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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/25/2019 in all areas

  1. Modifications and additions · Scratchbuilt instrument panel (then copied in resin) · Modified kit wheels by combining kit hubs with Barracuda cast slotted tyres. · Scratchbuilt Undercarriage legs from brass and plastic (main and tail) · Added brake lines (Scratchbuilt from copper wire) · Modified profile of upper forward fuselage and chin to better match references. · Scratchbuilt rear view mirror · Added RB productions seatbelts · Modified seat with extra panelling · Modified the lower windscreen area to correctly depict the bottom edge behind a panel · Cut out vac formed bullet proof flat panel and replaced it with thick Clear sheet. · Added spark plug wiring from copper wire · Opened up small circular panel behind cockpit to depict missing cover of fuselage fuel tank, along with Scratchbuilt fuel filler cap. · Scratchbuilt waste gate vent on left side of fuselage under forward cockpit. · Scratchbuilt cowl flaps. · Scratchbuilt Pitot tube from brass. Finish and markings All markings masked and sprayed including “Hep Cat” nose art. Small stencil data from the Red Roo decal sheet. SMS Foliage green and white used.
    15 points
  2. Hi guys, The instrument cowl is done, and interesting to have the original part next to it for comparison. Hope it looks okay to you, because I'm rather new to 1/32 scale, and not so sure whether it's enough detail or did I just stop adding before I go crazy...lol Cheers
    12 points
  3. Hi! I spent the past three days working on the fuselage to reach this level of finishing after several hours of primer spraying and sanding. Working on a short run kit is very very demanding but in the end the satisfaction is there. I still have some minor imperfections to correct but nothing difficult. I will scribe the panel lines on the final coat of primer to get the same depth as the aft part of the fuselage otherwise we may have seen the difference. A lot of work is still needed on this model but I would say that the most challenging one is behind now. See you soon for updates Cheers Eric
    8 points
  4. Model Trumpeter P-40F Warhawk 1:32 scale, Made straight from the box, the model is very easy to build. In terms of the compatibility of this model with the P-40F, unfortunately, I can't comment because I have no knowledge about aircraft from IIWW times. The person who ordered this model would like it to be heavily exploited, I hope that the effect has been achieved.
    7 points
  5. spook

    Mig-21 F13 trumpeter 1/32

    Hi alal, Here my last built : the Trumpeter Mig-21 F13 in Hungarian colours. I Used Pavla resin cockpit, Master pitot tub, HAD covers and decals. Hope you like it.
    7 points
  6. Just to have an idea of the work in progress for correcting the issues
    6 points
  7. Thanks Misha! My garden is a nice place indeed - I love the view. I have scribed the first groove lines on the gearbox housing and could not help myself but to cut the gearbox oil cooler compartment open. Not sure this is a good idea, but there is no way back now. Let's see...
    6 points
  8. This is what it looks like at the moment.
    5 points
  9. Modifications and additions: Jet pipe and exhaust turbine face scratch built. Seat cushions and belts scratch built Height of tail increased by approx 2mm Rocket rails scratch built Rivet detail added to circumference of belly tank Added brake lines and actuator rods to undercarriage All antenna replaced with wire Cockpit access step scratch built Scratch built Pitot tube Scratch built Nav lights. Airscale decals used for cockpit instruments. Markings and finish: MRP Extra dark Sea Grey and Sky. Kit stencil data decals Small squadron crest decal custom made All other markings masked and sprayed
    4 points
  10. red baron

