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Hi Guys This is the , OTB the only addition are the resin ejector seats. the kits come together rather well, and I used the Hataka paint sets, which are superb, also I have 2 reed oak figures, 7 more to add, also used fox bat masking stencils , but the adhesive is very strong, so I ended up making my own. hope you enjoy. The Sukhoi Su-27 (Russian: Сухой Су-27; NATO reporting name: Flanker) is a twin-engine supermanoeuvrable fighter aircraft designed by Sukhoi. It was intended as a direct competitor for the large United States fourth-generation fighters such as the Grumman F-14 Tomcatand F-15 Eagle, with 3,530-kilometre (1,910 nmi) range, heavy aircraft ordnance, sophisticated avionics and high manoeuvrability.

Hello, Here is my last finished kit. It's the Italeri Mrage IIIC. I added the following items: -Musthave ejection seat. -Eduard wheels. -Eduard PE for interior and exterior. -Master Pitot. -Mix of Bernal decals and Italeri decals. NMF is Vallejo metal color. Philippe.

G'day everyone, I guess i fit the description. Been a lurker for years, have made a very small handful of posts, but soaked in LOTS of inspiration from you all here! I'm itching to get building again, but moving across the planet, starting a new business has taken up all my time. love seeing all the work the rest of you are up to! Cheers, Denzil

Wingnut Wings would have to sell (and therefore produce) at least 5000 Lancaster kits to break even on the tooling. A kit of this size and complexity represents a massive investment, possibly stretching to 7 figures, so limiting the production run doesn't make economic sense - unless they really are going to cost a thousand dollars each. And this will also be one of the few kits the company has produced that will have competition in the marketplace, so I suspect this will be treated as the flagship release that it is, and won't be any kind of limited edition precioussss. Kev

Not sure why we spend so much time speculating on pricing for a kit that hasn't been released, but so be it. The price will be substantial (WNW kits aren't cheap), but you'll get value for money. I don't recall ever hearing that a WNW kit was anything but fantastic, so I suspect this kit will be marvelous. Not my cup of tea (Brit reference deliberate), but I'm rejoicing for all the happiness this seems to be creating among my friends and colleagues here.

All the parts are close to being done. I've decided to enhance the panel lines and to add riveting... I hope it will be add some subtle texture when painted and sanded back a bit... I know the surfaces probably were putty'd, let see how this turns out when finished... Next is to start the assembly... Cheers: Kent

Now a few detail pictures. A few additional details such as antennae, pilot figure, reconnaissance container, etc. were attached.

Today update.

Howdy folks, I think it's about time for another of my occasional posts cajoling lurkers to momentarily shed their veil of anonymity, stick their hands up, and let us know their here! If you're a lurker - someone who visits often but rarely if ever posts - put up a quick post in this thread to let us know you're here. We'd love the hear from you! Kev

Hey guys I have often restored my models and bought a new outfit. As with this model here. So it looked earlier........ The clipped, the models were dismantled, freed from the old paint, some places again filled with filler material, worked and later provided with a new color dress and markers. Of course I use the situation and still use some accessories. Just like a few parts I bought. From the US Air Force F-100 I wanted to build a French Hun and this is my role model.

I think the Trumpy guys did a great job of the cockpit. After assessing each component individually, I decided what was worth improving on. The circuit breaker box is very prominent, and I felt it needed some fleshing out. The instrument panel is pretty good but somehow missing the recess for the AH. Here are my mods to the circuit breaker box - the wiring looms have a shroud that I replicated with little tubes made from tissue (for balsa models) and shaped with white glue. The AH was drilled out and a piece of styrene rod inserted to the required depth. The brake lever is missing from the joystick, and this one is made from suitable bits in my spares box. The seat is from Quickboost, and is a thing of beauty. The engineering of the sidewalls is particularly nice. Here you can also see the wiring taking shape... I added some depth to the sidewalls in the form of the canopy opening/closing lever on the left and what I assume to be the jettison mechanism on the right. There is another detail aft left on the sidewall that I added, but have no idea what it is. Oh, and I added some adjusting knobs for the primary instruments. Instrument panels are often portrayed very flat! The seat has a lot of fine resin detail parts that once added, look like this. I did trim the mounting rail quit a bit to get the seat far enough back so that the joystick still fits in the cockpit (a scale problem of model cockpits that Cheetah11 taught me about).

