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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/14/2019 in all areas

  1. AND SOME MORE Thanks for looking!!
    12 points
  2. I built this one a while back and have just had the opportunity to attend Eric G's lair where Eric and I spent a day photographing models (well Eric did while I watched!!). The kit is the Tamiya E which had the usual mods, removal of raised panels, re-scribing etc. I used Aires seats, Eduard interior etch, slime lights, engine internals, Sparrow missiles and wheels, GT cans (not as detailed as Aires or Eduard but the only available that are the correct diameter), Sierra Hotel seamless intakes, Zacto sidewinders, resin cluster bombs (can't remember who by) and Master pitot and AOA probes. The kit was painted freehand with MRP paints which are excellent. I spent around 12 months to complete her enough of my drivel, lets let the pictures do the talking! ENJOY!
    7 points
  3. Tim aka Wunwinglow was so kind to print the sponsons on his Form2 for me - thank you very much, Tim! I have spent the last evening preparing the first sponson - the nonskid on the walkways was applied using Tamiya putty, rivets lost during sanding were replaced with Archer ones. The walkways are very rough on MH-53Es, hence the use of Tamiya Putty instead of Mr Surfacer. The center fuselage windows were closed and puttied as well.
    7 points
  4. during recent evenings I have been busy with paint! taking a step away from my usual 1:72 projects, I must say that the ejection seat and the pilot are already a project of their own. Here is some pictures. The pre-coloured PE worked quite well even though it was meant for the Trumpeter kit: time for a layer of matt varnish for everything and some gloss for the visor and I can think about closing up the cockpit!
    7 points
  5. The 'Ninak' Liberty Engine exhaust has been put straight into the mold I will need another four for the two Liberty Engines. The 'Ninak' Exhaust looks to be an almost exact match to the ones fitted on the Aeromarine... Cheers: Kent
    6 points
  6. kkarlsen

    Make the others jealous

    Wohoo! My 'Anniversary' order finally arrived yesterday. It's been 'en route' New Zealand - Denmark twice, Since customs didn't give any notice the first time, it was returned to NZ... So I'm quite happy the kits finally arrived. Especially since I needed the exhausts from the Ninak Liberty Engine for the Aeromarine build. Cheers: Kent
    6 points
  7. The truck is coming along... Chassis assembled. Cab. The resin wheels are the really an improvement to the skinny rubber wheels of the kit. Thanks for looking in: Kent
    6 points
  8. Cheers guys, thanks for the comments. i assembled the instrument panel. This is supposed to have an acetate sheet with the instruments printed on it sandwiched between the photo etch and resin, but I will use Airscale decals for the instruments. The instructions call for an all over slate grey interior, but I decided to paint the metal surfaces grey and the fabric surfaces a light tan colour with wood stringers. Virtually none of the fabric area is going to be visible anyway. The interior metal framing has been painted with my own custom mix of very dark grey. I usually would use MRP tyre rubber for this, but our one and only Australian distributor of this paint is being annoyingly slack in keeping stocks of it at the moment, so I had to invent my own. As I am quite fond of using SMS paints, I mixed in some white to the SMS Camo Black to make the dark grey and have now called it a Tyre black! A contrast of the new colour to its base colour of Camo black can be seen by the ammo container next to it. The good thing about this is that the required black colouring of the metal fittings and frames in the cockpit can be separated a bit to give them a bit of contrast between them instead of all being painted black.
    5 points
  9. I'm not sure if this is what your reffering to, the nose strut always appears to be backwards when the yoke is not on it.
    4 points
  10. My friend Bill Schwarz asked me about the gaping hole behind the nose gear, I hadn't looked at that problem area at that point, so I looked at it yesterday and this morning and figured out a few things to make it better. The realationship between the nose gear and the forward gear doors needs to be closed up, I don't have drawings to determine which is incorrect, the length or location of the forward gear doors or the location of the nose gear itself or both ??? I was planning on pinning the nose gear in for painting purposes so I built a styrene recepticle and built up the back wall to move the gear forward an 1/8 of an inch so I wounldn't have to lengthen the gear doors. I took the kit part #90, the door for behind the nose gear which is totally incorrect and simply used it as a filler, I knotched it to go around the gear strut after looking at a bunch of photos. I'll have to make the little tiny gear door that is mounted to the back of the strut.
    4 points
  11. worked a little bit on the upper struts today.
    4 points
  12. Replacement has arrived for the HK 'Dambuster'. Boeing B-17G Flying Fortress 'Late Production'... One of my top three airplanes, a 'must have' in my book. Although it will require a lot of work, I'm happy with this. Cheers: Kent
    4 points
  13. Vynce804

