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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/14/2019 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    good evening my fellow model nuts :) well, I have to confess there is no witchcraft, the pedals and the lettering on them are simple etch parts derived from the plans - the etch drawing just says dissolve a layer of metal (and create the shape) but leave the lettering untouched - bingo you get nice raised letters - I did the same on the fuel tank selector panel you will see in a minute... ..as for the tiny parts, they are just made by deconstructing the thing I want to make into simple shapes and then cutting, filing, drilling stock to get the same ingredients :) again, not a huge amount to show, but I want to try as best as possible to keep a weekly log, so this week's challenge was the collection of fuel control gubbins that sits below the main instrument panel (in fact the switchpanel below that but whatever) - seen here: ..for the central control selector I designed two methods - I had a decal made, and I tried making an etch part with all the lettering so I could paint it black and sand off the top layer to leave the letters and lines.. ..the remaining parts were made up from sheet or bits & bobs... ..these were then painted & assembled - you can see I used the etch part for the fuel control rather than the decal.. ..and they were added to the lower switch panel using templates to set the angles they all sit at.. ..and thats it for this week - told you it wasn't much :) ..need to start getting the cockpit pod ready for assembly now, at which point the weathering will be added to make it a little less toy like.. TTFN Peter
  2. 9 points


    here is the pic of the SB2C sprue in IM as posted by Andreas in first post as Kev said already you need to be logged in to see the pics ond that forum jan
  3. 6 points

    HPH F7F Tigercat

    Hiya fellas, I managed to finally finish the HPH Tigercat! I gotta say it looks pretty impressive sitting next to its WWII cousins. Photos and even being next to one in person doesn't do the Tigercat justice as to its size - it's a big airplane, especially siting next to a Spitfire or -109! Thoughts on the kit: There's lots in the box, tons of detail and multiple subassemblies. Not as intricate as the Helldiver I did last year but still plenty to do. Most of the cockpit detail can be seen, not as much in the main wheel wells, very little in the nose wheel well (more on that later), and most of the engine detail cannot be seen if cowled up. Parts fit is mostly good - for a resin kit - and surface detail is good throughout. Having read and followed Brian's build thread on this kit I was aware of some of the shortcomings in the main wheel wells and outer wing panel misalignment but that really didn't bother me so I pressed on . After looking at period photos of parked F7Fs I noticed that the nose gear doors are almost fully closed on the ground so most of the detail in the nose wheel well can't be seen, so I didn't spend too much time there. Just built up the subassembly as per the instructions. Main wheel wells are pretty complicated with lots of bulkheads to be added. These areas really beg for superdetailing but again I just stuck with the kit parts. Engines are gems and would look really good sitting on a stand, or with the cowls removed. The cockpit really shines, with lots of room to see all the goodies. General construction is pretty straightforward and with not too much cursing the fuselage and wings/nacelles will come together. I had read from the other build that the nose weights didn't fit well, but on mine they fit just fine. Some filler on the seams and rescribing of the lost panel lines (didn't go overboard on redoing the rivets). Note of caution here: It is a tail-sitter even with all the weight provided in the kit! I even drilled the trailing edge of the stab at the elevator joint to remove some material from the horizontal stab and it still plopped on the tail. Phooey! No need for the brass nose gear! Paint is MM Dark Sea Blue. I decided to forego any weathering aside from light exhaust staining though I did go with a semi-gloss clear coat to knock the shine down a little. Overall, I put the kit in the win column. There's a 1/32 Tigercat on the shelf, which was the goal! On to the pics: More pics to follow, Cheers, Mark
  4. 6 points
    Troy Molitor


