automaton Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 Hello All I've been working on this kit for a bit over a month. I have a build thread on another site, but since this kit is 1/32, thought I would also post it on here. If I'm not mistaken, there is a 10 pic per post limit on LSP, so I'll be making multiple posts initially to catch up with the build (not that it's been going that fast). I've been called a bit . . . erm, "methodical" , so we'll start with my obligatory tack fit pre-build along with some impressions of the kit that might be useful for those interested in building one. Also, there will be text directly on the pics, the italicized captions are just in case someone is trying to view the thread with translation software. OK, let's see if I have picture posting figured out . . . Test fitted: fit is pretty good with a few tweaks Front area of wings, wingroot fillets, tail section, and control surfaces are separate parts Red circled vent panel is tricky to fit--should follow flat contour of upper cowl. Exhausts seem to line up well in their openings Wing insert fit will need to be adjusted Fit at tail unit to main fuselage join will need work Probably best to remove the four pins and flat-sand the mating surfaces before gluing The large gaps shown here are only because the test fit had come loose. The soft rivet detail in th wheelwells will need work Test fit and first impressions to be continued . . . Regards; Automaton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automaton Posted February 6, 2011 Author Share Posted February 6, 2011 More test fitting . . . Rib detail may need toning down a bit, trailing edges probably need a bit of thinning Tail surfaces are poseable Some moderate sinkmarks on upper cowling Sinkmarks in cockpit above side consoles will need filling, the others won't show Engine detail is good, this pic shows only the major components fitted Easier to judge the interior after the silver plastic is primed Next we'll look at the instrument panel . . . Regards; Automaton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automaton Posted February 6, 2011 Author Share Posted February 6, 2011 (edited) Instrument panel sprayed to make detail more visible I don't really care for the clear instrument panel included in the kit-the detail is pretty heavy-handed. Also, the supplied instrument decals are not very good. "Plan A" was to cast copies of an old photoetch FW-190D panel I had lying around (the copies were to give me more than one chance in case I made a mistake while modifying the panel) . . . All this effort came to naught, however, as I couldn't find any instrument decals that were the right size for the bezels on the part I was going to use. I wasted a lot of time trying to print some gauges (never achieved the necessary resolution), then decided to use this beautiful Eduard panel (but now I won't have the luxury of spares if I screw up) . . . Next, some work on the cockpit . . . Regards; Automaton Edited February 6, 2011 by automaton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automaton Posted February 6, 2011 Author Share Posted February 6, 2011 (edited) The cockpit parts are on a sprue which is molded in a dreadful silver plastic. This stuff doesn't even seem like styrene . . . The piece of silver sprue was soaked in Tamiya cement for 30 minutes and was barely affected Replaced the molded rudder pedals w/photetch Am reworking cockpit rear bulkhead Red arrow points to heavy mold parting line which needs work, blue arrow points to photoetch seat rails While I was trying to figure out the instrument panel problem, I worked on some other stuff. I know some people are violently opposed to rivet detail on models, but I personally feel that it's needed in 1/32. I started with the easiest part, the horizontal stabs, to warm up . . . Horizontal stabilizer as supplied Rivets added with #1 beading tool Rivet pattern around lifting holes is tricky More on the odious riveting next . . . Regards; Automaton Edited February 6, 2011 by automaton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automaton Posted February 6, 2011 Author Share Posted February 6, 2011 (edited) Right fuselage half as supplied Red arrows point to where rivet pattern will conflict Decided to "move" the panels rather than rescribing Made resin copies of the detail and glued it into ground pockets Top panel turned out well, but bottom one is awful Had to redo the lower one Well, there's where it stands at the moment. I really like this kit so far except for one thing: the silver plastic. I haven't built anything molded in silver for a long time, but I don't remember it being like this stuff. Not only is it harder to tell when you have parting lines, etc. smooth, but it doesn't even behave like styrene-it's more like polyethylene or something. Zoukei-Mura have an excellent product here, but they could improve their future products even further very simply: by never, ever using this silver plastic again. OK, rant over. More when I have it; Automaton Edited February 6, 2011 by automaton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wurzacher Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 Hi Automaton,thanks for sharing this build with us here. I will surely follow your build. I especially like your term "oil canned" for the dimples on the engine hood . Mine will be filled with superglue.Wouldn't have it been easier to displace the rivets than to cut open the fuselage to re-position the maintenance openings?Nice start! I wish you fun with this build!Thomas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daywalker Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 Very interesting build to follow! Nice to see the troubled areas in detail, along with a description of what you are showing. I shall watch this one with great interest! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 Fantastic work mate! You're a real glutton for punishment. If I'm not mistaken, there is a 10 pic per post limit on LSP Yep, 10 images per post is correct. Also, there will be text directly on the pics, the italicized captions are just in case someone is trying to view the thread with translation software. Actually, this is a good idea for several reasons. Firstly, anyone with a vision impairment trying to view this thread using screen reader software would be completely stumped without it. You might be tempted to say, "but blind people don't build models or read modelling forums!". The truth is, the Internet's most important user is blind: Google. No search engine can index the bitmapped text in a photo. It's the one major downside to chukw's otherwise amazing graphic novel-style build threads. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 Great start! Thanks for sharing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automaton Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 (edited) Thanks guys! I managed to get the lower access panel looking pretty good tonight, but that's about all, as I ended up having to do a plumbing repair to my house tonight. Always something. Just to address a couple of things mentioned . . . Wouldn´t have it been easier to displace the rivets than to cut open the fuselage to re-position the maintenance openings? It was tempting, I admit, but not really feasible-the top access panel was very close to the panel line below, and the diameter of the rivets would have practically spanned the entire gap even if the rivet line was supposed to touch the panel line. The panel line interfered with by the lower panel runs all the way from the cockpit side sheet metal panel to the lengthening spacer panel line. This long, continuous line couldn't be "fudged" upward or downward, as it already almost touches the bottom of the electrical service panel at the rear. You obviously can't recreate every single rivet on the airframe just as it was in real life, and who knows how accurate the rivet plan I'm using actually is? However, once committed to the pattern, you invite all kinds of unforeseen geometrical consequences that may crop up later in the rivetting if you try to change it too much. You have to "split the difference" between your drawing and areas where the kit disagrees with it, but in these particular cases I didn't see any way to do that, so I had to make the kit agree with the drawing. Riveting models: an OCD delight! It's the one major downside to chukw's otherwise amazing graphic novel-style build threads. Yeah, I always enjoy Chuck's build threads. His text-on-picture approach appeals to me, and as they say, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, but a cartoonist I'm not. Regards; Automaton Edited February 7, 2011 by automaton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 I hate to say it, but The lower access panel was dead on.(in case of NASM H-0 and a bunch of 190s, the rivet line interferes with it)You may also check the 4+ Focke-Wulf Ta-152 publication. Here are some usefull pictures as well. http://www.thomasgenth.de/Ta152H-0_2.jpg Cheers Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rafju Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Hi Automaton Glad to see you by there! raf, fan of your post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automaton Posted February 8, 2011 Author Share Posted February 8, 2011 I hate to say it, but The lower access panel was dead on.(in case of NASM H-0 and a bunch of 190s, the rivet line interferes with it)You may also check the 4+ Focke-Wulf Ta-152 publication. Here are some usefull pictures as well. http://www.thomasgenth.de/Ta152H-0_2.jpg Hi Martin, never hesitate to post a constructive comment like that on any build thread that I ever post. I'd much rather know about a mistake while there is still time to do something about it than when it's too late. I actually haven't been able to find any high enough resolution pics of that area on a 152 to actually tell much about rivet detail. I don't have the 4+ publication, but I based my conclusion on a photo in the Aero Detail FW-190D volume. Although it's a 190D and not a Ta-152, the panel seems identical and I reasoned that the rivet structure would also probably be very similar. In the Aero Detail picture, one rivet line can clearly be seen running just above the panel, and one just below, but not actually crossing it. Whether or not it should have been moved has turned out to be a small point, though (I have another of these kits in my stash, and when I pulled the unstarted one out and compared, it turns out that I have moved the panel much less than I had thought). As Thomas said, I could have probably gotten by without all the work on this bottom panel. As it stands right now, I have one rivet line running just below and one just above as in the Aero Detail picture. I'll post a pic tomorrow night, see what you think . . . Hi Automaton Glad to see you by there! raf, fan of your post Hi Raf. Maybe since I'm mostly finished with this tedious fuselage riveting thing I've been wading through, this build will start moving into more interesting territory. Regards; Automaton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Hi Automaton. Thanks for the cool approach, I am glad that you did not take it personally . I was little squeamish about pointing that out. I am trying to help. I have one in my stash as well. I am planning to use fuselage from Hasegawa D-9 with wide tail+plus some minor corrections. here is a picture that compares the Hase. D-9 and ZM fuselage, with pencil marks of the rivet line and the misplaced/misshaped covers. Cheers Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automaton Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 (edited) Looks like you're anticipating a pretty ambitious build there, Martin. Should be interesting to watch. Here's a (not very good) pic of where my problematic access panel stands as of now . . . At least now the contour is right (my first attempt ended up "proud" of the surface contour around it somehow). This one is to a state where it would almost be good enough for gloss paint, so it should be fine under satin/flat. Most of my modeling time tonight was consumed by planning the instrument panel, comparing pictures, etc. Also compared the color of the color photoetch to the paint I plan to use in the cockpit . . . Stencil detail will have to be replaced, instruments will work mostly unchanged I plan to get started back on the cockpit in earnest tomorrow. I still don't know whether I'm going to adapt some existing placards or try to print something, but I think I've studied my references enough to have a clear plan of action for tomorrow at this point. It's going to be nice to be working on something other than surface detail for a change. Regards; Automaton Edited February 9, 2011 by automaton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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