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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/06/2019 in all areas

  1. Phoenixs

    SU-25m1 Digital Grach

    Hello to all, I can finally present you my last work: it's a Su-25m1 in force with the Ukrainian aeronautics in 1/32 scale Trumpeter kit. We found a really grueling job for a lot of reasons, the Trumpeter kits are always revealed for what they are: toys designed by people who saw the real aircraft only on photos found on the net. Without dwelling on the dimensions (they are not one of those that compare the scale drawings to verify the truthfulness) and on the details sketched or completely missing, the real problems are in the joints and in the brain-splitting decomposition of the kit; a clarifying example are the gondolas that house the engines and the very long air ducts divided into two parts that leave a line in the middle that has been eliminated. The changes have been innumerable and in each area of the aircraft, the wpp monograph on the Su-25 has been fundamental in trying to reproduce the details that the manufacturer has omitted. To make this operation easier, I have also given background to everything that the market offers in the form of aftermarket. For the coloring I used the dedicated set of the Russian firm Akan with self-produced masks with the cutting plotter. The decals are a mix of the dedicated set of Foxbot (completely wrong, I think they are about 1/25 scale ...), of the Trumpeter decals and something cannibalized by the sets dedicated to the Su-27 and Mig-29 of Begemot, especially for armaments. It took nine months of hard work. Here are the pictures:
    8 points
  2. Out2gtcha

    Wedding pics!

    Some random pics of our wedding and the absolutely STUNNING surroundings we were in........ The wife near the mouth of the lake, with skies so utterly vivid blue it almost looked fake at the time The view outside the courthouse we got our marriage licence in The wife and I right after the ceremony at nature's altar Wife and I at the actual spot we held the ceramony at For some reason I felt the need for a forest version of Captain Morgan On the way home from said ceramony Heading up to the summit of Mt Massive@ 15,000+ Mt Massive Summit Back at the Lake after the ceremony.... The weather was absolutely perfect, as is Colorado every time we visit. Cheers!
    6 points
  3. Out2gtcha

    Wedding pics!

    Been away for a bit getting hitched (pics later) but am back at home now, just perusing the forums. Jeez, ya go away for a bit and all sorts of cool and interesting things pop up! Kinda depressing being back in the high heat and humidity after a week at 11,000 ft + temps! Looking forward to getting back in the fold ladies and gents!
    3 points
  4. It's done - I've completed my first LSP in (maybe) six years! Spending quite a lot of time with my Bf 110 for the group build, this fairly easy build here took me about for month. Some AM stuff was used: Aires cockpit - pretty nice and not too hard to fit CMK wheels - cheap but not much better than the kit offering Master MG17 barrels and pitot - must have for me! Barracuda exhausts (for a G-6) - easier than hollowing the kit exhausts Overall I enjoyed the build a lot, even with some minor problems with clean up on the wings the wing root is still bugging me). Something I will do from now on: using my Silhouette for cutting my own masks! Something I won't do again: using Mr.Mark softer (never again) and Hasegawa decals (way too thick) Enough words for now. Enjoy the show: Feel free to take a peak into the WiP Critics and advice what's there to improve are highly welcome! Joachim
    3 points
  5. hello 1:144 fans! for IPMS the Netherlands I have built a test shot of their incredible AN-225, the largest aircraft in the world. And also the largest aircraft I ever built. Complete build report can be found in MIP #3 of IPMS the Netherlands. Enjoy and have a relaxiing vacation.
    3 points
  6. This is so simple.... put one together, take a photo of the assembly and post it.... To quote a famous somebody, sometime... a picture is worth a thousand words.
    3 points
  7. 3 points
  8. Off on holiday tomorrow (vacation for those of you across the pond ) so I’ll be leaving this alone for a week or so, but I have made some progress on the wings. Very detailed structural work, fit was good. One wing will be folded so you need to concentrate on which bit of the instructions you need to be looking at as different parts required... Guy
    3 points
  9. spacewolf

