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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    good evening my fellow model nuts :) well, I have to confess there is no witchcraft, the pedals and the lettering on them are simple etch parts derived from the plans - the etch drawing just says dissolve a layer of metal (and create the shape) but leave the lettering untouched - bingo you get nice raised letters - I did the same on the fuel tank selector panel you will see in a minute... ..as for the tiny parts, they are just made by deconstructing the thing I want to make into simple shapes and then cutting, filing, drilling stock to get the same ingredients :) again, not a huge amount to show, but I want to try as best as possible to keep a weekly log, so this week's challenge was the collection of fuel control gubbins that sits below the main instrument panel (in fact the switchpanel below that but whatever) - seen here: ..for the central control selector I designed two methods - I had a decal made, and I tried making an etch part with all the lettering so I could paint it black and sand off the top layer to leave the letters and lines.. ..the remaining parts were made up from sheet or bits & bobs... ..these were then painted & assembled - you can see I used the etch part for the fuel control rather than the decal.. ..and they were added to the lower switch panel using templates to set the angles they all sit at.. ..and thats it for this week - told you it wasn't much :) ..need to start getting the cockpit pod ready for assembly now, at which point the weathering will be added to make it a little less toy like.. TTFN Peter
  2. 8 points
    Here it is finally finished ... the paintings ak real are great to use ... a little rest and zou it will be necessary that I finish the other 109! A huge thank you to Vincent Kermorgan and jean-claude Mermet for their invaluable help! See more on my FB's page: https://www.facebook.com/125768474675320/posts/431152264136938/
  3. 6 points
    GrahamF

    SB2C

    I think Resin has got a bit of a bad reputation left by some earlier companies that started doing them years ago so a lot of modellers or to be more accurate 'assemblers' just assume that all resin kits have big casting blocks on them that are a PIA to remove, trouble is that's not true of some of us, I can't think of any of our parts in our kits that have that and are at most just a gentle wiggle and come off the sprue, I suppose that's because we are not crashing them out in double quick time, more care is needed to cast this way as the moulds have a thinner and smaller fluid 'gate' to produce the castings this way. However the damage is done now so that's why on average one only sells about 60 off kits and I don't think it's anything to do with price, we've proved that. It's a bit of shame because we use 3D CNC to create that 'manufactured look' for our parts and there's no whittling the parts out of wood and uneven matching of parts because it's all done in the CAD and machining. Graham
  4. 5 points
    baffozac

    IMAM Ro43 1/32 scratch-built

    Hello, Little work on the fin: Contrail profile and Gaspatch turnbuckle. Left upper wing And a blank mouting to motivate me.
  5. 5 points
    John Everett

    Hughes 500, Nichimo, 1/20

    GeeWhiz. Has it been two months already? Paint is on and much of the heavy work is complete. I'll finish up the details and get it photographed in the next week or so. Window to hull fit here...not so much. I think the fuselage side may have warped a little during its four decades of storage. But this side fit very well. I started work on the base this morning. I'm not sure how much effort I want to make there. But I'm thinking yachtboard helipad.
  6. 4 points
    Ok so some of you may know, I had every intention of producing a HPH Catalina in respect of this GB, and I must be completely honest, of late, I had felt a little burnt out with modelling, that and other "real life" projects getting in the way of any spare time. That said, I am now coming out to play but for various reasons I cannot do the Catalina as intended, (bearing in mind the 32 Sig table theme for Telford was Navy) I have now committed to producing the HK version of the Dambuster Lanc which Neil at HK has graciously made available for my to build in time for Telford. I now have approaching 5 months rather than the 5 weeks I had last year so hopefully I can 1. produce some sort of WIP as required by this GB, 2, savour a little more of the engineering involved in this kit and 3. produce something resembling the famous aircraft. OK so, the kit goes without saying, It is HK's brand new not quite to market yet, Dambuster. I will be adding only Petes Airscale panel set and replacing the kit guns withe the set from master barrels. Started the Airscale panels a while ago as a "standalone" model before even the Dambuster hoved into view. This is where I am at the start. So hopefully I can build and post as I have a very poor track record of WIP builds. Tons of Plastic. A full lancaster with the addition of the upkeep mine and launch mechanism, a second addendum to the instruction booklet and a set of decals representing Guy Gibsons famous special 464 Lancaster. Here goes nothing!
  7. 4 points
    The David Brown should be ready during August. Graham
  8. 4 points
    Neo