    Revell 1/32 Ju88

    Well it’s finally finished! Overall a really enjoyable build. A great kit with some fit issues but excellent detail and brilliant value for money. I had to work quite hard on the scratch building and re scribing some panel details as I’m not a natural builder. Aftermarket was obviously the engine and also brass machine gun barrels. I should probably have used resin wheels. And I think Andy (monthebiff) mentioned seat belts and I regret not putting them in now but at the time I was pushing the build on and didn’t have any to hand and didn’t want to wait. What next? Well the airfix hellcat is only a week away! cheers Matt
    4 points
  14. Good evening everyone, I have joined recently, and browsed through so many inspirational builds. An Italeri Mirage IIIE/R is on the bench, and I'm in the process of doing some research, detailing and corrections for a SAAF Mirage IIIEZ. The Martin-Baker Mk.BRM4 ejection seat was actually done almost two years ago, and the kit seat was used as a basis for this. The two boxes on either side of the bulkhead were removed. The instrument panel is too round at the top, as well as the radar screen should be flat, and not have the little dome on the surface. The instrument cowl has also been stripped of detail, to replace with the correct goodies. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/8389/wgoOys.jpg The exhaust nozzle was quite tricky. It was stripped of the inside details, and a soldering iron was used to melt the rectangular recesses on the outside of the petals. Styrene rods and plastic card was used to replace the inside detail. Another issue, is the vertical panel line in front of the intakes, which needs to be filled and rescribed. The intakes also seem to be a little bit too long, but i'll investigate this thoroughly before I start chopping away. Cheers!
    3 points
  15. Guess I will just put this here for a start... First off, I will not in any way be attempting to finish this within the GB time frame - But as it is a 'Multi-Engined' kit, here we go... The subject of this build, will be this very well known 'ship': Boeing B-17G-70-BO 43-37675 (VE-N) / 'Trudie’s Terror' / 'Patches' / 'Flak Magnet'. 532nd Bomb Squadron 381st Bomb Group, based at Ridgewell Airbase UK.
    3 points
  16. Dandiego

