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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 10 points
  2. Thanks gents. Happy to report that this is now finished! Thanks to all that followed along. Studio photos soon.
    10 points
  3. Thanks Guy I’ve finished the engine - minus plumbing, which I’ll do as it gets fixed in place on joining the fuselage. Again, you have to marvel at this, nearly, 50 year old kit. There aren’t many better engines that I’ve come across barring Tamiya & Wingnuts all these years on. So how you see it here is effectively how it comes out of the box. The only change I’ve made is to hollow out the air filter (it was moulded solid) and add a mesh to add some depth. Still some more weathering to go but I’ll do that in situ once the plumbing’s done. I’m going to have the lower panel in place so I won’t go overboard with detail on the base of the engine. I prefer this look as it keeps the overall shape of the aircraft at the front. Thanks, Guy ps I was going to replace the ignition wires but the plastic parts seemed pretty good to me - and they are separate, not moulded on like most kit engines I’ve come across.
    7 points
  4. The model which I received to finish. The model that was started and lay in the box for several years. The model is A-7E Trumpeter which was to be made in painting from version D - it was the decision of the person for whom I finished this model. So we have an E version that pretends version D. In my opinion, the Trumpeter model itself is not very demanding and it will be easy to fold. However, you need to pay attention to the dividing lines that are too shallow and need improvement.
    6 points
  5. FUSE PANEL ,RADIO ROOM HATCH AND CONTROL CABLES! Hi guys Hows it all going in the model world? Here we have the next installment of the radio room build for this B17G...as the the title states I managed to get 3 things completed since the last post....so starting with the fuse box here are some photos............ Quite straight forward really...a thickish piece of plastic was cut and manipulated into the fuse box!! It was then painted and cables added to it ....and here it is installed in it's rightful position! I then played around with the radio room hatch by adding the 4 escape/securing handles....basically I bent a sliver of aluminum from a cola can Then started the real fun and games! I never thought that adding the control cables would be such a pain!..I mean I put the cables into the nose section and the bomb bay without the blasted hassle I had this time.....it was all done by trial and error...starting over twice as I just couldn't get it to look right...I tried different gauges of electrical wire....I even tried using some fishing line!..the glue wouldn't set or I couldn't get the cables to tighten...but in the end I found some other small gauge electrical wire which wouldn't bend and made some guiders(for want of a better word) so that the cables were at equal distances to each other!.... Not sure if I know what I'm talking about!!....so here are the photos of the end result!! Oh .....I also sprayed the internal walls and placed the two window perspex on either side of the fuselage. So that's it for another week guys.........thanks a lot for looking in Later's Fozzy
    6 points
  6. 9th Hog finished. HGW wet transfers & seat belts Barracuda wheels Maketar mask All colours Mr.Paint/MRP
    5 points
  7. Within the next week, I think, pending any "life happens" events. I had hoped to be done much sooner than that but researching certain features has taken longer than expected. Research normally takes much longer than actual design, often complicated by references that sometimes do not agree as has happened with radio position, for example. Good news: the "test print" of the basic cockpit shape was completed a few days ago to check its fit in a Revell kit. It's a tight but good fit. I'm designing some of the canopy sill instruments now, tweaking the instrument panel a bit, and completing the pilot's seat which should be done this weekend. I think that 3D-printed throttles and similar control levers may be too thin in scale to survive the 3D-printing cleaning process, which can be a bit brutal on thin, long features. I may have to omit throttles from the model. I'll know more this weekend once I try to test print some.
    5 points
  8. Here are the main wheel wells painted and epoxied in the engine nacelles. The fit is really good. I need to add a coat of semi-gloss varnish and it will be time to focus on the pit again. very little of this will be seen once the gear doors are glued in place but I know its there. Cheers, David