    Dragon BF 110 D (Completed)

    here we are i dont have a picture of the front but that is where most of the damage from the wash is, the yellow looks really dirty and there are 2 spots on the shark mount that the paint was damaged all the way down to the base coat, so i strategically added some dirt with tamiya weathering pastels
  9. 4 points
    Jan_G

    SB2C

    here is the pic of the SB2C sprue in IM as posted by Andreas in first post as Kev said already you need to be logged in to see the pics ond that forum jan
  10. 3 points
    miketippingmodels

    1/32 REVELL GR4 TORNADO

    Hi guys I used aires resin cockpit and ejector seats, and engines for this build, with majority of my new favourite paint MRP, the figures are Reed oak of corse. Just a bit about the build represents IN FEBRUARY 2015 NUMBER 12 SQUADRON CELEBRATED ITS CENTENARY AND THE MARKINGS APPLIED TO GR.4ZA405 INCLUDING A PANEL LISTING THE UNITS BATTLE HONOURS. ALSO SEEN HERE IS THE SQUADRON BADGE WHICH FEATURES OF FOXES HEAD FAMOUSLY ADOPTED WHEN THE UNIT BECAME THE ONLY RAF OPERATOR OF THE FAIRY FOX IN 1926.
  11. 3 points
    ericg

    RAAF FAC OV-10A Finished!

    Thanks Brian. I do like your white EZline idea it looks great. I was a little concerned at how it might react to paint and washes over time though. Another action shot of Graham. Some more work. I tidied up up the wiring, glueing short lengths of plastic rod onto the fuse boxes to simulate plugs and sticking the lead wire into them. They should look pretty good once painted. I carved some T shaped fire handles from plastic card and installed them on the rear IP Much has been said about the way the wings, booms and fuselage join together. This is one area of the kit that I think could have been done a bit better. I assembled a long spar that went from one wingtip to the other. This was made from plastic tube for ease of glueing it into the wings with styrene glue. I then used a length of brass square tube, to allow me to bend and set the angles of the wing in case of any alignment issues and then used some think music wire in the middle for overall strength. Wings attached.
  12. 3 points
    Yes, indeed, and thanks for the plug! The set is tentatively set for a mid-August release pending any "life happens" events. More 1/32 Beaufighter products coming soon, too.
  13. 3 points
    Well.....I finished the screw head application but still need to weather the framing somewhat to tone the brightness of the screw detail down. They pop just a little too loudly.
  14. 3 points
    dutik

    Make the others jealous

    I've got printed Well, not the whole book. But there is a fistful of my photos inside Regards - dutik
  15. 3 points
    blackbetty

    Lt.Col. Maxwells BUSTER - FINISHED

    started the metalizing process
  16. 3 points
    @tomprobert The nose art is pretty simple and have closer-up pics from nose to tail, with 007 tail number. I thought the same thing except 1/144 or 1/72 scale. would be unique.
  17. 3 points
    I did decide to leave it alone, looks dark but after applying one side of the decals i'm good with how it looks. I used Tamiya spraycan glosscoat, stuff works great!! Decals applied nicely, no hassles at all. The white and light blue do set the dark blue off, i'll have to remember this shade, looks like Cobalt Blue... Bought two more funnycar kits, though they are 1/25 scale, after this is done i'll start in on them. Don
  18. 3 points
    It took me some time but the canopy is finally masked! The eduard express masks were a huge help but they are unfortunately only for the exterior. The inside recieved Tamiya tape which was then cut to shape with a fresh blade. Here's the result:
  19. 3 points
    mgbooyv8

    Italeri F-35A RNethAF

    As mentioned in the previous post, the main landing gear was installed. Remember that the instructions wanted you to put in the main gear in an early stage. Putting it in later could be troublesome. Well, indeed, withhout modification it would not be possible. The trick was to enlarge the holes a little bit and make the top surface of the pin above the main gear strut angled instead of 90 degrees by filing it skewed. I hope this makes sense, I forgot to take a picture of it. This way you can swing the main gear leg into position by rotating it around the side stay in the vertical gear bay wall. The gear legs will then click into position. By adding the drag brace (the forward strut) and the retraction jack, the gear will be secured in place. Here are the results: Then, work started on the stores: the GBU-31 JDAMs and the AIM120 AMRAAMs: The photo-etch parts on the JDAM's was fiddly to bend. In hindsight, I should have annealed these parts first. Painted and decalled, the weapons look like this: The AMRAAMS: The JDAMs without pylons: And here the JDAMs with pylons: And here are the weapons installed in the weapon bays: To be continued! Cheers, Peter
  20. 3 points
    b757captain

