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  1. first info seen on https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=105045&start=2475 based on their facebook, injection molded kit https://www.facebook.com/pg/ibgmodels/posts/?ref=page_internal first Polish made injection plastic model kit in 1/32 scale - first ever injection model of the legendary P.11c plane in this scale - researched and design based on repair documentation - full interior - full riveting - realistic corrugated sheet structure - realistic Merkury VS2 engine jan
    10 points
  2. spacewolf

    Fokker DR 1

    That was so much fun and went so quickly I moved on to the cowling. It is not bad but the cooling and prop shaft holes are wrong, the raised section where the cowl meets the flat face is only shown as a engraved line... so out with the trusty books.. gotta fix this ! Plugs were cut from sheet and glued in.. The openings carefully plotted and drilled out.. one of my plugs popped out and had to be redone... The outer cowl was cut from thin sheet and glued on, then sanded flush with the curve ... Primered and with light divots from a pin vise and small drill to represent the rivets.... A bit more work to do before I'm fully happy with it but really pleased with how it's coming along thus far ! Please feel free to chime in ... any advice or insights to the build are welcome !!
    8 points
  3. Happy to announce an accurately shaped and detailed 1/24 scale P-51D Mustang upper cowling is now available for your Airfix kits. This model replaces the Airfix's kit's inaccurately shaped upper cowling parts. The cowling is 3D-printed in gray resin. It was designed from original North American Aviation blueprints ensuring an accurate shape and detailing.
    6 points
  4. With a day at home I spent this morning removing parts from the support tree's which is tricky as the resin used to print these parts is pretty brittle so its a case of slowly but surely! A test fit of parts shows all location points/ etc on parts to fit to the tub are slightly over size and need trimming to fit. Here is the cockpit tub with seat, instrument panel and a few other bits and pieces test fitted. The control column is a pretty delicate part with a lot of support tree to remove. and as careful as I was I sill managed to break it Fortunately I still have the broken parts so some careful reconstruction required. Speaking of broken parts I found one of the fuselage halves had a massive crack in it coming from the wing root area. Here it is with a large amount of Tamiya extra thin applied. I'm thinking I need to be pretty careful with this old plastic as I dont want to have these numerous repairs going on and I've not even started removing the old internal cockpit location tabs etc. My plan is to get the new cockpit tub fit sorted between the fuselage halves before moving on to a re-scribe of the airframe. Thank you all for looking in on this one and hopefully I can do some justice to this old kit. Regards. Andy
    6 points
  5. An update on the Aeromarine build... Have been working on the piping for the fuel tanks. Some free styling was needed to squeeze everything beneath the cockpit construction, well most of it won't be visible anyways... Also been spending some time, actually a lot of time, finding appropriate fonts for the decals/texting for the Aeromarine. What I thought would be easy, turned out to be a bit of a nuisance. I've literally been trawling through font pages to find text's similar to the ones on the old Aeromarine photos... I had to give up on the 'KEY WEST - HAVANA' text and cleaned it up in photoshop instead. The decals have been scaling to get a proper fit. Rear fuslage. Front fuselage. Just need to seal off the decals with future... Thanks for looking in: Kent
    5 points
  6. This time model from WW II times, I generally avoid model aircraft with a propeller. I definitely prefer modern aviation. However, from time to time I make a model for someone to order. I present to you such a model F4U-1A Corsair model from the Tamiya skal scale 1:32 This is one of the best models I've built, all the elements fit together without a problem. Model made straight from the box with one addition from yahoo. I invite you to watch, I hope that the model looks good.
    4 points
  7. I've decided that the diorama would need a vehicle of some sort. So I've been through my stash to see if I had something that would be fitting this theme... The one i chose is a Opel Blitz truck, the small type from Revell (used to be a ICM kit) Although it's only 1/35 if think it will fit the overall scale of the pieces of the diorama. I was able to pick up some aftermarket kits for this from Dnepro model: A detailing set with some etch and a couple of resin doors. Resin wheels to swap out the rubber ones from the kit. And a resin canvas cover, The resin canvas was a little disappointing so, I've started adding some paper tissue to add some detail to it. Primed everything with german dark grey... The wooden parts have had the 'wood' treatment (wooden deck tan + oil paint for the grain. I will later use the 'hairspray' method to add some chipping of the finished paint layer... Well it's a nice little break from the Aeromarine project, while I'm waiting for some additional parts to arrive... Cheers: Kent
    4 points
  8. spacewolf

