Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/30/2018 in all areas

  1. Piero

    My big scales models

    Hi, after almost 20 years spent on 1/48tth models, I moved to the bigger 1/32nd scale. Here some pics of the models I have completed in the last 5 years. Trumpeter A-4M Skyhawk in 1/32nd Trumpeter AV-8B Harrier II in 1/32nd Trumpeter Harrier GR.5 in 1/32nd Trumpeter Harrier GR.7 in 1/32nd Trumpeter Harrier GR.9A in 1/32nd Trumpeter AV-8B+ Harrier II Plus in 1/32nd Tamiya F-16CJ in 1/32nd Revell Hawk T.1 in 1/32nd Italeri Mirage 5BA in 1/32nd Italeri Nesher in 1/32nd … and now something even bigger… Trumpeter Hurricane IIC in 1/24th Airfix Harrier GR.3 in 1/24th At the moment I’m working on a DayGlo FIAT G.91R-1B in 1/32nd. CIAO! Piero
    10 points
  2. Hi folks, Longerons reworked - big shout out to Eileens Emporium for getting me the H section brass for the longerons in less than 24hrs from ordering - they came next day so I have had a chance to rework them according to the drawings I also made up the jig that allows me to add the station points and skin the sidewalls ..the main seat bulkhead & the two behind are not glued - just the stations on the sidewalls, but here is where it is at so far... now onto the skinning.. TTFN Peter
    8 points
  3. Mmarchal

    Another Junkers D1

    Great kit
    7 points
  4. I have spent some time replacing some of the resin pins with brass on parts that will be easy to break. The water rudder sticks out a considerable distance and knowing the properties of resin, it wouldn't take too much to break, so this was the first part to receive some attention. The kit `pin' I drilled a 1mm hole right through the rudder and fitted it with a brass pin. At least if it is knocked it will bend rather than snap off. I have set the brass with super glue and will tidy up the protrusion later. I fitted a corresponding tube to accept the brass pin of the water rudder. The ailerons have 1 pin to secure them to the wings. Once again, easy to snap off if the model is grabbed wrong. I replaced the single pin with 3 x 1mm brass pins. Similarly with the boat propeller. This model has come together very quickly. Looks great from all angles. The kit comes with a multi part beaching trolley which I have partially assembled to rest the model on.
    7 points
  5. So after finishing the Ansaldo A.1 I thought I would get stuck into something simple and quick, whilst still keeping things a bit obscure. I chose the Aerotech Piaggio PC.7, as I have built a number of their kits and have enjoyed building them. This model has always been on my wish list and when I was at a friends house recently, he wanted to swap it for a Trumpeter A7 with all the Zacto resin. Naturally I jumped at the chance!. Now, Aerotech make some pretty interesting subjects and their kits are either really simple or need a lot of work. This one luckily is on the easier side, with the parts fitting together well and it features nicely done detail. The aircraft itself is very esoteric, with it not ever having flown due to problems with its gearbox, nevertheless, it will fit in my collection nicely, having a couple of other subjects that reached the taxi stage but never took to the sky. The Box, typical Aerotech it doesn’t really draw you into the subject! apart from the nice resin parts, there is a fairly daunting looking sheet of photo etch which I guess will be the hardest part of the build. Onto the build. I started with the instrument panel, which is a chunk of white metal overplayed with photo etch bezels.not much of this will be seen, so I didn’t spend too much time on it next up was the cockpit. I replaced the kit photo the belts with simple tin foil belts that I made myself. Barely any of this will be seen, so it has been kept very simple.
    6 points
  6. Here is anther Corsair.
    6 points
  7. You're quite right and I am quite fastidious about not going with what's in the box (some exceptions excluded) I've been asked a couple of times on another forum if I could take some shots with something recognisable for scale, so I just took a couple of pictures with a Tamiya Glue Bottle in front. It's not a small ship like usual - this one's definitely bigger than the Yunagi!! I can lay 2 of them, 1 over each side of that back end alone As you can see, it's got some paint on it and it looks much more tied together now. I think I got the colour right too! Anyways, I've started on the bridge and I shall have pics of that hopefully this weekend I hope the pictures give you a better sense of scale.? Si
    6 points
  8. Getting there! just some putty and sanding here and there. I was carried away and added the exhaust stacks too early in the build. I had to remove them to sand the forward plate. Enjoy!
    6 points
  9. MikeMaben

    Mr. Color news ...

