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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/24/2019 in all areas

  1. 14 points
    And....we're off! Last year, I did a little bit of gluing and some cutting on this, but I think it was well below the 25% threshold, so this weekend I took a break from the Stuka to get down to biznass on this one, too. I forgot to mention this will be a "gear up" flight display. I chose to use the old Cutting Edge early conversion, even though I have the GMF/Rutman one, too, as much out of curiosity as anything. Since I forgot to take any pics before I started, here's a canned pic of the conversion set: Overall, the fit and quality appears to be decent, but for a few glaring problems I've already encountered. The instructions would have you replace the entire front of the engine nacelle, including the wing roots, but upon test fitting, I found that the conversion's wing roots did not match up with the kit wings very well, so I elected to cut them off the CE parts and leave the kit roots in place: Here's what I removed: This seemed to work rather well, and I've already blended them in and begun re-scribing the details. The supercharger conversion parts actually fit really well, so no issues there: The boom radiators were the toughest part by far. You have to cut out a big hunk of the boom on each side an replace it with a new piece, and then attach the new scoops over them. The infill pieces fit ok, but the scoops sucked. As you can see in the photo, I still have to cut one of them back off and make it larger (second from right) because it's smaller than the other three, but I didn't see that until I'd already puttied them in and begun blending them. Dangit. Anyway, that took a lot of my weekend, and that's all the farther I got, so you can see that this is not as easy as I'd hoped. A last one of the parts I've worked on thus far: And back to the Stuka and 3D printing stuff for a while. To much sanding make Tim a grumpy guy. Tim
  2. 8 points

    1:18 Hobbyboss AV-8B Harrier

    Had to add material to the kit supplied intake liners, for what ever reason they decided to leave them short of the fuselage sides, I also will have to add small fillets where they meet up to the fuselage sides. Got the fairing in front of the main fan, it's not quite as long as it should be, this goes back to dimensional errors, I had to cut about a 1/4" off the front of the engine(second molded in ring) in order to create a larger gap between the fan face and the back of the nose gear bay. I'm not sure where the error is, I don't have drawings, it may be in the overall length of the fuselage, the front landing gear seems to be in the proper place in relationship to the intakes, so I'm just going to go with smoke and mirrors from here out, I really like the way it's starting to look !!!
  3. 7 points
    Cheers everybody, it looks like I have found my next big project after finishing the big Viking - something pretty much out of my comfort zone. The CH-53E / MH-53E is a more than fascinating aircraft and among my all-time favourite helicopters. Based on a free nicely proportioned and correctly dimensioned Sketchup model I have found a few years ago, I have spent hours making the file printable on my newly acquired Creality CR-10S FDM printer. Over 100 hours of printing later, I have an almost complete CH-53E fuselage in 1/32nd scale: The fuselage was printed using PETG; my first trials with HIPS were not very successful as I've experienced enormous warping and bad layer adhesion, despite rather high temperature settings and the enclosure I've built for my printer. PETG does not sand as nicely as ABS or HIPS but is very easy to print and much easier to sand than PLA. The rotor will be more difficult as the CAD data is not complete - most of it will have to be scratchbuilt. There is no interior either, so all of this will have to be made from scratch as well. I have to admit I am not yet 100% sure if I will build a CH-53E or a MH-53E as both of them are impressive and important aircraft. The CH-53E will be easier to build as I have the sponsons and external fuel tanks; the MH-53E is a bit more tempting as it is even more special than the CH. Time will tell. In the meantime, if anyone has the 1/48th scale Academy MH-53E in his stash, I would be very interested in getting high-res scans of the instructions and the decal sheet. Would be great if someone could help me with that. What do you think - CH or MH? And no, Airforce versions are not an option and building both of them is not really an option either...
  4. 7 points
    Then installed Parts C9 & C14 and glued the gear well together. Next, I cut off the rectangular tabs on the sides of the gear leg and cut a groove in it’s place that would fit a small drill bit, being careful to keep the angle of the groove the same as the tab, which is about 15-20 degrees. I then cut one short drill bit for the bottom and a longer one for the upper pin with a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel. Then after opening the bottom hole slightly, I slipped the bottom pin in place. This pin is necessarily shorter than the top pin, because it gets in the way of the bottom fuselage parts, which have a triangular tab at this very location. By cutting off the tab slightly, everything will fit later. Thankfully with the gun doors closed, the top pin can be any length, so I left it a bit longer for strength. Now the front gear leg can be glued to the pins at the end of the build, just like I plan for the main landing gear, so I can set the gear leg aside until I do the other two. Mission 2 accomplished. Next up is final installation of the cockpit and IP. Fingers crossed that this all goes well. Cheers, Chuck
  5. 6 points
    Ok tank is all welded up and this is fresh off a coat of Mr Surfacer I am really happy how this turned out! Perfect welds with Archer Panel Lines, such a great product And sooooo easy to do. A couple of little jobs to finish off and the 400 gal tank and pylon is done. Cheers Anthony
  6. 6 points

    HB B24 discussion: AM and fixes.

