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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 38 points
    All- Here she is, in all her splendor! I may still fiddle with the weathering a little, but I sure am pleased. I wasn't able to get her into work today for good photos, so I snapped a few outside in the overcast with an actual camera, rather than a cell phone. I started this kit over 4 years ago, and its kind of sentimental to get this one done. She depicts my Grandfather's aircraft, 44-6888, of the 96th BG/337th BS. Her crew unofficially named her "Ragged But Right". The war ended before nose art could be applied. My Grandfather, Joseph Denver, was a bombardier and completed 13 missions at the end of WWII. He first mission was in February of 1945, and he remained in Europe until 1946 as part of the occupation forces. He flew most of his missions in this plane,and that is why I chose to depict her. This is the HK 1/32 B-17G, their initial release, with all of the bells and whistles from Eduard, Profimodeller, and some scratch building. She's airbrushed with AK Extreme Metals and Model Master enamels, and sports a combination of kit decals, Kits World, and custom J Bot Decals for the markings. Here's some photos: DSC_3323 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr DSC_3324 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr DSC_3325 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr DSC_3326 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr DSC_3327 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr DSC_3328 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr DSC_3329 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr DSC_3336 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr DSC_3338 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr I wanted to close this post with the Eight Air Force's letter to St. Peter, which is quite sobering: Let them in, Peter, they are so tired; Give them the couches where the angels sleep. Let them wake whole again to find new dawn fired with sun, not war. And may their peace be deep. Remember where the broken bodies lie... And give them things they like. Let them make noise. God knows how young they were to have to die! Give swing bands, not gold harps, to these our boys. Let them love, Peter - they have had no time - Girls sweet as meadow wing, with flowering hair. They should have trees and bird song, hills to climb - Tell them how they are missed. Say not to fear; It's going to be alright with us down here. All always folks, comments and critiques are welcome. Thanks for tuning in. - Dennis S. Thornton, CO USA
  2. 25 points
    hi folks Thanks Mark - yes, the panels are trimmed to about a couple of mm from the overlap so it's quite easy to get rid of what is needed, in fact the only problem sometimes is that the panel seam practically disappears.. though that can also work in your favour... Thanks Kag - another book - hmm, that depends on whether Kev is willing to put himself through it all again - in the case of the Spitfire book, that meant filtering all 10,000 images I had (original high res ones) to find the ones I used in my posts - that, and then all the editing and additional stuff the genius that is our Kev adds.. I suspect it's a 'you only want to do that once' experience having finished the upper cowl panels, it was time to move below, the first one to set down was marked out with 3mm tamiya tape to allow another masking tape template to be made of just the straight rear edge... ..once that was done the panel was burnished down to the front defining edge and cut out - her it is once it has been fixed down and some of the fasteners added.. ..then the remaining fasteners & rivets and a hatch was added.. ..I was going to do the panel forward of this one which has the distinctive small air intake panels with lots of holes, but found the PE ones I had made are not scaled correctly as they are too big so PPD are running me up another set - as such I did the panel behind it instead and will complete it when the PE arrives.. ..while waiting for the PE I decided to prepare & paint the wings so I can work on all the wing fillet panels - these had already been etch primed months ago so were cleaned up and sprayed with alclad white aluminium... I was a bit worried about the fragility of the alclad paint, but after a gentle wire wolling to get rid of the dusty finish, it seems to be ok with some tape tests I have done - I have had it in the past where tape just pulls up or damages the finish.. ..with that done, the rearmost fillet was planned - it looks like this and is not only a signature shape, but full of compound curves... thankfully it's in two parts - upper & lower and the seam can be seen - it's actually a weld, but I haven't figured out how to represent it.. ..using drawings I made the upper shape and worked this into shape across the fillet to get the three dimensional shape.. ..and eventually both upper & lower were added to the model... ...the fillet right at the front on the leading edge looks really difficult so back when I have worked that out TTFN Peter
  3. 14 points
    Lothar

    Revell Fw 190F-8

    The days I strived for perfection and accuracy have long gone. These days I'm just happy to finish something. This is my 5th model this year. Paints are Gunze, decals are from HAD - a bit brittle, otherwise excellent - conform to panel lines beautifully. seatbelts are from Radu (superb!). Hope you like. I've also finished a Revell P-51D which I will take pictures of later today. Lothar
  4. 13 points
    belcherbits

    Hobby Boss 1/32 B-24D

    Yeah, that's me. I have a few items for LSP fans coming out. My scale is 1/48, but I can be tricked into other scales Mike Belcher
  5. 13 points
    Thanks Jan, yes the Aeromarine is very cool. But I think you may be underestimating how little is used from the original Felixstowe kit. Almost all the parts for the Felixstowe are still present on their sprues in the box ;-) 90% of all parts have either been scratched, converted or altered in some way. Up until now the only thing I haven't 'touched' yet, is the trolley... The Curtiss F-5-L has different dimensions altogether from the F.2a, not to mention the Aeromarine conversion on top of that... F.2a Specifications: Length: 46 ft 3 in (14.1 m) Wingspan: 95 ft 7½ in (29.15 m) Wing area: 1,133 ft² (105.3 m²) F.5 Specifications: Length: 49 ft 3 in (15 m) Wingspan: 103 ft 8 in (31.6 m) Wing area: 1,409 ft² (131 m²) Just a little look back to were it all started... The extra three feet which was needed for the extended hull of the F-5-L, it was a horrendous piece of work... Sorry but I'm not sure if I would do that again. Cheers: Kent
  6. 10 points
    Brett M

    Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1 Birdcage Corsair

    Hey all. First work in progress on this site and first 1/32 aircraft. I've been wanting to build a Corsair for a long while, but 1/48 (my usual for aircraft) just wasn't big enough for the detail I'd like to add, and hopefully not screw up. I've been reading all the builds and RFI's on here that I can find and there are is some beautiful work here to compete against (). Hopefully I won't come off as a complete newb, but this will be my first WW2 aircraft, so hopefully you'll work with me. This won't be quick, since I have a day job ha! Link to some of my work for those of you that might not venture to non aircraft stuff..... So, Tamiya's kit to start, beautiful as usual from them. Vector Resin's intake flaps and engine upgrade parts. Barracuda cockpit stencils (I need better eyes for these!). Dana Bell's Birdcage Corsair book (and I've noticed Dana posts here, that's got to be helpful!. I'm hunting for HGW seatbelt's but so far, no luck on the suppliers I usually turn to. If anyone has a lead on where I can pick those up, I'd appreciate it. I'm also leaning towards using MRP paints for the first time, but I'm not really positive which colors I'll need. I'm going to plan on a two color bird, blue grey upper and light grey lower. Might go with Montex masks, or possible the HGW wet transfers...decisions to be made. Here are my selections for the main colors that I'll need to order. Please let me know if I'm totally wrong! Interior MRP 131 US Interior Green MRP 229 Dark Dull Green For the rest of the interior, I'll be using my existing supplies. Exterior MRP 130 Salmon Pink Primer for the cowling (sorta interior?) MRP 133 Blue Grey MRP 134 Light Grey And of course, mandatory pictures so I'm not boring everyone! The supplies, for now The work shop (everything else in cabinets) The overview And the other kits my wife said I should have built before buying the Corsair last week Hopefully I'll actually get some bench time tomorrow. Today has been "drill a 4 inch hole in your houses foundation day." Super not exciting. Thanks for looking, chime in and tell me where I'm off, nuts, or should go back to scifi lol Brett
  7. 10 points
    kensar

    1/32 WNW Sopwith Pup

    woodgrain done with oils A little chipping also... loading up the gun... Still slogging through the general painting.
  8. 10 points
    Thanks all! Thanks for the comments, encouragement and ideas too. I know I've been slacking here as of late, but work has been killer, and with all the question marks surrounding how to proceed with the most difficult part of the build (how to best light up the IPs and cockpit with as little room as I have) its been dragging the significant MoJo I had for this build down....................BUT that mojo is back! I finally conceded that I would have to make a few small sacrifices in the overall look of the IPs lit up to make everything work. Heres what I ended up doing: - Used 3 individual MLEDs for each cockpit; one that controls the lower part of the IP and lights up the radar scope and the 5 or 6 small instruments on the right side of the lower part, one that lights up all 15 or so of the upper instruments, and the 3rd MLED is used for lighting up the two side consoles. - I built a tiny light box for the upper IP with the 15 instruments or so in it - The lower part of each IP I used some fiber optic cable into some brass tubing, sealed with UV gel glue, then covered in MS black primer - The side console spot lights are smaller fiber optic runs powered by a single MLED glued outside of the cockpit. My first initial runs were a success, although I didnt have an clear instrument sheets in this test yet, and with it being dark, the glare took some sharpness away from the photo, but a success none the less! My fear was that if I used any of the MLEDs directly, the light would be way WAY too bright for cockpit lights, so my hope was that by using some fiber runs, I could tone the overall brightness down, and I think it worked. I started off by doing the observers pit first, since it had the most room constraints. I had to move the observers lower IP back a bit to make room for the eventual camera, but I think it will still look ok. You can see the fiber optic cables running to the lower part covered in MS black primer to cut out any light bleed: And powered up with the fiber optics.......................just as Id hoped, the fiber toned down the brightness to a much more realistic level for a military aircraft cockpit: Not perfect by any means, but still good, and will look good once all the junk goes in the pit, it may even be hard to see it all. I then built up the observers upper IP light box, putting a bit of clear fiber optics behind each instrument, and polishing the ends facing the MLED on the inside of the box. The box was then lined with polished foil to reflect the light back into the fiber tubes, and sealed up with UV gel glue and painted with MS black primer to again seal any light bleeding. Once again, far far from perfect, but I think it still looks pretty cool (even better in person than in pics IMHO): Next, It was onto the side console flexible spot lights. I made these from some fiber optic cable with a tiny piece of aluminum tubing on the end, and painted again with MS black primer: I used some brass tubing and glued it on the bottom of the pit, to light both side consoles: Temporarily installed in the rear pit with our observer/camera man to see how things looked......just as Id hoped, the brightness was indeed toned down also to a much more realistic look. I think this will also show up well once all the junk is together in the pit too................might be easier to see the lights in those conditions. Either way, it was what I was going for in a more subtle subdued light for the consoles: I also got a good start on doing the front cockpit setup too. A start on what the lower IP looks like before covering in black primer. The UV activated gel worked a real treat, and held everything together just as I wanted and filled gaps nicely without distorting the light coming into the instruments. Although with the front, I found it was better to coat the fiber optic cable with a chrome paint first, then black primer to seal the light in: This is pretty much what the IPs look like before the addition of the AirScale Mylar clear instrument sheet, and the Eduard PE: So my experimentation has finally paid off, and while not perfect by any means, its about what I was hoping for, as sometimes concessions have to be made to make things work in the ultimately tight quarters presented in the F-104Ds crapped cockpits. Im on a roll here with the pit, and I usually like to keep the roll going when Im on one, so Im hoping tonight I can finish up the lower and upper parts of the pilots IP, then I can "see the light at the end of the tunnel" so-to-speak on finishing up the pit. Once I finish that I can move onto getting the rest of the airframe lit up, which I dont believe will be nearly as hard as trying to figure out the IPs in the cockpits. Cheers!
  9. 10 points
    So I finally repainted it completely and went with the proven route of Gunze H73 & H75 Once camouflage was replaced, the roundels could finally be painted. To do that I will use Custom masks from DN models. The roundels of SL721 are not standard as the top wings roundels are larger than usual and the Bottom wing roundels have the yellow border which normally occurs only on dark surfaces. So decals couldn't be used anyway. Painting roundels are time consuming and whichever method you use you will always need to remove and replace masks. The trick is to stay centred at all costs. For the colour of the roudels I used: white, marking yellow (MRP) red is a mix of XF7 and XF68 (3/4 + 1/4) and the blue is H322 (blue angel blue) + a drop of black All colours where checked against the tamiya decals and saved for later use. First step is to backpaint a white layer. This is mostly necessary for the yellow outline As you can see, masks have been marked with diagonals to ease up the aligning process later on. The internal masks have been replaced all together on the white, then the yellow outline and red centre masks have been removed and painted respectfully in their colour The next step was a bit tedious as the mask for the yellow was a real pain to replace correctly. Once satisfied, I removed the large centre mask and painted the blue The AU J code masks where then placed. As with the roundels, I feel it's safer to stick all the masks together using strips of tape and then only remove the letter with a new sharp X-acto blade. That will ensure that the inner mask for the A will remain perfectly centred. Of course, there's no way to do that with the J in this case. Some more tape for overspray protection and the codes where painted in MRP sky. Next up are the SL721 and OO-XVI registration. That's probably the smallest masks I ever painted. These letters are very tiny but in the end came out great Spraying black I also painted the walkway lines on top of the wings It took me the full week and week end to get to this point, but the end is near for this "quick" build I'm glad for the help of DN models and the custom work they are able to do, it saved me a lot of time and trouble.
  10. 10 points
    A little update on the Aeromarine build... Oil tanks and plumbing of the Liberty engines are done, started working on the propellers. Test fitting the parts.. Beginning to look like an Aeromarine. The passenger figures have been altered and cleaned up a bit, to fit the cabin. Thanks for looking: Kent
  11. 10 points
    Vynce804