    F2H-3/4 Big Banjo

    I have finished scribing and have had a chance to get some white primer on the underside. I will be re-scribing and re-riveting any areas that need it. Also you can see the installed pylons. I have wet sanded the underside and will begin pre-shading in the coming days. Dan
    3 points
  17. The thing with the Stuka goes like this for the moment. I have given the primer layer. I have marked some notches in the landing gear tried to imitate dents.
    3 points
  18. And here's the requested info about my current photography set up. It's basically a home-built table, a pair of cheap studio lighting rigs, and a roll of plain white continuous printer paper. Here's a photo I took of the raw set up, shortly after putting it all together: The cutting mat is A2, and the table top is a piece of MDF, 80cm x 80cm. The legs are something I bought from the same local hardware chain (Bunnings), and screwed into the bottom fo the MDF. Probably around AU$30 all up. The two light stands came in a cheap set from eBay, and of generic Chinese manufacture. There are 5 x 15W daylight bulbs in each, hidden behind the diffuser covers. Each globe has its own switch, so you can turn them on and off in any combination you desire. More light is usually better in my opinion, so I always have them all on. I've only had on globe blow so far, and replacements were cheap and easy to find on eBay (again from China). For a better idea of the size of the table, here's a photo with the HK Models Meteor posed atop it: Plenty of room there! Here's a photo I just snapped of the set up as it stands now: The main difference is the large sheet of white paper I use to cover the table. It's slightly wider than the table (maybe 90cm?), and curves up into a vertical position, giving me a crease-free neutral background in 2 planes. The paper itself comes from a 50m roll of continuous printer paper (80gsm) that I bought from Staples online, and is held in place with bulldog clips at the front, and clear tape at the top. The real beauty of this set up, however, is that when the paper gets dirty or damaged, I simply remove it, roll out and cut another length, and affix it in place. Lastly, the photo below shows the effectiveness of the lights. Note that the room lights are also on during this photo: I also have a stack of A2 card sheets in various colours to use when white doesn't work so well as a background colour. I try to stick with the white as much as possible, but sometimes needs must. I just plonk the coloured card down over the white, and then remove it when I no longer need it. Easy! Any questions happily answered. Kev
    3 points
  19. Listed yesterday by the Luchtvaart Hobby Shop as "coming soon" for a little bit less than fourty Euro's...
    3 points
  20. Having seen the sprues in person, and run my fingers along the moulded stressed skin effects, I felt it was a little overdone, and a little too uniform. I have a personal preference against such effects anyway, so it's just my personal opinion. Kev
    3 points
  21. I was there and saw these sprues in the flesh too (and had a quick chat to Brett). I think I'm more excited about his release than the Lancaster, to be honest. Kev
    3 points
  22. Here is a sample of RLM 81 Braunviolett taken from a Bf 109 K-4 next to Dark Green. As you can see, RLM 81 is rich chocolate brown. These colors, along with RLM 82 Hellgrün, are the most common colors found on recovered Dora 9s. Also of interest is the British publication The Aeroplane Spotter report dated Nov. 29, 1945 of the camouflage color of the captured Ta 152 W.Nr.150158 that describes the colors as the upper surfaces as "various shades of green. On the fuselage the effect is mottled but on the wings two greens make a zig zag pattern." No Brownviolett. Cheers, Jerry
    3 points
  23. Here's a lay-out of parts and sprues, especially to give you "nay-sayers" an impression of what it looks like. I must say i've never owned a "miniart" kit, but the quality of parts is very pleasing. (btw the little miniart envelope in the lower right corner holds the PE parts for the seat belts and such):
    3 points
  24. Started to re-build the outrigger landing gear for the wings, using K & S brass rod and square tubing and some photo-etched nuts and washers. Using Harold's/AMS Resin Wheels.
    3 points
  25. josebagasteiz

    Ju 87 B2 Stuka 1/24

    Hello again everyone. I have stuck the Stuka's wings and I found a hole in one of the joints. I solved it with a plastic strip.
    3 points
  26. Sorry it took over 50 years for somebody to finally respond to the pleas for inclosed wheelwells for their Airfix 1/24 Spitfire. These are intended to take the place of the toylike, unrealistic, open wheelwells. Direct fit with a couple of tweaks to the kit wing insides before fitting in. Sorry folks, you wont be able to have your retractable landing gear. Also included with this set are a set of resin replacement wheels. All this fun for $15.00. These are available on Ebay under seller 109ace. While there, check out my over 67 resin conversions and update sets. I am no longer support international sales on items sold on Ebay. But will sell and ship worldwide by going to my Facebook group "Wilde Sau Resin". Joining this group is easy and fast. PM me what you wish to purchase, your Paypal address, and I will send you an invoice including shipping. My offer of free shipping for any purchases of $100 and more still applies. I hate having to do this. But too many single sale of $10 and less items with $14 shipping were killing me in Ebay fees. There is a $25 minimum purchase. for all international sales. I will be offering resin wheelwell inserts for the Bf109E, also in the fine classic Airfix 1/24 series. https://www.ebay.com/itm/303187873348
    2 points
  27. Dandiego