    I will have some B24 AM available in a few weeks (with instruments of course...) Peter
  7. 5 points
    Fieseler Fi 103 & Fi 103A-1 Reichenberg 1/32 Special Hobby All colours MRP Canopy mask MH Models
  8. 5 points
    Hey guys, Peter has just sent through some pics of the initial test etch, mocked up on my kit parts. This lovely little set will soon be available, contact Peter to express your interest. Nice eh!!
  9. 5 points

    F-86F Hasegawa 1/32

    I've used the Hasegawa 1/32 Canadair Sabre Mk.6 kit to build this F-86F on the beginning of Dec 2018. I was interested in exploring the visual expression of Natural Metal Finishing type of aircraft. I've used the Alcled II lacquers for the painting. With the limited colors and experience I have, this is best I can do at that time. F-86F Sabre 40, Hasegawa 1972 kits, rebox on 2005, 1/32 with raised panel lines.
  10. 5 points

    Airfix 1/24 Typhoon

    It's the Airfix 1/24 scale bubble top Typhoon with the Yahu instrument panel, Xtracolor paints and Aviaeology decals.
  11. 5 points
    Me too, and another kit to use it on. P-38s are my faves, so it's the only plane I own multiples of. I am slightly considering building the GMF one at the same time to see how they differ, but that might be too much for me. I have an L model in progress (for about 5 years now!) and an old Revell kit started as another conversion, so hopefully I can get a couple done this year. I haven't decided yet, but I'm shooting for an H model. I have the Zotz decals for McGuire's early plane, but it's been done, so I'm leaning toward something more obscure. Maybe this one, or one like it:
  12. 5 points

    where east meets west

    intakes and engine Mark
  13. 5 points

    Make the others jealous

    just recievd Mark
  14. 5 points
    Hello master modelers - life got in the way, and my work on the Thunderbolt has been interrupted alot. But I do have a modest update if for no other reason than to let you know I am alive. So on the wing, the flaps are next up. Something has to attach to these links: Recall I had started on the flaps a while ago, attempting to salvage the existing parts: And I still might. But to get the spans just right, and get the leading edges right with the attach fittings, is going to be a little sloppy. Besides, scratch building control surfaces or high lift surfaces like flaps, can be great fun. So that is what I am doing. If it turns out badly, I will revert to plan "A". I am at work making skin panels (with many hundred drill starts for rivet patterns), the spar, and quite a few ribs: These parts will make up the main body of the flap, and are all 0.020 inch thick plastic sheet. After that is done, I will tackle the more difficult leading edge, with its attach fittings and heavily curved skin panels. Sorta like the real thing! You may be wondering "why does he bother with lightening holes?" Here's why - glue together a thin sided closed box with no way for it to breath, and the plastic skins will soften and sag or otherwise deform due to the fumes from the glue. I found that out the hard way on Miss Velma a few years ago, where I completed a flap box only to see it deformed overnight. The holes really solve that problem. Here is a shot at the mostly complete main body: There are 9 ribs including the end ribs. I have also put stiffeners in between the ribs (the actual flap has full ribs in those locations too - I didn't want to make that many ribs). This shows the end ribs: They are two layers of 0.01 inch thick plastic sheet, meant to show the hydro-formed stiffening features on the real thing. Since these ribs are visible, I needed to do that. Note also I put in some .03 x .03 rod as a stringer, just to split up the bays and minimize any sagging of the skins. Finally, note the inboard end rib has a heavy (20 deg) cant to it. The real flap has this too. Next post you should see a completed main body for the RH flap, and perhaps some work on the attach fittings. My near term goal is to complete those fittings and test fit the flap on the wing. Hopefully the flap fittings will line up well with the linkage on the wing, and position the flap properly in a flaps down position. Fun. Stay tuned!
  15. 4 points