    Fokker DR 1

    More to do though.. the raised edging around the loading/ feed section needs a lip, built this up with scrap sheet.. and the cocking mechanism had to be built from the supplied photo etch and tiny bits of stretched sprue.. This was a nightmare... make sure you have you have good ref and pics to figure out where everything goes.. take your time, it's easy to get mixed up and screw up ! Once the paint starts flying though it looks sooooo good !!.... Vallhejo nato black was sprayed on....drybrushed with silver.. The padding was picked out in MM leather... I've ordered gaspatch ammo belts for it, in this scale everything is so visible one needs to go for the best thats out there. Anyhoo... thats it for this time ! Hope you all are enjoying and hopefully getting on with your own builds. Keep sniffin' glue !!
    3 points
  10. OK, here are the last 6. Are you bored yet? There are over 80 separate parts mounted on this splinter shield including helmets, cooling tubes, spare gun barrels, phone boxes, and tool boxes. The long baskets alongside the shield (and on the backs of the big gun turrets) are floater net baskets. They contain netting with flotation around the perimeter and are used mostly in conflict to aid those fallen or knocked overboard. Overall view of the aft deck. View of the stern showing the catapults and recovery crane. The ship carried (2) "Spotter" float planes whose job it was to search out enemy ships and to also "spot" where the big 16" shells were landing. The big 16" guns could fire a 2300 pound projectile a distance of over 20 miles, meaning the gun crews could not see where their shells were landing. The float planes were shot off the catapult by dummy 5" shells and were retrieved by the crane at the stern. Close up view of one of the catapults. These two were nightmares to build! The cradles for the float planes are mounted, but I have not built the aircraft yet. Close-up of the stern. The crane was another %#$@ to build! All the framing had to be built up piece by piece. You might have noticed the rows of slotted racks around the insides of the 40mm gun tubs. These are ammo racks that hold the magazines for the 40mm guns. Here is the stern. I really don't like that ladder up the hull. It's not professional at all. That whole area looks tacky, plus, I need white letters, not black I have to do something about that - but not till later! OK, so that's what it looks like now. Thanks for looking! Larry
    3 points
  11. Gisbod

    1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat

    Evening all, I think I’m calling the cockpit done. Not my best effort, but looks ok. I’m not really adding a great deal in terms of detailing, I haven’t quite got the enthusiasm somehow. The Airscale set is great as are the ‘wrong’ seat belts. They really lift it a notch. I’m looking forward to seeing what the master builders do with this kit though - it has great potential. Note the masked areas on the mating surfaces. Thanks Guy
    3 points
  12. Or how I saved the first model I've built in 20 years from the trash bin. For the whole sordid story see the WIP build HERE
    2 points
  13. Here are the final set of shots taken outside on a cloudy day. Glad this one is over - largely my own fault having dropped it and that fact that Trumpeter and the UK distributor off now spares parts service whatsoever (I tried several times with both and received no response). The kit had the very extensive Eduard series of sets, Aires cockpit, exhaust and wheel bays, Avionix cockpit etc There are a number of mistakes - small tanks, early exhaust when it should be the later one. I am sure there are a bunch more. I also noticed post photographing that I have knocked the fuse extenders so that are not all equally spread. I was pleased with the effect of reducing the pin cushion divots that Trumpeter wanted to pass as rivets.
    2 points
  14. Been a while since my last post but things have gone on apace. The canopy has been masked up and glued into place and I even remembered to stick the flare pistol in the roof before I closed it all up! After spraying the outside of the canopy cockpit green and a good wash down of the whole model with good old soap and water, it was time for the black! I decided to prime with Vallejos Polyurathane black primer and I have to say it covers beautifully. The down side is that it does leave a bit of an odour around but then I was covering an awful lot of plane. Also tip dry and clogging are real problems. I started off thinning it with Vallejos airbrush thinner and that wasn't a good idea. It formed a stringy type deposit in the airbrush and necessitated a quick strip down and clean. After a bit of research I tried spraying it straight from the bottle and the problem disappeared. Tip dry was still rife though but, as I say, the final coat was lovely. So, the next thing was to lighten it up a bit as per Doogs Models method of "Black Basing". I really like this technique. I used a mid grey thinned down at least 3:1 thinner to paint and sprayed a random pattern of dots and vertical lines. Then you start to cover it with a very dilute black layer. I diluted it 9:1 Tamiya Flat Black. You have to go slowly and keep checking and the whole point is that you don't cover evenly. This gives a tonal variation that, on the black models, is brilliant. You also have to stop short of what you think is the correct amount of cover. It may look stark to begin with but gloss coats, decals, weathering and top coats will all soften it down. If it really does remain too harsh, then filters or another application of dilute black will fix it. I also used the same dilution but with Tamiya NATO Black to increase the tonality a little more I covered with a gloss layer then on with the decals. I normally like to paint the markings as it allows better weathering but I wasn't weathering this one too much as it's new owner wanted the starkness of the black and, since the fuselage is very smooth so there are no panel/rivet lines to allow for, I used the excellent decals that Airfix do. Only problem was that, although the 2015 revision of the kit contains all the parts for the NFII, it doesn't contain the decal. It's a completely new sheet. A quick call to Airfix and they thankfully still had stocks of the older sheet. All the warning signs, trestle points etc are in red on the NFII as black would't have worked for obvious reasons. You can see the subtle effect of the black basing on the starboard wing hopefully.
    2 points
  15. Im on my second engine , and mines not been too bad either , i just trimmed the flash and seams off the inner pushrod ring , and cylinder rings and it fits good.
    2 points
  16. spacewolf

