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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    John Everett

    Hughes 500, Nichimo, 1/20

    GeeWhiz. Has it been two months already? Paint is on and much of the heavy work is complete. I'll finish up the details and get it photographed in the next week or so. Window to hull fit here...not so much. I think the fuselage side may have warped a little during its four decades of storage. But this side fit very well. I started work on the base this morning. I'm not sure how much effort I want to make there. But I'm thinking yachtboard helipad.
  2. 3 points


    Hi guys I used aires resin cockpit and ejector seats, and engines for this build, with majority of my new favourite paint MRP, the figures are Reed oak of corse. Just a bit about the build represents IN FEBRUARY 2015 NUMBER 12 SQUADRON CELEBRATED ITS CENTENARY AND THE MARKINGS APPLIED TO GR.4ZA405 INCLUDING A PANEL LISTING THE UNITS BATTLE HONOURS. ALSO SEEN HERE IS THE SQUADRON BADGE WHICH FEATURES OF FOXES HEAD FAMOUSLY ADOPTED WHEN THE UNIT BECAME THE ONLY RAF OPERATOR OF THE FAIRY FOX IN 1926.
  3. 3 points
    John Everett

    Hughes 500, Nichimo, 1/20

    Just realized I've not updated in a long time. There's progress: There's been even more added to the engine bay. But I don't have pictures of it yet. Thanks for watching! John
  4. 2 points
    Rick K

    Special Hobby Tempest V

    This build has been on and off the SOD for well over a year. Back to the bench and I hope to finish this before the apocalypse .
  5. 2 points

    P-51D-25 "Blondie" Tamiya

    P-51D-25 "Blondie" Build Miroslav Knížek Painting Miloslav Hrabaň 1/32 Tamiya HGW wet tansfer set Colours HGW & Gunze
  6. 2 points

    Hanriot HD.2 scratchbuild

    This is my scratchbuilt Hanriot HD.2 I built for a group build on WW1aircraftmodels.com. The only commercially made parts are the engine (WNW), machine guns (Eduard), and instrument face decals (Airscale). Enjoy!
  7. 2 points
    John Everett

    Hughes 500, Nichimo, 1/20

    I meet a lot of modelers who say they have this kit. But none of them seem to be building it. I'll be adding some interior detail.
  8. 2 points
    Just realised I forgot to include the progress (sort of) for the upper wing fuel area. The new piece was inserted into the wing and glued section at a time to conform to the wing contour. Unfortunately in drilling out the forward opening, I overlooked it so a piece of card was shaped and inserted into the hole. It will be smoothed out in the putty and sanding works: The interior has had some more of the styrene ribs removed to accomodate the two fuel filler port boxes. These will be thinned in a box shape some more to get the fit level: The inspection ports have been drilled out to accept the PE covers and they will sit flush: Thanks for looking in.
  9. 2 points
    hello and thaks so much for your comments. I'm really glad that this may inspire and transmit a bit of will to try that theme ! paintwork is about a bit of discipline, which i hate, but which here is rewarding. I used Infini brand sanders from 600 to all the way up to get rid of the plastic grain and polish the NMF areas. Then some Mr Color GX-2 with Mr Levelling Thinner for a slow and stretched curing. If needed or if any touch ups has been done, rebuff. Then a nice layer of KColor Aliminum 15 and you end up with a shiny shine thing. But also very white an neutral which i need for my B&W thing. KColor are alcohol based so adding a few drop ofGunze H77 tyre black gave the shadowing and weathering shade. Srayed far, it's grayish, sprayed close it's a bit darker. I did some freehand shadings and some stencil-through srpraying to create all the artefacts. An interesting pic i've been provided with shows some light lines above rivets lines with displaced shadows: this has been simply done my using thin strips of masking tape and a fine spray on top of it. Then scratches and texture: i used some sanding pads from inifini brand: 2500 grit for general texturing, 1000 grit to scratch areas covered with the darkest shadows. You want to let the pad slide on the paint with no push and let it catch the weathering miw that is a bit flat. A final mist of pure KColor Aluminium 15 helped ajudsting contrasts. thanks again for that kick of motivation Fanch
  10. 2 points
    Afternoon guys! This post will finish up all the interior detail I needed to do before closing both top and bottom halves of the fuselage and then I can proceed to finish off the detail on the exterior of the fuselage. So what needed to be done was the ammunition belts from the emergency ammunition cans and the oxygen bottle for the gunner. I'll start with the ammunition belts.....By using just paper and wire I'd thought I would show you how I went about this task ..photo by photo... 1. The first task was to cut 4 pieces of paper to the length/width of the belts....I used paper as it will bend like a real ammo belt... 2. As you can see I then cut all 4 pieces..(you will see in the next few photos why I did this!)... 3. I then got some garden metal wire twine (I chose this as it looked the right scale for the rounds)... 4. This then had to be straightened using a flat piece of metal rolled across the top of a length of wire...... 5. After measuring the width of the pieces of paper I then had to cut... (loads!!).... of pieces of wire which would replicate the rounds,....laborious task!...although I don't actually mind doing it!! 6. These were the super glued onto 2 of the 4 strips of paper.... 7. Then the other strips of paper were glued over the top of the rounds This is the time that I bent the paper to the shape I needed.... 8. A couple strips of paper were cut and glued to both sides of the belts to make them look more authentic and I then painted them..... So now all I had to do was super glue one end of the belts to the ammo cans and hook up the other ends on a couple of posts....(the reason for this is that because I have exposed the top of the ball turret I couldn't glue them to the entry point of the turret!)...here are a few photos of the task complete...... The last task to do before closing the two halves was to scratch the oxygen tank for the gunner. I have so far made loads of oxygen tanks for this project so I just made them the same way as before....and that is a sanded down piece of balsa wood with plastic strips glued to them!......here it is.... I then glued the tank onto the post and made a couple of paper straps ....to replicate the securing straps! So here is the finished Ball turret connection structure...... So now its at long last time to place the top to the bottom!!..ha ha! I am now getting close to the end of the Radio room section of this B17G....the external detail will now have to be thought about before proceeding......so I'll see you all the next time around! Thanks again for looking in Fozzy
  11. 1 point