    Oh my. Good news indeed. The Me 410 would also be a must have injection molded kit if they continue down that road.
  5. 5 points
    With my Hasegawa Bf109F-4 in the books and the recon 110 nearing the painting stage - I thought I might start my next build. With three german planes in a row an allied bird will be a welcome variation. Choosing the Spitfire as my next build wasn't too hard to decide but which one? A Tamiya Mk.VIII or IX? - a Revell Mk.II or one of the Malta Mk.Vs (converted from Revell Mk.II)? Ultimately my choice fell on a recon Spit (no wonder since I'm into recon planes). A conversion to PRXI is to much butchering for me right now - so FRIX it is! (source: IPMS réal côté - for discussion only) I'll build one of the famous Spitfires in PRU pink - MK716 as shown above. The inventory for this project: Since the Revell kit is cheap as hell (at least in Germany) I can justify putting more money in AM than the kit itself: eduard brassin cockpit eduard exhausts eduard fabric seatbelts Master cannon barrels Barracuda wheels - maybe I just go with the Revell wheels with the PE covers from my Tamiya kit The camera window in the fuselage will be scribed with the template from Alleycat (the PRXI conversion is already ordered).
  6. 5 points
    Lots of Mustang parts were painted Bronze (or more likely Dull Dark) Green by subcontractors, including the seat. For all practical purposes FS 24092 is close enough for jazz. Several paint lines (including at least MRP) make Dull Dark Green and/or Bronze Green. The pilot's headrest pad was a stuffed leather "pillow", so the leather could have been tanned any color leather could be tanned. I've never heard of OD tanned leather. The cockpit color - well, that depends. Lots of Mustangs left the factory right at the end of WWII and were immediately cocooned and put into storage. The ones that were pulled out and put in service in Korea most likely had their WWII factory cockpit colors. No reason to repaint an essentially brand new airplane (ever tried to paint a cockpit on a real airplane? Think about it...). The birds that were in service with ANG units in the US that were called up may or may not have had black cockpits if they'd been through depot maintenance before going. Hard to say, and nobody is ever going to be able to prove you wrong . One possible way to tell on the latter is if the tail number is painted in the characteristic NAA tall narrow style (factory stock) or in another style (depot repaint).
  7. 5 points


    LSP? 1/48 is blasphemy. Do they even make kits in that scale anymore.....?
  8. 5 points

    HPH F7F Tigercat

    More pics: Thanks for looking! Mark
  9. 5 points

    1/48th Boeing B-52H Stratofortress

    Here's a few quick phone pictures of the engines now they've been installed: IMG_1247 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I'm in the process of making the upper part of the pylons that extend over the wing as these are not provided in the kit - plastic card and Millput is the order of the day. These are yet to be sanded to their final shape: IMG_1248 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Larger working area needed: IMG_1246 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I'm in the process of preparing the wing fuel tanks at the moment so hopefully another update soon. Tom
  10. 4 points

    Minor Forum Upgrade

    Howdy folks, Later today (my time - it's 7am here currently) I'll be performing a minor upgrade to the forum software. I say minor, but it actually takes a while to do, and the forums will be offline for the duration. I'll try to give everyone a heads-up as it's about to happen, but no concrete time has been set yet. You can always check progress on our Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/groups/largescaleplanes/ Kev
  11. 4 points
    Rick K

    Special Hobby Tempest V

    Interior detail added. Flare rack installed, ejector marks filled with Mr Surfacer and sanded.
  12. 4 points

    Silhouette weirdness

    It works, what the hell, who cares why or how.
  13. 4 points


    Kev, looks like this was posted by Heinz who used to be member here (Vulcan32) and he used to post many inside information from HPH, because of his friendship with Jiri Hodan, owner of HPH I'm curious what will happen with the rest of the planned kits, Wyvern, SM-79 or He-177 announced a while back,I hope that they will appear in IM sooner or later with all the extras in HPH style. Btw A-20 will be delivered by HGW in IM, with positive rivets and stressed skin etc. jan
  14. 4 points

    F2H-3/4 Big Banjo

    Tail markings are done, except for the serial # and that will be decal work in the near future. You can also see the "M" tailcode which I sprayed on from my homemade stencil. Later, Dan
  15. 4 points

