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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    AlexM

    1/32 Marauder

    I also printed the instrument panel. I plan to use instrument dial decals, which Peter (Airscale) kindly sent me:
  2. 3 points
    Memir

    Su-27 "Arctic Flanker" Trumpeter 1/32

    Trumpeter Su-27 1/32 finally finished... I tried to build heavy weathered Flanker based above polar circle with units called “ Guardians of the North”. I used Zacto intakes, nosecone, missiles and pylons. Aires Cockpit, wheel wells and exhausts. Armory resin wheels. Front windshield is a scratch build as kit part was really bad in shape. Colors - MRP paint including silver primer, transparent paints and metalizers. Tamiya panel liners and weathering Masters used.
  3. 3 points
    sandbagger

    'Skeletal' Fokker D.VII

    Hi all, I thought you might like to see my 18th 1:32 scale build - the German Fokker D.VII fighter. The major airframe components are 3D printed from the ‘Shapeways’ web site. The airframe structural components were designed by ‘Aviattic’ and engine parts by ‘Bob Monroe’. Other components for the model were ‘donated’ from the ‘Wingnut Wing’ kit of the Fokker D.VII (OAW built) (Kit No: 32030). This model, with associated figures, will eventually be part of a dual Fokker D.VII display. I know I don't often reply to your generous comments, but rest assured they are very much appreciated, Mike The basic list of modifications and additions to the model are as follows: ‘Taurus Models’ engine intake manifold lock rings (3211), ‘Taurus Models’ engine fuel priming cups (3219), ‘Taurus Models’ engine complete timing gear - conical valve springs (3209), ‘Eduard’ Swordfish hinge and panel set (32204), ‘RB Productions’ British wire terminals (RB-P32013). Spark plugs. Cylinder fuel primers. Valve springs. Ignition lead support tubes. Gun synchronization mechanism. Ignition leads. Oil reservoir sight glass. Hydraulic pipes. Intake manifold lock rings. Sump oil tube. ‘Flugzeugwerke’ (Bob Monroe) (printed by ‘Shapeways’) Mercedes D.III Oil Pump, Mercedes D.IIIa Cylinders (hollow), Mercedes D.IIIa Crankcase and engine block, German Aircraft Magnetos, Mercedes Cylinder clamps, ‘Aviattic’ (printed by ‘Shapeways’) Rear fuselage frame. Tail plane. Rudder. Elevator. Ailerons. Fin. Upper wing (3 sections) (scratch bracing tapes, leading edge ‘saw tooth’ fairings). Lower wing (two sections) (scratch bracing tapes, leading edge ‘saw tooth’ fairings). Tail skid (with scratch made suspension cables and springs). Wings leading edge ‘stacking pads’. Rear fuselage decking panel. Cockpit padded surround. ‘Aviattic’ Fokker seat. Undercarriage assembly – scratch built including brass struts. Fuel, oil and coolant pipes, Engine controls – throttle, magneto, alternator, spark advance, hand throttle. ‘REXx exhaust. ‘Proper Plane’ Heine propeller (wood). ‘GasPatch’ Spandau machine guns. Gun installations. Cockpit control cables – rudder, ailerons and elevator. Cockpit cross bracing lines. Gun firing cables. Gun synchronization mechanism. Engine controls. Instrument leads/cables. Fuel pressure pump pipe. Seat harness. Rigging points. External flight control lines. ‘Steve Robson’ handmade wheels and tyres. Photo-etch radiator. Radiator shutter and control cable/pulley. All internal cross bracing cables. Aileron control cables with associated pulleys. As usual I've created a downloadable build log in Adobe PDF format, for those who might want to refer to it for reference or build details. It contains full step by step descriptions of the model build, its modifications/changes and is also supported with illustrations and photographs. If viewed in Adobe Reader, each build log has book marked chapters/headings for easier navigation through the log. My model website has the gallery page, so to view any model, go to the gallery and select it. If it has a PDF build log, it will be available to download using the 'PDF' icon on that models photo's page. For any photograph, just click the photo to enlarge or reduce the viewing size. http://igavh2.xara.hosting
  4. 3 points
    LSP_Kevin

    Attitude Aviation Buchon Conversion

    Another brief update. I'm continuing to work on all the nose pieces, with the next step being to install the photo-etched radiator face into the lower piece: Fit here is almost exact, so placement has to be equally so, or it just won't go. It's important to position the two upper ends below the moulded ribs at the sides; this ensures good alignment and fit, but unfortunately it's not made clear in the instructions. In fact, the quality of the instructions is my only beef about this conversion set, as they trail badly behind the exceedingly high quality of everything else. Note that the radiator grille is very see-through, so you can either put a bulkhead behind it somewhere, or paint all the internals black. I haven't decided which way I'll go yet, but the latter option is definitely the simplest! I opted to install the front lower piece to the main nose section first, rather than attaching it to the main lower piece: I think this allows for a better and more accurate fit, since it locks into place better this way, and the other piece sits very neatly behind it: Note that I've also installed the plate that sits behind the spinner (not sure what it's called). As you can see, everything fits really well, and a lick of Mr. Surfacer will take care of any wider gaps. Speaking of the spinner, I've removed, cleaned up, and test fitted those parts too: Still a bit of work to do there, as the prop boss and blades are all separate pieces, and the blades themselves need to be modified in tip shape to be appropriate for this build. Unfortunately, no template or specific instructions are given for this, other than make them resemble Hamilton Standard units. Kev
  5. 3 points
    LSP_Kevin