    5 points
  9. Next up, the IP! I was going to use the Yahu panel, until I realized it is for the 335A model and is slightly different. Luckily, the Eduard one is pretty darn nice itself. Here is the two panels: The Eduard one is on the right. It is a little more pixelated, but isn't that bad at all when viewed without magnification. This will be my last update for a while as I am headed to AZ for some business, but I will be back!
    5 points
  10. Here is the rear wall: I added a pair of Airscale warning placards as I figured they would have some info for the field service personnel about the bang seat... And here is said seat: I adjusted one armrest, added some padding, and instead of the Eduard parts, added some lead foil on top of the box behind the headrest. Apparently, that held a drogue chute and the flaps were canvas or thin leather flaps. I also added foil over the armored headrest as it was covered in leather. It probably should be grey, as well as the seat pad but I wanted a little more color. Of course, the HGW belts covered up 90% of my work on the pad.
    5 points
  11. And all put together!: Eduard pit makes for a busy office! I also added some small discs under some of the dials to give a more 3D effect. I gotta say, I hate the adhesive on the back. It doesn't stick that well, except to your tweezers, and made it harder to use.
    4 points
  12. And here's some more detail shots to close out the show. Thanks to everyone who helped me make this the best model I've built to date! If you're intereested in the full WIP you can find it here T-38A Thunderbird
    4 points
  13. Wow that is one fine bench mess you've got goin' there Brian Always a good sign.
    4 points
  14. Yes, good point. Although I have seen a period photo with cushions in... Thanks Alain. Still undecided! I’ve just about finished the cockpit. A couple of odds and bobs to add. The HGW seat belts really bring it up a notch. Apart from that, I really haven’t added that much which I think is testament to the kit. Hair spray for the wear and tear. Generic placards from Airscale. Guy
    4 points
  15. Working on the new rudder/tail combination of the Curtiss F-5-L... Drawing of the rudder/tail transferred to 1 mm styrene sheet. Thin 'stringers' applied to both sides of the rudder. The outer skin is another styrene sheet 0.5 mm with 'ribs' made with a ballpoint pen from the inside... Rib tape made from 0,15 mm styrene strips with added stiching. Test fitting of the rudder/tail. Cheers: Kent
    4 points
  16. I've started my Tamiya A6M2b in my usual snail-like pace... Let's hope that this will be a project that will see completion! I know there are some minor things that need adressing to get this model more accurate. Luckily, the don't concern the shape of the model, but more details because of the workable undercarriage and details thet aren't quite correct for the timeframe and so on. Because I know that a couple of Tweak Lists were published about the A6M5 and A6M2 but couldn't find them I started this thread: Not only will Ryan Toews redo his tweak lists when his family-situation will allow it, this thread contains lots more invaluable info! Check it out! The box art shows the A6M2b of Lt. Saburo Shindo from Akagi of the 2nd wave of the Pearl Harbor attack: I feel particularly drawn to this scheme, though, the Zero of NAP1/C Tsuguo Matsuyama from Hiryu: Sadly, my first results have to be redone, since the double vertical attachment of compressed air bottles on the left fuselage side wasn't found on the A6M2 but rather on the A6M5...! Can it be seen anyway, on the finished model? Looks like the seat rather blocks any view into the aft fuselage! I think copying the single-bottle brackets also found in the Big-Ed set won't be too hard, so a single horizontal set-up should be possible! I already removed the massive plastic brackets Tamiya supplies the bottles with. Now to find out how the equipment on this shelf looked. Tamiya supplies us with something looking like a Sony CD-player and Eduard follows suit. That doesn't mean anything since Eduard states that it supplies extra details but doesn't supply corrections! Cheers, Erik.
    3 points
  17. Hi guys Just finished my Tamiya 1/32 F-4E as an HAF SRA Hope you like it. I will try and take better photos during the weekend. 20190313_203120 by periklis_sale, on Flickr 20190313_203122 by periklis_sale, on Flickr 20190313_203137 by periklis_sale, on Flickr 20190313_203125 by periklis_sale, on Flickr 20190313_203139 by periklis_sale, on Flickr
    3 points
  18. Bruce_Crosby

