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Canadair Sabre Mk2 427 "Lion" squadron.


williamj

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Thanks Brian...will do...But one question,why the Super Heavey Duty foil?

If you read Bucky Sheftall's foiling tips ,he points to thinner, cheaper, foil bringing out the detail better than thick.

 

Hmmm. I would have to say ( no offence to the guy as I dont know him) that he either has not foiled very many aircraft or has not gotten his technique deep enough into foiling to figure out the truth:

 

The THICKER the foil, the EASIER it can be "stretched" around compound curves. (WITH the help of a balsa wood burnishing "tool" and some Vaseline to keep the burnishing tool from ripping the foil as it stretches). The thick heavy duty foil will rip less and amazingly enough stretch around the compound curves like the nose of your F-86, wing roots, ect, ect..........Forward cowl ring on my F8F was done with very thick foil as apposed to very thin, to go around the compound curves of the cowl - same principal on the nose of the F-86:

 

DSC00328.JPG

 

Same with the wing roots around the air/cooler intakes:

 

DSC00309.JPG

 

 

 

The extreme compound curves of Dixie Boys wing roots are the same heavy duty:

 

DB_RFI_23.jpg

 

 

And he states a lot easier around curves

 

All I have to say about that is that if you have ever foiled much at all, and used the thicker stuff for curves like that ( and Ken will back me up on this as its where I learned it from), you will find that statement is just plain not true. The thinner stuff really does wrinkle a TON more and has a tenancy to rip WAY more.

 

.I have the addhesive,burnishing,fine steel wool part of it,but the material itself,

here you have a 2 dimensional object going over a 3 dimensional object and thinking... shouldn't thinner be better?.

 

Plain and simple answer? No. The thin foil does not stretch, and rips very easily. Another advantage of using the thick heavy duty foil, is that if you do happen to make a little wrinkle in it, with the thick stuff you can actually use some 600 sandpaper and sand the wrinkles out of the foil, if they are minor.

 

I use the thin cheap stuff ALL the time, with different graining techniques, and applied with shiny or dull side up..............BUT I DON'T use it around strange curves, NOR around any area, that I want to paint on top of the foil.

 

The thin stuff does show the detail better though. He was right about that.

 

Bottom line is go out and get yourself every brand, thickness and variety of foil you can...........then experiment with the two different sides, as well as different things to create the graining effect.

 

HTH.

Cheers,

Brian

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Thanks for clearing this up Brian..Am finally getting my head around this,and with the little bit I have done, can see exactly what

you're explaining.Your experience with foil shows in the pics,hope we can do as well. :D

Again..Big thanks Brian.Cheers.

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Looks great so far Bill...

Thanks Dave..give us a call.

 

 

Most instructive thread for a sabre-fan!Williamj :clap2:

Thanks....yup,have a soft spot for Sabres.

 

 

Great tutorial Bill! And I'm looking forward to your "foiling"

 

Barney

Hey Barney..hows things?...thanks for encouragement, but we're full of doubt at the moment.

 

 

Hi Williamj,

following your thread is most educational. Thought I knew something about the Sabre, well I was wrong! :tumble:

Thanks again..still learning myself. Edited by williamj
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NP at all. Let me know if I can help in any way, once you get to that stage with the Sabre..................tis looking sweeet so far!

 

Again, I think that experimentation and getting all different types of foil really helps. BTW, not sure what type of foil glue your using but I think between Ken and I, we have tried almost every type of white glue out there that could be used for foiling.

 

Ill save you some time if you aren't already using it..........Just go straight to the good stuff:

 

mi08.jpg

 

Take it from me............anything else will just be a waste of your time, as even though the MS foil glue looks like any other white glue, it for whatever reason doesn't act like just any other white glue. Seems to work way better than anything else Ive tried.

 

Also, get yourself some auto-body "bondo spreaders".............used to spread bondo and filler on cars. Makes easy work of EVENLY spreading out the glue on the foil section your working with. :D

 

 

Cheers,

Brian

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  • 2 weeks later...

Work on the Sabre Mk2 is coming along .New wing finished,and yes ..you will have to "thin" the wing down to line up with slat bed.not a bad thing as the wing needs thinning anyhow...just a bit of scribing left..new tailplanes,re-worked rudder,new vac windscreen and canopy, and canopy rails are done.

...Turns out to be a bigger job converting to a Mk2 than anticipated.. but can see the light ahead B).enjoying this one.

 

F-86A_3PIX.jpg

Canadair Sabre Mk2...

DSCF3492.jpg

pics make the wing look to chubby...cheap quick pics

DSCF3496.jpg

DSCF3489.jpg

Edited by williamj
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Work on the Sabre Mk2 is coming along .New wing finished..just a bit of scribing left..new tailplanes,re-worked rudder,new vac windscreen and canopy, and canopy rails are done.