    Attitude Aviation Buchon Conversion

    OK, time for another update! Progress has been slower than I'd hoped, but I've had word from Espen that he's sending me the missing wingtip parts, along with some other minor bits that come as a separate pack to build the military service version. I'd also stalled on the cockpit, as I didn't have the required size of styrene rod to form an axle for the trim wheels. I've ordered some, and they should arrive by mid-week. Instead, I've been pushing forward with getting all the nose parts prepared. The new resin nose actually comprises several pieces, and it's important to pay attention to the assembly sequence, lest you leave something out that you can longer put in! The first task is to add the radiator exit ramp to the lower nose piece: In the process of gluing it in place, I've discovered that my go-to bottles of CA are past their best, and I should have ordered some more when I ordered the styrene rod. Oops! I did eventually find a new tube of ZAP CA gel hidden away in one of my drawers, so that will suffice in the interim. I'm off to a show tomorrow, so hopefully I can pick up some fresh CA there. Another thing you must attend to before closing everything up is to fit the new exhaust stacks. The resin units are wonderfully detailed and superbly cast, and my photos don't do them justice: There's a bit of resin flash to clean up between each pipe, but it's otherwise a simple matter of sawing off the casting blocks, and you're good to go. Each stack has the lower portion of its associated external fairing moulded into place, and this mates with the upper half of the fairing moulded into the nose piece: There's a bit of a gap there, but the angle of the photo above is hiding it. As far as I can tell, it should be a panel line, so I'll fill it enough to leave an impression of a line, rather than attempt to eliminate it completely. I used to be a paint-then-glue guy, but in recent years I've evolved a more nuanced approach, and I'm quite happy these days taking a glue-then-paint approach, so these exhausts will be painted and weathered once all the main painting is done (I like to do well bays this way too these days). With the exhausts out of the way, I could test-fit the rest of the nose components: For a loose, unglued fit, I think that's pretty good. There'll be some gaps, but a lick of Mr. Surfacer or similar will take care of them nicely. They should mostly be panel lines anyway, so you'll want to leave some indication of such. OK, that's it for now! Thanks for checking in. Kev
  6. 2 points
    discus

    P-40N Eduard 1/32

    Hello Here is my last built: Hasegawa P-40N reboxed byEduard. Nice kit. Easy built I used guns from Masters and tried the eduard Look dashboard. Markings are a bit of what if as I screwed up the decal sheet with fat spills from cooking.... stupid... Anyway, with some leftover from previous kits I managed to figure something convincing. (or so I think)
  7. 2 points
    AlexM

    1/32 Marauder

    Small update: I printed some stuff for the radio operator section. For the seats, I tested two ways to print them in different angels. Both versions turned out OK. All based on from what I see on photos, so no guarranty for accuracy Here's a quick arrangement to give you an idea (blame on the mechanic for not screwing tight the radios): Maybe the seat is a little bit too high in relation to the radio-shelf Cheers Alex
  8. 2 points
    Hi Paulo, My F-15C coincidentally came in second to a very nice F-15I built by a very friendly guy who introduced himself as Yuri, who apparently follows my builds and knows about all of them. Now THAT was Gold to me! Congrats again Yuri if you read this post. As an aside, Fine Scale Modeler will be publishing the F-15C build in a book or special issue this fall, while I think the Spitfire will be in a regular magazine issue about the same time. Back to the current build. I’m getting really excited because I’m going to be painting soon. Painting the sub assemblies is re-teaching me how to paint Gloss Black. Have a super smooth finish to begin with and expect lots of crap to stick to the paint, which is very frustrating no matter what I do to avoid it. Glossy finishes create static electricity, which attract anything in the air, especially in our dry climate. I also just painted the landing gear. For all the pain of this kit, the landing gear is superb, with the usual pin mark and seam issues. Cheers, Chuck
  9. 2 points
  10. 1 point
    AlexM