    Special Hobby V-1

    This is Special Hobby's 1/32 scale V-1. A lovely little kit, the usual lo-run moulding features, a bit of etch and a good decal sheet. All paint by Mission Models with a final wash of Flory Black Weathering fluid. Very fast and easy to build and paint. The rear end of the fuselage and engine was assembled and painted in one factory, the explosive section in another and the nose guidance system at a third, all painted where manufactured. Like most munitions, they would only come together as a complete unit prior to launch, being assembled and adjusted in the local bomb dump. Hence the mottle cammo on the back end, the linear colour demarcation on the explosive section and a freehand wavy colour separation on the nose. Some areas were treated to a very thin wash of Mission Models Tyre Black to change the RLM83 and 76 on some sections to emphasise the disparate part manufacturing.
    3 points
  19. it's time for update my new tools 20190313_215816 by mikheil Rochikashvili, on Flickr 20190313_215730 by mikheil Rochikashvili, on Flickr
    3 points
  20. Finally! Another step done! You probably thought I shelved it... Anyway, next up for me was the cockpit. Here is the pit: First, here is the kit part, cleaned of details in prep for the Eduard parts, with the Eduard PE floor in place. I added some plastic angle around the forward perimeter as it didn't want to stay flat: And here it is painted RLM66: PE rudder pedals added. The pedal supports were a beeyatch, I added a plastic rod inside the brackets and drilled a hole into the sidewalls for the rod to pass through. It made gluing them easier and much stronger support. I also added a small, but larger PE piece where the pedals attach to the support as I didn't thin 1 x .5 mm was enough!: Finally, with the Eduard panels and joystick added: An oxygen hose was added. I spent about an hour searching for some ribbed hose, found it, then when I looked at the ref's again, finally noted the ribbed hose in the pictures was added by the USAF when testing the Do 335. D'oh! The Germans just had smooth hose. So I used some car detail coolant hosing, with fine beads as fittings. From other direction:
    3 points
  21. Lots of big parts glued together with still more prep work. I have started on the exhaust base coats and color experimentation on a test plane. Gluing the body parts together has been brutal. I haven't seen such huge gaps in a long time. Basically where light and grey plastic meet there will be lots of body work. Low score on the fit and finish on this model. There will be another week or more making this right. And its just not gaps, its elevation as well. The little triangular NACA intake forward of the right side auxiliary air door has been filled (white triangle). And still more body work. The nose is fitting pretty well. Some minor sanding and maybe a bit of checking the panel line depth and it will be good. Its starting to look like a Phantom. Seeing it like this after many months feels pretty good. Fuel tank re-enforcement made from left over brass. It wasn't very straight and required a bit of work. Still not perfect but well on the way. Last of the rear deck wiring was completed. Now just to add some details, clamps, rivets and retainers. My first attempt at scribbing was less than desirable. I will have to do it again.......and probably again still..
    3 points
  22. Here is some detail I added to the gear bays. I finished these a few years ago and I don't really detail the bays that much anymore, either that or I just buy aftermarket. For me, it's just not worth all the extra effort when they are rarely seen. I will be adding more details once I'm done with most of the painting. Here is the finished tail along with a few little details I used Mr. Metal Color Iron to paint the fan. I really like the way this line of paints looks for certain parts.
    3 points
  23. A trip down memory lane.. I remember this kit from my childhood. I remember the blue color of the plastic.
    3 points
  24. Hi Tom, I totally agree, there’s something satisfying about these kits. I made the old Revell 1/28 Fokker Triplane and despite it being from 1958, had great fun making stuff for the cockpit etc. Just a quick one on the HGW belts - damn, these are so lovely: I've nearly finished the cockpit and engine. Will post photos shortly. Guy
    3 points
  25. Thanks, fellas! The 1/32 scale Bristol Beaufighter cockpit design is nearly complete. Some of what you see here will change. Need some help from you Beau experts. Reference photos of wartime and restored aircraft do not agree regarding the position of the RT.9D radio for early aircraft (BoB) nor the TR.5043 radio for later aircraft. Perhaps the position differed from aircraft to aircraft and over time. Any help confirming radio positions of the TR.9D radio and TR.5043 radio is hugely appreciated. Also, detailed reference photos of the pilot's seat cushion and heater box have eluded me.
    3 points
  26. Thanks Scott! I'll keep tabs on those sites to see if I can incorporate the metal exhausts on this build. I'm still feeling out this kit and don't really have a clear path forward, especially when it comes to the cockpit. It's a multi-step process with many, many small parts. Most of it is contained in the central cockpit assembly but there is also stuff that needs to be hung on the fuselage walls. It's hard to figure out what to paint, when to paint it and in what order. I have to account for any added details (which won't be too many) and the Barracuda data stencils. There are just so many of them and I don't want to put in myself in a position where I can't apply the decals properly. I selected the forward cockpit bulkhead to test my cockpit painting procedure. I'm going to lay down the base color, Interior Green, on bare plastic (no black base), highlight raised structure using a lightened Interior Green and pick out any details with a fine brush. I'll then give it a dark pastel wash. Since the bulkhead will be largely hidden and comprised of only two parts with no stenciling data, I thought it was a good place to start. I'll have to figure out weathering on the more accessible parts of the cockpit like the seat, foot pedals, etc.
    3 points
  27. Antenna all made up, glued, and painted. Decals are on...there’s only 14 total so this was the easiest decal session ever! Microsol applied. Off traveling for a few days. Good time to let it dry. Clear coat when I return then it’s time to foil the exhaust and add the intakes on top of the engine area. Also, found the perfect size brass tube to make the pitot out of at the LHS this morning.
    3 points
  28. Mark M

