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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/23/2018 in all areas

  1. Next up was the muzzle opening. First I filled in the three extraneous openings and widened the remaining one. I was able to modify the kit cannon trough to hopefully the correct width. I'll confirm this when the RB barrel arrives.
    6 points
  2. Madmax

    Mig-23 ML in Angola

    Seeing the first photo in this batch I had to smile. The pitot tube on the radome is rather long, and as luck would have it, didn't make it from the table where I was taking photographs to the display cabinet. This hobby... Cheers, Sean
    6 points
  3. 6 points
  4. Madmax

    Mig-23 ML in Angola

    For those who don't peruse the Works in Progress side of things, here is a link to the story of this build: Oh wow, this forum inserts stuff for you... hope the link works as I'm not all that savvy on these things! Suffice it to say the MiG-23 is an "ubercool" fighter, and here is my take on one in service in Angola around 1994 - flown by South Africans, who had fought against them whilst being flown by Cubans just six years earlier.
    4 points
  5. Thanks Ray! Harv and I got talking about what would be involved using the Tamiya kit as a starting point and one thing led to another. I haven't really tried this sort of thing, so hopefully it'll work out. I do have to say I probably wouldn't have tried this without having watched and learned some of these techniques from other members on here. All sanded smooth and any gaps /dents filled with CA. Carl
    4 points
  6. Well, I've gone and done something silly: It's amazing how much you can accomplish when you ignore requests for dinner from your kids. Carl
    4 points
  7. This time the model about which I can not write that it is made straight from the box. This is the F-16CG model from academy with the IsraCast set full of conversion kit for the F-16A. Israeli Air Force. The model has armament probably unheard of in real conditions, but that was the wish of the person for whom I made this model. The IsraCast set is very demanding and forces many model revisions around the vertical stabilizer.
    3 points
  8. This aircraft was built from the Eduard premium kit with supplied brass etch and masks, only addition I made was the map in the cockpit. Painted with Mr Colour lacquer paints used with 400 leveller thinners. This interesting camouflage schemes were rendered on the aircraft of JG 54 by the unit’s ground personnel in the summer of 1940. They applied vertical to diagonal lines of RLM 71 in an attempt to darken the light blue fuselage sides. The standard scheme of 02/71/65 was applied, along with the quick identification attributes. The period scheme was applied to Yellow ‘13’, with which, on August 12, 1940, Lt. Josef Eberle managed to cross the Channel and belly land in France despite personal injury. The wingtips and fin of Eberle’s aircraft were painted RLM 27 Yellow, lighter than RLM 04 that the spinner, tactical number and background of the III./JG 54 emblem were painted. The bottom wing color RLM 65 extended marginally to the upper surface. Some sources erroneously identify this aircraft as an E-3. Despite having tempted fate once over the Channel, he was not as successful on October 9, 1940, when he lost his life in combat with RAF fighters. Thanks for looking :-)
    3 points
  9. Because they still can't top the original ...
    3 points
  10. Thanks all! HO-LEE-CRUP! I now have ONE WEEK and couple days to finish this model!!!!! I know I keep saying Im going to post some pics, but Ive been spending 2 to 8 hours a night on this thing, and honestly, I just havnt had time to take pics, its been ALL business and work on the model itself. Last night I finished the final spot/local touch-ups on the blue, and got the prop finished up including declas to the point of assembly which should happen tonight. I also finished up the canopy save giving it a good polishing up, and still have yet to glue on the internal handle. Next tonight I will start on the final red touch-ups. Im hoping if I hit things hard tonight I can finish the red color in the next couple days, then it will be a matter of fixing the white, then a clear coat. I hope to have the clear on before the weekend. IF I can do that, I can get the decals finished off over the weekend and can possibly start tackling the two major detail areas left to go and those are the rudder control rods/tail wheel details, and the wingtip attitude indicators. Both of these will take a bit of engineering and scratch building on my part, so I think I may even start the wingtip attitude indicators tonight.
    3 points
  11. ScottsGT

