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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/27/2019 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    jan p

    HK B-25J , 18 sqn RNEIAAF

    Hello! i'am Jan and this will be my first build on the forum, Normally I build 1/48 aircraft so this will also be my first 1/32 scale build...... Not sure witch Aircraft I will build, but N5-245 or N5-230 are on my short list I have some Aftermarket sets that I will use for this build, G-factor landing gear and Hgw seatbelts are in the mail. Started with the cockpit, and slowly build from the front to the back of the aircraft. thanks for looking, Jan
  2. 5 points

    Hasegawa Ki84 Hayate

    Well after about a year I have finally (ish) put this one to bed, the kit is typical Hasegawa, great fit and a pleasure to build, the paint used was Sovereign Colourcoats, Xtracolor and Humbrol, markings are painted using Makatar paint masks, some cockpit parts are Aires, I did not use the complete cockpit to save time (it didn't). I also am not keen on lowered flaps so I modelled mine raised after seeing a build on HS in which the builder had raised his. I also used a couple of builds on LSP as guides as well. I am really pleased with this one, the topside paint is Sovereign Colourcoats ARJ01 (same as ACJ22) which matches IJAAF#7 Ohryoku nana go shoku (I don't know either), at first I was disappointed that it was matt but it airbrushed beautifully and gave me a great finish. With handling the finish was matt with satin patches and looked great, it a shame that I could not replicate it at the end but a Satin varnish coat (Xtracolor) to me looks great, rather than a dead matt finish. As I know next to nothing about Japanese subjects I contacted Nick Millman (Aviation of Japan) for advice and he very kindly answered all my detail questions on colours and model paint, he did the same when I built my Ki 27 Nate. I did go off track with a couple of colours though so just in case any of you experts notice anything wrong any mistakes are mine not Nick's I am useless at weathering so I tend to just fade the paint on my builds and dirty them up a bit. I finally cracked the undercarriage hydraulic lines bit thanks to some good advice, but I still am not keen on Aerial wires the one on the build took me two attempts and it is still not anything to write home about. So on with the photos, all taken with my phone, looking at them the prop is too clean it needs dirtying up but it is only pushed on so I can still sort it out.
  3. 5 points

    Tornado IDS

    my impression off the first electronicbay Mark
  4. 4 points
    evening folks Hi Mark - yes they are sort of 'T' shaped pipe things where a pipe goes straight through the little banjo fitting at the tip - the fixing holes are on the plans and I can see them in pics (maybe a bit smaller than these ...) Thanks Chuck -always value your sage advice I actually contacted Marvin at Model Motorcars as they make all sorts of bits for Pocher cars but the ones he had were either too big or too small - I was going to scribe the pattern on it as I have done that before, but then I noticed the lens is just clear glass, I can't see any refractor lines on it so that made it a simple disc Thanks for dropping in Clark - there is a bit below on that ..I had a full day at the bench today so got lots of the groundwork done in the wheelbay... ..started with the face of the main spars - I took details from the drawings for where there was rivet detail.. ..and added flanges where there are ribs to help with placement and vertical orientation (and they are there on the real one...) ..there is a central bulkhead at the front of the bay below the engine, so again I took the drawings and made a template I can use.. ..this isthen transferred to litho - in thiscase what actually fits in the model and a best fit made so I can use the detail but don't always have to rebuild everything.. I start by drilling pilot holes and then either use a burr in a dremel or a broach (best tools ever you must get some) to widen the hole to the plan diameter - a quick sand or rub with wire wool and the holes are done... for apertures I drill holes and then scribe to join the holes & break out the bit in the middle.. ...added the spar walls and all the 'T' stringers in the roof...and also cut out two small square holes for the U/C uplocks.. ..both sides.. ..and in a day spent on metalworking added all the forward panels to close the bay off ready for ribs.. found a top tip by accident - using my UMM punch set and I used a 5mm punch in a 5.5mm hole and it flared the edge which is something I have been trying to do for ages & spent hours & lots of fails getting wrong... ..ribs next... TTFN Peter
  5. 4 points

