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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/13/2019 in all areas

  1. 29 points

    ICM Polikarpov I-153

    G'day everyone. Here's my rendition of ICM's I-153. Very nice build. Good detail, nice fit, but their soft, flexible plastic made for interesting alignment of the long thin wings. It's built almost out of the box, eduard etched seatbelts (I wasnt a fan, and will stick to HGWs belts in the future), and Quickboost exhausts. Painted with MRP paints and rigged with EZline. Denzil
  2. 28 points

    Left over Ju 88 parts

    So...what to do with all those 1/32 Ju 88 noses left over after building a few Aimes conversions.... Hmmm, well, this is what I came up with A museum vignette. I had a bit of fun making this.
  3. 26 points

    P-47D Kinetic 1:24

    This time the model is in NMF finish P-47D from Kinetic 1:24 scale If you decide on this model, remember that you need a lot of shelf space.
  4. 25 points
    evening boys & girls ..time for a nose job... ..this is one of the two detatchable panels that sit on top of the engine.. ..step 1 was to prepare the surface so it's nice & smooth and to mark the centreline.. ..then a sheet of soft aluminium was prepared by adding the row of rivets that go along the seam where the two panels meet and the fastener positions that run along the centreline on each side... then this was taped to the centreline... ..you can see rivets along the bottom scrap edge where I ballsed this up once already.. ..then the sheet is burnished down to the cowling with balsa blocks and in some areas around the nose where the curves are most acute, with a ball pein hammer... ..masking tape is used to hold the panel taught where it should be as the surface is worked from the straight edge centreline, to the outer curves.. ..soon the panel is roughly done and the borders appear as raised edges.. ..the masking tape is removed to see whats what.. ..the panel is then trimmed & fixed with contact adhesive, using the centreline tape to as a hinge to keep it's relative position and the overlaps start to get filed / sanded away.. ..with both sides done and the surface sanded smooth to remove irregularities (like glue highspots), the rivet detail was gone over again.. ..with the fastener details defining the lateral rivet detail position, tamiya tape was laid out to set out the spacing - interestingly these rows of rivets are perpendicular to the A/C datum, not the cowling which is tilted slightly downwards... ...also the hatches had been let into the structure by taping them down and tracing the outline with a new scalpel blade with the waste later removed.. ..once complete another burnish to get everything nice & recessed and a wire wool clean up.. ..lower cowl next... TTFN Peter
  5. 23 points
    Greetings everyone! I have been around the site for quite some time following posts and WIPs so I thought it was about time for my first large project. The following WIP will be my first in the 32nd scale and the first one in Large Scale Planes! As the title shows I will be trying my luck on an F-14B, based on the Tamiya 1:32 kit. Initially I was thinking of representing aircraft 105 from VF-41 with full low visibility colors however I changed my mind during the summer after seeing some wonderful shots of an F-14B 1:32 scale with the VF-102 Diamondbacks decals form Fightertown Decals. The decal set was particularly difficult to track, as it is out of print, however I managed to find a copy in a Japanese online store and in perfect condition no less. The aircraft that will be represented, flew with Diamondbacks during the OEF campaign in Afganistan in 2002. I will be using the 2003 version of the Tamiya kit which includes some updates in comparison to the 1994 and the 1980 versions. Also the following after market sets will be used accordingly: -Teknics ΤΚ32012 F-14B Tomcat/Bombcat Cockpit Superset -Teknics TK32013 F-14B Airframe conversion set -GRU-7(A) ejection seats from Avionix cockpit set BLC32039 -Aires 2099 F-14B/D Tomcat exhaust nozzles -If it is possible to get my hands on the exhaust nozzles form the 1:32 Tamiya F-16 they will be used instead -Hadmodels 432003 F-14B/D Upgrade photoetched part set -Crossdelta CD32002 F-14 Step area & Stiffeners -Master Model AM-32-031 F-14 Alfa Probe & Angle Of Attack probe -True Details TDP32202 1/32 F-14D Tomcat Resin Wheel Set (Late) -Eduard 32144 F-14A Tomcat exterior photoetched part set -Fightertown Decals 32009 VF-102 F-14B "Diamondbacks" OEF -Armament from the kit or Tamiya's F-16 The construction began with some modifications to the airframe around the cockpit area and the nose. Tamiya's mold in general includes not only raised lines but some panels as well. Initially I thought it was a mistake however it seems that very early Tomcats did have those. I could not find photos form both sides however at least on the right it seems that the panel was raised for some reason. In later photos these areas are not raised, so they were sanded down. One thing that is weird is how Tamiya chose to represent the refueling panel. In the kit it is neither closed nor open so since I would not doing it open it was covered with epoxy putty and sanded down while afterwards the panel lines were rescribed. Next, a characteristic electronics panel behind the cockpit was rescribed adding a bit of detail. An area on the Tamiya kit that can be improved are the NACA vents. The kit provides the correct gun vents for a late Tomcat however they are provided as one piece with the airframe. Using a rotary tool the plastic behind each vent was removed, the thickness of the leading edges was reduced and Evergreen plasticard was used to restore them. Eduard's PE was used for the gun muzzle blast fairing. HAD models PE set provides a replacement for the grills beneath the aircraft's ladder so the kit's detail was removed using a rotary tool. After the PE was in place, the area was rescribed and epoxy putty was used to restore the raised detail. The gun gas exhausts are provided in a slightly wrong position by Tamiya and because HAD models provided PE parts for the re-enforcement plates around them I decided to change their position. The old exhausts were filled with CA and sanded down while on the new positions the kit's plastic was thinned from the inside and new ones were opened accordingly. Initially the PE parts for the re-enforcements were used however I could not get them to glue properly in place so off they went! Two new pieces were created by using Evergreen plasticard and glued in place. Also HAD provides two pieces for the grills that are found inside them which were used. Eduard's set provides some nice details for the ladder in order to be represented in open position so it was the next area I started working on. Unfortunately Eduard provides a simple improvement to the kit's piece so a few additions were deemed necessary to be included. I worked based on photos of the real aircraft while Kai Wolter's exceptional F-14 build has been of great assistance and inspiration as well. Eduard's guide was not followed. Instead the two main ladder parts (1 and 2 ) were used to sandwich a piece of Evergreen in order to increase the thickness of the ladder while the PE steps (parts 73) were not used. Evergreen was used to create the two steps and to add the various small details. Parts 12 and 13 were used to create the handle mechanism. So ... that's about it for this time. Thanks for your interest! Andreas
  6. 23 points

