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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/24/2019 in all areas

  1. 14 points
    And....we're off! Last year, I did a little bit of gluing and some cutting on this, but I think it was well below the 25% threshold, so this weekend I took a break from the Stuka to get down to biznass on this one, too. I forgot to mention this will be a "gear up" flight display. I chose to use the old Cutting Edge early conversion, even though I have the GMF/Rutman one, too, as much out of curiosity as anything. Since I forgot to take any pics before I started, here's a canned pic of the conversion set: Overall, the fit and quality appears to be decent, but for a few glaring problems I've already encountered. The instructions would have you replace the entire front of the engine nacelle, including the wing roots, but upon test fitting, I found that the conversion's wing roots did not match up with the kit wings very well, so I elected to cut them off the CE parts and leave the kit roots in place: Here's what I removed: This seemed to work rather well, and I've already blended them in and begun re-scribing the details. The supercharger conversion parts actually fit really well, so no issues there: The boom radiators were the toughest part by far. You have to cut out a big hunk of the boom on each side an replace it with a new piece, and then attach the new scoops over them. The infill pieces fit ok, but the scoops sucked. As you can see in the photo, I still have to cut one of them back off and make it larger (second from right) because it's smaller than the other three, but I didn't see that until I'd already puttied them in and begun blending them. Dangit. Anyway, that took a lot of my weekend, and that's all the farther I got, so you can see that this is not as easy as I'd hoped. A last one of the parts I've worked on thus far: And back to the Stuka and 3D printing stuff for a while. To much sanding make Tim a grumpy guy. Tim
  2. 7 points
    Cheers everybody, it looks like I have found my next big project after finishing the big Viking - something pretty much out of my comfort zone. The CH-53E / MH-53E is a more than fascinating aircraft and among my all-time favourite helicopters. Based on a free nicely proportioned and correctly dimensioned Sketchup model I have found a few years ago, I have spent hours making the file printable on my newly acquired Creality CR-10S FDM printer. Over 100 hours of printing later, I have an almost complete CH-53E fuselage in 1/32nd scale: The fuselage was printed using PETG; my first trials with HIPS were not very successful as I've experienced enormous warping and bad layer adhesion, despite rather high temperature settings and the enclosure I've built for my printer. PETG does not sand as nicely as ABS or HIPS but is very easy to print and much easier to sand than PLA. The rotor will be more difficult as the CAD data is not complete - most of it will have to be scratchbuilt. There is no interior either, so all of this will have to be made from scratch as well. I have to admit I am not yet 100% sure if I will build a CH-53E or a MH-53E as both of them are impressive and important aircraft. The CH-53E will be easier to build as I have the sponsons and external fuel tanks; the MH-53E is a bit more tempting as it is even more special than the CH. Time will tell. In the meantime, if anyone has the 1/48th scale Academy MH-53E in his stash, I would be very interested in getting high-res scans of the instructions and the decal sheet. Would be great if someone could help me with that. What do you think - CH or MH? And no, Airforce versions are not an option and building both of them is not really an option either...
  3. 6 points

    HB B24 discussion: AM and fixes.

    I will have some B24 AM available in a few weeks (with instruments of course...) Peter
  4. 5 points
    Fieseler Fi 103 & Fi 103A-1 Reichenberg 1/32 Special Hobby All colours MRP Canopy mask MH Models
  5. 5 points
    Hey guys, Peter has just sent through some pics of the initial test etch, mocked up on my kit parts. This lovely little set will soon be available, contact Peter to express your interest. Nice eh!!
  6. 5 points