    HPH F7F Tigercat

    More pics: Thanks for looking! Mark
  21. 3 points
    Ok... I'm a mechanical engineer and whenever the bosses realize we have a problem... we don't... we have a challenge I have a challenge He he, but I guess I knew that, but kept repressing the fact :-) Anyway, I've been sorting out a lot of stuff - working on the nose section, gear legs etc etc
  22. 3 points
    John Everett

    Hughes 500, Nichimo, 1/20

    Just realized I've not updated in a long time. There's progress: There's been even more added to the engine bay. But I don't have pictures of it yet. Thanks for watching! John
  23. 2 points
    kensar

    Hanriot HD.2 scratchbuild

    This is my scratchbuilt Hanriot HD.2 I built for a group build on WW1aircraftmodels.com. The only commercially made parts are the engine (WNW), machine guns (Eduard), and instrument face decals (Airscale). Enjoy!
  24. 2 points
    With my Hasegawa Bf109F-4 in the books and the recon 110 nearing the painting stage - I thought I might start my next build. With three german planes in a row an allied bird will be a welcome variation. Choosing the Spitfire as my next build wasn't too hard to decide but which one? A Tamiya Mk.VIII or IX? - a Revell Mk.II or one of the Malta Mk.Vs (converted from Revell Mk.II)? Ultimately my choice fell on a recon Spit (no wonder since I'm into recon planes). A conversion to PRXI is to much butchering for me right now - so FRIX it is! (source: IPMS réal côté - for discussion only) I'll build one of the famous Spitfires in PRU pink - MK716 as shown above. The inventory for this project: Since the Revell kit is cheap as hell (at least in Germany) I can justify putting more money in AM than the kit itself: eduard brassin cockpit eduard exhausts eduard fabric seatbelts Master cannon barrels Barracuda wheels - maybe I just go with the Revell wheels with the PE covers from my Tamiya kit The camera window in the fuselage will be scribed with the template from Alleycat (the PRXI conversion is already ordered).
  25. 2 points
    Rick K

    Special Hobby Tempest V

    This build has been on and off the SOD for well over a year. Back to the bench and I hope to finish this before the apocalypse .
  26. 2 points
    Miloslav1956

    P-51D-25 "Blondie" Tamiya

    P-51D-25 "Blondie" Build Miroslav Knížek Painting Miloslav Hrabaň 1/32 Tamiya HGW wet tansfer set Colours HGW & Gunze
  27. 2 points
    b757captain

    HPH F7F Tigercat

    Hiya fellas, I managed to finally finish the HPH Tigercat! I gotta say it looks pretty impressive sitting next to its WWII cousins. Photos and even being next to one in person doesn't do the Tigercat justice as to its size - it's a big airplane, especially siting next to a Spitfire or -109! Thoughts on the kit: There's lots in the box, tons of detail and multiple subassemblies. Not as intricate as the Helldiver I did last year but still plenty to do. Most of the cockpit detail can be seen, not as much in the main wheel wells, very little in the nose wheel well (more on that later), and most of the engine detail cannot be seen if cowled up. Parts fit is mostly good - for a resin kit - and surface detail is good throughout. Having read and followed Brian's build thread on this kit I was aware of some of the shortcomings in the main wheel wells and outer wing panel misalignment but that really didn't bother me so I pressed on . After looking at period photos of parked F7Fs I noticed that the nose gear doors are almost fully closed on the ground so most of the detail in the nose wheel well can't be seen, so I didn't spend too much time there. Just built up the subassembly as per the instructions. Main wheel wells are pretty complicated with lots of bulkheads to be added. These areas really beg for superdetailing but again I just stuck with the kit parts. Engines are gems and would look really good sitting on a stand, or with the cowls removed. The cockpit really shines, with lots of room to see all the goodies. General construction is pretty straightforward and with not too much cursing the fuselage and wings/nacelles will come together. I had read from the other build that the nose weights didn't fit well, but on mine they fit just fine. Some filler on the seams and rescribing of the lost panel lines (didn't go overboard on redoing the rivets). Note of caution here: It is a tail-sitter even with all the weight provided in the kit! I even drilled the trailing edge of the stab at the elevator joint to remove some material from the horizontal stab and it still plopped on the tail. Phooey! No need for the brass nose gear! Paint is MM Dark Sea Blue. I decided to forego any weathering aside from light exhaust staining though I did go with a semi-gloss clear coat to knock the shine down a little. Overall, I put the kit in the win column. There's a 1/32 Tigercat on the shelf, which was the goal! On to the pics: More pics to follow, Cheers, Mark
  28. 2 points
    cnq