    1/32 Revell FW-190 F-8

    After a bit of a delay, and getting so into the build I forgot to take more photographs; here is the Fw-190 with some paint on. It’s not the best job, I’m still learning (constructive criticism always welcome!), and I made a bit of an error with the landing light. Having seen one on the clear sprue I cut out the space for it before I realised the F-8’s didn’t have them! I patched it in, but it showed up under the paint. My story for the plane now is that it had a replacement wing from a night fighter and the ground crews removed and covered up the landing light. I masked the crosses as I thought it would look better than decals, and I’m happy with them. I’ll use decals for the numbers and side crosses, though they’ll have to wait for the gloss coat to go on. Definitely going to swap away from Vallejo paints though, they are a pain! Now for pictures!
  16. 3 points
    I just returned from vacationing in Corolla, North Carolina and had a short opportunity to stop by this Museum: https://militaryaviationmuseum.org/ on my way to Norfolk Airport to drop off my daughter so she could take a flight back to Chicago. So I took some pictures with my iPhone. I hope they are helpful, or interesting. There are many. 88mm Flak 36 Typical woven 88mm shell carrying carton in background. PBY-5A This is a unique configuration for a PBY-5A. The Docent said this is the configuration in which the aircraft was built. There were no civilian modifications. Front hatch. 2 windows. I can't place the rudder. Some folks are building Fokkers. All WWI aircraft are replicas, except the Jenny, which I didn't 'photograph', as my time was short. That's all for now. I've got chores to do. Sincerely, Mark
  17. 3 points

    Hasegawa Bf 109F-4/trop 8./JG27 - Red 2

    It's done - I've completed my first LSP in (maybe) six years! Spending quite a lot of time with my Bf 110 for the group build, this fairly easy build here took me about for month. Some AM stuff was used: Aires cockpit - pretty nice and not too hard to fit CMK wheels - cheap but not much better than the kit offering Master MG17 barrels and pitot - must have for me! Barracuda exhausts (for a G-6) - easier than hollowing the kit exhausts Overall I enjoyed the build a lot, even with some minor problems with clean up on the wings the wing root is still bugging me). Something I will do from now on: using my Silhouette for cutting my own masks! Something I won't do again: using Mr.Mark softer (never again) and Hasegawa decals (way too thick) Enough words for now. Enjoy the show: Feel free to take a peak into the WiP Critics and advice what's there to improve are highly welcome! Joachim
  18. 3 points

    Polishing canopies - what do you use?

    I gave up on Future. I now use Novus plastic polishes. This stuff is the shiznit!
  19. 3 points
    I've decided I've got nothing to lose by trying, using the"spare" ATR kit to base the work around, I've begun building my own landing gear sponson. I took a couple of pictures of where it sits as of today (a double rye in a short glass is helping) It's not perfect but looking better than the one I built from the kit with the more aerodynamic shape (I may have done something wrong with the kit part to have the sides look so much like a canoe) I'll build this piece up with epoxy and sand it smooth (scribe and detail etc etc) but I'm thinking I like this version better than the kit one...now to finish it and see if I have the nerve to break the existing one off my build or just chalk it up as a learning experience and do a better job on the next one... Yes, I'll make resin copies if I get it perfect
  20. 3 points

    Dragon BF 110 D (Completed)

    here we are i dont have a picture of the front but that is where most of the damage from the wash is, the yellow looks really dirty and there are 2 spots on the shark mount that the paint was damaged all the way down to the base coat, so i strategically added some dirt with tamiya weathering pastels
  21. 3 points

    Junkers D1 Speed Build FINISHED!!

    DAY 3 A small update this time. The engine is complete, painted in Alclad and then given a coat of MIG neutral wash to grime it up a bit. I wired up the first 2 cylinders on the port side as these will be the only visible cylinders once the engine covers go on. I have also completed the dash. Next time I hope to have the internals together and get the fuselage halves together. thanks for looking in.
  22. 3 points

    Minor Forum Upgrade

    And done! Kev
  23. 3 points
    Jennings Heilig


    Or it could be that it's just too damn big. Much like 1/32 Lancasters and B-17s. Honestly, I'd much rather see someone put some effort into a new, accurate 1/48 Goon (and Lancaster, and B-17, and, and, and...)
  24. 3 points