    Fokker DR 1

    Ok gang... it's update time !! Looking over the kit and test fitting... we have work to do. Initial impressions ?... on par with the 1/28 Revell kit in some area's.. better in some things. Fit is pretty good, no flash and minor seam lines... an honest builders kit. You could slap this together and it'll look like a DR 1... or you can go nuts on it and make it a stunner with some aftermarket and scratch work. I'm going for improved but not to the stunning standard Sandbagger is doing with his Fokkers !! The engine is an example of the issues with the kit.. it's not the Oberursel but rather the Clerget... this along with a few other things I've noted leads me to the conclusion they copied a reproduction aircraft rather than doing the research to get it right. I've ordered the replacement engine but figgured I'd put together the kit engine just to see how it goes together. There is hardly any issues with the fit of the cylinders and almost no clean up needed.. I just brushed a bit of thin cement over the seam and it blended things very well. The cylinder heads are separate, well detailed and go in without problems. The push rods are nicely detailed and they give you 1 extra for each set.. needed in my case as I nipped off the bottom bit thinking it was not part of the pushrod... The parts go together rather quickly and with a bit of care you get a very nice engine.. The spark plugs fit into openings molded into the side of the cylinders and look very good to my eye.. A splash of Vallejo chrome silver... A wash of black and some white for the spark plugs and one has a very nice engine. No extra detailing, straight OOB. With some work and TLC this would be a jewel for any scratch build using this engine.
    4 points
  9. Dandiego

    F2H-3/4 Big Banjo

    Been a while but progress continues, I have begun scribing, not my favorite thing to do. An exhaust port on the fuselage. Scribing the nose cone. Also I have glued the windscreen on and added putty. Dan
    4 points
  10. discus

    P-40N Eduard 1/32

    Hello Here is my last built: Hasegawa P-40N reboxed byEduard. Nice kit. Easy built I used guns from Masters and tried the eduard Look dashboard. Markings are a bit of what if as I screwed up the decal sheet with fat spills from cooking.... stupid... Anyway, with some leftover from previous kits I managed to figure something convincing. (or so I think)
    3 points
  11. Progress has been slow but productive. I finally figured out a path to the weathering for the war weary tail. Using Oils (burnt sienna, burnt umber, cadmium red, ivory black) a black and red brown wash, and Tamiya smoke. I re drilled the rivets and plugged them with a small piece of lead as noted in prior postings. After I sealed the base, post initial weathering, I went back with a bead tool to shape the lead plug. While I am sure there is a better way to do this, my initial push in to this lead down this path. In the end the initial shaping with the bead tool doesn't look too bad. My only complaint would be that the newly created rivet looks a little big compared to the washer. This picture shows the first lead plugs being shaped compared to the others that have yet to be shaped. Once shaped it will expose the lead color of the rivet making it easier to detail after a little clean up. Right side complete prior to detail and clean up. left side complete prior to detail and clean up. There is much still to do here. lots of clean up and detail. The aft section, past the tail hook, needs to be done up with rivets. Maybe I can figure a way to make the rivet smaller compared to the washer. In the end it will be blended with pastels to make sure its blended and given a much more flat look. Aft Section....The pressure of the beading tool spit the seem again...(sigh)
    3 points
  12. I think this might be a little esoteric, even for us! However, I'll let you in on a secret: we'll be starting work on a book featuring Kent's two Arado builds soon. Kev
    3 points
  13. A little detailing on the refueling probe and fairing.
    3 points
  14. Dandiego

