Trumpeter Ju 87B2 tweak list

[thierry laurent]

Hi folks,

 

Less train journeys this year resulted in less tweak lists, unfortunately...! However, I decided to end some files I started in the past.

Here is one of them. I had noticeable difficulties to end it as, oddly, the sources regarding this plane are far from exhaustive and you need a terrible amount of sources to reconstruct and double check some aspects as there are many omissions or errors in the books...

 

As usual, feel free to update, correct or comment the contents...

 

Thierry

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Junkers Ju-87B version TWEAKS LIST

 

 

TYPE: Junkers Ju 87B2

 

SCALE: 1/32

 

COMPANY: Trumpeter

 

KIT NUMBER: 03214

 

MOLD CREATION DATE: 2012

 

 

TWEAKS LIST VERSION 1.0 (publication date: November 2014)

 

Compiled by Thierry Laurent

 

The following list is intended to help modelers in improving scale accuracy of an airplane model replica. In no way is it intended to support or be offensive towards a scale model company.
As such, it is only the result of a progressive process and is in no way intended to be absolute or even comprehensive. Hence, it is intended to focus on commonly admitted discrepancies and will probably not cover some errors. It is up to the modeler to decide whether correcting the listed issues is worth the time and money he will have to invest in the quest for accuracy process.

No aftermarket correction or detail set is mentioned in this document as the availability of such items may be very variable. Hence, refer to other LSP sections to find relevant information. Moreover, aftermarket sets do not necessarily correct all listed issues. Please refer accordingly to relevant documentation.

 

 

 

GENERAL REVIEW

 

 

 

• The kit is essentially made of flat light grey parts. The moulding is generally crisp with engraved panel lines, rivets and details. A sheet of 16 photoetched parts is included to detail some areas. The kit has black vinyl tires.

 

• General kit dimensions are correct. However, the complete nose assembly is noticeably under scaled (essentially in the vertical dimension). This spoils the plane profile and does not gives to the kit the “brute†look of the actual airframe.

 

• Overall fit is generally excellent. However, there are some exceptions such as the floor to cockpit sides' construction.

 

• All panel lines and prominent rivets are recessed. Note there are no protruding rivets whereas the full scale airframe had such rivets everywhere.  

 

• Clear parts are very thin and transparent.

 

• If the rudder is separate, the ailerons and stab moving parts can only be glued in neutral position.  

 

• The kit has a full and very nicely detailed Jumo 211 engine but it is noticeably under scaled.

 

• There were two main distinct Bertha types divided into multiple batches: the B1 and the B2. The kit has generally B2 type features (and markings) but some other prominent ones such as the bombing window, the lower nose section or the radiator bath width rather look like the ones of the B1. As the last B1 batch incorporated some elements associated with the B2 (such as the late exhausts), it is probably easier to change the kit into a late B1 if the modeler is not prepared for heavy rework.

 

• The kit gives a large choice of weapons but, except the SC50 bombs; none of them may be used on a Ju87B-2.

 

 

FUSELAGE (from front to rear)

 

 

• The whole front nose section of the Trumpeter kit is far too short vertically (nearly 3mm) and also too narrow horizontally (between 1 and 2mm from top to bottom). The rear section at the level of the engine bulkhead is correctly shaped but, up to the propeller, the cowl cross sections are progressively becoming too narrow. Rebuilding this is asking for a time-consuming and difficult work. Unfortunately, no other released B/R 1/32 kit has a correctly dimensioned nose. So, the easiest solution asks for the use of a correct aftermarket nose. Note this last solution would also solve most of the other problems described here under in this section.

 

• The spinner is far too small. The diameter should be three millimeters larger. Similarly, the VS11 propeller blades are too small and not correctly shaped. Unfortunately, there is no easy way to correct the spinner without rebuilding the nose front section. 

 

• The intake on the top of the nose cowl is wrongly shaped and should be rebuilt. Moreover, the top section of the nose is missing the subtle curve in the cowling on the port side of the intake.

 

• The exhausts row opening is too small (noticeably too narrow and a little bit too short) because of the nose dimension problem. The exhausts are also under scaled and their ends are not opened. In any case, fully opened exhaust ends would be better. Hence, it is recommended to hollow-out fully the parts or replace them with aftermarket ones if a correctly dimensioned nose is rebuilt or used from an aftermarket set.

 

• The H7 intake on the nose starboard side is a little bit too basic: its front face asks for improvement (a mesh should be added).

 

• The kit radiator is closer to a B1 type. Indeed, the front opening is too narrow for a B2. The radius of the B2 opening is clearly larger. Moreover, the front lower nose cowling is B1-shaped. To get a correct B2 profile, the nose cross-section under the propeller should be corrected as the kit has the round shaped section of the B1 type rather than the V-shaped one of the B2. So, this part of the kit also asks for heavy work to get a correct B2. It is hence probably easier to change the kit into a late B1 if a full new correct nose is not used. Note also that the side profile is not correct either as the lower edge should not have this slope. Last, the front face has too thick gill details and does not depict the positional shutter blades. Oddly, a photoetch part PE6 is only given for the hidden back side. Besides the main dimensions issue, thinning the front part or, better, replacing it with photoetch shutters is recommended. 

