Leaderboard

Wow, almost 6 months to the day since my last post! What's been happening? Unfortunately not much on the fort, but we'll get to that in a minute. In the last 6 months I have: Left the Australian Army after 20 years of service, Done a stack of work to the house to get it ready to sell, Uprooted our life and everything we own and moved to New Zealand, Set up a new life, Sold the house, Joined the Air Force to do the same job! Squeezed everything we own 3 bedroom and 1 large workshop's worth of stuff into a very small 2 bedroom single garage house. It doesn't really seem like much to write it, but it's been hectic, which is why I've only just been getting some much needed modelling time in in the last few days. I was terrified of all my carefully packed up modelling gear getting destroyed in the move (we all know how careful moving companies aren't) but luckily the huge amount of prep work I'd done paid off. The really annoying part is that as a lot of my supplies were considered dangerous cargo, I had to ditch them and buy again once in the country. I've been living vicariously through the rest of you making progress on your various projects and always inspired, especially by Peter's stunning Mustang, I decided to explore the possibility of modifying my work on the E/F nose correction to see if I could use it as the basis for a better C/D nose. I know Terry had warned me not to do this but after looking at the comparison photos with all 3 lined up beside each other, I just wasn't happy with the shape of the C and it's rather oversized nose. After all, my main goal in this whole project was to achieve "the look!" Additionally, I found a heap of errors in my E/F drawings that would cause issues in the printing, so I'll be going back to fix them in time. Anyway, on with the pics! As I'd lost the lower part of the original nose at some point (and it was a G anyway) I had to add the lower part, modify the length of the E/F and add the extra cockpit window. Adding the cutout for the observer's dome (which I'll be able to use from my previous work so that's a bonus!) Onto the print. These are rough for checking my work. I'll do them in resin on the photo once I'm happy. Here you can see the existing E/F and then the new C/D below. Laid over the top of my previous work. Looks like everything will line up as far as grafting onto the HK fuselage. The new nose is more correctly shorter than my previous effort too! This was what really kicked off the redesign. Have a look at the size difference between my part and the kit (surprisingly HK got this pretty close to correct). I know it would've bothered me later, so there was really nothing for it but to redo it. Please excuse the F nose cone, just taped on here to show that everything lines up so much better than my previous work! The next step will be to start trying to separate the outer shell from the cockpit "tub." I am hoping that I can reuse that without too much effort as that and the instrument panel do look good and have been a huge amount of work that I really don't want to do again, so here's hoping I can pull it off. Wish me luck! Cheers, Craig

This is my all-time favorite: Although, I'm also quite fond of Revell's original P-51B artwork in Gentile's markings, and of course their Snake Stuka. D

OK, proof of life here! Managed to travel home from work, only 1 flight and not to the main terminal at home, only a small airline for local provincial work anyway. Also managed a run into a grocery store that was actually only missing eggs... funny. Anyway, here is the kit, New in box, with a few little bits of Eduard, Archer rivets, and AMS seat for the modified K's that happened after a few accidents during take-off. The paper sheet is my tentative masks for the Cola Red markings, with a Red tail (go figure)... It is for the Tail number 272, RI-F, most images I have are blurry, so this will be as best I can make it, and also, as we have seen, I'm no expert at modelbuilding, but I'll make a good attempt at this. KH isn't easy, but neither was my Revell Lynx so... The kit on my recently cleaned desk! Mask template Sprues We can see that this is a Sbare Jet Aftermarket! Cheers guys!

hi Chrish, thanks for sticking around this far into the build. I don't know about Canada, but over here they call it social isolation. I call it more time to do model aircraft building. My project is coming along a bit faster than in the last months. I finished the inlets with use of some small plastic parts to imitate the retraction mechanism: then mounted it on my Rhino: Sprayed the burner cans with Vallejo metallic steel and with Tamyia smoke on each edge of each blade: then mounted them, after which I could also glue the ailerons. the carrier deck has been primed with Tamyia primer, the anti-slip coating came out quite well, as did the tie-downs that I had printed by Shapeways:

P-47D-40RA, Big Stud Coll. Robert Baseler, 325th FG kit: Hasegawa engine: Quickboost cockpit: Aires wheel Bay: Aires wheel: Barracuda studio stencils: HGW Decals: Cartograf Masks: home made paint: Alclad II, Gunze C Photo: my good frend Miloslav(thank you)

hello all, thanks for the kind replies, I also look forward to paint this monster. Done some work on the bow doors, this is how it looks until now overall view aft 20mm gun on the starboard side still has to be installed, but first I have to make the aft anchor winch I finally deceided what the diorama will look like, one drawback, my diorama base is too small enjoy, Rammstein

Some progress this past weekend. Finally got the resin nose and canopies fully integrated, primed, and re-scribed/riveted. Now waiting on the PE flaps so I can get started on the wing. I'm also going to try some of Archer's raised screw head details on the recessed cowl holes. I really wish I had a place set up to take better pics.

Dear Customers, As the coronavirus situation continues to evolve, we would like to inform you that the delivery time of your orders will take more than usual. It is due to temporary restrictions on international air transport, introduced by the Polish government last week. All kits are ready and packed, and will be shipped as soon as possible. We are monitoring the situation daily, and, as we do with any unusual event, we will keep you informed on the dates of shipments. I would like to personally thank you for your continued support and patience as we navigate this dynamic situation, which is affecting all our lives in ways we never thought possible. Please take care of yourselves, your loved ones, and others who may need help. Kindest regards, Simon and the Silver Wings Team

what im building at the moment is the maserati 250F from MFH its a multi media kit so far the first 4 steps are done and the engine is ready next step will be the engine frame keep on building my friends Mark

My two favorites

It was:

LOve it! This one is my fave: And this one:

Hi all, I'm calling the fuselage finished. I've scuffed the underside roundel to represent water wear. The fuselage was given a weathering coat of Dark Dirt clay wash 'Flory Models' to represent general grime, especially as crew and mechanics had to walk on the cockpit decking. It was then sealed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311) lacquer. A second light wash of White was applied to give an indication of salt spray and to highlight the fuselage panel nail lines, then sealed again. Now onto the wings, Mike

Consider this post my placeholder for now. I was going to join in with a Tamiya F-15C but changed my mind. I’ll now be joining with this. To go along with it I have the full Zactomodels upgrade set, ColdWar Studios MiG-29 Cockpit set, Begemot Decals and full stencil set(I’ll be doing the Aggressor with Wasp/Hornet on the tail) Master Pitot, a Quickboost ejection Seat (the Cold War Studios one doesn’t have belts but the Quickboost one does) and in case the intakes probe to be a pain I have the Quickboost inlet and exhaust covers. Won’t be doing any work on it until next week. Then the Glacial progress will commence.

1/32 Hasegawa CMK wheel bay, cockpit Painting mask & decals by Z.Slavík Wheels & instrument panel Eduard All colours Mr.Paint/MRP

I think the original was the Don Gentile version.

I am really looking forward to the final result of your work. Great progress so far! Still I thought it is worth to point out that there is, when it comes to the base camouflage of the D-13, a second opinion deviating from Jerry's work. Obviously I am talking about JaPo's analyse published in Volume 2 of Focke Wulf Fw 190D camouflage and markings. Thanks for publishing the instructions for the Eagle Cals (correct me if I am wrong) here, I haven't seen them before. The main difference between Jerry on one side and JaPo on the other is that JaPo starts with a typical camouflaged Dora (two color schema). I am not sure if there will be a second color on the wings, but even then the fuselage itself should have two colours to start with. As a result of this I assume that all stencils etc were overpainted or left out untouched when the 'final' pattern was applied. Keep in mind that the current form of the D-13 as it is displayed right now is not was Jerry imagined it to be. The pattern are way to thick applied and should be way softer and less pronounced. All scans were sourced from: JaPo Focke Wulf Fw 190D camouflage and markings Vol. 2 @Admins: Please let me know or take down the post if there is an issue publishing the scans.