    USAF F-100D Captain Ronald G Swanson 1968

    I have a few projects on the go at the moment, but I needed to get started on a decent large scale jet as I have felt a little rushed come Model Expo in June for the last few years when I have been caught napping and haven't got my act together and almost not had an entry ready for the Large scale jets category. This will be a long term project so there wont be any rushing here and it will fit in nicely with the other stuff currently on my bench. I have wanted to do an F-100D for a long time and have felt that it would be a great addition to my collection, considering that I am well on my way to completing my collection of the Forward Air Control trifecta of the O-1, O-2 and the OV-10A as flown by RAAF pilots during Vietnam. It would be important to be able to display the aircraft that they called upon to deliver the ordnance and give some context to the mostly unarmed aircraft that were the FAC's. During my build of Mac Cottrells O-1, he supplied me with a combat report written by two F-100 pilots that he called upon to provide a strike assisting troops in contact. They recommended him for a Distinguished Flying Cross for which he was awarded. Here is the Combat report that Mac supplied me with. I decided to see if I could find either of the two pilots mentioned. With a bit of persistence, I was able to track down Ronald Swanson (Blade 02) via a photo of him that I found on facebook. He has agreed to be my subject pilot for this build and we have been having conversations over the last week via email and social media (we are on opposite sides of the earth after all). I am very happy to be able to make a model with such a unique connection to another in my collection and thank Ron for being the inspiration to do so. Ron flew 268 combat missions during the Vietnam war, between April 1968 and April 1969. He flew for the 615th Tactical Fighter Squadron, part of the 35th Tactical Fighter Wing based at Phan Rang Air Base. This picture is Ron immediately after his final mission in Vietnam. This picture is of Ron's Squadron, with Ron being the 5th from the left in the back row. Major Davidson, the flight leader mentioned in the combat report is second from the right in the front row. Ron will have access to much more information in October, so please stay tuned! The build. I am using the Trumpeter F-100D, with as much aftermarket as I could find for it. I started in the cockpit. The Aires resin pit is quite nice and looks to be reasonably accurate. I painted it all over black I then painted it MRP FS36231 grey. From there I masked the side consoles and painted them with an extremely dark grey custom mix of SMS Camo black and white. I followed the same paint process as above with the instrument panel. I then hand painted each instrument bezel with Vallejo black, and used the excellent Airscale Allied Jets decals for the instruments. I used a few 1/48 scale decals for the smaller instruments. Each instrument has a drop of clear glue to simulate the glass. The cockpit sides and rudder pedals painted using the above process. The kit pedals have been used with the Aires photo etch North American logo on the top of each pedal applied. For some of the harder to paint parts, I attach a piece of masking tape to a pop stick to enable me to stick parts to it. Part way through the cockpit. I have painted some of the button labels with white paint and started picking out some of the details with other various colours. I have applied a wash to build up a level of grime and have chipped the floor in front of the rudder pedals to simulate a well worn machine. There was almost a mini disaster here when I went and got a coffee inside and returned to the shed to a strong smell of Mr Levelling thinner. My son (almost 8) was looking a little suspect and quickly caved in under questioning and owned up to accidentally tipping over the bottle, filling up the tub with thinner! luckily, it dried OK with no harm. Visible here is a new undercarriage lever which I have fabricated from brass and plastic card. The silver chipping in front of the rudder pedals is visible here. I have painted the outline of the worn areas with a thin line of zinc chromate primer to simulate the various layers of paint down to the bare metal. Whilst stuff was drying in the cockpit I dry fitted the fuselage halves together and sawed off the really inaccurate intake from the kit. this will allow me to fit the Zactomodels correct intake, an essential upgrade to the kit. Once the intake duct was together, I fitted the Aires front wheel bay. This took a bit of work to get right but it is also another important upgrade.
  12. 1 point