    Trumpeter P-38

    Thanks guys. Slowly picking away at the PE there's the canopy latches and masks applied. This piece has actually been painted but I don't have a picture yet You have to get inventive on this kit for where you place weight to get the nose down. The engines end up being hidden but since they help line the props up I decided ti build them as an exercise _and_ to add weight. I added some lead fishing weights in the engine block gap and I noticed this dead space at the back of each engine (bell crank housing in a car engine). I took some fine lead solder and scrunched it up to fill the space T These guys are starting to feel like they have a bit of weight in your hand. I'm looking for more spots forward of the CoG Plodding forward. Having trouble with my airbrush but it's self-inflicted. I let it get gunked up and it hasn't been the same since
  6. 4 points
    I have used “Archer fine transfer” fasteners set for detailing engine cowling.
  7. 4 points
    Work is starting slowly. Comparing the dragon fuselage to the plans from Shawns book led to the following work to do: - fill the ejection chutes - cut out the square camera window - rescribing multiple panel lines, this will be hard work since the existing rear panel has the width of the camera window and the panels on the E-3 should be 2mm wider I used the wing spar and the lower fuselage to get the camera position realtive to the cockpit floor: The final position will be determined through the rear seat and the radio equipment. That's it so far, I'll spend a lot more time planning this conversion before the first cut - I hope it's not too boring.
  8. 4 points

    Focke-Wulf 44D "Stieglitz"

    The two windshields are delicately cast resin, very thin and fragile, which is why I guess a spare is provided: With care I masked and fitted them, they really are a very precise fit: Meanwhile, I've started painting the prop:
  9. 3 points
    and mounting the engines and overall thanks for looking jan
  10. 3 points
    This is the scheme I'm going to try and recreate. It'll test my airbrush skills for sure! Cheers, Wolf
  11. 3 points
    Thanks guys for all the orders, many of you would have been notified your orders are on the way. For the ones that have not been notified as yet fear not yours will be sent soon, when the next batch is delivered from the casters, should be within the next week. Nice new picture of actual parts cast in brass cheers Ali
  12. 3 points

    Hasegawa Nakajima Ki 84 Hayate

    At long last it's finished, well just about, the prop and spinner have been sitting on my shelf while I finished the rest, so it is a bit too new looking, but for now into the display cabinet it goes. Here is a taster before I put it in the RFI section. Cheers Dennis
  13. 2 points
    Old Dog

    The archer and Jack

    I was in a modeling slump for most of 2018, at least as far as model aircraft was concerned, most of my modeling efforts were directed towards my model railroad hobby and I found it difficult to spend any time building planes. I also hadn't complete a 1/32 scale aircraft since the early part of 2017 so towards the end of last year I decided to see if I could get back in the groove. I looked through the stash with a couple of prerequisites, low parts count, simple paint jobs (I really hate masking) and kits I felt I would be satisfied build OOB or with a bare minimum of after market. I decided on two, hoping that I would manage to push at least one of them through to completion. Those two were the Pacific Coast Models Re.2005 and the Hasegawa J2M3 Jack. Although the Re.2005 was a short run type kit test fitting looked good so I started it first. The cockpit nearly go the best of me. No matter what I did I couldn't get it to fit to my satisfaction. I finally came to the realization precious little of it can be seen through the tiny cockpit opening. The PE instrument panels hides up under the cowl and about all you can see is the seat and chain link harness. The only other thing that was fiddly was the landing gear which took several tries to get the stance some where close to correct. In any event I managed to get it finished and though it's not one of my better efforts it looks OK in the display case. I also think my photography skills have atrophied, either that or the auto focus on my nearly 20 year old digital camera is failing. Anyway here is the archer... These aircraft were only in service for a short time so I kept the weathering to a minimum. The Jack was a joy to build and any issues I had were of my own making. Since these were used primarily for home defense and the fact that I wanted for once a japanese aircraft that didn't looking like a stripping job gone bad, I left it fairly clean and pristine. I had a PE set for this but used very little, the PE IP looked way to one dimensional too me so I ended up using the kit panel with the kit decal. I does have a wash on it but it was too light for the camera to pick up These two seem to have gotten my juices flowing again and as soon as I finish up some micro scale kits on the shelf of doom I hope to start another large scale kit. Thanks for looking !
  14. 2 points