    F2H-3/4 Big Banjo

    Thanks, Kev. Technically Brian, primer is paint. This will be finished in the livery of VF-64 with red and white stripes on the tail. Dan
    2 points
  28. Not very many modelers know that when we started, Archer offered dry transfers for aircraft, but we did. So here's one from the vault - 1995 to be exact. Researched by Rodney Williams. Comes with large color placement instructions. We only have a few and when these are gone, they're gone. $8.95 CLICK HERE
    2 points
  29. Wow, excellent problem solving! Moving the gear forward, VS having to modify the gear door (s) is a stroke of genius, and in the long run the extra move forward will likely never be even noticed. Question for you though............ Maybe I'm seeing things, or maybe you have a plan I'm not aware of or maybe its just temporary, but doesn't the Harrier nose gear fork sweep back and not forward?
    2 points
  30. I did some dry fitting on the belly after my post and oh boy - it's really bad. A small misalignment will lead to huge gaps on the wing's underside. I hoped to be able to attach the wings after painting.
    2 points
  31. Nick, I agree that some paper seatbelts are very fiddly (Sutton ones come to mind, which is a function of the original design) but I’ve built several sets of Radu’s Luftwafffe belts without finding any problems. I now have more completed LW belts than completed LSPs actually....
    2 points
  32. Thanks for those color swatches! You've really helped fill in this gap in my knowledge. Jerry, Thank you for posting the image of the sample. It definitely defines those colors. Gaz
    2 points
  33. I am really not a fan of the oil canning on this. I've seen several Lancs during my travels and those of us that live in Calgary have access to two. There is definitely some oil cannning on them but not to that extent. Here are some pics I took of the Nanton Lanc.
    2 points
  34. Greg W

