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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/03/2019 in all areas

  1. 12 points
    At the front on either side of the gear well are gun vent doors that are molded open. They should be closed and another molding flaw fixed. To close the gun vents, I trimmed the back of the vent doors, deepened the hinge with a scriber, then bent them flat. They also need to be shortened about 10% and the corners rounded before you install them. Two more areas fixed and the panel lines are now straight. There is a lot of trimming and dry fitting to get any of these pieces to fit together. Almost every join was modified in order to do so. Kind of a pain, but kind of fun too. With the styrene spacer used at the front of the windscreen, the join is now fairly flush and the top center piece fits perfectly. Before I fit and glue the gun doors closed, I need to install the guns and modify the parts so that I can install the gun barrels at the end of the build. Here I have cut the gun breaches back to fit my modifications and used minimal gun parts. The key is to just get an anchor point to slip the gun barrel into later. The openings at the front of the gun compartment were widened slightly and the base of each gun barrel was narrowed, so they now just slip in from the front with minimal effort. The gun door fit? Not so good. This kit is made for doors to always be opened with no parts made for closed doors. As a result, the fasteners are molded open and the closed fit is crappy. Time for some more “fun” I guess…. Later boys and thanks for your input. Cheers, Chuck
  2. 8 points

    20th Anniversary Monthly Raffles!

    JANUARY WINNER! Congratulations to Sir Spendalot, whose Eduard P-47 build was drawn from a hat (so to speak), to win the January Raffle prize: a Silver Wings Yak-9 kit, kindly donated by Silver Wings. Don't forget that we'll be repeating this raffle every month this year, so if you're thinking about starting a build thread soon, now you have some extra incentive! Kev
  3. 8 points

    RCAF SPITFIRES.. Mk XIVe..duel build.

    Quick update..went a bit nerdy in the cockpits..scratched up a few parts,bits and bobs kinda thing...ground down the kit side walls and went at it. Tried to make them look busy and spitfire ish..was all we were after. More later..thanks for following. Bill.
  4. 7 points
    Hi all, This is the first model I've completed in about two years, Wingnut Wings Hansa-Brandenburg W.12 Early. I Used Aviattic's WW1 German Naval Hex decals instead of the kit ones. Top wing crosses are masked and airbrushed after I had an incident with the decals, and had to scrap them.I hope to put this in a water diorama later on, just have to get the products and find the time to do it. All comments and critiques welcome, Thanks for looking, Cheer's, Jeff.
  5. 7 points
    Pastor John

    Revell Bf 109 G-10 Erla

    Hi everyone, apart from nav lights the bottom is all but done so I can now spin it over and start on the top. I am really enjoying finishing this build.
  6. 6 points
    My Corsair Number 8. F4U 1 Birdcage Bu.No. 02576 "Marine Dream" Lt.Ed Olander 1/32 Tamiya kit Barracuda wheels & cockpit decals Barracuda cowling decal HGW seat belts & wet transfers All colours MRP
  7. 6 points
    Hello, My name is Kimbra S. and I am the office manager for Eagle Editions. Since Jerry is badly "under the weather" he asked me to share the following information with fellow enthusiasts. In the mid 1990s Jerry and Judy traveled to Germany again this time to meet with Warnecke & Böhm the leading manufacturer of paint for the Luftwaffe in WW II. They met with the management staff including the CEO, head chemist etc. Lots of interesting information came from the meeting. Here are some condensed excerpts from Jerry's Fw 190 Dora book vol. 2 . " The German war industry was dramatically altered when Dr. Pomper, head of W&B received two patents in the late 1930s. these patents were for a new formula based on an artificial resin polymer based paint. This new formula had superior adhesion to aluminum and magnesium. As a result no primer was needed as with previous standard lacquer based paints. This helped in time, money and weight plus was fade resistant. Of course RLM 45 Red Oxide was still needed for fabric. The RLM was so pleased with this new formula they directed other paint companies to use this resin, trade marked IKORAL, and pay W&B a royalty."W&B was so pleased that J&J was interested(to say the least) that they searched their old files and gave J&J everything they had from the wartime. They explained that as the Russians were approaching Berlin W&B destroyed most of their files including the late war color data. The material given included copies of Dr. Pomper's patents and all the original RLM color recipes they had. These are published in Jerry's book. RLM 66; In the original recipes there are seven 66 formulas. This is because the RLM directed W&B to develop formulas that included fire and acid resistance qualities. As a result the color was slightly altered and can be seen in late war parts to have a slight dark green cast, very evident on an Me 262 rudder pedal we have in our collection. Paint companies were told to cut back production on RLM 02 as this new 66 would replace 02 on some parts like landing gear legs. Amazing to W&B was that no researcher had visited them prior to J&J. Hope this helps, and as Jerry says, cheers, Kimbra S.
  8. 6 points
    Yay - got the shapes sorted at last! New Meng kit - sorry - couldn't resist! Meanwhile... Iain
  9. 6 points

