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Fisher 1/32 Ryan STM-2


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#1 LSP_Kevin

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 09:30 AM

I promised Paul that I'd build his Ryan STM kit in RAAF colours, but I've had my thunder stolen somewhat by Brent, who's already doing it! His is a great built, but I'll soldier on undeterred. I'll be building this in tandem with the HK Do 335 test shot, so they'll both the jostling for time and bench space. All I've done so far is give all the parts a scrub with an old toothbrush in warm, soapy water:

 

an21ID.jpg

 

Yes, they're all back in the box! I need to study the instructions thoroughly before getting too far ahead of myself. In the meantime, if you're not familiar with this kit, you can check out my review for more info.

 

With luck, I'll be back soon with an update.

 

Kev


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#2 Peterpools

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 11:17 AM

Kev

Awesome kit and looking forward to your build as mine sits in the box, so very close to the bench - waiting for the day.

Keep 'em coming

Peter


On the bench: Trumpeter A6A Intruder VA-165 Boomers

USS Constellation 1971-72


#3 Out2gtcha

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 06:01 PM

I promised Paul that I'd build his Ryan STM kit in RAAF colours, but I've had my thunder stolen somewhat by Brent, who's already doing it!

 

 

How bout the camo/yellow RAAF STM instead of the all yellow one, just for something different?



#4 LSP_Kevin

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 08:58 PM

How bout the camo/yellow RAAF STM instead of the all yellow one, just for something different?

 

I thought about it Brian, but to be honest I don't really like that scheme all that much. My personal preference is for the NMF one, but after after the Meteor, Texan and RoboCop builds, I'll be glad to give silver paint a miss for a while!

 

Kev



#5 Simmo.b

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Posted 09 June 2014 - 03:32 AM

Looking forward to seeing your take on this Kev.
Cheers
Brent

#6 JohnB

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Posted 09 June 2014 - 03:43 AM

This will be a nice one Kev. I look forward to following along. :)


Be careful of the toes that you step on today for they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow.


#7 shepard

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Posted 12 June 2014 - 12:34 PM

following here Kev!

 

:popcorn:


Done:

 

1/32 Revell Arado 196

 

1/24 Airfix  "sea mosquito"

 

On the bench:

 

cleaning up....or trying to

 

 

 


#8 LSP_Kevin

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Posted 12 June 2014 - 12:53 PM

Thanks for checking in fellas. I've actually made some good progress with this one now, though I've run out of time to take photos and post an update. The cockpit sidewalls are painted, as are the seats and most of the other cockpit components. Next I'll be working on the instrument panels, along with trying to obtain a convincing wood effect on the cockpit floor without decals (must get me some of those!).

 

I'll snap some photos and post them tomorrow.

 

Kev


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#9 MARU5137

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Posted 12 June 2014 - 05:06 PM

Sound like a good choice fir a build and going to be following this.

:thumbsup:

Res Non Verba .

La calma è la virtù dei forti !

Potius Mori quam foedari.


#10 LSP_Kevin

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Posted 13 June 2014 - 11:03 AM

OK, time for an update then! I started by cleaning up the seats, which have a nasty resin seam down their backs. The right one in the photo below is 'before', and the left one 'after':

 

Izn2PB.jpg

 

You can also see that I managed to uncover a couple of small pin holes, which were duly filled with CA gel and sanded back. I don't think it matters all that much though, as preliminary test-fitting suggests that little will be seen of the rear of the seats. Here they are after painting and weathering:

 

E5hdqI.jpg

 

Cockpit sidewalls with the detail parts added:

 

mcZ12f.jpg

 

I deliberately over-highlighted the black parts to give them some hope of standing out once the fuselage is closed up. I initially thought there was a lot more detail to add than that, but it turns out that the kit supplies two of everything with regard to the cockpit detail parts. A nice touch! Clearly there's scope here for a lot more detail should you be so inclined. I'm happy to stay with what you get in the box at this point.