    Apollo collection

    I've just started my Apollo collection just in time for 50 Years Anniversary of the Apollo. All kits are from Revell 1/32 Command Service Module 1/8 Astronaut 1/48 Lunar Landing Excursion Module 1/144 Apollo Saturn 5 (with 1/6 pilots )
  29. 2 points
    Propwash

    B-17 in town!

    Had an amazing experience yesterday on what I thought was going to be an uneventful Sunday. Decided to dash on over to the local Wally Mart for a few odds and ends. To avoid city traffic, I took a back road the runs past the Caldwell, Idaho, Municipal Airport. Approaching the airport, I couldn't believe my eyes. Parked in front of the operations building was a B-17 in WW II camouflage. I had to stop for a look. Only a few people were there, including one of the crew, who had set up a info booth. Realizing this was I rare opportunity, I headed for the aircraft --which was named "Ye Olde Pub" Previously, I had only seen B-17s at crowded airshows. I chatted with the crewman for a while. I asked him what model the aircraft was. He said it was a G which had been backdated to an F. I asked if I could have a look inside, and he said yes. A rare opportunity. At the aforementioned airshows, an interior tour had always required a long wait in the hot sun, which I declined. I took a number of pictures of the exterior and then went inside. I had heard that the interior of a B-17 was cramped, but until actually seeing it first-hand, I never realized just how cramped it really was. I'm not a big guy, but to me it seemed almost claustrophobic. I could barely squeeze past the upright in the bomb bay. I can only imagine what it must have been like wearing a bulky flight suit. Bailing out, with the aircraft going down in a spin, would have been a very dicey proposition. I continued taking pictures of the interior. Then returned to reality and my shopping expedition. When I woke up this morning, the first thing I thought was did that really happen, or was it a dream? But I have the pictures to prove it. I'll try to post them later today, once I get the hang of Photobucket.
  30. 2 points
    John Everett

    Hughes 500, Nichimo, 1/20

    I meet a lot of modelers who say they have this kit. But none of them seem to be building it. I'll be adding some interior detail.
  31. 2 points
    Kagemusha

    SB2C

    Two..? Surely one resin, which I'm guessing will be obsolete, and a second in plastic. Silver Wings have the Val and Kate as future releases.
  32. 2 points
    Model_Monkey

    Minor Forum Upgrade

    If only my Windows 10 updates were as smooth....
  33. 2 points
    Here's some sage advice on PRU pink. https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234956899-pru-pink/ Cheers Dennis
  34. 2 points
    Here's the other side : Looks like they just brush painted the black over the original green.
  35. 2 points
    The ones in the video are 8000lb bombs, you can tell by the openings in the tail where it meets the bomb body, the 4000lb one had a solid drum with no cut outs. This video shows the back end of the 4000lb bombs were solid: while the 8000lb ones were open, note the cut outs as well: and if you want, an early version of the 4000lb Cookie: Jari
  36. 2 points
    @tomprobert This is the damaged area of the one Ghost Rider replaced. 49th Operational Test Squadron
  37. 2 points
    D.B. Andrus

    SB2C

    Don't they, though? Hope they will drop the price range into do-able.
  38. 2 points
    joker

    Silhouette weirdness

    Morning all...I've been in the graphic design and sign industry for over 30 years..and have used vinyl plotters for at least 25 of them..they all work the same...not to worry, just remember to save the layout, in case there is an issue..save save save.. Regards, Peter
  39. 2 points
    Neo

    Dragon BF 110 D (Completed)

    Thanks guys. So the issue i ran into is that the thinner i used to whipe away the wash was too powerfull and ripped trought the clear and the paint. The main clear coat was Alclad klear gloss. After doing one wing the clear was getting attacked so i stopped and applied tamiya x-22 then tried again. I had the same issue. Im using MM enamel thinner to clean the panel wash that id Tamiya panel line accent brown. Followint Brian suggestions im going to get some mineral spirits and give that a try next time. My main pet peave is that the panel line wash ended hup more a sluge where all the paint got stained it does give it a dirty used look but thats not what i was going for. So the cockpit is now way too clean for the outside. Ill post some final pics soon. I have stab counterweight and boarding lader left to install Cheers
  40. 2 points
    ShelbyGT500

    Me-109 E-3-a Royal BG Air Force

    Thanks Gaz, Kev and Michael :) after short break I think it is time to finish this project ;) So continue with detailing the fuselage: Wheels, rims and gears are painted and weathered: And the prop is ready for decals :) Cheers friends :)
  41. 2 points
    Simmo.b

    Junkers D1 Speed Build FINISHED!!

