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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/23/2019 in all areas

  1. Hello everyone! As I’m new here I thought I should actually show off something I’m working on. My FW-190 isn’t ready to show yet, so here goes with the big, long term, build I’ve been doing. The Panther has always been my favourite tank mostly for how it looks, and I jumped at the chance to grab one of the large scale ones when Trumpeter released it. I wanted to portray a Battle of the Bulge era Panther so the kit needed some modifications to make it into a late version. This kit is a bit of a bugger to build. Trumpeter use an unnecessary amount of parts for each piece, the detailing is way off (and sometimes completely fictional!), flash everywhere, and the tolerances between some parts don’t seem to account for you actually painting them! In the end though fettling away is what I’d fun about this hobby so I got stuck in. Most of the lower hull is done. I’m still painting the shells, and there are a lot of them! The engine was a beauty to build, but is sadly mostly hidden away now. I hope you guys enjoy it!
    7 points
  2. seiran01

    Wingnut's Floating Gotha

    Wingnut's new Gotha UWD landed at my house today along with its (uglier...) land-based counterpart. For some reason this plane has always fascinated me, so everything else has been pushed aside to start this one. It's bloody gorgeous to see the plastic in person. Roughly the same length as the Gotha G.IV, with wingspan 2-3 inches shorter. The floats are massive, they are about as long as the span of the lower wing of an Albatros D.V! Day one: Cleanup of sprue stubs and mold separation seams, the floats and rear fuselage have been glued together and the three-piece lower wing has been joined. I'm hoping to make quick progress on this and bring the (completed?) build to the Nats somehow. Transport will be very difficult, but if I can figure out how to get it there, it'll be there.
    6 points
  3. red baron

    KI 61 hasegawa

    my last built , enjoy ::
    5 points
  4. Time flies. I cannot believe that I started this build in 2017. Anyways, the fuselage halves are finally complete. I have summarized below all the changes I made. One thing that took me a while to figure out was the correct position of the tail wheel. Built out of the box, it extends too far out of the fuselage. On 90%+ photos I have seen of wartime Fw 190 the tail wheel does not extend as much and therefore I have decided to reposition it. I finally decided to add a new pin-hole to have the required strength of the assembly. Also, on the Revell kit the fuselage near the tail wheel has a fictitious shape that I filled with CA and sanded smooth. But now everything is ready to add paint to the inside to then finally add the cockpit and close the fuselage halves.
    4 points
  5. Let's try to keep this one on the straight and narrow boys. Points can be made, and opinions stated, but let's leave the personal stuff elsewhere.
    4 points
  6. Model Trumpeter P-40F Warhawk 1:32 scale, Made straight from the box, the model is very easy to build. In terms of the compatibility of this model with the P-40F, unfortunately, I can't comment because I have no knowledge about aircraft from IIWW times. The person who ordered this model would like it to be heavily exploited, I hope that the effect has been achieved.
    3 points
  7. Fingers crossed the Lanc and the 0/400 could be at the Nationals, I’ll be picking up one of each. As far as cost, don’t really care. I don’t smoke or drink, golf, have a car restoration going on, have a boat, or any other vices or hobbies. Money well spent to me. Ryan
    3 points
  8. mark31

