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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/16/2019 in all areas

  1. 29 points

    Hasegawa Bf 109F-4/trop 8./JG27 - Red 2

    It's done - I've completed my first LSP in (maybe) six years! Spending quite a lot of time with my Bf 110 for the group build, this fairly easy build here took me about for month. Some AM stuff was used: Aires cockpit - pretty nice and not too hard to fit CMK wheels - cheap but not much better than the kit offering Master MG17 barrels and pitot - must have for me! Barracuda exhausts (for a G-6) - easier than hollowing the kit exhausts Overall I enjoyed the build a lot, even with some minor problems with clean up on the wings the wing root is still bugging me). Something I will do from now on: using my Silhouette for cutting my own masks! Something I won't do again: using Mr.Mark softer (never again) and Hasegawa decals (way too thick) Enough words for now. Enjoy the show: Feel free to take a peak into the WiP Critics and advice what's there to improve are highly welcome! Joachim
  2. 28 points
    Or how I saved the first model I've built in 20 years from the trash bin. For the whole sordid story see the WIP build HERE
  3. 27 points


    Hi guys I used aires resin cockpit and ejector seats, and engines for this build, with majority of my new favourite paint MRP, the figures are Reed oak of corse. Just a bit about the build represents IN FEBRUARY 2015 NUMBER 12 SQUADRON CELEBRATED ITS CENTENARY AND THE MARKINGS APPLIED TO GR.4ZA405 INCLUDING A PANEL LISTING THE UNITS BATTLE HONOURS. ALSO SEEN HERE IS THE SQUADRON BADGE WHICH FEATURES OF FOXES HEAD FAMOUSLY ADOPTED WHEN THE UNIT BECAME THE ONLY RAF OPERATOR OF THE FAIRY FOX IN 1926.
  4. 26 points
    Modifications and additions · Scratchbuilt instrument panel (then copied in resin) · Modified kit wheels by combining kit hubs with Barracuda cast slotted tyres. · Scratchbuilt Undercarriage legs from brass and plastic (main and tail) · Added brake lines (Scratchbuilt from copper wire) · Modified profile of upper forward fuselage and chin to better match references. · Scratchbuilt rear view mirror · Added RB productions seatbelts · Modified seat with extra panelling · Modified the lower windscreen area to correctly depict the bottom edge behind a panel · Cut out vac formed bullet proof flat panel and replaced it with thick Clear sheet. · Added spark plug wiring from copper wire · Opened up small circular panel behind cockpit to depict missing cover of fuselage fuel tank, along with Scratchbuilt fuel filler cap. · Scratchbuilt waste gate vent on left side of fuselage under forward cockpit. · Scratchbuilt cowl flaps. · Scratchbuilt Pitot tube from brass. Finish and markings All markings masked and sprayed including “Hep Cat” nose art. Small stencil data from the Red Roo decal sheet. SMS Foliage green and white used.
  5. 25 points

    Wedding pics!

    Been away for a bit getting hitched (pics later) but am back at home now, just perusing the forums. Jeez, ya go away for a bit and all sorts of cool and interesting things pop up! Kinda depressing being back in the high heat and humidity after a week at 11,000 ft + temps! Looking forward to getting back in the fold ladies and gents!
  6. 25 points

    Mig-21 F13 trumpeter 1/32

    Hi alal, Here my last built : the Trumpeter Mig-21 F13 in Hungarian colours. I Used Pavla resin cockpit, Master pitot tub, HAD covers and decals. Hope you like it.
  7. 24 points

    Trumpeter 1/32nd F-100D ANG

    Here are the final set of shots taken outside on a cloudy day. Glad this one is over - largely my own fault having dropped it and that fact that Trumpeter and the UK distributor off now spares parts service whatsoever (I tried several times with both and received no response). The kit had the very extensive Eduard series of sets, Aires cockpit, exhaust and wheel bays, Avionix cockpit etc There are a number of mistakes - small tanks, early exhaust when it should be the later one. I am sure there are a bunch more. I also noticed post photographing that I have knocked the fuse extenders so that are not all equally spread. I was pleased with the effect of reducing the pin cushion divots that Trumpeter wanted to pass as rivets.
  8. 24 points
    evening all thanks for saying such nice things Thanks Jay - always appreciate you helping me understand the airframe I have made the covers but will not attatch them until much later so they don't get squashed.. Now that is an offer I can't refuse Hawk! I will definately be in touch I added the hatches & panels to the underside and rivetted - there are a number of small fragile cup shaped air scoops to be added both sides of the main structure, but I will do that much later so I don't damage them.. I will also do the doors for the oil & radiator coolant exhausts at some point down the line.. ..with that done - I need to stop skinning and get the cockpit finished & installed as the scary bit will be building up and skinning the rear canopy area. I learned from the Spitfire not to race too far ahead with skinning as when you need to do major bodywork & filler it can be really difficult not to damage it and to work around it.. so remindingmyself where I was, I found a few assemblies to do... ..first the Hydraulic Hand Pump seen here.. ..nice turned handle, a tubular & hex section piston case and some cast bracketry.. ..I made up a kit of parts - the most complex of which was the piston housing - this was done from hex brass stock on my lathe... I have so much to learn using that tool... ..the parts were painted & assembled.. ..and a dry fit to check it all fits in.. ..next the Landing Gear Control Handle.. the black funny shaped thing seen here under the vertical trim wheel.. ..this was made from two chunks of square brass stock, shaped with a cutting disc in my dremel... ..not perfect, but near enough for me.. ..and painted and it's decal added.. ..lastly, the control column and mount.. ..I actually made the column ages ago and don't know what I did with the WIP pics, but suffice to say the pistol grip was shaped from a chunk of plastic and had various fittings & the trigger added, the shaft was turned in my dremel with it's subtle taper.. The torsion tube mount thing is again ground from a chunk of brass and is very simplified as all it needs to do is represent the shapes as it all sits under a cloth gaiter.. ..it is articulated, so you could go flying ..not painted it yet, but in situ for reference.. ..should get another good stint in tomorrow so may be back soon.. TTFN Peter
  9. 23 points