    1/24 Airfix Hellcat

    One major step closer! All of the major markings are now painted! Gloss coat next and then a few decals. Cheers. Matt
  12. 9 points
    Leaning_Dog

    Oregon IPMS Fall Show

    The Oregon IPMS Fall Show was this past weekend in Portland. I had the opportunity to attend, and while I don't attend shows very often, I must say from my perspective the event was very well run. There were not a lot of LSP's, but those displayed were spectacular. I was particularly impressed with the Tamiya Corsair. I casually mentioned to one of the guys standing at the table that the finish on this corsair was possibly the most impressive that I had ever seen. The reply was "thank you!". Turns out it was his model - with extended hand he said, "Hi, my name is George Johnson" and he spent the better part of the next 20 minutes sharing what he had done, and how he had done it. He then showed me photos (on his phone) of his 1/32 Horton Ho 229 from the Arizona Nationals, and told me the story of taking the model to the Smithsonian, and the tour he received when he was there (more photos on his phone). Thank you to George for sharing his story with me, and a big thank you to everyone who puts their models out there for all of us to see - your work truly is an inspiration. I didn't think to take a camera (like I said, I don't make it to shows very often), but I couldn't resist taking a few pics with my phone. George Johnson's 1/32 Tamiya Corsair: He also brought along this... A few other LSP's - I didn't catch who built them but they were extremely well done. I'll try to remember to take a camera next time... but you get the idea. Cheers! John.
  13. 9 points
    LSP_Kevin

    Forum Crash

    So it appears the forums crashed overnight my time. Not sure how long they were down for, but I've just pulled them out of the fire, and hopefully everything is back to normal now! Kev
  14. 9 points
    It's time to resurrect this thread from the dead! Between work and my recon Spitifre there wasn't much time lately for this Messerschmitt. But I was able to get some extra bench time during the last weekend and here's the progress: The canopy was painted RLM02 on the inside and recieved a black base on the outside. Afterwards all the fixed parts were gleud in place and the rest is held in place by Tamiya tape. Afterwards I turned my attention to the droptanks which aren't included in Dragon's nightfighter release. I used two Hasgawa droptanks - one generously donated by @Lud13 - and the other one from my Bf109F-4 kit. Luckily the braces are included in my kit, so there's no need for scratch building those. The tanks recieved the Dragon mounting strap (heavily thinned down) and fuel lines from 0.5mm copper wire. The foremost panel line was puttied since it's not present on the original. There are some small parts missing in the wheel wells but apart from that ithe Messerschmitt is ready for a primer coat!
  15. 9 points
    CruZz