    F2H-3/4 Big Banjo

    Just a little bit more. I realized that the interface between the vertical tail and rudder was not perpendicular. So I added a shim and glued it onto the trailing edge of the tail. I also built up the base of the rudder to a more substantial base. I have been working on the instrument cowl. Very hard to get a good look at what this area looks like. Here is my best guess. Unpainted and with a coat of flat black. Later, Dan
    3 points
  15. I've been wanting to build this one for some time now but when I saw Model Monkey had been working on 3-D printed cockpit and tail plane update sets I decided it was time take the plunge and dust this kit down. When my update parts arrived I have to say I was super happy with the quality of these 3-D printed parts far far better than any I had seen before. I have always wanted to build a RCAF coastal command machine with a full complement of rockets so I also ordered the Aviaeology "Canadians in Coastal Command # 1 "decal set as well. Very impressed with the packaging from Model Monkey, everything carefully bubble wrapped and in perfect condition on reaching me. So first things first I will carefully remove the cockpit tub from its printing blocks and check the fit between the fuselage halves. As you can see, the quality and detail of the 3-D printed part is pretty flawless but needs some careful work to remove the tree from the main part. So with a quite day at home planned I'm looking foward to start breathing some new life in to this old kit! Regards. Andy
    2 points
  16. Good evening everyone, I have joined recently, and browsed through so many inspirational builds. An Italeri Mirage IIIE/R is on the bench, and I'm in the process of doing some research, detailing and corrections for a SAAF Mirage IIIEZ. The Martin-Baker Mk.BRM4 ejection seat was actually done almost two years ago, and the kit seat was used as a basis for this. The two boxes on either side of the bulkhead were removed. The instrument panel is too round at the top, as well as the radar screen should be flat, and not have the little dome on the surface. The instrument cowl has also been stripped of detail, to replace with the correct goodies. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/8389/wgoOys.jpg The exhaust nozzle was quite tricky. It was stripped of the inside details, and a soldering iron was used to melt the rectangular recesses on the outside of the petals. Styrene rods and plastic card was used to replace the inside detail. Another issue, is the vertical panel line in front of the intakes, which needs to be filled and rescribed. The intakes also seem to be a little bit too long, but i'll investigate this thoroughly before I start chopping away. Cheers!
    2 points
  17. Hello, I've finally finished this one.... As in title - this is P-400 Airacobra "Airacutie" by Special Hobby , reboxed by Revell. Model isn't good, I'm sure that Kittyhawk one is much better but it was on sale so I bought it Basically it's OOB but there are seatbelts from Eduard and guns from brass pipes. Lady on wing is from Masterbox Pinup set. Whole model is painted with Mr.Hobby range and weathered with MIG,Tamiya and AMMO products. It has very shallow panel lines so wash didn't go well. I found a topic about Airacutie on this forum so I know that this particular P-400 had it's gear covers dismounted. After finishing I found that left cockpit door on real P-400 was permanently blocked. Another mistake is supposedly wrong cockpit color but I have no chance to correct it now. Anyway , hope you'll like it
    2 points
  18. Dragon's future release: DRA05114.........1/35 Sikorsky SH3H Seaking
    2 points
  19. Every so often I need a break from planes, and seeing that Fletcher destroyers have always been a favorite of mine, Revell's kit was a great distraction. Now if they would only make a square bridge fletcher! This is the platinum version of the kit with added photoetch that really helps improve the original. I also added some scratch building and shapeways items to create the USS Jenkins early in the war. The primary issue with the Revell kit is that it limits you out of the box to building either the Fletcher or Radford as they looked leaving the shipbuilders. Once they got to the Pacific they had already been modified. Additionally, the decals the kit gives you for the Chevalier can't be used because the armament that comes in the kit doesn't represent that ship. With the constant modifications that the class experienced throughout the war, it would be great to get a couple of extra sprues in the kit to model a range of ships and times. Anyway, all in all it was a great build and I'm happy with the outcome. I hope you enjoy it (big ships are a little hard to photograph!)
    2 points
  20. Just a slight offer of Help, I found this photo of a VMA-223 Bird just before launch. I wanted to point out the tip of the Refueling Probe, and this picture shows all the little details pretty well.
    2 points
  21. Another very busy week has provided only limited opportunities to make any progress on this project, so the planned work on the tub has given way to beginning painting various parts - yes, actual paint on the actual model - no more mule! Awful pictures I'm afraid. All will eventually receive a coat of gloss then some light dirtying up, to various degrees. Firstly, the gear legs are assembled and painted. The rudder has its basic scheme on The gear doors are painted inside and out (no pics of the main doors or the outsides, we've all seen blue paint). One inner, to illustrate... and I had a play with some BMF, which I really like using. Not sure how good it'll be for a metal finish bird as it has a noticable grain... some experimentation with micromesh and wire wool is in order, I think - ditto kitchen foil - as I'm currently intending learning curve subject #3 to be NMF. Still have to trim the edges of this one, but in the flesh, the polished scuff plates look great. The gear bay is done - except the reservoir in the right-hand side, which I need to paint yellow and I might change the colour of the (few) wires, just for some contrast. and finally the prop and spinner have received their basic scheme I'm quite pleased with how the spinner turned out - should look OK with a wash to bring out the detail. So, not the week I had planned, but progress nevertheless and the education continues! Tub next, definitely. Sepp
    2 points
  22. Got the email notification! Looks great!!
    2 points
  23. Not MG-FF or MG-151 in the "Emil" cockpit
    2 points
  24. Good! I hope it comes to fruition. A very fine volume it would make for sure.
    2 points
  25. chrish