    1/32 Marauder

    Hello there. Maybe you know this phenomenon. I have several more or less unfinished models lying around. And then, something completely new comes to mind. Some months ago, I was thrilled by the idea of a 1/32 Marauder, and despite my other builds, I started to work on a 3d-model. I already printed some major parts. I now have some days of leave of absence, and hope to make some progress (as well with my other unfinished projects). But who knows when I get distracted with something completely new again Propellers and engines are lent from a free 3d-model for visual demonstration only. Here is a picture of an early stage, where you can see how the wings are made of several segments: The main fuselage is divided into three sections due to the maximum build-volume of my 3d-printer (about 20 cm). The left and right halves are 0,5 mm apart, with a recessed line in the middle. The three sections are first glued together. This approach helps to keep alignment. Otherwise, gluing six separately printed fuselage parts together while keeping alignment would be a nightmare. On the fuselage, I already scribed the panel-lines, with the drawing in the Warpaint book as a reference. The fuselage is now more or less ready to be sawed apart into left and right halves to get access into the interior. The most important "tool" when doing this kind of modelling: Cheers Alex
  11. 1 point
    I have recently added these models to my collection. Hope you guys enjoy the pics
  12. 1 point
    Jan_G

    HGW Bf-109E-7/7B - Announced!

    Announced by Mr. Bobek on modelforum.cz today https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=515&t=61755&start=1095 it will be rebox of Dragon kit with wet transfers, fabric seatbelts, canopy masks (both sides), rivets set, PE (Eduard) and maybe Master barrels and Look instrument panel flaps will be coated with decals imitating fabric E-3 and E-4 versions will be included in package, however the first release will be focused on E-7 This should be available in the autumn of this year jan
  13. 1 point
    Hi, all. I needed a break from the 1/32 B-17E project for the group build, so I pulled this kit off the shelf. I've had it for years but never had the desire to build a full interior kit until now. Pretty happy with the results so far. The color schemes probably aren't 100% accurate as references were all over the place. With over 55,000 examples rolling off the assembly line during the war, I'd have to think maybe at least one came out with these colors. :D First the fighting compartment: Next the engine compartment: With the exception of a wire or hose here or there, this is 100% out of the box. This is a nice little kit and the fit has been excellent so far. I'm betting this is just a scaled-down version of the Trumpeter 1/16th scale kit. As the 1/48th T-34/76 was the first kit I built after getting back into the hobby, this kinda brings back some good memories for me. Really been helping to restore the mojo that the Swamp Ghost had been eating.
  14. 1 point
    Just read on Britmodeller, this is a different version to the previous release.
  15. 1 point
    1/32 Hasegawa kits HGW rivet set, wet transfers Barracuda wheels Eagle Cals #104 Aires wheel bay, engine, gun barrels Avionix cockpit All colours MRP
  16. 1 point
    Peter Gregor