    F-86F Hasegawa 1/32

    I've used the Hasegawa 1/32 Canadair Sabre Mk.6 kit to build this F-86F on the beginning of Dec 2018. I was interested in exploring the visual expression of Natural Metal Finishing type of aircraft. I've used the Alcled II lacquers for the painting. With the limited colors and experience I have, this is best I can do at that time. F-86F Sabre 40, Hasegawa 1972 kits, rebox on 2005, 1/32 with raised panel lines.
  7. 5 points
    Hello master modelers - life got in the way, and my work on the Thunderbolt has been interrupted alot. But I do have a modest update if for no other reason than to let you know I am alive. So on the wing, the flaps are next up. Something has to attach to these links: Recall I had started on the flaps a while ago, attempting to salvage the existing parts: And I still might. But to get the spans just right, and get the leading edges right with the attach fittings, is going to be a little sloppy. Besides, scratch building control surfaces or high lift surfaces like flaps, can be great fun. So that is what I am doing. If it turns out badly, I will revert to plan "A". I am at work making skin panels (with many hundred drill starts for rivet patterns), the spar, and quite a few ribs: These parts will make up the main body of the flap, and are all 0.020 inch thick plastic sheet. After that is done, I will tackle the more difficult leading edge, with its attach fittings and heavily curved skin panels. Sorta like the real thing! You may be wondering "why does he bother with lightening holes?" Here's why - glue together a thin sided closed box with no way for it to breath, and the plastic skins will soften and sag or otherwise deform due to the fumes from the glue. I found that out the hard way on Miss Velma a few years ago, where I completed a flap box only to see it deformed overnight. The holes really solve that problem. Here is a shot at the mostly complete main body: There are 9 ribs including the end ribs. I have also put stiffeners in between the ribs (the actual flap has full ribs in those locations too - I didn't want to make that many ribs). This shows the end ribs: They are two layers of 0.01 inch thick plastic sheet, meant to show the hydro-formed stiffening features on the real thing. Since these ribs are visible, I needed to do that. Note also I put in some .03 x .03 rod as a stringer, just to split up the bays and minimize any sagging of the skins. Finally, note the inboard end rib has a heavy (20 deg) cant to it. The real flap has this too. Next post you should see a completed main body for the RH flap, and perhaps some work on the attach fittings. My near term goal is to complete those fittings and test fit the flap on the wing. Hopefully the flap fittings will line up well with the linkage on the wing, and position the flap properly in a flaps down position. Fun. Stay tuned!
  8. 4 points

    1/32 Hasegawa P-40E

    Well all good things must come to an end. This is the finished Hasegawa 1/32 P-40E. Let me recap. -Scratchbuilt interior minus seven kit parts, one resin engine, and one resin seat. -Scratchbuilt tail wheel assembly. -Scratchbuilt wing framing. -Scratchbuilt .50 cals. -After market decals. All told way to long to finish. But I will take it. Again the pictures are much too faded but this time I know why. There are some issues/omissions, glaring to me. The ones I did not fix are the ones that would require me to tear the build apart and start over. Thank you for looking in. All comments, critiques, and criticism are encouraged. Joe
  9. 4 points

    Airfix's big Typhoon

    Just added the finishing touches to Airfix's 1/24th Hawker Typhoon MkIb this week: a project I've had on the bench for the last 6 months or so. Admittedly I've picked it up and put it down as and when I've felt like it, but regardless this kit is most definitely a long-term investment in regard to time and effort. I found it an absolute joy to build and thoroughly enjoyed every minute. Fit was exceptional but you must follow the instructions to the letter, especially where the engine and its piping is concerned, as tolerances are very tight. The only after-market was a set of Eduard seat belts - everything else was OOB. PIC 9 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 8 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 7 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 6 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 5 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 4 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 3 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 2 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 1 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 10 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I opted for the post-war scheme so other than some tonal variation to the paint, I kept the weathering restrained. Paints were Xtracolour enamels with Humbrol flat as a top coat. Decals were from the kit and were excellent, bedding down well over the recessed/raised details without any problems. All in all, a fantastic kit - roll on the big Hellcat! Best regards, Tom
  10. 4 points
  11. 4 points
    Time to add the wings. Turns out, apart from a number of sink marks around the wing root (as mentioned by Juggernut), I also had a problem with the fit at the trailing edge of the wing where there was a 1mm step up to the fuse. I removed some styrene from the step on the inner end of the wing But this still left a step on the underside behind the wheel wells. A bit of filler and sanding and I think it’s looking a bit better. A few pics with the wings in place (a bit more Jug-like ) I’ve also been working on the flaps. After making the faux pas with the stick, I went one better with the flaps and closed them up without inserting the hinges first! After a bit (for which read major) surgery, I managed to open them back up and set the hinges. The following pic shows the flaps with the PE parts along with the canopy runner – which includes what have to be the fiddliest bits of PE I’ve ever come across And finally, the drop tanks painted using AK’s Extreme Metal aluminium (not quite ready to try Alclad) Until next time Paul
  12. 3 points