    Short Sunderland MkII

    Afternoon, folks Not a huge amount of progress of late due to work commitments, but I've gradually been adding the interior structure of the forward bow section. My measurements have only been approximate and don't look at this as an example of accuracy, I am just hoping to fill out the interior and make it representative of the real thing. First up has been the forward flooring and ladder up to the flightdeck: IMG_0759 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr The raised pierced flooring for the tapered front section is yet to be made - I'm trying to come up with a plan to avoid drilling hundreds of holes... I've added some detail to the areas of the sidewalls that will be visible: IMG_0765 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0766 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr The door on the rear bulkhead is, as far as I can tell, not present on the real aircraft and it's an open doorway, but as I'm not going to detailing the room behind I hope the Sunderland aficionados can forgive me..? It looks as if a fair bit will be visible through the forward door, so lots more detail to add in due course: IMG_0768 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Until next time, Tom
  10. 4 points

    My 1/48 armour builds

    I get a big kick out of these little 1/48 scale armour kits. They build quickly, are pretty well detailed and don't cost a fortune. I just wanted a to share what I've been up to lately. I hope you like them. Tamiya Sturmtiger with MP laser cut paper zimmerit. ( Almost done ) My latest little monster is the Krupp Protze almost at primer stage. A nice older one from Tamiya. I hope to have more to share soon. Thanks for looking in.
  11. 4 points

    Heinkel 111. Afrikakorps

    Hi all, This is my "long term" project.No rush,no stress. I just have to finish it by the end of the GB.
  12. 4 points
    This time the model with insignia of the Chinese Air Force, is my first in a lifetime model of a jet stationed in this country. The model is the Trumpeter Su-30MKK 1:32 scale, definitely the model is not the best model of this aircraft. This is Su-27UB with changed displays in the cabin. The model is easy to build and does not cause problems. Model made straight from the box.
  13. 4 points
    Shawn M

    BF-110G4, Dragon + AIMs = 2Z+AA

    I had big plans to get paint, etc on this weekend. after two major work issues I did not However, this is what I got done this past week: I found and re attached the 4th clamp O2 hoses run added another flashlight started the wiring and battery install, then finished it had to scab back on some material I lost when I got sloppy, but the height is correct again and I got all the 2 system on brake lines, Im calling it good enough
  14. 4 points

    Late War RLM usage of 81/82, etc.

    In this case I think you are only half way correct...yes, it just a model, but this thread was not really about modelling, it was a historical research topic that might as well have happend in a forum about old planes or chemistry. This is one of the main drivers, at least for me, to do modelling. While I do it I dive into history and learn mor about it. I just spent 120EUR combined on just two book...on a very narrow subject...in order to make a 15EUR kit look a bit more athentic (I hope). Researching history is a main aspect of the hobby, the time when kids built toys for most of us is nothing but sweet memory... cheers Uwe (56)
  15. 4 points
    evening folks still plugging away on the wheel bay... wanted to make the big spar attatchement seen here (the long black thing on the left with loads of bolts in it) scaled the drawing and started drilling lots of holes in a square tube of brass of the same size...(always drill any hole in anything first, before doing anything else...) ..put a template each side and ground away the waste... ..and added small lengths of wire & micro nuts... ..andf fitted to the spar... ..also made the gear retraction unit from a bit of perspex acrylic - filed & sanded to the shape with a disc added to the front face but allowing for the slide on gear legs to come later... ..finished all the ribs... ..and sprayed everything with Xtracolour zinc chromate - nothing is assembled yet, just placed for the photos ..thats it for now - back soon TTFN Peter
  16. 3 points