All right you guys - I will sand off the "made in china" lettering! For the sake of realism, which is what we try to do. Geez..... Barry and others suggested using metallic sheet for the gun panels. I thought about that too, and yes I will try that if I can find the right stuff. How about this from Peter (aka airscale): "Those are double take pictures of the gear bay - I thought they were reference shots of the real one! absolutely convincing - brilliant" Reference shots of the real one? Oh a great complement from the guy who is doing Lopes Hope in 1/18, who's cockpit cannot be distinguished from the real thing! Thank you - that is what modelers want to hear. I cannot wait to see what you do with your own gear bay. So Peter suggests staying with the plastic material for the gun panels, and using heat and then cold to form them. And this is kind of in line with what I was thinking originally. Also Shawn suggests using a reamer for holes. Thanks all for good suggestions. I am formulating a plan: I am first going to form the plastic sheet, probably like Peter suggests, but using a wing leading edge section further outboard of the guns to keep the steam away from the gear bay. The contour will not be that different from the desired. I will hope the curvature is well set in, and will return after I flatten the sheets between thick flat plastic sheet, making a sandwich. I will align the thin sheets as much as possible to assure the contour is oriented to the gun barrel holes. Then I will make use of my mini-end mill, and drill the holes precisely located relative to one another. The thick outer layers will prevent tearing of the thin inner layers (Have done this before with the instrument panel). When I remove the thin panels (now with good holes), from the sandwich, I will rough cut the peripheries, then hope the curvature returns at least mostly. If not I can heat/cool them a second time I suppose. Then I glue the two .01 panels together to make one .02 panel. Then comes the exacting work of final trimming the panel edges to match the cutout. I think a template will not be exact enough - I will have to just trim a bit here, fit, trim a bit there, fit, trim some more here, fit, etc, etc. And then if that all becomes a big fail, I will try alum panels and hope for the best. Man - I feel like this sub-project is a must-succeed; otherwise all this effort is for not. Stay tuned. Hopefully I can get this part done before we re-floor half of our house, including the man-cave where my modelling happens. That will force a temporary halt to the P-47 effort.

Hi folks, if your talking about me, I just didn’t have much to say. Robert

I hope you enjoyed my restoration. Many greetings from Germany Christian

Since yesterday my F-100 is standing in front of me with a new outfit.

Progress is slowing down a bit, but there are many small parts to be treated which takes a lot of time. Slowly but steadily... The wheels were repainted and weathered. The black recesses on the main wheels have to be touched up again. The ice cone shape air exit on the rear fuselage was made using a modified nose cone of a 1/48th scale AIM-54. This also required milling a hole into the fuselage... I love it. Not! Some sanding, filling and painting later. The crew entry hat was detailed with Micromark rivets, painted and weathered. This area appears very yellowish on many photos of real aircraft, so I tried to simulate this effect with different washings and filters. The tailhook is ready as well; I am not too happy with the chipping at the rear, so I'll redo this once again. The sway braces were added to the pylons and the position of the Sargent Fletcher refueling pod was marked. The braided line at the rear of the pylon simulates the fuel line.

I'm here..... Usually check in every few days to check things out, but not built anything for a while. hopefully that will change soon enough.

HI Everyone, A lot of time on little things as I try to prepare for paint. I have only small parts left to attach to the fuselage. But before I can add them, I need to get the canopy in place. Here are some progress photos. Fitting the canopy pieces was a couple hours worth of gentle poking and prodding interspersed with small applications of cement. Dryfitting the hatches has forced me to build hatches-open. I've kept my options open regarding the centering of the prop spinners. I could only think of one way to thicken the prop shafts uniformly without using tape. And finally some wheel work. Thank you for looking! Gaz

With attention on some of the final sub assemblies I have made some good progress in readyness for final assembly, First off are the flame dampers now complete and painted. And then fuel tanks painted, decaled where needed and weathered. Aims prpos built up, painted and weathered. Made sure I remembered the overspary on the props as seen in 2Z+ GB as well as the the overspray onto the spinner back plate as well. Finally main landing gear and wheels painted up and all ready for installation. Getting there with everything now, some work needed on the rest of the clear parts (open hatches) and then on to the dippoles and foward MG's next to complete the nose. Regards. Andy

This HpH MiG-15 was started last year. It is my first completed resin kit. The learning curve is steep, but I am finally done. I cannot wait to get started on the HpH La-7. I hope you like it. Any critiques or suggestions are WELCOME!