    1917 Sopwith Camel by Model Airways

    I cut the inner jackets, soldered the pieces, drilled out the safety wire holes and starting attaching the eye bolt ends. I'll finish the first two dozen tomorrow and then get started on the next group. I figure if I can do 24 per night, i'll have the 100 required for the wings done by the weekend. This first set will have eye bolts at each end as per the reference photo below.
  13. 3 points
    Go Ben Go! Man you never cease to amaze and inspire with your subject choices and execution.. Good luck on the new Big 'un , I'll definitely be watching. I second Timmy's sentiments, Ironhorse would be cool =-) Pic included for motivational and educational purposes only =-) Paul
  14. 3 points
    The 2nd 1/32 kit in my Natual Metal Finishing projects. I spent most of my 2018 Christmas and New Year holidays on it. F-100D Super Sabre 1/32 Trumpeter Kit with Alcled II Lacquers. I've tried not to ink on any panel lines. Instead, using the delicate control of airbrush and compressor PSI to express the idea of metal panels.
  15. 3 points

    1:18 Hobbyboss AV-8B Harrier

    I worked on the thrust nozzles a little bit, as some are aware Hobbyboss slide molded these parts so that they would have bosses in them to attach to the rotating set up inside the engine halves(this was all done when it was made for Merit as a pre-built) the big problem with the bosses is that you can see them. I started removing the bosses from the rear set of ducts cut and ground them out and started sanding away what was left and suddenly I realized that all I had to do is cut the molded -in louvers out, clean the inside of the nozzles, make new louvers from card stock, they need a little deatailing anyway, they are just flat walls as they come in the kit, I'll probably emboss some riveting in the card stock before I put the new ones in.
  16. 3 points

    HB B24 discussion: AM and fixes.

    I've just found this: Restoring Australia's only surviving B-24 Liberator I've instantly added it to my "Must see while in Australia" list. Some interesting pictures for reference there: and more... Juraj
  17. 3 points

    Make the others jealous

    Just delivered by the postman.
  18. 2 points

    F/A18F Super Hornet 1/32

    A job has been on and off for 2 months since June 2018. It's one of my satisfied work in my personal US Naval Air Force builds. I have added the smoke on the photos and called it Visual Diorama.
  19. 2 points
    He's alive , he's alive !!
  20. 2 points

    Porsche tiger got stripes.

    I went to the local hobby store today to buy some tamiya paint. In the next photo we can compare the colours. Tamiya XF-64 and XF-61 are in the middle, flanked by the Mig paint . The red brown look much like the faded Mig ditto, but the dark green is way too dark. Here one get an idea of the final look. I didn't keep it however because the Mig paint won't mix well with white. Btw, I noticed it look better covered with a partial layer of ochre. Go figure. Second attempt. Too much overspray here. Some yellow ochre to cover it all, again, and then Google for advice. Third time for the win. Low pressure, well diluted paint and keeping close to the surface was the recipe for success. The tape is there to help keep the needed distance between the steps. It basically shows the width of the green to be added later. I will make adjustments to the front, I think. The brown is little too feather edged in parts. I guess I got a little careless towards the end of the session. The stripes on the side are pointing the wrong way, maybe? But I have only left side profiles to guide me, I'll not worry much about that. Artistic licence and all that. Baby steps so far, but thanks for watching.!
  21. 2 points
    White 8 And another....
  22. 2 points
    Well it better be a CH-53E! HMH-461 to be specific! IRONHORSE!! .....sorry for yelling, I got excited. It’s been 2003 since I last flew one but I remember The Hog well. Happy to be a resource! Definitely excited for this build, I expect great things ahead! Timmy!
  23. 2 points
    johnie hopper

    Me-262 1/32 details

    So, I finished work on REVI 16D and EZ42 and the set looks finally complete. Tomorrow I will send file to producer and then we will see...
  24. 2 points
    A mini-update tonight, which I should have posted along with the pics above. Ever wonder where to get really small wires for model wiring? Quite by accident when taking a computer apart a few years ago, I discovered that those big wide belt-like electrical cords are full of not only wires, but lots and lots of TINY wires. This is the exact scale of wire I need for this F-5E build. When painted and attached to stuff behind the seat that have this wiring, they look almost identical to the wires molded into the BB resin cockpit. Most of the electrical wires reside on the starboard side, so I think that’s it for wiring, even though I could add a hundred more if I cared. Something often lost when posting close-up pics is just how small the details are. This should give you a better idea of scale. Those IP gauges are minuscule! After wiring, I had a chance to dirty up the cockpit a bit and spray a dull coat, to knock down the shine. Much better now…. That is all! Chuck
  25. 2 points
    Mr b

    1/32 Intruder A

    Thanks a lot guys for the nice words and motivation....much appreciated......been busy ....and today managed another update. the cockpit is moving along the panel. The finish is based on artistic impression....not painted to replicate a real panel. the tub, same here artistic impression... the shroud ...nicely detailed as oob a mock up....hope to finish the cockpit soon..... rgds and happy modelling brian