189 replies to this topic

[dodgem37]

Just a few images of stuff I started the other day to coincide with the painting of the K-4.


Sanded down the pedals and removed the interstice. Added electrical cable and cable attachment to the column.


Seat detail. To make the wing nut at the top back I pressed rod (.015) in a pair of pliers, trimmed, then sanded to shape. It's location isn't exact, but close enough for show. I don't know what the 3-holed strip is, but it's in a drawing. Seatbelt attachment point is bent, trimmed and shaped tin with fasteners.


Other side. The trim wheel base is there to make sure it all fits. I guess I should have removed it as it is in the way. Metal strip is .5mm wide. It's hard to see because it's so blurry, but within the seat at the top is a hex nut that attaches to the wing nut and an indent to accept the bolt that attaches the seat belt base.


Another angle. Below the seat belt fastener hex nut: attached to the punched disc is some .010 rod, the end was flared with a spent match head. .5mm.

That's all for now. I've got a fence to mend.
Thanks for looking in. Hope you don't mind another Bf109.
Sincerely,
Mark

[Ads]

nice shots mark - what settings did you use on what camera?

[A.Wolf Grant]

Here we go again ... excellent start Mark, will look forward to this one.

Grant

[ww2wings]

Mark Its the little details that make a big difference! Best Regards Scot

[dodgem37]

I use a Nikon Coolpix 5600. There are no settings. It's a point and shoot.

Thank you, Grant.

I think so as well Scot.

Sincerely,
Mark

[dodgem37]

I was able to get some stuff done on the cockpit.


A little walk-a-round of the floorboard and such. Added a bit of solder cabling.


I had thinned the pedals. I see I need to add straps.


I replaced some of the wiring to add some dimensional relief.


I drilled a bunch of holes for penetrating parts. I don't know what that white thing is on the back bulkhead but it shows in drawings. I used a spent match head to flare the part. .015 rod.


I did some stuff with the throttle.


This is the switch that goes below the throttle. Pressed .010 rod and trimmed.


Some IP work. I shot this angle to show the arming switch. It is at the top left of the panel. I trimmed it so it is pointing down. Not such a hot photo.


Other side. The two large round pieces are flare sprue that represent turn-knobs. The top right one is a .010 rod knob to adjust the clock.

A few more below.

[dodgem37]

Here is the right side of the cockpit.


Lots and lots of wiring exercises here. I have left off the fuel line and circuit breaker wiring for later. You will notice the oxygen lines have nuts threaded on them. Also, I sanded down the base of the two oxygen gauges. It's a bit thick. I was worried about messing this up. Dropped in two gauge bodies and their wiring. Made a new mapcase out of .005 sheet. Still have to figure out the oxygen hose.


Looking forward. Punched a nut for the oxygen regulator handle. Mocked-up fuel line. Threaded circuit breaker wiring from the back of the bulkhead to the circuit breaker. Seat out for clarity.


Looking rearward. Everything threads into the rear bulkhead somewhat nicely. Which is better than not. I'm hoping I can manage those oxygen line nuts to fall into place.

That's all for now. Chores await!
Thanks for looking in.
Sincerely,
Mark

[A.Wolf Grant]

Wow, it's getting very busy in there!

Great stuff Mark - really enjoying this.

Grant.

[composite guru]

Looks like a great build. I love the cockpit detail.

Nice work.

[Ads]

Yes i agree great building skills mate well done and keep it going!

Ads

[Honza]

This is cool stuff, Mark.

I admire everyone who chooses to find their own path despite of "ton" of aftermarket bits available. Lot of inspiration for my own builds.

Jan

[LSP_Kevin]

Another fantastic update Mark. Keep 'em coming!

Kev

[brewer]

Awesome scratch work! I'll be watching this one

[DougN]

Looking good Mark! One tip - the fuel line has a clear glass section (between your two blue sections on the top), so you might consider stretching some clear sprue (or using some clear rod) and making the whole line out of that if possible - or you can just stick a clear rod between the two blue sections if that is easier.

Doug

[Ta152H1]

Another outstanding build where skills put AM addiction to pasture!Back in the old days I was just like you but converted to today's AM bonanza out of laziness,even if I still scratchbuild many details myself!
I've enjoyed the K-4 build and I'll bookmark this one!You've got a great talent and it's always a pleasure to watch your in-progresses,Mark.
Keep up the good work bud!
Cheers
Lou