    Grumman F-9F5 Panther

    I bought the Fisher Patter 1/32nd F-9F Panther in 2003 when it first appeared. This was my first resin model. It was a great experience and I used Vallejo Model Air for the first and only time as the paint was so fragile it just scratched off way too easily the end result being the shelf of doom. Roll on 2018 - the Panther is rolling around on my shelf of doom and I decide to take another look. Woe and behold I find that my lovely wife has thrown the box out with many of the kit parts in it (U/C, doors, wheels, canopy, weapons, PE sheet etc). I contact Paul Fisher and send him a photo of what I have and ask him if I can pay for the missing parts. 7-10 days later a box arrives in the post with all of the missing parts completely free of charge including the shipping to the UK. How is that for customer service! Roll on 2019 and inspired by a post in LSP discussion I decide to finish the model. If you notice the less than fine panel lines in places this was because back in 2003 when I build the major assemblies I had bought a Tamiya scriber and went a little mad with making trenches. I also lightly weathered the model and the large "silver walkways" as can be seen on footage of the real aircraft. Please note that I have fixed the hanging pylon that I only noticed when I took the photographs. The Panther was such a pretty plane.
  10. 23 points
    hello again fellow modellers Hi Jay - it's just a cheap Chinese one, but seems perfectly adequate for my needs - I just need to learn how to use it Ahh - that is one good looking Spit - but having done one, I doubt I will do another (especially as it was my favourite Mark..) They are really useful - thanks Chek, I have lots of resto shots, but very, very few of it actually finished so these are brilliant! ..I have been away much of the week, so just a little more done - but each part is one more step towards completion! ..firstly, the control column was finished & painted - I just need to work out what to make the canvas gaiter from as all the materials I have the weave is over scale.. ..and dry fitted in place.. ..next, the rudder pedals... these are in Lopes Hope... a very obvious feature is the writing on the faces ..this was taken care of by making PE parts - here the rounded shape is being imparted by taping & rolling over some brass rod.. ..soon the base pedals were made.. ..then a kit of parts assembled, including the forks that hold them.. ..I checked and only the bottom of the assembly can be seen, so all the upper gubbins was pretty much ignored.. ..and these were then painted and some light scuffing - washes & weathering will come much later... ..thats it for now.. TTFN Peter
  11. 22 points

    F-8E Crusader Trumpeter 1:32

    I started my adventure with modeling four years ago. And I wanted to show you one of the models from the beginnings of my modeling passion. At the beginning I apologize for the pictures - I know that they are very weak but I did them without studio lighting. The model is the F-8E Crusader Trumpeter 1:32, the model quite easy to build I had small problems were with the air intake. I think that you already know that I always make models straight from the box and try to present heavily exploited machines. Such painting makes for me the models are less "plastic" do not look like toys. Ovcourse it's my opinion.
  12. 22 points

    SU-25m1 Digital Grach

    Hello to all, I can finally present you my last work: it's a Su-25m1 in force with the Ukrainian aeronautics in 1/32 scale Trumpeter kit. We found a really grueling job for a lot of reasons, the Trumpeter kits are always revealed for what they are: toys designed by people who saw the real aircraft only on photos found on the net. Without dwelling on the dimensions (they are not one of those that compare the scale drawings to verify the truthfulness) and on the details sketched or completely missing, the real problems are in the joints and in the brain-splitting decomposition of the kit; a clarifying example are the gondolas that house the engines and the very long air ducts divided into two parts that leave a line in the middle that has been eliminated. The changes have been innumerable and in each area of the aircraft, the wpp monograph on the Su-25 has been fundamental in trying to reproduce the details that the manufacturer has omitted. To make this operation easier, I have also given background to everything that the market offers in the form of aftermarket. For the coloring I used the dedicated set of the Russian firm Akan with self-produced masks with the cutting plotter. The decals are a mix of the dedicated set of Foxbot (completely wrong, I think they are about 1/25 scale ...), of the Trumpeter decals and something cannibalized by the sets dedicated to the Su-27 and Mig-29 of Begemot, especially for armaments. It took nine months of hard work. Here are the pictures:
  13. 22 points