    A-4N Ahit 1/32 Trumpeter

    Hi guys, I would like to present my other project, A-4N Ahit tail number 389. I used the Trumpeter A-4M kit with Wingman Models A-4N upgrade set, AMS corrected intake, wheels and refueling probe, Aires cockpit set with homemade upgrades to N version and Eduard exterior, flaps and slats set and Isradecal decals. I used MRP paints and Ammo of Mig washes and Oilbrushers as usual. As the source of information and pictures, I used Double Ugly Book A-4 in IAF service. Thank you for all comments...
  17. 1 point
    First, a bit of introduction as to who I am. My name is Larry Steiner and I live in Grand Rapids, Michigan. I'm a retired electrical/controls/computer engineer who gave up my 60 hour a week job 10 years ago. I'm 76 years old, married to the same woman for 52 years, no children but we have 2 small Cairn terrors (Oops, I mean terriers), both of whom are rescue dogs. My hobbies are photography (I have a Canon DSLR and am a member of the Grand Rapids Camera Club), computers (building & repairing), gardening, and remodeling our home (My wife has the mother of all "Honey-Do" lists!) And also, since I'm a foamer, I also run Microsoft Train Simulator on my computer. What, you mean to tell me you don't know what a foamer is? It's a person who foams at the mouth at the sight of a train! OK, I'm sure you are wondering what the @^%$*& is this greenhorn model builder doing joining a forum of large scale aircraft? Well, I built tons of kits as a kid and over succeeding years I’ve built several large kits of all kinds; aircraft, trucks, cars, and ships. However, I would not call myself a true “Modeler” as they were mostly OOB and, to be honest, quite poorly done. Then, about 15 years ago, I bought the Scarab 38KV kit from Dumas boats. For those of you who don't know, this is a radio controlled model of a 38 ft Wellcraft Scarab racing boat. Those of you who remember 'Miami Vice" - well, this was Don Johnson's boat. It took me several years and a couple thousand dollars, but I did turn this into the Miami Vice boat. It was 60 inches in length, powered by a 15 CC gas/nitro racing engine, and topped out at about 35 MPH (actual). Since this is a large scale “anything goes” forum, I'd like to take a minute and show you a few pics of this Scarab I built. Since this my first post and I haven't figured out how to post multiple pictures yet, here is a link to my Flickr album that contains the photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/181886101@N05/albums/72157708992504978 A couple pictures show the Scarab with the cockpit off. A couple things of note: I found this guy out east who made me an electric on-board starter for the engine. It connected to the output shaft of the engine by means of a belt-driven one-way clutch gear and was powered by 24 “C” size rechargeable Ni-Cads. You can see the cases for these batteries on either side of the inside of the hull. Not only did they power the starter, they also added just enough weight so that the stern sat down in the water at just the right depth. The second thing to note is that I had the engine exhaust routed through a scale model muffler and then to a manifold made from copper water pipe that exited through the 4 exhaust pipes at the stern. Plus, I also soldered nipples onto this manifold and ran the engine cooling water out these same 4 exhaust pipes, just like the real boat. Not to brag, but the effect was awesome! The paint job took forever. The hull has 4 coats of Sherwin Williams Emron automotive lacquer, hand rubbed between coats. On top of this is 3 coats of S-W automotive clear-coat lacquer, hand rubbed and polished to a mirror shine. Now, why did I join the LSP site? Especially when my first decent, presentable model is of a boat? Truthfully, I like to build large models, whether they be airplanes, ships, or what-not. If I could get my wife to let me, I’d love to get the Tamaya “King Hauler” 1:14 scale truck and a trailer with all the bells and whistles. But alas, my wife says I have too much tied up in models as it is. Right now I’m involved in Trumpeter’s 1:200 USS Missouri with both Pontos detail kits as well as several Eduard PE Sets. If there is any interest here, I’ll start a build log of where I am and continue from there. Now, as to aircraft, I was digging around in the attic and came across (3) old Monogram WWII bomber kits; a 1:48 B-17G, a 1:48 B-29, and a 1:72 B-36 Peacemaker. I’d guess these are of the 1980’s era. The B-36 has never been started, but the other two are partially done. Since I’m starting to get a wee bit bored with my Missouri build, I’m getting a bug to work on one of the big bombers, probably the B-17G, since it’s the smallest of the three. Would there be any interest of another build log on this model? I see there are several in the archives but unfortunately the photos are no longer available. OK, I’ve jabbered long enough. Looking forward to chatting with you all. Larry
  18. 1 point
    Compare the true dimensions that Fencer stated in his post to my reworked HK dimensions. Granted, it's not much, (73.96 versus 71.4mm) but I do think it's an important difference!
  19. 1 point
    monthebiff

    1/32 Marauder

    Your work with 3-D printed parts is very exciting Alex, hopefully one day we will all be making our own parts. Truelly exceptional work as always. Regards. Andy
  20. 1 point
    Based on the experiences I had building that Trumpeter Wildcat we've begun to make some changes in our Surface Details. No more multiple scales on the same sheet was probably a good place to start. Full sheets of Dzus fasteners in 1/32 and 1/24 ($17.95 each) Thinner and tighter spaced rib stitching for aircraft with fabric control surfaces in 1/32 and 1/24 ($17.95 each) Full sheets of WWI fuselage stitching in 1/32 and 1/48 ($17.95 each) and 1/24 ($21.95 each - large sheet) We also added dry transfer 1/32 Generic data stencils in Grumman font researched by Larry Webster, N.E.A.M. Available in Black, Red, White and Yellow. ($7.95 each) All of these plus all of our Aircraft Only products can be found HERE. NOTE: If you have previously ordered the older sheets of any of these updates we will exchange them free of charge for the new ones. Please PM me for instructions on how to make the exchange.
  21. 1 point
    well then , two more kits on the list !
  22. 1 point
    EricF

    RF-8G Trumpeter & Fisher Model

    A small update on the speed brake compartment.
  23. 1 point
    chrish

    box scale Cessna 182

    Gloss black base is on and it's showing the model is going to need more sanding and a polish before I can proceed with the Alclad lacquer. Not completely unexpected...
  24. 1 point
    EricF

    RF-8G Trumpeter & Fisher Model

    Hi, The camera bays are painted and I started the plumbing. It is difficult to shoot a good picture due to the contrast between the black and the fuselage. I sprayed first Tamiya flat black and black ink after. A dry brushing with graphite powder gives a good rending. Here below the catapult attachment pin and socket.
  25. 1 point
    chrish