    KI 61 hasegawa

    my last built , enjoy ::
    4 points
  11. No one is trying to "prove you wrong". This is nothing personal. It is a historic truth as evidenced by countless photos. There is absolutely no evidence that the 262 was "taped". Tape is present is a few places, most notably where the tail unit meets the fuselage (usually depicted as a raised "cranked strip" on models) but the majority of panel joints on the rest of the airframe are not taped, not even puttied. While it is possible to argue that the rivets may not be entirely accurate on scale models because they were flush and they should be smaller than usually depicted on models, it is wrong to state that panel lines were obliterated. All photos show clearly that the panel lines remained visible all the way through production. As I said before, when researching the Revell 262 we had access to 5 separate airframes and a mountain of orIginal data, so I am speaking from first-hand experience. Radu
    4 points
  12. my last built , enjoy :
    3 points
  13. Thanks, I'll keep that in mind A quick test fit of the updated parts was very pleasing that they fitted nicely Cheers
    3 points
  14. Hello again. My "Hopefully this weekend I'll get more bench time" always seems to turn into 3 weeks. As a bit of a snap decision I decided to break out my riveter. I've been wanting to try riveting an aircraft for a while and thought the Revell P-51 was a good test bed since it was inexpensive and the puttied wings would make it an easier project. It wasn't as hard as I expected it to be, but my work isn't to the level of a lot of builds I've seen on here. I'll cut myself some slack for a beginners effort though. Another rookie mistake was not running some thin wash over the rivets before taking these pictures so those of us not from krypton could see them. Next up some seem filling on the wings and some serious work on the radiator inlet. Thanks for looking. Jeff
    3 points
  15. I'm sure the Revell 262 single seater will be a great kit, just like the two seater. As mentioned before, those of us in the US may never see it at a reasonable price over here though. I've got three Trumpeter single seaters and a two seater and they're great kits, and reasonably priced for what you get. I don't mind the rivets at all.
    3 points
  16. Hi guys Well it's been nearly a month now since my last post what with family staying and this and that etc etc( you know the drill...getting in the way of modelling!)...but finally I'm now back at dealing with this B17G! ...and it was time to tackle the complicated ball turret hanging system!.......After looking at loads of confusing photos of the task at hand I decided that the only way to replicate it was to try and break it down into small stages.....wasn't going to be easy ...but then that's the challenge I guess! So I started with the frame work and the bits and bobs at the bottom that fits onto the turning mechanism above the ball turret...here's a few photos...... I was about to attach the upright tube ( plastic flag stick that luckily was the correct scale!) when I noticed that I would have to adjust the walkway that goes around the turret as it was too large and I would never be able to continue with the hanging structure!.....annoying as I had to take of the glued floor carefully off and then re shape it and then replace it and make good!...any way after that problem was solved I had the next problem of repeatedly placing the top section of the fuselage.... as a dry run fit ....to see if the tube aligned up correctly with the ceiling connection!....that I have to say took some time and patience!...of course in the process I knocked of the radio ops seat and some radio stacks from the radio room floor!...I have left them off for the time being whilst I deal with this nightmare! Once that was all sorted I gave this section some paint after first placing some cables and wiring on....here are some photos...... Now......I could have left it there!.......but I think you know me by now The B17G had a system for carrying extra ammunition that fed automatically into the ball turret....after looking at photos I decided to at least have a go at it and if it was too complicated then I could just not bother with them. Basically it was two ammunition cans suspended above the ball and bolted to the frame work.Being two cans they of course had to be symmetrical...and that is something I find difficult to do...especially the round feeds that were like S- shaped channels! The rounds were made by cutting small gauge wire to size (at least 50!!) and the glued in between 2 pieces of the S-shaped feeds.....some of the rounds could be seen through inspection ports....hence bothering with making the rounds! Any way here are the pretty rough looking examples of the ammunition cans and feed chutes....will look better in situ and with paint on....I hope! It was time to attach the ammo cans to the hanging structure....... The next task was nearly impossible to do and that was to make the lower supports for the cans.....it took ages but got there in the end!.......all I had to do now was to paint it all..... OK So that is as far as I have got so far. I still have to make a couple of ammunition belts and the oxygen tank for the turret and then I can think of closing the two halves in preparation for the external detail! I have to say although challenging this part of the build was ......I thoroughly enjoyed myself! Till the next post....take care guys! Fozzy
    3 points
  17. Personally, wing panel lines are insignificant compared to the windscreen and cowl differences.
    3 points