    1/32 HS Buccaneer

    Okay, here you go The Dakota. Anyway, back to the Buccaneer. Some more progress has been made The 1/48 Airfix kit helps to see if I'm on par with the general shape. Nose fold detail.
  7. 18 points
    Today update.
  8. 15 points
    So after hearing Chuck and a lot of other modelers talking about Tamiya's X-22 gloss if figured I would give it a try and it's fantastic. I think it's the best I have tried for sure. I used Mr. Color leveling thinner to thin it and I think getting the 50/50 mix correct is important. I thinned it a bit much when painting the bottom which didn't turn out as glossy as the top. I ended up respraying the bottom with the correct mix and all was well. I also have the F-4 stencils from both AOA Decals and Cam. AOA's decals are by far the most detailed set I have seen on any aircraft. In fact, it's daunting with the amount of stencil required for F-4J. The F-4 had several different ejection seat triangles stencils and the Cam set had the ones that were on my aircraft. I used those and the 'danger' part of the intake decal. It took me a week working a few hours at a time to get this thing stenciled up. My only complaint, and it's a minor one, is that every single stencil marking is a separate decal. There are as much as 7 separate stencil decals on one square inch of the model which added to the time consuming process. Time consuming or not, these are just amazing and a must have if you are doing a F-4B or J. Thanks for making these AOA! I only have a few old photos of the aircraft I'm building and some of them show a fairly weathered bird. I think because this was on a ship really dirtied it up a bit more than what I saw with other Vietnam era F-4's. Because of that, I'm assuming a lot of the stencils were wore down although it seemed they were still visible on a lot of weathered aircraft. I decided I would use all the stencils provided but sanded them down to give it the worn look. It tool a lot of time to do since you have to go slow and use a soft grit sandpaper so as not to rip them down completely. I think it came out ok for the most part. I think this angle give you an idea of how smooth and glossy the X-22 is. Some wing stencils before sanding. P.S. You will notice that there is a crack where the intake meets the airframe . Apparently I didn't get enough superglue there so I had to fix that. Always gotta be something! After sanding, what do you guys think? The kit decals were terrible, it was like trying to decal with wax paper they were so thick and would't go down. Even after spraying them with decal sealer they still broke apart a bit. The canopy decals for the names were even worse. Luckily I was able to save it since this was all I had. Sorry for the crappy photos guys and I totally forgot to take pics of the bottom. My good camera is down and this thing is so big it's hard to photograph. I forgot to mention that I painted the intake leading edges aluminum. The instructions say red but it looked like metal to me in the limited photos I have, most of which are black and white. I could be totally wrong on this one. Some of you with a keen eye would notice I changed the tail number from 01 to 02. I was originally going to build 01 but I got confused when I drew the masks and it was a lot easier to change the tail number rather than repaint all the others. Brandon Wood actually caught that little detail! The original 01 aircraft was shot down by a sam missile after it shot down two enemy migs. The pilots had borrowed aircraft 01 so the kill markings were applied to their aircraft 02. Does anyone know if the kill markings were applied while they were deployed or when they returned stateside? Seems I remember reading they were applied while deployed but I can't find the source again. Thanks for stopping by fellas... Bryan
  9. 14 points
    A few months ago I began working on detailed drawings for a number of ordnance items, as well as all new drawings for an F/A-18. The drawings are based off of personal photos, measurements, drawings and technical information from Boeing and Navair. This past week I completed the drawings for the SUU-62 center line pylon, SUU-63 wing pylon and the BRU-32 bomb rack. Out of curiosity, I decided to pull out a pylon from one of my Academy Hornets and the difference was a bit more than I expected. There are several modelers that have and will continue to build the kit as it comes out of the box, which is perfectly acceptable! However, there are also several modelers that like to know this type of stuff, then decide on their own if correcting the parts is worth it. This is just a general FYI in case you fall into the latter category. Obviously, the orange outline in the kit pylon. The yellow outline, as well as the completed pylon are based off of measurements of the real item.
  10. 13 points