    GSI Creos / Mr. Color is seperating individual colors previously in their color sets. For those interested
    5 points
  10. Some more progress. Ready for painting.
    5 points
  11. Thanks Ivan, just the info I needed, The wing glove and the Ventral fin can easily be fix but would need your leading egde photo back pls..... and as for the wing anhedral drop, ummmm, that would be tricky, it's all glued with CA.... Maybe by using some de-bonder I could be able to split it without too much damage.... and the wing drop possibly by cutting the top beem...... not sure. Gonna put it asside for a few days to think about it. But that's a good timming cause I need to finish that baby for a next week IPMS contest in Montreal. See you soon and thanks for watching. Dan.
    4 points
  12. After studying the tail plugs, I tried gluing the tail to the fuselage half, that didn’t work perfectly as the profile is a little off, the fuselage is flatter than the tail, leaving a small step. next I tried the approach that Hasegawa recommends, which a twist, I taped the halves together instead of gluing. I held the halves together and tried to line up each half as best I could. This came out a little better. finally, on the K fuselage, I tried the same, it appears that the K has a closer profile. Its starting to look like a production line now.
    4 points
  13. dani7705

    Seafire L Mk.2C

    Hello again, Here is my Seafire converted from the Hobby Boss kit. I used parts from the Spitfire Mk.IX kit from PCM - propellers, exhausts, wheels, top and bottom cannon covers, Master cannons, GMF tail hook bay for Hasegawa kit, Miliput and my favorites colors Tamiya.I hope you like it!
    3 points
  14. Gentlemen, I have finally moved away from the archaic Yahoo site I've been using since 2007! My new site can be found at the following address : https://flyingleathernecksdecals.com/ All new pages and updated shopping cart, with products easier to find and see.
    3 points
  15. LSP_K2

    Trumpeter P-40F

    I love the humongous stabilizers.
    3 points
  16. Now I got the main gear legs looking closer to the real thing....
    3 points
  17. found time to do sommthing to this one the topic comes from the iron rain group build 1 by mark de bruyn 4 by mark de bruyn
    3 points
  18. Hi folks - I have an update. The past few weeks I have been doing some very exacting work in the wheel well, creating the landing gear support structure, and assuring myself that the result will be a good stout gear strut that is correctly oriented (the right rake and the right splay). First, the upper strut had to be finished, with the actuator arm and the down stop arm. A real P-47 main landing gear strut looks like this: Mine looks like this: The features were made with simple plastic or aluminum tube, filing, trimming, and throwing away and starting over when it didn't work the first time. The clevis lug on the rotation shaft is where the hydraulic retract actuator rod attaches, and the other arm with the round slanted lug on its end is the down stop feature. It took some trial and error to get these additions to work right, and I had no drawings to help me. You Aircorp Library folks know that landing gear, since they are made by a specialized manufacturer rather than the airframe manufacturer, typically have no drawings available to us. A couple more shots: The P-47 main gear strut is mounted in a heavy structural box, like this: BTW - these are pics from the Dottie Mae restoration. This box then is inserted into the wing from the bottom and bolted to spars and ribs. Here is my version: Those of course are the four individual heavy fittings, made from plastic sheet and strip. The layouts were hard, the building easy. Here is the box with those fittings comprising the four sides: What finicky parts!! I was slow as a turtle with them, being oh so careful not to screw anything up. Drawings were available for the parts, which is good. But the thick plastic gauge of the model's wings really made things difficult requiring major modifications relative to a simple scaled part. Inserted (from the top) into the wing, it looks like this: You see the front spar (bottom), the aux spar (top), the station 104 rib (left) and the station 86 rib (right). You also see support struts on the spars, and importantly a plastic rod that penetrates the aux spar and aft plate, to engage a hole in the down stop arm. This, my friends, controls the down position of the gear, and it took lots of patience to get it right. But it's right. Some more shots: The end result is a properly oriented main landing gear - yahoo!!!: If I take the down lock pin out, this gear actually swings into the hole, almost. Some clashes happen on the way because of errors I have made in scaling, and because of the thick plastic gauge issue. That would be nice so as to make painting easier, but no big deal. Now, to get the left hand wing to the same place as the right hand wing. That's gonna take some time. Must be very careful to duplicate everything exactly, so that I get the same orientation for the left hand gear. Is modeling supposed to be stressful? I think not. Then, plenty more wheel well stuff to do, and my next post will show that progress. Take care.
    3 points
  19. Thank you for your kind feedback and the info on the green seatbelts! After studying many photos of the rivet patterns, I decided to go with the 0.75mm wheel as it seems more accurate than the 1.00mm. I first spent some time to draw the rivet lines onto the fuselage using a pencil. Then I started adding the rivets. It was my first attempt (apart from some "dry runs" on a spare fuselage). I am quite happy with the result so far, but I made one small mistake underneath the main fuselage access hatch. The rivet line is a bit too close to the hatch, but most likely nobody will ever notice and I am not sure if I would do more damage than good if I tried to correct it by filling the holes with glue, sanding them and adding new rivets (what's your experience?). A few small details like the rivets around the jacking hole, some more rivets in the corners around the fuselage hatch, etc. are yet to be added. I'll continue first with the forward fuselage and stabilizer. Then the starboard side is next. After that I can work on closing the fuselage including the cockpit. Do you recommend to sand the surface after riveting? Or is it better to leave it as is and to polish the fuselage after painting for some realistic wear effect? Sorry for the bad pictures. I just had my smart phone at hand and wanted to give a quite view of where I am. Cheers, Roger
    3 points
  20. And now starting First step is instrument panel It s modified by Eduard PE part.
    3 points
  21. dani7705