    My latest distraction

    Few updates and where I'm at. Weekend goal was to get it ready for paint. My first hurdle to jump was the salon window frame. The kit came with these "resin" frames that were way out of shape and not nearly long enough. My plan was to cut a ring out of a copper pipe fitting I had in the garage and then solder on wires and bend to fit. Well that didn't work out as planned. Even if the copper was bent correctly, it was over sized to fit into the notches of the window frame. Slightest bend, and the solder broke loose. Even pre-bending was a miserable failure. So I cleaned up the rings I made from copper and then just glued them directly onto the window. After the glue (Formula 560 for R/C aircraft canopies, a white glue that dries crystal clear) set up, I made frames out of Evergreen stock. In place All taped up and primed. Now I think it will have to sit a few weeks. I go on vacation next week and I have quite the laundry list to do around the house before leaving. If I can sneak some time down to the garage, I'm hoping to get the base color applied so it has time to cure while I'm away.
    3 points
  12. The plastic side of last weeks arrivals. Something to do with Vietnam, it seems.
    3 points
  13. If Kiwi Guy #1 got the bits back to Kiwi Guy #3 before Friday, who then gave them to Kiwi Guy #5, who Kiwi Guy #3 works for, he could pass them to Kiwi Guy #4, to get some casting done next week. Confused yet?! Realise it’s not likely in that time frame, but still a possibility for a quick turnaround and cost savings. Just sayin’...
    3 points
  14. While it is true that Hasegawa did release the F4B-4, P-12, BF2C-1 and a P-26 early on, they abandoned this genre for WWII fighter planes with an significant representation of Axis types. In the ensuing decades the original yellow wing series has been re-released but never added to. I would suggest the reason is sales.
    3 points
  15. Madmax

    MiG-23ML in Angola

    MARU5137, you certainly are a great supporter. Thank you! This project is now complete. It has been a wonderful learning experience, as most models tend to be. I now understand the shapes and sizes of the parts that make up this marvellous Cold War fighter, as well as some insight into the colour scheme they wore in Angolan service. This will all stand me in good stead as I tackle the illustrations for a book about a Cuban pilot's experiences in Angola. Here it is in soft detail, but please shuffle across to the Ready for Inspection side to see more. Cheers, Sean
    3 points
  16. Couldn't wait Ok, now to call it a night. Carl
    3 points
  17. red baron

    F16 D BLOCK 52 academy

    my last built , enjoy :
    2 points
  18. Howdy folks, Our own Chris Nicoll reviews the latest P-51D exhausts from Model Monkey: Model Monkey P-51D 3D Printed Exhausts with Shrouds Thanks, Chris! Kev
    2 points
  19. 2 points
  20. It's all harmless banter while we wait on the platform for the next train. It's true that we've never had it so good. On the other hand, if there was a paucity of 1/32 we'd still be buying 1/48 and spending much less. Tony
    2 points
  21. Since you asked ... As of this morning. I counted 52 boxes, some of them doubles or trebles of the same kit ... And of course, a lot of resin kits, with rather bland boxes (Luckily, I have framed my pic so that the other members of the stash don't show up. I am smart, am I not ? ) Hubert PS : + two Gee-Bee R1-R2 currently on the workbench ... ... and two finished ones, Fisher's ST-M and the Nieuport Sesquiplan ...
    2 points
  22. Well it all arrived today Bruce's advice above is perfect, you must remember i have never held an airbrush before and only watched tutorials on Youtube, i have to say i'm pretty amazed and pleased with myself that I got the results i did with my first 20 drops of paint, RAF interior green sprayed on Airfix Typhoon extras I even managed to get a mottled effect without even trying haha what a dream start cant wait to continue my education, any advice will be welcome, i might add to this thread as questions arise
    2 points
  23. gmctaggart

