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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/24/2019 in all areas

  1. 12 points
    Cheers everybody, it's bee a while since I finished my big Prowler - buying a new background for my photo booth was a good opportunity to finally take some photos of the finished model. For those who haven't followed the build, here's the link to the WIP thread: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/57040-how-to-destroy-an-expensive-kit-with-just-a-few-cuts-or-prowler33/ Photo quality is not ideal, I've been playing around with the photo settings but I am obviously not a good photographer... Anyway, comments, questions and critique are welcome as usual. "Beaker" waiting for the rest of the crew to board the aircraft.
  2. 9 points
    I've been 'hunting' for some fitting figures for the 1920's theme for quite a while now. To me It's important to get the right figures for my builds, almost as important as the kit itself. I've decided to use some of Copper State Models very nice RFC pilot's for the flying crew. The standing pilot is OOB, but I've done some modifications to the sitting pilot. I think they correspond OK with these guy's... But the passengers, were a tough one. There's a lot of WW2 civilian figures around, in 1/35 scale. I probably would have been able to live with the size issue, but I imagine it would have been a massive undertaking, converting them into 1920's flapper's and the like. Anyway I finally caught a break when I came across these Preiser train figures: They are almost perfect for the Aeromarine build, perhaps a little on the 'old' side, but nothing that is easily 'fixed'. And they are 1/32 scale! The sprues in white styrene, just like the good old 'multipose' figures from Airfix. There's even a guy with a 'boater' hat. It's almost too good to be true, many of the figures are fitting the seats right away and they are even looking out the window! The standing 'conductor' is almost an exact match to the guy in the middle of this photo... Sorry about the excitement, but I just had to share this amazing find with you! Cheers: Kent
  3. 6 points
    Some progress
  4. 6 points

    Tamiya 1/32 P-38 lightning????

    Richard Bong you say? While a challenge, the 1/32 Trumpeter kit can still look pretty good.... Cheers, Chuck
  5. 5 points
    Hi guys, I finally got around to taking some better pics of this model, which I completed earlier in the year. Chuck, big thanks for nudging me on the pics Thx for looking, Marcel
  6. 5 points
    Announcing “Building the Revell P-51D-5NA Mustang in 1/32 Scale”! I’m pleased to announced that work has begun on our next title in the Build Guide Series! Entitled Building the Revell P-51D-5NA Mustang in 1/32 Scale, it’s written by Jan Gabauer, and as the title suggests, it features the new-tool Revell 1/32 scale P-51D Mustang. Jan guides you through building and painting the kit, using a small selection of aftermarket parts to enhance the build. Jan finishes the model as “Hurry Home Honey”, flown by Pete Peterson of the 357th Fighter Group, using a combination of the kit decals and an aftermarket set from Zoukei-Mura. Stay tuned for more details about the book as they come to hand, including a release date! Kev
  7. 5 points
    This is an interesting read. https://www.airfix.com/uk-en/news/workbench/hellcat-exclusives-for-centenary-edition My (first) Hellcat is on pre-order with Hannants for the 10% discount.
  8. 5 points
    After finding out that John has just retired his vac mould tool for the lower floor and completely re-vamped his G-6 set I ordered 3 new resin parts from the new set to try and help with this build. Very happy with what I recieved. and the old vac floor Very heavy panel lines so this is now in the bin now I have the new resin parts. However the new floor needs a little work for it to fit as I was quite a way in to the cockpit build before this update was released. Also I need the foward wing spar in place as a Fw-190 will be sitting above. The new resin lower nose piece to replace the clear kit is really good but once again I need to cut this to fit my build as I am to far on to use it as is but still a usefull part for e on my build. Also made a start on the engine nacelles as I was feeling the need to make a mess and cut and build some nice big chunky parts! Its only three parts but needed lots of time due to trim, test fit, hot water, adjust. hot water, adjust ........... and took quite some time to get to this point. and once taked together with cyno I added epoxy resin internally to give strength to the assembly to stop it falling apart. and a quick test fit of the assembly to the wing. Minimal filling required on the main joint and ery happy with progress today, Port side nacelle next as well as cutting the foward cockpit floor to fit Regards. Andy
  9. 5 points
    My messy paint booth offers the perfect background for the requested photos - there are quite a few things to give you an idea of the size of the beast. I am currently running test prints of the sponsons on my Photon but I am not happy at all with the results. I may have to find another solution to print them...
  10. 4 points

