Leaderboard

Here are some pics, after washing and weathering. I have noticed that the black paint on the real deal is pretty non-uniform and can tend towards a brownish-black. I added some brown to black to create a custom mix and applied it in a non-uniform way. The Two Bobs decals are very nice, kudos to those guys for delivering so many great subjects over the years. One thing to watch out for on this sheet is that the very light gray markings are printed white. Very quick and easy solution is to overspray them with some very much thinned down black (not gray, else the area around the decals will appear lighter which may even look like a silvering issue). In the above pic the area around the gun seems a little too faded... I took those pics in pretty intense light, the effect is a little exaggerated in the pics. Nonetheless, I wonder if I should reduce that effect a little. Thx for looking, Marcel

This will be a short whip. I have this mostly assembled. I painted this in black primer, then used black basing technique which lots of marbled shades under the paint. The effects are subtle. The gloss sea blue is Mission Models. I forgot to photograph ti cockpit before sticking it in the model and glueing it all up. I am using the Funkdecals sheet: Forgetting the unit number but tried to simulate the overspray on the group symbols, my strategy was to use a superfine masking tape about the scale of the tape used by navy, then mask leaving a gap like below. I think I have the lower wing group symbol on the wrong side, have to pay close attention here. I thought it wrapped around the wing but bottom g symbol is on left wing top symbol is on right wing. After that I just tried to do a bad paint job and this is what I got:

i think this is my first finished model post here......i hope it's liked this is the old tool hasegawa A6M5c with the metal cowl and undercarriage .....it's an old kit but still builds up well...the markings are for a plane flown by Saburo Sakai in 1945. the kit is out of box other that a set of stunning Eduard wheels...and it's my first serious attempt at weathering....pretty happy with the results.  48189145_891007654427941_8537467885692387328_o by paul sabin, on Flickr 48237114_891007591094614_2427286469388271616_o by paul sabin, on Flickr 47680111_891007794427927_1391688894189142016_o by paul sabin, on Flickr 47681468_891007687761271_8704623490252144640_o by paul sabin, on Flickr 47580615_891007624427944_3525011382179201024_o by paul sabin, on Flickr 47578347_891007847761255_4762451636943585280_o by paul sabin, on Flickr and with an older 21st century early A6M5 that i built 48408314_891007887761251_2994181298731352064_o by paul sabin, on Flickr it's been an enjoyable learning experience...i'll be playing with weathering in the future

Time is running and I am pushing hard to get the whole ting finished until Sunday... the Viking itself is ready. I have built a transport jig which will hopefully help to get it to BSMC without any damage. My friend Thomas has built a base and an incredible catwalk for me. I am doing my best to do it justice with a proper paintjob... pics of the base will follow after the show. I have finished one of my own CAD designed A/S32-A31A to fill up the space on the base. I will hopefully get the possibility to make my vehicles available soon, but more on that later. And a little one because I couldn't resist... The whole setting will be set up for the first time on Sunday. I hope I can take a few decent pics then which I will try to post next week.

This is my new project. This Spitfire Mk.1 will be finished with the markings of Turkish Air Force circa 1940 Due to age and minor problems of the old kit I will use a dozen modification. Here we go...

Hi friends, continue with this project : masking and painting, the most interesting part of our hobby, because when you remove the masks, it is something like to open a Christmas present Hope you like her Cheers friends

Here is a pic where you can see both faces of the wheels:

Still battling photo hosting issues since I shut down my website, so let's see if this works... Here's the (un-buildable ) 1/32 Trumpeter P-40B/C done in the markings of Robert Neale's "White 7" of the AVG in Kunming, China in June of '42, CO of 1st Pursuit and the leading AVG ace with 15.5 kills. Decals are from Kits World mostly and were excellent. I started with Tiger Wings decals which look great on the sheet but we were so thin and brittle they were mostly unusable. Big, big shout out to my buddy Rick Kranias who provided me with the two side windows for the cockpit after I broke mine. Details: BarracudaCast resin wheels Master brass MG set SAC landing gear (only because lone of my struts got lost) Cockpit corrected with left over parts from Azur Hawk 75 and some scratch-building Kits World decals Paint: Mr. Color

OK, PB seems to be working (sort of) so let's try another one. Kit: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190F-8 Decals: EagleCals Paint: Mr. Color Notes: EagleParts spinner and propeller blades with external weights, MDC SC 250 bomb, HGW seatbelts. HGW raised rivet set, Eduard wheels, Quickboost gun set, Quickboost exhausts

Please add this as donation...