    Seafire L Mk.2C

    Part.2
    3 points
  22. Hello to you all I will enter the F-104G from italeri for this group build and will be build like the have flown in Belgium We have done two colors bare metal and SEA camo i will try to go for the baremetal i will put a practice bomb dispender on the central pylon I have the kit for a time in the stash it whas a hard desicion on what to build for this group build so much to fit in Now here is the box All the extras i have for this one Start will be slow because i also have my su-27 to finnish Mark
    2 points
  23. Here is my last build - the kit from Hobby Boss.I used the HpH cockpit set,canons from RB,exhaust pipes from QB,mainwheels from PCM Spitfire Mk.IX,wingtips from Tamiya Spitfire Mk.VIII a few modification of the cockpit for the Mk.VI version,all markings are sprayed,the stencils are from kit decals.Used colors and varnish - Tamiya,Humbrol and Alclad...
    2 points
  24. You need to get Kevin's KLP Publishing e-book as a start, if you have not already done so. I cannot recall any published drawings as such, but I may have some accurate side views lurking about. If I can find them I can possibly scan and send to you.
    2 points
  25. Out2gtcha

    Trumpeter P-40F

    lolz; it looks like its a horrible perspective shot or a shot of a GIAGANTIC P-40F in the midst of crashing on tiny little air strip
    2 points
  26. Well, there is box art; and isn't that some awful looking box art to be sure...
    2 points
  27. Or possibly sometime between now and never
    2 points
  28. 1to1scale

    Trumpeter P-40F

    sometime between now and 2028.
    2 points
  29. IVe used all 3, hairspray, Mig ammo chipping fluid and Mig ammo "heavy" chipping fluid. Hairspray works fine, but can be a PITA to decant and like other rattle cans, the particulate comes out quite heavy straight from the can. The Mig ammo "heavy" chipping fluid works, but because its heavy chipping fluid, it tends to release much more paint under it. The Mig ammo normal chipping fluid is what I use, as its already in the bottle, works every bit as good as hairspray for me, and as Bob mentions you can drop it straight from bottle to air brush, and put a layer on, and then cover it with the acrylic color of your choice. I find lacquer works best for me for an undercoat of silver or primer since it is far less susceptible to the chipping fluid and water needed to make the scratches.
    2 points
  30. I made a casting of the back section yesterday. I was going to make a mold of the pan as well, but time ran out. I will do that today. I think it will be easier to do the seat in two parts. I hope... My resin pigment is exactly as the kit plastic...
    2 points
  31. 1to1scale

    Trumpeter P-40F

    I have a hard time believing that. But...it would make sense that they announce it 1 day after I buy a Grey Matter P-40F conversion.
    2 points
  32. Thunda (Danny) asked for electronic drawings. This is what I have. You'll need to scale them against the kit. But first, something from HpH's website: Note extension inside black fuselage area. This is an air pass thru vent. This is the drawing I'm using for the cowl panel and flap panel line layout. This is what I used for the wing layout. I thought I used the Tamiya Rex as a reference but I guess I didn't. Note cowling vent is double-cut. I started off using this wing panel layout. Too complicated. I used a combination of this and the green one above. Hope these help. Sincerely, Mark
    2 points
  33. Hubert Boillot

    Building Japanese

    It also answers THE other big question : « what do you need instructions for ? » Neat work Hubert
    2 points
  34. Radub

    WHICH GLUE ?

    I very seldom use cyanoacrylate on PE. First of all, always prime metal with a primer for metal. It has to be a primer for metal, just "any primer" will not do. For example. Mr Surfacer is not a good primer for metal. Tamiya makes a primer for metal in a spray can and you can also get primers for metal from a variety of manufacturer of paints for "white metal" figures such as Vallejo, Warhammer, etc. Go to your nearest Games Workshop and get a primer for metal from them. Priming the metal parts, all metal parts, will help with both gluing and painting. Do not believe the "fairy tale" that if you rub the P/E with sandpaper it will increase adhesion. Fist of all, you risk damaging fine parts and secondly the scratches that you will make on the metal will be too fine and the glue's own surface tension will prevent it from getting into such fine scratches. Primers are not even that expensive. Priming your metal parts is not a secret or some new-fangled affectation - you learn that in metal workshop in school. Car modellers always prime their metal parts. After priming you can use a variety of adhesives: - For flat parts that do not bear any weight and do not stick out of the surface, such as placards, instrument panels, etc, you can use Johnson's Klear and you will be suprised how effective it is. - For parts that stick out and bear some weight, which can also be snagged, such as railings, gun sights, ship masts, I recommend Pacer Formula 560 which is a strong PVA-like glue designed for gluing clear parts on flyable aircraft. It is easily available, it is not expensive and a bottle will last a lifetime. - For large parts that need to lay flat on surfaces such as armour plates, etc, I recommend the rubbery-type "contact" glue such as UHU Alleskleber or Revell Contacta Liquid Special, which is similar. Do not expect glue to hold curved parts in place. If a metal part needs to fit onto a curved surface, bend and curve the part until it rests on the surface without any pressure and then apply glue. HTH Radu
    2 points
  35. Miloslav1956