  18. you sure? the oilcanning effect is a result of the stresses in the metal due to rivetting. With a thin metal skin it cannot be avoided. not to be confused with the stresses while the aircraft is in flight where the dihedral increases due to aerodynamic forces and the resulting "creases" in the wingskins. The fuselage while on the ground sags because of the weight. I had the pleasure to see Lancaster NX611 yesterday and there is oilcanning everywhere. Also a wish came true when I sat in the pilot seat. Great inspiration for building the new kits. Cees
    3 points
  19. After night of rest I took again on the general lines and I discovered that there is an issue on the shape of the air duct. It is too flat as shown compare to the pics of the real thing. So, more filling sessions to come ......
    3 points
  20. Hello again everyone. I have painted on my Stuka the two green colors of the camouflage. later I will paint the brown tone but it will take more work as it has to be masked with curved lines.
    3 points
  21. Thanks guys for your comments, I really appreciate them... Cockpoop (Continued) Now that i have all the main Cockpit components done in their basic forms and happy with general fit, for now... It's time to finish installing the right-side cockpit wall fabric and remove the Cockpit Inner-wall liner to detail and prepare it for molding. I will let the photos continue the story... NOTE: I was never happy with this first attempt at the left-side Canopy to fuselage connection point ( you can see I used Blu-Tak to fill the gaps) ... so I have decided to re-visit this area - after I finish the other side fabric installation. This is how it should be.... Time to Crow-Bar `my wall base inner-liner part, out of the fuselage ... My previous explanation of using water-based paper-glue to build up and fix this part in place as preparations in this area - for later removal, ( which is now) ..... is about to pay dividends or total disaster! Wadda - Ya - Know? .... My wall liner part popped out, without too much fuss at all! ... a bit of sticky residue to clean up but being water based paper-glue ... easy-peazy!... Any other glue used during earlier preparations - would have been a disaster for sure! Yes, it has a bit of colour bleed-through, in the material but that is a chemical reaction to the Blue-Tak sticky base ( compare it to the freshly made right - side cockpit) ... but the Quilted textures on the inside walls is still good to go, for copying - and it also needs a bit of tidying up around the edges and all, but it's not that much work... Oh Yes!... this new inner-wall part feels pretty solid in my hands - though it's not thick.. the T-section formers give it that rigidity I need. Hmm, Not bad for my first attempt - me thinks ! Pip
    3 points
  22. Let's hope it won't lead to "this will only be finished in ten years" road.. we'll see. I have 3D printed a scribing template for the forward avionic bay hatches which also serves as positioning template for the tie down eye recesses. Panel scribed and tie down eye recess in place. After this, it was time to enjoy a Jupiler from the tap and to get some inspiration from the very old Landing Zone Publications book and to think about whether or not to open the avionic bays. Seems that I am getting old - I bought this book back in 2003 when I was 18 years old...
    3 points
  23. ... is that before long you have a 1/32 scale Ki-98! A friend and I have designed this from scratch with the hope of making it into a full kit. No plans to sell it but just to see if we can do it. The tail booms are printing right now, and then the detail stuff can start getting developed once we know the airframe part breakdown is good. Guys, words can’t describe how excited I am to have this plane in large scale!
    2 points
  24. REALLY looking forward to this one!
    2 points
  25. I found another photo of Yellow 8 at Ansbach, this time in color. Even though it is not very sharp, the color of the fork appears to be RLM 02 in this shot. So maybe it only looked dark in the b/w photo as it was in the shadow underneath the fuselage. (Source:criticalpast.com)
    2 points
  26. Well put ! WNW’s oil canning is potentially a real game changer for metal skinned a/c.
    2 points
  27. Please do a quick Google Images and look carefully at the photos. That "oil canning" effect can actually be considered a "standard feature" on the Lancaster, it is so visible in so many photos. Radu
    2 points
  28. So twelve days of procrastination and I have finally started work on the fuel filler ports. The tape template was removed from the wing and placed onto a piece of 0.50mm styrene sheet. I then pinpointed the panel corners, centre of the open fuel cell doors and other detail using a needle point scribe. The template was removed and the dots joined to make the panel outline, with details relief brought out using a 0.5mm mechanical pencil. This way, I still had the intact template if I made an error: I test drilled the other spare wing piece to get the right speed and drill size to chain drill the panel I needed removed with my faux Dremel. Happy with my choice,I drilled out the actual piece, removing the waste with sprue cutters: I then carefully taped the borders of the panel and using a flat file, sand stick and a lot of patience, I remove material to the tape edge: Until I was left with this result: The replacement 0.50mm panel was edged with 1.5 x 1.5 strip to provide a good anchor the the plastic around the opening. Some test fits show the work has paid off and I am close.I will impart a slight curvature in the new styrene to match the wing shape and fix the smaller rear end first, allowing it to set up before moving forward to complete installation. Regards
    2 points
  29. LSP_K2