    1/32 WnW Halberstadt CI.II (Late)

    Avittic decals added which layed down like a dream compared to the kit supplied set. Then started adding the rib tapes from Aviattic but with white decal film, labourious but worth it. Not added the upper tapes or the wing edge wrap over yet in white decal film so everything will neaten up. So far so good but just spend an hour at a time on this process as it does get a bit tedious. Work started on the engine detailing with the Taurus resin set, first time I've used this set and although supper fiddly well worth the effort. Really enjoying this build and starting to come together now. Regards. Andy
  15. 2 points
    In a small window of spare time I had, I managed to tackle a couple of areas that I'd been thinking about. The first one was the spinner. Not everyone will see it how I do, or bother about it, but (to me) the four bladed spinner looked a little too long when seen from the side, compared to photos. I decided to see what I could do to try and convert the short 3 bladed spinner to a four bladed one (with some filing I thought this shape looked more accurate and a better length). First thing was to file to shape and fill in the 3 blade apertures. For added strength, especially when cutting four blade apertures, I first cut down and inserted the other 3 bladed spinner within this one. When filled, the spinner looked like this. I sat it on a plan of the prop to show where the 4 blade apertures needed to go. I wanted the spinner to have the correct shaped apertures and not to have to use the raised triangular parts which are on the Airfix baseplate (I removed those). Note the 'scoop' into the baseplate also at the spinner apertures in my rough sketch. Here's how the internals of the spinner looked after cutting the apertures. I rotated the inner spinner through 60 degrees to the outer to reinforce areas. This is it when tried with the 4 blade prop. And again from the side (you can just see a scoop in the baseplate). To see how the shape matched up from the side to the real thing, I held it in front of an online Imperial War Museum shot of Harry Hardy's Pulverizer IV (IWM MH6865), using a spare brush handle and a blob of blu-tac. To my eyes, it's a good enough match (note the actual topline just above my spinner). That left me here so far, with the wing lower half on cannon bay started and a new spinner. The other area that I'd been thinking about was the radiator cover and Vokes air filter (for the Normandy dust). Airfix give a front piece for this, but I wanted to add a little more in this area. I decided the best way around this for me, was to assemble the front of the radiator housing and match it with the rest at a later date. Here are the raw materials for my filter. What we've got here is a length of plastic strip, the body of a ballpoint pen, size 12mm, 10mm and 8mm plumbing olives and what's left of the stoneguard mesh radiator protector with the centre part removed (thought I'd save part 16 as a back-up). First thing I did was cut the strip into small lengths which were glued around the pen body (to make the filter). I cut down a 12mm olive for the ring at the back of the filter. The smaller ring was from the 10mm Olive and this was for the front 'cuckoo doors' face. The 8mm Olive was a perfect fit for the filter to mount on, in the centre of the radiator (shown inserted). This allowed the filter to positioned correctly. This shows the assembled radiator housing front (cut down from the original parts). I wanted to use something strong and maleable for the frame that holds te filter in the radiator intake (plastic strip just snapped when bent). My son Matt, found this piece of thin steel that he'd brought back from his college work. I was able to cut this into strips (one on the right). So this is what I then ended up with. This shows my filter with a modified Airfix part on the front, ready to mount into the radiator intake frame. This in front of the radiator shows how the filter sits in front of the radiator (on that brass olive). This one is a loose dry-fit test of the parts together. Looks a little rough now, but I think it'll be ok after some tidying up work, (filing and sanding, perhaps thinning the filter 'blades' a little, proper positioning and a some careful painting). Cheers Bob.
  16. 2 points
    I try to be 100% accurate 50% of the time.
  17. 2 points

