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Best Battle of Britain era Stuka?

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#31 RLWP

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 01:48 PM

The only models that are perfect are the ones in my head......

 

How do you fit the wingspan into such a small space?

 

Richard


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#32 wunwinglow

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 03:19 PM

Lots off FAA types with folding wings.

Timmy's not so simple.......

My Father told me two things would happen as I got older.
I can't remember either of them....

 

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#33 The Southern Bandit

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 04:46 PM

Have bought a Trumpy B2 now, think I'll tape the fuselage and wheel spat parts together and compare to real life pics and then decide on the Brian Fawcett correction parts.

Thanks all.


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#34 monthebiff

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 09:51 PM

I agree, a properly done Hasegawa B2 would be most welcome and I would gladly pay whatever price. I was ready to give up on my correction nose until I received some most welcome help from monthebif. Resin parts are not as perfect as they seem.

 

Glad I could ge of help G-Man and hope your build is progresing nicely.

 

Regards. Andy



#35 Artful69

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 10:00 PM

Have bought a Trumpy B2 now, think I'll tape the fuselage and wheel spat parts together and compare to real life pics and then decide on the Brian Fawcett correction parts.

Thanks all.

 

 

It's a decent choice either way ... but it's not so much the wheel spats and fuse' you'll need to compare - as much as the nose!

 

Rog :)


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#36 monthebiff

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 10:05 PM

Having built the Trumpeter B-2 and used the Fawcett corrction set I can say it with a little work you get a stunning looking Stuka. As well as the nose issue's from Trumpeter you also need to take into account the incorrect shape and height of the wheel spats which leave it sitting far to high.

 

20150616_213506.jpg

 

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And this is what I got from the Trumpeter/ Fawcett conversion with initial paint added.

 

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And after apply my desert scheme.

 

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Go with the Trumpeter kit as it has very good fit generally, if you are not to bothered about the shape then dont add the Fawcett upgrade but either way you love buildinit and it is still now my favourite LSP in my display case.

 

Regards. Andy

20150628_155110.jpg


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#37 mmaben

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 01:43 AM

I wonder what drawings should be used to get a 'correct' Stuka B ?

 

:shrug:


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#38 G-Man

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 03:44 AM

Glad I could ge of help G-Man and hope your build is progresing nicely.

Regards. Andy


You sir are a lifesaver. My nose is now almost done, I am taking my time to get it looking the way I want. I've also begun to work on the landing gear. The Fawcett correction is the way to go, the model just looks so much better with it.
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ON THE BENCH: Trumpeter 1/32 Ju 87B-2

ON DECK: Hasegawa 1/32 Fw 190D-9

                   


#39 nmayhew

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Posted 31 January 2018 - 06:58 PM

BoB Bs were mostly B-1s, not B-2s.

The Trumpy kit is a B-2.

The difference is noticeable around the cowl, and not fixable in my book.

There are very few BoB B-2s photographically documented.

I think I found one in the Luftwaffe Crash Archive series - don’t remember which and I don’t have access to my library at this time

I was like warm on the Fawcett stuff.
I reviewed them for SP&R when it was up and running.
Surface detail was soft and does not match the kit’s.
Overall shape is better though.
Would I use it?
Still kit sure, because once up close it will be obvious as a chop shop effort without significant work.
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#40 The Southern Bandit

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Posted 31 January 2018 - 07:54 PM

The Trumpy B2 I've bought from Ebay is from a far Eastern reputable dealer I've bought from before, wont be here until mid to late Feb apparently but I'm in no hurry, will wait until it arrives and have a look but almost certainly will be buying the Fawcet correction parts.

Not too bothered if a B2 was prolific in the BoB or not really, just wanted a Stuka from around that era and it seems this kit along with the correction parts is the way to go ... of course - Hasegawa will likely produce a B1 now and not need any corrections :)



#41 fightersweep

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Posted 01 February 2018 - 10:30 AM

20150628_155110.jpg

 

 

It looks to me as if the Trumpeter U/C are in the unloaded state, hence the fact they are longer. I know the Airfix 1/24 kit comes this way, but has the option of cutting out a section to depict the aircraft in the loaded position. Haven't got the Trumpy kit at hand, but is there enough plastic to sand the bottom of the spat to gain the correct profile? Not a difficult job if there is.

 

Had a look through the Crash Archive books. I found three B-2s, S2 + GT of StG 77, and T6 + KL and T6 + HL of Stg 2. There wasn't nearly as many B-2s as B-1s on the channel front, but there were some. Of course, the Crash Archive only covers those actually lost and not all aircraft. As mentioned above, finding photos is tricky.

 

Is there a comprehensive list of the tweaks needed to backdate a B-2 to a B-1? I'm always happy to hack up perfectly good kits!

 

Best regards;

Steve


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#42 The Southern Bandit

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Posted 01 February 2018 - 11:43 AM

 

Is there a comprehensive list of the tweaks needed to backdate a B-2 to a B-1? I'm always happy to hack up perfectly good kits!

 


 

 

Yeah ... I wonder what the differences are? they cant be massive, surely?



#43 G-Man

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Posted 01 February 2018 - 12:27 PM

Another thing missing from the Trumpeter kit is the sirens. They only provide the rounded end caps. Last night, I was overjoyed to find the siren propellers are in my 21C kit. So now I will be using the 21C decals, sirens, and bomb clutch. And I should also mention that the Trumpeter bomb clutch is wrong and the bomb is too big for the B2 to carry.

Edited by G-Man, 01 February 2018 - 12:32 PM.

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ON THE BENCH: Trumpeter 1/32 Ju 87B-2

ON DECK: Hasegawa 1/32 Fw 190D-9

                   


#44 The Southern Bandit

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Posted 09 February 2018 - 04:30 AM

Having built the Trumpeter B-2 and used the Fawcett corrction set I can say it with a little work you get a stunning looking Stuka. As well as the nose issue's from Trumpeter you also need to take into account the incorrect shape and height of the wheel spats which leave it sitting far to high.

 

20150616_213506.jpg

 

 

%Thanks mate but leaving aside the wheel spat errors just now, that nose does not look to be lining up to well to me?

Is there meant to be a dip twixt nose and fore cockpit front? Also bottom fit does not seem to line up to well either ... is this where the sanding work comes in?

That correction kit looks like really, really, really hard work to me :(   My wrists are not good with my arthritis issue and if I'm going to have to be sanding forever between these two parts ... maybe I'd be best building the kit OOB?

Honest observations so far and I have the kit now ... thanks to all.



#45 CATCplSlade

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Posted 09 February 2018 - 05:11 AM

Is there meant to be a dip twixt nose and fore cockpit front? Also bottom fit does not seem to line up to well either ... is this where the sanding work comes in?


I was wondering that as well. Due to the nature of my build regimen, I will stick with an OOB on these kits. Only I will know.

And everyone who reads this.
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