    Last and (nearly) First!

    This duo-build project is something that I've been thinking about for a while. I've always wanted to build a Sea Fury so when Simon wanted to sell his Fisher one I snapped it up (I know Simon now regrets this sale since it was shortly before Paul Fisher's place burnt down in Paradise, sorry Simon!), and I rarely build jets but a Hunter has always appealed. As the last Hawker piston-engined aircraft, and the first Hawker jet-engined aircraft, I thought they'd make a "nice pair"! There is no need I think to add anything to the Sea Fury so this will be OOB, but the Hunter came with: a few additional goodies to which I've added the True Details F6 cockpit set. I know the kit is an F9, but I'll be finishing it as an F6 (minor changes I understand) of 56 squadron.....thanks to Mike C for the decals. Hoping to actually make a start in the next day or so.
  13. 1 point

    F-8E Crusader Trumpeter 1:32

    I started my adventure with modeling four years ago. And I wanted to show you one of the models from the beginnings of my modeling passion. At the beginning I apologize for the pictures - I know that they are very weak but I did them without studio lighting. The model is the F-8E Crusader Trumpeter 1:32, the model quite easy to build I had small problems were with the air intake. I think that you already know that I always make models straight from the box and try to present heavily exploited machines. Such painting makes for me the models are less "plastic" do not look like toys. Ovcourse it's my opinion.
  14. 1 point

    Dragon BF 110 D (Completed)

    So here is my entry for my first LSP Group Build the kit is the Dragon BF 110 E-2 trop, with Montex mask BF 110D Shark mouth and the rest will be OOB. I don't believe i have ever built a Axis subject up to date but ironically i will have 3 of them on my bench in the coming months , i have this one , a 1/35 sd.kfz and a trumpeter 1/24 BF109 that i want to get going. i stated building this kit in my living room watching the kids since there are many sub assemblies that can be done requiring no paint. thus far i have basic cockpit, engines, gear bays built and i must say im really happy with the fit so far. last night i manage to get my first round of base coat going and im ready to start detailing the cockpit and weathering the engines More soon
  15. 1 point

    MIG-25 FOXBAT 1:48th

    ICM,s MIG-25 FOXBAT. I added a resin pilot, the rest is out of the box. No real dramas regarding the build, a good fit with hardly any filler required. Humbrol enamels used for the overall colours, with AK paints used for the metallic tones. It's big enough in 48th! If one should be produced in 32nd................................... Thanks for looking. Angelo
  16. 1 point
    red baron


    my last buit , enjoy : voila voila
  17. 1 point

    Mech resin garage kit

    Ok 1 last small distraction before I start the airfix hellcat! I’m building this small resin kit as a painting and weathering exercise and maybe try out some techniques from the armour modelling folks. The scale is roughly 1/35. And should make up into an interesting little model when finished. Cheers. Matt
  18. 1 point