    1/32 F-35A JET EXHAUST SET

  16. 9 points
    If that was my model I would kiss it good night every day. It’s that good. Cheers, Chuck
  17. 8 points
    This one sat on the SOD for a while. I built this to test/experiment with the Vallejo Metal Color paints. After the near disaster i had with the P-38, i needed to iron these out. I used The Vallejo stuff for all NMF colors on the build, but using Tamiya primer. What i found is these paints work great!! I have no reason not to reach for these as long as i don't use their primer, i used Tamiya rattlecan primer on this. There is absolutely no accuracy as far as decal color scheme goes, this was only a test!! Don
  18. 8 points
    Been a while since I posted (or even finished) a LSP build. This Ki 43 was supposed to be a quick weekend project, but it ended up taking me a couple of weeks, as I ran into some trouble. This particular boxing was one of the limited edition versions that came with a replacement resin cowl. The new cowl, while not exactly "correct", was still an improvement over the original kit part. However, that was not to be, as I found out that the resin part had either shrunk significantly, or was never quite large enough to begin with (kind of leaning toward the latter). So, I used the original plastic cowl, instead, but did a few modifications in an attempt to improve it's looks. Not sure if I accomplished that, but it made me feel better, anyway. I sanded about a millimeter off the front face of the cowl to shorten if a touch and then recontoured/opened up the opening, itself, to round it back off again. The next step was to improve the looks of the intake by building it up with Milliput and sanding it smooth. Hardly noticeable unless you're looking for it. But, again, it made me feel better. I also decided to add a pilot, but didn't want to use the "Gingerbread man" type that was originally issued with the kit (which I believe may be older than I am). I used the pilot from Hasegawa's more recent Ki 61 kit. Beyond that, I made a new pitot tube from Brass/hypodermic tubing, as well as adding brake lines made from wire. The cowl flaps are PE parts that I had left over from my last Ki-43 build, several years ago. I used mostly Model Master enamels for the main finish and took a swing at the hairspray technique to achieve the chipping I was after. I made a big painting blunder on the fuselage sides, so I ended up going over those areas again. I like the way it looked before I messed it up, even better, but it is what it is. The final step was to do some oil filters/wash. The photos don't do it justice and I found it extremely difficult to get good, representative photos of the model. It's no contest winner, but I can honestly say that it looks much better in person than in the photos (especially the depth of the finish). Oh, I also forgot to mention that all the markings were masked and painted, using the kit decals as a stencil to cut masks for the tail number. The only decals used were on the trim tab and flap warnings, which are almost invisible, anyway. A fun build, but also reinforcing my opinion that we need an updated kit of this iconic aircraft. Hope that comes soon! Thanks for looking! John
  19. 8 points
    finished at last
  20. 8 points
    LSP_K2

    Make the others jealous

    It took quite a while, but I’ve finally managed to grab another Tamiya F-4E to replace the one that I sold off a few years back. Thanks a ton, Jerry, it’s very much appreciated.
  21. 8 points
    Wheel well canvas sidewall sealed in with a coat of Mr Surfacer, pretty happy with the results so far. Also added some rivet detail to the rest of the wheel bay parts. Time to get these parts painted som the wing halves can be glued together. Regards. Andy
  22. 7 points
    Here's the final photos of the Wingnut Wings Felixstowe I completed. I had posted a few pictures earlier in the WIP Section but these are much better shots. This particular model was completed as aircraft 4291, a Saunders built machine delivered to Killinghome on 4/20/1918. This aircraft, under the command of TC Patterson abd AH Munday, shot down Zeppelin L62 over Heligoland on May 10. In July of '18, she was transfered to the fledgling US Naval Air Service, after which it was painted overall black and had spot lamps mounted under the wings for nighttime operations. 4291 came to an inglorious end (along with the US Sailor responsible) when said sailor used a match to check the fuel level in the main tank. Seeing as this beast is too big to use my regular photo setup with, I had to shoot it outside on a cloudy day. Just as I snapped the pic a fortuitous gust of wind came along. Great timing. Running up Engine 1. I chose to model her as she would have appeared just before being painted black, as the natural look of the wood and linen was more appealing to me than any of the dazzle schemes. I hope you like it and as always, feedback, comments and critiques welcome. Cheers Mike
  23. 7 points
    Finished at last, though looking through the final photos I need to do some touch up around the cockpit and do something about the too shiny wheel wells. The build was ably assisted by the tweak list from the late and much missed Edgar Brooks and a lot of Barracuda resin parts. All marking are painted apart from the stencils and ES badge (thank you Sean) The subject aircraft was a Spitfire Mk.IIa flown by Pilot Officer Bill Dunn who became the first American ace of WW2 while flying Hurricanes and Spitfires with No. 71 Eagle Squadron, before transferring to the US AAF, he later went on to serve in Vietnam. After market parts used came mainly from Barracuda namely: Cockpit detail set Wing detail set Seat and armour Main wheels YAHU IP Top Notch Camouflage masks Top Notch markings masks Paints used, Xtracolor, Humbrol and Sovereign Colourcoats for the markings RB Productions seat belts, these are superb. Mistakes, all mine. The biggest let down for me was the prop and spinner, there is only one aftermarket prop and spinner available and that is far to expensive and when I last checked there was none available in the UK but I am still pleased with how the kit turned out. The worst problem was encountered when I was finishing off, the kit undercarriage is built up in two parts and one leg came apart as I was fitting it, and the holes that they fit in on the wing are greatly oversized, I had to pack them out with scrap plastic and flood the hole with CA to get a good fit. And here are the finished photos, not the greatest but the best I could manage. And here are all three of my US operated Spitfires Cheers Dennis
  24. 7 points
    Dennis7423

    HK 1/32 B-17G 96th BG WIP

    Well folks, I'm sticking a fork in her! Head on over to Ready For Inspection (RFI) for the full post! DSC_3332 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr - Dennis S. Thornton, CO USA
  25. 7 points
    tomprobert

