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Bf109F-4/Z Trop, 3./JG27, Hans Joachim Marseille, N. Africa, Feb. 1942


dodgem37

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Thank you, Grant. It'll get busier with COLOR!

 

Thank you, Guru. I'm hoping it will turn out nicely.

 

Thank you, Ads. I will do my best.

 

Thank you, Jan.

 

Thank you, Kevin. Love what you've been doing. My hope is to keep it going.

 

Thank you, Brewer.

 

DougN!!, long time. Thanks for stopping by. The fuel line is a mock-up to figure out lengths. The two lines are pressed one into the others' insulation. It was easier to figure out lengths and shapes using two pieces. I shall not forget to insert a piece of clear stretched sprue. Thank you for the compliment.

 

Thank you very much, Lou.

 

Jerry, it's good to hear your voice over here. Thank you.

 

The cockpit is done. I just wish the tail wheel area were closed off. I had my share of that with the K-4 build. But I'll muddle thru the tail wheel area and make the corrections which I have found since the K-4 build.

 

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Left cockpit side. The F-4 didn't have a lot of stuff on the left side. I.P. is tacced in place.

 

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With the cockpit floor. Added straps to the pedals. I stood them off of the pedals a bit. Emergency canopy release handle and rod. I pressed the rod end with a pair of pliers, attached the handle and finished it off with a nut cut from a hex rod. I have found that when I run a graphite pencil over the rod the graphite makes the rod easier to see so that when I cut the rod with a single edge razer the cuts are more consistent.

 

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Walk-a-round. Here you can better see that I indented the buckle attachment location.

 

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The yellow ball is fish tank filtration material. Two hex nuts to fasten the .005 folded sheet base.

 

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Wing nuts to the side of the seat..

 

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I had forgotten to add the handle and rod on the right wall so while I was doing the left wall I made it. The ends are sanded to a point.

 

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A better view of the handle. I had accidentally scratched the circuit breaker so I needed to sand the detail off and replace it with .005 strip I cut from sheet. I see I need to insert the oxygen hose.

 

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Nuts! I lost the oxygen line nuts. Guess I make some new ones.

 

Many, many thanks for your wonderful comments and compliments. There is so much very good stuff going on from which to choose to follow and comment I appreciate you stopping by, looking in, and commenting.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

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Glorious detail Mark ... I'm soooo impressed with how neat and clean your work is. I have a feeling that any effort of mine would resemble a ball of glue with the occasional bit of wire being discernible :)

 

Looking forward to some more.

 

Grant.

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Guest Ta152H1

I LOVE this guy's work.....a TRUE modeler in his own right!He seldom if ever uses AM parts and scratchbuilds just about any detail.If I were a judge I'd take that in consderation over a similar model encrusted from tail to spinner with AM bits!

Thank you very much for sharing your exceptional skills and inspirational builds!

Cheers

Lou

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I LOVE this guy's work.....a TRUE modeler in his own right!He seldom if ever uses AM parts and scratchbuilds just about any detail.If I were a judge I'd take that in consderation over a similar model encrusted from tail to spinner with AM bits!

Thank you very much for sharing your exceptional skills and inspirational builds!

Cheers

Lou

 

I couldn't agree more! Nothing against AM parts, but a modeler who scratchbuilds the details is really kicking it up a notch!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you everyone for such wonderful compliments. You are over the TOP!

 

I've been muddling thru the tailwheel detail. Those of you who followed the K-4 build and are following this build will recognize some of these details.

 

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I started off by reworking the tailwheel so it would rotate. I used 1 brass rod and 2 brass tubes.

 

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Linework is for framing. I needed to remove the lower shaft guide because it interfered with the bulkhead. The brass rod terminates in the wheel and is the full length of the thinnner tube. Not so straight. Oh well. Because my drill bit was slightly larger than the thin tube I needed to shim the top to prevent wiggle. Square strip is structural support for the drilled rod.

 

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Those who followed the K-4 build will recognize this process. Building out the wall. Parts set against strips of double-sided adhesive film and then glued together. Left side fuselage.

 

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Right side fuselage.

 

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Rough parts.

 

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Here I've already taped the parts onto plastic, cut them out, and set them into their respective fuselage side. Once there, I located some pieces of double-sided adhesive film onto one set, pressed the fuselage halves together, and pressed one part onto the other part. This is the result. A relatively good fit.

 

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I taped them down onto scrap .010, traced them with a pencil, then cut them out.

 

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Detailed. The gadget with the rod moves the horizontal stabilizer flaps. The entire piece wouldn't fit with the wheel shaft in place so I had to cut the shady side away. Top hinge with .015 rod, bottom hinge with .010 rod. Flared the ends with a spent match head.

 

Last few below.

Edited by dodgem37
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In continuum;DSCN6673.jpg

Locating the structure. I taped down some scrap .010 strip instead of using the part I made. I was concerned about it getting superglued in place. Still need some horizontal strips.

 

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Not a lot of room for the top of that part. Luckily it can't be seen up in the hollow.

 

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Other side. The 2 vertical guidelines are for the location of the rudder control and, I think, a vertical structure. I have to double check. The space the rudder control needs to fit into is 4mm wide.

 

Time for chores.

Thanks for looking in!

Sincerely,

Mark

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As always Mark, inspirational work to say the least! You've had your fun now though, it's time to get back to the Mustang young man. Off you go, march, march, march,................ :rofl:

 

Seriously though, always a pleasure to see your work. :clap2:

 

Cheers'

Wolf

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