    box scale Cessna 182

    Got the home made windshield fitted, all super glued up and fared in last night and noticed today it isn't centered...Oh well, when I build the perfect model I can brag, that will never happen. I had to undercut one wing and shim the other to fill the gap by the offset windshield but, it's all glued together now. I've also get a better fit of the cowl and aligned the wheels (relocating them caused a camber problem now fixed with brass axles) I've also fitted the spat to the nose wheel (no pics yet) and have begun working on the navigation lights and anti-collision beacon, to be installed on the rudder top, not the fin top...I wonder how it was wired? Some pictures I've found show no anti collision beacon....I may yet go that way as I think it spoils the lines of the plane having that big old flashing light on top of the rudder. Anyway, a couple of pics. Here's the acetate crash molded w/s before gluing in everything is glued together here. Major assembly (finally?) completed the only remaining kit parts to fit Although...I did get a better fit of the cowling finally Thanks for looking
  26. 1 point
    Just a quick update today after spending 3 hours sanding the seams of the fuselage. Went together OK except for the join right under the tail fin which needed a bit of filler. The crew looking nicely ensconced Few wires poking out to tidy up. I've also got the wings together and the Nacelles on. Boy are they a tight fit. I was really struggling to feel how they went in and the instructions aren't too clear. All glued in though. It's ridiculous how far back I have to take the camera now to get a full shot of the wings in, it's one big model. Lastly, while I've had time spare waiting for things to dry, I've sorted out the radio transmitters and receivers Hispanos and Brownings next then...wings will meet fuselage!
  27. 1 point
    Thank you. You can do an entire model with these rivets, but I would recommend filling the “divots” first, for two reasons. First, you want a smooth surface underneath the rivet to adhere to and second, you can place rivets wherever you want without the need to cover the existing ones like I did. I used them extensively on my A-10C build shown above and they really look the part, but they also take many, many hours to apply then seal to hide the carrier film. If you want to improve the kit and create something unique, I’d say go for it! Cheers, Chuck
  28. 1 point
    thierry laurent

    Trumpy 109 G2 Trop tweeks ?

    Indeed, I did not identify that problem at that time and always forgot to update the list. The G2 trop is actually the first late 109 kit released by Trumpeter. It was wrongly packaged as a F4 and later correctly released as a G2. Most of my comments are applicable for the kit. It is indeed very stupid nobody ever released a lower cowling part as, with regard to the shapes, this is the only major issue of the kit. Nothing that cannot be solved with some epoxy putty but this will be time consuming. Besides that, I love the kit and it has positive aspects the Hasegawa or Revell kit do not have. One thing you absolutely need to change is the tires because with time an oily residue is going out of them (a problem I saw in many of my Trumpy plane kits).
  29. 1 point
    June 8/19 A good modeling day, as you will soon see. As I hit the backstretch of this build, there’s lots of picky small parts to deal with, so it’s time to get them out of the way. In almost all of the pics I have of my subject, the landing gear doors and air brakes are in the closed position, so it’s very tempting to leave them that way, creating less work. Other references, however, show these doors open when on the ground, other than the front gear door which is almost always closed. I decided to let the kit parts tell me what to do, which turned out to be fairly easy. Despite all the shortcoming of this kit, the landing gear, gear wells and gear doors are excellent with a lot of interesting fine detail, so I’m leaving them open. Unfortunately, there are a lot of pin marks to deal with, which are fairly easy to fix most of the time, but when they are in a tight recessed area and raised, they can be a real paint to fix. Case in point, the air brakes. How the heck do you get rid of that!? Even the outside of the brake on the right has sink marks that need to be smoothed out. Using a Dremel tool with dental burr, I ground the raised pin mark down, then filled the recesses with putty and tried to sand them down the best I could in such a small space. This is never smooth, so I used an old trick I’ve been using for years, by filling the recess with Future/Pledge as a micro-filler that you don’t need to sand later, to smooth things out. The outside of the brake was sanded down to remove the sink marks, then the rivets were re-punched. After painting, it looks much better. The top pin mark is not as sharp due to all the commotion in that small area, but you will likely not see it on the finished model. Now a bit of a screw-up. Reviewing some tips given in the SIG on LSP, I was certain that my subject didn’t have chaff/flare dispensers, so I removed the panel detail on the belly earlier. Gear door B21 has more of this same detail to accommodate the dispenser fairing B37 on the left in the pic below, so I removed it as well. As luck would have it, my subject DOES have this chaff/flare dispenser, so I should have left everything alone! Not a big deal I guess, but getting detailed pics of F-5’s from underneath is hard, especially for my particular jet. In any case, we have 3 deep pin marks on the inside part of the door on the right to remove. After. Much better after filling and paint. The main landing gear doors are quite nice, with not much clean-up required. Note that I glued the arms to the landing gear now, to create a stronger bond with less chance of glue marks later. I used the Black Box cockpit canopy rails rather than the kit parts, because they are much more detailed and they have the hinges that connect to the recesses in the cockpit sill. They were painted on the outside first, to ensure sufficient paint on the top of each rail which can be seen through the canopy glass from above. The rear canopy assembly that was assembled earlier is only dry fitted to make sure clearances were OK. The front canopy frame which is brass photo-etch has nothing solid to attach to, so I glued on a thin styrene strip to the canopy, then glued the frame to the inside of the strip with CA glue, trimming the bottom of the PE to accommodate the canopy rails. Both gluing operations are very risky to avoid ruining the clear plastic, so be careful! Note: The mirrors, which are not even on the kit instructions, should be folded twice in a recessed position as shown. Many builds of this kit have them hanging down in a straight line with no bends. There is a large vent on the port side of the canopy that bends inward, which is too small on the Black Box part, so I used the kit version instead. Much better- and that join is real and covered by a junction cover I will add later. Note that I'm using Eduard pre-cut paint masks (JX-221) which fit perfectly. The remainder of the canopy glass will covered later. All this work was done over the last few days, but today I attended the Western Canadian Regional Model Contest, where I entered my 1/32 Spitfire and F-15C Eagle Aggressor. Over 500 models were entered in all sorts of categories, but about 35% or more were aircraft. For some reason that I don’t understand, the Eagle came in second, with a Silver in its Advanced Jet Category, but I learned a long ago that model contests are fickle and outcomes are not always predictable. My Spitfire fared much better among more competition in the Advanced Prop Category, winning Gold and a special award for best Canadian aircraft. Pretty cool and my thanks to the organizers and volunteers who put on this bi-annual event. It’s very rewarding to be recognized by your peers, who understand the challenges of our hobby. Cheers, Chuck
  30. 1 point
    chrish