    Monogram B-36 Peacemaker

    I'd been suffering from a serious case of modeller's block and had ground to a halt on all my projects and just couldn't get restarted. I'd actually built this kit on and off a while back, and all it needed was painting and decalling so in an effort to restart the mojo I splashed some Halfords and Tamiya paints on and just went for it. It's far from perfect but has got me back in the groove and keen to get going on some of the other kits I have on the go so its purpose was well-served. The decals actually represent a B-36B rather than the Mongram kit's RB-36H configuration, but all I did was fill the slots for the jets and round off the prop tips. A proper B-model would have a different bomb bay set up, different tail radar and various other slight differences but I didn't want to get bogged down making any further modifications so left it as is. Anyway, here it is: DSC_0261 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0255 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0288 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0263 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0266 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0284 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0279 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0276 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0274 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I saw a real one of these in Datyon a few years back and it's MASSIVE - hence it's no surprise the 1/72nd version is also MASSIVE! Happy modelling, folks. Tom
  26. 7 points
    With the assembly and detailing of the cockpit complete I moved on to painting. The cockpit was initially airbrushed with MRP colours (cockpit grey overall and black for the instrument panels and sides). All the switches were brush painted with white acrylic while some were highlighted with yellow and red. I followed the same procedure for the seats by airbrushing the structure with grey then the cushions with olive drab and red. Detail painting was again done with a paint brush. The instrument panels were painted with NATO black and each instrument dial was individually painted with dark sea grey. I plan to use Airscale's instrument dial decals and Anyz Models' labels and stencils to further dress up the cockpit. And this is how the cockpit looks assembled at this point.
  27. 7 points
    September 20/19 As the weather starts to turn a bit colder, I start to get back to modeling and this project. I just finished the decals, which fought me every step of the way. First the problems I had sourcing decals in the first place: 1. Nobody makes decals for VFC-13 Saints F-5’s entirely in red, which are on all of their gloss black Aggressors. The only red decals I could find are for VFC-111 Sundowners, and not all of them are red. 2. The VFC-111 Sundowner decals that available are from the kit or the OOP Two Bobs 32-040 decals. Thanks again to “Dragon” (Mike) who sent me some of the Two Bobs decals he wasn’t using. However, the Two Bobs decals are a dull red and not bright red as they should be, especially on black. The kit decals, on the other hand, are very thick and hard to apply. Many of them are out of register, so you can see a thin strip of white behind red, so they were rarely used. 3. Nobody makes the big red and yellow nose number “13”, other than ProfiModeler and they only make a “01” (or “10” if you turn it upside down. 4. Nobody makes decals of the US Insignia emblem in red- or at least as far as I can tell, so I used Maketar masks for them and painted them. 5. Some placards are simply not available, like the “AF” on the tail. Oh well. Now the problems, which are mostly user error. 1) The ProfiModeler nose number was applied, but it looked funny. Sure enough, there was only a yellow outline on the outside of the numbering and not inside the “0”. In the decal package are the corrected ones on a separate sheet, so I had to tear them off, repaint, then do it all over again. Of course I screwed one up, so I had to tear it off as well and wait 3 weeks for replacements in the mail! 2) The kit decals look good on the decal sheet, but when applied to a jet black background, many out of register imperfections show up, so they had to be replaced as well. 3) The Two Bobs decals applied easily as always, but against the black background, they are not as bright red as they are on the decal sheet. Too bad, but there’s nothing I could do with them to make them better. 4) I used Maketar paint masks (USAF Stars and Bars, Vol II, 32-066) for the red insignias, using Kabuki tape versions as I did for my recent Spitfire build and Model Master Chrysler Engine Red Enamel, which was bang on the kit decals. The insignias on this jet are very small, so I used the smallest ones which are 14” equivalent, which is very close to the ones required. Unfortunately, the very small and sharp detail of the stars and bars does not lend itself to this kind of tape, so the edges of the tape were a bit ragged, as were the insignias. I had to remove them and re-paint- and also order new insignias made from vinyl instead. I had to wait for 3 ½ additional weeks for them to arrive (6 ½ weeks with the ProfiModeler decals)! The vinyl worked much better, BUT, they left some of the adhesive behind when pulled off. Normally you could easily remove this adhesive with a bit of solvent, but with fresh enamel paint next to it, I had to wait for the enamel to dry rock hard before attempting to remove. With care and microbrushes I managed to do it fairly well, as you can see in the pics below. Moral of the sad story: Don’t make a gloss black F-5E until somebody makes proper decals for it! First a minor update and another reminder that the kit instructions have many of the clear lenses mislabeled. First, the wingtip navigation lights should be GP-7, top and bottom and not GP-1. The square red lights on the vertical stab are GP-5 and not GP-7 The tiny hydraulic fluid window on the sides should be GP-9, which is not labeled at all. You can find many builds of this kit with nothing at all in these holes for this reason. And last, the two lights on the bottom of the front fuselage should be GP-1 and not GP-9, which don’t fit at all anyway. Now another small discovery. There are two holes on the bottom of the front fuselage, forward of the guns. These holes are vents which are almost always closed, so I filled them accordingly, retaining some of the oval feature of them. There is only one “decal” of note on the bottom, which is on the starboard wing, which was painted with a Maketar mask. Note that all flaps and rudder have not been installed yet for ease of painting and handling. Now a bit of a walkaround. The ProfiModeler red star is awesome for color and ease of installation, with no decal film. The kit “NAVY’ decal was OK, but a bit thick. Excuse the dust. This glossy bird is has lots of static and is IMPOSSIBLE to keep completely clean! Painting was very, very difficult, due to crap being attracted to every coat. BTW, all decals were then sealed with Tamiya X-22 to blend into the paint. This busy area has a bit of everything, with the walkway masks hand made. Yes, they should be that wide…. Thanks to the Two Bobs decals, I could install all the placards, even if they are a bit dull. The other side. Now I bet a few of you are thinking that this jet is way too clean and way too shiny. I don’t think so Tim! The end of this build is obviously near, so I have already ordered my next model subject and some aftermarket parts, which I will disclose later. Next up should be cockpit and landing gear details, the center line tank and missiles. With the engine nozzles and pitot tube installed, this sucker is LONG, so I have no idea how I will photograph it until it is completely finished. Cheers, Chuck
  28. 6 points
    Finn