Starting to apply the markings, using Montex masks. With the surface detail on this kit, please don’t use decals! Cheers, Tom

Now that our power is restored, here are some photo's of the corrected half of the upper surface. You will notice the addition of fasteners, and some surface work in places where I felt it would add to texture of the model. These additions are not exact copies of what I can see on the reference material, but rather an interpretation of what I see. As my friend Nick likes to point out, one may have to exaggerate some details to make the model look more like the real thing! Here you can see the airbrake has also had some concave and convex shapes added (or subtracted in this case). A comparison between the worked and unworked sides. Here is the nose area. I did some stressed skin on this portion of the cockpit sides as well as above the main wheel wells. This is essentially how I start it, and the rest is done by sanding the panels to shape. I am quite pleased with the effect, and of course the upright cockpit sides. Now I am going to take a break from the fuselage, and fiddle with the HAD etched exhaust nozzles. This should be fun! Cheers, Sean

Hi! A couple months ago I went to visit the Montreal Aviation Museum, which is situated in an old barn at the western tip of the island. They are restoring a Bolingbroke for static display. I took a few pictures of the state of progress of the project. The museum is very small but they have some nice exhibits and they are also restoring a Norseman. The Airfix kit has just come out so the following pictures might be of help, while waiting for a larger scale one...

We're inching closer to the amazing figure of US$30,000! Given Paul's (not unexpected) difficulties with his insurance company, it looks like he and his family will be leaning on this money for some time yet, and may need our continued support for as long as we can sustain it. If you haven't donated yet, please consider doing so - no amount is too small! https://www.gofundme.com/paul-fisher-fire-relief Kev

I've got a pair of Tamiya Tomcats in the stash. Actually sold off the one Trumpeter kit I had after getting these for a great deal. So that's the way I'm going. One as VF-84 and the other as VF-1. Maybe one day I'll add a VF-111 to them. Carl

Should have added, i'm getting lazy in my old age. An almost OOB build, just having to add aftermarket decals appeals to me more than rescribing, etc. A Tamiya 'Cat done the same way as their previous 1/32 kits would be the closest thing. Don Actually, never going to happen, but a kit by Hasegawa or Revell would be great. They keep things simple yet detailed enough for me, but pricewise (Revell) a great base for those that want to add aftermarket.

For me, the panel lines are the biggest bugaboo. I've rescribed/built the Tamiya kit adding an aftermarket pit as well to be rid of the decal panel. Other than a few shape issues and details, having to rescribe, i'm ok with it. With the VF-1 decal release, i'll build another 'Cat, just have to decide if it'll be a Tamiya or Trumpeter kit. Pros and cons with both, just need to decide which.... Don Tamiya kit is winning, so far...

The cockpit is fairly sparse. They use decals for the various side consoles so they're completely devoid of any raised detail. Carl

Hi Guys, Well, I've been busy with the other two Frank kits. The interiors got built and painted and I assembled them into the fuselages yesterday and added the wings and a very small amount of filler. One of the models needed some thin plasticard shims to widen out the fuselage slightly so the wing fit was better, then a very small smear of Mr Dissolved Putty. I didn't go mad crazy on the interiors as I know from building the first one that you can't see sweet FA inside once the fuselage is buttoned up. I'm not building for a magazine or a competition or a customer so its going to be OK to show at the club and sit om my shelf and gather dust! One of the two new builds has and Eduard etched seat, with the colour etched seatbelts from the same set. For once, the paint cracked as I bent the metal so there was some remedial painting to do. This model has the IP from an Aires cockpit set which I'm not going to use as its far too much effort and the same reasons as paragraph 1 above! Paints here are all Mission Models, even the washes. The other interior has a Master Casters resin seat, the Eduard colour etch IP and the plain etched belts from the Aires set but using the colour etch buckle that's a spare in the Eduard set. After this is posted I'll be putting some MMP Grey primer on the second and third models. Right now they are on the table to my immediate left, having been washed with warm water and a detergent, using a sponge, then rinsed with water and dried with paper towels. Master Casters seat test fit Eduard etched seat test fit Eduard colour etch IP Aires etch and film IP Eduard seat and belts finished. Still needs the control column! The two interiors. Hope you like them. Regards, Bruce Crosby

I'm in too guys - donor and entrant. I will donate a Revell 1/32 PA-18 Supercub - Kit number 04208. Thanks for organising this great event.