 

Here's my feeble attempt at creating a convincing wood effect for the cockpit floor:

 

sagFfU.jpg

 

I was going for a plywood effect, so I'm hoping it'll look more convincing once it's installed in the cockpit. Since I used the 'dragged oils' method for this, I'm gonna have to leave it dry for at least 24 hours before attempting to progress. (For the record, it's Raw Sienna dragged over a gloss-coated Tamiya Deck Tan base, using a combination of a square brush and some packing sponge.) Any tips on improving it will be gratefully accepted!

 

Finally, here's the control columns and linkages (a 'torque tube' according to the instructions):

 

7J2w6t.jpg

 

This will fit into the longitudinal slot in the cockpit floor. I'd love to have the time to really go to town on the cockpit in this kit, but a lack of both time and references makes it impractical. Still, I think once everything's assembled and in position, it will look pretty good.

 

More soon!

 

Kev



#11 ericg

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Posted 13 June 2014 - 11:58 AM

Good progress Kev, you will certainly give Brent a run for his money on this one. The wood floor needs a bit more grain though.

Eric

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#12 Out2gtcha

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Posted 13 June 2014 - 12:51 PM

Looks good so far K1   :)



#13 Whitey

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Posted 13 June 2014 - 06:35 PM

I'm not convinced about using oils to simulate wood-grain. The oils take too long to dry properly.

 

All of the wood-grain on the Roland is done with Tamiya acrylics. I started my Roland's interior with an overall coat of Yellow, then a "blotching overspray" of thin Desert Yellow (light tan) and when they were dry brushed Brown over the top to give the final look of a "grain". All done over a day's modelling. The exterior was sealed with Clear Yellow and it completes the effect very well. I'm sure other can do a much better job but this method looks good and is relatively quick to do.

 

My attempts at practicing wood-grain on scrap pieces with oil was frustrating because it took days to dry and even then was almost "unhandleable" until sealed. Then more waiting for that to dry.

 

I haven't worked out how I am going to do the propeller yet. Random grain is not the right look.

 

Your STM should look really cool mate. Looking forward to watching the rest of your build.



#14 Out2gtcha

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Posted 13 June 2014 - 08:18 PM

I'm not convinced about using oils to simulate wood-grain. The oils take too long to dry properly.

 

All of the wood-grain on the Roland is done with Tamiya acrylics. I started my Roland's interior with an overall coat of Yellow, then a "blotching overspray" of thin Desert Yellow (light tan) and when they were dry brushed Brown over the top to give the final look of a "grain". All done over a day's modelling. The exterior was sealed with Clear Yellow and it completes the effect very well. I'm sure other can do a much better job but this method looks good and is relatively quick to do.

 

My attempts at practicing wood-grain on scrap pieces with oil was frustrating because it took days to dry and even then was almost "unhandleable" until sealed. Then more waiting for that to dry.

 

I haven't worked out how I am going to do the propeller yet. Random grain is not the right look.

 

Your STM should look really cool mate. Looking forward to watching the rest of your build.

 

 

I felt the same way when I first started Whitey.

 

I found a VERY nice solution, as I really liked  the look of Tamiya acrylic Desert Yellow with varied stained oils streaked for the grain itself, but like you, HATED the unacceptable drying times. 

If you can, or if you have a "craft" type hobby store (not sure what they are called in NZ, but here in the states we have "Hobby Lobbys") go there and pick up some "Japan Dryer" Its just a strange smelling (but not that hot) amber colored liquid you can mix up with the oils to thin them a bit, that takes the drying time from days/weeks to a matter of hrs/overnight.

 

WELL worth your time to pick some up.......................Ive used it on every one of my builds that I used the acrylic over oil for wood grain, and each time I was able to clear over the props the next or day after next.

I used it on my Planet Models XF5U-1 to great effect, and used Japan Dryer with NO thinner on the oils, and the props were completely dry the very next day.

I also used it on my WnW DH-2, in combination with oil thinner and it was dry the day after that with no issues as well.


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#15 LSP_Kevin

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Posted 13 June 2014 - 09:05 PM

Thanks for your tips and advice fellas. Ironically I think the wood grain effect looks better in the photo than it does in person! I think part of the issue is the colours I've chosen, and I suspect I needed to use a darker base coat. Anyway, I think once the seats go in you won't be able to see all that much of it in the cockpit, so I'll chalk it up to experience and probably use decals next time!

 

Kev


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