    Academy AH-1Z Viper

    Hello, I have been busy with school and I needed to stop with the HK Lancaster for a while. I had some free time this past week but I did not “feel” any mojo with the Lanc and for that reason I decided for a quick build. My top choice was the New Academy -1Z. I will only add the 20mm barrels and seatbelts. Modern US military helicopters, except the-64D, utilize the same kind of seatbelts as the ones during WW2 with some minor differences. For that reason I will use WW2 belts for the -1Z Day 1: The 20mm barrels on the Kit are not very good. They were replaced with the RB ones. Day 2: Not much progress on this day just the first black coat in the cockpit. Today: Cockpit completion and halves, tail and bits glued together.
  19. 1 point
    Modifications and additions · Scratchbuilt instrument panel (then copied in resin) · Modified kit wheels by combining kit hubs with Barracuda cast slotted tyres. · Scratchbuilt Undercarriage legs from brass and plastic (main and tail) · Added brake lines (Scratchbuilt from copper wire) · Modified profile of upper forward fuselage and chin to better match references. · Scratchbuilt rear view mirror · Added RB productions seatbelts · Modified seat with extra panelling · Modified the lower windscreen area to correctly depict the bottom edge behind a panel · Cut out vac formed bullet proof flat panel and replaced it with thick Clear sheet. · Added spark plug wiring from copper wire · Opened up small circular panel behind cockpit to depict missing cover of fuselage fuel tank, along with Scratchbuilt fuel filler cap. · Scratchbuilt waste gate vent on left side of fuselage under forward cockpit. · Scratchbuilt cowl flaps. · Scratchbuilt Pitot tube from brass. Finish and markings All markings masked and sprayed including “Hep Cat” nose art. Small stencil data from the Red Roo decal sheet. SMS Foliage green and white used.
  20. 1 point
    Mr scale32

    Dornier DO-335 Destroyer.

    Hi fellow forum members, im back with a new model to show. Im truly sorry that im not have been active. I have not stopped building tough, infact since my last update here, there has been a few more models finished.. This model is the famous Do-335 Peil and in my opinion the coolest prop-driven aircraft ever made. The model is Hong Kong models Do-335 Destroyer, with plenty of aftermarked stuff like brassin wheels and exhausts, Eduard Photo etch, Model master pitot tubes and barrels and HGW belts. I also added extra details to the engines like wires and other plumings. The Loop antenna was very overscaled in the box, so the antenna was scratched completely I hope you like the model. Cheers to you all!
  21. 1 point
    Who was that then? Walt Disney?.......................................Yabbadee, yabbadee, yabadeee......That's all folks! Naaaa, cat's already out of the bag on this one. Might have to just rely on the Lancaster thread for your WNW fix for the time being............................
  22. 1 point
    another hurdle I was dreading... nav. lights are done
  23. 1 point
    Thanks guys. I was sent this pic by my good mate Dave Coupe, who was a gunnie with the RAAF during the eighties. This is an excellent pic for a number of reasons. It shows the font number plate, with the small `RAAF' lettering on it. This pic will enable me to better position the front tow hitch as well as the middle seat. Still not sure how this attaches to the tug. It also shows the front of the rear lights, so I will modify the ones that I made as I had these solid. Other details like the small grab handle on the hood and the fuel filler cap will be things that I will incorporate into the build. Still trying to find pics of the trailer! Some more work. I made 3 copies of the seat from the original tug that I purchased and they happen to be the correct style needed as per dave's pic above, so it wasn't a wasted purchase after all. I have added a small safety bar from brass rod to the right hand side seat and will refine this later. I made a copy of the rear lights and fitted both of them. I will tweak these a bit now that I have a good picture of the front of them. The rear tow hitch has been tacked on for sizing and I will make a copy of that as well. The tow pin is brass rod with the pull ring soldered on to it. I added the small exhaust pipe from brass tube. I have started the cargo box on the back of the tug with lengths of square rod. Cant wait to paint this yellow! Starting to come together. Should look pretty cool when its complete.
  24. 1 point

    Junkers D1 Speed Build FINISHED!!