    Mclaren MP4-23 1/12

    more work done on this kit the raer suspension Now working on the spoiler at the end Thanks for stopping Mark
    3 points
  9. Available at the IPMS Nationals 2019 in Chattanooga Aug 6-10.
    3 points
  10. Thanks Gaz! Cheers mate! Ain't that the truth Chek! There was some rudimentary armour plates installed at various locations, but it wouldn't have done much against a zero's 20mm. Psychological at best! Thanks Terry, agreed about the cushion. I'll tidy that up a bit later on.... still got a while before that gets attached permanently! Always a pleasure Tom! I still don't know how you do what you do with the vacform kits, and where on earth are you going to put a Sunderland when you're done!? With all the discussion and research on the E/F correction, there's been very little time to lavish on my first love. She sits patiently on the bench waiting for me....... I did finally find the time to do some "contributary" work towards the project though! In order to begin "fitting out" the rear fuselage, I needed a lot of oxygen bottles and ammo cans, both big and small. You may recall that a while ago (probably two years) I made some masters of each and resin copies, but I was never really happy with them (air bubbles, warpage etc). Ever since I brought the photon, it had brought to light just how poor my CAD work was; I thought I'd made an amazing drawing, only to have half of it "disappear" when I brought it into the print setup page! Very disheartening I can tell you! Tim (Wunwinglow) had done his best to explain why my drawings sucked, but I still couldn't understand why they didn't work, which then kind of put me off trying to do detail parts for a while. Anyway, an enforced break is good for the mind so coming back into it, I was determined to get on top of this Rhino stuff. The light bulb moment came when in one line of a youtube tutorial the dude mentioned the command Select Open Surfaces or "SelOpenSrf." I'd seen all sorts of other tutorials about things like "manifold" and "non-manifold" edges, but for a simpleton like myself with no formal CAD training, none of this made any sense. Anyway I used the command and bang! Had it sorted in no time! Still got lots of little errors to work on, but I am getter better. Anyway, here's what you're all reading this for: Yeah it's not 100%, but at the size it is (4.5mm wide) even the photon will struggle with any crazy amount of surface detail, so I stuck to the basics. While I was at it, I also made the tall one for the radio room and bathtub guns (and these are good for the E/F too!) I then made some oxy bottles, and put them all on the bed ready to print. Just over 2 hours later..... I also compared these with the one I made a while ago (the new ones were made from factory drawings, as opposed to comparing pictures like I did last time) Probably just as well I redid them! As you can see, the oxy bottles aren't quite smooth, but at least they're round and aren't riddled with air bubbles! Given my recent success with understanding Rhino better and the results here, I'll continue to make the myriad of little fittings that need to go throughout the fuselage, especially the oxy panels and intercom boxes. I leave for a big trip to the US in a few days where I'll be visiting the MOF in Seattle, Desert Rat in Illinois and the cherry on top: A ride in EAA's Aluminium Overcast at Oshkosh!!!!! Cheers, Craig
    3 points
  11. thanks for your support in this one gentlemen! it loos like the most risky work has been done by now. in the mean time the cockpit is as good as ready. pilot and seat got a coat of flat varnish: and a set of resin wheels were delievered to my house. I noticed that the Revell wheels are much too square and have no thread on the tyres: Just finished the primer on the fuselage: surface detail is quite good, no seams visible anymore!
    3 points
  12. I bought this kit 2 years ago and have been picking away at it now and then. It's really picked up momentum in the last week going from probably never getting finished to, possibly finished in this lifetime to, possibly finished this year. I will add details (I've got a lot of walk around type pictures here) of the gear bays and (I hope) cast my own engines. I've got about 20 pictures but this is basically where the project sits now.
    2 points
  13. Modifications and additions: Jet pipe and exhaust turbine face scratch built. Seat cushions and belts scratch built Height of tail increased by approx 2mm Rocket rails scratch built Rivet detail added to circumference of belly tank Added brake lines and actuator rods to undercarriage All antenna replaced with wire Cockpit access step scratch built Scratch built Pitot tube Scratch built Nav lights. Airscale decals used for cockpit instruments. Markings and finish: MRP Extra dark Sea Grey and Sky. Kit stencil data decals Small squadron crest decal custom made All other markings masked and sprayed
    2 points
  14. I am busy with a 1/32 Tempest and at the painting stage. The only reliable local paint brand we have is Tamiya. I wanted to try their new lacquer paints for the project. Their colors are a bit of a mystery to me . Light grey is a good match for RLM 76 and Ocean Grey can pass for PRU Blue, so I had to mix the colors to approximate the RAF DFS colors. I had to test it on a model , so the 1/48 Hasegawa Spitfire was used. A very nice kit appart from the incorrect proportions of the fuselage. I used the measurements of the 1/32 Tamiya Spit, scaled it down and then added 3 mm to the rear fuselage and 1.5 mm to the nose with plastic card. Markings from Xtradecal for the serial number. The Squadron codes and roundels cut with Silhouette cutter. Subject 1 Sqn SAAF in Italy 1944. Enjoy Nick
