229 replies to this topic

[Ta152H1]

Time for me to put to good use all the great info I've got from the members here,including the late Charles Metz to whom I'd like to dedicate this build!
The subject I've chosen is "Moonbeam McSwine"; Capt. William T Whisner's P-51D-10-NA (S/N 44237).
This will be a (sort of) OOB build in that I'll keep scratchbuilding details to a minimum (won't follow Dodgem's threads for a few weeks not to run the risk of getting "inspired"!) and will "only" use Roy Sutherland's detailing sets,HGW seatbelts and Jerry's spinner/prop.
I've started following the instructions and have built the engine first thing first,and I've been amazed at how this Merlin has been engeneered...it's a little masterpiece requiring only a few linkages,pipes and wiring to turn it into a little jewel!
Yesterday and today I've shot a little aluminum paint on the fuse halves and upper wings.I've decided to do that in order to avoid handling the model as much as I can while painting it.Ok..I'll handle it a gazillion timews throughout the build but that won't frighten me the least for the paints I'll use are scratch and abuse proof...at least I hope!
I've been using Alclads for almost 8 years now but I've opted for Gunze's Super Metallics almost exclusively this time around.These paints are great,must be thinned 1(/paint):2(Leveling Thinner),dry rock-hard to a very smooth finish and won't peel off even if you use duct tape to mask on them!
The fuselage has been sprayed with 01 Superfine Aluminum buffed with 6000 micromesh before lightening the center of each panel with 06 Chrome Silver.The panel above the radiator outlet is Gunze Super Metallic Steel...both panel modulation (gotta hate these new terms ) and the steel colored panel won't show in the pictures but they're there.
The upper wings got a base of Alclad Aluminum,followed by Gunze Super Fine Aluminum and selected areas have been misted with Gunze Chrome Silver.I wanted to fill in rivets and panel lines with Silver Wax,but refrained from doing that out of fear of having paint,decals and dry transfer stencils not stick to the surface.
Oh well.....hope S/N 44-14237 have been flown,cleaned and rubbed enough times to have rivets and panel lines show!
Cheers
Lou

Edited by Ta152H1, 30 August 2012 - 10:24 AM.

[A.Wolf Grant]

I certainly applaud you dedicating your build to Dr Charles Metz, an apt and appropriate gesture of which I'm sure others would agree.
And ... wow, great start already I'm already chomping at the bit to see more. I'm following this for sure.

Grant

[LSP_Kevin]

I certainly applaud you dedicating your build to Dr Charles Metz, an apt and appropriate gesture of which I'm sure others would agree.

That actually makes it a really good candidate for the Fallen Comrades GB. Lou?

Kev

[Ta152H1]

Thanks for your kind comment Grant!I think it does Kev...that'll surely keep me motivated!Today I'll mask a few smaller panels and hit them with a slightly darker shade.

Cheers
Lou

Edited by Ta152H1, 20 July 2012 - 07:55 AM.

[LSP_Kevin]

I think it does Kev...that'll surely keep me motivated!

Do you want me to move it over?

Kev

[Ta152H1]

Thanks Kev...PM sent! ;-)

[Ta152H1]

I take advantage of every free hour to carry on with the build.I've moved to the pilot's seat and I've nearly finished "correcting" it a bit.....I still have to glue the bracket on the upper edge of the backrest but I'll wait...don't want to knock it off a thousand times in the next week!I've started making a new pack out of Tamiya two-part epoxy since the one supplied with the kit isn't too convincing IMO, thenI've wrapped 0,3mm solder around the conduits right behind both sides of the seat and scraped off the spring-loaded seat adjusting rods (they're just semi-round lumps on the kit's part) to fit two 0,5mm pieces of Plastruct rod slipped inside a 0,6mm spring at their place.This spring(s) can be easily found inside oil seals (check your local Joe's Auto Repair) or bought off eBay.They come in many diameters and make for great engine and oxy hoses.They're made of steel and they're quite resilient even if you do anneal them,therefore your best bet would be putting a lenght of copper wire inside the spring as a core and bend it as you like.
Tamiya's Mustang is as close to perfection as a kit can be,but in my opinion these parts (cionduits and seat adjusting springs) could have easily enough been found on the sprues in the first place even if,truth be told,they'll be nearly invisible once the fuselage halves will be glued tiogether!
Cheers
Lou

[A.Wolf Grant]

Oh, that's clever. Nice job.

Grant

[harvey]

Been using this for years......Harv

[Ta152H1]

The seat is finished and now off into the painting boot it goes!I could have detailed it more but I want to keep mods to a minimum and save all the efforts for the next Tammy Mustang...an F-51 perhaps?At this point if only somebody would make zero-lenght rocket pylons and those little post-War details in the cockpit...Roy and Jerry...you lis'ning?
Looks like Tamiya's going to release one sooner or later...the location points for the hardpoints on the inner side of lower wings are there and on the (Terrible) CrMo-Steel PE ballistic sheet there are six round thingies that look like........well.......
Cheers
Lou

[A.Wolf Grant]

Nice and sharp.

Grant

[Ta152H1]

Thanks Grant...I want to experiment with painting this time around,especially focusing on the 'pit and NMF.I've steered clear from any form of superdetailing.I'll only further detail what will be seen.In this case the visible part of UC bays (I'll keep the door closed because I much prefer the look of the P51 this way) and the cockpit.I've got a dozen superdetailing WIPS going on (I've attached three pictures of the latest WIP; a 1/48 Zvezda DB601 turned into a 605 for my Zvezda G-2 conversion) and I'd rather avoid burn-out with this build...it's so relaxing and rewarding that I'd love to enjoy it till the end!
Cheers
Lou

[Daywalker]

Impressive work on the seat details, may just have to steal borrow those for mine!

[Ta152H1]

Impressive work on the seat details, may just have to steal borrow those for mine!

Thanks Frank but you'd wanto to take a look at someone else's thread if you reeally want to add details mate !
I've just removed the IFF component on the back of the headrest because it was ionly fitted to very late machines and on some P51 on the PTO.
Cheers
Lou

[dodgem37]

Very nice detail work. If I may make a suggestion, the top of the spring 'connects' to the bottom of the tab.

Sincerely,
Mark