    Hun on a run

    Napalm run that is: Jari
  29. 6 points
    chrish

    Left over Ju 88 parts

    So...what to do with all those 1/32 Ju 88 noses left over after building a few Aimes conversions.... Hmmm, well, this is what I came up with A museum vignette. I had a bit of fun making this.
  30. 6 points
    LSP_Kevin

    Forum Crash

    OK, I've applied a small update to the forum software, emptied the forum caches, and run a final repair process on the database. As far as I can tell, the glitches appear to have gone away now. Kev
  31. 6 points
    Bruce_Crosby

    Mistel Combo

    A few photos of the He-162 after the Flory Wash. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Regards, Bruce Crosby
  32. 6 points
    Brett M

    Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1 Birdcage Corsair

    Figured I should at least post some progress, rather than box photos and questions...... There, I've started!
  33. 6 points
    Dpgsbody55

    HKM Meteor, with T7 Conversion

    Thank you all for your very kind condolences. It's very much appreciated and as my brother's death has affected me more than I thought. Alas I've been through this before, but that experience taught me that I'll get through it again. But please don't feel too sorry for me. One thing I've learned in life is that no matter how bad you think you have it, you'll always find someone doing it tougher. That's life I'm afraid. Good bits and bad bits. Enough of this though. On with the model. After finishing the cockpit, I mounted it in the right side fuselage half, only to find that the kit supplied nose weight would no long fit. It appears that the T7 instrument panel is different to the MkIV panel and protrudes further forward. So out to the garage to find a file to make a notch in the weight. You can see how the panel protrudes into the nose weight, and the amount I had to take out. I wanted to take out as little as possible to ensure that the completed model doesn't sit on it's tail. But I finished up adding extra weight anyway into the space behind the wheel well. An old tire weight sacrificed part of itself to the cause, after persuasion from a hammer. Even though this conversion places the weight about an inch further forward and will therefore provide better leverage to make it sit on the nose wheel, I erred on the side of caution as I'd hate to have it be a tail sitter after it's finished. This will be a heavy model when it's completed. I've painted the back of the cockpit as this will also be the front wall of the instructor's cockpit which will be visible on completion. After that, the left side of the fuselage was glued into place. After this had dried, I did a little tidy up of the joint and got on with the instructor's cockpit. Here's the main components. The rear of the cockpit has already been glued on to the floor. Next up, the control column, left side and oxygen bottles were glued and that assembly taped together and left to dry. Then the right side and top coaming were added. You may notice that the instructor's seat and instrument panel have not yet been added. This assembly is pushed in through the rear of the fuselage, and it's a tight fit which is a testament to the quality of this conversion kit. The IP cannot be added as it attaches to the fuselage sides and would stop the cockpit being added, and the seat can't be added yet as another piece has to go in behind later. Here's the two cockpits glued into the fuselage. I drizzled some CA glue along the floor ribs where they butt against the bottom of the fuselage, as well as along the cockpit rear wall and fuselage sides, then clamped it all tightly into place. As is common with resin kits, one or two parts are twisted, but soaking in hot water has largely fixed this, and the clamp was used to further ensure that all was square. The instructions say that this assembly can be glued on to the HKM kit now, and the instrument panel and seat are added much later. However, I have a very delicate IP sitting around on my desk that I don't want broken and I can't see why it shouldn't be added now, so that is what I've done. Here's the panel. Those levers and that handle are too easily broken for me to leave lying about on the modelling desk. And here it is in situ. It was quite a pfaff manoeuvering it into place as it's wider than the opening in the fuselage. I also had to be careful not to break the control column getting it in, as that fowls too as you fit this in place. Here's the fuselage assembly now. At this point, I still have to add the gunsight, pilot's seat shoulder harness and instructor's seat and harness. The instructor's seat and harness can't go in yet as there's another part that slides down into the rear of the rear cockpit which needs to go in first. I'll do the pilot's seat shoulder harness when I also do the Instructors. The gunsight can wait until I'm ready to put the windshield into place, and that won't be for a long time yet. With all the weight added, this piece is very heavy and it's a good thing the joint with the HKM kit is not a simple butt joint. As Max (Mozart) has suggested, I think I'll need to consider metal after market undercarriage, and I agree that brass is the way to go on this kit as white metal bends too easily. This model will actually be 4 kits in one model when it's done (HKM kit, Fisher T7 conversion and 2 Profimodeler engines) so it will be very heavy as plastic kits go. That said, my three year old MkIV Meteor is still standing properly on it's plastic undercarriage with no sign of flexing and that had extra weight added too. So that's where the project is presently. Next up will be to make the engines and put them into the wings, then make up the fuselage. After that, I'll have to hold my breath as I chop the nose off the HKM kit, and the front off the fuselage portion of the wings. I'm not sure whether to chop the fuselage nose off each HKM kit fuselage half then glue them together, of glue the HKM fuselage together than chop it. Still thinking about that and I've marked out the cut with tape as the next picture shows. The cut will be along the front edge of the thin tape, and you can just see tape on the wing bottom where that cut will be. You also get an idea of how much monger the finished kit will be from this shot. So as I said, engines next. One day, I'll get to glue some plastic . Cheers, Michael
  34. 6 points
    Hey guys, So here's the resin version of the same .stl file done in the photon..... it just fits!!! BTW it took 13 hours to print this!!!!!!! There's some slight dimensional creepage/warpage going on with it, but the overall finish blitzes the FDM version, although it's still very useable.... And side by side.... And lastly....... For those who think 3D printing is easy and hassle free...... Human and machine error is always a possibility and the process is definitely NOT straightforward. For every successful print you see, there are likely to be an equal or greater number of failures. This one was on me; I didn't tighten the build plate securing screw properly as I was in a hurry to get the left side on to print. 13 hours mostly down the drain, although there's some salvage potential here. Nothing for it except to try again!!! It's actually a credit to the Photon that despite my best efforts to sabotage myself, it still managed to give me a mostly workable print! p.s. the stuff at the back is the supports. This has come straight out of the printer so I haven't cut anything off yet...... Cheers, Craig
  35. 6 points
    Vynce804