    Thanks guys!! on to DAY 2 I have painted much of the interior, After undercoating with Tamiya rattle can fine surface primer all parts got a solid coat of SMS black followed by Alclad aluminium. Hairspray was applied prior to Gunz RLM 02 then the 02 was chipped. Details were picked out with tamiya enamel. A light wash with Mig neutral wash finished up the parts. Cables added from lead wire More to follow, thanks for stopping in.
  25. 1 point

    1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat

    I would probably need more definative proof than 1 profile. I'm no F6F SME, but from the bit of research I've done and seen, including statements made by those more in the know like Jennings, the DSB started with the -5s. Believe me, I want to do a tri-color Hellcat in 24th too. I would be apt to want to find out the exact BU number of that ship to see where in the -5 production it appeared.
  26. 1 point

    1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat

    I dont think it would be an issue under the Fair Use act.
  27. 1 point

    Revell 1/16 Hawaiian Funny car build.

    I like it it does seem to dark to me but my eyes are getting older then me
  28. 1 point
    red Dog

    Spitfire MkIX 1/24 349 sqn

    The heritage set I am using has been stored for quite a long while and I may have missing parts. The resin is not void of air bubbles but the extended nose, the 4 bladed prop, the second radiator and the tail parts are really helpful for this conversion. Not that it will be an easy one because the fit of the resin nose is really bad, the small air intake should hide a bit of that disaster but still ... On top the problem is not so huge but will require quite a bit of adjusting to fit. Needless to say the engine won't fit. No big deal there as when you build both the 1/24 airfix and the 1/32 tamiya engine at the same time, you'd be ashamed to display the 1/24 engine anyway. In all fairness there is a huge technology gap between these two so they can't really be compared IMHO. Let's just say that I am not a fan of opened panels on Spitfire and I rather want to display the elegant lines of the aircraft
  29. 1 point
    Almost ready for the painting the lighter undersides of her after some more color border touch up:
  30. 1 point
    Excellent pic Sean. I should do the figure in that pose. I am sure Brick will be around soon to answer you! Here is another picture of a friend of mine celebrating his 1000 hours. This is Noel Furber, with whom I used to work with when I was his F/O on the Q400 before he retired. He was the inspiration for me getting into modelling with a subject pilot in mind and for that I am ever thankful. I did build his Mirage a few years back. A bit more work on the buggy. I hit a bit of a stumbling block with the Tug. The one I purchased wasn't the correct one and I was quite prepared to convert it into something that was more suitable. I got it to get an idea of sizing and parts layout etc to aid in the conversion. The big problem was that I couldn't actually work out which type of tug it was! I thought that the tug in Sean and Bricks pic was a Clarktor, as there were a few decent photos of the RAAF using them at the correct time and place for them to be that model of tug. The issue was the very flat rear end of the tug in the pics, the tail lights and what looked like a number plate, which was all I had to work with. I searched for many hours looking for even the smallest hint or detail to assist, all to no avail. I was then told it could have been a Domino Industries Group TT53 tug, an Australian made machine which the RAAF used in Butterworth at around the same time. There were a few nice pics of machines currently for sale online that would have greatly helped me to scratch build the necessary detail but I still wasn't happy. There was something not right, and I certainly would not have felt right doing an `almost right' job on the tug as it will add so much to the completed scene. My first glimpse of the correct tug was this photo, with it just peeking out from behind a Mirage shown to me after a query on a RAAF Facebook page. The box shape front wheel arch and the 4 x slots in the front was enough to convince me it wasn't a Clarktor, or a Domino. Another detail I was looking at was the bonnets angled sides, sloping to the rear. Not much to go off but it was a start. An extensive search online turned up another photo of the machine with a lot more detail visible, including the tail lights, rear wheel arches and cargo box on the back, exactly as per Sean's pics. The box type front wheel arch and bonnet was something that I was able to match up to the first photo as above. I was still unable to work out what type of tug it was. Extremely frustrating, as I was supposed to be studying for my 6 monthly sim sessions in the next couple of days!! I needed more. After going through every photo that I could find of RAAF Mirages was able to find the best picture yet, a real eureka moment. Lots of excellent and useful detail. I then went and searched google for as many different tugs (no, not those types of tugs) that I could find, and finally nailed it down to the tug being a Universal tractor GC40 or very similiar. Externally it was very similar to their `Shop Mule' brand of tractor. From there, I was able to find plenty of pictures of current machines for sale or restored which would enable me to get it right. Aerobonus actually do a GC-40 tractor, so I was disappointed to know that I could have purchased this one originally and saved $50 or so Aussie dollars but I didn't know then what I knew now. An order was placed to my online dealer just before I jumped in the simulator and the next day (today) I received it. The first thing that required modification was the bonnet. I am not sure if this is a different model or whether Aerobonus (Aires) missed the angled bonnet. This is the tug straight from the box. I marked out where I wanted to shape the bonnet. Using a Number 11 blade, I scraped away the angle. I added some plastic card around the edges to simulate the flip forward hood. I sprayed the hood with SMS primer filler and sanded it smooth. You will also notice that I have replaced the steering wheel column with brass rod. Next up was the number plate. I went out and measured my own number plate on my car and scaled it down to 1/32. I then cut this out of plastic card and attached it to the tug. I also scratch built one of the tail light assemblies and will duplicate it in resin for the other side. I made up the front tow hitch out of plastic card and brass rod. I will also make copies of these parts to enable those that want to do something similiar to build one for themselves. Here's where I am at with it. The new tug came with only one seat, so I have used the two others from the older tug that I purchased. These two are actually closer in style to the real one, so I will copy those as needed.
  31. 1 point
    I fit the upper vents tonight and glued in the gear legs, everything seems to line up not too badly (oddly enough) beside a model wearing the colour scheme this one will (eventually) be wearing, if I ever get it done. I have to extend the tail cone, make it round in section (it was ovalish) and add a clear dome
  32. 1 point