    box scale Cessna 182

    test fitting wings and cowl to the model, wings will need some filler but, not as bad as it could be. Cowl will be a bit of a issue...I'll work on that.
  31. 1 point
    Our new kit the 'E' Type Bomb Trolley with the 12000lb 'Cookie' Blockbuster is now available to go with the HK/WNW Avro Lancaster Kit, it's a resin kit with all the master parts produced by 3D CAD and CNC machining, the research was all done at our local museum and extensive measuring of the Trolley and the 'Cookie' on site. The link to purchase is :- http://www.iconicair.com/12000lb/ Graham Iconicair Bomb Trolley and 12000lb Cookie 001 by uniquenarrowgauge, on Flickr
  32. 1 point
    Martinnfb

    P-47D-30-RE Lt. Willy Lyke, 57th FG

    Realistic, tasteful simply outstanding work Miloslave. Tonal breakdown of the olive drab shade looks fantastic, Bravo! Cheers M.
  33. 1 point
    EricF

    RF-8G Trumpeter & Fisher Model

    Thanks for your positive comments and support. Last pictures before painting.
  34. 1 point
    Out2gtcha

    RAAF FAC OV-10A the back seater.

    Nice work! If you need more or thinner scale wire bundles, I found that white EZ Line stretched and held together with sections of the thicker EZ Line work tremendously well \
  35. 1 point
    ericg

    RAAF FAC OV-10A the back seater.

    After finishing the O-2 and finally getting around to getting a proper display base done for it, it was time to get moving on the OV-10. After all, you can’t have a proper RAAF FAC in Vietnam collection without the Bronco. Not much of an update but I have started wiring up the cockpit. This is an area which I felt will bottle neck this build so I have got stuck into it.
  36. 1 point
    Thanks for the comments! Committed to installation now! Chain drilled the opening, keeping well inside the edge. Sprue nippers to remove the waste piece: The fuel cell bay has been built up. I needed some new 2 part epoxy as the stuff I had laying around for ever did not hold. But all good now: The internal wing/fuselage joint needed trimming to fit the resin. Once that was opened up, I secured the internal join with TXT along the seam to maintain strength. It was then onto the files and sanding sticks to the opening to finish the shaping. Lots of dry fitting of the resin into the opening and a touch of trimming to the resin to fit into the opening properly: I then moved onto the upper wing to remove the material for the filler ports. Again chain drilled then a round file to shape. I got so focussed on the task that I neglected to thin the interior of the upper wing section to give a scale look to the openings prior to drilling them out and as such the holes are a bit thick at the moment: Thanks for looking.
  37. 1 point
    That is the best SU-27 build I have seen - the weathering is incredible. Do you have an WIP you can share on how you achieved your weathering?
  38. 1 point
    chrish

    box scale Cessna 182

    I've finally got a roof on the Cessna. I made a roof from .040" sheet and super glued it to the side walls (after making some covers to hide the wing attachments) as well, the instrument panel is finally in as well. and plunge formed a new windshield to replace the kit windshield as the new roof and old window weren't going to work together. the kit windshield plunge formed windshield
  39. 1 point
    red baron