    CF-18 color bird

    Hi guys A bit more work being done on this rainy/snowy/icy weekend. Looking in the Daco book, I can add quite a bit to the gear bays, I'm not going to add that much but a little firkytootling in the gear bays what with the stuff Academy has provided as well should clutter them up a bit. The pics. I'm working from: the APU exhaust as supplied new APU exhaust I also opened up the air intakes play continues as the hours go by...
  18. 2 points

    Getting tanked for the New Year

    I was just going through my new Panzerwerfer book last night, and the schemes on some of the German stuff can be so great looking.
  19. 2 points
    This video really got the juices flowing; this kit is going to make an absolutely stunning display piece. Now to figure out how to find the space for it.
  20. 2 points
    Dead? Why? Because it has not yet been released or because there is no new information regarding the release? Sorry but both cases do not give either the proof or even a clue this has been shelved. Such a project takes years and HK has not resources without limits. Wait and see.
  21. 2 points
    Haven’t had much time to work on it, what with year end tax aggravations to be done so that ate up an entire weekend, but I have managed to get the landing gear assembly installed being careful that the plane fits squarely on the tires. I didn’t have to do any adjusting - it all “fell” in place. The fit between assembly and fuselage isn’t the best, especially considering the fact that all the engineering is CAD based. This is probably a result of the kit being revised over shape issues. Sorry, I didn’t get any photos. Next I got the fuselage buttoned up, seams filled, sanded and panel lines re-scribed. Only issue here was a slight gap at the cockpit, but some tape held it together while I glued it. Fuselage glued. Those black lines on the wing ammo access panels are our piano hinge Surface Details. The ones on the kit just looked way oversized. Fuselage glued, seams filled and sanded. Also re-scribed the panel lines. Of course, the ones on the bottom came out perfect, but I may have to do some tuning up one on the top. I usually fill my seams with a mix of sprue dissolved in Tamiya Xtra Thin but this time I used Tamiya putty. That will be the last time I do that because the putty just does not take scribing like styrene. I also like to do a little "chemical sanding" by running a little Xtra Thin over scribing (note the gloss around the panel lines) to soften the edge of the scribed line which doesn’t work over the putty. Left side. The thing to note here is that despite all the handling not one rivet has been lost. That’s it for today. Hopefully I’ll be able to get the horizontal stabs and control surfaces on and finish up the riveting next weekend.
  22. 2 points
    I very recently realized that I like finishing models more than I like building models. Striving for accuracy often conflicts with that. If accuracy isn't that time-consuming and meshes with my skill set, I'm all for it. Otherwise, I allow for compromises. That's not right or wrong; it's just me. I can't and won't have that attitude regarding my job or my family, but the hobby I rely on for relaxation and re-charging....absolutely. But I certainly do enjoy watching others work towards perfect accuracy! I've learned a lot that way. jp
  23. 2 points

    where east meets west

    bit of progess clamshell cargo doors sanded and mould saem removed Now still sanding on the other half off the feuselage Mark
  24. 2 points
    Peter Gregor

    Rules of the Road

    I'm in with Tamiya 1/32 F-4E and RF-4E Kurnass version...
  25. 2 points
    It is YOUR HOBBY. Hobbies are for your fun and relaxation. Make your models any way you like. Color and detail them any way you like. Stretch your imagination as far as you like. I have a most satisfying habit when confronted by a loud mouth anal retentive character who criticizes my not absolutely scale models. I usually have a cup of cold soda in my hand, Somehow it gets spilled all over the front of the character's pants. Tch, tch. Clumsy me. I do not criticize any modeler for how he or she makes their models. If anything, I encourage them all I can. I like to make my own design airplanes. At the other end of the scale there are modelers who like to make exact detailed replicas of real airplanes. We are all correct in what we do. Relax, love yourself, love our fellow modelers, we are all just enjoying ourselves. Cha cha cha.
  26. 1 point