    Revell 1/16 Hawaiian Funny car build.

    Excellent. I've only tried the Tamiya spray lacquer once so far, with far less than satisfactory results. Yours looks great though.
  33. 1 point
    Welcome back and thanks for looking in, After a comment at last week’s club meet (you cut me deep Shrek), I thought I should document my minimalistic approach to progress. The fuselage upper gun position piece has been bisected and added to the fuselage: The flap section has also been assembled and test fitted to the wing: The engine assembly had its various cooler flaps and covers test assembled and dry fitted: Work on the fuel cell insert continues with some card shim added to get the fit even: It was then that I realised the wheel bay assembly would need to be installed before the fuel cells. I have followed the HPH instructions but probably should have deviated and installed the MLG bay before cementing the wing halves together. Anyway, after some considered dry fitting and a couple of hours,I came up with a sequence to install which will hopefully prove the least testing: I also removed all the alignment peg positions on the fuselage as they are superfluous and will need tidying up as well: So forward to the end of the year!
  34. 1 point
    Thanks! Ya...that flash!...I'll watch my complaining next time I'm working on a mainstream injected kit with a bit of flash here or there. I've started adding the kit supplied photo-etch...hahahahahaha yaaaa right! The photo-etch I'm adding to the model here is left over from Kitty Hawks 1/32 OV 10 Bronco, more grilles will be added above the ones shown on the top of the sponson (I think for the A/C turbine??) I've also begun fitting the main L/G legs and will add a bit more detailing inside the gear well later...maybe. After laying on my back on the hangar floor for about fifteen minutes trying to determine what color the gear bay is I settled on white with an overcoat of clear yellow and a dirty brown wash. The brown wash is my interpretation of the anti-corrosive? spray all over the place in there. As well, the rear wall of the bay has a black rubbery coating on it (gravel guard?) anyway, here's where I'm at tonight. The sponson before opening it up to add the bottom vents, which if I'm going to be honest about, I was going to put in place before adding the sponson but forgot...or I got in too big of a rush. Lower vents in place and one leg being fitted Thanks for looking!
  35. 1 point

    Lt.Col. Maxwells BUSTER

    i dont have a lot of time lately, allthough i have primed the complete assembly
  36. 1 point

    Airfix Mosquito Conversion to MK XVI

    First rough fit for the new exhaust, I really like this printing from MODEL-MONKEY, the parts are really clean !!!
  37. 1 point
    I've finally got the engines glued onto the model. These pictures have them glued in place and being faired in with Tamiya putty. The props aren't attached yet but pressed into place. The landing gear sponson (belly pod is also having it's final attachment points refined as closely as I can get.
  38. 1 point
    One quick gaze at the bench: The wings are finally on and clean up on the seams is almost completed. I started dry fitting the canopy. Next step will be masking the inside and putting on some RLM02.
  39. 1 point