    Fokker DR 1

    I have seen people do this in video's.. but never tried this myself so with some anxiety I started in.. first, cut off the barrel leaving a 1/16 bit to mount the rear end of the cooling jacket to. Adding the side bits The port side detail needs to be built up as it is too thin.. just a strip of sheet added to give the right thickness.. The cooling jacket was carefully rolled, the muzzle was nipped off, drilled out and a bit of salvaged copper wire was flat rolled, cut to length and the drilled out muzzle glued on. I didn't drill into the rear of the muzzle too deep, just deep enough to allow for a firm mount on the copper wire. Not too bad for a first try....
    2 points
  17. Thanks guys! I've managed, after 3 attempts to get a good engine mold and now I've begun casting my engines and props for the ATR. I think I can now return to normal model building on this project for a while...maybe?
    2 points
  18. A little progress, I haven't been working on the Mossie lately, have been tied up with my Harrier giant. I am lucky enough that I work with an engineer who was kind enough to make up some 3D files for me for the new Mosquito's exhaust stubs, I made a single stub in 1:6 scale out of hi-density urethane foam and the engineer used it as a basis to create the 3D files. I sent the files to Steve at "MODEL MONKEY" and it was printed and at my door step in 4 days !!! $8.00 U.S. a pair plus shipping.
    2 points
  19. ok, a little experimenting was in order, haha! If we jump to the end, well then I would have to say I'm on the right track but very wary of doing stars and bars and multiple colors that's for sure. I took a practice piece and laid down Citadel chaos black primer, Duplicolor acid etching primer(good for aluminum), MCA Primer (matches the paint I use), and just straight olive drab paint(bottom one in pic). I sanded the aluminum foil with 400 grit paper. I did that based on directions for the acid etching primer. At this stage if 400 grit works I can experiment with the XX and XXX steel wool. Then on the left half of the test piece I burnished the aluminum down real well to see if smoothing out the foil affected the grip sanding offered the paint. I left the top 2 alone and didn't spray any color coat over them. I sprayed my gloss black over the acid etching primer, the gray primer, and the chaos black primer (2nd from bottom). As it turned out burnishing didn't matter so at least I know I can do this before I spray the adhesive on (which is normal so I don't have to change the process). I just need to figure out how to make sure the paint is going to stick? Gazzas I tried the trim trick but no matter what I did I left cuts in the foil. I was able to burnish them out so it looked ok in the end but alas, nothing fixed my overall problem with paint sticking to foil. Another side note, I'm using the dull side of the foil in all these trials. A bit depressing for sure. Only the straight Citadel primer stuck. Scratching my head on this one. At the very least I can put the lettering and the USAF on the model. So here is how that turned out -
    2 points
  20. Here's post #2 of this set: A lot of people have asked me what I'm going to do with this ship when I finish it? Truthfully, I have no idea! I definitely am going to enclose it in a protective case to keep the dust off, but other than that, I haven't decided. I'm thinking of possibly displaying it for a while and them possibly donating it to the Veterans Home here in Grand Rapids. Who knows - that's a long ways down the road. The light gray deck is in place just so you can see where turret #2 is located. Nothing has been done to this part - it's just as it came out of the box. Aside from all the brass parts, the entire ship was this color. Everything except the decking (which is real wood, by the way) has to be painted either Haze Grey or Deck Blue. Here's a closer look at the foredeck and anchor chains Adding the 6 chain stops was a real pain in the you know what! The little red things with white handwheels are high pressure fire suppression water valves. As I said before, the deck railing has not been added, nor has the 20mm AA guns and flagstaff at the prow. This is a close-up view of the foredeck just behind the anchor chains, showing the various detail on the main deck. First are the windless and brake controls, then the (2) 20mm Oerlikon anti-aircraft guns, various hatches and vents, and then the (2) quad 40mm Bofors gun positions, along with their respective gun directors. The storage boxes are ammunition lockers for the respective guns, and the torpedo shaped things behind the 40mm gun tubs are the (2) paravanes This is a shot of turret #1. There is a structure that is located between turrets #1 and 2 on the main deck that has not been added yet. It won't be added until Deck #1 is glued in place. I glued fender washers under the deck and magnets inside the turrets to hold them into place. That way they can be rotated and removed if necessary. The gun barrels are brass, believe it or