 

• The kit has a small panel behind the radiator on each side of the nose whereas this should only be present on the port side against the J14 bulkhead (to hide the engine starter hole).

 

• The kit has a fantasy gap that shall be filled in between the rear end of the radiator cowl flaps and the underside of the nose (aft of the radiator bath).

 

• If the kit has a very detailed albeit too small engine, it has no element of the ducts located over the radiator flaps, the flaps actuators or the rad brace apertures and coolant pipes (in front of the bomb cradle).  So, even if it is not the most visible one, this area should be corrected and detailed.

 

• The bombing window with two Perspex sheets (V2 & V3) located at each end of the viewing funnel J11 behind the pilot pedals is an early feature seen on the A or B1. The belly window was replaced by a pivoting panel on the B2 when it was realized in operations that the fixed window was quickly covered by oil leaks. The kit window funnel is not accurately shaped but this is fortunately not really visible. To make a correct B2, the kit lacks the pivoting shutter opening mechanism that was made of gears, levers and chains controlled via a turn wheel on a long stalk located on the port side of the funnel. This should be added as the turn wheel is visible between the port pedal and the control stick. So, for a B2, paint the lower window as the belly and paint the internal side with RLM02.

 

• The center line bomb release arm L19 is incorrect for a Bertha mark. This type of release gear with a curved strap located halfway along the length of the two arms was the one fitted to the Dora type. Correcting this asks for removing this strap and replacing it with one large rod supported by four support stalks welded between the perpendicular rod and the two side arms. Some other small details shall also be added on the arms.

 

• The rudder actuators are missing on each side. They shall be scratchbuilt.

 

WING/WEAPONS

 

 

• The kit has a SC 1800 Satan 1.8 ton main bomb whereas the Ju87 B could not lift a bomb heavier than the half a ton SC500. So, to have a fully armed plane, a SC250 or 500 shall be sourced somewhere else. Keep also in mind that a full normal war load for a Ju87B did not exceed 1 metric ton.

 

• It is not recommended to glue the B12/B20 and B7/B26 parts combinations to add them later on the wing tips. It is more appropriate to glue each part to the corresponding wing half.

• Oddly, the instruction sheet does not cover the MG 17 wing guns in spite of the fact the parts are included: gun muzzles are A32 parts whereas fairings halves are B2, B3, B5, and B16 ones. The MG 17 machine guns wells are reasonably detailed. Some small additional details and cables may nonetheless be added. For instance, the well door was secured by a strap. There are also useless covered MG fairings (B22, 23, 25 & 27) but it seems these were only fitted to some Doras.

 

• The instruction sheet only shows the dive brakes positioned in the open position. They shall be turned to be glued in the closed position as they were normally never deployed on the ground.

 

• The kit unfortunately has the ETC 500 faired bomb racks (WD6 & WD13) used on some late Doras. So, they are useless.

 

• The WB 81 gun pods were only used by the Dora variants, not the Berthas.

 

• The ETC 50 small racks (WD2, WD3, WD14 & WD15) are only given for the small bombs clusters but such bombs were rarely if ever used. Such ETC racks shall also be used for the SC50 bombs. However, they will require fixing details such as hooks and sway braces. To get a more accurate look, cut each end straight and add the missing details. Note that there are also wartime pictures showing the ETC 50 with a curved edge at the rear. This may be simply reproduced as well: cut the rear edge straight and then reverse the front and rear to have the curved edge at the rear. Indeed, the actual pylons look like rectangular pylons with a curved trailing edge. Nonetheless, note that the R2 preserved in Chicago has yet a different type of rack (both ends are rounded without any slope) but it is not known if these are authentic Stuka early ETC racks. So, it is obvious there were fairings variations.

 

• The drop tanks may be used to change the plane into a R. However, they shall again be used with modified ETC 50 racks rather than the erroneous ETC 500. This required scratchbuilding all the fixings and sway braces. Note that the tanks used the same iron belt as the fighters but it was different as it was not hung by a central point. There were two hanging points (one under each rack). The drop tank pressure tube is far too small. Replace it by a section of brass tube. Last, the filling plugs are also too small. Either scratchbuild them or get them from drop tanks from another kit. Last, the drop tanks generally had visible irregular weld marks in each recessed line.

 

COCKPIT

 

 

• The cockpit tub is reasonably accurate and detailed. However, many small details (dials, levers, knobs, cables and so on) are missing or not accurate.

 

• The main problem is the infamous floor step found in all Stuka kits. In fact, no Stuka had such a step. This error probably comes from the fact that the seat is located very high on a complex support structure and that the control stick is also higher on the cockpit front bulkhead structure. There are two ways to solve this: either cut the front section of J47 to glue it at the level of the rear one but this also requires cutting the front section with the stick. Another, easier, solution may be chosen: doing cuts in the front section where there is no floor and keeping plastic “beams†where the two seat supports are located as well as on each side edge of the floor will help in keeping cockpit structure integrity. In this case, a lower floor should simply be added under the modified one. Note that whatever may be the chosen solution, the two reinforcing spar structures (part A8 & A10) will have to be modified. The central section of A10 needs to be removed and at least the front beam of the similar section of A8 must be removed as well.