    2 points
  15. I can. In fact, I can afford to get two of them if I wanted. Not sure what it proves. In any case, the Lanc will be a bargain compared to MFH's 1/12 scale car kits. Their Ferrari 250 TR sells for about £800 a pop.
    2 points
  16. I’m not in a majority? I can’t say and won’t fathom a guess what folks spend of their “disposable income” on the hobby. When I bought my first kit over $100.00 (Canadian) it took a couple of months of saving to get it but with two little girls, a poorly paid job, car loan, mortgage, and wife in university I probably shouldn’t even have been buying models at all! Now, I’m nearing 60, great paying job, wife equal to my pay, girls off with their own families, 4 cars all paid for (none purchase new)...still got a mortgage...but a $400.00 to $500.00 kit is (to me) a fairly substantial expense but if it’s something I want it will be purchased. A friend of mine spends that on a weekend golfing and enjoys every minute and that’s only a weekend....the 4-500.00 I spend will give me enjoyment for 4-5 months....and then I can show it (or not) at shows and contests. So as far as hobby/ disposable income money spent (in my opinion) it’s not a bad price. I’m not a wealthy man, I’m an automotive mechanic doing ground support equipment maintenance for a charter air carrier.
    2 points
  17. Brick sent me a pic of him after celebrating 5000 hours total time. I finished all of the parts for the buggy and assembled my first ‘test shot’ for fit and to se how it was all going to work. I think the main undercarriage is a little too close to the fuselage so has reworked the master parts of the wings to move them further out and will re-cast these. As I wanted to do Sean’s buggy, I cut out some panels from Thin aluminium sheet and glued them onto the fuselage. Painted, just have to change the wings. Still a lot to do. I will build the trailer and also the tug and am working on designing a small decal sheet.
    2 points
  18. Yes these old kits are a little crude but they are still fun. I just started a Fujimi Ferrari 250 GTO last night myself. Looks great to me.
    2 points
  19. Well...we managed to finish one. That's something. Will post some better pics of both to RFI when the XIVe is finished. have enjoyed this a lot.Hope you like. Regards,Bill.
    2 points
  20. during recent evenings I have been busy with paint! taking a step away from my usual 1:72 projects, I must say that the ejection seat and the pilot are already a project of their own. Here is some pictures. The pre-coloured PE worked quite well even though it was meant for the Trumpeter kit: time for a layer of matt varnish for everything and some gloss for the visor and I can think about closing up the cockpit!
    2 points
  21. Hi Chrish, thanks for your support. Speaking of support I put the aircraft on a temporary stand to see what it looks like, what I have in mind. that is what I am looking for! still need to do more work on the nos wheels as they are standing too far apart. Also the main landing wheels are too square in profile. All in all the landing gear is not bad, but a bit too skinny. You wonder if Revell had the nerve to deliver the parts for the gear in plastic, they might want to have made the parts at least as thick as in real life. I am not so worried for this one, being up in the air. with some final touches on the cockpit, it's almost time to start painting!
    2 points
  22. Here is my first build here on the site. Let me know what you think before I put the 2 halves together! HDW Seat Belts and Baracudacals placards
    1 point
  23. This time model from WW II times, I generally avoid model aircraft with a propeller. I definitely prefer modern aviation. However, from time to time I make a model for someone to order. I present to you such a model F4U-1A Corsair model from the Tamiya skal scale 1:32 This is one of the best models I've built, all the elements fit together without a problem. Model made straight from the box with one addition from yahoo. I invite you to watch, I hope that the model looks good.
    1 point
  24. Future releases, all for the new tool Italeri/Revell IIIE Pantera / COAM conversion Mirage 5P/P3/P4/BA/MA/ELKAN conversion Mirage 5F/Dagger/Nesher/ROSE III conversion  Mirage 50EV/50M conversion Mirage 50C/PA2/PA3 conversion
    1 point
  25. You can jump to the 7:50 mark if you are not iterested in the rest I didn't realize Airfix did a stressed skin effect on this kit.
    1 point
  26. I haven't had a lot of time to mess with this, but I'm still sanding, patching, and sanding........ The fit isn't all that bad, but still, there's a fair amount of work involved. But the main reason I wanted to post was to show you my new toy!! Soon I'll be able to play with the big boys! Problem is, my wife says I can't start it until my B-17 is finished. Should I listen to her or not? Once I start, I'll start a build log. Damn, that looks like it's going to be a lot of fun!! Later gents - and ladies! Lar
    1 point
  27. LSP_K2