    HK 1/32 B-17G 96th BG WIP

    Well folks. the end is dangerously close! This will likely be my last work in progress photo before she's complete. One wing is done, and the other will go under matte coat today. Weathering, little bits, and it'll be complete! She's looking like she'll be done for the IPMS Great Plains show on Saturday, Sept. 28th in Loveland, Colorado, USA. I'm looking forward to showing her off! If I am able to get her done this week, I will try to sneak into work next Monday to take some more professional photographs in our photography lab. 70887941_10103079334765662_8044854618812841984_o by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr Stay tuned! - Dennis S. Thornton, CO USA
  11. 13 points
    So, some more work on the wing conversion this weekend, with the early 109's having longer wing slats and no guns in the wings some work is required, Alley Cat supply replacement resin slats and internal extension piece so a little sugery is required on the upper wing. Got to say the fit of the Alley Cat resin is excellent so far on this conversion, after studying many pictures of early 109's most had there wing slats retracted so I will be going this way on my build. Next up was to remove the upper wing gun hatch, decided to tape around and then sand off the reaised detail til I was remocing the tape as well, some panel line filling/ re rivetting needed but I will wait until the wing assembly is complete. Needing to start thinking about closing the wing halves together I decided to turn my attention to reworking the wheel wells to try and replicate the canvas side walls, after looking at several pictures I decided to use Tamiya masking tape and then add Archer resin decals to add the zip and stiching details, these where from there weld bead and fasteners sets. Not quite finished but nearly there, time consuming but hopefully it will look good under a coat of paint? Regards. Andy
  12. 12 points

    Mi-24 in Angola

    Thanks Kev and Brian! Marcel, I am very fortunate indeed, and Nick has (jokingly I think) spoken about a CNC machine more than once now - can you imagine... Here is a little update on the process I have been using to get a weathered finish. Please feel free to comment about the process as I'm sure there are better ways of getting to the end product. Firstly, I dabbed masking fluid onto the upper surfaces with a torn sponge. I then spray a very diluted mixture of white, desert yellow and bit of clear as a "binding agent". This is to create some texture that looks like sun/rain damage. Since the gloss from the decal layer is still mostly in place, I now do panel line washes as it is still easy to wipe away the excess. Then a layer of matt of your own preference. Must be acrylic if you want to do the next two steps... After applying a layer of mig's odourless enamel thinner on manageable panel areas at a time, I painted on "rainmarks streaking effect" and worked it onto the surface as per Miguel's tutorial video's. Then finally, a bit of oil paint streaking and grime according to taste. I tend to under-do this and will possibly still add some more later. After spraying micro flat on the rotors, I found that the hubs became too dull. In an experiment, I rubbed some of the mig Gun Metal pigment onto the hub with an earbud, and then gave it a bit of a polish. Much better in my opinion, and I then used it on all sorts of bits that need a shine. Useful stuff! Now for the final assembly and exhaust staining...
  13. 11 points