not. Yeah, I know, why would you pay for brass gun barrels and then paint over them. I'm sure all of you know why!!! This shot shows the back side of the breakwater and the equipment located there. Also, note the helmets for the gun crew and the loudspeakers mounted on the rear of the 40mm gun tubs. A lot of this detail was added by me and did not come with the kit. I have a set of plans for this ship that are 9 feet long that shows all this extra detail. Here is turret #2. It has a 40mm gun position on top of it where turret #1 does not. You can see why!! Also note the 20mm AA guns on either side of the ship. The small diagonal tubes mounted on the front of the splinter shield are spare gun barrels. Cooling tubes for hot expended gun barrels are located inside the splinter shield, as are more crew helmets. The two valves just aft of the splinter shield are refueling ports for when the ship is refueled at sea. all this is extra detail that does not come with the detail kits. Overall view of the starboard side of the fore main gun battery This is the part I'll be working on next. There is a ton of brass detail that gets added to the sides, along with wooden decking similar to the main deck. I also plan to grind off some of the doorways and show them open with brass doors. The (4) rectangular protrusions along the sides are where the 5" gun mounts are located. There are 10 of them on this deck and the one above. This is just astern of Deck #1 and the location of turret#3. There's a lot of detail around here including 20mm and 40mm gun positions, winches, hatches, vents, hose reels, and fire suppression equipment. The long, grey device on the side of the ship swings out and ladders lower to dock small boats that come alongside. OK, this is another 10 photos. There are 6 more which I will post in the next one - #3
    2 points
  21. hello and thank you so much for such positive words. I'm really glad that that different approach gets a touch on some of you ! i did some more general views and started a bit of experimenting on how i'll varnish that with an adequate ratio satin to gloss. next progress will be after summer holidays ! bye Fanch
    2 points
  22. Exactly. The problem isn't CGI, it's how it's being used. An example of what can be done when the folks involved know something about flight physics:
    2 points
  23. Hi guys, I‘ve started with some assembly and initial layers of detail. The following photos are the left side of the nose landing gear well. This detail is primarily the hydraulic tubing, and insulated environmental system tubing. As a proof of concept idea I chose to try to print sections of tubing. The aft most lines are laterally offset and have connectors that needed to be rendered. Doubting my ability to bend and fashion identical parallel line by hand as well as keeping future production in mind a printing attempt was justified. So the tube sections were modeled in CAD with portions tubing clamps at each end and sent off to my Photon. I did print three copies of each section, as it turned out, all printed successfully but one of the three was perfect. The remainder of the tubing was fashioned from lead wire. Printed fittings and CNC milled tubing clamps were placed on the side wall using a paper template made from a 2d drawing exported from my CAD software. Hours of studying photographs and tracing one line at a time, I managed to get all the pipes in what I think is the right place. That is to say, every tube end landed on a connection point, no loose ends. I know they are not 100% correct but, without a maintenance pub that shows a trace of each line....I’ve achieved a, let’s say, 98% accurate result. Here are a few more printed parts. I finally invested in a proper macro lens with a ring flash. I think the photos are much better...two problems though. 1. You can see every microscopic flaw, even though I build with layers of magnification from my cheaters down to 10x jewelers loop. ....and.... 2. I’m working on my f stops for depth of field. So far my shots are hand held, maybe a little less laziness on my part and I should use a tripod and focus merge multiple shots. Irregardess y’all ort git the gist of my progress. Thanks for checking in! Timmy!
    2 points
  24. Once the paint is dry, proceed to mask the top with a moldable adhesive. It was Patafix of the Uhu brand. It is an adhesive that leaves no residue on surfaces or traces of grease. And the result is the following: Greetings to all and I hope you like it. I am satisfied with the result since it is the first time that I carry out this type of masking.
    2 points
  25. Fantastic work! What a beast. I'd love one of these kits, but they're over $200 here in Australia (though I note that Metro Hobbies has them at $157 after a 25% discount). Kev
    1 point
  26. Latest completion is the Monogram 1/48 EA-6B Prowler. Used Quickboost seats and Flying Leatherneck "Jammin' Jarhead" decals. Otherwise OOB. Stay tuned, the Trumpeter 1/32 P-47N will be coming soon. Cheers, Jerry
    1 point
  27. spacewolf