    Dragon Bf 109E-4B

    Top deck gun assembly all dolled up and ready for some paint. I certainly won't spend too much time on this, as all cowl pieces will be firmly anchored in place, one way or the other.
    1 point
  28. Thank you! Was trying to give this a war weary look, like it had seen heavy fighting. I'll post more as it comes along I didn't actually take all that many shots while I was building. I'll see if I can take some more later As for display I'd planned to have the panels on the engine deck, and the one with the forward hatches removable so you can see inside still. The turret will be fully removable and if I can make it work, have the roof removable. Trumpeter didn't make it easy to display sadly.
    1 point
  29. CJP

    RAN A4G

    Thanks Anthony - alaninaustria gave me the following info on how he did the VG on his A4 - "Hello CJP - I spray painted lightly over the template with black to mark the exact location, then I used a drop of fluid CA to glue the Vortex-Generators (VGs) down. Time consuming, but well worth it in the end!! " So will give it a bit of thought before I start and approach with caution! Also had some advice from NAVY870 & FAAMAN on BM that the exhaust blank was a rubber bung and had no handle so have removed it regards Chris
    1 point
  30. AlbertD

    References for detailing?

    Did something kinda silly today. Even though I have the Tamiya F4U-1A on the way from Sprue Brothers I stopped by my local hobby shop today and they had the F4U-1D for $25 less than online dealers so I bought it. I couldn't decide if I wanted to fold the wings on the first one or not. Now I can fold D as a Navy version and do the A version as a USMC bird.
    1 point
  31. Had this one parked for a long time. The kit reminded me that what you remember and what is reality are two different things. Pretty discouraged at how crude it is and how inaccurate it is. The absence of decals compared to the photo of how the car should be was really a killjoy. Fast forward 6 months, and having nothing to show except a stillborn Super Hornet, F-4J Phantom, and a P-40F, all on the SOD, i restarted the Hawaiian. Started by stripping off the chrome with Super Clean, LOTS of flash throughout the kit, and started. Basically just painted and built it, did learn that Tamiya gloss acrylic paint + Mr. Color Thinner work great!! Painted the frame this way, was OK to handle within hours!! Last time i built one of these it was with the old square Testors paints, the gloss colors never seemed to dry!! Started to do some plumbing, but the supplied oil/fuel lines look funky. Will do the ignition leads but won't do the rest. Don
    1 point
  32. Nice efforts. Love the torque tube to cable connections going on under the seat. Troy
    1 point
  33. RWS is finished, like everything else needs dull coat I'm now happy with my camo backpacks..... eventually, they look dark in the photos
    1 point
  34. Just those old eyes playin tricks on ya Mike. with the cell phone..will take some better ones with the camera after we finish the other low back. Thanks my friend.
    1 point
  35. ade rowlands

    Dragon Bf 109E-4B

    I know where I've gone wrong now. It was adding the fuselage floor to the cockpit floor as per the instructions. Problems in my builds have resulted in chasing issues caused by that in 2 of my 4 attempts. Build number one was just all kinds of horrible from my own faults though. This last build was going fine. Following kit instructions except for adding the machine gun deck which I know for a fact caused the cover for the guns to not fit without sanding if fitted. Problems then came from the built up 4 piece cowl being too tall for the fuselage but about 2mm. Could see how as up to then it was all going fine. Then I cottoned on. It comes from adding that fuselage lower part as instructed. I even had to sand the fit at the part it joins the fuselage halves at the rear for a flush fit as the fuselage bottom was lower than the fuselage halves. Wing fit wasn't stellar at the wing bottoms either. So to my mind, the gluing of the fuselage bottom to the cockpit floor early on is the culprit. Dont do that, add it to the fuselage halve when joined up later on. Get a much better fit and you shouldn't end up chasing issues with the cowl fit. I've managed to find another kit to try again and test my theory.
    1 point
  36. Cockpit continued : Just a sideline observation on the Quilted side-wall of the cockpit... You will notice by the photo - reference below , that the stitching on the quilted fabric isn't as even or uniform as you would expect... ( the stitching - diamond shapes) So in keeping with detail and observation and also a dedication to those rivet-counters here - I have followed the same practice here with my master internal parts.
    1 point
  37. rosariovw