I'm thinking the WnW Lanc will be a creature all to it's own as far as price point and availability. I agree that the price may come down a bit at some point, but this will be unlike ANY WnW kit prior......it will be much more sought after than any other WnW kit and if I had to guess, the starting price point will be in the $350 - $500 range. I would hesitate to guess that the price wont drop that much due to the highly sought after and unique nature of this kit. And after it reads "Sold Out" on the WnW site, that same price will SKYROCKET, and you won't see these kits 2nd hand for anything less than retail, and possibly a lot more.

On the D-13, yes. But the D-11 utilized the same arrangement as the D-9. D-11 (note the closed flap section forward of the supercharger intake scoop): And the D-13 (note that the previously closed section is articulated with the other flaps): HTH, D

I'm not so sure - after 50+ years interested in aviation, and modelling, there are still obscure WWI types crawling out of the woodwork that I've never heard of. My 3: 1. Avro 504, in both a J/K and a postwar N boxing; 2. Comic Camel 3. Sopwith Baby floatplane If no 1 counts as two choices, delete 3.

I just took another look at the WNW website, maybe this was noted before in the discussion I had not looked closely enough, they are including parts to do the Merlin XX and the Packard Merlin 28. The cad shots show slightly different ancillary parts. I am guessing the core engine parts are the same but not sure. The fact that WNW would include alternate engine parts in this kit for two different manufacturers though is again a bit of.a stunner to me. The molding detail on the WNW kit though for me is just stunning. I can’t say enough how much this draws me into this model. There is no way I would build the HK kit over the WNW version. I think WNW shows they were well aware of the HK kit as they went to the effort of posting dates on their website for their sprue test shots. They are showing dates going back to July of 2017.

Need to win at a show.

If I can get the kit parts I might well do that for the Liberator I spoke to Neil - he is happy and really encourages AM people like me to do stuff for his kits - he sees them as a canvas for people to go wild on so I am happy to help Surprisingly if the stars align, the set will be available at Telford on our stand (though I might still be sat there packing them!) TTFN Peter

Next project will be Tamiyas Phanton F4 J. To be painted up as a F4-J (UK) using yellow hammer decals.The aim is to end up some where here Starting from here

Sweet Baby Jesus! Mine were just delivered by the post office. These are extremely fine detailed works of art! Could make jewelry out of them. A big sincere thanks for producing these, and I'll be ordering more soon.

I think there will be more than enough to go around, however no matter the price their will be complainers as the price even at discount will be high. There are a lot of modelers that buy the Revell Mustang because the Tamiya kit is just too much money. Their heads will explode at the thought of this Lancaster. When I can get a good deal I might get one. Good deal is relative but I am not so overwrought that i am going to pay retail. There are plenty of deals on WNW kits, a Forum member just offered an out of production Albatros for $80.00. He was well under going auction prices and he had a hard time finding a buyer. I really am not worried about my chances of getting a WNW Lancaster. The quality of the kit is such that I might buy one on that basis. That is why I bought the Tamiya Mk IX Spitfire, not because I had a great passion about the MK IX.

Did that fly into a wall or something? IIRC the 335 was actually in service as didn't Clostermann chase one in his Tempest before it opened the taps and exited stage left?

Looks a bit like Master Chief from HALO.. doing a crossover ?

i'd use a reamer for the holes to prevent the tearing posibility for the parts i'd do sheet stock (vac form over a buck?) after making paper templates for holes, center locations, etc

Thank You William We decided to make this plane because probably no one else would have done it. We do not expect big sales, but that does not bother us, the plane is so beautiful that we want it to be in our own collection next to others. The plane should be ready just before Christmas. Thanks Lukasz

I couldnt wait till tommorow for daylight... so, i took some This is at night, with an artificial light at an angle.

Nice tribute work Lee! I think its very fitting

I see words like 'fantastic' and 'unbelievable' - they all fall short of worthy - seeing your work is like visiting some advanced other world. I should be speechless but I can't help trying to utter something!! Thanks for posting and sharing!!!

Hi, again, while doing the last detailing of the engines I came across the only difference I've noticed on the Jumo 004 installation of the Arado 234 vs Me 262. In these photos (the only ones I've seen of an Arado Jumo) The exhaust/air intake from what I believe is the generator (Chris Wimmer) is different... A corresponding picture of the outside cowling of the Arado, I think this intake is for the generator. The kit has this intake on top of the cowling, so I made a new tube from the generator to fit h´the intake... Cheers: Kent

greatttttt !!!! www.aerowiki.com.br its wonderfull my friend!!

I find that tacking said sliding or opening portion on with liquid masking stuff works just fine. Gazzas, great Hornisse, coming along nicely.