    Iconicair Supermarine Attacker FB.2

    Modifications and additions: Jet pipe and exhaust turbine face scratch built. Seat cushions and belts scratch built Height of tail increased by approx 2mm Rocket rails scratch built Rivet detail added to circumference of belly tank Added brake lines and actuator rods to undercarriage All antenna replaced with wire Cockpit access step scratch built Scratch built Pitot tube Scratch built Nav lights. Airscale decals used for cockpit instruments. Markings and finish: MRP Extra dark Sea Grey and Sky. Kit stencil data decals Small squadron crest decal custom made All other markings masked and sprayed
  14. 22 points
    Right - off to grab a small glass of vino - then back to looking at B-24 wings... Iain
  15. 21 points
    Calling this done - although looking at the photots I need to dust her again! What is it about model photography and dust? Anyhow - build thread here. Based upon measurements of a TR. Mk IX fuselage in a jig, along with original Supermarine drawings, she's taken a lot longer than planned - but hopefully my client will like her. Markings are based upon a wartime 'Eagle Squadron' scheme as a tribute to a brave young American pilot with 133 Squadron, RAF, who lost his life days before the Squadron transferred to the USAAF: Gene P Neville Back in a mo with some more (and just noticed a panel line I need to sort). Iain
  16. 21 points

    Revelamiyastang ...

    Wow ! time flies, didn't realize how long it's been since I last posted but I'm getting close to the finish line. Ray , I tried a couple of different methods for the spinner stripes and finally came up with the following. I cut a plastic disc from .020" sheet and attached it to a Dremel cut off wheel shaft. Then smashed the disc inside (blue tac) the spinner (already painted red) and chucked that into my 18volt Black and Dekker drill. Using a C-clamp so I could adjust the trigger / speed , I found I could spin the thing verrry slowly , then just hand painted the blue stripes. Turned out OK so I'm finishing up the odds and ends which shouldn't be too much longer. In these pix, the stripes are white as an early experiment I tried brush painting Aim toothpaste (with a little white in it so I could see it better) so I could mask the stripes and spray them rather than hand brushing. Didn't like it so I switched to brush painting the blue instead.
  17. 21 points

    P-40F WarHawk Trumpeter 1:32

    Model Trumpeter P-40F Warhawk 1:32 scale, Made straight from the box, the model is very easy to build. In terms of the compatibility of this model with the P-40F, unfortunately, I can't comment because I have no knowledge about aircraft from IIWW times. The person who ordered this model would like it to be heavily exploited, I hope that the effect has been achieved.
  18. 21 points
    ... is that before long you have a 1/32 scale Ki-98! A friend and I have designed this from scratch with the hope of making it into a full kit. No plans to sell it but just to see if we can do it. The tail booms are printing right now, and then the detail stuff can start getting developed once we know the airframe part breakdown is good. Guys, words can’t describe how excited I am to have this plane in large scale!
  19. 20 points
    good evening my fellow model nuts :) well, I have to confess there is no witchcraft, the pedals and the lettering on them are simple etch parts derived from the plans - the etch drawing just says dissolve a layer of metal (and create the shape) but leave the lettering untouched - bingo you get nice raised letters - I did the same on the fuel tank selector panel you will see in a minute... ..as for the tiny parts, they are just made by deconstructing the thing I want to make into simple shapes and then cutting, filing, drilling stock to get the same ingredients :) again, not a huge amount to show, but I want to try as best as possible to keep a weekly log, so this week's challenge was the collection of fuel control gubbins that sits below the main instrument panel (in fact the switchpanel below that but whatever) - seen here: ..for the central control selector I designed two methods - I had a decal made, and I tried making an etch part with all the lettering so I could paint it black and sand off the top layer to leave the letters and lines.. ..the remaining parts were made up from sheet or bits & bobs... ..these were then painted & assembled - you can see I used the etch part for the fuel control rather than the decal.. ..and they were added to the lower switch panel using templates to set the angles they all sit at.. ..and thats it for this week - told you it wasn't much :) ..need to start getting the cockpit pod ready for assembly now, at which point the weathering will be added to make it a little less toy like.. TTFN Peter
  20. 19 points
    Mr scale32

    Dornier DO-335 Destroyer.

    Hi fellow forum members, im back with a new model to show. Im truly sorry that im not have been active. I have not stopped building tough, infact since my last update here, there has been a few more models finished.. This model is the famous Do-335 Peil and in my opinion the coolest prop-driven aircraft ever made. The model is Hong Kong models Do-335 Destroyer, with plenty of aftermarked stuff like brassin wheels and exhausts, Eduard Photo etch, Model master pitot tubes and barrels and HGW belts. I also added extra details to the engines like wires and other plumings. The Loop antenna was very overscaled in the box, so the antenna was scratched completely I hope you like the model. Cheers to you all!
  21. 19 points

    Wedding pics!