    box scale Cessna 182

    test fitting wings and cowl to the model, wings will need some filler but, not as bad as it could be. Cowl will be a bit of a issue...I'll work on that.
    2 points
  26. Right. Those will be added to my collection along with the new P-51 volume. These days, with the tremendous interest in 1:32 WW1 aviation modeling, it may not be so esoteric any more. However, if it is, I wonder if the unique subject matter might have an appeal all of its own? Certainly the quality of the work and the beauty of the aircraft (subjective I know) makes me think that it could be a popular title in the catalog.
    2 points
  27. Really enjoying this incredible thread. Beautiful work! I this project should be another addition to the KLP Publications line up.
    2 points
  28. Our new kit the 'E' Type Bomb Trolley with the 12000lb 'Cookie' Blockbuster is now available to go with the HK/WNW Avro Lancaster Kit, it's a resin kit with all the master parts produced by 3D CAD and CNC machining, the research was all done at our local museum and extensive measuring of the Trolley and the 'Cookie' on site. The link to purchase is :- http://www.iconicair.com/12000lb/ Graham Iconicair Bomb Trolley and 12000lb Cookie 001 by uniquenarrowgauge, on Flickr
    2 points
  29. I spent a little time on the Harrier this week, I installed the auxillery intake doors on one side of the fuselage, the majority of photos that I've looked at shows Harriers sitting on the ground that aren't running have most of the auxillery doors closed with the exception of the top 3 on both sides of the canopy and the 4th down partially open. I have also seen some photos that I think were taken on a windy day where some of the lower doors were partially open on one side of the aircraft and not the other.
    2 points
  30. hello every body !!! it's finish !!!! yves
    2 points
  31. Thank you for the comments! To Damian... Thank you for the additional details regarding the antenna mast. It makes sense that there would be an airfoil shape instead of the square cross-section represented by the kit part. I'll see what I can do about that! And the absence of the external bulge on the main gear doors should be correctable. I''ll have to refer to the kit parts to confirm. To Kais... Thank you for the comment about the canopy. Based on my understanding of Airfixer's comments on my G-10 build, the overlap between the rear edge of the canopy and the fuselage was a feature of the early Galland hood that were retrofitted to existing 109G airframes. And not a feature of the later G-10 and K-4 models? I was not planning on trying to replicate this overlap. June is a very busy month for me, fishing and family-wise so my work on Weisse 8 and the Corsair will be limited. I DID get my camera situation resolved however. I just received a replacement for the balky Canon S100... This Canon Powershot S110 was purchased used from EBay for less than $100. A preliminary test was conducted to see if the focusing and exposure compensation features were working correctly. The camera seems to work a-ok. As you can see, I've started to clean up the Henri Daehne resin spinner.
    2 points
  32. spacewolf