    Fokker DR 1

    I was rather disappointed with the instructions.. very poor and unclear, obviously have been photo copied far too many times.. You get 2 Maxim and one Parabellum gun.... The photo etch is sweet... but VERY thin !... about half the thickness of other sets I have had.. The detail on the set is far better than the kit supplied set
    1 point
  28. Dylan

    F-102 NACA 1/48

    Here is my Revell F-102 in Naca markings. I used the wolfpack exhaust and quickboost pitot and seat for aftermarket. Fundekals provided the NACA markings and Caracal decals were for the rest. I would like to have seen more stencil data provided, as this airplane was covered in them. also there is a red arrow going from the intake to the rescue handle that is not included in the decals or the instructions. I am assuming it was added at a later time from when the decal sheet depicts. paint is GSI #73 mixed 2:1 with white. humbrol #69 is a perfect match for the yellow band on the tail and was used for touching up the areas that don't get covered by the decals. the Revell molds are really showing their age , it would be nice to have a new tool kit in 1/48 for the F-102. I am looking at you Meng.
    1 point
  29. mozart

    WnW Fokker E.1 (Early)

    Super work as ever Andy, the build looks to be going incredibly with well. It’s always good to have a change of era and/or subject type......I’m about to start my second-ever jet!! Looking forward to seeing more progress with the Fokker.
    1 point
  30. Wow! Some of the finest NMF paint work I've ever seen.
    1 point
  31. Buttoned up the fuselage last night with no problems, I wasn't really liking the stitching on the lower fuselage so I sanded it back followed by masking a strip and spraying with Mr Surfacer. When this had dried I added Archer resin stitching decals and under a coat of primer Much happier with the results compared to the kit supplied plastic insert. Regards. Andy
    1 point
  32. Pushing it away for a long time I finally got around to get the metal parts done for this. After trying different approaches, this is what I ended up with... Cover, fuel tank, ammo boxes and cowling in unpainted aluminium. After some trials and tests to find a way to achieve a decent metal surface, this is the procedure I ended up using: First a layer of Tamiya flat aluminium, then a coat of future. Pattern made with a sharpie silver pen and finally everything has been brought together with some AK True Metal Aluminium wax paint, applied very sparingly. The fuel tank with the two filling caps and some 'scratched' brackets for the mount. It may sound complicated, but it isn't. It ended up being 'a walk in the park' . Cheers: Kent
    1 point
  33. The plan is to launch the kit in Telford this year. Radu
    1 point
  34. A little more progress today, first up I completed the fuselage side frames ready for final cockpit assembly. Instrument board and fuel tank assembly also built up and painted as well. I also managed to complete the cockpit assembly today, did I mention I'm enjoying this one? Follwed by a quick test fit in to the starboard fuselage half Very happy with progress, will get the fuselage halves together and hopefully with no nasty steps in the final fit. Regards. Andy
    1 point
  35. These builds are imaginative, beautiful and stunning...and brave. I've just spent my whole lunch hour just looking at this thread. There is something surreal about the whole thing, the detail is simply incredible and convincing. On top of all that you have to decide on the correct intensity of the greys and blacks to convey the right impression of the real thing. Mind is blown. This is art on a different level! Thanks for this, it's a lot of fun watching the progress. Richard