    1/32 HS Buccaneer

    Hi everyone, I'm new here, and would like to share one of my current projects. I'm part of a group of enthusiasts that's busy with the restoration of the SAAF Buccaneer (Serial #416) at Air Force Base Ysterplaat in Cape Town. After spending years working on the actual aircraft I realized that the rather rare 1/32 Aerodynamics vac-form kit I have, does not quite measure up. So, decided to scratchbuild one. I did build this one before this out of alluminium litho plate as a once-off. Started with this new one, of which the fuselage will be made mostly from self made styrene vac-formed, photo-etched and resin parts. Here's some pics of what I have done so far. Hope you enjoy this build
  14. 11 points
    Thanks Juraj! It's still getting refined, but it looks like a B-17! Thanks Brian! The other half is in print now along with a resin version just to see the difference. Thanks mate! Hi D.B. Thank you. At this stage I am not planning on selling these, for many reasons. In the future I may, but what I've created here doesn't solve everything, there's still quite a bit of modelling that one would have to do to complete the conversion. I'm not sure where Alex (Fencer) is at with his design; he has hinted at the possibility of selling his....... Thanks mate, Hahaha, I wish! Even now I can't really afford the time to do what I'm doing here, but I love the B-17 so I'm finding the time from somewhere. Quick update, I've added the windows so you can better see how it will look. The other side is in print now and I also have a resin copy getting built on the Photon, so those comparison photos will follow soon...... This is literally straight off the printer, so there's no clean up except to remove the raft......... Cheers, Craig
  15. 11 points
    And the undersides. The black areas are primed for the Alclad Duraluminum. This view shows the dihedral angle correction better. More photos to follow in a day or so...
  16. 10 points

    Make the others jealous

    And now ... we get to the GOOD story. Every now and then ... you come across one of those bargains ... Where the seller either doesn't know the value of what he/she has ... or really just doesn't give a rats. ... And for whatever reason - No-one else has seen it! Well ... every week or two I jump onto e-Bay and run a couple of searches ... Sometimes for kits or other stuff I'd like ... sometimes to see what some of my rarer kits will sell for ... other times looking for Classics books. For the last little while I've been monitoring several sellers with the Me.262 4 Volume set. Going rate is about $800-$1000 AUD plus postage. A couple have sold ... and a couple more sellers have listed theirs. Bear in mind ... these values are in AUD ... not USD. Then ... about 2 weeks ago I saw an auction lot on e-Bay ... The ad reads: "Assorted books on the Messerschmitt Me.262" The thumbnail picture shows a bundle of books - and there, buried at the bottom ... are the 4 Volumes of the Classics Pubs set!! No bids ... at opening $250 ... The seller is based near Sydney ... Listed as "Collection only" with less than 4 days to go ... I'm thinking ... it can't hurt to ask, right? ... So why is he not offering postage? ... Well - all of these books will add up to - like 9Kg - which will make postage costs HUGE! ... Calculated at about $36!!! Oh really? ... well ... If your prepared to pack 'em each individually in double bubble wrap and send a sturdy box to Perth ... I'm in for the cost. You only have to send the 4 Classics books too ... I was really hoping to move the lot though, he says ... no worries - What will you accept? Well if I can just get the starting bid I'll be happy! Tell you what, I said ... How about I give you $300 exact ... you can keep the additional books and resell if you want ... and if the postage costs you less than $50 by the time you've packed everything you've made more than your original $250 asking. Deal!! ... But I'm sending you the lot ... Well ... okay then ... if you must So today this arrived: And now ... they are happy sitting with the rest of the family Happily ever after ... Rog
  17. 10 points

    F2H-3/4 Big Banjo

    A little progress in the cockpit area. Seat is painted. Small details and belts still to come. Canopy details. Deck behind seat. Still some wiring to be done. Dan
  18. 10 points

    Mistel Combo

    Hi Guys, More Mistel! Here's the port engine in its new colours: lots of masking but worth it. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Masking up to paint the areas under the slats. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr With some White Aluminium plus Chrome from MMP. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr The original holes to locate the struts: I had scaled them from the Dragon 1/48 model but like all things. it hadn't been researched properly and the points are in the middle of panels, not load bearing frames or spars. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr And it just jarred on my nerves. So I re-drilled the holes, the front one just behind the cockpit rear bulkhead frame, the other two on the main frame just ahead of the undercarriage doors. The gear legs hang from this frame and the wings are bolted on top, so this is exactly the right place! Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr The original line up: Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr New line up: see how the code numbers are no longer aligned. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr As it was: Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr And now. Note I've outlined the Yellow 3 with a black marker pen, only roughly as if hand painted by a 16 year old conscript. (My mental age!) Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Hope you like it so far. Regards, Bruce Crosby
  19. 10 points
    OK, so the engine wall is now perfectly fitting inside the fuselage, a similar operation is necessary as regards the "firewall" too - but this time I will just cut off approximately 1 mm from each side, maybe something from the lower edge too - to be sure that the fuselage isn't too wide where it meets the wings, so that the correct wings' dihedral is ensured. Primed the interior too, with the Mig's One Shot black primer.
  20. 10 points
    So, the Aeromarine build has reached a major milestone... Maybe it doesn't look of much but I guarantee you it has been one of those moments, where I wasn't sure if all the work has been worth it and the parts would all fit together and line up correctly. Getting the engine mounts and the scratched struts to fit together with the upper wing. The instrument panel is in place... The radiators for the Liberty engines. Still the oil tanks aren't in place. A lot of pipes is also needed, but it's getting there... Cheers: Kent
  21. 9 points
    Tamiya 1/32 kit HGW/Real Model Wet transfer set 233906 Barracuda Wheels All colours MRP
  22. 8 points
    red baron