    Melbourne Model Expo question

    Tis that time of year when ones thought turn to just what they are going to lug to the annual model show. While I do oscillate between loving and hating taking kits to show I do want to support the hobby as much as I can but if I'm honest I just don't get any buzz or thrill from the competition. I just like to see full tables filled with models of all kinds. What is the consensus of just bringing models to show but not for competition? I cannot think that I have ever seen any at my local show. What's the procedure? Last year I brought quite a few kits in my pocket scale of 1/48 scale armour because I wanted to make a good show of a scale that traditionally has fewer entrants. We've all seen keen modellers just walk on by past a sparsely entered class. 'Nothing to see here just move along.' While attending the show I unintentionally got a bit of feed back that some folks thought I was trying to swamp the field to pick up a gong or two. ( I hadn't thought of that but I can see where the folks were coming from.) Soooooo, I am thinking of just bringing along some models for the shear kick of having more folks see my work and maybe raise the attention to one of the darker corners of the hobby. Ideas? thoughts?
  17. 3 points

    My finished models 2018

  18. 3 points

    Guess what? Another Lanc

    I am jus beginning to feel better from a cold. I added some walk ways to the rear as I saw them on a fuselage picture. I used Tamiya tape painted with testors enamels.
  19. 3 points

    Late War RLM usage of 81/82, etc.

    I'll have you know that i can do all the essential words needed in German. I can order a beer, bratwurst, frits mit mayo and swear. I didn't waste my 4 years being based in Germany honest lol
  20. 3 points
    Well it is time for "paint" over the fuselage and for that I use aluminium foil rubbed with metal sponge 0000 : Cheers guys
  21. 3 points
    Mr b

    1/32 Intruder A

    Thanks guys, got it some work done....we are approaching a double public holiday for the lunar new year and got some work done put the wing root and done the main gear wells...... the radome n the radar bulkhead....n the intakes....not going for the radar stuff....but if the radome can’t shut, might have to rethink this. filled in the airbreaks as my decided version did not have the holes sides are together.....but it’s a mess.....not very well fitting....might be due to me...............fitting the wings next and will be cleaning all the seams......n try and tackle the stuff as stated on the AOA sheet (thanks mark)...before that to build the outer wings.....first.... best regards brian
  22. 3 points
    Wolf Buddee

    My 1/48 armour builds

    Couldn't agree with you more Dan. Here's my 1/48 Tamiya King Tiger that I built the last time I went through a real dry spell. I think the only addition to the kit was the Cavalier Zimmerit. I hope you don't mind me posting pics on your thread? If so, let me know, I'll remove them. Cheers, Wolf
  23. 3 points
    Crikey, Bill! That cockpit is extraordinary! Kev
  24. 3 points

    1/32 WNW Albatros D.V Richthofen

    I finally got around to fitting the seat belts, the HGW belts are time consuming but worth it! After painting the buckles on fret, the belts were removed and installed....it was much easier to do this while they are still attached to the fret. I found it helpful to trim the ends of the belts before threading them in; medium weight super glue was used to secure. Once all the belts were finished the clasp ends were installed by first taping the belts down to the cutting mat and then super gluing the buckle in place. I went easy on the wash for the belts, I didn't want them too dirty. In the end I'm happy with the look, although the drape could be a little better. On to the pics! Red Baron by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Red Baron by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Red Baron by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Red Baron by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Red Baron by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Red Baron by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Ryan
  25. 3 points

    What's New - 2 February 2019

    Howdy folks, I've just published the latest What's New update. Enjoy! Kev
  26. 3 points