    Fokker DR 1

    First thing I decided to do was jump into painting woodgrain.. I've seem peoples work, read about how to do it so with half a clue I sprayed a few parts with deck tan.. I had gotten oils for another project so I broke out the Burnt Umber and a stiff brush... This was so easy it almost scared me... So with things off to this kind of start I'm feeling good about the build so far... tune in next week to see what happens from here...
    2 points
  33. Hi again friends The moving parts of the wings and tail are ready: Add some details of engine up-cover and lower part of the fuselage-wings: Also re-worked the prop: Aaand we have a Mercedes logo Cheers friends
    2 points
  34. So, after attending a weekend workshop on figure painting at our local scale modelling club, I put some of what i learned to use... Cheers: Kent
    2 points
  35. The exhaust and the cans have been a learning curve for me. I can not emphasize enough how much I have learned while making this model. My tool and product purchases have also been undergoing a considerable increase. All equaling a joy for the hobby as never before. I do want very much to make clear that I appreciate the many people, all over the world, that have have offered advice and knowledge both publicly and through PM's. Below is an example of the general reference I have been using for inside exhaust coloring. My book from Reid Air, The Modern Phantom Guide, has been providing and enormous amount of detail. Below is the Phantom GT Resin kit that I have spent the last week detailing, messing up, starting over and having another go. In the references the green goes from a darker green to lighter as the distance from the burner increases. This picture tries to capture that variation. It was lots of patience during the dry brush process. The detail in this resin product is very well done. A light black/green wash will fill in the secondary air holes. I did it a small section with black only and the contrast didn't appeal to the eye. A bit of dry brushing to the cans and some pastels will finalize this effort.
    2 points
  36. Thanks Kev Now lets detailing the lower part of the engine: Also gear-bays detailing - imitation of leather covers for protection from dust and dirt: Add some missing rivets of the upper part of the wings: And the instrumental panel from Yaho is awesome : Cheers guys
    2 points
  37. I've been 'hunting' for some fitting figures for the 1920's theme for quite a while now. To me It's important to get the right figures for my builds, almost as important as the kit itself. I've decided to use some of Copper State Models very nice RFC pilot's for the flying crew. The standing pilot is OOB, but I've done some modifications to the sitting pilot. I think they correspond OK with these guy's... But the passengers, were a tough one. There's a lot of WW2 civilian figures around, in 1/35 scale. I probably would have been able to live with the size issue, but I imagine it would have been a massive undertaking, converting them into 1920's flapper's and the like. Anyway I finally caught a break when I came across these Preiser train figures: They are almost perfect for the Aeromarine build, perhaps a little on the 'old' side, but nothing that is easily 'fixed'. And they are 1/32 scale! The sprues in white styrene, just like the good old 'multipose' figures from Airfix. There's even a guy with a 'boater' hat. It's almost too good to be true, many of the figures are fitting the seats right away and they are even looking out the window! The standing 'conductor' is almost an exact match to the guy in the middle of this photo... Sorry about the excitement, but I just had to share this amazing find with you! Cheers: Kent
    2 points
  38. Dandiego