    P 51 D REVELL

    hello all , my last kit , another mustang .... (sorry ) : voila voila
  23. 8 points
    Some years of struggle with an old Vega airbrush and acrylics seem to pay off when switching to lacquers an my H&S Evolution Again there's not much spare time right now, so it's only baby-steps so far. I tackled the Spit's seat. The original was made of paper reinforced resin and there are plenty possibilties to paint the model seat. one single brownish colour - nope, ot for me a splotchy fnish using a sponge; comparable to the chipping technique and my favourite: brown colour and pencils! Warbird did the latter on his Tamiya Spitfire five years ago and I really liked the effect. And here's my take on it: So long Joachim
  24. 7 points
    Finished at last, though looking through the final photos I need to do some touch up around the cockpit and do something about the too shiny wheel wells. The build was ably assisted by the tweak list from the late and much missed Edgar Brooks and a lot of Barracuda resin parts. All marking are painted apart from the stencils and ES badge (thank you Sean) The subject aircraft was a Spitfire Mk.IIa flown by Pilot Officer Bill Dunn who became the first American ace of WW2 while flying Hurricanes and Spitfires with No. 71 Eagle Squadron, before transferring to the US AAF, he later went on to serve in Vietnam. After market parts used came mainly from Barracuda namely: Cockpit detail set Wing detail set Seat and armour Main wheels YAHU IP Top Notch Camouflage masks Top Notch markings masks Paints used, Xtracolor, Humbrol and Sovereign Colourcoats for the markings RB Productions seat belts, these are superb. Mistakes, all mine. The biggest let down for me was the prop and spinner, there is only one aftermarket prop and spinner available and that is far to expensive and when I last checked there was none available in the UK but I am still pleased with how the kit turned out. The worst problem was encountered when I was finishing off, the kit undercarriage is built up in two parts and one leg came apart as I was fitting it, and the holes that they fit in on the wing are greatly oversized, I had to pack them out with scrap plastic and flood the hole with CA to get a good fit. And here are the finished photos, not the greatest but the best I could manage. And here are all three of my US operated Spitfires Cheers Dennis
  25. 7 points

    Barker's Sopwith Camel 1:32 scale

    Hi all, It's done, so I thought you might like to see my 16th 1:32 scale build - The Sopwith F1 ‘Camel’. This model represents the Sopwith F1 ‘Camel’, Serial No.B6313 (later modified version), as flown by Major William George ‘Billy’ Barker, CO of No.139 Squadron, RAF, based at Villaverla, Italy during August 1918. This model depicts the later version of B6313, when field modifications were carried out to introduce four cooling slots in the engine cowl, linen covering removed from the centre section of the upper wing and cockpit decking sides reduced or removed. Modified or corrected: Cockpit: ‘Barracuda Studios’ Wicker Seat and cushion (BR32332). ‘HGW Models’ Sopwith Camel seat belts (132590). Copper micro-tubes for fuel supply to engine, main and auxiliary fuel tanks, fuel contents indicator and fuel tank pressurization. Brass micro-tubes for a pipe 4-way union, pipe connectors and fuel filter. Lead wire for gun trigger cables and engine ‘blip’ switch. Rigging wires with turnbuckles for cockpit side frame, under shield and floor bracing. Flight control cables with turnbuckles for ailerons, rudder, elevator and tail skid. Micro-tube for throttle control linkage. External after market and additions: ‘Blackdog Models’ RFC Fighter Pilot 14-18 No.2 (F32014) ‘Copper State Models’ RFC Mechanic (F32-0026). ‘Proper Plane’ wood propeller - Lang type (WP004). ‘Copper State Model’ Tools and Cans set (AE32-005). ‘Aviattic’ linen effect decal - Clear Doped Linen (ATT32094). ‘Aviattic’ linen effect decal - PC12 ‘Light’ RFC/RAF (ATT32092). ‘Xtradecal’ Parallel Stripes (White - XPS2 and Black - XPS1). Various ‘Albion Alloy’ Micro-tube (Brass or Nickel Silver). ‘Steelon’ Mono-Filament 0.12mm diameter. ‘Stroft GTM’ Silicon-PTFE tempered monofil (Blue/Grey 0.08mm diameter). ‘RB Motion’ 0.51mm Aluminium hexagonal nuts (1279-A). ‘EZ Line’ white (heavy). ‘Polak’ grass mat (Wild Meadow (4706). ‘Inperspextive’ made acrylic display case. Brushed silver, black printed - information plaques. As usual I've created a downloadable build log in Adobe PDF format, for those who might want to refer to it for reference or build details. It contains full step by step descriptions of the model build, its modifications/changes and is also supported with illustrations and reference photographs and information. If viewed in Adobe Reader, each build log has book marked chapters/headings for easier navigation through the log. My model website has the gallery page, so to view any model, go to the gallery and select it. If it has a PDF build log, it will be available to download using the 'PDF' icon on that models photo's page. The gallery will scroll through the various photographs for any particular model selected for viewing. http://igavh2.xara.hosting Mike
  26. 7 points