    The Blue Max Pfalz D.IIIa WNW

    Hi everyone, I burned through this build because I found myself happily casting aside all of the historical chains and other things that bind us into extra hours of our hobby. Instead of taking super crisp hyper detail shots, I decided to put the bird to a color background in a series of pictures. I kept less than 1 in 3 pictures because I'm finding it very difficult to take acceptable photos lately. I hope you'll forgive my caprice and my lack of photographic talent and enjoy the pictures: Thank you for looking! Gaz
  11. 4 points
    Hi DonH and 1to1scale, defeat is not what I am risking anymore I think. After having completed the assembly of the fuselage I think that most other things will be easier. Especially now that I have a solution for the landing gear see below. First I still had to mount the foldable wings. I already knew that I would have to cut the lip on the outside wing part of the hinge, but after glueing the wing halves together I concluded that the lip is also too thick to fit inside the outer wing: not so nice Revell.... after having sanded the lip thinner, it fit into the slot: having glued the parts together, top and bottom seam are very ok: both wings attached, on with the moving surfaces! the hinge cover, slats and flap covers fit quite well looking from above: but the slats will make far too large an angle if you mount them without gaps. So I had to leave a rather large gap to make the angle work. this will need to be filled: though I will mount the flaps after painting, I clamped them temporarily to see how it goes together. at least this fits! Another possible headache was resolved with the modification of the landing gear. Below to the right the original pieces, they require a lot of cleaning up. However the hinge mechanism could be separated quite easily in order to put them in the fully extended position, assembled to the left bottom. Also the nose landing gear can be easily extended:
  12. 4 points

    Airfix 1/24 Hellcat

    Here you go
  13. 4 points

    New Modelling Den

    I'm more or less ready to go now. Finished the windows, got all the workbenches in place, everything insulated and panelled. So, nothing will happen until 3rd June, when it will fill up so quickly it'll make the big bang look slow. Next photo should see the workbench populated with units, tools, airbrushes, etc, and the walls won't be visible because of the kits piled in front of them. I will need to find a permanent home for the pair of airbrush booths - I'm tempted to extend the corner table out to the right, up against the wall, and have them tucked into that corner? I'll get everything in and see how it works out. And I still need to work out where that telly will go. But I do have a proper office chair, so the plastic chair will go back on garden duty.
  14. 4 points
    Dean, I think maybe you could be ok going down the "ugly" route as that's a matter of opinion. But "useless" ?? Some of your examples are inter war year aircraft that at the time of introduction were state of the art. Of course come WW2 they were found to be useless as they were obsolete. As far as the Gannet is concerned, (I'm not a fan of it personally) I'll agree pretty ugly but it was function before form. Any aircraft that can fulfill the anti-ship/submarine role and also AEW and ECM from the early 50's until the Nimrod arrived can't be that bad. Must have been good as the Aussies and the German Navy bought it too. Anyway back to the B17 and watching pigs fly past the window................
  15. 4 points
    They could start a series of kits: 'Ugly, Useless British Warplanes' Kick off with a Fairey Battle then a Boulton-Paul Defiant maybe a Fairey Firefly a Blackburn Skua certainly a Blackburn Roc then a Fairey Fulmar, Can't ignore the Fairey Barracuda And of course, the Vickers Wellesley And I've not even mentioned the Fairey Gannet.....
  16. 4 points

    HAPPY BIRTHDAY Martinnfb et al

    Hey guys I am here, just not as often as I use to. Heading back to school this summer and as of now I have very little time for hobby. This trend will last for approximately two years. In the meanwhile I will try to stay in touch as much as possible. Thank You for checking in Christian. Cheers M.
  17. 4 points

    Dragon BF 110 D (Completed)