    Revell Bug

    well im about to build the epic revell 1/32 super bug, from reports on here and other forums, the build is not that good, there are concerns about the landing gear and the shape, well this will be nearly OOB as im worried about the landing gear legs been very flimsy, so im going to build her in flight, kindly i have a donated pilot and some nice decals (as the kits ones look a bit thick) so here we go.....
    2 points
  29. Dad gave me this kit when he was cleaning out his study. The fuselage was unfortunately wrecked, but thanks to Kagemusha, who was able to supply me a fuselage he didn't need. I'll be building the kit for my old man, not sure on colourscheme yet, probably build it with the wings folded too.
    2 points
  30. I started this NSAWC F-16A project several years ago but I lost interest, mostly because I couldn't find proper markings. Seeing Marcel's fantastic conversion really got my interest going on this again. So I broke down and bought a Silhouette Cameo so I could do the markings that I could never find. I put off buying one of these because I was worried it would be too technically difficult to figure out. Turns out to be one of the best things I've invested in for my modeling projects and it really isn't all the difficult to figure out. If I can do it, anyone can! This is probably going to be a quick build thread since I'm already at the paint stage so it's just a matter of cropping, uploading and posting the images. I really dig the F-16 and I especially like the NSAWC jets with the way the get so weathered. Not to mention it says "Marines" on top of the fuselage. Luckily, this is a later version of the F-16A called block 15 OCU. The good thing is that this particular version has a lot in common with the F-16C. Jake's excellent Viper books are an excellent resource and they really helped me figure this thing out. It took a lot of different parts to get here: Tamiya F-16C Thunderbirds version PWMP F-16A tail Blackbox F-16A cockpit set for Hasegawa (only a few parts) Eduard F-16A PE for F-16A Hasegawa Fightertown Big Bandit Charlie Hornets ( Logo) Two Bobs F/A-18 Vikings (ejection seat warning decals) Two Bobs F-16N Old School Adversaries ( Rescue arrows) Experts Choice F-16A ANG (Canopy jettison decals) AMUR Reaver USAF Chaff/Flare dispensers Crossdelta F-16 strengthening plates Jake Melampy's F-16 modern and early viper guides. Here is the AC I want to build: Since I started this awhile ago there are a few mistakes that I normally would have corrected as my skill improved but I'm 'mostly' happy with what I have so far. I started in the cockpit using a mix of aftermarket stuff to convert to the F-16A variant. The IP is the most visible difference so it took a few different parts to convert. Here is the main part painted up. The PE was a big help! Making it all fit was a little tricky but not all that bad in the grand scheme of things. Paint applied. This AC also has the F-16C HUD but the controller is a little different, at least from what I could tell from a couple of photos. This AC also has the F-16 style throttle and stick so I just used the ones that came with the kit. I'm not sure if this is correct. The F-16A doesn't have this box behind the seat but since this is a later model I could be wrong.
    2 points
  31. Looks like Meng has figured out how to make seamless turrets. https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10598710/30/1
    2 points
  32. 2 points
  33. MikeC