I have the Pro-Modeller Me410 B1 and Revell licenced Hasegawa Me410 B 'Waspen' kit versions of this. Can't wait to start them after seeing your superb efforts on here. Following with pleasure

Yay! It took about 6 weeks, but the landing gear bays are done - at least as done as I can make them prior to gluing the wing halves together: I have some more details (all of the RH wing): This shows a partial rib up against the aft shear web, and the long station 64 rib. The larger diameter tube on the aft wall is a fuel tank drain line - it penetrates the lower wing skin and the end is painted red. The left wing doesn't have this detail. You also see hydraulic lines for the side-of-body landing gear door actuator, a brake line, and some wiring. Here you see the forward (rarely seen) region of the inboard gear bay, with partial ribs (stations 40 and 52). This is where the gear door actuator will reside later on - you can see where the two hoses will connect. This shot looks outboard down the gear bay. Every rib is unique looking. Note on the station 64 rib the gear upstop fitting: And where do all these hydraulic lines come from? The aft end of the inboard canted rib, mostly: And a shot with the gear strut temp installed, showing how the gear actuator attaches: And closer: I will be providing a bolt that joins the actuator rod to the gear clevis - oh yes! But later. Much later. Meanwhile, it is off working other parts of the wing that must be done prior to gluing the halves together. Probably machine gun supports and leading edge holes, and that leading edge air duct hole on the RH wing. Both very challenging. Stay tuned!

Fifty years ago when I was a child making 1/72 kits, few of the subjects produced by WnW had reached my consciousness. Maybe it's the internet, maybe it's the WW1 Centennary, but it more likely has much more to do with these models bringing almost forgotten elements of history back to life. That has to be a good thing, understanding our forebears and how differently or how similarly they thought, and the frankly quite bizarre conditions in which they flew and fought. I do hope Sir PJ dabbles a little more in later eras while keeping his core WnW following happy. A Wimpey with fabric over geodetic structure detail, the DeHavilland biplanes of the Golden Age such as the Rapide and Moths, and the Schneider Trophy entrants from Britain and Italy, amongst others, would all be fascinating subjects. But AFAIK there must be 25 or so WW1 subjects on WnW's secret yet-to-do list. So, the more modellers get carried away with their dreams, the more I say "what's that then?" and learn a little more. So why not indulge in those wish lists? Tony

Last y'all saw was the outboard half of the LG bay pretty much done. Now to update you on the inboard half, as much of it as I have finished anyway. A P-47 wheel bay clearly shows, among other items, alot of naked stringers on the wing upper skin, and a hydroformed web that is the aft close-out for the inboard half of the bay. A good pic from Miss Dottie Mae: You also see in there a canted and dished rib just above the gear door on the right edge of the picture. So, since none of those parts exist on the toy, I was off to the races creating them. The hydro-formed shear web was a little tough to do - I wanted to include the hydro-formed stiffening beads that surround the access door cutouts. The drawing looks like this: I considered several approaches, and settled on simply cutting rings out of .030 plastic sheet: I added all the beads, and then filled in the corners with epoxy, and dirtied the parts up alot to hide imperfections (of which there are many): This was a dirty airplane, operating off steel mesh airstrips in muddy French airfields in winter 1944-45, after all! Note also the canted inboard rib, which I will not describe much except to say I could not figure out how to put the dished surface on it, so I didn't. The real part is dished to provide clearance to the tire with gear up. Now, the gear bay was closed out except upper surface, and stringers. Stringers are beaded "T" section extrusions in real life, and there are 15 of them per bay. Each is attached on its inboard end to the canted rib upper chord with a small fitting. Drawings follow: A closeup of the above drawing, showing inb'd attachment fittings: And a typical attachment fitting: For this effort, for the stringers I used 3/64 (0.047 ) inch angle shape, plus .01 x .04 strip for the missing skin flange. And for the end fittings, just little (very little) pieces of plastic strip: Ugly, I know. But after paint and weathering it starts to look like it is supposed to: Compare to the old wheel bay: But I am not done! There are still two sets of partial ribs (Stations 40 and 52) which are important for systems routing, and then the plumbing and wiring itself. You will see that next post. And that will be all I can do with the LG bays until the upper and lower halves of the wings are bonded together - sometime in the (distant?) future. Thanks for tuning in!

Nice one Ali!! Any chance we could see some A-4 legs, everything out there is terrible without major surgery....or if you can lay your hands on the Hasegawa Hi-Grade kit ones. Great news on the Phantom ones though Cheers Anthony