also like resin IP faces that you populate with instrument gauge decals. My least favorite has been the all-PE approach due to the reasons stated in the first paragraph. But since this one looked different, I was interested to see what the Eduard IP would look put together. Due to the number of small parts, the Eduard panel took a few hours to assemble. I used Future as an adhesive, which can be a reluctant glue when you're attaching parts that aren't 100% flat. It's not complete as there are a few switches that I've not glued on yet but it gives us a good look at what the MDC panel is going up against. Obviously, the resin still has the physical advantage of 3D relief but I'm very impressed with the Eduard IP! Just starting to fiddle around with the MDC cockpit. The resin here looks excellent. There is just no way that a photoetch set can match the physical oomph of quality resin.
    5 points
  21. Cheetah11

    USAAFE F-15C

    The top and bottom halves joined so painting can begin. I was fortunate enough to see a real F-15 close up at the Dutch Military Museum in 2017 and tried to replicate the bare metal parts on the fuselage with Alclad ,weathered with thin Tamiya Lacquer. In a one and a million chance I found the missing gear leg. Actually my wife found it outside. The torque links had been nibbled away and there were teeth marks on the primer coat. I scratched the new torque links and it is now good to go. Next to the Tamiya part is the superfluous scratch build part. A day of modeling wasted, but a lot learned on designing in TinkerCad. I have a prime suspect in mind for this near disaster but he is not confessing and keeping a poker face. Happy modeling Nick
    5 points
  22. Hi team Was wondering if anyone out there in the big wide world might be able to help with the restoration of a combat veteran P-40N "Gloria Lyons" there is a waterslide decal that went on the rear decking of these machines. The team has a drawing but not the SK drawing which would stipulate colours and size used. The remains of what they have and have seen are almost completely faded to nothing. Rather than explain everything here in detail, it's best I send you this link https://rnzaf.proboards.com/thread/28415/p40-kittyhawk-water-slide-transfer The usual places have been contacted, but to no avail. Places like Air Corps Aviation etc have nothing......anyone help?? It would be HUGELY appreciated!! Cheers Anthony
    4 points
  23. LSP_Ray

    LSP Cockpits

    Here is my only one I have access to right now. HK Do-335B-2: Here is IP (one on right I will use. Its Yahu on left, Eduard on right):
    4 points
  24. Thanks guys, I'll do my best to do it justice but keep in mind I want it to be quick also.... Here some work I did this week. Will a little wash, dry brush etc... it'll be fine, and MAYBE, a pilot, if I can find an easy way to fit it to a Quickboost seat... why not. Surface done, oups.... will need to fill those wing tank hole, not gonna use them. Intake done with some weight. never seen a 1/32 kit with so little parts, that's really gonna be a quick one. Oups, maybe I was too quick, need to fix that boubou.... An easy fit of the pit. The kit exhaust came out not bad and was planning to go on with them but HEY.... Decided to take a peek at those Aires I was saving for an F.3 kit, another project.... Oh boy, sweet..... Oh my my.... I think I'm gonna switch...lol. But will have to wait to finish them, I'm curruntly running out of Alclad. Planning to close the fuselage this week-end and also figuring out the pilot issue, is it doable without scrapping a nice seat or not... Hope you like it and have fun. Dan.
    4 points
  25. Not for me, but I'd like a pint of what the designer was drinking.
    4 points
  26. A few more views Most people will approach the windows on these kits by installing the inevitable clear plastic strips of window "plugs" that come with the kit, then sanding them flush, painting over, and applying decal windows. My strong preference is to leave them out, and once all painting is complete, use Krystal Kleer to make them in situ. The fit of the wing to the fuselage is really good - that's just test-fit above. I'm contemplating using this to paint the fuselage and wings separately and assemble them post-hoc. Thinking it may make masking easier.
    4 points
  27. Alex

    1/32 AVG Warhawk

    Decals on. I'll give 'em a few hours to fully dry, then obsessively poke each rivet with a pin before Micro-Sol-ing them to get them good and snugged down.
    4 points
  28. A small update to the topic
    4 points
  29. Stripes on the wings added.
    4 points
  30. Last autumn I gave my 1/32 HpH Delfin as a birthday gift to another member of this forum. I am ready to believe in Karma now! Radu
    4 points
  31. Cheetah11

    USAAFE F-15C

    A small update. I added a piece of spruce to the tail plane attachment point and drilled a hole into the spruce for a better fit. Upon test fitting the kit parts there was a small amount of play, so this sorted the problem. I added the top deck to the front fuselage. The kit designer would most likely not approve but this sequence works better for me. An uncommon step was present after glueing the parts but at this stage easy to eliminate. Top and bottom fuselage joined and gap filled with superglue. In retrospect it would have been easier to fill the gap with plastic card. Happy Modeling Nick
    4 points
  32. Barry

    LSP Cockpits

    Here are pics of the only cockpit I have painted. It is my loooooong stalled A-7D build. Maybe one day I'll get back to it after I finish then 1/16 Abram Tom got me started on 4 years ago! Barry
    3 points
  33. R Palimaka