    Any Tamiya 1/32 rumours?

    Make that a B/PR IV kit and I'll be very happy. But happier still with either of these. An FR 18 option in the XIV would be even better. Don't want much, do I?
    2 points
  34. Just superb, Chek. And very helpful as well. Of interest is the dark brown colour, not noticeable on b&w prints. The general black-green pattern is rather consistent. Here's a pic of 41512 in Vietnam. The brown appears to be added as an afterthought Cheers, Quang
    2 points
  35. I dry fitted all the underside extra's. 20 mm guns (Me 109) Drop tanks or extra bombs (Me 262) Antenna (Me 262) Torpedo's (type might change later) The same antenna goes on top behind the canopy. A high tech feature on the Adler are the pannels.Held in place by electro magnets instead of screws.
    2 points
  36. After looking at the gallery of pics I thought it might be neat to see the progression of the major modification to get the profile to really look like a T-38. Here's how the fuselage came together. Also, I did make a mold of the nose before I finished it up so for those of you who expressed some interest let me know if you'd like a copy in the future.
    2 points
  37. Whoops, here's that wing shot I promised up above lol
    2 points
  38. Does that pilot come with a beer can to put in his hands?
    2 points
  39. Mark M

    Revell Bug

    jesus, this is fiddly, im glad its in flight this is way way too complex ive treated it like the old airfix bucc, glued one end clamp (add a little CA) then move down bit by bit
    2 points
  40. I love the old, classic Revell kits. Getting out some popcorn and eagerly awaiting your next post.
    2 points
  41. I just spoke with my buddy Alfonso Rodriguez about this. He know as much about this as anyone about Corsairs with the exception of Dana Bell. He mentioned 740 had a replacement wing from an older Corsair, possibly a birdcage with the old blue gray/gray scheme. He said Fundecals has the marking right. He also mentioned the US national insignias were sating and had more of a sheen than the rest of the aircraft. If you can get a copy of "Swashbucklers and Black Sheep," I shows how truly filthy these things were in the field, often not replicated in some builds. Check out some of the armor weathering on www.missing-lynx under "Constructive Comments" to see some weathering techniques that would work great on a Solomon Islands Corsair! DDG was only made my one company and it's OPP, but a near dead ringer (ironically) is Model Master Japanese Aircraft Carrier Type 1:)! 740 was an early -1a which likely has the various sub contractor parts in DDG, although I can't say what (seat?). I'll try and get Alfonso to chime in. Awesome work again pal!
    2 points
  42. Working on the Oberursel engine... Different stages of the engine detailing, spark plugs + scratched lifter arms. Engines are painted with 'oily steel' dark/black wash + 'fresh engine oil' - Exhaust pipes are painted with Alclad exhaust manifold. Cheers: Kent
    2 points
  43. Mark M