...Turns out to be a bigger job converting to a Mk2 than anticipated.. but can see the light ahead B).enjoying this one.

 

F-86A_3PIX.jpg

Canadair Sabre Mk2...

DSCF3492.jpg

pics make the wing look to chubby...cheap quick pics

DSCF3496.jpg

DSCF3489.jpg

One thing's for sure Bill, you sure know how to rattle a Sabre! Your cockpit looks fantastic. I don't know of anyone else that can do justice to an RCAF Sabre the way you do. Good luck with the foiling!

 

Cheers,

Wolf

 

 

 

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Hey Wolf...Thanks,but have run into problems in the foiling dept.because I had filled all the panel lines and most rivets and did a full re-scribe and re rivet(hours on the Fus.), we have a lot of filler and several layers of primer,in some areas 3 to 4 coats,when burnishing the surface trying to get the detail up it de formed somewhat..groves,trenching,looks like cr@# kind of thing.have pulled and repaired and now think perhaps it would have been prudent for the first foil job to have been done on a clear,smooth,hard plastic surface.Not prepared,and lack experience.So me thinks 12 shades of Alclad and I can save the hours spent on the work and detail.I'll finish it up the same as the CT-133 was done..it's either that or it'll end up in the bin. Sorry for the bad news but I suck at foiling,and my hats off to Brian,Ken,and the rest who do it justice. <_<

Cheers for now..post more later.

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Regardess of any issues with foiling, the model is turning out really well!

 

.........have run into problems in the foiling dept.because I had filled all the panel lines and most rivets and did a full re-scribe and re rivet(hours on the Fus.), we have a lot of filler and several layers of primer,in some areas 3 to 4 coats,when burnishing the surface trying to get the detail up it de formed somewhat..groves,trenching,looks like cr@# kind of thing.have pulled and repaired and now think perhaps it would have been prudent for the first foil job to have been done on a clear,smooth,hard plastic surface.

 

I think your probably on to things Bill. Neither Renalds wrap, nor the cheap stuff and really not even BMF sticks very well to filler/primer. However ive also found the amount of the Microscale glue layer you have on is critical too. Its a delicate balance for sure!

 

Either way, Alclad II, or foil, this is shaping up to be a winner Bill. The wing work is awesome. If you want to give foiling another whirl let me know, otherwise im :popcorn:

 

Brian

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Ok...after several missed attempts and configurations.. I think we finally have the windscreen :hmmm: .

Just have to frame it,add some rivets,a "hat",the reflecting armor plate inside and de-misting lines.

Lots of tidying up ..but were gettin close.

PS..sorry about the pics but my good camera is on holidays. Cheers.

DSCF3536.jpg

DSCF3538.jpg

Edited by williamj
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How did I miss your latest???

Beautiful as usual.

Need anything, let me know.

Harold

Thanks again Harold..how are things workin out with Sprue Bros? must be better ;)

Still have to finish the chaff tank and jammer fot the T-33,have made the masters but just lack the push,get back to it in a while,have another T Bird on the pile but it's behind two builds at the present.thanks for the offer but don't need a thing right now.

Cheers my friend.

Edited by williamj
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Thanks again Harold..how are things workin out with Sprue Bros? must be better ;)

Still have to finish the chaff tank and jammer fot the T-33,have made the masters but just lack the push,get back to it in a while,have another T Bird on the pile but it's behind two builds at the present.thanks for the offer but don't need a thing right now.

Cheers my friend.

Gordon is making me WORK!!

That is good I guess.

Good to see you back.

Harold

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a quick one..wing is in..had a shape issue forward of the leading edge wing root and under side of fuselage ahead of wing due to the leading edge moving aft,after looking at my line drawings and photos had to reshape and re scribe,bit o work but no biggie.Happy with the slats and slat bed,can't see the arm apatures as they are covered with tape,have re sized and opened up the external power socket panel as this one will have a ground power unit plugged into it as well as a couple of figures etc.Winter scene.Should start to shine in a week or so.but it's "Devil in the details" as someone pointed out...wish me luck. Cheers.

 

DSCF3571.jpg

DSCF3566.jpg

DSCF3565.jpg

Edited by williamj
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Bill, please send this to me when you're done! I know how dusty things can get in your neck of the woods. Here, closer to the coast, the rain keeps the dust down and I'll make sure it stays clean. There's no point in feeding a model this nice to the dust mice or the even larger and far more dangerous dust bunnies! Hey, I'm just tryin' t' help!rolleyes.gif

 

You are definitely one of the best Sabre rattlers I've ever met!

 

Cheers,

Wolf

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