    KI 27 SPECIAL HOBBY

    hello, my last built , all markings are paint , enjoy :
  40. 1 point
    Total focus on trying to get the cockpit finished. The Airfix kit doesn't include the pilot's relief contraption so I fashioned one out of a bit of sprue and some lead wire wrapped around a wire core. It sat in a sling assembly on the pilot's seat....don't know how the poor navigator coped Starboard cockpit side next. Again, the plastic wiring has been replaced with real wires. The dials are drybrushed in aluminium and the faces filled with gloss varnish to give a lens effect On the port side I've added some wiring taken from reference photos of the NF Mk 11(there aren't many) and added some Airscale cockpit placards and some little aluminium tubes painted black and some lead wire glued inside. The then look like the lamps found on many Allied aircraft. Sequins look just like the anchor points on the wooden fuselage. More lead wire wrapped around a soft wire core gives the pilot's oxygen pipe Now for the bit I've been dreading, fitting the Sutton harnesses. Not normally a problem if you're not fitting the crew in there but, in this case, I am! I like to drill through to get the anchor points for the leg straps then use wire loops through the eyelet of the strap to give realistic anchorage. I got them fitted and took the opportunity to do a little rusty chipping on the seat armour plate. I've weathered the belts with a mix of burnt umber and lamp black oil paints let down to a wash with turpentine Now for the good bit I'm no expert at figures but they're painted, surprise expressions and all and I've got to try and get the harnesses around them. The navigator was a no go. There was simply no way I could make it fit so I've worked on the premise that he's constantly out from his perch looking in the RADAR for targets so he can't do that with is harness on. Therefore it's to the sides of him ready if needed. Pilot wise I had a little more success and even managed to get the pin & post arrangement in there too. I've taken several snaps from different angles to try and show the fittings I downloaded a few authentic WW2 charts from the web and shrunk them to size to busy up the office a little That's about it for now. Next is the reall job, getting the thing in the fuselage and making it all fit! As always, thanks for looking
  41. 1 point
    LukGraph

    Lukgraph Youtube channel

    Red Devils Awards, Italy 2019 (some large scale planes too..) Enjoy.
  42. 1 point
    LSP_Kevin

    Attitude Aviation Buchon Conversion

    Here is today's progress - again, slow but steady. Most of my bench time is constrained to the weekends at the moment, so I'll be posting more those days, and less during the week. Anyway, with the fuselage halves suitably modified, it was time to work on the new resin cockpit piece. There's a substantial casting base that needs removing from below and behind the part: Happily, there are some pretty obviously cut lines moulded in to most of the casting blocks in this set, so the job was merely tedious, rather than fraught. Here's the final part, all cleaned up and being test-fitted to the fuselage: It actually fits even better than it appears to in the photo, as the tape isn't holding it in place all that successfully. Note that when screwing up the forward mating edge on the starboard side, I also removed the kit's locating lug for the cockpit floor on that side, but you can see that the one on the port side is still in place, and lines up perfectly. I hope the missing one doesn't cause alignment issues later on! The next area that needs to be dealt with is the new lower front portion of the wing centre section. This is supplied as a replacement resin piece, which again required careful removal from its casting block: Here it is, taped into place with all the other components worked on so far: The kit piece itself still needs to be modified so that it can mate to the new resin forward section. This build is turning into quite the jigsaw puzzle! Finally, here's a photo of the assembly above on its belly: It's important to get all these components fitting together comfortably before we start committing anything to glue. But it's amazing how often something looks great when you dry-fit it, only to get all screwy when the glue comes out! More soon. Thanks for checking in! Kev
  43. 1 point
    So, after attending a weekend workshop on figure painting at our local scale modelling club, I put some of what i learned to use... Cheers: Kent
  44. 1 point
    I've been cracking on with the engines and getting them into the nacelles so I can complete the piping and wiring. Once they're in I can start to look at the undercarriage assemblies. Oh the nacelles!!! Ejector pin alert!! The engines fitted into the nacelles really well and the remainder of the pipes and wiring fitted well although it's a little fiddly at the end. The hardest bit was getting the automatic fire extinguishers into place, next time I'll definitely fit the first before the engines go in. The interior of the nacelles is painted cockpit green then washed with a light brown wash with some gloss varnish in to mimic the film of oil that always clings around these enclosed spaces. Later I'll finish it off with some darker, sootier deposits on the inside to show the engines actually got used! As far as the undercarriage goes, I had a look through the instructions and did a few mock ups and realised that the undercarriage is either down and fixed or tucked away in its housing which was a dissappointment. As this model is to be made "in flight", I wanted to have the undercarriage fitted but retracted but that's not an option. Therefore, although I've built and painted all the assemblies, they're not going in On a better note I'm compensating by really going to town on the cockpit area. I've got to be careful because much of the reference material is for various variants, mainly the FB VI and I'm building an NFII so a lot of the cockpit controls present on the fB variants don't appear on the NFII I've built up the control panel area which is one part that differs between variants. The NFII had no bomb gear controls but did have separate assemblies for the early AI IV radar. The link wires between the separate boxes was of the horrid plastic kind so I took them off and replaced them with real wire ones The decals fit individually onto the clear plastic backing plate but they fit on the front which seems a bit daft. They also don't want to stay put as they're so small so a bit of crystal clear adhesive was needed After the instrument panel was painted, and weathered the dials fit in from behind. I then put a drop of gloss varnish on the face of each dial to make sure it stayed and also to give a lens effect. I painted the interior of the radar hood with a green nail varnish to try and reproduce the green iridescence from the CR tube at the base of it Finishing the nacelles next and more work on the cockpit. Thanks for looking
  45. 1 point
    Thanks for the comments fellas... Here are the little things. Nothing really fancy about this post but it may be helpful for some who plan on building the kit in the future. So I wouldn't say there is a lot of ejector marks but there are a few that need to be dealt with. Besides the intakes there are a few on the cockpit side walls. This goes for both sides... The intakes need some work. I wish I had better shots of this but it's difficult to photograph The instructions indicate to glue the intakes and engine bay doors on after the fuselage is together but it would be very difficult to fix the intakes that way. That and it's easier to get everything lined up before hand. After everything was glued and dried, I sanded the raised attachment points and used sufacer to fill the gaps. I use thinner and a q-tip to remove the surfacer but still needed a bit of sanding afterward. I painted the engine face with Mr. metal color Iron and Zinc Chromate #351. I really like the buffable Mr. Color metal paints. It's fairly basic but it doesn't look too bad once it's all done... I also added most of the PE stuff before putting the fuselage together, it's just easier to manipulate everything that way. The PE is a really nice touch and really makes a difference, not to mention it all fit well. One thing I didn't like was there wasn't a lot of attachment points one some of the panels, mainly on the engine bay doors and the exhaust. I'm not sure why they did it this way since they are not meant to be displayed open. The saving grace is the fit is fantastic which saves the raised detail from sanding. Before gluing the bay door, I added an attachment point which probably wasn't necessary but helped strengthen in join. I also sanded the little vent... Also did the same for the exhaust... Forgot to mention I thinned out this little vent too... I wanted to attach the ball after the fuselage was completely done so it would easier to paint. The only way I could come up with was to shave down the mounting pins so the ball would easily slid in. I had to shave the pins down a lot to make this work but after some test fitting it slides right in. The fit really tight here so I sanded down the post a bit. I wanted to be able to move the rotor blades without the risk of breaking the assembly. I learned this after breaking the assembly on my 1/48 KH AH-1Z. Don't forget the nose weight! It says 3g of ballast so I'm assuming they mean 3 grams. A penny weighs 2.5 grams so I used 2 of them to be safe. I can tell you it will definitely be a tail sitter if you don't add the weight. I'm hoping I put enough! The exhaust doesn't really look great so a metal tube does the trick. This is part of the little things that can really make a difference in my humble opinion... The gun is a bit lacking but you really only see the barrels for the most part. The barrels are hollow at the tip but I drilled them out a bit more. Very nice detail on the wings! They give you a choice for the tie downs to be shown in the up or down position. This will come in handy when I build my next one displayed on a ship. And finally everything all buttoned up... Everything came together perfectly and I only had to use filler in a few spots, I was really impressed with the fit! The instructions have you install this PE vent before gluing the fuselage but I found it easier to do afterward. I know these are boring updates but I'm hoping it will help others who want to build this kit. Not that most will need any help since this is a straight forward build and the fit is exceptional. Thanks for looking in! Bryan
  46. 1 point
    Jennings Heilig