    F4U-1D 1/32 Tamiya

    Thanks all. Cocpkit is original Tamiya with HGW seat belts and cockpit decals. Weathering & Chipping: Here are photos. 1. Alclad II aluminium or white aluminium 2. Mig Ammo Heavy chipping 3. to rub using a toothbrush or old brush. Always wet with water. 4. whole spray with varnish 5. again Mig Ammo Heavy chipping 6. Camo colors 7. Again brushing
    2 points
  36. I lightly sanded my FW after riveting, although I cheated and went with Radu's tools. If you want a wide range of beading tools, just buy a full jewellers set: About ever size you will ever need. You can get them from Amazon. You are doing some nice work there!
    2 points
  37. Gazzas

    F-105F silver or nmf

    Which marks actually served in NMF, then? It's be really disappointed if I had to take Thud off of my foiling list. Gaz
    2 points
  38. Still looking, here is the gun pod being worked on: Jari
    2 points
  39. Not the best views of the pylon: with the pod installed: most photos show the strakes with the targeting pod installed. Jari
    2 points
  40. Years ago, Verlinden made a set of instruments for this kit. That is no longer available but here is how I improved the I.P. using the same method as Verlinden Productions did back in the day. I went to the E.A.A. air show in Oshkosh, WI (USA) in 1987. While I was looking around the vendor tables, I found a copy of a F-16 pilots flight manual. That was a big score for a 18 year old Viper fan! So I arrived back home after the air show and compared the 1/12 scale V.P. instruments to the flight manual and realized that I had the very book that V.P. used to make their film instruments. Many years later I decided to build this kit. The Verlinden set was lost but I still had the flight manual and took it downtown to a local print shop and had the image sized to scale and printed on clear plastic sheet. The instrument locations have to be drilled out (a tapered rat tail file is perfect for that) and you either paint the back of the instruments or back them with white styrene.
    2 points
  41. I gave up trying to buy SH stuff years ago. Good as it is its a pointless excercise. You cant buy one letalone 4-6. Pity as the stuff always looked great just impossible to buy, luckily there are very good other products available you can buy... Whats the point in fixing a website or announcements if you can never supply anyone who wants your product? SH’s biggest issue is availability.
    2 points
  42. Some progress Painting terminated.
    2 points
  43. OK, so pragmatism takes over from realism with the starboard engine! The aircraft that I'm modelling was fitted with the straight Eberspacher flame dampers as shown in this photograph, and getting the exhaust stubs to the correct fairly acute angle is giving me food for thought. It is critical that the exhaust ports on the engine line up perfectly with the nacelles whilst making sure that the engine doesn't foul the cowlings and panels so I've decided to install only part of the engine (the rest won't be seen anyway) supported on some very non-standard bearers. Each exhaust stub has been drilled and will be pinned into position onto the engine block. This is all a means to an end.....which hopefully will be accurate looking exhausts.
    2 points
  44. So little update, both stabs are on so is the exhaust nozzle. Man that model is unbelivable! It's my third one and still amazed about the fit of it! See for yourself: Except for the wing tips and a few places, I mean really a few spots, there is not much putty on that one! So a bit of clean up and it will be ready for primer! Stay tuned!
    2 points
  45. 2 points
  46. Here the tail assembly and the adjustments made. The gray stuff is actually old enamel paint, which I use to fill small seams. It works great and it shows well when is sanded down.
    2 points
  47. Menelaos

    MiG-15bis (early) 1:18

    some dry fit of the flaps... note that they are not hanging at the beginning of their flap bay...
    2 points
  48. I finally figure out about the pictures. I will do a little better with the quality of the pictures later. Here it is, the Hasegawa P-40K with some aftermarket details.
    2 points
  49. I took it apart...it's an easy action... be careful with the fin...it's also glued together.... 4 screws...that's it... I'm pleased with the Details...not bad for a ..toy... ]
    2 points
×
×
  • Create New...