    Some random pics of our wedding and the absolutely STUNNING surroundings we were in........ The wife near the mouth of the lake, with skies so utterly vivid blue it almost looked fake at the time The view outside the courthouse we got our marriage licence in The wife and I right after the ceremony at nature's altar Wife and I at the actual spot we held the ceramony at For some reason I felt the need for a forest version of Captain Morgan On the way home from said ceramony Heading up to the summit of Mt Massive@ 15,000+ Mt Massive Summit Back at the Lake after the ceremony.... The weather was absolutely perfect, as is Colorado every time we visit. Cheers!
  22. 19 points
    Hi guys, I‘ve started with some assembly and initial layers of detail. The following photos are the left side of the nose landing gear well. This detail is primarily the hydraulic tubing, and insulated environmental system tubing. As a proof of concept idea I chose to try to print sections of tubing. The aft most lines are laterally offset and have connectors that needed to be rendered. Doubting my ability to bend and fashion identical parallel line by hand as well as keeping future production in mind a printing attempt was justified. So the tube sections were modeled in CAD with portions tubing clamps at each end and sent off to my Photon. I did print three copies of each section, as it turned out, all printed successfully but one of the three was perfect. The remainder of the tubing was fashioned from lead wire. Printed fittings and CNC milled tubing clamps were placed on the side wall using a paper template made from a 2d drawing exported from my CAD software. Hours of studying photographs and tracing one line at a time, I managed to get all the pipes in what I think is the right place. That is to say, every tube end landed on a connection point, no loose ends. I know they are not 100% correct but, without a maintenance pub that shows a trace of each line....I’ve achieved a, let’s say, 98% accurate result. Here are a few more printed parts. I finally invested in a proper macro lens with a ring flash. I think the photos are much better...two problems though. 1. You can see every microscopic flaw, even though I build with layers of magnification from my cheaters down to 10x jewelers loop. ....and.... 2. I’m working on my f stops for depth of field. So far my shots are hand held, maybe a little less laziness on my part and I should use a tripod and focus merge multiple shots. Irregardess y’all ort git the gist of my progress. Thanks for checking in! Timmy!
  23. 19 points
    we now have two airframes, i'm more working on Lou IV these days ! source pics: the leading edge overlapping will be done with top wing's paintwork !
  24. 19 points
    red baron

    KI 61 hasegawa

    my last built , enjoy ::
  25. 19 points

    1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"

    Hi folks Back with a little more... I tried skinning the bottom of the airscoop in one piece, pre-rivetted, but I couldn;t get a good fit.. you can see the gap between the bottom and adjacent panel here.. ..so I decided to try it in two halves, tring to lose the join line down the middle - here the first half starts to get persuaded into shape.. ..and both halves with the skin overlap in the middle.. ..after sanding the join out, the rear of the panel is cut to shape and the waste peeled off.. ..and with some rivet details added.. ..moving backwards, two panels have been added, including one around the oil cooler outlet and a further one is waiting to be stuck down - the intention is to get all the base metalwork down and then sand, shape & refine before cutting out panels for doors etc and riveting in situ.. ..looking to lose another couple of seams, an infill panel between two outboard ones is ready to be stuck down.. ..and now this area is ready to move on to the detail stage.. until next time TTFN Peter
  26. 18 points