    Dragon Bf 109E-4B

    The engine assembly. So far, fit of these pieces has been quite excellent.
    2 points
  30. Hi fellows modelers, I reached an important step in my build today. I sprayed a first coat of primer on the underside of the fuselage to highlight the defaults following an long phase of several adjustments. It is not perfect yet but I am happy of this first result. It could had been worse.
    2 points
  31. The cameras are finished and ready to be installed
    2 points
  32. Hi all, I thought you might like to see my 18th 1:32 scale build - the German Fokker D.VII fighter. The major airframe components are 3D printed from the ‘Shapeways’ web site. The airframe structural components were designed by ‘Aviattic’ and engine parts by ‘Bob Monroe’. Other components for the model were ‘donated’ from the ‘Wingnut Wing’ kit of the Fokker D.VII (OAW built) (Kit No: 32030). This model, with associated figures, will eventually be part of a dual Fokker D.VII display. I know I don't often reply to your generous comments, but rest assured they are very much appreciated, Mike The basic list of modifications and additions to the model are as follows: ‘Taurus Models’ engine intake manifold lock rings (3211), ‘Taurus Models’ engine fuel priming cups (3219), ‘Taurus Models’ engine complete timing gear - conical valve springs (3209), ‘Eduard’ Swordfish hinge and panel set (32204), ‘RB Productions’ British wire terminals (RB-P32013). Spark plugs. Cylinder fuel primers. Valve springs. Ignition lead support tubes. Gun synchronization mechanism. Ignition leads. Oil reservoir sight glass. Hydraulic pipes. Intake manifold lock rings. Sump oil tube. ‘Flugzeugwerke’ (Bob Monroe) (printed by ‘Shapeways’) Mercedes D.III Oil Pump, Mercedes D.IIIa Cylinders (hollow), Mercedes D.IIIa Crankcase and engine block, German Aircraft Magnetos, Mercedes Cylinder clamps, ‘Aviattic’ (printed by ‘Shapeways’) Rear fuselage frame. Tail plane. Rudder. Elevator. Ailerons. Fin. Upper wing (3 sections) (scratch bracing tapes, leading edge ‘saw tooth’ fairings). Lower wing (two sections) (scratch bracing tapes, leading edge ‘saw tooth’ fairings). Tail skid (with scratch made suspension cables and springs). Wings leading edge ‘stacking pads’. Rear fuselage decking panel. Cockpit padded surround. ‘Aviattic’ Fokker seat. Undercarriage assembly – scratch built including brass struts. Fuel, oil and coolant pipes, Engine controls – throttle, magneto, alternator, spark advance, hand throttle. ‘REXx exhaust. ‘Proper Plane’ Heine propeller (wood). ‘GasPatch’ Spandau machine guns. Gun installations. Cockpit control cables – rudder, ailerons and elevator. Cockpit cross bracing lines. Gun firing cables. Gun synchronization mechanism. Engine controls. Instrument leads/cables. Fuel pressure pump pipe. Seat harness. Rigging points. External flight control lines. ‘Steve Robson’ handmade wheels and tyres. Photo-etch radiator. Radiator shutter and control cable/pulley. All internal cross bracing cables. Aileron control cables with associated pulleys. As usual I've created a downloadable build log in Adobe PDF format, for those who might want to refer to it for reference or build details. It contains full step by step descriptions of the model build, its modifications/changes and is also supported with illustrations and photographs. If viewed in Adobe Reader, each build log has book marked chapters/headings for easier navigation through the log. My model website has the gallery page, so to view any model, go to the gallery and select it. If it has a PDF build log, it will be available to download using the 'PDF' icon on that models photo's page. For any photograph, just click the photo to enlarge or reduce the viewing size. http://igavh2.xara.hosting
    1 point
  33. Guess i'm not 'most modellers' then
    1 point
  34. Probably very similar if not identical to the Toryu one.
    1 point
  35. but now the most important question: Which 3D-printer did You use ??? The prints look perfect
    1 point
  36. Yes it would!!! I dont even know what all in involved in a NOGS conversion other than the obvious stuff, turret, prop blades, dual weapons pylons and tip pylons, but not sure about any pods, or IRST type ball, or any cockpit screens or changes.
    1 point
  37. i have the very old series of "Flugzeug" magazines from the eighties. these had a multi part series discusing all of the nightfighter variants with all kinds a drawings if you really want i could scan you some copies. i used these extensively on my C build
    1 point
  38. Weathered to an amazing degree. It is amazing that the plane could still get airborne. What a great model. Tnarg
    1 point
  39. Awesome stuff Ben! Can't wait to se you tackle the head Craig
    1 point
  40. Despite what they've said, probably to help sales of the - 5, it's unimaginable that Airfix won't release the - 3.