    1 point
  36. we now have two airframes, i'm more working on Lou IV these days ! source pics: the leading edge overlapping will be done with top wing's paintwork !
    1 point
  37. I skipped the trailer, but am inclined to give the movie a chance. Accuracy buffs for years have shredded the movie fly boys, I really liked it and have watched several times. If we relied on the movie industry for accuracy we would not watch very many movies of any kind. There are “accuracy buffs”.that criticize the various inconsistencies in Star Wars which is complete fiction to begin with. Now I tried a recent movie about the Tokyo Raid on Amazon or Showtime last weekend and the B-25 mockups were so bad, I turned it off after 5 minutes. But I will give Midway a shot until proven to be just a bad movie. I may not go to see it in the Theater as I usually don’t go see war flicks unless my family are out of town and I am on my own. I went to Dunkirk. I saw Saving Private Ryan in the theater also which was amazing. Somebody above commented that this is the same director that did “The Day After Tomorrow..”. I happened to really like that movie and have seen it more than once as it is often on the likes of TBS, so the director is not inherently a negative to me. I have one must see movie this year Ford vs Ferrari(about the Ford LeMan win and the GT-40 program). Already told my wife I am going to that one no matter what. The only thing stopping me from seeing Ford vs. Ferrari will be my death or a stroke. Otherwise I will be there.
    1 point
  38. FINALLY finished with the cockpit (except for a matt coat and the control columns). Added seats from milliput, eduard photo etch for the general cockpit and 'corrected seats' as well as seat belts. I repainted the fuselage interior in a color i liked more, washed it and highlighted the frames. Now I need to add ammo boxes and belts and a little more before I can close it up. Will be a big day
    1 point
  39. MikeMaben

    Revelamiyastang ...

    Wow ! time flies, didn't realize how long it's been since I last posted but I'm getting close to the finish line. Ray , I tried a couple of different methods for the spinner stripes and finally came up with the following. I cut a plastic disc from .020" sheet and attached it to a Dremel cut off wheel shaft. Then smashed the disc inside (blue tac) the spinner (already painted red) and chucked that into my 18volt Black and Dekker drill. Using a C-clamp so I could adjust the trigger / speed , I found I could spin the thing verrry slowly , then just hand painted the blue stripes. Turned out OK so I'm finishing up the odds and ends which shouldn't be too much longer. In these pix, the stripes are white as an early experiment I tried brush painting Aim toothpaste (with a little white in it so I could see it better) so I could mask the stripes and spray them rather than hand brushing. Didn't like it so I switched to brush painting the blue instead.
    1 point
  40. Thanks for the support! I spent some time at the bench making molds and doing some test casts of the masters for the flap actuators, wheels, engines, props. etc... Some parts worked perfect others, as suspected will need a tweak or two...or five. So I may finally be ready to start putting the flap actuators on, the gear legs. As well, 2 (of 4) wheels are done and both props are ready, seen here with the master, (not being used on the model) borrowed from Revell's 1/72 CL-415 and a perfect fit to the ATR. The windows are filled with Micro Crystal clear in anticipation of priming the model for gloss white paint...a step I never thought I'd be doing! Thanks for looking
    1 point
  41. Gisbod