    Hanriot HD.2 scratchbuild

    This is my scratchbuilt Hanriot HD.2 I built for a group build on WW1aircraftmodels.com. The only commercially made parts are the engine (WNW), machine guns (Eduard), and instrument face decals (Airscale). Enjoy!
  27. 18 points
    I was inspired by a photo that I recently found on Facebook that I felt would be a great thing to make in 1/32 scale. I have been looking for a project that would be something different to the usual aircraft model, without taking me too far away from my preferred genre. This ‘thing’ seemed to have been wheeled out for special occasions and was based at RAAF Butterworth in Malaysia whilst our Mirages were stationed there. Whilst not strictly an aeroplane as such, it was based upon the Mirage and saw a great deal of action from pilots who were celebrating particular milestones. I hope it is suitable for a build log in this part of the forum. Firstly, the pic that inspired me. (Copied from the ADF Serials Facebook page). I recalled that I had seen pictures of a couple of the pilots that I have done builds of recently with them sitting in this contraption, so I got in touch with Sean Trestrail and asked him if he had a pic. He sent me back this one, and I decided there and then that I was going to build a model of it, with him sitting inside it. This moment was captured after Sean’s 1000th Mirage hour. I haven’t used my 3D printer for ages, so I took the opportunity to get it back into action quickly printing out 2 x 44 gallon drums and a cone scaled to 1/32. Next up, I cut some wings and a tail out of plastic card. I then assembled the parts to see if the project was feasible. I hollowed out the ‘cockpit’ in the forward drum and made up a pilot out of a few different figures that I had laying around. By the time he is finished he will be mostly made up of superglue, as the original body of the pilot was standing and the arms and legs have had to be significantly modified. A quick dry fit to see how it fit together. I primed it with SMS primer filler, which once sanded down has smoothed the layers of the 3D printed fuselage and nose. I scratch built one of the small wheels and copied it to make the two main wheels, and also made up the front wheel in a slightly different pattern. I made up a higher tail and have been playing around with the pilots head and tweaking the posture to match the first of Sean’s pictures as above. As can be seen, there is virtually no evidence of 3D printing under the coat of Tamiya fine surface primer.
  28. 18 points
    Just finished this one. This was on the shelf of doom for quite a while. I had purchased the kit for quite cheap and, due to the shape issues of the kit, it ended up being the last Bf 109 in my kit stash, so I figured I would go ahead and build it. However, I managed to destroy the canopy/windscreen parts before completion and also started to be really annoyed by looking at the shape issues, so I just shelved it. I finally decided to use a vac canopy from my spares and modify it to fit. I also sanded down the huge sharp corners that come off the trailing edge of the wing root fairing, into the rear fuselage. The fuselage cross section still leaves a lot to be desired, but this did improve the overall look of the fuselage, even if only slightly. But, don't even get me started on shape of the nose! In any case, I was able to complete it by adding the canopy mentioned above, MM enamels, oil and pastel weathering. The main decals were from the kit, but the unit/number markings were from a few different sources in my spares and represent an aircraft flown by 1./JG 2 around the Battle of Britain. I also added a few bits from scratch in the somewhat strange looking cockpit. In my rush to finish it, I introduced plenty of problems on my own, but the goal was to just finish it and then decide what I'm going to do next. I would really like to get into the Multi-Engine GB, but not sure what I'm going to do next. Anyway, I'm calling this one done (and I'm also likely done with Trumpeter, spare a couple of kits I already own that are from their "A team", which has apparently disappeared). Thanks for looking, John
  29. 18 points

    1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat

    Evening all, I think I’m calling the cockpit done. Not my best effort, but looks ok. I’m not really adding a great deal in terms of detailing, I haven’t quite got the enthusiasm somehow. The Airscale set is great as are the ‘wrong’ seat belts. They really lift it a notch. I’m looking forward to seeing what the master builders do with this kit though - it has great potential. Note the masked areas on the mating surfaces. Thanks Guy
  30. 18 points
    my last built , enjoy :
  31. 18 points

    1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat

    Thanks Ryan and Wingman I’ve made a start this morning and it’s going together surprisingly quickly. I’m getting as much sticking together done on the interior as I can before paint. As mentioned before, the plastic is fairly soft, the cockpit floor seems a teeny bit warped - but should squeeze into shape ok. I’ve done a test fit of the fuselage halves and it goes together - with the internals fitted - with some pressure. I’ll have to keep an eye on that as I progress. Not quite a snap build. That said, it’s a fun build already - it’s a lovely scale to work with ie it’s not too fiddly. Here are some progress pictures. A few sink holes to fill: The first part of the Airscale set fitted (kit detail sanded off) I’ll need to add some kind of seat cushion to replace the kit one moulded with straps. Thanks for looking, Guy
  32. 18 points
    June 18/19 Finally, I’m really painting. A first coat of paint reveals flaws and with gloss black, they are amplified at least 3 times over a flat finish. I always start painting on the bottom, just in case I have airbrush or paint issues, but in this case, Tamiya Gloss Black lacquer (TS-14) sprayed beautifully. This paint was decanted from the rattle can then thinned with about 40% of Tamiya lacquer thinner. I expected a few flaws underneath, because this is where the kit parts do not fit very well, but I did not expect to still see so many seam lines and other flaws. The rear, however, came out looking great. With that shiny coat of X-22 over the Archer rivets, it almost looks like metal already with the smooth reflection. Back to the drawing board….. And another coat of paint. Much better now. A close up to show that those seams lines are now filled and other flaws repaired. There are so many surfaces that from this angle, it almost looks wrinkled. In the background, I’ve been busy cleaning up, assembling and painting other parts that will be attached later for ease of handling. The landing gear, doors and hardware are ready for final assembly. And here’s my first shot at painting the exhausts, which have gone from this: To this, using Alclad Stainless Steel. For the inside, I used Alclad Steel, followed by a dusting of rust to replicate reference pics. Although I’m getting near the end of this build, I still have a lot to do. Missiles, the main fuel tank and dozens of tiny bits still need to be attended to. I’m a bit nervous about decaling, because I normally shoot a good sealing coat of X-22 over the decals to seal them in and reduce decal film edges. On this nice gloss black finish, X-22 might make the finish look too artificial. I guess time will tell! Cheers, Chuck
  33. 18 points
    All parts dryfitted :
  34. 17 points