    Italeri F-35A RNethAF

    As mentioned in the previous post, the main landing gear was installed. Remember that the instructions wanted you to put in the main gear in an early stage. Putting it in later could be troublesome. Well, indeed, withhout modification it would not be possible. The trick was to enlarge the holes a little bit and make the top surface of the pin above the main gear strut angled instead of 90 degrees by filing it skewed. I hope this makes sense, I forgot to take a picture of it. This way you can swing the main gear leg into position by rotating it around the side stay in the vertical gear bay wall. The gear legs will then click into position. By adding the drag brace (the forward strut) and the retraction jack, the gear will be secured in place. Here are the results: Then, work started on the stores: the GBU-31 JDAMs and the AIM120 AMRAAMs: The photo-etch parts on the JDAM's was fiddly to bend. In hindsight, I should have annealed these parts first. Painted and decalled, the weapons look like this: The AMRAAMS: The JDAMs without pylons: And here the JDAMs with pylons: And here are the weapons installed in the weapon bays: To be continued! Cheers, Peter
  25. 3 points

    Mil Mi-24 Hind Tiger Meet

    I got the decals applied to both sides. There aren't too many fortunately which is great for me. I also started working on the forgotten main rotor.
  26. 2 points
    Well kids.... I started all over again... New thread because the old one was just devolving into a endless stream of do overs. THIS THREAD SHALL NOT BE WHAT CAME BEFORE...THIS ONE WILL BE A FINISHED PROTOTYPE MODEL!! So a few months back my good friend Paul Fisher lost his home and wonderful workshop to fire in Paradise, CA. I am so happy he and his family escaped and in that light the mention of what comes next seems so trivial. Paul was in possession of the masters I had completed at the time of the fire so an opportunity to build a better model arose. Considering the magnitude of the work I previously completed, I started thinking about how to speed up the build. As many of you know I have turned to CNC and SLA type 3d printing to augment the hand building of the model. Until recently I had eschewed the use of FDM type printers due to the inaccuracy of the prints, and significant post processing required after printing model parts. Cost also was a factor, nothing was worth the investment versus the risk of poor parts. Enter the Tiertime Cetus MKIII. This little printer was cheap, precise and worth a gamble. The main feature that attracted me to the printer was the linear guide rails and bearing blocks. These almost guarantee accurate movement of the axises of the printer. With a price in the $300 US range it was worth a try. With the printer in hand and after some tweaking with the assembly of the printer I managed to print dimensionally accurate parts. One inch cubes were printed and were measured by digital caliper only a few ten thousands of an inch from true, and square adjacent surfaces measured with a machinist's square. So I ordered up 7,000g of PLA filament and started a-printing. On a similar journey I ordered up an Anycubic Photon MSLA printer, though this journey was much longer because the Photon required much more significant modification to get true parts. Out of the box it made fantastic parts in terms of detail. However, they parts didn't fit with others, they were skewed in the Z or vertical axis. The modification was much too complex to detail in this post, suffice to say the machine was disassembled, parts were machined true, linear rails and bearing blocks added and a new parts were machined to make it all work. Parts that came out of the machine post modification were exceptional! Now that I have three machines working simultaneously part production has definitely accelerated the pace of this build. I have also made some design changes. Outside of getting another chance to improve the model's accuracy, simplifying and streamlining the build has been a chief consideration. So the model will still be "skinned" in aluminum sheet but only where there are removable panels, the remainder of panel detail will be scribed in to a layer of primer paint. PLA is a difficult material to sand and also hygroscopic and needed to be well sealed. I'm using 2 part automotive epoxy paint (paint and hardener) to fill and "glue" the PLA layers together. The result is a surface that is much easier to sand and finish. You can see a few of the PLA parts were the black primer has been applied and finishing has started. Lastly my machining skills have improved to the point where the acrylic parts now have machined in details, rivets and reinforcing layers etc. Here's a shot of the parts so far. These parts represent the main components of the fuselage from the nose to the engine faces. More detailed photos coming as assembly commences. This will be a prototype model, so I will be finishing this one as I go, so you can look forward to finished assemblies going forward. Thanks for checking in! Timmy!
  27. 2 points

    Tamiya 1/32 F-16 Thunderbird

    I finally found and built one after all these years of waiting! OOB except for GT Resin intake; the intake looks seamless to the inlet fan. I used Microscale liquid Decal Film since I didn't want any unexpected incidents with the kit decal. Fuselage is painted in Testors Extreme Lacquer "White Lightning" and "Wet Look Clear"; the "WL" has a pearl effect, really makes the TB shine. I was worried about the stand keeping her flying, but it works perfectly.
  28. 2 points