    RAN A4G

    Wow! I am impressed with how good the landing gear repair looks after the dive. It's amazing that the refueling probe survived. Great to see this coming along, Chris. Looking forward to seeing more progress. Greg
    2 points
  35. I got the fuselage together and the camera upper and lower fuselage clear panels glued into place as of last week. This weeks progress so far has seen the installation of the wings. Posted below is the progress so far with the problematic seams noted in red. Lots of filling and sanding in all four areas.......
    2 points
  36. ,,,,yup,I wanted to tidy it up a bit,though I wasnt worried terribly about it since it was an inboard pylon...I was more concerned about what I may have done wrong and didnt want to mess up thje rest of the model...I was following the procedure I had seen written elsewhere and it didnt seem to be working "as advertised"...it said enamel paint ,then coat of Future-or 'varnish' before applying decals and wash... ...I just couldnt seem to get dried areas off and didnt want that on rest of model-but the AK Paneliner has worked perfectly and I am continuing to use it with success so far....I'm thinking that my initial application of enamel paint in some areas of the model were a little 'rough'....not applied correctly,therefore resulting in the difficulty of removing the excess dried wash....that even though I had it well coated with the Future,it had settled into the lower areas and was not going to come out unless I re-did the paint job....but alls well that ends well...all your answers have steered me down the right path,and I've learned another lesson for the next model down the line.....actually-the next 5 models that are lined up on the runway waiting for takeoff.......thank you all very much for your help...
    2 points
  37. Back from work - here are the promised picture of the assembly: The fuselage went together quite quickly but fit wasn't perfect. The horizontal stabilizer needed little shims - 0.2mm on the upper side and 0.4mm on the lower one - to get a decent fit. The intersection at the rear (not a panel line) still needs some filler. The fit of the rear cockpit cover (without comments): Then there's some good news - the camera window recieved its clear part and so did the coverage regulator. Beforehand there was some filling (after the black guide coat) necessary and when the PVA glue from the clear parts is hard enough, the whole section will get polished. I'll spend the next days cleaning up all the joints and panel lines on the fuselage.
    2 points
  38. Here is a scan of page 37 from Merrick and Hitchcook's Official Painting Guide to German Aircraft 1935-1945. The colors chips are based on matches to actual surviving aircraft, from the top a Me 262, a Do 335 and a He 162. Conceding to the limitations of color monitors etc., it is, none the less, illustrative the dark olive nature of RLM 81.
    2 points
  39. Unfortunately no as I did not write one for that kit. It is a pity as it would have been the shortest 109 one...
    2 points
  40. Some inspiration...................... A 1/2 scale R/C Bulldog
    2 points
  41. Im probably the last person on earth who should be talking about what a Lanc looks like, but to me from all the real aircraft Ive seen IRL during my lifetime (including two Lancs) dont really line up with what WnW is displaying. What I mean, is WnWs portrayal of stressed skin seems to be a bit too uniform to my eye. The B-52s and Lancs up close I've seen do in fact have stressed skin in a lot of areas, but not all areas across the airframe. The stressed skin effect seems to only occur in specific areas, and not at all in others. However unless I'm seeing something that isn't there, it feels like WnW put the stressed skin effect everywhere across the entire airframe on virtually every outer surface. To my eye this gives not so much a stressed skin effect, but more of a quilting effect one may see on fabric or material. Just an observation, and I may retract it all if/when I see the sprues in person, but this is just the impression I get off pics.
    2 points
  42. Trust me, the seat is fine! It may look narrow, but IT WAS narrow. This was discussed here before, with more photos: You can safely leave the seat as it comes in the box, it is perfectly fine. HTH Radu
    2 points
  43. Thanks, Brian! The gloss that spilled did level out pretty well by itself and doesn't look too bad. I took a cloth polishing pad on my Dremel to it, and that seemed to smooth out the bad spots pretty well. It is, as they say, good enough for government work, and I'm calling it done! I'll try to take some better pictures for a RFI post later.
    2 points
  44. Just a slight offer of Help, I found this photo of a VMA-223 Bird just before launch. I wanted to point out the tip of the Refueling Probe, and this picture shows all the little details pretty well.
    2 points
  45. A little detailing on the refueling probe and fairing.
    2 points
  46. Hi Chrish, thanks for your support. Speaking of support I put the aircraft on a temporary stand to see what it looks like, what I have in mind. that is what I am looking for! still need to do more work on the nos wheels as they are standing too far apart. Also the main landing wheels are too square in profile. All in all the landing gear is not bad, but a bit too skinny. You wonder if Revell had the nerve to deliver the parts for the gear in plastic, they might want to have made the parts at least as thick as in real life. I am not so worried for this one, being up in the air. with some final touches on the cockpit, it's almost time to start painting!
    2 points
  47. Hello friends. I have added parts of my construction in the engine compartment that I have not seen in any model of the Stuka but in some real photo of it. Although I do not know if it will be visible when it is finished. I present the photos: And here is one of the real photos that I refer to: Source: WWW.WARBIRDSRESOURCEGROUP.ORG I hope I have done well.
    2 points
  48. josebagasteiz

    Ju 87 B2 Stuka 1/24

    Hi all. This is what I have done so far.
    2 points
  49. got some work done on the seams, all of them on the assembly so far have been dealt with: [ and on the bottom side of the fuselage, not too bad: and I have also assembled all the moving surfaces of the wings: then continued dry fitting some cockpit parts. the seat was just assembled to compare with the resin version from Aires: and as others have already found out, the canopy does not fit due to the seat sitting 2 mm too high: with the new seat I also need to do something, but the conflict is smaller: the new seat itself fits without any further adjustments: I added a Tamiya F-16 pilot in the seat, everything fits almost without any cutting or sanding:
    2 points
  50. 2 points
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