    Brazilian AF-1

    I am working for a independent filmmaker here in northern Michigan. He is using both miniatures and CGI together. Rather than render the several military vehicles needed for the scene we are working on digitally, he is having me build them and only paint them in light grey. The light grey is something like a blue screen that colors, markings and weathering can be superimposed on digitally. That way, one tank can be several. Here is how they look when I hand them over to Dan, the filmmaker.
  27. 2 points
    F`s are my favs

    F-117A | Nighthawk | 1:32

    Guys, i'm back! This time not with something in 1/48 or smaller. That thing... It's the Trumpeter kit, my second 1/32 scale model, and it's quite huge It's so ever slightly bigger than the F-15 in lenght and even in wingspan, which impressed me a bit. Alright, let's do it. I plan a rather slow and longer build. Some may know very well the quality and what's in the box, but i'm gonna make a thorough review these days whatsoever. Here is just a quick glimpse: And of course, i'll take advantage of the AFV Club's tinted canopy, cause i think it's absolutely necessary for a good looking F-117. I cannot tint such a huge canopy by myself and not leave any trace of dust, etc. In 1/48 or less - it's ok because the little imperfections are almost invisible, but this one is one, enormous and two, with perfectly flat straight sides. I'll also use the GTR Wheel set that i didn't use in my F-15E. The kit tires are from very hard rubber and quite small in size. I have the original dimensions of the plane's tires and did the quick measurements. The GTR tyres are perfect. Only the front tyre is a bit smaller in diameter so i might still use the kit's rubber tyre for the nose wheel. And on the other hand, i know that the F-117 had just about the same avionics as the F-18 and just about the same landing gear as the F-15, so that's the perfect moment to use the gorgeous GTR tyres and wheels. And finally, the extra PE screen for the FLIR and DLIR. This is obligatory as well, because the provisions for these sensors are huge. I did a little mistake though by getting the 4x6 screen mesh in believing that the holes are rombs. Yeah, they are rectangulars... i couldn't notice that on the photos and this is my firt time using such a PE screen. Nevertheless, i think i can place the screen at an angle so they can look as rombs. I plan to start from the landing gear and make everything moveable again, for "2 models in 1" - in a parked and in-flight mode. The canopy, the gear, all the control surfaces and the bomb bays will close/open. As for the airframe - i have no idea yeat, but i think it will be one of the early Nighthawks, something Desert Storm-related in a full stealth mode with all the lights and antennas retracted and without the two RCS enhancers on the sides. Quite weathered as well. I'm only looking for a pilot figure and if i cannot find any, i plan to get the F-16 resin figure+seat set by Aires. But i'll wait on that one yet. Nighthawk!
  28. 2 points
    On a serious note: Hey Vince - it's good to see you back. I'm truly glad and want you to know that the info you provide is greatly appreciated.
  29. 2 points
    A surviving proto :
  30. 2 points
    My good friends at B&W told me about these new colors when they gave me their secret files about 20 years ago. It basically had to do with the Luftwaffe wanting a more "socially acceptable" image. Swastika was to be replaced by a peace symbol. I have a couple of panels from a Me109K6 in my collection which show traces of these colors. You can see below a Messerschmitt painted with the revised RLM81 :
  31. 2 points
    The butt snapper is behind and in the middle of the shoulder straps on your resin seat.
  32. 2 points

    Late War RLM usage of 81/82, etc.

    My current FW190 project...81/82 coming from Gunze Mr.Color range, laqeur paints. It looks brown to me... ;-)
  33. 2 points
    Great show, Peter. Love the bottom detail of the upper two sets of ribs. Very nice returns, as well. Sincerely, Mark
  34. 2 points

    Tornado IDS

    small progress on this on made a start on the second electronic bay also made a few bigger pieces thats it for now Mark
  35. 2 points
    Vincent Radu's right. So, in the interests of board harmony, can we draw a line under our previous disagreement and move on? Padraic
  36. 2 points