    1/32 Hasegawa P-40E

    Well all good things must come to an end. This is the finished Hasegawa 1/32 P-40E. Let me recap. -Scratchbuilt interior minus seven kit parts, one resin engine, and one resin seat. -Scratchbuilt tail wheel assembly. -Scratchbuilt wing framing. -Scratchbuilt .50 cals. -After market decals. All told way to long to finish. But I will take it. Again the pictures are much too faded but this time I know why. There are some issues/omissions, glaring to me. The ones I did not fix are the ones that would require me to tear the build apart and start over. Thank you for looking in. All comments, critiques, and criticism are encouraged. Joe
  16. 4 points
    It may not be pretty, but it's definitely functional from what I'm seeing in this build. Between you, me, and anyone reading this, I was hoping it was bedazzled...
  17. 4 points
    Since you are persistent, here is my 'contraption' - Quite embarrassing I know. Duct Tape Version 2.0 Plywood frame for the polystyrene sheet... I'm pretty sure you can do better than this. Cheers: Kent
  18. 4 points

    Airfix's big Typhoon

    Just added the finishing touches to Airfix's 1/24th Hawker Typhoon MkIb this week: a project I've had on the bench for the last 6 months or so. Admittedly I've picked it up and put it down as and when I've felt like it, but regardless this kit is most definitely a long-term investment in regard to time and effort. I found it an absolute joy to build and thoroughly enjoyed every minute. Fit was exceptional but you must follow the instructions to the letter, especially where the engine and its piping is concerned, as tolerances are very tight. The only after-market was a set of Eduard seat belts - everything else was OOB. PIC 9 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 8 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 7 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 6 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 5 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 4 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 3 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 2 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 1 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 10 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I opted for the post-war scheme so other than some tonal variation to the paint, I kept the weathering restrained. Paints were Xtracolour enamels with Humbrol flat as a top coat. Decals were from the kit and were excellent, bedding down well over the recessed/raised details without any problems. All in all, a fantastic kit - roll on the big Hellcat! Best regards, Tom
  19. 4 points
    I love that moment when you put a coat of primer on your model and like magic all the rough spots, sanding marks, and lumps and bumps show up clear as day! Where were they before? It sure felt smooth to me :-) I worked some putty around the nose pitot and I used Mr Surfacer 500 to round out the fairing and blend it into the nose. Mr Surfacer really shows how much work I have to do yet. Looks manageable though. I think the transition of the fairing looks much better than the sharp edge I had previously. Lots to do around the pitot tube and up where the nosecone mounted to the fuselage. Finished up the sides, Sanded this to 600 grit in preparation for the MrS. I also extended the coaming a little further into the windscreen so the transition will look right. From the side view here you can see how the angle looks consistent now. This I'm extremely happy with. The side extensions I grafted in have disappeared. Just a few pinholes and maybe one shallow area around gun port was. This will finish out nicely. Once I have everything smooth then I can work on scribing based on the drawings and pictures I have.
  20. 4 points
  21. 4 points
    Time to add the wings. Turns out, apart from a number of sink marks around the wing root (as mentioned by Juggernut), I also had a problem with the fit at the trailing edge of the wing where there was a 1mm step up to the fuse. I removed some styrene from the step on the inner end of the wing But this still left a step on the underside behind the wheel wells. A bit of filler and sanding and I think it’s looking a bit better. A few pics with the wings in place (a bit more Jug-like ) I’ve also been working on the flaps. After making the faux pas with the stick, I went one better with the flaps and closed them up without inserting the hinges first! After a bit (for which read major) surgery, I managed to open them back up and set the hinges. The following pic shows the flaps with the PE parts along with the canopy runner – which includes what have to be the fiddliest bits of PE I’ve ever come across And finally, the drop tanks painted using AK’s Extreme Metal aluminium (not quite ready to try Alclad) Until next time Paul
  22. 3 points
    Here's a pleasant update, I received the replacement parts in the mail from China today. Very happy with that, and I'm thankful for the manufacturer to be so quickly responsive. At least my kit is complete now; warts and all, I'm very pleased. I appreciate the passion for it being right, or wrong, etc. But to me is a big-ass model kit of a big-ass bird that I have dreamed about since since I firmly landed in 1/32 scale, many moons ago, along with B-17s, B-25's, and really? Lancasters? Life is good. . . Just thought I'd share a bright spot on a dreary day. Happy modeling all! Jimbo
  23. 3 points
  24. 3 points
    johnie hopper

    Me-262 1/32 details

    The last news. I've received price per set and it seems, that I will be not able to get under 19 Euros (plus postage). Second possibility is go back to only an instrument panel and then price could be under 10 Euros. What is more acceptable for you? The third possibility is to evaluate each part separately and make package according to your wishes - but it seems too demanding for me. In my head I have an idea to make "Set02" with instruments of rear cockpit of nightfighter version. The third one "Set03" could contain not seen parts as cannons, FuGs etc. Tomorrow I'm going to meet with producer to see what are possibilities and limits of MultiJet 3D printing. The final content of the large version of Set01 in enclosure. P.S. Is there anyone who would like to manage this job/production? - please send me P.M.
  25. 3 points

    Fort Meyers, FL....