    1/24 Airfix Hellcat

    Hi All, Of all the models I have painted this is by far the most difficult. And it’s only one colour! There are many versions of GSB to choose from from different manufacturers and each is a little different. And in the end I decided on the Tamiya mix of xf17, xf8, xf2 in a 5:3:2 ratiowhich to my eye comes close. The difficulty is getting any depth into the finish. I like to post shade my paint and with lighter colours it’s easy as the contrast between your base colour and your post shade is not as great as it is with a dark colour such as this blue. I think I’m getting there after lots of trial and error. Ive left the paint with a touch more contrast that I would ideally like but think that will reduce with washes filters and oils but I can at least see light at the end of the tunnel! cheers matt
  36. 6 points
    Time for some colour! While I'm waiting for the F.24 camera I turned my attention to the cockpit. I started it off with a grey Alclad primer. Followed by a a satin black coat (Tamiya X-18) and aluminium for the rear cockpit. After a sufficient drying time I laid down a random base of Mr.Color C364 grey-green. With some careful belnding I ended up with a finish which is quite alive - at least to my eye. Enjoy: Right now I'm collecting all my references for painting all those tiny details. More pictures soon to follow!
  37. 6 points
    Vynce804

    1/24 Airfix Hellcat

    Hi All, ‘it’s been a little while since my last update but I’ve been steadily working on the Hellcat and think it is finally ready for paint....well after a lot of masking anyway! Cheers. Matt
  38. 5 points
    Thank you everyone for your kind comments! As shown throughout this thread, this kit isn't for beginners and it fought me every step of the way, but part of that fight was self-induced. As much as I love the gloss black finish, I will never do another one. The shiny gloss finish is a dust magnet and painting it without finding crap in the paint was nearly impossible, so I had to sand and re-paint several areas as much as 4 times! Looking at my pics, I can still see some flaws, but that's mostly because of close-up macro photography that shows every tiny thing. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it and it will be fun to take to the next model contest. Thanks, you are correct, but no Corsair. As much as I love the aircraft and know that the Tamiya kit is awesome, it has been done too many times, much like my Spitfire. My focus now is on building models that are not as well known or maybe hard to build, much like this kit and my Trumpeter A-10C and P-38L. My next model is a bit of both, so I will be building this bad boy into a Canadian Harvard Trainer. Not very sexy, but I grew up with Harvards loudly buzzing overhead as a kid and there are lots of local flying examples for me to use as references. I have already ordered a few aftermarket things like the Alley Cat rear window conversion and the Eduard Big Ed kit. If anybody has any tips or advice, I'm all ears! Cheers, Chuck
  39. 5 points
    Howdy folks, Kevin Williams takes a look at a new Jaguar book from HMH Publications: HMH Publications Aircraft in Detail #001: Jaguar Thanks, Kevin! Kev
  40. 5 points
    SB20

    Reno Mustang

    Next up is to demilitarize the aft cockpit. Once I verify the fit, I'll go back and add Archer rivets.
  41. 5 points
    Jennings Heilig

    HK Models 1/48 B-17G!

    That's what I've been telling Neil for several years I hope I'm right!
  42. 5 points
    sandbagger