    LSP Cockpits

    Cool idea. awesome work everyone! I also love cockpits and trying to dress them up. It's really the heart of the whole aircraft. This is the only one for which I have photos. It's the Airfix 1/24 Mustang cockpit stepped up a bit.
    3 points
  34. Worked on some more interior, added addition jumps seats to the radio compartment along with thermoses and a paper cup holder to the bomb bay door which the early fortresses had. Some more work on the flight deck including the throttle quadrant and painting the seats. Also painted the tires, so bulbous and nondescript, they remind me of the Bugs Bunny cartoon with the Gremlin...
    3 points
  35. Finishing off the underside of the fuselage, the missile launchers have had some miniature magnets attached to allow the Aim-7s to be easily removed if required. Most of the early F-15s did not carry much in the way of weapons, usually an Aim-9J training round, so these will probably be left bare but it would be quite nice to load her up just to see what it would be like! I also drilled out and thinned the inlets at the bottom of the photo to make them a little more to scale and adding some tubing on the other side to give a sense of depth to the intake. Similar magnets are placed on the front launchers, I've yet to add the distinctive C-shaped brace . The grills on the avionics access bay have been drilled out to add more depth and a PE grill placed behind for effect. More latches have been added and of course an abundance of rivets! I also purchased the grills and vents set for the F-15 from GTResin. They are designed for the Tamiya kit but they fit the Revell one just fine. This is the grill underneath the rear of the nose section and helps add a nice bit of depth to the piece. Just need to tidy up a few mistakes ...ahem....before moving on to the much more visible top surface of the fuselage. No pressure!
    3 points
  36. Hi Anthony, I've seen that decal artwork on the P-40 drawing microfilms at the National Air and Space Museum. Running short of cash, I didn't copy the image (or the similar images for "Tomahawk" and "Warhawk") - but I remember them as including no color information. This was more than a decade ago, but at the time I suspected that the original drawings were in color, copied onto B&W microfilm. There's a possibility that there are original drawings at the (US) National Archives, which are closed for some time to come. This would likely be a long-duration search with a very low possibility of success. Wish I could offer more. I still hope to write a P-40D, E, M book one day - if I get back to that project I'll return to the microfilms and Archives, and I'll certainly keep you in mind. Cheers, Dana
    3 points
  37. Had a break from scribing and opening up holes with a bit of painting today (still work in progress of course!):
    3 points
  38. Lockheed capitalized heavily on X-3 research project and NACA wind tunnel data from Stilleto were absolutely essential for F-104 wing development.
    3 points
  39. Sure you don't have a cat? They are Masters in blaming the dog.
    3 points
  40. Don't know if it's still possible to change it, but that ADI (horizon) is upside down, as if the aircraft is on its back, flying inverted, which with an open canopy spider shouldn't be possible Blue is sky, brown is ground. I hope you don't mind me pointing it out. On the plus side, I really love the open spider. You could also place the throttle more vertically as when it's in cutoff it's position is more vertical (engine out) but that's a very minor detail Great pit, I really love the added details
    3 points
  41. Here are the two photos of Hartmann's G-14 (or G-6) that I am aware of... The Ebay seller didn't have an actual LIST of aftermarket sets just photos and when I saw the MDC cockpit... I was interested! The other things that I'm able to use are just bonus! Let me know if you need that canopy! Provided I don't mess mine up in the process of the build! That's probably why the price on this Ebay offering was so reasonable. Good timing on my part! Thanks Mark! Not really interested in the S-199. At least for the moment. And don't be afraid to build your own version of this aircraft, Mark. I'm sure they would turn out different due to our different styles. It's actually difficult to choose subjects that aren't being built already. One of the reasons I chose this build is because the others (Fw190D-13 Yellow 10 and Me262B Nightfighter) are current builds by other LSP members. Ah so maybe that's where the original builder was going with this kit? Not deformed... that's just the reflection of the ring lights on the ceiling of my light box. It actually came with a cloth diffuser to prevent such hard reflections but I had neglected to put it on for these pics. Thanks guys! My first steps in this build are coming up!
    3 points
  42. that is the finest bit of engineering I have seen in many a long while... it is impossible to comprehend that every cylinder fin is handmade.. it just looks perfect.. I thought you were mad as a box of frogs trying that, but your quite incredible effort is quite breathtaking and hugely inspirational perfection can be achieved - it just takes inordinate skill, time and patience.. Peter
    3 points
  43. afternoon ladies I trust you are all safe and well Hi Ray - it's chalk & cheese actually - the D9 has big trenches & no rivets but the HB kit has a quite quite subtle surface finish with delicate panels & recessed rivets (or raised fasteners) Bit of an issue with the cockpit as normally I make airscale sets to fit the kit parts once they are sanded blank, but first impressions of the HB kit are that the overall shapes are bad so I think it would be quite a bit of rework to make it accurate - will see as I get stuck into it... so it's been a bitty few weeks, with a LOT of learning about this airframe I should have done before I stormed in cutting things up... hey ho, we live and learn... lets start where we left off, which was the chin airscoop - this is the resin part as it cae out of the mould -very rough & ready but all it needs to impart are basic shapes.. ..I dremmeled out the innards and used fuse wire to get the profile to make a radiator part.. ..as I will never get in here once fitted, I skinned the inside and built a radiator front - mainly speculative as I have no pics of this area at all, just a drawing showing how far back it is set.. ..also skinned the bottom of the fuselage where the scoop mounts - the flanges will be rolled into it to fair in the shape once fitted.. ..all fitted... however, this is where things started to really unravel... ..in looking more, and learning more, including chatting with Arthur Bentley it seems the V18 had a very different nose to the D9 or D13... for one the engine thrustline is 110mm above the datum vs 70mm for a D model, the cowl diameter is 1200mm vs the 1100mm I had for the D9 so the upshot is the nose is all wrong.... lol...not.. ..the first inkling of a problem was when I saw the dotted outline on Arthurs plans for the 1200mm cowl.. ..after chatting he also sent me this original FW Project drawing that was submitted to the RLM which while it shows an early version of the supercharger fitting, it does show the much higher upper nose line (almost parallel to the datum unlike the sloping D9 / D13)... the other section drawing out there was done post war - this is the real deal.. ..I also used photo's to determine things like cowl flap position as these are not on the drawings - an average was taken from three side shots as there are no perfect side on views.. ..the drawing was then imported into Rhino and the 3D modelling started.. ..the cowl flaps are just dummies to help my orientation, but the other parts will be 3D printed to get this bit right for skinning later on.. .. I had a notion that I might be able to graft the new nose onto the Hobbyboss 1/18 kit as that is an A8 and the V18 was derived from an A1 (rear fuselage - thanks Roger) so it made sense to maybe start with an earlier model standard airframe than the chopped up D9 I currently have I put up an unboxing video anyone can access with a walk through the bits and impressions on the kit if you are interested so there we are - fools rush in, I have learned a lot, I have had to adapt and I have wasted some time - but it is interesting and challenging unwrapping an enigma as compared to the P51 where I literally pulled up any drawing of any part of the airframe ...next time I should have made a start on doing things as they should have been done TTFN Peter
    3 points
  44. X2! looking forward to this one for sure.
    3 points
  45. I use MRP's range of clear coats the do a 2k clear thingy but I am not sure if they discontinued that, but i have used the following with very pleasing results gloss semi gloss semi matt matt pros: sprays like a dream straight from the bottle dries very quick - like mask over it in 30mins or less if you needed to (I tend to give it a few hours) durable good range of gloss to matt from the 4 bottles you can put most things over them without ruining the paint work eg enamel weathering products, water based, oil based airbrush cleans easily with any cheap lacquer thinner cons: bit smelly, good ventilation an advantage I hope this helps give you some options
    3 points
  46. MarcinWSS