 

• The correction of the floor will also require the lengthening of the front sections of the cockpit side parts (H5 & H10). Moreover, some details such as the front oxygen bottle shall also be corrected. Indeed, the oxygen bottle regulator part L31 shall have the same length than part L34 (a section corresponding to the three lower ranks of holes shall be added).

 

• The floor section with the pedal supports (located behind the front bulkhead) must also be cut as the pedals are actually hanging from behind the IP. Note as well that the pedal type is incorrect. They shall be replaced by accurate ones with the correct hanging structure. Last, this area will need some new details and, for a B2, at least the aforementioned belly shutter operating wheel and stalk must be added.

 

• The J2 plastic instrument panel looks flat and clunky. Even if a decal is given for the dials, rebuilding it or replacing it with an aftermarket one will result in a more authentic replica. Note that the kit sprues give two panel options (part J28 for a B1). So check closely which type you want to build to choose the most appropriate one.

 

• The Revi C12 gunsight asks for more details or replacement by an aftermarket one. Moreover, its power cable shall be added.

 

• The pilot seat dimensions are globally ok but the part also looks clunky. It corresponds to the type used on late Berthas (early ones used a shorter seat with a rounded back) and Doras. The kit part does not look like embossed metal and the front and side edges are far too thick. Moreover, the back seat cushion looks as stiff as a wood plank. Correcting the seat is highly recommended as the area is very visible. Masquerading part of the problems with epoxy-made cushions is possibly a partial solution.

 

• Note that the kit has no pilot or navigator seat belts. Accordingly, getting aftermarket ones is a requirement.

 

• The upper front section of the structure supporting the radios was armored on Stukas after the start of the Battle of Britain. This was done progressively. Many Stukas used in the Greece and Balkans campaign were not yet upgraded whereas field armour seemed quite common in North Africa. If necessary, this may be easily scratchbuilt or taken from a photoetched set.

 

• The two E5A & S6b radio boxes are a little bit too small and the details on their front face look plain and far too simplified. Moreover, many details and cables are missing.

 

• The casting of the navigator seat part J45 is not very good as the rods are flat on the visible side whereas their section should be completely round. Using an epoxy putty cushion is probably the best way to solve this as; otherwise, the part should be completely rebuilt.

 

• The straps on the MG 15 ammo boxes parts S23 shall be replaced.

 

• The rear machine gun ammo case box looks too stiff. In fact, this was a rigid tubular structure closed with heavy fabric. So, this should have creases and bumps rather than being perfectly flat. Moreover, there were other surface details such as a zipper to empty the cases.

 

 

 

CANOPY

 

 

• Most of the vertical canopy framing structure should be internal, not external as depicted on the kit parts. Correcting this is really difficult. Indeed, this requires:

 

• drilling the fasteners from the external to the internal side,
• sanding the horizontal external frames,
• adding or at least painting new ones on the internal side,
• filling the fastener holes with RLM66 paint.

 

• The movable sections of the greenhouse had some opening/lock levers that shall be added on the kit.

 

 

LANDING GEAR

 

 

• The main landing gear spats have an incorrect profile. The most obvious problem is visible at the rear, behind the leg. Another problem is the too forward position of the wheel axle inside them. It is possible to improve them but replacing them with ones from another kit or resin ones is far easier.

 

• Note that the Ju87B had 815x290 tires. So, do not compare them with Dora ones to assess their accuracy as the latter were larger (840x300). The use of vinyl tire is a problem as there is no easy way to weight them for a fully loaded plane. Replacing them with resin ones is recommended.

 

• The wheel spats do not have the so-called Jericho trumpet small siren propellers. This is not a problem for a late Bertha as they were removed from most of the planes after 1940. However, for an early war Stuka, scratchbuilding them or getting them from another kit may be required.  

 

 

OTHER REMARKS

 

 

• Three Ju87B2 marking options are included:

• T6-KC, 2/ Stg2 Immelman, Russian front, September 1941
• L1-AU, 10/LG1, Tramecourt, France, July 1940
• 6G-CC, 2/ STG1, Russian front, December 1941

• The kit was also released as a tropical Ju87R. However, the sprues were not changed and the kit does not have the required squared air intake or the tropical filter used on the B2/R2 Trop.

 

_________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

The following sources were used to build this list:

 

Modelling essentials:

 

• Androvic, Bernad & Bily, Junkers 87 Stuka, MBI/Sagitta, 1992.
• Creek, Junkers Ju 87 from Dive-Bomber to Tank-Buster 1935-1945, Classic Publications, 2012.
• Michulec & Willis, Junkers Ju87 Stuka, Mushroom model publications, Stratus, N° 6125, 2008.