Nice site here for the great old boxart: https://boxartden.com/gallery/index.php/ And one that made me want to spend my "hard earned" allowance every time I went in the Ben Franklin store (yes youngsters, models used to be sold in every dime store, department store or toy store in existence):

Jack Lynnwood put out some truly fine cover art for Revell. All dynamic. Their P-40, Corsair, P-38, B-24. Love his work. For me, Shigeo Koike, his later work rather than his earlier work. His earlier work had a high color contrast, leaning mostly toward the complementary, with a high contrast between figure and ground. This does not make it bad. His early work is pretty darn good. For me, these two contrasts makes his earlier work difficult to look at. His later work shows a different relationship between figure and ground, and the use of color and light. Early. Another. Later. Another. Anyway, I love his art. I have watched his growth over the years through his box art, which has influenced a generation of aviation artists. I also like John Steel. He brought a sometimes dynamic 'You are there' perspective' to box art which influenced his generation, including Jack Lynnwood. But sadly his faculties and abilities began to fade during his career. But there ain't nobody like Airfix . . . They go right for the jugular. Just my opinion. Great subject. At least for me. Sincerely, Mark

I like that one too - that was the first LSP I ever built. I rather liked the 109G box art too: I don't think the artist intended it, but I always thought it looked like it was raining.

OOB apart from the Master barrel guns. Superb kit. great fit. Paints are MRP. This one didn't carry a radio.

1/32 A7- Corsair finished build complete, I used the verlinden navy carrier tractor, Reedoak’s figures and Eduard MK 84 bombs, along with resin electronics bays and wheel wheels, it’s a pain to build, but over come it and it’s a nice model, painted with MRP paints, this isn’t it’s true base she will join the F-14 Tomcat and F-4 on the carrier deck I built for a collector in London enjoy.

I’ll be getting a Revell MiG-21 PF soon, and I’ll be building it for this GB. Once I receive the kit, I’ll start the WIP.

Progress made on this, too. Three of the base colors were painted this weekend. Needs a little touch up on the RLM 76, then on to the first layer of green camo. When would you guys put suggest that I put on the markings and stencils? The painting guide on the back cover of Crandall's great book is a little misleading. It seems to suggest that the national markings and stencils all go on right after the 76 and 75 colors (stage 1), and get painted over with the camo (stages 2 and 3), BUT then seems to show them clear and sharp AFTER the camo is done. I'm leaning toward putting them all on right after stage 3.

I'm not at all sure why I'm doing this. I've already got a perfectly good and exciting challenge to hand with Alan Wilson's Icelandic big 1/32nd Bucc resin masterpiece, never mind the shelf of procrastination if not quite doom and the aftermath of a recent house move to be getting on with. But whatever the reason, Revell's 1/32 Harrier hit the doorstep today (it's chunky enough to withstand the impact) and I couldn't resist a look. Mainly because of nostalgia - I first took a crack at it in 1975 - but also because of reports that it most closely resembled a P1127(RAF) and therefore is potential Kestrel source material. Does it and is it? Well, yes and no. The first disappointment is with the forward nozzle fairings which resemble nothing Harrier or predecessor like at all. I wondered if Revell had attempted some mould revision, but no. Vintage builds show the same flawed concept and execution. The red line indicates the kit contour line, with the correctly shaped fairing overlaid in black. Those corrected intake fairings will also be a lot more rectangular in cross section. Built kit photos also demonstrate that perennial Revell problem of the squashed canopy. But in this case, a replacement mould can probably be made by jacking up just the windscreen arch by a couple of mm., gluing on the hood then filling it and crash moulding or vac forming a better replacement. I'll work out the dimensions and details later because its a basic requirement that every model has the right 'face'. If you don't know what I mean by face, the squashed canopy probably doesn't bother you. The intake fan is also terrible for the scale and needs some kind of enhancement. The tailplanes are of the extended tip type with the leading edge crank - correct for all but the very earliest Kestrels but easily cut to size if required, and the fin is the short version which just needs the root intake removed, the leading edge re-instated and a pitot probe added. I've read that the brass Hawk T1 probe from Master is Harrier-suitable, but from photos it looks like their L-39 Albatross type is closer to the Kestrel fin mounted one. The wing will need both leading edge saw tooths (teeth?) and fences removed (although at least XV689 definitely had the outer saw tooth introduced at some stage) and also the tip beyond the outrigger fairings. Which also need to be reshaped. The vortex generators can be removed completely, the innermost one and outer six left in place or the full set left as is, depending on the evolution of your subject. The undercarriage is a bit simplified as too are the cannon pods, but luckily the Kestrel doesn't need the latter, only the under fuselage strakes which are supplied and seem to fit reasonably well. On balance then it's better that there is one than if there wasn't. But in 2020, an updated one would surely have been worth the effort for what is still the most efficient and innovative VTOL aircraft seen so far.