    DAY 3 A small update this time. The engine is complete, painted in Alclad and then given a coat of MIG neutral wash to grime it up a bit. I wired up the first 2 cylinders on the port side as these will be the only visible cylinders once the engine covers go on. I have also completed the dash. Next time I hope to have the internals together and get the fuselage halves together. thanks for looking in.
  42. 2 points
    Gewehr 43

    SB2C

    Oh my. An injection molded A-20 is a must have.
  43. 2 points
    mgbooyv8

    Italeri F-35A RNethAF

    Sorted! Anyway, where were we... ah, yes! After making the canopy frame, I attached the hinges to almost all the doors and gave their interiors an additional layer of white: The small doors were put into the outer weapon and the main gear legs were painted :bay doors Deviating from the instructions, I installed the large inner weapon bay doors first: Followed by the small inner weapon bay doors: This way, they were much easier to install than toe other way around, as suggested by the instructions. Adding the pylons for the AMRAAMs was very fiddly. what I should have done was putting their mounting plates to the hinges of the small inner doors, before mounting them to the fuselage. This acually WAS suggested by the instructions! Now I had to remove small alignment pins in order to make them fit. Here are the results: The outer weapon bay doors were easier to install, but nevertheless fiddly due to the large amount of hinges: On the picture, the main landing gear is already installed. To be continued in the next post... Cheers, Peter
  44. 2 points
    I just cobbled together this hand-drawn template that I used on my build. I'm not friendly with computer graphics software, but I included a scale at the bottom in inches and mm. I can send the full-size file in an email. If anyone can clean these up in a suitable program that would be a big help, and appreciated. The wingspar is based on the drawing in the book published by Patrick Stephens. The other bits were templates I drew for improving parts of the kits, especially the gear doors and wheel well roof with the ribs. The resulting parts required some sanding and dry-fitting but it worked. You can see how they were used in my "In Progress" thread below. This is how it ended up looking: But...if you can wait a while, ModelMonkey is going to be producing a wingspar/wheel well fix, and their products are brilliant. They have a shape-corrected cowling for the Airfix Mustang, as well as exhausts and shrouds, radios and one type of seat. All of them are sharp and accurate, so I am expecting the same for the wingspar and wheel wells.
  45. 2 points
    curiouslysophie

    1/32 Revell FW-190 F-8

    After a bit of a delay, and getting so into the build I forgot to take more photographs; here is the Fw-190 with some paint on. It’s not the best job, I’m still learning (constructive criticism always welcome!), and I made a bit of an error with the landing light. Having seen one on the clear sprue I cut out the space for it before I realised the F-8’s didn’t have them! I patched it in, but it showed up under the paint. My story for the plane now is that it had a replacement wing from a night fighter and the ground crews removed and covered up the landing light. I masked the crosses as I thought it would look better than decals, and I’m happy with them. I’ll use decals for the numbers and side crosses, though they’ll have to wait for the gloss coat to go on. Definitely going to swap away from Vallejo paints though, they are a pain! Now for pictures!
  46. 2 points
    tchwrma

    1/32 F-5E Kittyhawk Double job

    Rudy, thanks for your kind words, but I'm sure of these lights. And a curiosity: The lights on the sidewinder pod are red and green, but the round ligths in the wing are red and blue, in the same way of the ones in the inlets of the fuselage. At least in the Brazilian jets. Cheers, Paulo.
  47. 2 points
    tchwrma