    Barker's Sopwith Camel 1:32 scale

    Hi all, It's done, so I thought you might like to see my 16th 1:32 scale build - The Sopwith F1 ‘Camel’. This model represents the Sopwith F1 ‘Camel’, Serial No.B6313 (later modified version), as flown by Major William George ‘Billy’ Barker, CO of No.139 Squadron, RAF, based at Villaverla, Italy during August 1918. This model depicts the later version of B6313, when field modifications were carried out to introduce four cooling slots in the engine cowl, linen covering removed from the centre section of the upper wing and cockpit decking sides reduced or removed. Modified or corrected: Cockpit: ‘Barracuda Studios’ Wicker Seat and cushion (BR32332). ‘HGW Models’ Sopwith Camel seat belts (132590). Copper micro-tubes for fuel supply to engine, main and auxiliary fuel tanks, fuel contents indicator and fuel tank pressurization. Brass micro-tubes for a pipe 4-way union, pipe connectors and fuel filter. Lead wire for gun trigger cables and engine ‘blip’ switch. Rigging wires with turnbuckles for cockpit side frame, under shield and floor bracing. Flight control cables with turnbuckles for ailerons, rudder, elevator and tail skid. Micro-tube for throttle control linkage. External after market and additions: ‘Blackdog Models’ RFC Fighter Pilot 14-18 No.2 (F32014) ‘Copper State Models’ RFC Mechanic (F32-0026). ‘Proper Plane’ wood propeller - Lang type (WP004). ‘Copper State Model’ Tools and Cans set (AE32-005). ‘Aviattic’ linen effect decal - Clear Doped Linen (ATT32094). ‘Aviattic’ linen effect decal - PC12 ‘Light’ RFC/RAF (ATT32092). ‘Xtradecal’ Parallel Stripes (White - XPS2 and Black - XPS1). Various ‘Albion Alloy’ Micro-tube (Brass or Nickel Silver). ‘Steelon’ Mono-Filament 0.12mm diameter. ‘Stroft GTM’ Silicon-PTFE tempered monofil (Blue/Grey 0.08mm diameter). ‘RB Motion’ 0.51mm Aluminium hexagonal nuts (1279-A). ‘EZ Line’ white (heavy). ‘Polak’ grass mat (Wild Meadow (4706). ‘Inperspextive’ made acrylic display case. Brushed silver, black printed - information plaques. As usual I've created a downloadable build log in Adobe PDF format, for those who might want to refer to it for reference or build details. It contains full step by step descriptions of the model build, its modifications/changes and is also supported with illustrations and reference photographs and information. If viewed in Adobe Reader, each build log has book marked chapters/headings for easier navigation through the log. My model website has the gallery page, so to view any model, go to the gallery and select it. If it has a PDF build log, it will be available to download using the 'PDF' icon on that models photo's page. The gallery will scroll through the various photographs for any particular model selected for viewing. http://igavh2.xara.hosting Mike
  43. 5 points
    Hey Guys, It's been a while since my last post. With all the resin copies done, I did a quick test fit the parts of on the Italeri IIIE kit. The fuselage was simply held together by masking tape and some spots of superglue, no filler either. This because I have other variants I want to make using this kit. The kit decals are not accurate, so I'm having the correct ones printed Cheers, John
  44. 5 points
    So, the Aeromarine build has reached a major milestone... Maybe it doesn't look of much but I guarantee you it has been one of those moments, where I wasn't sure if all the work has been worth it and the parts would all fit together and line up correctly. Getting the engine mounts and the scratched struts to fit together with the upper wing. The instrument panel is in place... The radiators for the Liberty engines. Still the oil tanks aren't in place. A lot of pipes is also needed, but it's getting there... Cheers: Kent
  45. 4 points
    Ok so some of you may know, I had every intention of producing a HPH Catalina in respect of this GB, and I must be completely honest, of late, I had felt a little burnt out with modelling, that and other "real life" projects getting in the way of any spare time. That said, I am now coming out to play but for various reasons I cannot do the Catalina as intended, (bearing in mind the 32 Sig table theme for Telford was Navy) I have now committed to producing the HK version of the Dambuster Lanc which Neil at HK has graciously made available for my to build in time for Telford. I now have approaching 5 months rather than the 5 weeks I had last year so hopefully I can 1. produce some sort of WIP as required by this GB, 2, savour a little more of the engineering involved in this kit and 3. produce something resembling the famous aircraft. OK so, the kit goes without saying, It is HK's brand new not quite to market yet, Dambuster. I will be adding only Petes Airscale panel set and replacing the kit guns withe the set from master barrels. Started the Airscale panels a while ago as a "standalone" model before even the Dambuster hoved into view. This is where I am at the start. So hopefully I can build and post as I have a very poor track record of WIP builds. Tons of Plastic. A full lancaster with the addition of the upkeep mine and launch mechanism, a second addendum to the instruction booklet and a set of decals representing Guy Gibsons famous special 464 Lancaster. Here goes nothing!
  46. 4 points
    LSP_Kevin

    What's New - 22 September 2019

    Howdy folks, I've just published the latest What's New update. Enjoy! Kev
  47. 4 points
    Thanks guys. Yes it is yellow as per the tug. Some more work. I finished the tractor, weathering it a bit more than I would like, but it has added a lot of character to the scene. I also scratch built the searchlight on the bonnet. One of the challenging aspects of this build has been getting the straps securing the buggy to the trailer right. I scratch built the hook and ratchet assembly from plastic card. As I needed a couple of these, I copied them in resin. A thin strip of Tamiya tape makes up the strap. A test fit of the strap. I painted one and rolled it up In the photo of Sean, it looks as if there is something in the stowage basket on the rear of the tug, whilst I can’t prove what was in there, I thought the rolled up strap might look pretty good, as if it has been chucked in there in case the buggy started to fall off. I glossed up the buggy in preparation for the decals, using simply THE BEST clear gloss I have ever used.
  48. 4 points
    Battlebirds

    1/32 HS Buccaneer

    Okay, here you go The Dakota. Anyway, back to the Buccaneer. Some more progress has been made The 1/48 Airfix kit helps to see if I'm on par with the general shape. Nose fold detail.
  49. 4 points
    baffozac

    IMAM Ro43 1/32 scratch-built

    Some details on the central part of the upper wing: Have a nice day !!!!!!!!!!!!!
  50. 4 points
    I'm using Hasegawa's fuselage since the dihedral angle is a bit low so I donated the Revell wings and after some cirugy for the landing gears finally it worked, Cockpit is almost done, needs some touches up here and there, aires resin with Airscale instrument decals were used, fuselage rivets are also done although not showing in all these pics yet, an Erla model wearing their usual factory camo with sawteeth on the wings and round mottling on the fuselage, also looks like it has been extra mottled in the field. Recently I acquired some wood 109 relics which will be using as reference for the colors 74/75/76 , here is the link thread if you are interested in checking it out. Cheers source: http://theprofilepaintshop.blogspot.com/2013/10/chosing-correct-wingpattern-for-bf109g-6.html
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