 

Other used references:

• ---, Junkers Ju87 Stuka,  Famous Airplanes of the World, Bunrin-Do, N°11, 1988.
• Aders & Kit, Junkers Ju-87 Stuka, Special la derniere guerre, Editions Atlas, 1979.
• Erfurth, Junkers Ju 87, Black Cross, volume 5, Midland Publishing, 2004.
• Filley, Ju 87 in Action Part 1, Aircraft in Action series, N° 73, Squadron Signal Publications, 1986.
• Jouineau & Leonard, Junkers Ju87 from 1936 to 1945, Histoire & Collections, 2003.
• Hall, Junkers Ju 87 Stuka, Warpaint series N°3, Hall Park, 2000.
• Murawski, Junkers Ju 87, vol.1, N°25, Kagero, 2006.
• Murawski, Junkers Ju 87, vol.2, N°27, Kagero, 2006.
• Murawski, Junkers Ju 87, vol.3, N°30, Kagero, 2006.
• Murawski, Junkers Ju 87, vol.4, N°42, Kagero, 2006.
• Nohara, Junkers Ju87D/G Stuka, Aero Detail, N°11, Art box, Dai Nippon Kaiga CO, 1994.
• Nowara, Junkers Ju 87 the stuka story, Caler Illustrated series, 1967.
• Robertson & Scarborough, Ju 87 Stuka, Classic Aircraft n°5, Patrick Stephens Limited, 1977.

• some magazines articles (more particularly from Replic)

• some web pages (more particularly LSP, Hyperscale and technical manuals on www.avialogs.com)

[mattlow]

Good stuff Thierry

 

Quite a list of work to do.. . Brian's set seems pretty much a prerequisite add-on for this kit...

 

Matt

[thierry laurent]

Indeed!

 

In fact, this is another frustrating kit from Trumpeter...! I won't blame them for the pit floor error as Hasegawa and even Aires did the same! I just saw it last week. However, the nose problem is another story!

 

Brian's set is a must have as even using a Dhaene's spinner will not solve the terrible dimensional problem of the nose. The set is not perfect as I think that the mouth should be a little bit wider for a B2 but this is really a nitpicker remark! The time saved thanks to the use of this set is tremendous so purchasing it is a no brainer...

[thierry laurent]

Hi,

 

I made some corrections and added some points I missed earlier:

 

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Junkers Ju-87B version TWEAKS LIST

 

 

TYPE: Junkers Ju 87B2

 

SCALE: 1/32

 

COMPANY: Trumpeter

 

KIT NUMBER: 03214

 

MOLD CREATION DATE: 2012

 

 

TWEAKS LIST VERSION 1.1 (publication date: November 2014)

 

Compiled by Thierry Laurent

 

The following list is intended to help modelers in improving scale accuracy of an airplane model replica. In no way is it intended to support or be offensive towards a scale model company.
As such, it is only the result of a progressive process and is in no way intended to be absolute or even comprehensive. Hence, it is intended to focus on commonly admitted discrepancies and will probably not cover some errors. It is up to the modeler to decide whether correcting the listed issues is worth the time and money he will have to invest in the quest for accuracy process.

No aftermarket correction or detail set is mentioned in this document as the availability of such items may be very variable. Hence, refer to other LSP sections to find relevant information. Moreover, aftermarket sets do not necessarily correct all listed issues. Please refer accordingly to relevant documentation.

 

 

 

GENERAL REVIEW

 

 

 

• The kit is essentially made of flat light grey parts. The moulding is generally crisp with engraved panel lines, rivets and details. A sheet of 16 photoetched parts is included to detail some areas. The kit has black vinyl tires.

 

• General kit dimensions are correct. However, the complete nose assembly is noticeably under scaled (essentially in the vertical dimension). This spoils the plane profile and does not gives to the kit the “brute†look of the actual airframe.

 

• Overall fit is generally excellent. However, there are some exceptions such as the floor to cockpit sides' construction.

 

• All panel lines and prominent rivets are recessed. Note there are no protruding rivets whereas the full scale airframe had such rivets everywhere.  

 

• Clear parts are very thin and transparent.

 

• If the rudder is separate, the ailerons and stab moving parts can only be glued in neutral position.  

 

• The kit has a full and very nicely detailed Jumo 211 engine but it is noticeably under scaled.

 

• There were two main distinct Bertha types divided into multiple batches: the B1 and the B2. The kit has generally B2 type features (and markings) but some other prominent ones such as the bombing window, the lower nose section or the radiator bath width and depth rather look like the ones of the B1. As the last B1 batch incorporated some elements associated with the B2 (such as the late exhausts), it is probably easier to change the kit into a late B1 if the modeler is not prepared for heavy rework.

 

• The kit gives a large choice of weapons but, except the SC50 bombs; none of them may be used on a Ju87B-2.

 

 

FUSELAGE (from front to rear)

 

 

• The whole front nose section of the Trumpeter kit is far too short vertically (nearly 3mm) and also too narrow horizontally (between 1 and 2mm from top to bottom). The rear section at the level of the engine bulkhead is correctly shaped but, up to the propeller, the cowl cross sections are progressively becoming too narrow. Rebuilding this is asking for a time-consuming and difficult work. Unfortunately, no other released B/R 1/32 kit has a correctly dimensioned nose. So, the easiest solution asks for the use of a correct aftermarket nose. Note this last solution would also solve most of the other problems described here under in this section.

 

• The spinner is far too small. The diameter should be three millimeters larger. Similarly, the VS5 propeller blades are too small and not correctly shaped. Unfortunately, there is no easy way to correct the spinner without rebuilding the nose front section. 