    F-8E Crusader Trumpeter 1:32

    I started my adventure with modeling four years ago. And I wanted to show you one of the models from the beginnings of my modeling passion. At the beginning I apologize for the pictures - I know that they are very weak but I did them without studio lighting. The model is the F-8E Crusader Trumpeter 1:32, the model quite easy to build I had small problems were with the air intake. I think that you already know that I always make models straight from the box and try to present heavily exploited machines. Such painting makes for me the models are less "plastic" do not look like toys. Ovcourse it's my opinion.
  29. 2 points

    P-51D-25 "Blondie" Tamiya

    P-51D-25 "Blondie" Build Miroslav Knížek Painting Miloslav Hrabaň 1/32 Tamiya HGW wet tansfer set Colours HGW & Gunze
  30. 2 points
    Andreas Beck


    I do not know if this has been posted here before. The photo is taken from German ffmc: https://www.flugzeugforum.de/threads/hph-models.59605/page-6 The posting says HPH and Fly will be going into coop as it was the case with the Hurricane. Also the A-20 Havoc will be released as an injection kit.
  31. 2 points

    Apollo collection

    I've just started my Apollo collection just in time for 50 Years Anniversary of the Apollo. All kits are from Revell 1/32 Command Service Module 1/8 Astronaut 1/48 Lunar Landing Excursion Module 1/144 Apollo Saturn 5 (with 1/6 pilots )
  32. 2 points
    relax, at release time of that kit, the "patent issue" was NOT to mention its original brand name, viz. Vought aircraft. Don't ask me why, but they "circumnavigated" that problem by using the name "USS".........go figure.....just build the kit, you'll enjoy it.......
  33. 2 points
    Blockbuster https://military.wikia.org/wiki/Blockbuster_bomb Cookie https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:4000_lb_Cookies_and_Lancaster_at_RAF_Mildenhall_WWII_IWM_CH_17903.jpg https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205210526 Iconicair already produce a 1/32 4000 ib Cookie http://www.iconicair.com/cookie/
  34. 2 points
    Alain, I was running out of time by the time the group went into the Luftwaffe hanger. I didn't have a chance to read the signage. By the way, the photos are posted in reverse order that they were taken. It's just the way they were uploaded to the cloud. I like the Flak 36 as well. A real mean device. A couple of folks are building a Fokker, so I loaded up for them. Hope they're helpful, and that you like red. These next few I'm trying to show the tape configuration. It must have been 110 degrees in this hanger. It's about here when my phone slipped from my hand due to perspiration and fell into the cockpit. Taken from the Port side. A teaser for tomorrow. Recognize this interior? Sincerely, Mark
  35. 2 points
    Wow, talk about a worn paint job! Very helpful in many senses. Since you're in Bossier City I assume the shots are at Barksdale. Is 1007 in current service or out for surface maintenance? Cheers, D.B. (approx133 mi west of Barksdale AFB)
  36. 2 points
    A polish kit with 1000, 2000, 5000, 6000, 8000 and 12,000 is a must for me personally. And of course paint prep makes all the difference. After that for me it comes down to the clear. I prefer lacquer based clears, and I've had good luck with MM's Ultra Gloss Clear, but I usually decanted it from the rattle can. I used MM's UGC on my Fisher September Fury I've also had excellent luck with MRPs lacquer based single stage clear as well. I used that on my Extra 300 SC Afterword when the clear is well cured (I normally wait a week or so) I take Novus plastic polish and hand polish the clear to a high shine. HTH
  37. 2 points
    It took me some time but the canopy is finally masked! The eduard express masks were a huge help but they are unfortunately only for the exterior. The inside recieved Tamiya tape which was then cut to shape with a fresh blade. Here's the result:
  38. 2 points


    That's fantastic news, hope they concentrate on IM kits in the future.
  39. 2 points
    Well.....for what this is worth I got the flat coat applied. No fading on the sides but some on the upper surfaces of the bird. I'm hoping I didn't go too far.
  40. 2 points