    Reno Mustang

    Engine is basically together. Ignore the black firewall, it'll be white soon enough. Also added the gratuitous "concept" shot.
  27. 7 points
    Dave Williams

    Make the others jealous

    Hmmmm, big MiG.
  28. 7 points

    Make the others jealous

    Ok so ... a couple more packages arrived during the last couple of weeks ... I was forced to abandon any real modelling work for about 3 years ... the stash room just became storage ... But now I'm gearing up again First I grabbed an airbrush spray booth ... and then this box arrived the next day ... Containing a new LED driven magnification lamp, with some interchangeable lenses 3, 5 and 8 diopter and optional wheel stand ... Along with a few tools ... I only bought this knife set because it was cheap and had the small Vernier ... I'll get a proper steel one later Then - a few days later - 3 packages arrive ... My new airbrush compressor with tank ... along with a couple of cheap airbrushes. I have a Paasche V/L ... so I want to see how these compare ... but basically I wanted separate airbrushes - a lightweight one with a 0.2mm needle, a versatile one with 0.3mm - 0.5mm and gun with 0.8mm ... I haven't got the gun type yet ... but the Paasche has an 0.8mm suction action and some big a$$ jars ... ready for a couple of 4 engined heavies. Rog
  29. 7 points
    hi fellas Time for a quick update. The wife is heading away for a week with the boy, so I shall have lots of spare time to invest in getting some serious work done on this - provided World of Warships doesn't interfere too much. I promise nothing.... I've started work on the "nose" as you'll see. I steered clear of cutting it off and dropping it like others before me. Fair enough if I was replicating the studio build but it's not necessary here. I realised I had cut out the backing board where the front roof sits thinking there would be something sitting in front of it - there is, but it's not what I thought. A quick sheet of styrene fixed that and I shall add some detail to it in due course. My intention is to have some pipes running back over the edge up into the cavity above it. Time will tell if that will be something that could work as the roofs will be the last thing to be glued on after the fibers have gone in. Still lots of detail to add to the rest of the surface but I am getting there slowly but surely The rear side roofs are also completed and ready to go on. They were a nice quick and easy job - well, in consideration of everything else they were Well, that's all I have for now, but hopefully the next update will be better As always, thanks for stopping by and having a look Si
  30. 7 points
    At least that´s the way I would do it! When my ancestors decided not to bother masking such areas, this, IMHO, shows efficiency in wartime. And no, I don´t think we lost the war because such things, hehe...
  31. 6 points

    F-16D Block52+H.A.F Academy 1/32

    I present to you the well-known ACADEMY kit as a Greek f-16 of 340 squadron by 115 Combat Wing. I used after market materials like as: inerior cockpit,seat belts and mask by EDUARDS wheel bays και wheels by the AIRES landing gear by the SCALE AIRCRAFT CONVERSIONS Engine exhaust GT RESIN static dischargers MASTER Decals by THREE STAR DECALS AGM-65 By FLIGHTPATH The colors I used for the camouflage were: for the fs36307 the GUNZE H324, for the fs36251 the AKAN 77100, for the fs35237 the 72043 AKAN
  32. 6 points
    Is there a thread for this? Just discovered these at WNW website. November releases. http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/product?productid=3208 http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/product?productid=3209
  33. 6 points

    Batman is human too...-1/24

    First but not last Batmobile in my little collection. It's a modification of toy. Batman is an addition to one of AMT models, The rest from scratch. Painting as usual, Tamiya, Gunze, Vallejo. Accessories is eduard and what else was lying around. Weathering is mainly Tamiya and Mig.
  34. 6 points
    Yesterday I flew to the place where SL721 is based. I knew she wasn't in her hangar because of a local Airshow (Sanicole/KleineBrogel) over the week end where I expected her to be. But I timed my stop at that FBO with the best chance to see the spit coming back home, and sure enough it was a success She came in fast and low in the overhead and broke in the pattern for a nice and smooth landing. I was able to witness the full recovery, fueling and parking in the hangar, next to the Sea Fury I already built Needless to say, I took lots of picture I needed. She still have her temporary D-Day commemoration markings, but it's Indeed Sl721. Here's one for homemade decals i'll need to print On the return flight to my FBO, I heard the B-17 leaving the nearby airshow contacting the flight information service on its way back to Duxford. I wasn't very far from him but couldn't spot him visually unfortunately. There was a lot of such traffic on that late Sunday afternoon in the skies North East of Brussels. That was a nice way to join two hobbies on one Sunny Sunday afternoon
  35. 6 points
    ade rowlands

    I have a confession to make.