    Takom Jagdpanther G1

    Just received this. I may or mat not turn this into a build thread but at the moment I'm having enough difficulty getting to the bench to work on my P-38. I did take a quick look in the box and it looks about the same sort of thing as the other 2 in my pile (Panther, King Tiger) but this one at least has shells and racks as separate pieces. I'm going to have to stock up on the Tamiya Red Oxide primer
  27. 1 point
    So after chopping the fuselage in half in excitment of joining the this group build I realised I probably should have glued the buklheads/ wing spars in place first to ease initial alignment before getting the razor saw out but never mind. So with that in mind I will work on the rear fuselage foward. The tail wheel bay on the Ju-88 is pretty large open space and needs some detail. On mu Ju-188 build I used the Profi Modeller set which although very nice is very very expensive now. On this build I'm going to use the AIMS etched set which is a nice simple set and is a massive improvement to the very basic kit parts. Hopefuuly I can follow the Profi set a bit and make some improvements based on that set. So with a bit of care I opened up necesary holes and then added the etched skins. Not had a lot of time to concentrate on this one but with all my refernce sorted now I'm looking foward to getting on with this one now. Regards. Andy
  28. 1 point
    Have to ask, what is the purpose of announcing a kit if three years later there is nothing to show for it? If it’s to get people interested, that’s great, but as time goes on people keep asking with no new information, that interest wains and people lose confidence in a company’s future releases. If it’s to call “dibs” so no other manufacturer starts on one, what’s the statue of limitations on that? If two more years elapse with no change, is another manufacturer allowed to give it a go, or will they be accused of “stealing” someone else’s kit? It’s true that companies don’t owe us anything with regards to letting us know of what their upcoming releases are, or have to tell us their schedule, but people are people, and if you announce something that people want and don’t deliver in a time many people seem reasonable, there will be questions. That’s human nature. Personally, I don’t think a company should announce a product unless they have a plan and the resources to get it out in 18 months maximum.
  29. 1 point
    some progress on Toryu what I really like that landing gear consist out of few parts only, which helps to keep geometry and add strength to it and fit of it is great I wasn't sure about the color because most of good pics of landing gear shows that it was in bare metal instead of khaki as stated in instructions but based on this pic which depicts this specific airframe I'm almost sure that it was left unpainted engine nacelles and the seat thanks for looking jan
  30. 1 point
    Wolf Buddee

    Getting tanked for the New Year

    Absolutely K2. It was probably easier to paint the full size Tiger than a 1/35 one though but it should be fun. Cheers, Wolf
  31. 1 point

    HB B24 discussion: AM and fixes.

    Hi Guys, In reply to Pup7309, I think for some people it wouldn’t be an easy fix, it involves a fair bit of butchery to the plastic. BUT, yes, it’s a big but, for anyone with any scratch building or kit hacking experience it’s relatively easy. When he showed it to me I could see his direction immediately. Putting that into perspective, I’m trained as a technician in the RAF, been a modeller since I was about 10, so modelling for 58 years, scratch building for most of that, making masters for resin armour kits. So I could see straight away what his plan is. And Iain is an outstanding modeller so when you see it you won’t be able to see any lumpy, bumpy bits, it will look like it should have done if Hobby Boss had done the work in the first place! Regards,, Bruce Crosby
  32. 1 point

    Getting tanked for the New Year

    One can't simply go all "wolf" on tiger 1 , unless it's Wolf himself. Impressively annoying level of detail Wolf ! Like,,,c'mon , Didn't you just undergo a nasty operation of your hand ? Fantastic work my friend, just outstanding in every level . Cheers M.
  33. 1 point

    Takom Jagdpanther G1

    That's a shame. If you were closer you could perhaps borrow some of mine, as I've got a ton of stuff on the Jagdpanther.
  34. 1 point