    Spitfire MK.IIa

    Geedubelyer, Thanks for your links. This is helpful to understand the origins of the kit design. It truly is a challenge to make an accurate representation of a specific warbird but perhaps that is where the art comes into the project. Building something that evokes an emotional response. I have decided to keep the build relatively economical so I am only going to pickup a pilot to enhance the AC. Since the aircraft will be wheels up, It seems a waste to super detail the cockpit with some AM. It will just be covered up with our new friend. With that said I still will correct a number of the faults as outlined above and scratch various other items. If anything, it will be good practice for future builds. So a quick update. While I wait for the pilot to arrive, I have started doing a number of sub assemblies and clean up. I can't get too far as I will really need to build the pit with the pilot in hand to ensure everything fits properly. I assembled the seat and and adjustment mechanism. I have added a thin card for the armoured plate as well as some some arms to hold the top portion of the seat. I have left the seat separate so I can paint this easier. I also didn't modify the back rest as this will covered as well. I have also made some adjustments to the spinner. This was glued to a spare sprue and then put in a Dremel. Carefully reshaping the surface to something closer to what I can see in photos of an MK.II. This is definitely not accurate but I think it is better than the pointed version that came with the kit. Finally knocked back the tape detail on the fabric surfaces. I am happy with how its progressing and once I get some paint down it should start to look the part. A couple of questions. 1. Is the plumbing in the Spitfire painted the same as the interior green or is it copper and black as the restored aircraft seem to show on the web. 2. It sounded like the MK.II did not use the tail to mast arial but from the fuselage to the horizontal stab. Should the tail be cleaned up of the arial attachment point. Thanks everyone for your comments and feedback so far. As ever feel free to let me know if I am off track. Gord
    2 points
  24. Hello everybody. The German main battle tank Leopard 2A7 in 1:35 of Meng Models, with 2016 detail-set of Perfect Scale models.
    2 points
  25. Excellent idea! I have some on hand too. Once I learn from someone who knows how to do this properly, I will test the process on both the heavy duty aluminum foil and the chrome bare metal foil. Speaking of aircraft mirrors, the photos below were taken at the R.A.F. museum in Hendon, London. I'm looking in same mirror that Sir Douglas Bader used!
    2 points
  26. Time for an update! Yes my post is intentional and sincere Ron
    2 points
  27. I know you are suffering burn-out but still I tend to wonder why another typical example of the single-engined German fighter of the type that has been produced ever since Aurora first brought their 1/48th FW-190 in 1954 myself? IMHO, if Kitty Hawk is to successfully follow in the "footsteps" of Williams Brothers and later on Hasegawa in 1/32 releases, then they really should focus on subjects not typically available from Revell, Hasegawa (and that I already have in my stash), etc. As an example, back in the late '60's a popular scale modeling magazine did a survey as to which subjects their readers would like to see the most in 1/32 scale. They then published their answers and Hasegawa "stepped up to the plate" and in 1971 released their large scale "yellow wings" series starting with the P-12E and F4B-4, and the rest is history. So why isn't Kitty Hawk listening to us like Hasegawa did nearly 50 years ago?
    2 points
  28. They are releasing decals for 97 Dr1s. This is something if you consider only about 320 Fokker DR1s were ever produced.
    2 points
  29. Now that's interesting news, and I'll look forward to seeing what he comes up with. I have at least one sheet (possibly two) of 1:32 Dr.I's from him already.
    2 points
  30. I was just thinking the same thing! Ron
    2 points
  31. Here are the results of my foray into metal polishing. This can definitely work. I need to seek out a knowledgeable expert on metal finishing in order to do this right (achieve a true mirror effect) but this experiment proves that this isn't a dumb idea. Check it out... Below is the reflected image of my cellphone in the polished foil. This is worth pursuing. Greg
    2 points
  32. Tan Model? never gonna happen. KH: FW 190A-5: cash cow, maybe, if they beat ZM to the punch and are seriously cheaper. And Tamiya is not jumping in the race... A link to the ZM efforts, dates back from 2014 (rumours in 2012!!) and I think it indeed has something to do with the F-4 Series in 48-scale. Those are quite spectacular (I think). https://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/2860-z-m-fw-190-series-in-132/
    2 points
  33. Thank you Gentlemen! Two days of leave left and I am now steaming ahead to get this project complete. Here is final look at the paintwork on the nose and the intakes. Over the satin coat as well as the light 5% mix, I used oil paint to highlight the fastener heads on the avionics panel on the nose, as well as green oil paint to recreate the marks on the side of the intake where the chalky green paint was scuffed by ground handling. I have rubbed some 7B pencil "dust" onto the upper brown paint of the intake, as well as the splitter plate to give it the glossy dark tone it appears to have. And that's that. Just for fun, here is the ejection seat. Aires magic. 7B pencil dust buffed onto the headrest to get the patina right. The acid test of this model was how it would sit on its gear. I struggled my backside off to get these glued into place as there are four points that need to be accurately positioned and glued AT THE SAME TIME! Eventually I figured epoxy was the way to go, and after some contortion they are in. Phew. The happy news is that this supersonic combine-harvester sits comfortably between the pregnant dragon MF and a tippy-toed ML. No bricks required to adjust the stance. Now, where is my glue...
    2 points
  34. most small details are on, as the antenna wires, step etc. i am just missing the inner wing pylons and a fuel tank... and the nav lights 65 by karl holubar, auf Flickr 64 by karl holubar, auf Flickr
    2 points
  35. LOL....Yup, but I think I know what you mean! OK, Kiwi guys 2 and 3 came through and I have the box of printed cockpit parts in front of me here.....literally just got delivered and I am about to leave for work. I will take it all with me (with the kit) and see if I get time to do a quick report. But initial impressions are....WOW. In fact initially I am struggling to see any print lines at all well, unless I get my magnifier out. Stand bye all, I gotta get ready for work!
    1 point
  36. Madmax