    Well I sat at the bench for a couple of hours with the new Eduard P-51D. I love this kit. I can’t speak for accuracy as I’m no expert on the type but you can tell it’s a P-51 from looking at it which is fine for me. Especially at this stage of my modelling rebirth. I put Liverpool v Newcastle on my phone to watch as background noise (that’s football/soccer to those not in the know) Liverpool being my team. So in the 2 hours the match was on for I opened the bags, pawed over the kit, decided I was doing the box top scheme of Chattanooga Choo Choo, started snipping away at the pieces and before you know it the fuselage side walls are in place on both sides and all cockpit parts prepped for primer and paint. My old self would probably still be opening bags and looking at parts wondering what I could add or what needed Resin replacements. Also managed to win an eBay auction for the Accurate Minatures/Italeri B-25C\D. Now I’d been hankering over a glass nose HKM B-25 for so long they went out of production so I jumped on this one. A good day so far.
  36. 6 points
    It could be both, even on the same aircraft. Check out the hard-edged camo on the rudder and the very diffused soft edge on the tailplane/elevator of this Spit. Also note the completely different shades of Ocean Gray, much darker on the tailplane itself as opposed to the lighter shade seen on the elevator and rudder. As always, there are no absolutes when it comes to markings, you can find an exception to every hard and fast "rule" that's out there. Just look for the best, crispiest period reference photos you can, study them closely (which I find to be a hobby in and of itself) and try to recreate that on your model.
  37. 5 points

    1/24th Trumpeter BF-109

    Thanks you saved me from being the second person to post in my post MOre progress Next up the cockpit the call out is RLM66, since im using Humbrol, the closet match i found was #27 Ip was painted and i use Testor window maker to make the lenses the side walls where a bit nude so i added the oxygen hose and the blue hoses(not sure what they are for) using soldering wire while paint was drying i started assembling the wings and added the weld seam on the scoop i had cut the original barrels and installed the Master ones witch are beauties, but they have a huge flaw, they are too short! i pullled the oold barrels (thank god i never throw anything away) mesured the missing lenght, then cut the and merged them together Next step installing the cockpit
  38. 5 points

    Sopwith 'Swallow 1:32 scale

    Hi all, A couple more details. The inspection window in the upper surface of the wing, for the aileron pulley and cable. Also seen is the wing centre joint and head padding on the trailing edge of the wing centre section. Finally the wheels (not weathered yet), Mike
  39. 5 points
    If they’re going to go there, hopefully WNW will release Christiansen’s W.29.
  40. 5 points
    Howdy folks, I've just published my review of some neat Tornado decals from Fantasy Printshop: Fantasy Printshop Euro Decals ED-32120 Panavia Tornado GR.4/4A Part 2 Thanks to Fantasy Printshop for the review sample. Enjoy! Kev
  41. 5 points
    De Havilland Mosquito IIF DD739 RX-X of No 456 RAAF Squadron...
  42. 5 points
    Sorry gents but we are mixing oranges and apples here! There is reality on one side and there are the best ways to simulate it on the other one. Note that I wrote "simulate" rather than reproduce as a scifi shrink ray would do it! Hard edge RAF camo is typically excessive on a scale model (even a small one) and the contrast between the colors becomes too harsh. It simply does not 'look' right. This is part of the 'scale effect', even on a LSP kit. Accordingly, the most logical approach on a LSP kit asks for the thinnest soft edge you can spray. With a small scale kit, the only solution is the use of a mask not sticked to the surface. Discussing history is one thing but finding the most reasonable way to paint a scale model that 'looks right' is alas something else... ;-)
  43. 5 points
    Cheers Mike, I suppose you talk about the rear fuselage reservoir right? Because the front one is certainly in use. I initially planned to lower the flaps as it's possible straight from the box. Problem is that there are many mould marks Inside the flaps which arenot easy to fill and sand. Furthermore, a little bit of research told me that flaps were quickly raiied after landing because they were prone to be damaged from flying ground bits and kind of blocked these two big radiators probably increasing the chances of overheat as the aircraft is taxied. So that idea was abandonned and the flaps were glued in their raised position. the model is ready for paint and was primed with Mr Surfacer Following the discussion about hard or soft edge on RAF WWII aircraft, I analysed pictures of this restored aircraft and I came to the conclusion that the paint demarcation between the ocean grey and the dark green has soft edges but very crisp and the medium sea grey undersurfaces are all hard edges. I first sprayed the dark grey And then the dark green and the light grey for the undersurfaces: Usually I trust MRP with closed eyes but that dark grey seems a bit too dark and that green seems a bit too khaki for my project. It's certainly because i'm doing a restored aircrfat which might not have benefited from real colour batch from WWII. More on this later.
  44. 5 points