    Alright i have a big update today ive masked and painted the darker RLM 74, on the wings with pae and on the fuselage with blue tack. i was not really happy when i unmasked the rear section of the fuselage so i decided to wet sand it back down and free hand it. Im still not happy with it but i decided to go on. the next part was to apply the Montex mask. I think my set was a bit old as it had some shrinkage to it and had a really hard tome to get it off the backing paper in one piece (using tape over to capture all thee parts). overall im happy with the result. the next step is to pain the nose guns and install the nose so that i can apply the shark mouth mash and paint it, i must say im really nervous about that mask! tonigh i hit the "A" with some yellow and unmasked the last part. you can also se the touched up rear
  18. 3 points
    should be ready in July https://www.eduard.com/out/media/distributors/leaflet/leaflet2019-07cz.pdf jan
  19. 3 points

    Fokker pair 2

    Hi all, The undercarriage fairing assembly is basically built. Made from 0.8 mm and 1.0 mm thick plastic card, 1.2mm, 0.8 mm and 0.5 mm brass rod and tube. The wheels are hand made by 'Steve Robson' out in Australia. It's still to be finalized and painted etc. I'll also need to make the struts as the kit supplied items fit into the kit fairing and therefore are not long enough to attach to the angled support blocks on each side of the exposed axle box ends, Mike
  20. 3 points

    Make the others jealous

    Hello, Postman brought me this.... wtf?? ......... Ha ! That's more like it.
  21. 3 points
    This definitely looks more believable to me...
  22. 3 points
    The Fairy Firefly was neither useless or ugly... the Bolon Paul Defiant, also not ugly and effective as a nightfighter, so again not useless....
  23. 3 points

    AIMS Bf 109 G-6 'Graf Special'

    rearview mirror 01:44. and 02:38
  24. 3 points
    Today update!
  25. 3 points

    F/A-18A+ Flying Omar Splinter 08

    And now front well is ready for priming and painting: i've been also experimenting a bit some stuff for the future walkways: super thin and crisp, i like it ! and now I'll spend some time on my B&W project for a few days bye !
  26. 3 points

    F/A-18A+ Flying Omar Splinter 08

    Hello and thank you for all these kinds words, guys. The chipping process needs a bit of experimenting because it varies with different brands and on which undercoat they might be layed over. For that result i've been setting colors as they lay on a real Hornet's pic i saw, using AK Real Color paints but i also set some AK Real Color satin varnish between each layer to have a retarding barrier. This helped me go slowlyer from a color down to another, as i make sure to keep very thin color layers. Time is also a factor you need to evaluate with your paint combo by experimenting. normally, the more you wait, the more the chipping will be difficult to start. The start point must be reached slowly because there after, thing may go faster than wanted. I use hairspray that has been decanted and let sit in a jar for a day or two ( i keeps bubbles for some time ) and spray it through my airbrush. Brushes are also important, i used thin flat and sortened brushes, the shorter becoming the rougher. Last parameter: water quantity on the brush: you want to keep it minimal and be patient if you want fine chips, to much humidity would start everything too fast and large. Seems complicated, but experimenting gives results quite fast. It takes a few fails but then opens nice weathering tracks that I personnaly just start to enjoy ! from top to bottom of text this happened as such: -gloss black GX-2 Mr Color -KColor dark metal mix -satin coat -Hairspray -Yellow Zynchro -satin coat -Hairspray -overall lightened light ghost grey ( the first grey before overhaul, i guess from the pic i used )/ consoles painted dark grey and protected ( i think, not too sure to remember ) -satin coat -Hairspray -darker ghost grey and two mid panels done in ghost grey, airbrush variations and shadows ( story of anoverhaul or two ! the hell hole is also a patchwork of greys ) Throttle was eventually re-worked separately -black -alu -satin -hairspray -yellow zynch -satin -hairspray -black -chipping i did the chipping maybe 4-5 hours later It's more simple when imagining the whole layer cut and seen as a sandwich, like on the real one ! Then washes, brush painting, Anyz's knob decals etc here are the colors used for the Yellow ( modern ones are rather pale ) an example of floor ( pic from Nate Pendergrass ) this pic is only a few months old and you can notice various hints of grey on sidewalls or just left the lower grid etc. Nowaday's Hornet have had now a long life ! That detail help giving a ntaural look and less monopiece look to the tub, i think
  27. 2 points
    Eagle Driver