    MiG-23ML in Angola

    It is indeed Kagemusha. I think they (Aires) really hit a high point with the resin for this kit. I will be purchasing another KM1-M seat to see if a MiG-21 MF kit magically comes with it! Thanks Tim, as was your story about the fishnet stockings! It has been my pleasure Paul. Cheers, Sean
    1 point
  37. Well done Karl. This is clearly not a conversion for the feint hearted! Pleased to see you enjoy a bit of weathering too... Sean
    1 point
  38. This is the Hasegawa 1/20 Ma.K. Grosser Hund
    1 point
  39. Hello, friends! Today we would like to please you with long-awaited news. These are two propellers - Garuda and Reschke for German aircraft. Below you can see a list of airplane types these propellers fit to. To make an order, please visit to the site www.properplane.com. Garuda • Fokker E.1 Early (32021 B D) • Fokker E.II/early E.III (32018 D E) • Fokker E.III Late (32048 A D 32802 A) • Fokker E.IV (32029 A B D E) Reschke • Albatros B.II (32046 D E) • Jeannin Stahltaube (32058 E) Have a good day and happy modeling! Your Proper Plane
    1 point
  40. LSP_K2

    Revell 1/144 AN-124

    This is terrific.
    1 point
  41. I was also disappointed with the first set of one part exhausts/shrouds. I would like to try again. How can obtain the new shrouded exahausts (2 part)?
    1 point
  42. I'd probably have to pony up for an F-111, were one ever released.
    1 point
  43. Thanks for the review. Will have to get some of these.
    1 point
  44. Max von Muller: Otto Pusher Biplane No. 1127 (6-18 Aug 1914) LVG B.I (9 Oct to 19 Dec 1914) Albatros B.I (20 Dec 1914 to Apr 1915) LVG C.I (May to early August 1915) Ago C.I No. 94/15 (Early August 1915 to April 1916) Fokker E.I (April to mid-May 1916 - it's possible that this was actually a Pfalz E.I) Fokker E.II or E.III No. 111/15 (mid-May to 30 Jul 1916) Halberstadt D-Type (22-31 Aug 1916) Albatros D.I (16 Sep 1916 to 19 Jan 1917) Albatros D.III No. 2044/16 (Late Mar to mid Jul 1917) Albatros D.V No. 1154/17 (24 Jul to 28 Oct 1917) Albatros D.Va 5405/17 (Dec 1917 to 9 Jan 1918) Emil Schaefer was paired with Freiherr von Grote in Kasta 8. Kurt Wolff was paired with Lt. Hartmann in Kasta 26. Eduard Dostler was paired with Lt. Paul Dorr and Lt. Hans Boes in Kampfstaffel 36b.
    1 point
  45. What do you think of this idea... - use a Dremel tool with buffing wheels and aluminum polish on the glossy side of household aluminum foil wrap - cut, trim with hobby knife or punch out mirror shape from the polished foil - use Future Floor Polish to glue the foil to photoetch mirror or scratch built mirror - coat top of foil with Future for glass effect and seal foil
    1 point
  46. These two photos next to each other, really illustrate the difference between the two models.
    1 point
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