    3D Printing

    Here are printed landing gears from a weird project that distracts me from my already ongoing builds. The "leg" is printed as one single part with the Anycubic Photon. The tires consist of two halves, created with a conventional FDM printer, which could be easily sanded when put on a Dremel. Cheers Alex
  37. 2 points
    Now that all the hard work has been done I primed the model and went over it with a fine toothed comb, fixing a few small flaws here and there and ensuring that the painting stage would be as hassle free as possible. I painted some areas with Alclad Duralumin and then used some masking fluid to simulate chipping over the airframe. I sprayed a heavy pre shade over the model with some patchy areas around places that would see a lot of wear and tear. This was followed by a thin coat of SMS Foliage Green, allowing most of the pre shade to still be seen. I then highlighted and mottled over the model using a lightened and thinned mixture of the base colour. A highly thinned mix of the original Foliage Green was then sprayed over the model to blend everything together. Some of the masking fluid removed to check how the effect looks. I used Tamiya white flexible tape to mask off the demarcation of the white tail. I then used the Tamiya masking tape that has plastic sheeting attached to it to protect the rest of the model and sprayed the white. The Boomerang is starting to look the part.
  38. 2 points

    Late War RLM usage of 81/82, etc.

    ...and just because one guy said that you are packing up? If those ar the other guys only aguments...well, just let him be. I am not a native english speaker either and when I hear something like that I always tell myself that my english (your english) is a thousend times better then their French or German... ;-) I would love to hear more from you on that paint subject. So hopefully you have saved your posts and maybe after having had some time to swallow down the anger you will restore them. BTW...one big advantage to not being only an engish speaker but in my case a German...I did some research on the correct US ARMY vehicle paint in WWII (I own a GMC truck) and I just rang Mr. Jürgen Kiroff in Fürth...who is also realy good in RLM colors, RAL colors, etc...to get some paint mixed up following the FS number I had, and what was meant to be 10min call ended up in a super educational 2h phone call...with lot's on insight into not only the color tones but more the recepies and the resources used to make paint in WWII ( "Kernesammlung", etc... ) cheers Uwe
  39. 2 points

    My 1/48 armour builds

    Great stuff Dan
  40. 2 points

    Calling on Tiger 1 experten!

    I love it when a great photo illustrates the tiny detail we seek. Happens way too rarely. Gaz
  41. 2 points

    My 1/48 armour builds

    Thank you gentlemen. I'm pleased as punch you like em. Scratchbuilder- Tamiya is the biggest supplier with just short of 100 kits of all kinds. Most of the German line up and many of the Allied forces as well plus figures and accessories. They bring out about 4-5 kits a year. Bronco, Hobby Boss, AFV Club and others have all tried a few kits, I just got a little ICM SdKfz 222 the other day. There are quite a few resin and Photo Etched says about if that's important and there are many little companies selling bits and bobs, Black Dog resin and Hauler are in the forefront. Nowhere as much stuff as in 1/35th or 1/72 scale but growing all the time. Plenty to keep you busy and interested. I like them as they are fast to build, nicely detailed out of the box but you can add what you like and most importantly fun. There is some amazing work being done by some wonderful craftsmen but the overall vibe of the scale is build for FUN and enjoy yourself. That's a spirit I can buy into. I would urge anyone to pick a Tamiya 1/48 kit they like and build, paint and weather just what's in the box. You might find that you like the change of pace, I know I have.
  42. 2 points