    F2H-3/4 Big Banjo

    A bit of a break, but here is a little more progress. I have cut back the fuselage behind the cockpit to accommodate an equipment shelf. I then added a piece of plastic to hold the equipment in this area. Test fit of the windscreen. Some putty work to smooth out the intakes. Thats all, Dan
    2 points
  39. I decided to work on the wings a little bit for a change of scenery, I wanted to remove the leading edge strakes/wing fences I am replacing them with .020 aluminum(I wanted metal for handling strength) I took a razor saw and cut right up against the side of the fences this way I could keep the same line to the wing where the original fences are located. I slipped the aluminum into the slots and traced the fences onto the metal blanks, pulled them out cut them out, piece a cake, right ??? wrong for some stupid reason something told me to look at a photo, sure enough Hobby Boss made the fences the wrong shape...so I made about 8 different ones until I was happy with the shape...I took my sprue cutters and remove as much of the molded fences as I could and then sanded the leading edges out. The really good thing about removing the fence is that you can scrape and sand the entire leading egdes with no obstructions(which needs to be done due to the lack of radius on the kit's leading edges).
    2 points
  40. By the way , yours first Pegasus stage , have 23 blade !!!
    2 points
  41. Hello everyone, With Wingnut Wings releasing a very fine Gotha G.I bomber, I decided to change up and do a different scratch build. I've still got some time left in the GB and I'm always looking to build something unique. Here is my new project, the Lloyd 40.08 Triplane Bomber, and a few pictures I've gathered from the internet.... It's big and ugly....I love it! Many Lloyd aircraft used plywood covered wings, 40.08 was one of them. Hopefully this will make the wings easier to reproduce. I will also have to make an Austro-Daimler V8 engine. Much fun ahead. Thanks for looking in, Mark
    1 point
  42. That cockpit is looking mighty fine. Beautiful work. U got my vote. Oliver
    1 point
  43. Wow! Great looking submarine! I'm glad you have found some piece of motivation. You do inspire me... Just keep it flowing! Juraj
    1 point
  44. A giant leap forward with the Aeromarine. After painting the fuselage with several thin layers of white and sealing it off with future, it was time to start the masking process.. I decided not to use a complete black paint, rather a rubber like tone. The bottom of the hull. Masking for a second time for the windows. Finally the tape is off. It's beginning to look like an Aeromarine... Cheers: Kent
    1 point
  45. Made some rear view mirrors and pull handles today...
    1 point
  46. A little update on the build, the hull/fuselage has finally come together... Trying to conceal any evidence of the lengthening 'surgery' of the hull... To be able to close this part of the build, is a major step forward... Cheers: Kent
    1 point
  47. Well Flappers or not, next up are the dreaded wicker chairs and roller blinds.... Cheers: Kent
    1 point
  48. The last couple of days I've been working on the interior wood. The task is to imitate the mahogany interior panels... I haven't done wood grain on a larger scale before. I had the idea of using Radu's stencils to give the large interior surfaces a basic wooden structure with acrylics. When dry, I continued with three different shades of oil colors... With this technique it does not take long before all the interior walls had become 'wooden'. The famous blue carpets of the Aeromarine's was done using several blue grey 'mixtures'. Masking tape is off... I think it resembles a wooden 'cigar box' a bit, but I'm quite happy with the result. Cheers: Kent
    1 point
  49. Thank you Shawn. I'm sorry, but I got carried away working on the vacuum formed superstructure... Plug is sanded and polished, ready for the Vacuum forming... Rear part with the cockpit. Forward part. 1mm thick styrene sheet. Cutout of the two parts... Fitting... Can't believe it went that well with the superstructure, no test runs just two vac forms, cutting, sanding and it fits. I guess it's all of the trial and error of the Arado V6 build I'm benefitting from now... But this was very fun doing it and it's a huge milestone in my head. I think there's only critical part of the conversion remaining, the wings. Thanks for looking in: Kent
    1 point
  50. Spending a lot of time getting the hull halves up to an acceptable finish, but they are slowly coming together. I had to move the two triangular windows since they were too close to the wing, 'someone had run off with the measurements'... The sliding panels for the openings of the rear passenger cabin. I've been using some of the leftover parts from the kit to close some of the gaps of the hull. Some necessary extras from RB Productions. British terminals and some honeycomb mesh for the Liberty engine radiators. I've also invested in some tools and wood grain stencils, they may come in handy... Cheers: Kent
    1 point
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