 

• The intake on the top of the nose cowl is wrongly shaped and should be rebuilt. Moreover, the top section of the nose is missing the subtle curve in the cowling on the port side of the intake.

 

• The exhausts row opening is too small (noticeably too narrow and a little bit too short) because of the nose dimension problem. The exhausts are also under scaled and their ends are not opened. In any case, fully opened exhaust ends would be better. Hence, it is recommended to hollow-out fully the parts or replace them with aftermarket ones if a correctly dimensioned nose is rebuilt or used from an aftermarket set.

 

• The H7 intake on the nose starboard side is a little bit too basic: its front face asks for improvement (a mesh should be added).

 

• The kit radiator is closer to a B1 type. Indeed, the front opening is too narrow for a B2. The radius of the B2 opening is clearly larger. Moreover, the front lower nose cowling is B1-shaped. To get a correct B2 profile, the nose cross-section under the propeller should be corrected as the kit has the round shaped section of the B1 type rather than the V-shaped one of the B2. So, this part of the kit also asks for heavy work to get a correct B2. It is hence probably easier to change the kit into a late B1 if a full new correct nose is not used. Note also that the side profile is not correct either as the lower edge should not have this slope. Last, the front face has too thick gill details and does not depict the positional shutter blades. Oddly, a photoetch part PE6 is only given for the hidden back side. Besides the main dimensions issue, thinning the front part or, better, replacing it with photoetch shutters is recommended. 

 

• The kit has a small panel behind the radiator on each side of the nose whereas this should only be present on the port side against the J14 bulkhead (to hide the engine starter hole).

 

• The kit has a fantasy gap that shall be filled in between the rear end of the radiator cowl flaps and the underside of the nose (aft of the radiator bath).

 

• If the kit has a very detailed albeit too small engine, it has no element of the ducts located over the radiator flaps, the flaps actuators or the rad brace apertures and coolant pipes (in front of the bomb cradle).  So, even if it is not the most visible one, this area should be corrected and detailed.

 

• The bombing window with two Perspex sheets (V2 & V3) located at each end of the viewing funnel J11 behind the pilot pedals is an early feature seen on the A or B1. The belly window was replaced by a pivoting panel on the B2 when it was realized in operations that the fixed window was quickly covered by oil leaks. The kit window funnel is not accurately shaped but this is fortunately not really visible. To make a correct B2, the kit lacks the pivoting shutter opening mechanism that was made of gears, levers and chains controlled via a turn wheel on a long stalk located on the port side of the funnel. This should be added as the turn wheel is visible between the port pedal and the control stick. So, for a B2, paint the lower window as the belly and paint the internal side with RLM02.
• The centerline bomb release arm L19 is incorrect for a Bertha mark. This type of release gear with a curved strap located halfway along the length of the two arms was the one fitted to the Dora type. Correcting this asks for removing this strap and replacing it with one large rod supported by four support stalks welded between the perpendicular rod and the two side arms. Some other small details shall also be added on the arms. Note that the release device was not exactly the same for the 250 and 500 kg bombs. Indeed, in the former case, it had a rectangular shape whereas in the latter one it had a trapeze shape because of the larger diameter of the heavier bomb. Last, the sway braces molded on the belly are simplified. There shall be more details.

 

• The rudder actuators are missing on each side. They shall be scratchbuilt.

 

WING/WEAPONS

 

 

• The kit has a SC 1800 Satan 1.8 ton main bomb whereas the Ju87 B could not lift a bomb heavier than the half a ton SC500. So, to have a fully armed plane, a SC250 or 500 shall be sourced somewhere else. Keep also in mind that a full normal war load for a Ju87B did not exceed 1 metric ton.

 

• The kit has symmetric walkways whereas the starboard side had only the longer one. So, the front one shall be sanded and the panel and rivet lines restored.

 

• It is not recommended to glue the B12/B20 and B7/B26 parts combinations to add them later on the wing tips. It is more appropriate to glue each part to the corresponding wing half.

 

• Oddly, the instruction sheet does not cover the MG 17 wing guns in spite of the fact the parts are included: gun muzzles are A32 parts whereas fairings halves are B2, B3, B5, and B16 ones. The MG 17 machine guns wells are reasonably detailed. Some small additional details and cables may nonetheless be added. For instance, the well door was secured by a strap. There are also useless covered MG fairings (B22, 23, 25 & 27) but it seems these were only fitted to some Doras. Last, a round panel is seemingly missing on the top of the wing, right behind each gun fairing.

 

• The instruction sheet only shows the dive brakes positioned in the open position. They shall be turned to be glued in the closed position as they were normally never deployed on the ground.

 

• The kit unfortunately has the ETC 500 faired bomb racks (WD6 & WD13) used on some late Doras. So, they are useless.

 

• The WB 81 gun pods were only used by the Dora variants, not the Berthas.