    1/32 trumpeter F-14D

    hm, strange this, most of the photobucket pics are gone. Did some more work. Its a bit less productive but i try to do some minor stuff each day. Now at the hobby room its 32°c. First, exhausts done, did it in 2 tries, but, resin and thinner, works great t get rid of the feiled paint attempt. I softened the details in the burner cans. As most know, there is a little detail on the real feathers, and i find the aires details to hard. Now i'm sure that the sanding gives a good grip for the paint. Sprayed with Mr Surfacer Black, Let dry overnight, and then did some Alclad gloss black over it. Made my own maskings for the black part of the exhaust petals, after one night i maksed them all . Pale burnt metal went over it. I let it dry for a couple of hours, and the Gloss clear over it. The tube, inserts and fan sprayed with mr surfacer black, overnight drying and then gloss clear, i drybrushed with white, and silver. Some white wash, here the results. The shrouds are painted with my own blend, some claer gloss, and they look great The rest of the engine covers are fitted, some sanding, removing the support on the inside helped alot.All is flush now. For the fuselage, and boddy, next is filling and sanding. Did the horizontal stabilizers, glued them, filled the panel lines, and then masking. Like on some aircraft, there are panel lines, and later moddels have all the lines filled. So, i wanted to get that look. There is the result, after the masking, some layers surfacer, removed the tape, and then the black primer on.
    1 point
  38. A huge shout out to David W. Aungst, who I happened to see creating F-14 tail decals for a project of his. One of his F-14's carried the earlier Strike Test airplane-swoosh marking. I asked for a few and he printed them up since this Prowler carried the same marking around the same timeframe. We have been exchanging emails on how best to put them down since they are delicate and printed on white backing. Following his directions they went down tonight with little fuss. A light brushed on coat of Future and they look terrific. One curled up a little bit (I was warned), one of the hotter decal setting solutions melted the port marking a tad, but not enough for me to cry about. The results below....Thanks again David!! Cheers Collin
    1 point
  39. The drop tanks would be a great idea, and maybe some 108 gallon paper tanks. Other replacement items that would make a big difference would be the landing gear covers, and the inner clamshell doors, a Schick-Johnson seat, SCR-695 set, corrected cockpit floor and rudder pedals, K-14 gunsight. The Airscale instrument panel is brilliant so that is taken care of, but the rest of the cockpit could use some help, although that could get complicated deciding on which block number/time period to do. All that being said, you are already covering the most important and difficult areas of concern with the kit; the nose contour and the wheel well and wing spar. You've also done the exhaust and shroud which will be a great improvement. The gear legs are the other major problem, but that would have to be in metal of some sort. From the long list of items above I think the gear doors and clamshell doors, Schick-Johnson seat and maybe the gunsight might be good items to consider. The rest could be taken care of with some modelling and scratch building. Thank you so much for paying some attention to this kit! It really is miles ahead of the Trumpeter version even though the molds are approaching 50 years old. I've been slowly struggling with one, but your parts will make the next one so much easier and faster. And there will be another one started because of that. Richard
    1 point
  40. Hi DonH and 1to1scale, defeat is not what I am risking anymore I think. After having completed the assembly of the fuselage I think that most other things will be easier. Especially now that I have a solution for the landing gear see below. First I still had to mount the foldable wings. I already knew that I would have to cut the lip on the outside wing part of the hinge, but after glueing the wing halves together I concluded that the lip is also too thick to fit inside the outer wing: not so nice Revell.... after having sanded the lip thinner, it fit into the slot: having glued the parts together, top and bottom seam are very ok: both wings attached, on with the moving surfaces! the hinge cover, slats and flap covers fit quite well looking from above: but the slats will make far too large an angle if you mount them without gaps. So I had to leave a rather large gap to make the angle work. this will need to be filled: though I will mount the flaps after painting, I clamped them temporarily to see how it goes together. at least this fits! Another possible headache was resolved with the modification of the landing gear. Below to the right the original pieces, they require a lot of cleaning up. However the hinge mechanism could be separated quite easily in order to put them in the fully extended position, assembled to the left bottom. Also the nose landing gear can be easily extended:
    1 point
  41. Out2gtcha