    1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat

    Thanks Ryan and Wingman I’ve made a start this morning and it’s going together surprisingly quickly. I’m getting as much sticking together done on the interior as I can before paint. As mentioned before, the plastic is fairly soft, the cockpit floor seems a teeny bit warped - but should squeeze into shape ok. I’ve done a test fit of the fuselage halves and it goes together - with the internals fitted - with some pressure. I’ll have to keep an eye on that as I progress. Not quite a snap build. That said, it’s a fun build already - it’s a lovely scale to work with ie it’s not too fiddly. Here are some progress pictures. A few sink holes to fill: The first part of the Airscale set fitted (kit detail sanded off) I’ll need to add some kind of seat cushion to replace the kit one moulded with straps. Thanks for looking, Guy
    1 point
  42. spacewolf

    Fokker DR 1

    Now for those pesky panels under the wing... after much searching finally came upon a period pic that shows them somewhat clearly.. the snow reflected enough light the camera/ film was able to pick up the detail... To be honest even modern pics rarely pick out this on reproduction aircraft but I finally found some good shots... Inspection panels from sheet aluminum for the control pullies. And the twist fasteners for them.. this shot was taken from a discussion on the Aerodrome forum. So now to reproduce the detail.. a scribed circles made from a sharpened brass tube nobs made from bits of scrap Hinge made from stretched sprue
    1 point
  43. spacewolf

    Fokker DR 1

    That was so much fun and went so quickly I moved on to the cowling. It is not bad but the cooling and prop shaft holes are wrong, the raised section where the cowl meets the flat face is only shown as a engraved line... so out with the trusty books.. gotta fix this ! Plugs were cut from sheet and glued in.. The openings carefully plotted and drilled out.. one of my plugs popped out and had to be redone... The outer cowl was cut from thin sheet and glued on, then sanded flush with the curve ... Primered and with light divots from a pin vise and small drill to represent the rivets.... A bit more work to do before I'm fully happy with it but really pleased with how it's coming along thus far ! Please feel free to chime in ... any advice or insights to the build are welcome !!
    1 point
  44. spacewolf

    Fokker DR 1

    Ok gang... it's update time !! Looking over the kit and test fitting... we have work to do. Initial impressions ?... on par with the 1/28 Revell kit in some area's.. better in some things. Fit is pretty good, no flash and minor seam lines... an honest builders kit. You could slap this together and it'll look like a DR 1... or you can go nuts on it and make it a stunner with some aftermarket and scratch work. I'm going for improved but not to the stunning standard Sandbagger is doing with his Fokkers !! The engine is an example of the issues with the kit.. it's not the Oberursel but rather the Clerget... this along with a few other things I've noted leads me to the conclusion they copied a reproduction aircraft rather than doing the research to get it right. I've ordered the replacement engine but figgured I'd put together the kit engine just to see how it goes together. There is hardly any issues with the fit of the cylinders and almost no clean up needed.. I just brushed a bit of thin cement over the seam and it blended things very well. The cylinder heads are separate, well detailed and go in without problems. The push rods are nicely detailed and they give you 1 extra for each set.. needed in my case as I nipped off the bottom bit thinking it was not part of the pushrod... The parts go together rather quickly and with a bit of care you get a very nice engine.. The spark plugs fit into openings molded into the side of the cylinders and look very good to my eye.. A splash of Vallejo chrome silver... A wash of black and some white for the spark plugs and one has a very nice engine. No extra detailing, straight OOB. With some work and TLC this would be a jewel for any scratch build using this engine.
    1 point
  45. spacewolf