    Bf 109E-4 Hauptmann Helmut Wick

    Thanks! Saturday 21.00 - 01.30 Sunday 10.00 - 22.30
  45. 5 points

    IMAM Ro43 1/32 scratch-built

    Some details on the central part of the upper wing: Have a nice day !!!!!!!!!!!!!
  46. 5 points
    Progress is slow but steady and so the work on the cockpit parts continues. The voltage regulator on frame no.11 recieved its cables and I had to redo the head armour because the slot for the seatbelts was located too high. Then I went back to the seat and noticed an oddity with the eduard seat armour but see for yourself: From left to right: Barracuda, Tamiya and eduard - below my scratch build version. The eduard PE is ridiculously oversized and doesn't even fit the seat attachments - what the heck??? The Barracuda and Tamiya plates look the part and match up the Monforten drawings. So I made my own from 0.2mm sheet. Here it is all in place with some cleaup still necessary (the unforigiving macro shot): Note that I replaced the PE part for the ratchet cover with styrene since the PE thing didn't have any notches for the ratchet. A fine saw came to the rescue - et voilà. I felt that it was time to see how it looks in the closed fuselage and oh boy it's a thight fit with a lot of material already removed: There are still a lot of gaps to fill. The starboard sidewall for instance: it's heavily warped and will need some heat to match the fuselage cross section. The gap on the entrance is a story for another day..
  47. 4 points
    Hi All! With the engine, cockpit and fuselage halves done, there´s only one thing left to do. It´s time getting the fuselage together! But, before that, there´s actually one, last thing to do on the Trumpy Hellcat. As we all know by now, the fuselage Is a bit ”fat” , but the Hellcat ain´t fat, It´s a lean, mean cat. The fuselage should be more of a triangular shape, sides should be ”slab”-shaped and the back should be more of a razor-back. You can see that I have sanded down the sides on the fuselage formers to a more correct shape (as much as I dared to). I also had to shave off a lot of plastic (2-3mm in total) from the top as they now overlapped quite a bit, to be able to close the top seam properly. A very simple fix that takes about 10min to do, but the model looks so much better now! Unfortunatly I forgot to take any pictures, sorry. Everything fitted as it should, excellent, even if I had to apply a bit of force in places. The new Resin wheels from BarracudaCast done; A small gap in front of the cockpit that I filled with some plasticard Test fitting of the cowl, now the prop is at a more correct distance from the cowl. Trumpeters R2800 is a kit in itself and a very good one too, but it is about 2mm too long between the cylinder rows, thus the propeller also will sit too far from the cowl. With this engine I have built six of these now, I have learnt that If I shave off 2mm of plastic between the cylinder banks, the props will sit correctly. We are getting close… More to come soon! Stefan
  48. 4 points

    Batmobile 1989- 1/25

    Sooo...another Batmobile, this time legendary one Of course seatbelts: ...and new gun barrels: Let's begin First upgrades on seats with metal net: Kit guns were more like a dampers without springs but thanks to my friend I have Academy Brownings: With Aber barrel it looks like...err...gun And here is finished cockpit: Now I'm waiting only for Joker figure and ammo belts from Eduard.
  49. 4 points

    I have a confession to make.

    Well Ade you can always combine LSP and Lego.
  50. 4 points
    I'm using Hasegawa's fuselage since the dihedral angle is a bit low so I donated the Revell wings and after some cirugy for the landing gears finally it worked, Cockpit is almost done, needs some touches up here and there, aires resin with Airscale instrument decals were used, fuselage rivets are also done although not showing in all these pics yet, an Erla model wearing their usual factory camo with sawteeth on the wings and round mottling on the fuselage, also looks like it has been extra mottled in the field. Recently I acquired some wood 109 relics which will be using as reference for the colors 74/75/76 , here is the link thread if you are interested in checking it out. Cheers source: http://theprofilepaintshop.blogspot.com/2013/10/chosing-correct-wingpattern-for-bf109g-6.html
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