    Revell Bug

    just to give you an idea of the stand
    2 points
  44. Mark M

    Revell Bug

    OK so unlike most kits this starts with the engines. This kit worries me on page 1, how many kits instructions tell you to remove flash!! its a new kit FFS then they tell you to file down surfaces, now i may be wrong but if your making a kit, surely youd make it fit rather then ask the builder to file bits down? so moving on to my build, as mines going to be inflight, i need to insert some 4mm tubing into the jet pipes, so off comes the end of the rotor head the tube was then glued in place with epoxy, sadly i couldnt push them in further because it would foul the tail plane fixture. However the fit is so tight on the engine face and the exhaust and ive packed this with epoxy, it will never move
    2 points
  45. Thanks boys! Its growing on me now that I have implemented the execution of the full scheme. I wanted to try to replicate the way some German mottling looked, with consistently larger mottles in some areas and varying sized mottles in others. I didn't really love the look with the consistently sized mottles on the fuselage, but it was all part of the plan, so I forged on, hoping Id like it more when fully done. I broke out the airbrush again last night and finished off the RLM 80 mottles on the wings. The wings have a closer pattern to the real deal, with smaller and larger mottles mixed in on the wings to break up the pattern, and give it a bit more of a random, but still even look. I also removed the masking on the fuselage white stripe as well to see better how things looked. Im much happier overall with the scheme now: I've got most of the markings made in my Silhouette cutter program including the crosses (made those before I purchased the Maketar set) but will use most of the markings from the Maketar set, since it was designed for the model, and already sized correctly. Thanks to our own Mark (Mark31) I also now have the JG 27 decals too. Other than the crosses, unit markings, swords and oak leaves w/ victory marks, and swastikas, I still need to make the yellow 14, as well as the "Otto" for the port side cockpit fuselage. Im working from home today, so Im hoping I can get a start on those, and start adding the markings tomorrow. Cheers!
    2 points
  46. For the life of me I can't remember where I got the aftermarket seat from. The more I look at it, the more I want to repaint it or go with something different altogether. Some of these jets actually have the folding pitot tube although I can't say if my specific AC does. The rear deck is a bit different so I had to make a few changes. Removing the vent also removed the rivet detail. But positive rivet decals to the rescue! Onto the tail. This is probably the biggest conversion detail of the build since the base is different from the C along with the panels around it. I uses PMWP's tail for this which fits very well and only needed a little filler for minor gaps. It took a little bit of work to blend it in but nothing out of the ordinary. I don't show it in the photos but I added some posts for reinforcement where the base attaches to the fuselage. I didn't to this initially and ended up breaking it off while doing some painting. You shouldn't have to do this though unless you are a total disaster waiting to happen like me! One of the hard parts was attaching the kit tail to the base since there isn't a lot of glue surface and it's difficult to get if perfectly straight. I added some posts which helped a lot once I made sure the posts were straight. Blended the area using superglue so it would be easier to rescribe later. Before After first primer. Still needs a bit of finishing but I'm happy with it so far... Thanks for stopping by fellas! I'll finish some more photos tomorrow and post them... Bryan
    2 points
  47. I don't think anyone will be realy jealous.But it's my latest buy.40 Euros.
    2 points
  48. Thanks Erwin, So far, I certainly don’t have any complaints! Having cleaned up the parts for the engine, I can only say, what a great job Airfix have done here. Despite it being from the 70’s it puts many modern kits to shame. It will look good straight out of the box, or be a great start for the super detailer. I will add my usual generic detail. Again, as with the cockpit, I shall probably add the wiring and piping after she’s painted. Here’s how she looks in the flesh: And a few goodies arrived today in the post.. I’m leaning towards the standard European option on the masks? Thanks, Guy
    2 points
  49. Ok - finally got a little done yesterday. Focusing on putting in all the PE that needs priming and painting. Perhaps a bit hard to see, but a lot of work here. Also washed the engines. Still need some flat varnish and attachement of exhausts that I left off since I suppose they are best weathered alone. I can see from the other B-25 threads that the prop is no good, so that will be something more I need to get along with some master barrels. But I am still torn with regards to the gear legs... I think the legs seem sturdy, at least the main legs. Kent said he drilled it out (how far down ??) and I am summoning the courage to do that... I am not a big fan of those metal legs since I think they often look worse than the kit parts. Still thinking
    2 points
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