    Mclaren MP4-23 1/12

    Very cool. Looks more like a small spaceship.
    1 point
  42. hi gents, indeed I am making good use of the fora so far, the trick here really is dry fitting to make sure that you are not going to be surprised when parts are glued. After all had dried I could finally mount the fuselage top and nose, this time with no stress in the plastic: around I just need to fill small gaps: the elevator connection is really sticking out from the fuselage too much, need to sand that down still: also at the cockpit things align pretty much ok: I read some things about the nose, it should have a constant radius in the side view, Revell has made a bit of a kink in it. With sanding sticks I have tried to make the radius more constant: before glueing the wings together I decided to add the outer wings an see how things fit: Also here is seems that the hinge mechanism is 2 mm too long, causing a gap: also the lid on the hinge does not fit without taking away material, the manual does not mention it: so out comes the cutters: now it starts to fit better, I need to take 2 mm off of the outside hinge lip:
    1 point
  43. We're sorry , that's simply not allowed here .
    1 point
  44. Craig, Really some fantastic metalwork on the "bathtub --- not to mention ingeneous planning! You have your own "think tank" going on in your head! "Your" bathtub photos, with the fuselage structure in the background are looking like they came out of a manual or from the on-line photos of the "Swoose" replica bathtub --- except yours are sharper and clearer! The cushion sculping came out fine; I'd tone down the wash in the creases and buttons just a tad. Looks a little to high contast. Might just be to much shine. Just my taste, though. Bottom line is it looks like a cushion and not a "slab." Keep it up, Craig. That light at the end of the tunnel gets closer and closer. Once you get her finished, everyone who hasn't followed along here is going to be asking who put out the B-17C kit and where can I order one! Terry
    1 point
  45. Very nice work but at the same time with all that light guage metal, you wouldn't want to be up in one of those if someone was cross with you and trying to do something about it.
    1 point
  46. hi mark, indeed it seems that this kit has the 1 mm issue over the whole length of the body, and not just the engine compartment. I will show photo's later but they confirm your statement. after having built up the intake duct it is time to mount the bottom plate. in order to fit it, the inner structure needs to be cut through, otherwise the hinges of the wheel doors on the wheel bay will foul! the front plate of the bottom needs to go in between the intake plates. the picture below shows why this is so difficult to align afterwards: by aligning the intake walls to the rest of the structure first, I managed to solve this fit issue. after the mounting of the wheel bays the assembly looks like this. by sliding the bottom plate from the aircraft's back to front I managed to maneuver the plate in between the hinges. notice how the intake insides do not connect to the bottom plate yet. it requires some stress and glue to align them: between the wheel wells all fits well: now everything must be glued. the clamps look more dramatic than it is, just a little force needed to be applied. glue everything from the back to the front: an hour later and everything is fixed, now the intakes can be clamped and glued against the bottom plate:
    1 point
  47. Last week I managed to do some things again. I checked some of the outer panels without the wheel bays built up. It turns out that everything fits quite well without any of the internal parts causing conflicts (of course after having taken 0.5 mm off of the tops of the bulkheads as well as the ECS internals on top of the engine). So for those who want to build this model with the wheels up, you might as well leave all the wheel bay parts out. After the base coat I spayed the intakes and the parts of the wheel bays white, followed by a Flory Models grime wash. Because I had been warned already about the bulkhead sticking out from the nose wheel bay, possibly conflicting with the canopy, I tried to dry fit the parts. As it turns out, if you sand all parts square and true, and shave just a bit off the diagonal sides of the bulkhead, everything fits again. the same goed for the air intakes: I fitted everything up front and sanded the glue surfaces square and I was pretty much okay. After some alu on the first fan blades and some gunmetal on the exhaust, I was ready to assemble the lot together. The part with the last fan blades needed some sanding of the outer surfaces, otherwise they would not with into their slots. other than that, the intake tunnel came together without gaps. The hole pattern in the intakes have been completely filled and sanded, I am thinking about making a decal to replicate this. The whole pattern was in the wrong orientation anyway. The grey separation has been taped off here, I needed some photo's to figure it out since Revell does not give any guidance here. intake tunnel right before close up: engines dry brushed with alu: and with some clamps and glue the intake tunnel is assembled, without gaps!
    1 point
  48. Craig, Quoting you from Post #1, 12/22/14 --- "turn it into something resembling a D." The aft fuselage is the most defining characteristic of the C/D and your "taped together, in the rough" photos bear out that you have gone beyond simply "resembling!" I certainly hope your arm was long enough to reach back and give yourself a pat on the back! Good thing you've taken photos from the beginning. Once you've skinned her into a gleaming B-17C, no one will believe the meld of different materials you brought together to achieve the end result. You've plainly mastered utilizing acrylic to fabricate parts as well as vacuforming it. Compared to the frailty of other vacuform mediums, acrylic does offer substantial solidity and workability. I can only imagine the nightmare of attempting to join the tailcone halves pulled from the usual materials. Judging from how nicely the tailcone is polishing out, the tail lights will certainly not be "lost" in distortion. Keep astounding us --- MAESTRO! Terry
    1 point
  49. My word - very impressive Craig I have an allergy to transparencies so I get scared watching what you are doing that said. you are making it look easy so maybe I need to man up when the time comes I love every minute of this build.. Peter
    1 point
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