    Fokker DR 1

    First thing I decided to do was jump into painting woodgrain.. I've seem peoples work, read about how to do it so with half a clue I sprayed a few parts with deck tan.. I had gotten oils for another project so I broke out the Burnt Umber and a stiff brush... This was so easy it almost scared me... So with things off to this kind of start I'm feeling good about the build so far... tune in next week to see what happens from here...
    1 point
  46. The only real disadvantage to the 9v setup VS the 4 AA setup is run time. Per MSM, the run time of the lighting animation is shorter than 4 AA setup. However, I believe because of the low overall draw of the LEDs, that even with a 9v setup the animation time will still be long enough for displays and contests, since I wont have it on all the time. First thing I did over the long weekend was to glue the rear empennage halves to their respective fuselage halves, VS trying to glue the forward fuselage together and then glue the rear empennage section of the fuse to it. I also noticed at the same time that after I glued on the speed brake doors, they were a bit sunken in, and about 1/2mm too deep, so while I was at it, I used some PPP (Perfect Plastic Putty) to fill the speed brakes, which I will later re-scribe after sanding: Next, after receiving the 9v battery case, I started back in on my experiments on powering the system. I think the 9v is the solution I've been looking for! It has the right size I need, and after full power tests, I can confirm how long the battery will last with all the LEDs powered. First things first, I know for sure, no matter the actual power source, I will need access to all this from the outside. A hatch had to be created to allow access to replace the 9v battery, and the obvious choice was the MLG doors. After initial dry fit trials, I found the MLG door fit to be excellent actually, so I proceeded with using them as the new hatch for the system. The MLG bay, with two bulkheads around it fit so nice, that I decided to keep the internal bulkheads so that the hatch will stay more aligned in the end. The fit of the MLG bay and bulkheads is really nice: After more dry fit trials, I glued all 5 of the MLG door parts together to make a single solid part, reinforced with styrene strips: After once again going through extensive dry-fit sessions, I found the fit of the hatch after assembly also really good, save a bit of a gap at the back of the hatch that I will fill later with styrene and filler: After removing the hatch and disassembling the unit once again, I made some modifications to the hatch; cutting the tab off the front, and cutting down the tab in the rear, along with its corresponding hole in the fuselage, so the rear was a snug fit that slides in and holds solidly, and the front just lays down lightly on the front edge (later to be held on with magnets): You can see here the hatch seated with its rear tab in place and front tab that will be cut off that normally fits into the slot below it: Here you can get an idea of how the hatch will lift off after the front tab was cut off, although in the final config I will have to push down the trailing edge first to get it to catch, then lower the front onto the magnets: When I get the internal bulkheads configured like I need them, I will cut out the center section of the MLG floor, keeping the outer edges so the hatch will have a place to set on once finished, yet I will still be able to remove the battery. I did some gluing and cutting of the internal bulkheads yesterday, and it appears the size is about right for removal and placement of the battery, I will do more testing tonight on the power supply itself, now that I have it wired up, and ready to plug into the circuit board. Now I just have to find out what kind of switch I want to use to proceed with the full electrical tests. More pics later! Cheers
    1 point
  47. Well the lower wings are finished with Bobs eyelets attached, now for the upper wings, I'm happy with my CDL it looks great in real life the photos dont show the subtle tones Rant time.......i know it must be just me but i cant get Vallejo model air paints to work, look at the state on the pre shading on the top wings, I've tried different pressures different thinner ratios. i just cant get it to spray like tamiya or mission model paints, so I'm gonna bin the stuff ( although there model colour range brush paints perfectly) Ive seen other threads where people have made jigs to hold the wings, but i just dont think its necessary, just follow the WnW instructions all fits are perfect so far, now for the tricky rigging Thanks for the comments
    1 point
  48. I actually enjoy rigging, I've built WnW Fe2 and gotha. I'm always suprised when modellers say they are 'scared' of the rigging, just buy a kit look at tutorials, its actually easy when you take your time Did some woodwork on the trolley over the weekend, just for practice, I'll hairspray and paint Battleship grey, i actually dont intend to use the trolley, i plan to do infligth version on a U shaped acrylic stand I'm not very happy with the oils on the top of the trolley, i got the direction of 'grain' wrong The fuselage is actually not that big its the wingspan thats the spacer killer, but hey you know that already
    1 point
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