    1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"

    hello again fellow modellers Hi Jay - it's just a cheap Chinese one, but seems perfectly adequate for my needs - I just need to learn how to use it Ahh - that is one good looking Spit - but having done one, I doubt I will do another (especially as it was my favourite Mark..) They are really useful - thanks Chek, I have lots of resto shots, but very, very few of it actually finished so these are brilliant! ..I have been away much of the week, so just a little more done - but each part is one more step towards completion! ..firstly, the control column was finished & painted - I just need to work out what to make the canvas gaiter from as all the materials I have the weave is over scale.. ..and dry fitted in place.. ..next, the rudder pedals... these are in Lopes Hope... a very obvious feature is the writing on the faces ..this was taken care of by making PE parts - here the rounded shape is being imparted by taping & rolling over some brass rod.. ..soon the base pedals were made.. ..then a kit of parts assembled, including the forks that hold them.. ..I checked and only the bottom of the assembly can be seen, so all the upper gubbins was pretty much ignored.. ..and these were then painted and some light scuffing - washes & weathering will come much later... ..thats it for now.. TTFN Peter
  40. 1 point

    Some armour builds

    I took a break from most of the kits on my bench and decided to start a couple new builds over the last month and a bit. To mix it up, I went with some 1/35 armour kits. First up is the Miniart Dingo Mk1b Some of the parts were truly small.
  41. 1 point

    1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat

    Off on holiday tomorrow (vacation for those of you across the pond ) so I’ll be leaving this alone for a week or so, but I have made some progress on the wings. Very detailed structural work, fit was good. One wing will be folded so you need to concentrate on which bit of the instructions you need to be looking at as different parts required... Guy
  42. 1 point

    1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"

    Ehmm, Peter, there's something new and shining flying over England these days: G-IRTY by David Whitworth, on Flickr But I think you're not thinking about your next project yet, are you? Juraj
  43. 1 point

    New Modelling Den

    I think you could put some ropes under the roof to hang all the sprues there. So you can get rid of all the boxes... It would require some sort of systematic approach though to be able to find the right sprue within a reasonable time. Maybe it's not such a good idea... Juraj
  44. 1 point

    IMAM Ro43 1/32 scratch-built

    I used Top Studio 0.6 mm rivets (TD23086) as screws and rivets from Archer as rivets. The upper wing under construction.
  45. 1 point

    Academy AH-1Z Viper

    Here some more pics.
  46. 1 point

    1/32 F-5E Kittyhawk Double job

    Gents, the updates: Kit nº1 panel assembled: nº2: The joint glued, corrected with CA glue, sanded, and rescribed: The front unit glued: Result so far: Now let's bring the 2nd kit up to that point Paulo.
  47. 1 point
    Thomas, there's definitely a floor in the back. I think Ray was commenting on the kit not having included one. Yours looks great. When I did mine, I glued on some fine grit sandpaper to replicate the nonslip surface. Carl
  48. 1 point
    Maybe it doesn't look exactly like mine, something was there. I dont beleive the mid gunners were standing on the fuselage shell, also for movement to/from the tail something had to be there.
  49. 1 point
    Rick K

    Special Hobby Tempest V

    Absolutely! Well, for me at least. This is a great PE tool as well Brass Assist Roller Set. Thing about these tools is they sit in my drawer for a long, long time and I sometimes question why I spent the money for these. Then that moment comes when the tool is handy and saves the day.
  50. 1 point

    F-11F Tiger 1/32 revival!!!

    You guys make me laugh as some of those models you wish for are available as vac forms from me. I don't understand that when the manufacturers state that they are not comercially viable that you continue to dismiss Vac forms as a voodo art or something. They are nothing more than basic shapes granted but this is where the skill of the modeller comes in. I get it that not everyone desired to spend the effort making these type of models but with some work they can look spectacular and you will have the model of the aircraft that you always wanted! I am afraid that it will be down to people like me to produce these limited market models and if you really want somehting then don't be afraid and have a go. I suspect that some of those who decry Vac forms have never tried them and are happy to be assemblers of plastic and resin accessories. I can tell you that from eperience that often some the the so called modern kits are just as awkward as vacs and more work. Some resin kits are really bad and some resin accessories just dont fit so the work you do to make them fit is not far off the level of work required to assemble a vac form. Please dont be blinkered by the comments of others and have a go you may end up with something that you really wanted.
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