    For Scooter Lovers

    I stumped upon those two:
  28. 2 points
    This is representation of Erla-built Bf 109G-14 "Black 13" from15./JG5 at Kjevik, Norway in 1945. All A.M.U.R. Reaver sets, such as spinner & airscrew, cowling and oil cooler fairing with radiator mesh were used. The plane had late-war finish with several shades of RLM76 on lower surfaces and 75/82 on top.
  29. 2 points
    Could you be more specific?
  30. 2 points

    HGW Latest Releases !!!

    Based on Mr. Bobek posts on local forum it should be up on website within 2-3 weeks Ray. Hey Mikkel, it looks like Jan Bobek (HGW owner) hasn't been here for some time Im just trying to share all news which he is posting on local forum to keep us updated with all the new stuff he is doing so maybe worth to contact him directly via FB or web page contacts jan
  31. 2 points
    I think there is some truth in it. You only have to visit a model show and there are some people who mill around, desperately avoiding eye contact, plastic carrier bag in hand, with sensible coat and shoes and a packed lunch, who pop from stall to stall, offering completely uncalled for criticism, telling everybody who will listen that the 1944 Spitfire Mk. XVI did, in fact, have a slightly narrower cord propellor, and the wheel wells should be a lighter shade of green, and the tyre treads are wrong, before moving onto to his next victim. It's always a him. Always. Like me.
  32. 2 points

    F/A-18A+ Flying Omar Splinter 08

    hello I'm not used to that, but I hav a second project in progress. I've been collecting and documenting VFC-12's 08 Hornet because of its weathering, and some decals have been issued recently. When waiting for some parts for my twin B&W project, I couldnt resist starting that project, which will be rather slow, though. Aires cockpit in progress: Cokcpit has been painted with several layers of shades with hairspray between each one of them, then a wet brush chipped the worn areas. Thanks to Miro Medzihradsky for the negative film tip ! I'v been using Anyz' products for hoses, leg straps and knob decals on the consoles. Very good products. That etched stencil has been issued recently by Radu Brinzan. Great product for weathering. bye Fanch
  33. 2 points

    Intruder Cockpit in 32nd

    I may be offering my incomplete seat to a really good resin master. I have tinkered with this thing for over two years now. It needs a lot of small details added to the head box and rear rail area. I can't see to finish it correctly. My eyes are slowly deteriorating to the point I have given up on the small detail sets. I am having "issues" with the photos as well.
  34. 2 points
    Its a beautiful kit and so far its gone together great , with no fuss.I was going to do the FAA one but those photos of paper doll look superb.
  35. 2 points
    Excellent, Kent! Great find! Juraj
  36. 2 points
    OK...just for all of you guys who want something new in 32 scale... I'll write and beg for them to produce a Fairey Battle!
  37. 2 points

    HAPPY BIRTHDAY Martinnfb et al

    This thread contains posts from before he asked for his account to be removed. He has since rejoined using the same handle (since the old one, shown in this thread, is defunct). What you're seeing here is just his old, defunct handle, not the new, active one. Kev
  38. 2 points

