74 replies to this topic

[Derek B]

...and the next one please...

Some pics of the start of my next EMD master pattern WIP; a set of SG 500 Jagdfaust weapons for the Hasegawa 1/32 Me 163 Komet.

















(BTW, Radu's RB Productions Contour cutter saw sets are simply awesome!)

Derek

Edited by Derek B, 13 November 2012 - 06:49 PM.

[LSP_Typhoonattack]

These are the downward firing hollow charge weapons?

[Loic]

Very interesting and unusual Derek
Makes me realise I work with stoneage toolings

[Ads]

Great stuff Derek!

Ads

[AndersN]

Cool! Now I have to get a Hasegawa Komet

Will this be complete wings or just inserts?

Cheers

[Derek B]

These are the downward firing hollow charge weapons?

They certainly are Kevin!

Derek

[Derek B]

Very interesting and unusual Derek
Makes me realise I work with stoneage toolings

Thanks Loic - I generally use whatever tools I have to hand, which generally means the same few worn out tools!

Derek

[Derek B]

Great stuff Derek!

Ads

Thanks Ads

Derek

[Derek B]

Cool! Now I have to get a Hasegawa Komet

Will this be complete wings or just inserts?

Cheers

Thanks Anders - they will be inserts.

Cheers

Derek

[JRutman]

Cool idea Derek,
This weapons system would look right at home on "Captain America"
J

[Tnarg]

This is my favorite Komet besides the red one.
Thanks for making this one.

Tnarg

[Derek B]

Jerry/Grant...Thank you gents

Derek

[Derek B]

A little more progress...

Many modellers tend to find problems getting their two part epoxy Milliput putty to work exactly the way that they want to. There are some simple steps that can be taken to ensure that you are guranteed reliable setting of the putty - no matter how old the pack is! (I had - until recently - regularly used packs that were over ten years old successfully). Here is how I do it:



As can be seen above, most of my packs of Milliput are over three and a half years old - I shall select the oldest standard (grey-green) pack of Milliput for use...



As can be seen, with age, the two sticks (hardener and putt) become affected on their outer surfaces. The green stick has a very fine (almost microscopic) crystalisation effect all over, whereas the hardener stick develops a hard outer skin (looks pretty much like a suasage - the older the stick is, the darker and thicker becomes this 'skin').



The stick of putty (green stick) is generally OK, so apart from removing any hardened areas of surface crystallisation, no further action is required with this particular stick. The trick is to remove all traces of the dark brown skin areas off the other grey coloured stick - leaving any signs of this skin in the putty will cause voids, soft areas or hard inclusions. Here is the start of the removal process of the darker areas from the stick.



You can see that I have cut three slices here as I intens to mix enough for three good sized balls of putty. The 'skinning' process continues. You'll also notice that unusually, there is also a vein of the darker material running centrally through the stick - this also has to go, so the slice is torn open and the darker material is picked out - you are aiming to obtain
a completely uniform grey blob of putty. This does cause a little wastage, but you want a well mixed putty that will set smooth and rock hard without any internal soft spots, so it is worth the small sacrifice.



Two balls of grey putty ready, one more to go...



Here we have all three grey hardener balls and they are now matched with three green putty balls. I roll them into balls as the human eye seems to be very good at comparing sizes in this mode, which means that you will be able to mix two equal quantities of both putty balls together with great accuratecy (Milliput is mixed to a ratio of 1:1).



Here is the first two balls (of grey and green putty) mixed together. It is important to ensure that they are mixed together thoroughly, so much breaking apart and kneading is required until the whole ball is a uniform colour (sort of RLM 02 greenis-grey) - you know when it is ready, it goes very sticky and warm. I have used vaseline liberally on the insides and outside of the Komet wings as a release agent prior to applying the Milliput.



First amount of Milliput applied to the Komet wing, which is taped together and the insert apertures filled with Milliput. The second ball of Milliput is just about to be mixed.



The second ball of Milliput is mixed and is inserted into the wing just prior to it being trapped between the two wing halves.



Both wings have now been filled. Onmce hardened, these will create the SG 500 wing insert master patterns for both wings. Although these should be rock hard in 24 hours, heat can harden them faster, so they have now been propped up on my radiator overnight, so they should be good to go by this evening!

HTH

Derek

[LSP_Typhoonattack]

Boy can I relate;... a few years ago I used some improperly mixed Milliput, and it oozed yellow crud for months.

[Derek B]

Boy can I relate;... a few years ago I used some improperly mixed Milliput, and it oozed yellow crud for months.

(...Occasionally Kev, I still wear the Tee-shirt...)

Derek

Edited by Derek B, 28 February 2012 - 05:11 PM.