Again, more pictures

Here is my donation for the raffle There is a mask set in the box too, all to one recipient. Andrew

IT IS DONE!!! I like it, gots some buggers but I learned some new techniques and it’ll look decent on a shelf! Final build article link HERE!… Gave the model a name BTW THE STUDENT’S REVENGE See if you can figure out why…. Thanks for watching, Timmy!

Hello LSP, I finished the Cessna a few months ago and have posted it in a couple of places. But I thought it might make a nice introduction to my first post here on LSP. There was a lot added to the engine and a little bit done with the interior. But in general the 40 year old kit includes just about everything you see here. Back in August a member was asking if he should build his copy or just collect it. I would answer his question by pointing out that unbuilt models are sad and lonely and if you were going to have a "bucket list" finished model, this would be one.

I would like to participate in the raffle. I will also donate this : Cheers, David

It's been a completely uninterrupted day in the paint booth Another 2 hours gone and the bottom is done in light ghost grey. The tails were supposed to be LGG too which I almost missed. Glad Dave Roof has the graphics with his decals for sure as I kept that sheet right next to me all day. Here's something I really like about this system...I think I said that a few posts up too haha. These 3 pics are for a repair I did. Once I had the mottle coat finished I noticed some poor filler work, yeah I know go figure lol. In order of progression you can see how the repair goes and prior to the top coat it's almost unnoticeable. I still need more work on my sanding and filling but it's getting better.

Yeap, exactly that one, with a more centered scoop.... Dan.

cockpit and positive lines are the minor issues IMHO. You can easily fix them with an aftermarket resin bath tube (Aires, Black Box, Teknics...) and a scriber

Who hoo thanks for the encouragement Anthony! This morning the bottom mottling is all done. Starting with th small parts was definitely the wayto go. If for no other reason this method is great for impoving air brush skills. Recognizng when it needs cleaned out and when my strokes are getting sloppy, like going too fast. So heres where I’m at plus a shot of all the different mixes and a bonus, had a few pieces of cork board left from my daughters room decorating request that were put to good use.

Some progress. Dials are from MDC decal set.

Finally got to work on the cockpit. All OOB except for some airscale dials added to the IP. And I managed to scrounge a couple of resin seats. Not a lot of text except to say all hand painted, and aint that macro lens cruel. Looks good to the naked eye though.

Excellent work Marcel, things are falling into place nicely. Steve

Although the props seem similar between the D and the M/N, the R-2800 used on the M/N series was a C series engine that used a 60 series spline prop shaft instead of a 50 series prop shaft. I believe that fact alone would make it necessary to enlarge the propellor hub albeit with the same shapes and contours. I don't believe they just hollowed out a standard 50 series prop hub to a 60 series spline but that maybe just what they did.... I haven't been able to find anything out on it one way or the other.

Ahh the perfect update for my Sunday morning coffee! I traveled back a bit for a refresher too. Would have to say I honestly noticed that area around the gun before reading your note on it. Knowing your work though I figured it was that way on the real thing. I’d say go with your gut on it and if it seems too light tone it down some. There’s been 2 Thunderbirds for sale on the boards lately, now I’ve gotten the bug again to buy one lol, must resist! Keep up the great work

Thanks guys. I'm happy with the progress myself It'll be a few weeks now till another update as I am off to my Mother in Laws inevitable funeral on Tuesday before flying to NZ to spend what will likely be a not so festive Christmas break. Rest assured, once I have finished the neck off I will be posting some pics. I am in the midst of painting the neck walls and finishing off the detailing to the front panels now. The roof of the bridge is current;y drying and should be able to be released from it's clamps tomorrow Thanks for showing an interest guys. I hope you all have a safe and merry Christmas break Till next time Si