    1/32 Revell FW-190 F-8

    Here is my first post of a plane, indeed my first ever plane kit! I’m having lots of fun with it! I have chucked every aftermarket part at this kit as I like loads of intricate detail. I’ve also decided to open up many of the panels to get a better view inside. I didn't take pictures before finding this forum, so I’m already a chunk of the way through. I build not too full historical accuracy, but I keep it in the realm of possibility. Today I finished the engine; a truly wonderful kit by Eduard. I hope you all like it! Sophie If anyone know of a better way to get pictures up on here, I’m all ears. Photobucket is terrible!
  35. 17 points

    Tamiya P-51 with upgrades

    Here is my first build here on the site. Let me know what you think before I put the 2 halves together! HDW Seat Belts and Baracudacals placards
  36. 17 points
    Thanks Misha! My garden is a nice place indeed - I love the view. I have scribed the first groove lines on the gearbox housing and could not help myself but to cut the gearbox oil cooler compartment open. Not sure this is a good idea, but there is no way back now. Let's see...
  37. 17 points
    Right to the plastic, because after I've added so much fine rivet and panel line detail, I don't want anything filling it like a primer. With enamels and lacquers I can do that, but it requires extensive surface prep and sanding, which sometimes is not enough as shown below. July 20/19 When I’m in the modeling zone, I am possessed, so another quick update on painting 3 days in a row. After finishing the bottom of the jet and getting a procedure and rhythm of what I should do, I got after the upper part of the model and low and behold, that bloody fuselage seam was worse up top! Back to the drawing board all over again. And this is why. Nothing really fits front to back… So after a few hours of careful sanding this evening and re-painting, it turned out pretty good if I do say so myself. I took a little heat earlier for painting a “plain black jet”, but I think this baby will look awesome with big red Soviet stars and bright red placards and other markings. I’ll just let the pics do the talking now…. With poor fitting gun doors, this area turned out great as well…. I still have a few small flaws, but I’ll let this dry for a few days before I try to repair them and get my sticky fingerprints on the nice shiny surface. Cheers, Chuck
  38. 17 points
    July 19/19 Well that didn’t take long. That seam flaw, among other small items was driving me crazy all day at work so as soon as I came home, I got right on it and had them fixed in about 1 ½ hours. First, here is the offending seam and why it’s such a pain to fill and create a smooth finish. This is probably the worst fit on the entire kit, and there are many! And after paint. Still there and since I’m doing surgery anyway, I may as well fix that sink mark in the LEX that I was going to leave alone since it’s on the bottom anyway. Fixing it after paint is not so easy, but after too much experience with this situation, here is what I did. First, I masked off the small detailed areas so that I could sand the seam without eroding them off. Note that the paint is attracting dust already! Since the CA glue is tough, especially after drying so long, I used fairly coarse 400# sandpaper until I had the black lines of the seam and sink hole revealed. I then added CA glue to these black marks, let it dry, then sanded it down again. I then used 1,000# sandpaper and smoothed out the sanded area and the paint on the fringe to eliminate any sharp edges. Once that was done, I masked off another area near the intakes for further repairs. This area was just sanded, along with other small flaws that I found later. Finally, everything was smoothed out with Mr. Laplos polishing cloths in 4,000# and I used compressed air to remove most of the dust. I am happy to report that the seam is now gone, along with the sink marks and other small flaws. There is still a small step at the junction of the intakes and the old seam, but that would take a huge effort that just isn’t worth it underneath a model that will never be seen. The funny thing is, almost all of this will be covered with the big fuel tank anyway, but I’m glad this annoyance is behind me. Next up when this dries, the top paint! Cheers, Chuck
  39. 17 points
  40. 17 points


    I don't think the "oil canning" is exaggerated. I saw the plastic parts at two different shows and the effect is actually quite subtle. Maybe it is just the lighting that makes it look too pronounced. Radu A quick Google reveals plenty of that effect, anyway. https://pin.it/yucshwapn4hgjz https://pin.it/ufprh6ejnqm3x4
  41. 16 points

    P-51D-25 "Blondie" Tamiya

    P-51D-25 "Blondie" Build Miroslav Knížek Painting Miloslav Hrabaň 1/32 Tamiya HGW wet tansfer set Colours HGW & Gunze
  42. 16 points

    1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat

    We both know you wouldn’t be! Thanks for the support everyone. I’ve closed up the fuselage, it went together quite well in the end, but I was conscious of potential issues. Again, I don’t think there’s anything at all wrong with the kit - just that you have to be ‘fit aware’ - ie paint on the mating surfaces, constant checking etc. It’s quite a hunk of plastic on the bench!
  43. 15 points