Some more decal options.

https://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/dxm01-3509.htm Just the project if you like JASDF Rhinos and decaling....REALLY like decaling. Don

getting closer availabel in May 2020 as posted on britmodellr https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235066038-132-messerschmitt-bf108-taifun-by-eduard-spruesmarkings-release-may-2020/ Eduard leaflet https://www.eduard.com/out/media/distributors/leaflet/leaflet2020-05en.pdf

Yellow stripes masked: Green was then sprayed and the masks removed.: Again, the edges are a little rough and some cleaning-up will be necessary.

All- After finishing the 1/32 ICM I-16, I elected for a "fun" build to keep the creative juices flowing. The HK Lancaster has stalled as I got burned out a little bit on scratch building, and with our regional model contest being cancelled due to COVID (It was supposed to be on the 28th), there are no more deadlines to get some kits across the finish line. So, in steps this little guy! This is Bandai's 1/72 Tie Interceptor. I'm a self-proclaimed Star Wars junky, and when I was younger I got into all the cool technology that was part of the Star Wars universe. My palms got sweaty when Bandai started releasing their line of Star Wars kits, and if you haven't picked one up, do so immediately. They are absolutely fantastic kits. Very detailed, build quickly, and the fit is outstanding. In just two days, I have the complete airframe (spaceframe?) built, and the wings (solar arrays?) are painted up. Paint is Tamiya matte black for a primer/solar panels, and Vallejo medium grey for everything else, with a few small details picked out with black and silver brush paints. 90022983_200104431270009_977149169154129920_n by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr Now, just about every single one of these guys were painted the exact same. If you dive into the fan art side of Star Wars (there's a plethora on the interwebs), you'll find mention, and see examples, of "Aces" within the Empire, with a little splash of color on their craft. You don't see too much of this in the movies, but I wanted to capture some of it with this build. So out came the masking tape, and some bright yellow: 90029122_814068275740169_755471063600594944_n by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr 89993508_633767597459454_8811457739428462592_n by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr 90080315_1439146432925159_6971207460187013120_n by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr I'll end up doing a little bit more to the cockpit pod once I get the basic painting done, while will hopefully happen in the next few days! Then it's a gloss coat, some decals, a basic wash to make the details pop, a little weathering, and it'll be done. No reason this little fella won't be complete by the end of the weekend. These kits sure are fun to put together. I built there 1/48 AT-ST a while back, but haven't gotten around to painting the exterior of that one yet. Trying to decided, too, what sort of base I will put it on, and what sort of additional cammo I will apply to it. I'm thinking a winter scheme, with a white-wash to the walker. But the I thought about adding some glass to the open windows, and maybe a heater unit attached to the back, and then some gear hanging from the sides... and, well, its easy to get carried away. Comments and critiques, like always, are most welcome. - Dennis S. Thornton, CO USA

Another post got me thinking... what is the coolest 1/32 boxart? I'll start with the original Hasegawa Me-262 flying through the B-24 bomber stream....

Howdy folks, Brian has just review some new REXx exhaust sets: REXx New Galvanically Grown Metal Exhaust Sets Thanks, Brian! And thanks to Bob at H & B Hobbies for the review samples. Kev

I certainly remember building that Ju 87 from the box with that artwork, and it was the biggest model I'd ever built to date at the time. I also did the Corsair, which wasn't that much smaller. Nobody's mentioned Revell's Fw 190D yet - not packed with shoot-'em-up action, yet imo it really captures the speed and urgency of a scramble to meet yet more B-17s, B-24s and P-51s. And yes, I've built this one too in my youth.