    Hi Jack-the only local shop is probably Metro Trains and Hobbies on Metro Pkwy in Ft Myers. They're open Saturdays but closed Sundays. Well stocked with new items plus a classroom where local club guys gather on Saturdays to build or whatever (drink coffee and eat donuts!). 12951 Metro Pkwy #8, Fort Myers, FL 33966 If you fancy a short trip across the river to Cape Coral (only a couple miles depending on where you're staying) you can swing by our "shop." It's more of a warehouse actually but you can always spend some time picking through the stacks of kits and aftermarket. I'm there Saturday from about 8:00 until 4:00. I can always meet you on Sunday if it's easier as I only live a few miles down the road. 1327 Lafayette St., Ste C, Cape Coral, FL 33904 Our phone is 1-239-784-9671 Bob
  26. 3 points

    1917 Sopwith Camel by Model Airways

    I hope I'm not too late, but the librarian at the Shuttleworth Trust was kind enough to pop down to the hangar for me and take some pictures of their Camel's fuselage rigging whilst it was undergoing restoration recently. I found them quite useful during the build of my model. The proviso put on their use was that the Trust should be attributed if they are, and they can't be used for commercial purposes. One small point to bear in mind is that the Trust's Camel is itself a replica built from the original drawings in the 1930s if I recall correctly. I hope they are of some use. They were to me.
  27. 3 points

    1917 Sopwith Camel by Model Airways

    I cut the inner jackets, soldered the pieces, drilled out the safety wire holes and starting attaching the eye bolt ends. I'll finish the first two dozen tomorrow and then get started on the next group. I figure if I can do 24 per night, i'll have the 100 required for the wings done by the weekend. This first set will have eye bolts at each end as per the reference photo below.
  28. 3 points
    Go Ben Go! Man you never cease to amaze and inspire with your subject choices and execution.. Good luck on the new Big 'un , I'll definitely be watching. I second Timmy's sentiments, Ironhorse would be cool =-) Pic included for motivational and educational purposes only =-) Paul
  29. 3 points
    The 2nd 1/32 kit in my Natual Metal Finishing projects. I spent most of my 2018 Christmas and New Year holidays on it. F-100D Super Sabre 1/32 Trumpeter Kit with Alcled II Lacquers. I've tried not to ink on any panel lines. Instead, using the delicate control of airbrush and compressor PSI to express the idea of metal panels.
  30. 3 points

    1:18 Hobbyboss AV-8B Harrier

    I worked on the thrust nozzles a little bit, as some are aware Hobbyboss slide molded these parts so that they would have bosses in them to attach to the rotating set up inside the engine halves(this was all done when it was made for Merit as a pre-built) the big problem with the bosses is that you can see them. I started removing the bosses from the rear set of ducts cut and ground them out and started sanding away what was left and suddenly I realized that all I had to do is cut the molded -in louvers out, clean the inside of the nozzles, make new louvers from card stock, they need a little deatailing anyway, they are just flat walls as they come in the kit, I'll probably emboss some riveting in the card stock before I put the new ones in.
  31. 3 points

    HB B24 discussion: AM and fixes.

    I've just found this: Restoring Australia's only surviving B-24 Liberator I've instantly added it to my "Must see while in Australia" list. Some interesting pictures for reference there: and more... Juraj
  32. 3 points

    Make the others jealous

    Just delivered by the postman.
  33. 2 points
    As fabrication of the turnbuckles continues, my production speed is getting better. The first step is the pre-drill the outer sleeve and then score the brass tube (photo 1). Next each individual piece is broken off (photo 2). The the sleeves are sanded down on each end and cleaned up a little bit (photo 3). The last photo is the first two dozen units from last night. Should have the next batch of 30 units completed by tomorrow. NOTE - when fabricating turnbuckles, I was told it was important to make sure that each eye loop "finished" on opposite sides. Soooooooo... each turnbuckle in the picture above has one end with the loop ending on the top and the other on the bottom (effectively creating an elongated figure 8 on its side). Not sure what the engineering principle is behind this, but a guy at the US Airforce Museum told me that's how it's done and he was wearing a Airforce Veteran hat so I didn't argue.
  34. 2 points


    I did a little more work on my mock-up wheels...I worked for Firestone for 13 years and found they did some aviation tires...SOOOO, There are still some flaws to be worked out, and more sidewall data.
  35. 2 points