    Pfalz DIIIa 1:32

    Enjoy!
    3 points
  47. I "think" I've finished the colander: Could be more, and there are a couple there that the first owner cut out on the port side (the two rectangular ones above the wing) which I think shouldn't have been, but that'll do for the moment.
    3 points
  48. Hey all, got just about all of the clutter positioned on the back bulkhead- now I can start moving towards the front of the cabin- I realize that that these photos tend to all look the same..the progress is slow but steady. Much of my time at the bench is spent thinking..and moving bits of gear around until the arrangement looks believable. cheers Pete
    3 points
  49. Thanks Jay! There's much more mess to come yet, as you'll see shortly.... Thanks very much Peter. I'm not saying I like doing them but I feel clear parts and I have developed an understanding...... Not quite at the strut stage yet Terry, but I am looking at them A few more "mundane" things to tick off first..... I took the opportunity to make the floor (something I didn't do last time around) so I used my nose drawing in Rhino to print off some sections that would look the part, then lined them with styrene... All lines up! So far so good As much as there was plenty of work to do prior to reattaching the nose sections, there was a point at which practically needed to go back on. However, I did need to get a splash of colour onto a few areas... I also had a crack at making some "head lining" for the cockpit roof out of soft lead foil. I then embossed press stud shapes into and very gently painted it at the same time. It's extremely delicate, so sticking it in permanently is going to be fun! You'll recall that there's some pretty large gaps that will need filling and blending where the new nose joins the existing fuselage. I went about filling most of the gaps as best I could with little styrene "skin pins" Then I filled the gaps using epoxy. These in turn were sanded flush once dry so I could see what I was dealing with.... A pretty big step. Luckily, I had considerable wall thickness in my print to take away from, as well as building up some material inside incase I got a bit over zealous with my grinding..... A lot of grinding later (and building up on the smaller side with putty) and this is where it's at right now. It needs sanding and more blending, but I think we're getting there! So there you have it. About 3 weeks worth of work and I'm now almost back to where I started, with both nose sides reattached to the existing fuselage. The shape of the "face" definitely made it worth it, and no fingers or toes were lost in the process And lastly...... Being new to New Zealand I'm slowly discovering things about the place, but when I saw this it just totally made my day!!!!!! How awesome is that? I don't even like beer but I HAD to have this. If that's not a sign I don't know what is!!!! Cheers, Craig
    3 points
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