To save Thierry rummaging around, it was a company called LMG (Laser Model Graver) Compressor engine Rolls-Royce Pegasus The example is 1/48, but there was a 1/32 version (for a short time). I'm looking forward to a new fan replacement. Using the Trumpeter would also remedy the fact the Revell blades are backward for the Pegasus.

Ya that one kicks ass!!

I was kind of pointing to 1/32 specifically, but I see a lot of good art. I have the Revell Skyraider with the John Steele boxart. It is stunning.

Nostalgia aside I agree that the best box arts are very probably Shigeo Koike ones.

Can't forget the Hasegawa kits buy Shigeo Koike. Great stuff.

Really can't beat any of the classic late 60's/early 70's Revell kits. The P-40 especially comes to mind, as does the Corsair. And who can forget the big bomber kits in 1/48, the B-29, 17, and 24's...

Ok. Just a quick word to say... I FREAKING LOVE my DREMEL TOOL!!! Saved about 45 minutes of sawing through solid resin! Best tool ever. Highly recommend with the flex shaft attachment and hanger. And now back to the ordinary programming.

One of the coolest schemes you can use the Tamiya kit for oob.. The ADTW is a unit involved with testing so it not surprising to see an old non Kai with them. Aerodynamic testing doesnt need the latest ecm and radar gear..

And the really weird part is the fact this recent scheme demonstrates an unknown number of flying airframes were not upgraded to the Kai standard...

Before finishing the F-16 I did a bit more on the F-15. I shortened one of the tailpipes and used tape to cover the gaps. I then made a casting and made copies. I also glued the wings to the top fuselage as I believe this is easier to work on the joints. I also still need to fill some of the panel lines.I need to get some references for this. Pylons also done. Although this is a large kit it builds up quickly and easily.

Hi all, The fuselage is progressing with the stripes and Latin legend 'Frangar Non Flectar'. Just the three metal hatch covers to add and final weathering and finish, including the fuselage nail lines. Then onto the wings, Mike

hello all have made one of the 20mm platforms, the one in front of the bridge, 2 more to go enjoy Rammstein

Not quite as agricultural as you might think, Anthony, but still perhaps a generation behind the best V-12'a available at the time. There were about 129,000 engines built, and they powered quite a few of the well known Russian planes, as well as a few P.40's and P.39's. It was a big engine compared to the Allison and Merlin at 35 litres and had three valves per cylinder; 2 inlet and 1 exhaust, together with single stage, two speed supercharging. The induction system was on the outside of the heads, resulting in siamesed ports and reverse flow heads, as Tim's picture shows. This also means that it's a little wider relative to it's capacity than say a Merlin which means that it's less aerodynamic. Because of the layout of the induction and porting, it was less powerful than an equivalent sized engine of the time with a maximum of 1,360hp in later versions, whereas early RR Griffons at 37 litres were putting out 1,730 to 1,850hp with similar supercharging arrangements. But any discussion of the Russian engines has to take into account the poor quality petrol available to them at the time, which limits what a designer can do. As such, it was a pretty good engine.

Hi Chrish, neither can I! I am indeed postponing this build quite a lot my my plan for a piece of carrier deck. But nevertheless making good progress: Put the lines on the deck and pre drilled the tie-down holes. tie downs have been printed by Shapeways in the mean time. The weld seams between deck plates were made with Vallejo putty: Then I used a yoghurt-like primer to glue tiles onto tiles. I had that stuff as left over some years ago, already then I saw how there is very fine sand particles in there and how its structure would make a good anti-slip coating. By combing it with a very fine comb I made the orientation as you see on carriers: structure is accross over the seems, and length wise on the rest of the plates. after a successful test I put the stuff on the piece of deck, half an hour later this was the result: anti-slip coating on the deck!

and sprues review over on DSV https://www.detailscaleview.com/2020/01/eduard-32-bf108-taifun-sprues-review.html

I might go there too..............there are some seriously pretty Civi schemes out there. The choices are seemingly endless............ Or even this one...............technically still Civi, and no crooked crosses to deal with if one doesnt want to........

I believe that was a Bucker Bu181. My Eduard Bf 108 - to whet a few appetites.