    HGW Bf-109E-7/7B - Announced!

    Mosquito bomber!!
  47. 1 point
    EricF

    RF-8G Trumpeter & Fisher Model

    I am still preparing all the main parts of the air frame. The main challenge of this build will be on the junction between the Fisher Model and the Trumpeter half fuselages. Since each part having a landing gear, if the alignment is not perfect right now, the aircraft will have a twisted looking once on its legs and when we see the hight of the fin, it would be preferable to put attention on the preparation of the parts. But take a look on the pics ..... no comment on the adjustment. Well done Mr Fisher To reach this, I just put the fuselage under hot water for the resins recovering its original shape. But honestly it was really minor distortion. Then I sanded each half fuselage on the sand paper sheet over a glass table. To make sure to have a perfect symmetry, I will glue the fore and aft parts together first. I will recover two half fuselages like on a conventional kit afterwards.
  48. 1 point
    robertmro

    HK Lanc pilots seat

    For anyone who wants the correct size for the trim wheel this is a pretty close approximation.
  49. 1 point
    Gloucester Nige

    HK Lanc pilots seat

    I made this a couple of weeks back, I think it's pretty close? It should also be noted the floor mount is too high so if you correct the height of the armour plate it will hit the canopy. It is also too wide and too long. I did this from pictures, which is wrong inmost peoples opinions, but it looks far better than the kit supplied seat.. hell, the Airfix 1/72 seat is better!! Having done this I can also confirm the front of the seat is in the correct position in relation to the IP. I have used the kit supplied holes and moved the rear holes forward. Not that that matters much because I have now removed the seat floor platform and am replacing it wioth something a little more to scale.
  50. 1 point
    robertmro

    HK Lanc pilots seat

    Update It looks like camera matching to reference photos is going to work. Robert
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