    MIG-25 FOXBAT 1:48th

    ICM,s MIG-25 FOXBAT. I added a resin pilot, the rest is out of the box. No real dramas regarding the build, a good fit with hardly any filler required. Humbrol enamels used for the overall colours, with AK paints used for the metallic tones. It's big enough in 48th! If one should be produced in 32nd................................... Thanks for looking. Angelo
  44. 15 points
    I have a few projects on the go at the moment, but I needed to get started on a decent large scale jet as I have felt a little rushed come Model Expo in June for the last few years when I have been caught napping and haven't got my act together and almost not had an entry ready for the Large scale jets category. This will be a long term project so there wont be any rushing here and it will fit in nicely with the other stuff currently on my bench. I have wanted to do an F-100D for a long time and have felt that it would be a great addition to my collection, considering that I am well on my way to completing my collection of the Forward Air Control trifecta of the O-1, O-2 and the OV-10A as flown by RAAF pilots during Vietnam. It would be important to be able to display the aircraft that they called upon to deliver the ordnance and give some context to the mostly unarmed aircraft that were the FAC's. During my build of Mac Cottrells O-1, he supplied me with a combat report written by two F-100 pilots that he called upon to provide a strike assisting troops in contact. They recommended him for a Distinguished Flying Cross for which he was awarded. Here is the Combat report that Mac supplied me with. I decided to see if I could find either of the two pilots mentioned. With a bit of persistence, I was able to track down Ronald Swanson (Blade 02) via a photo of him that I found on facebook. He has agreed to be my subject pilot for this build and we have been having conversations over the last week via email and social media (we are on opposite sides of the earth after all). I am very happy to be able to make a model with such a unique connection to another in my collection and thank Ron for being the inspiration to do so. Ron flew 268 combat missions during the Vietnam war, between April 1968 and April 1969. He flew for the 615th Tactical Fighter Squadron, part of the 35th Tactical Fighter Wing based at Phan Rang Air Base. This picture is Ron immediately after his final mission in Vietnam. This picture is of Ron's Squadron, with Ron being the 5th from the left in the back row. Major Davidson, the flight leader mentioned in the combat report is second from the right in the front row. Ron will have access to much more information in October, so please stay tuned! The build. I am using the Trumpeter F-100D, with as much aftermarket as I could find for it. I started in the cockpit. The Aires resin pit is quite nice and looks to be reasonably accurate. I painted it all over black I then painted it MRP FS36231 grey. From there I masked the side consoles and painted them with an extremely dark grey custom mix of SMS Camo black and white. I followed the same paint process as above with the instrument panel. I then hand painted each instrument bezel with Vallejo black, and used the excellent Airscale Allied Jets decals for the instruments. I used a few 1/48 scale decals for the smaller instruments. Each instrument has a drop of clear glue to simulate the glass. The cockpit sides and rudder pedals painted using the above process. The kit pedals have been used with the Aires photo etch North American logo on the top of each pedal applied. For some of the harder to paint parts, I attach a piece of masking tape to a pop stick to enable me to stick parts to it. Part way through the cockpit. I have painted some of the button labels with white paint and started picking out some of the details with other various colours. I have applied a wash to build up a level of grime and have chipped the floor in front of the rudder pedals to simulate a well worn machine. There was almost a mini disaster here when I went and got a coffee inside and returned to the shed to a strong smell of Mr Levelling thinner. My son (almost 8) was looking a little suspect and quickly caved in under questioning and owned up to accidentally tipping over the bottle, filling up the tub with thinner! luckily, it dried OK with no harm. Visible here is a new undercarriage lever which I have fabricated from brass and plastic card. The silver chipping in front of the rudder pedals is visible here. I have painted the outline of the worn areas with a thin line of zinc chromate primer to simulate the various layers of paint down to the bare metal. Whilst stuff was drying in the cockpit I dry fitted the fuselage halves together and sawed off the really inaccurate intake from the kit. this will allow me to fit the Zactomodels correct intake, an essential upgrade to the kit. Once the intake duct was together, I fitted the Aires front wheel bay. This took a bit of work to get right but it is also another important upgrade.
  45. 15 points
    July 26/19 Inching along towards the finish line. One major addition is the big center line fuel tank, which my subject usually has strapped on. In many pics of modern F-5E/N’s, the vertical fin has been removed, leaving the base attachment, so I cut mine off. Something missing is a fuel cap, because you’ve got to get the fuel in there somehow! I used another spare PE brass disk that I also used on the top of the fuselage when I moved the fuel caps from the starboard side to the port side. Painting circular objects can be tricky, so this wire contraption worked out quite well to keep the tank suspended without touching anything. The other side. I will put a red circular decal on that fuel cap later. Now some real fun and before somebody alerts me to the fact that the titanium panels at the rear of the jet are often dull, I will be adding some semi-gloss lacquer to knock down the shine a bit later. For now, it looks pretty cool with all that raised rivet detail. Next up are likely decals and here’s my plan. As cool as the gloss black finish looks, it’s too shiny for scale and I still need something to seal the decals in so that decal film edges will be minimized. To do this, I’m going to be spraying the entire model with Tamiya Semi-Gloss Lacquer right after decals, which will also tone down the shine of the titanium panels and exhausts. Fingers crossed that I don’t regret this! Cheers, Chuck