    My Day Job

    Thanks Scott, look up any model making Shop in your area and give them a call. You never know, they might be short-handed and looking to hire someone to freelance. You’d be surprised; while a lot of shops are “aging out” there are more of us out here than you might think. Haha Wolf, and my night job, and weekends, and birthdays and holidays and so on. It is indeed a cautionary tale, making your hobby your job. It is why I disappear for great long periods, nose to the grindstone as they say. I’ve been an LSP member since 2006 (maybe ‘05?), but only have a post count in the low 400s. When you have “real” work on the bench, it’s very, very hard to work on hobby work, the guilt can be overwhelming. I’m 55, and my wife and I hope to retire early, by like 62 or so, so I can spend the rest of my days building my stash and traveling. Time will tell. Of course I am not getting rich doing this, so I’ll be doing this till the end; burn me with an X-acto in one hand and calipers in the other LOL. Jimbo
  35. 1 point

    B-17G Little Miss Mischief

    "So...like Yo"....any update on you're B-17???? Cheers...Ron
  36. 1 point

    Hasegawa Nakajima Ki 84 Hayate

    Excellent! Super attractive scheme for sure.
  37. 1 point
    Wolf Buddee

    Takom Jagdpanther G1

    Wow, looking at the box art, I can think of a lot of places I'd rather be than inside that machine! Looks about as much fun as being in a sinking sub..............but the model looks cool! Cheers, Wolf
  38. 1 point

    F-16 ADF

    My only concern would be getting good symmetry on both sides of the aircraft, but overall, that looks pretty doable to me as a scratch build project.
  39. 1 point


    I have added everything I wanted to the nose section. 110_4560 by Rick Martens, on Flickr Assembled the crew. 110_4555 by Rick Martens, on Flickr 110_4557 by Rick Martens, on Flickr 110_4558 by Rick Martens, on Flickr 110_4563 by Rick Martens, on Flickr 110_4566 by Rick Martens, on Flickr The tail gunner and the radio operator are like Frankenstein put together from all sorts of spare parts. Rick
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point

    Jazzed up Hasegawa Me262's

    What a pair of dozeys!! Marvelous job Brian with some cracking scratchwork. Torben
  43. 1 point
    Nice paintwork, looks great Cheers Dennis
  44. 1 point
    I may be persuaded to sell my CE Phantom...it is now 2019 and no progress?
  45. 1 point

    Mr. Paint / MRP Paints?

    There was only 1 item listed as out of stock, so hopefully the rest gets shipped fairly quickly. A note on his site would be helpful to set the expectation of shipping delays. I don't have a tracking number yet but everything is noted as 'paid' for my order, including the back-ordered paint. I kinda mind when it takes 4-5 days to pack an order that is supposed to take 3-4 days to ship - should not take longer to pack than to ship in my mind, hence setting expectations would be appreciated. But if he's a one-man show, well, there are only so many hours in the day. But again, a note on the website would be in order. Jennings - was your order over $100? I was surprised to pay shipping on my order. I'm hoping that someone at our upcoming Model Classic event in April will be selling MRP and I'll pick up the rest of what I need there. Or maybe I'll just buy them when I'm in Spain next month.
  46. 1 point

    Mr. Paint / MRP Paints?

    The good news is, Hobbyworld will ship the out of stock items when he gets them without any additional shipping charges. The bad news is he frequently forgets to do this, so you pretty much have to keep diligent track of the backordered items and remind him. And sometimes, it may take 6 months to get your stuff.
  47. 1 point

    Wing Leading Edge?

    Two - That is the picture i've been looking for! No doubt now what the proper configuration is. And, contrary to what I thought, it's not a strap that wraps around but a rod the uses wood screws at each end. Thanks very much for sharing - that's incredibly helpful. Andy.
  48. 1 point
    Close enough for handgrenades, horse shoes and models! I’ve never entered an IPMS event, so I have no idea if accuracy is that important or just builders skill. But if I was building for a contest I could see pushing the accuracy issue. Otherwise, have fun!
  49. 1 point

    Jazzed up Hasegawa Me262's

    Brian, a pair of stunners to be sure. Your work, as I have said countless times, is an inspiration! Thanks for sharing! THOR
  50. 1 point
    And the gears are ready: Also the engine VK-1: The gear bays with some weathering: And we have a fuselage .... finally: Cheers friends
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