Bolingbroke was the name it was given in Canada for Candian built versions of the Blenheim. The flying version at Duxford actually started life as a Bolingroke with the bigger nose - effectively a Blenheim IV. It was restored after another Blenhiem IV crashed and was written off. I went to see it in the early 90's for it's maiden flight as a Blenheim IV night fighter. It then had various schemes until it was damaged again and they found an early MK1 front end so now it's a Blenheim MK1. Current MK1 at Duxford. https://www.aircraftrestorationcompany.com/blenheim/ History of it's restoration: http://vintageaviationecho.com/arco-blenheim/

Thanks Alain, you're right.....it was late and I'd had a glass or three!!

ok im in i will go tru the stash to take a look what im going to trow in will post later what it will be Mark

Max, I think you meant light blue RLM76 and RLM 75 Grey Violet! Here is the technique I am talking about, shown on the 219 at the Smithsonian museum. A solid coat of 75 over the top surfaces, then wavy 76 lines to leave 75 spots. There are photos of wrecked new 110 with just the solid 75 upper surface. Note the original (darker) paint at the wing root on the 219. You see the style of the original painter was well respected.

I've seen worse , you're right tho , it is more about perspective. Looks like a direct copy of this photo (posted earlier by Kevin). Even the prop blur is identical. They just put it way too close to the ground. Probably another team effort at Trumpeter.

For some shapes and patterns of Zimmerit, my modelling paste would not do. This time, I needed Milliput: Milliput has one some unique properties which can be harnessed for certain areas and patterns. The property I speak of is it's ability to stay workable as long as you keep it wet. It took five pressings to get the milliput thin enough to make the desired patterns you see. With zimmerit, if it's too thick and looks wrong, it's the modellers fault. However, if it isn't too thick and looks non-standard, you can point to any wartime photo of zimmerit and show how many faults there are on real panzers. It took more than a couple hours to get these five and a half circles the way I wanted them. I think the hardest zimmerit task to face would be going around the large bolt heads on the Ferdinand. ...that one is yet to come. Thanks for looking! Gaz

LOL, yeah, I know it's a real stretch, but one can always hope! A new 1/32 Tamiya F-14 is to me what the Lancaster is to the prop folks!

I'm hoping this might be a sign that Tamiya will upscale their 1/48 tomcat!

Hi guys, I had some friends ask for photos of the kit, so I've made an online album of the Yak parts. Running around like a headless chicken today and don't have time to type up a review, but here's what you gt in the kit https://imgur.com/a/ZDi2ThS

Big step made today with Fug 220 array instaaled followed by a light coat of flat varnish and with baited breath removed all cockpit masking and to my relief all was well....phew!! So final bits like hatches, D/F loop, aerial, pitot and propellers need adding and I'll be calling this one done. Regards. Andy

When the Revell 1/32 Tomcat first came out and VF-1 were the markings included, all I wanted was VF-84's Jolly Rogers. This was certainly due to the movie The Final Countdown. Over the years, the Wolf Pack markings have grown on me so this is a welcome release to build one. Carl

Thanks very much guys. Hope you don't get too bored with it as I am not a terribly fast builder I did a lighting test tonight of the bridge and I am happy with how it turned out. I made a number of mistakes on the internals and had numerous electrical issues but I got there in the end. I've also been cutting away at the body to accommodate the fibers. I've actually finished the whole top but just haven't taken any pics yet because it's not daylight Anyway, I just wanted to share the results of the lighting. I'm really happy with how it came out. Till next time Si

Couldn't resist, I just had to try the fitting of the tail plane... Looking very 'Fokkerish'. Now I'm headed for the Wing assembly's... This book about the Fokker Dr. I is just great! Plans and details of the constructions. I'm trying to get as close to real thing as possible. A little example of the work involved for the wing tips. Ready to make copy's of the wingtips. The assembly of the top wing begins. More wing spars in place. No real challenges yet. It's just hours of fiddly work ;-) Cheers: Kent .

If the box art is any indication, Id not get my hopes up. That is some of the worst box top art Ive seen on a model kit in a long time. The perspective just looks really off.

It's still a pleasure to read your kind comments - but it ain't over 'til it's over! I forgot to show you the windscreen wipers which were an absolute PITA to assemble, but the result is not too bad. The position lights have been fitted but I forgot to take a photo. The external tank will probably keep me busy for a few more days. Pics will follow!