Dave J Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Hi all,I have a few requests from LSP members to post this over here too... After Wingnut Wings released the DH.9a and W.29 in December, there were a few people that were asking to get myself or Richard Alexander to go online at The Aerodrome WW1 forums to shares some tips and tricks... And one of my friends was so kind and "outted" me, as I am a bit of a lurker over on "The Drome"... So some of the members twisted my arm to do a build... So here is my progress so far .... Please note this is a copy and paste to get you guys up to date.... ere is my next WW1 subject that I will build online, an Roland D.VIa freshly plucked from the WnW Warehouse. Hopefully I will be able to share some tips and techniques I use, and will help out some of the new comers to WW1 modelling scene. I am also a new comer to this era of aviation as my preferred subjects normally are from the Second World War.... This is my sixth WW1 painted & Rigged build, so if I can do it... I am sure that everyone else can! My chosen scheme for the Roland will be Otto Kissenberth black machine with the Edelweiss painted on the fuselage sides Now I'm off to cut some plastic off the sprues! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 Before I started at WnW, if someone asked me to paint a Wood grain finish on a model... I would mostly likely painted it with one tone of brown! As most WW2 aircraft didn't have a lot of bare wood showing I never learnt or really used this technique till now. This wood grain technique is very simple, all that is required is the following - Acrylic Paint for the base - Artist Oils and Mineral turpentine (not pictured) for the wash mixture - I picked up this oil set from our local online auction site, like Ebay for US$15. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 With the base colour now being dry, its onto the next stage.. I am going to use 4 different oil colours out of the tube to show the different tones that you can achieve using the different base colours. I will be using Raw Sienna, Burnt Sienna, Raw Umber and Burnt Umber. The oil colours are applied in the following order - Raw Sienna, Burnt Sienna, Raw Umber and Burnt Umber. XF-57 Buff base XF-59 Desert Yellow base XF-51 Flat Flesh base XF-3 Flat Yellow base Its a bit hard to see due the smaller sized photos, but the base colour gives the underlying grain a different tone. I will try to take some closer shots in the next few days to show this better... Once the oil tones have dried you again can change the appearance by using a clear yellow or orange vanish. Unfortunately with oil paints the drying time is slow.... I will come back to how to do a wood grain finish once I start building the Roland. Well it Christmas Eve here in NZ... So I hope everyone has Merry Christmas! and Santa brings your Plastic wishes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 Here are the larger photos as promised earlier... As you can see that the different base colours do give the underlying grain a different tone. I have split the photos as front and rear fuselage so I could get a closer shot. XF-59 Desert Yellow XF-3 Flat Yellow XF-3 Flat Yellow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 XF-57 Buff So this will give you a good idea of what kinda of outcome you can get with a few different colours. I would seal this in with a clear varnish, if you were happy with the tone achieved. You again can change the tone by spraying Tamiya Clear Yellow or Orange over it. Which I will post shortly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 as mention before you can change the colour of the wood by adding an tinted varnish. Here I have used Tamiya Clear Yellow and Clear Orange out of the bottle. Clear Yellow is on the top and Clear Orange is the lower surfaces. Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow Tamiya XF-15 Flat Flesh Tamiya XF-3 Flat Yellow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 Tamiya XF-57 Buff You can mix these two clear colours to get a shade to suit your requirements. I also forgot tho mention that you can do the same with the oil colours get different shades again, like I did here on the W.29 prop on the Wingnut Wings website to get that cherry/brownish colour. I finally got a few spare moments to cut out the interior parts and prep them so they can receive their base colours for the wooden components. I leave the parts attached to parts of the sprue for easier handing of the parts during the paint process. Normally I try to leave them attached to areas that will be covered up during the assembly. If this can't be done, I will just go back and touch up the areas later on in the build process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 My technique for wood graining is pretty simple and very easy to do. Its very similar to a technique that armour modellers use for weathering. I start off spraying the base colour to the part/s, this case I have used Tamiya's XF-59 Desert Yellow. Next I thin down the oil colour with some turpentine to a very watery thinned mixture. I apply the watery mixture the to the part to tint the base colour. Then I apply dots of the oil paint onto random areas of the part and brush them back and forth to get the grain look onto the part. You can add different colour dots of oil paint to achieve dark grains. It should look something like this one you have finished. Since the oil colours have been thinned drying time is a lot quicker. Normally I find that it is tacky dry in 15-30 minutes and 24-48 hours dry to handle. You can also cheat and use a hairdryer to speed up the drying time. I normally do this method and will spray a clear varnish over the parts to seal them in around 4 hours after using the hairdryer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 I finally found some spare time to work on the Roland, after returning from a wet Airshow up north and being a public holiday around the Wellington region today... The fuselage has been sprayed with Tamiya XF-76 and been given a oil wash Raw Umber. Cockpit components have been built up and painted as per the Roland instructions. These will get a oil wash also once I have varnished the parts with a clear semi-gloss. I used stainless steel wire for the control cables and rigging in the cockpit area, and attached by using PVA/white glue. I got this from my local LHS, but I believe you can get it from Smallparts.com. I also add a small amount of tape to an end of the wire, so its easy to locate if you drop it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 The harness has been added to the seat and awaiting a coat of XF-68. I will use this colour to undercoat the PE Harness and then brush paint them later on. Engine assembly has began and will have a coat of metallic paint shortly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 I sprayed a coat of Tamiya Nato Brown for the seat back. And then applied a burnt umber wash for wood grain, but it doesn't really show, So I think I will redo it with a bit of black oil paint added... I was going to add some detail to the engine. But since most of the engine detail is hidden away behind the Fuselage half's, once they are on, I decided just to stick to out of the box... So the engine has been sprayed with Mr Color Super Metallic SM05 Super Titanium. I don't use the Tamiya Metallic colours as I find them very grainy once they have been sprayed on. I only used the Metallic colours from Mr Hobby or the Games Workshop Citadel range. I prefer the Mr Hobby range as the results are great as you can see from my 1/32 Hasegawa Shoki that I built last year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 I forgot to mention as well that I do spray the Games Workshop Citadel range through my Airbrush. In the past I have used the Tamiya acrylic thinners to do so, but now I just use Isopropyl alcohol for all acrylics that I spray. I find this cheaper in the long run as a 4L of Isopropyl alcohol costs NZD$40-50 and a container of Tamiya Thinners is NZD$10-17 for 250ml's. While the seat and the engine were drying, I started to roll the cooling jackets for the Spandau. PE Fret has annealed as per the article on the Hints and tips area on WNW website. Plastic part cleaned up and awaiting the jacket.. The jacket part is placed around a piece of sprue that is the correct diameter, and rolled around it. You could use a drill bit or anything that is solid to do this. The jacket is removed and from the sprue and attached to the spandau plastic part, by using a drop of CA/Super glue on toothpick/cocktail stick. and the same is done again on the front to attach the ring sight to the cooling jacket And it's ready for a coat of paint! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Nice!!!!! Great wood simulation tips! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Very useful, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert Boillot Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Great to see this build thread here ! Beautiful work Dave Hubert. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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