  46. 15 points
    I now assembled the floor and added all the control cables A view with the seat, to show how it all comes together Now my next task will be to deal with the compass, the oxygen hose and the landing gear quadrant
  47. 15 points
    Well...we managed to finish one. That's something. Will post some better pics of both to RFI when the XIVe is finished. have enjoyed this a lot.Hope you like. Regards,Bill.
  48. 15 points
    More to come... Iain
  49. 14 points
    Hi Guys, It's me again. I must be crazy as a loon for starting two build logs at the same time, but I figured that hey, since I'm building both models at the same time, why not? Besides, I've been working on my USS Missouri since the fall of 2015 and I have a lot of catching up to do here. Luckily, I've been posting tons of pictures of my progress on my model warship forum so I'm able to pick out some of the more interesting ones to post here. After I sold my Scarab, I was itching to build another big boat. What I really wanted to do was to build a 1/4 scale model of a Chris-Craft barrel back and power it with a weed-eater gas engine. I still may do that someday - if I live long enough, but now I'd power it with an electric motor. They've come a long way in the past few years. But then I happened to run across Trumpeter's big model of this battleship, and when I started investigating and found that there was oodles of detail add-on's I was hooked. No, I didn't get enough for my Scarab to offset the cost of all this, but hey, as I told my wife, it keeps me out of the bars, right? So, after I ordered the ship itself, the Pontos Detail-Up set, the Pontos Advanced Detail set, the Eduard Big Ed set, and a set of 1:96 plans from the Floating Drydock, I had very close to a thousand bucks tied up in this model. And that doesn't include all the random miscellaneous stuff like paint at $4.75 for 1/2 oz, glue, tape, and so on. Damn well better take my time and do it right, huh? The box this monster came in is huge! 46 inches long and weighs about 15 pounds. And once you open it up it's overwhelming; 4 boxes marked A-D plus the hull and the larger superstructure pieces. The box says there are 1573 pieces, which I have no reason to doubt, plus 13 frets of photo-etch and a 44 page assembly manual. This is definitely NOT some kid's plastic toy boat! As you can see from the picture below, the front 8" of the hull are separate pieces that are glued on. I'm told that this is because of some limitation of the box length and it would have cost lots more to make it longer. The overall length of the ship is 53", or 1347mm for those of you who are smarter that us idiots here in the US! Why we still use a measuring system based on the length of some king's shoulder to the tip of his middle finger is beyond me! Now, if that isn't daunting enough, I opened the Pontos Detail-Up set for this ship and was blown away again. 18 frets of PE; 297 turned brass parts; adhesive backed actual wood decking for all deck surfaces, and 12 11x17" pages of instructions. Now, those of you who haven't had the pleasure of trying to figure out Pontos' instructions, let me tell you - they leave a LOT to be desired! Boy, this is like Christmas time, right? Next we have the Pontos Advanced Add-On set with even more goodies. The main reason I bought this additional kit was for the brass screws and also for the Veterans Models 40mm Quad Bofors gun platforms. They are so much more detailed that the ones that came with the ship that there simply is no comparison. Also, since I planned on making this ship as detailed as possible, the fire suppression valves also a nice addition. And, in addition to all this was 11 more sheets of PE from Eduard. A lot of this was duplicates, but the Eduard set did have quite a few pieces of PE that were not in the Pontos set, nor the PE with the ship itself. Once had all the goodies and had established a decent work space with a new light, a new Opto-visor (more$$$) and a new set of tweezers, I started to work. From the other modelers on the model warship site, I knew that the most boring and tedious job was making the 50 20mm Oerlikon AA guns, the 20 40mm Quad Bofors, and the 10 5" gun turrets. After these, the rest was fun - so they said! So, I started out making the 20mm Oerlikon AA guns, and they were right - it was boring. Each one of the 50 little bastards contained 11 brass parts and they all had to be assembled and painted individually. The picture below shows 25 of them and for comparison, I've placed a dime next to them. (A dime is about 18mm.) Let me tell ya, by the time I finished these little buggers, I was beginning to wonder whether I was cut out for this after all! But, after a break of a few days, I refilled my wine glass and set out to tackle the 20 40mm Quad Bofors platforms. These were even more intricate than the Oerlikons, with 7 resin pieces and 28 brass pieces in each one. With a lot of help from each other on the model warship forum, we finally finished them and after they were all completed, we sat back and said "Damn, those look nice!" And they do! Especially since they are located in such prominent places on the ship, their detail really sets the ship off. You can't see it from these pictures, but on top of each of the 4 cannons there is a magazine of 5 brass shells which have their tips painted red with 1 green (a tracer). OK, I think this is enough for now. The nest post will continue with more of the major sub-assemblies. Each one is like a little kit in itself. Take care, Gents, and thanks for looking! And Happy Father's Day to all you hard working Dads out there! Lar
  50. 14 points
    Let's hope it won't lead to "this will only be finished in ten years" road.. we'll see. I have 3D printed a scribing template for the forward avionic bay hatches which also serves as positioning template for the tie down eye recesses. Panel scribed and tie down eye recess in place. After this, it was time to enjoy a Jupiler from the tap and to get some inspiration from the very old Landing Zone Publications book and to think about whether or not to open the avionic bays. Seems that I am getting old - I bought this book back in 2003 when I was 18 years old...
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