 

• The ETC 50 small racks (WD2, WD3, WD14 & WD15) are only given for the small bombs clusters but such bombs were rarely if ever used. Such ETC racks shall also be used for the SC50 bombs. However, they will require fixing details such as hooks and sway braces. To get a more accurate look, cut each end straight and add the missing details. Note that there are also wartime pictures showing the ETC 50 with a curved edge at the rear. This may be simply reproduced as well: cut the rear edge straight and then reverse the front and rear to have the curved edge at the rear. Indeed, the actual pylons look like rectangular pylons with a curved trailing edge. Nonetheless, note that the R2 preserved in Chicago has yet a different type of rack (both ends are rounded without any slope) but it is not known if these are authentic Stuka early ETC racks. So, it is obvious there were fairings variations.

 

• The drop tanks may be used to change the plane into a R. However, they shall again be used with modified ETC 50 racks rather than the erroneous ETC 500. This required scratchbuilding all the fixings, fuel hoses and sway braces. Note that the tanks used the same type of iron belt as the fighters but it was a little bit different as it was not hung by a central point. There were two hanging points (one under each rack). The drop tank pressure tube is far too small. Replace it by a section of brass tube. Last, the filling plugs are also too small. Either scratchbuild them or get them from drop tanks from another kit. Last, the drop tanks generally had visible irregular weld marks in each recessed line.

 

COCKPIT

 

 

• The cockpit tub is reasonably accurate and detailed. However, many small details (dials, levers, knobs, cables and so on) are missing or not accurate.

 

• The main problem is the infamous floor step found in all Stuka kits. In fact, no Stuka had such a step. This error probably comes from the fact that the seat is located very high on a complex support structure and that the control stick is also higher on the cockpit front bulkhead structure. There are two ways to solve this: either cut the front section of J47 to glue it at the level of the rear one but this also requires cutting the front section with the stick. Another, easier, solution may be chosen: doing cuts in the front section where there is no floor and keeping plastic “beams†where the two seat supports are located as well as on each side edge of the floor will help in keeping cockpit structure integrity. In this case, a lower floor should simply be added under the modified one. Note that whatever may be the chosen solution, the two reinforcing spar structures (part A8 & A10) will have to be modified. The central section of A10 needs to be removed and at least the front beam of the similar section of A8 must be removed as well.

 

• The correction of the floor will also require the lengthening of the front sections of the cockpit side parts (H5 & H10). Moreover, some details such as the front oxygen bottle shall also be corrected. Indeed, the oxygen bottle regulator part L31 shall have the same length than part L34 (a section corresponding to the three lower ranks of holes shall be added).

 

• The floor section with the pedal supports (located behind the front bulkhead) must also be cut as the pedals are actually hanging from behind the IP. Note as well that the pedal type is incorrect. They shall be replaced by accurate ones with the correct hanging structure. Last, this area will need some new details and, for a B2, at least the aforementioned belly shutter operating wheel and stalk must be added.

 

• The J2 plastic instrument panel looks flat and clunky. Even if a decal is given for the dials, rebuilding it or replacing it with an aftermarket one will result in a more authentic replica. Note that the kit sprues give two panel options (part J28 for a B1). So check closely which type you want to build to choose the most appropriate one.

 

• The Revi C12 gunsight asks for more details or replacement by an aftermarket one. Moreover, its power cable shall be added.

 

• The pilot seat dimensions are globally ok but the part also looks clunky. It corresponds to the type used on late Berthas (early ones used a shorter seat with a rounded back) and Doras. The kit part does not look like embossed metal and the front and side edges are far too thick. Moreover, the back seat cushion looks as stiff as a wood plank. Correcting the seat is highly recommended as the area is very visible. Masquerading part of the problems with epoxy-made cushions is possibly a partial solution.

 

• Note that the kit has no pilot or navigator seat belts. Accordingly, getting aftermarket ones is a requirement.

 

• The upper front section of the structure supporting the radios was armored on Stukas after the start of the Battle of Britain. This was done progressively. Many Stukas used in the Greece and Balkans campaign were not yet upgraded whereas field armour seemed quite common in North Africa. If necessary, this may be easily scratchbuilt or taken from a photoetched set.

 

• The two E5A & S6b radio boxes are a little bit too small and the details on their front face look plain and far too simplified. Moreover, many details and cables are missing.

 

• The casting of the navigator seat part J45 is not very good as the rods are flat on the visible side whereas their section should be completely round. Using an epoxy putty cushion is probably the best way to solve this as; otherwise, the part should be completely rebuilt.

 

• The straps on the MG 15 ammo boxes parts S23 shall be replaced.

 

• The rear machine gun ammo case box looks too stiff for a B2. In fact, this was a rigid tubular structure closed with heavy fabric. So, this should have creases and bumps rather than being perfectly flat. Moreover, there were other surface details such as a zipper to empty the cases. Nonetheless, it seems the B1 used a rigid box similar to the kit one.

 

 

 

CANOPY

 

 

• Most of the vertical canopy framing structure should be internal, not external as depicted on the kit parts. Correcting this is really difficult. Indeed, this requires:

 

• drilling the fasteners from the external to the internal side,
• sanding the horizontal external frames,
• adding or at least painting new ones on the internal side,
• filling the fastener holes with RLM66 paint.

 

• The movable sections of the greenhouse had some opening/lock levers that shall be added on the kit.