    F-51 Korean War Mustang

    Thanks Jari. I’m getting cold just looking at those pictures! Looks like there was no “standard” F-51D. I’m going to have to see if there are any pics of the subject I’m planning to build out there so I can verify it’s exact configuration. I guess I’ll need to determine radio fit, vents on fuselage side, type of prop and what style canopy was used. I doubt I’ll find a pic that shows the wings very well (assuming I find any pics at all) so I’m going for wings w no putty.
  36. 2 points

    F/A18F Super Hornet 1/32

    A job has been on and off for 2 months since June 2018. It's one of my satisfied work in my personal US Naval Air Force builds. I have added the smoke on the photos and called it Visual Diorama.
  37. 2 points

    Rules of the Road

    Morning, looking at doing a F-18C and a A-6E. Not sure of the markings for the F-18C but the A-6E will be a Sunday Puncher. Mike
  38. 2 points

    1917 Sopwith Camel by Model Airways

    Twobad - these pictures are priceless! Thank you very much for sharing them.
  39. 2 points

    What's New - 23 January 2019

    Howdy folks, I've just published the latest What's New update. Enjoy! Kev
  40. 2 points

    Short Sunderland MkII

    It's out now: Short Sunderland - Tour Part 2 Juraj
  41. 2 points
    Dany Boy

    2018 LSP Christmas Raffle Winners

    This morning I receive the Аrt print of 2004 IPMS AUTOGRAPHED POSTER and I am very happy to have my LSP Christmas raffle presents Thank you Chris for your Trumpeter 2255 F4F3 Wildcat with aftermarket in the box of Avionix AV32051Grumman F6F-3 Hellcat resin cockit set (early) for Trumpeter. Thank you Ray for your beautiful 2004 IPMS AUTOGRAPHED POSTER Phoenix Arizona August 2004
  42. 2 points
    hi if you take a look at their F 5 E /F cockpit sets ( 1/48 ) , ..wow , it will be ......" mouthwatering" ................ Alain
  43. 2 points
    He's alive , he's alive !!
  44. 2 points
    Blend coat of RLM78, quite thin since evry tutorial stated to stop before it looks good. Then the marbling of the upper side. Gunze RLM79 and for some variation Tamiya red-brown and buff. The latter mostly on the horizontal surfaces and the elevators. Followed by the blend coat. The overpainted squadron markings recieved a lighter sand brown, as it can be seen on the original aircraft. The same mix, but highly thinned, was applied to the elevators and ailerons. The wings got a little less blending because of the RLM80 green which will add quite a lot of contrast. The green will follow tomorrow, I didn't get as far as I hoped today. But one lesson was learned: I'll never ever install the dust filter before painting again! It was almost impossible to achieve a good angle with the AB..
  45. 2 points
    White 8 And another....
  46. 2 points
    Happy New Year everybody! It's about time to post the pics of my finished 1/32nd scale Viking. The background is not ideal as the photo booth is too small. No way to take photos of the diorama either - I'll have to wait for better weather to take these photos. Anyway, no need for a lot of text this time - for those interested in the building process, here's the link to the WIP: Comments, critique and questions are welcome as usual!
  47. 2 points
    johnie hopper

    Me-262 1/32 details

    So, I finished work on REVI 16D and EZ42 and the set looks finally complete. Tomorrow I will send file to producer and then we will see...
  48. 2 points
    A mini-update tonight, which I should have posted along with the pics above. Ever wonder where to get really small wires for model wiring? Quite by accident when taking a computer apart a few years ago, I discovered that those big wide belt-like electrical cords are full of not only wires, but lots and lots of TINY wires. This is the exact scale of wire I need for this F-5E build. When painted and attached to stuff behind the seat that have this wiring, they look almost identical to the wires molded into the BB resin cockpit. Most of the electrical wires reside on the starboard side, so I think that’s it for wiring, even though I could add a hundred more if I cared. Something often lost when posting close-up pics is just how small the details are. This should give you a better idea of scale. Those IP gauges are minuscule! After wiring, I had a chance to dirty up the cockpit a bit and spray a dull coat, to knock down the shine. Much better now…. That is all! Chuck
  49. 2 points
    Mr b

    1/32 Intruder A

    Thanks a lot guys for the nice words and motivation....much appreciated......been busy ....and today managed another update. the cockpit is moving along the panel. The finish is based on artistic impression....not painted to replicate a real panel. the tub, same here artistic impression... the shroud ...nicely detailed as oob a mock up....hope to finish the cockpit soon..... rgds and happy modelling brian
  50. 2 points
    Anthony in NZ

    Make the others jealous

    What a stunning kit these Silver Wings kits are...WOW! To be converted into an RNZAF Hind or Hind Trainer....thank you Silver Wings!
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