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Z M Douglas A1-H Skyraider


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#16 Out2gtcha

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Posted 03 March 2012 - 11:47 PM

Any chance you can photo this next to a jug or Corsair for a reference to its size?


Sure can Mike................Ill snap some pics with the XGFs camera tonight with a Has Jug and a Trumpy F4U-1. :)

Stopped by the camera shop and the Sony Cybershot I have was SUCH a great value for the money I wanted to get another Sony.............new Cybershot replacements dont come out for another 3 - 5 weeks. Bummer. Ill just continue to borrow the XGFs until then.......

Cheers,
Brian

Edited by Out2gtcha, 04 March 2012 - 02:22 AM.


#17 Out2gtcha

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 02:28 AM

I managed to get the entire man cave/modeling room squared away ship shape and restored to original working condition before starting the Able Dog -

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Any chance you can photo this next to a jug or Corsair for a reference to its size?


Ask and ye shall receive mi amigo!

A little size comparison -


Trumpy F4U-1:

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Hasegawa P47D:

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ZM Spad (fuse taped together as it comes on the trees in 3 parts):

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Brian

#18 Ads

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 03:41 AM

Great looking build shaping up - out of curiosity how much did it all cost? did you get it sent to you or at a shop?

Nice office!Posted Image


Ads

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#19 Out2gtcha

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 05:26 AM

Great looking build shaping up - out of curiosity how much did it all cost? did you get it sent to you or at a shop?

Nice office!Posted Image


Ads


Thanks Ads. :) I got real tired of going to Volks USA and seeing some part of the order I wanted (usually the weapons set) to place out of stock.............so I foolishly ordered everything (except the kit) from Volks Japan in frustration, so ended up spending more in shipping. Everything would have been about 220-ish or so If I hadn't gotten so antsy and waited for Volks USA to re-stock.

Brian

#20 Phartycr0c

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 02:04 PM

Oh Yes indeedy, I will be following this baby closely as there is one sitting in my stash, although ive been told, nay ordered, to complete some of the pre existing stash occupants before I can come anywhere near the spad :( !

Edited by Phartycr0c, 04 March 2012 - 02:05 PM.

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#21 Out2gtcha

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 08:14 PM

A little actual work proceeded on the start of the spad. Starting in the cockpit, I got going by taking the molded detail off of the cockpit sidewalls and taping together some of the major components in prep for the ZM PE –

These look like there is still detail on them but in reality they are smooth as a baby boot-

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Some really nice tiny and subtle raised rivet detail –

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Assembled rudder pedals –

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I started laying things out on the pit –

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I then started working off of the ZM/Eduard PE instructions that called for the center slot in the middle of the OOB IP to be cut out to allow a PE version of what I believe is a compass? –

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They show it in the previous pic as ending up coming through the hole in the PE IP……………THIS is where I encountered my first anomaly.



Putting the PE together as directed (using a piece of card stock in place of the PE part just for adjustment sake) ………………

Uh oh –

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As nothing will be seen behind the IP and under Harold's hood, I decided if I want to use this I'm just going to have to mount it directly behind the IP –



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Not sure I will stick it out, or leave it retracted..............but the PE part is very colorful and interesting looking.

I also got a head start on some of the parts that needed interior green…………that you will actually be able to see that is.
To that end on a side note……….I will not be installing any bulkheads, tanks, radios nor any of the like, if they will not be seen in the final product; which is a lot of the internal parts. To
me its just a waste of paint and time……….and I can fib and say its there………..and mine will look just as good in that area as the best ZM Skyraider ever built :D

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The rest of the pit will require some Dark Sea gray. I'm off to the LHS to get some dark Navy blue and some dark Sea gray!

Cheers,
Brian

#22 harvey

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 08:20 PM

YES ! the build begins! So far, so good. About silver plastic, I found out the hard way, that silver plastic leaves "ghost" detail behind, even though it is smooth. Tricky, huh ?.........Harv :popcorn: :goodjob:

Edited by harvey, 04 March 2012 - 08:21 PM.

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working on:

Trump P-38M

#23 James H

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 08:27 PM

Lovely work so far. I'll be watching this with interest.

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#24 LSP_Ron

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 03:03 AM

Neat! :speak_cool:

What's the plastic like Brian? It can't explain how a picture could define how hard plastic is, that said, it looks rather soft in comparison to others like Trump, Tamiya, Hase or Revell etc etc.

I guess I say that because it appears there are no real crisp and sharp edges to the parts. They look "soft" in detail appearance but still look good with paint.