    P-38J Lightning - Revell 1/32

    I thinned down the inside of the top engine cowling, and drilled out all the screws around the edges. I also cut and glued some plastic stripes onto the areas were the cowling is fastened. I will drill those pieces too and try to match the cover. I realised that I need a stripe across the top and drill those holes too. I cut some plastic to cover the inside of the cooler. I haven't decided yet if I'll cut the movable rear cover. Håkan
  43. 2 points
    The first aircraft is done. Compare with the non reworked one
  44. 2 points
    Apologies for lack of photos earlier in the week - simply ran out of time... I'll do a separate review tomorrow - but, in the mean-time, some shots with the kit parts. The new brass inserts are direct copies of the inserts in the kit - albeit a tiny fraction smaller due to material shrinkage - nothing that's not easily fixed when fitting to the plastic outer sections: I have some doubts over the shape of the HobbyBoss kit leg - but still working through that one and have not had time to evaluate/compare properly. And with an Eduard 'B-17' wheel: Nose leg: Off to do some more Spitfire stickers - but hopefully will get a little more time on the Liberator wings later this weekend. Have fun! Iain
  45. 2 points
    Back to the Mosquito again... This time I have been working on Paragons beautiful resin undercarriage doors. In keeping with the rest of the model I have riveted them as well as slightly 'stressed' the skin. Here is the port nacelle inner door And here is the outer door just temporary hanging on the Paragon door hinges A couple of general shots to see how it all blends in. I am working on my photography...promise. Just messing with Depth of Field All I have to do now is run a couple of strips of Archer rivets inside the doors and add the rubber sealing strip along the bottom inside edge of each door....phew! Thanks for looking in as always Cheers Anthony
  46. 2 points

    The way we look at models ?

    We like pictures. Shoot all angles. The more the merrier. Altho super close ups rarely look good
  47. 2 points
    ribs coming along in the wheel well - each one hand made to fit the space given they are shallower than scale as the roof is lower.... ..just the last pair to go... TTFN Peter
  48. 2 points

    1/32 WnW Halberstadt CI.II (Late)

    Avittic decals added which layed down like a dream compared to the kit supplied set. Then started adding the rib tapes from Aviattic but with white decal film, labourious but worth it. Not added the upper tapes or the wing edge wrap over yet in white decal film so everything will neaten up. So far so good but just spend an hour at a time on this process as it does get a bit tedious. Work started on the engine detailing with the Taurus resin set, first time I've used this set and although supper fiddly well worth the effort. Really enjoying this build and starting to come together now. Regards. Andy
  49. 2 points
    evening folks Hi Mark - yes they are sort of 'T' shaped pipe things where a pipe goes straight through the little banjo fitting at the tip - the fixing holes are on the plans and I can see them in pics (maybe a bit smaller than these ...) Thanks Chuck -always value your sage advice I actually contacted Marvin at Model Motorcars as they make all sorts of bits for Pocher cars but the ones he had were either too big or too small - I was going to scribe the pattern on it as I have done that before, but then I noticed the lens is just clear glass, I can't see any refractor lines on it so that made it a simple disc Thanks for dropping in Clark - there is a bit below on that ..I had a full day at the bench today so got lots of the groundwork done in the wheelbay... ..started with the face of the main spars - I took details from the drawings for where there was rivet detail.. ..and added flanges where there are ribs to help with placement and vertical orientation (and they are there on the real one...) ..there is a central bulkhead at the front of the bay below the engine, so again I took the drawings and made a template I can use.. ..this isthen transferred to litho - in thiscase what actually fits in the model and a best fit made so I can use the detail but don't always have to rebuild everything.. I start by drilling pilot holes and then either use a burr in a dremel or a broach (best tools ever you must get some) to widen the hole to the plan diameter - a quick sand or rub with wire wool and the holes are done... for apertures I drill holes and then scribe to join the holes & break out the bit in the middle.. ...added the spar walls and all the 'T' stringers in the roof...and also cut out two small square holes for the U/C uplocks.. ..both sides.. ..and in a day spent on metalworking added all the forward panels to close the bay off ready for ribs.. found a top tip by accident - using my UMM punch set and I used a 5mm punch in a 5.5mm hole and it flared the edge which is something I have been trying to do for ages & spent hours & lots of fails getting wrong... ..ribs next... TTFN Peter
  50. 2 points
    Yes Gaz, those cannons are really cool, now I must scratch a trolley for it Thanks 1to1scale, there is a lot of aftermarket and if you find the resin canopy you will spare a lot of time to rework the kit one Now it is time for new air-brakes : Also scratch the nozzle cover : Well, the main parts of the bird are done. We will continue with painting the cockpit and assemble the front part of the fuselage. Cheers guys
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