    1/32 F-5E Kittyhawk Double job

    Hi, guys! After some time in posting the updates of the kits, besides that I had made progress in the kits, I failed in update the jobs. So let's go: I was unhappy with the Wheel bays, so I decided to made some scratch to get a better results. I sanded the original tubing. and created the tubing of the bays using brass tubes. The results: This work gave me so many troubles, tat I decided to made the scratch in only one kit, leaving the other one OOB. Here the two planes completely assembled: Here a modification (I can't resist). The position lights of the kit are quite ugly, and not create a good shape in the wingtip pod. So I discarded them and made new ones, with colored plastic. Much better, I believe: Here, finally I received the Archer rivets set. One part absent in the kit, as the Kittyhawk kit are not an F-5E, but an F-5N, is the windshield cleaning pod. I copied in resin from the pod included in the hasegawa kit. Here applied: So after the correction of some issues, finally I started to paint them. First color in the two(Brown in the 4870 and grey in the 4857) Soon, more updates. Cheers, Paulo.
  48. 2 points
    Just realised I forgot to include the progress (sort of) for the upper wing fuel area. The new piece was inserted into the wing and glued section at a time to conform to the wing contour. Unfortunately in drilling out the forward opening, I overlooked it so a piece of card was shaped and inserted into the hole. It will be smoothed out in the putty and sanding works: The interior has had some more of the styrene ribs removed to accomodate the two fuel filler port boxes. These will be thinned in a box shape some more to get the fit level: The inspection ports have been drilled out to accept the PE covers and they will sit flush: Thanks for looking in.
  49. 2 points
    hello and thaks so much for your comments. I'm really glad that this may inspire and transmit a bit of will to try that theme ! paintwork is about a bit of discipline, which i hate, but which here is rewarding. I used Infini brand sanders from 600 to all the way up to get rid of the plastic grain and polish the NMF areas. Then some Mr Color GX-2 with Mr Levelling Thinner for a slow and stretched curing. If needed or if any touch ups has been done, rebuff. Then a nice layer of KColor Aliminum 15 and you end up with a shiny shine thing. But also very white an neutral which i need for my B&W thing. KColor are alcohol based so adding a few drop ofGunze H77 tyre black gave the shadowing and weathering shade. Srayed far, it's grayish, sprayed close it's a bit darker. I did some freehand shadings and some stencil-through srpraying to create all the artefacts. An interesting pic i've been provided with shows some light lines above rivets lines with displaced shadows: this has been simply done my using thin strips of masking tape and a fine spray on top of it. Then scratches and texture: i used some sanding pads from inifini brand: 2500 grit for general texturing, 1000 grit to scratch areas covered with the darkest shadows. You want to let the pad slide on the paint with no push and let it catch the weathering miw that is a bit flat. A final mist of pure KColor Aluminium 15 helped ajudsting contrasts. thanks again for that kick of motivation Fanch
  50. 2 points
    Afternoon guys! This post will finish up all the interior detail I needed to do before closing both top and bottom halves of the fuselage and then I can proceed to finish off the detail on the exterior of the fuselage. So what needed to be done was the ammunition belts from the emergency ammunition cans and the oxygen bottle for the gunner. I'll start with the ammunition belts.....By using just paper and wire I'd thought I would show you how I went about this task ..photo by photo... 1. The first task was to cut 4 pieces of paper to the length/width of the belts....I used paper as it will bend like a real ammo belt... 2. As you can see I then cut all 4 pieces..(you will see in the next few photos why I did this!)... 3. I then got some garden metal wire twine (I chose this as it looked the right scale for the rounds)... 4. This then had to be straightened using a flat piece of metal rolled across the top of a length of wire...... 5. After measuring the width of the pieces of paper I then had to cut... (loads!!).... of pieces of wire which would replicate the rounds,....laborious task!...although I don't actually mind doing it!! 6. These were the super glued onto 2 of the 4 strips of paper.... 7. Then the other strips of paper were glued over the top of the rounds This is the time that I bent the paper to the shape I needed.... 8. A couple strips of paper were cut and glued to both sides of the belts to make them look more authentic and I then painted them..... So now all I had to do was super glue one end of the belts to the ammo cans and hook up the other ends on a couple of posts....(the reason for this is that because I have exposed the top of the ball turret I couldn't glue them to the entry point of the turret!)...here are a few photos of the task complete...... The last task to do before closing the two halves was to scratch the oxygen tank for the gunner. I have so far made loads of oxygen tanks for this project so I just made them the same way as before....and that is a sanded down piece of balsa wood with plastic strips glued to them!......here it is.... I then glued the tank onto the post and made a couple of paper straps ....to replicate the securing straps! So here is the finished Ball turret connection structure...... So now its at long last time to place the top to the bottom!!..ha ha! I am now getting close to the end of the Radio room section of this B17G....the external detail will now have to be thought about before proceeding......so I'll see you all the next time around! Thanks again for looking in Fozzy
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