Just curious.

Ron

Edit: Which I find over the years tends to be the case with plastics that contain metallic colors.
Ron



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#25 LSP_Typhoonattack

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 05:28 AM

The sliding gizmo you referred to Brian, is a retractable chart table.

Kevin

35 years ago I started off with nothing; and I've still got most of it!


#26 Youngtiger1

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 07:09 AM

Dang Brain, no rest what so ever. Well, this is going to be another nice project and must follow. So, will you be placing a toilet bowl under the wing? :wicked:

Mike

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Completed project: Trumpeter A-10A http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=32954&hl=youngtiger1

 

WIP: Fisher RB-51 Unlimited Reno Racer http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=40066



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#27 Out2gtcha

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 10:18 AM

YES ! the build begins! So far, so good. About silver plastic, I found out the hard way, that silver plastic leaves "ghost" detail behind, even though it is smooth. Tricky, huh ?.........Harv :popcorn: :goodjob:


YES, very Harv! The silver plastic is NOT my fav.

Lovely work so far. I'll be watching this with interest.


Thanks James.........I hope to have as lovely an experience as i think I will. :coolio:

Neat! :speak_cool:

What's the plastic like Brian? It can't explain how a picture could define how hard plastic is, that said, it looks rather soft in comparison to others like Trump, Tamiya, Hase or Revell etc etc.

I guess I say that because it appears there are no real crisp and sharp edges to the parts. They look "soft" in detail appearance but still look good with paint.

Just curious.

Ron

Edit: Which I find over the years tends to be the case with plastics that contain metallic colors.


100% correct Ron. It definitely looks softer than it actually is. REALLY reminds me of the old 70s Revell kits but harder. Most of the parts detail are actually not bad but the metallic plastic makes them appear softer than they are. I would have really loved it if the kit would have been molded overall in the light grey the fuse and other major components were molded in. :(

Things detail wise actually look WAY better now with the addition of some color PE; of which people can say what they wish about color PE, but there is no way Id be able to get that small with my detail painting.



The sliding gizmo you referred to Brian, is a retractable chart table.


Ah HA! That makes much more sense now..........as there are 3 interesting PE options to stick on the "table". Thanks Kev. You think there would be any chance it would be out while on the ground for any reason? (other than my own need to include it in the pit)
Or should I just put it in but leave it retracted?

Dang Brain, no rest what so ever. Well, this is going to be another nice project and must follow. So, will you be placing a toilet bowl under the wing? :wicked:

Mike


Thanks Mike!! I definitely gave thought to the toilet bomb! I even priced a Vern 1/35 (close enough) "bathroom" set for a knocked out WWII diorama set that included a very nice toilet..........but after getting the kit and all the other junk I decided to go with a more OOB approach; which is frankly unusual for me.

I just got done applying some shadows, highlights weathering, wash and detail work to the pit. I applied some Krystal Clear to each of teh PE IP interments so Im letting those dry overnight and should have a couple more progress pics this week. :D

Cheers guys.
Brian

#28 PhilB

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 12:38 PM

Well I thought it looked like the slide out tray for the pilot to have his dinner on.
That plastic does look kinda weird.
Probably as we're used to a plain colour type.
Does look much better under a coat of paint.
Nice to see you gettin' it on now mate!

:clap2: :clap2:

#29 LSP_Typhoonattack

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 06:28 PM


Ah HA! That makes much more sense now..........as there are 3 interesting PE options to stick on the "table". Thanks Kev. You think there would be any chance it would be out while on the ground for any reason? (other than my own need to include it in the pit)
Or should I just put it in but leave it retracted?

Cheers guys.
Brian


I think I'd install it extended with some charts just to be different. As to whether or not it was usually retracted while on the ground, I'd guess probably retracted.

Kevin

35 years ago I started off with nothing; and I've still got most of it!


#30 Out2gtcha

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 09:10 PM

Well I thought it looked like the slide out tray for the pilot to have his dinner on.
That plastic does look kinda weird.
Probably as we're used to a plain colour type.
Does look much better under a coat of paint.
Nice to see you gettin' it on now mate!

:clap2: :clap2:


Yeah definitely reminds me of the older Revell plastic............stuff looks just exactly like the plastic in my ahem, 48th scale B-58. I have found however that things return to normal (looking) once the plastic is painted. Not a huge deal as again it is not quite as soft as it appears. Detail in the pit before I scrapped it off was actually not bad. PE is much better but not bad...........

I think I'd install it extended with some charts just to be different.


Kinda my thought too Kev. :)

Brian




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