    HAPPY BIRTHDAY Martinnfb et al

    He left, but has since returned. Kev
  39. 2 points
    Hi to all In this update I made a structural change to the model concerning the intakes opened I coated the fuselage with metal wire and colored the ventral panel with chrome-yellow. I fixed the Pitot tube of the Air Master with its adapter. I have highlighted all the details of the tail and the fuselage as well as the metal covered sub-wing tanks with advanced coating technique (MWP) I wrote the new rivets on the model with the 1/32 scale riveting machine and this is the final result: and now, the final result of this session: for more info & pics:http://www.adventurephotomodels.com Thanks for the attention George
  40. 2 points
    Spectacular! Nice save on the Gabreski cooling shutter, btw. Cheers, D.B.
  41. 2 points
    Well here's an update. The rear seatbelts are in place: Those are from HGW and were ment for the Arado Ar196 - I really like the printing but cutting them was a bit fiddly. For the pilot's seat the belts from eduard were used.. They're pre-cut but getting them in the buckles is fiddly as well. The hip belts will follow soon after my short vacation over the weekend!
  42. 2 points
    following! I'm just getting started back in the hobby as well! the last kit I built was a Revell 1/48 b17 back in high school.
  43. 2 points
    Am in a struggle right now trying to develop critical dimensions for the R2800. It is so jam packed with stuff, if I get something wrong, it will result in something not fitting. So, cylinder outer diameters, engine block cylinder base plane distance from centerline, location of intake and exhaust ports on the cylinder heads, distance between rocker arm covers, etc, etc, etc. You may wonder why I do not just duplicate my P-47 engine, but believe it or not it was chalk full of inaccuracies, all of which I intend to correct. The best thing to do here is model it digitally, but I am seriously hesitant to one, pay for the program software, and two, learn it. I can manual draft pretty well.... Stay tuned!
  44. 2 points

    Make the others jealous

    lets see what i can do with these
  45. 2 points

    Me-109 E-3-a Royal BG Air Force

    Continue with detailing the radio-part from interior: Also modify the rear gear and will used the resin wheel from eduard set: Put the metal barells of MG-17's: And start detailing the engine: Cheers guys
  46. 2 points
    Thanks for the positive comments! They really challenge me to not only move forward on these builds but inspire me to try and do better. I've finally gotten to the point where I could install the wires to the landing gear door actuators from the central hydraulic junction. To make this manageable, I cut the actuating struts from the doors and installed them first. I didn't think I could've managed the wiring with the doors in the way. I think this was a good decision as wiring was fiddly enough with the landing gear wells still separate from the wing bottom. The wheels wells have been given a flat coat and I've added some sponge chipping and enamel washes to add some color. The main wheel wells were the last of the four major interior components that needed to be completed (cockpit, engine and tail wheel well being the others). I think the build will move a little faster now.
  47. 2 points
    Small update: I've been playing with another new toy this week (namely, a Silhouette Cameo 3), turning the intended 2D camouflage pattern into 3D-friendly masks and seeing how it handles various masking media. Still requires some tweaking but getting there with the help of a Revel -D5, which is also serving as a paint mule as I experiment with pre-shading, mottling and generally learning how to paint with an airbrush. I'm impressed with the Cameo's capabilities - it handles the sharp corners on the ermine tails nicely, but the carrier sheet is waaaay to sticky out of the box - they really need to sort that out. More later!
  48. 2 points
    Exactly! What we need is more Bf 109's. And Fw 190's. Obviously.
  49. 2 points
    got some work done on the seams, all of them on the assembly so far have been dealt with: [ and on the bottom side of the fuselage, not too bad: and I have also assembled all the moving surfaces of the wings: then continued dry fitting some cockpit parts. the seat was just assembled to compare with the resin version from Aires: and as others have already found out, the canopy does not fit due to the seat sitting 2 mm too high: with the new seat I also need to do something, but the conflict is smaller: the new seat itself fits without any further adjustments: I added a Tamiya F-16 pilot in the seat, everything fits almost without any cutting or sanding:
  50. 2 points
    hi gents, indeed I am making good use of the fora so far, the trick here really is dry fitting to make sure that you are not going to be surprised when parts are glued. After all had dried I could finally mount the fuselage top and nose, this time with no stress in the plastic: around I just need to fill small gaps: the elevator connection is really sticking out from the fuselage too much, need to sand that down still: also at the cockpit things align pretty much ok: I read some things about the nose, it should have a constant radius in the side view, Revell has made a bit of a kink in it. With sanding sticks I have tried to make the radius more constant: before glueing the wings together I decided to add the outer wings an see how things fit: Also here is seems that the hinge mechanism is 2 mm too long, causing a gap: also the lid on the hinge does not fit without taking away material, the manual does not mention it: so out comes the cutters: now it starts to fit better, I need to take 2 mm off of the outside hinge lip:
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