 

 

LANDING GEAR

 

 

• The main landing gear spats have an incorrect profile. The most obvious problem is the lower edge line. Another problem is the too forward position of the wheel axle inside them. It is possible to improve them but replacing them with ones from another kit or resin ones is far easier.

 

• Note that the Ju87B had 815x290 tires. So, do not compare them with Dora ones to assess their accuracy as the latter were larger (840x300). The use of vinyl tire is a problem as there is no easy way to weight them for a fully loaded plane. Replacing them with resin ones is recommended.

 

• The wheel spats do not have the so-called Jericho trumpet small siren propellers. The kit has just the plugs used when the sirens were removed. This is not a problem for a late Bertha as the sirens were removed from most of the planes after 1940. However, for an early war Stuka, scratchbuilding them or getting them from another kit may be required.  Note as well that the rod supporting such propellers/plugs is far too long on the kit.

 

 

OTHER REMARKS

 

 

• Three Ju87B2 marking options are included:

• T6-KC, 2/ Stg2 Immelman, Russian front, September 1941
• L1-AU, 10/LG1, Tramecourt, France, July 1940
• 6G-CC, 2/ STG1, Russian front, December 1941

The accuracy of the decals was not closely assessed but is seems that the dimension/type of the Balkenkreuz is incorrect. So double check this.

• The kit was also released as a tropical Ju87R. However, the sprues were not changed and the kit does not have the required squared air intake or the tropical filter used on the B2/R2 Trop.

 

_________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

The following sources were used to build this list:

 

Modelling essentials:

 

• Androvic, Bernad & Bily, Junkers 87 Stuka, MBI/Sagitta, 1992.
• Creek, Junkers Ju 87 from Dive-Bomber to Tank-Buster 1935-1945, Classic Publications, 2012.
• Michulec & Willis, Junkers Ju87 Stuka, Mushroom model publications, Stratus, N° 6125, 2008.

 

Other used references:

• ---, Junkers Ju87 Stuka,  Famous Airplanes of the World, Bunrin-Do, N°11, 1988.
• Aders & Kit, Junkers Ju-87 Stuka, Special la derniere guerre, Editions Atlas, 1979.
• Erfurth, Junkers Ju 87, Black Cross, volume 5, Midland Publishing, 2004.
• Filley, Ju 87 in Action Part 1, Aircraft in Action series, N° 73, Squadron Signal Publications, 1986.
• Jouineau & Leonard, Junkers Ju87 from 1936 to 1945, Histoire & Collections, 2003.
• Hall, Junkers Ju 87 Stuka, Warpaint series N°3, Hall Park, 2000.
• Murawski, Junkers Ju 87, vol.1, N°25, Kagero, 2006.
• Murawski, Junkers Ju 87, vol.2, N°27, Kagero, 2006.
• Murawski, Junkers Ju 87, vol.3, N°30, Kagero, 2006.
• Murawski, Junkers Ju 87, vol.4, N°42, Kagero, 2006.
• Nohara, Junkers Ju87D/G Stuka, Aero Detail, N°11, Art box, Dai Nippon Kaiga CO, 1994.
• Nowara, Junkers Ju 87 the stuka story, Caler Illustrated series, 1967.
• Robertson & Scarborough, Ju 87 Stuka, Classic Aircraft n°5, Patrick Stephens Limited, 1977.

• some magazines articles (more particularly from Replic)

 

• some web pages (more particularly LSP, Hyperscale and technical manuals on www.avialogs.com)

[Tony T]

Thanks for the list Thierry, but it's rendered another kit as unworthy. The fine chord of the trade off between blissful ignorance and suspension of disbelief has been truly snipped.

 

I do appreciate these run-downs though wish there could be a ten-point "must do" list taking up just a few lines and "footnotes" that elaborate. It's all a bit overwhelming at times unless you really know the subject.

 

Tony

[thierry laurent]

I know...

 

The problem is simple: some issues are terrible for some whereas others don't care and are far more annoyed by other points! So, it is difficult to stress the "most important" points! I know that trying to be as exhaustive as possible may give the feeling that obtaining an accurate replica is always a tremendous job. Indeed, it is quite difficult to correct major shape issues if you do not want to spend more money on an aftermarket set or if it is simply not available. However, most problems may be easily solved. When I build the first tweak list, I even considered giving for each point the easiness to correct each problem. However, it is not really possible as there is no "skill standard" and in some cases, adding aftermarket sets is more difficult than scratchbuilding!

 

There is another aspect I never mentioned in the tweak list but that has a very important impact for the modeller: the global price of a modelling project!

 

This kit is quite cheap and the others 1/32 Stukas are not better. So, with some aftermarket, you can get a reasonably good result for an acceptable price. I'm sure Tamiya or ZM would release a more accurate kit which would not ask for this amount of aftermarket sets but would surely cost three times the price of this kit. And even in this case, there is NO perfect kit. So, even if it would be shorter, we may do a tweak list for any of the Tamiya WW2 planes!

 

Last, as I mentioned initially, the sources regarding the Stuka are generally so-so... The nose error is simply not acceptable but for the other problems, I won't blame Trumpeter as in spite of the time I dedicated to the research job, there are still many aspects for which I never found the final word:

- when was changed the MG 15 ammo case box from a rigid to a souple one?