    1 point
  41. Ah forgot about that! I have always wished someone would make a 32nd NOGS conversion for the KHM kit..............
    1 point
  42. At the end of the day price is relative. For me its expensive but if I was a Lanc fan, I'd be getting it. Will it's surface texture be the 'Dreadnought' that recessed panel lines was in the 90's? Interesting times.
    1 point
  43. Engine wired, i focused mainly on front because rest won't be visible without cutting cover. Now i must work on whats behind it, because of taken panel.
    1 point
  44. Fingers crossed the Lanc and the 0/400 could be at the Nationals, I’ll be picking up one of each. As far as cost, don’t really care. I don’t smoke or drink, golf, have a car restoration going on, have a boat, or any other vices or hobbies. Money well spent to me. Ryan
    1 point
  45. Hello, I've finally finished this one.... As in title - this is P-400 Airacobra "Airacutie" by Special Hobby , reboxed by Revell. Model isn't good, I'm sure that Kittyhawk one is much better but it was on sale so I bought it Basically it's OOB but there are seatbelts from Eduard and guns from brass pipes. Lady on wing is from Masterbox Pinup set. Whole model is painted with Mr.Hobby range and weathered with MIG,Tamiya and AMMO products. It has very shallow panel lines so wash didn't go well. I found a topic about Airacutie on this forum so I know that this particular P-400 had it's gear covers dismounted. After finishing I found that left cockpit door on real P-400 was permanently blocked. Another mistake is supposedly wrong cockpit color but I have no chance to correct it now. Anyway , hope you'll like it
    1 point
  46. Right to the plastic, because after I've added so much fine rivet and panel line detail, I don't want anything filling it like a primer. With enamels and lacquers I can do that, but it requires extensive surface prep and sanding, which sometimes is not enough as shown below. July 20/19 When I’m in the modeling zone, I am possessed, so another quick update on painting 3 days in a row. After finishing the bottom of the jet and getting a procedure and rhythm of what I should do, I got after the upper part of the model and low and behold, that bloody fuselage seam was worse up top! Back to the drawing board all over again. And this is why. Nothing really fits front to back… So after a few hours of careful sanding this evening and re-painting, it turned out pretty good if I do say so myself. I took a little heat earlier for painting a “plain black jet”, but I think this baby will look awesome with big red Soviet stars and bright red placards and other markings. I’ll just let the pics do the talking now…. With poor fitting gun doors, this area turned out great as well…. I still have a few small flaws, but I’ll let this dry for a few days before I try to repair them and get my sticky fingerprints on the nice shiny surface. Cheers, Chuck
    1 point
  47. Hi guys, and thanks for the warm welcome It's been a rough week at work, and not much time to work on the IIIEZ. I did however research the intake length a bit, and it's probably around 0.7mm too long, and should be a very easy fix. Dan, it's a combination of the kit photo-etch, once-off photo-etched buckles and a segmented self adhesive lead tape, which I cannot recall who or where I got it from. But it's been laying in my toolbox for more than a decade, as you can see by it's condition...lol. I made a mold of the seat, because I'm not going to build one again, and in case I need more. I have two of these Mirage IIIE kits, and I'm rather tempted to use the one as a "guinea pig" to consider other Mirage III variants. There's other things in this kit that also don't add up, like the camera lenses for the Mirage IIIRZ, are not correct, and now corrected, it can be used for the IIIR2Z as well, although the R2Z has a different ejection seat, RWR and intakes like the Mirage 50's. The tail fin has some issues too... the brake chute and rudder actuator are no good, but an easy fix. Then there's the rudder, which I'll have to investigate further. Cheers, John
    1 point
  48. AND SOME MORE Thanks for looking!!
    1 point
  49. Gazzas

    HGW Bf-109E-7/7B - Announced!

    Well, ain't that great! The Eduard 109's are crap, and I'm on the Never-buy-Trumpeter-again train. This opens options that weren't available before just this morning! Not sure how I feel about decals over frames of control surfaces. Some things just scream "break me/ruin me!" Sincerely, Unrepentant 109 Lover
    1 point
  50. A very minor work update. Painted a number of sub-assemblies before I head out of town for a couple days. Hoping this weekend I'll be able to seal up the fuselage. Thanks for looking. Jeff
    1 point
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