    Both the A20 and the SB2C would be on my list if IM. Cheers Dennis
  41. 2 points
    ade rowlands


    It's interesting news for sure. The only HPH kit I've owned was the Me 410. It was an impressive kit but I sold it on, I was a little daunted by all that resin in the end. That and all the work I could foresee with sanding and removing parts from those resin puddle backings. As for Fly, I've owned and attempted to build a couple of their Hurricane kits. Stunning surface detail out of the box but I really did struggle with the cockpit and its placement and some of the detail was basic at best in there. I ended up having a totally Hulk 'me smash' moment out of sheer frustration and binned the remains and sold on my other Fly Hurricanes. So, if we get a combination of HPH and Fly surface details with some resin cockpit details maybe and any known issues with the original kits ironed out I'm certainly going to be tempted to buy. Also I hope they go with the HPH approach of everything you need except the glue and paints in the box. I know it drives up cost but I'd likely end up buying the details anyway so may as well get it done in one hit.
  42. 2 points


    It looks like you need to be a member of that German forum in order to see images posted there. This is still some pretty interesting news, however, and I can't wait for some confirmation in English. Why is Jan not posting this kind of information here in our Vendors Board? Kev
  43. 2 points
    Jennings Heilig

    Tamiya Spitfires

    Disagree. Eduard's is a Mk.IX. Apples and oranges. And honestly, I like the lack of rivets. IMHO they're massively overdone on the Eduard 1/48 stuff.
  44. 2 points

    Tiger models f4u Corsair

    Well my little Corsair is finished! Great fun to build, but something so small is quite fiddly reminds me why I don’t build 1/72! Kit is a little rough round the edges and there were several short shots, but it is what it is, captures the look of a Corsair well and will happily share cabinet space with my other models. Cheers. Matt
  45. 2 points

    AIMS Bf 109 G-6 'Graf Special'

    Nick, I have AIM's set sans tube and, yes, instructions give layout and dimensions for creating the bracing. Very complete, though the template will really help. Look forward to the new resin tube, John!
  46. 2 points
    D.B. Andrus


    From website in Andreas' post above: "HPH is breaking new ground. In the future they will invest more in cooperation with FLYModels. That was already the case with the 1/32 Hurricane. The next model in 1/32 will be the SB2C Helldiver. Also, the A-20 Havoc, which was intended as a resin model, will now appear in injection molding. One reason for this is likely to be the now sluggish sales of the not very cheap Resinmodelle. Of the C-47 only 60 pieces have been sold so far. On the big models, such as B-52 and Gigant but continues to work."
  47. 2 points

    F2H-3/4 Big Banjo

    Well I couldn't do it, couldn't wait a week for the paint to fully dry. So I have worked on the squadron markings on the tail. Not too bad, a few touch-ups. And a self made mask for the tail code. Later, Dan
  48. 2 points
    Wow! I've only done 1 even remotely like that and it was pretty labor intensive, but worth it!
  49. 2 points
    Well, i managed to get blue down. Used a Tamiya spray bomb, TS-89 Pearl Blue. Stuff always works great, first 3 coats of grey Tamiya primer with wet sanding between, then 3 coats of blue. Laid down nicely, no peel, no runs, nice metallic sheen... but it is a little two dark...have to think about this, but i think i'll let it go. Paint is hard enough to handle, but i'll let it harden for a week before painting the bumpers. Don
  50. 2 points

    1/32 Revell FW-190 F-8

    I have an H&S infinity at home, and indeed it does excel at fine line stuff like mottling. Just be aware, that the needle that H&S includes with their Infinities is as delicate as a dried flower pedal balanced on a thin wafer of candy glass. My ham fists and I have gone through 6 or 7 needles in the 5 years or so of owning it. Don't get me wrong, the ab sprays beautifully for fine line things (harder on the hand for large stuff) and the spray width adjustment on it is brilliant, but if you so much as look at the needle funny, it will bend the tip. My Iwata HP-CS is nearly as capable for fine stuff, but has the breadth to go wide too, and the needle is hell for stout. I got my HP-CS about 8 years or more ago, and I have yet to put a single replacement needle in it. Its my workhorse for sure.
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