- when changed the pilot seat type?

- when was the cockpit painted in RLM 66?

- what is the relationship between the propeller types and the plane marks?

- were some types of weapons used by this or that mark?

- what explains the differences between the different types of ETC 50 pylons?

- etc.

 

Finally, it is also possible to minimize the work: change the kit into a B1 and many problems will disappear!

 

Cheers

 

Thierry

[thierry laurent]

Another useful information: the front cockpit section under the seat and on the lower port and starboard sides was made of corrugated metal sheet. Evergreen sheet "Metal Siding" 4526 looks to be the most appropriate and easiest solution to rebuild them.

[Tnarg]

 

Finally, it is also possible to minimize the work: change the kit into a B1 and many problems will disappear!

 

Cheers

 

Thierry

 

I like the idea of a B1 next to their A1 in Spanish Civil War / Legion Condor markings. The list is long, but would you consider issuing a modified list for the B1 variant? I'd imagine several of us might want to go that direction.

Does Brian's resin nose kit make the B1 better or is it only appropriate for the B2?

Any suggestions on the propeller/spinner options for the B1?  (I'm thinking of Henry's resin set, but wondering if it is appropriate).

 

Finally, I am amazed at the work you have done to put together this and so many other tweak lists. This is the substance of a real review, which almost no one takes the time to pull together. With this information, people can make an informed decision about the kit, as opposed to a review that shows a few photos of the sprues and doesn't even attempt to dry fit the parts together.

 

Thank you for the great efforts you have made,

Tnarg

[mywifehatesmodels]

Thierry,

 

I love the tweak lists and how you approach them. Thank you for taking on such an enormous task and doing it in a no nonsense, matter of fact manner. While many of these things would be details I would never notice, or even thought of, it's great to have a checklist to go through and decide what parts I think that I may change, or what I can live with. What's "accurate enough" is a very subjective topic, but having as much information as possible is never a bad thing. It's all in how one presents it and I think you do a fine job at that.

 

Sincerely,

 

John

Edited November 20, 2014 by mywifehatesmodels

[thierry laurent]

Thanks for such comments!

 

Indeed, I made such lists as this is the type of information I'd like to have. So, initially, I did them for my own use.

 

Regarding the B1, it is a bit a curate's egg. Indeed, the kit radiator bath, lower nose shape and rigid ammo case box are B1 features. However, as mentioned before I cannot say if this type of box was still used on a late B1 or a R1 with exhausts such as the kit ones. Moreover, this will not solve the nose size issue. Henry's spinner is correctly sized but you cannot use it on the Trumpeter nose without major work as the diameter is more than 2mm larger! Moreover, the propeller blades are the wooden ones whereas it seems that at least a majority of B1 used the narrower metal blades. As far as I know, currently, only the Fawcett B2 correction set has such blades besides the wood-made ones.

 

So, if you are not mad about accuracy, build the kit as it is and just modify the propeller blades or try to find a picture of a late B1 with the wood ones. The spats may be noticeably improved with a reasonable amount of work. Find late B1/R1 markings and add a resin Sc250 bomb from Eduard or MDC and you'll have a nice albeit not accurate Stuka. Tigger's kit shows that the result may be quite impressive in spite of the nose discrepancy.

 

If you want to do a B2, Brian' set is currently the best solution as this solve the radiator bath depth issue and this is a nasty problem to correct. Moreover, this also solve the main problem (the nose end) and the parts are compatible with the Dhaene's spinner.

 

 

Hope this helps

 

Thierry

[LSP_K2]

I've seen this "Brian" set mentioned several times, but have no idea what you're referring to. Is this someone from this site?

[LSP_K2]

As regards references, I don't know if the Osprey Air Vanguard book on the Stuka would be helpful to you or not, but I didn't see it in your list. A quick check of our database reveals that the 3rd Kagero volume is not present (though I thought I had all four volumes); any chance you could send me a cover scan for inclusion?

 

Also (definitely not related to the B Stuka), I just added this MBI Ju 87A book, for those that may find it interesting.

[mywifehatesmodels]

I've seen this "Brian" set mentioned several times, but have no idea what you're referring to. Is this someone from this site?

That would be Brian Fawcett. I don't know if he's a regular here, but I believe he did post some info on this set here, at one time. Given that he was badgered by some "expert", I wouldn't be surprised if he didn't come back.

 

Here is the set:  http://www.fawcettmodelsandpatterns.co.uk/1-32-junkers-ju-87-b2-r2-correction-set

 

John

[LSP_K2]

Terrific. Thanks, John. Given the expense of the set (plus donor kit cost), this is one I'll probably have to let walk on by. Darn shame too, as I really like the B model Stuka.

[mywifehatesmodels]

Kevin,

 

This is one that I've been heavily debating, too. I knew I had to jump on the Anton because the chances of anyone else doing it are pretty much nil. I'm still holding my breath for Hasegawa or Tamiya to come to the rescue. However, now that I have the Anton under my belt, I may give a little more consideration to Trumpy's Bertha and this thread would surely be a great help for that. I have a lot of other projects that are in line ahead of another Stuka, however. So, there's still time for Tamiygawa or Hasemiya to rescue me.

 

John