Thunnus Posted December 9, 2017 Author Share Posted December 9, 2017 Great show. Sincerely, Mark Thanks Mark! Your G-14 is one of my references for late 109 builds. Super cool work with the drop tank and canopy especially! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorbenD Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 Shaping up nicely John Torben Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 Very nice work. That spinner looks boss! MikeMaben and Thunnus 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 Glad the JB Kwik worked out for you, John! I have some on its way to me now, and plan to use it for some upcoming resin kit builds. Kev Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kahunaminor Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 (edited) John, for your glue options, try JB Weld Kwik. I've used the non-quick stuff, and it sets like concrete, but takes about 6 hours. The Kwik, which I haven't used, but allegedly has the same properties, sets in 4-6 minutes, curing properly in 4-6 hours (IIRC). I'll be purchasing some myself in the next day or so. Kev Kev, From John's excellent tutorial, I see one of the tubes is marked "steel", the other obviously hardener. Does that mean it comes in various colours? Also availability here in the Great Southern Land? The church of the Big Red Hammer perhaps? Regards, Edited December 9, 2017 by Kahunaminor Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 Kev, From John's excellent tutorial, I see one of the tubes is marked "steel", the other obviously hardener. Does that mean it comes in various colours? Also availability here in the Great Southern Land? The church of the Big Red Hammer perhaps? Regards, Steel doesn't refer to the colour, but the actual content - it's apparently a steel-impregnated paste that, when mixed with the hardener, basically gives you a viscous liquid steel. The original JB Weld was developed to fix cracked engine blocks, I believe, but takes about 6 hours to go off. The version John has used is meant to have most of the same properties, but goes off in 4-6 minutes. As for availability down under, here's where I ordered mine from: http://jbweldit.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=2 It's harder and stronger than any other adhesive I've ever come across. And amazingly, even it won't stick to polythene! Kev Kahunaminor and Thunnus 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 JB weld is great stuff! Once I bought an aluminum canoe from a livery. It had damage where the bulkhead rivets had made holes on the skin of the boat from years of wear. I just made large blobs over the holes, and gave it time to dry. I fished with it like that for years. Gaz Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 (edited) Very nice work. That spinner looks boss! Edited December 10, 2017 by mmaben Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted December 10, 2017 Author Share Posted December 10, 2017 (edited) Thanks for checking guys! Hey, the spinner HAS to look boss on a 109 build, right? The JB Kwik Weld is an interesting glue. On my test bed, I did some shaving and sanding of the excess stuff and it behaved very nicely under the blade and sandpaper, at least within the few hours of application that I had played with it. Surface was very hard but the dried glue had some flex to it. It seems to be a very strong adhesive and possibly a good filler material for certain situations. The patch work on the cowling/fuselage joint continues. I used Milliput White for this as it is easy to sculpt with water. Very helpful for curvy situations like this as I can get into the general shape ballpark very quickly using Milliput and a dampened piece of paper towel. An application of Mr Surfacer 1000 to fill in the little imperfections of the Milliput sculpt and some sanding brings me one step closer. This is going to take a few iterations to get right. Trying on the spinner! The drop tank has been given a flat coat. I still need to perform some weathering on it. Anybody got any good pictures of the heavy stains that the 109 drop tanks often exhibited? The little pipe at the front of the tank got pushed in during the painting process and will need to be replaced. Edited April 17, 2018 by Thunnus sandokan, Paul in Napier, Kahunaminor and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted December 10, 2017 Author Share Posted December 10, 2017 (edited) Transitioning the AMUR Reaver cowling into the rest of the fuselage is turning out to be much easier than I had feared. Maybe all of that worry and prep work paid off. Or maybe I got lucky. Whichever... I'm grateful! After one round of Milliput + Mr Surfacer 1000, the more significant port side overhang looks pretty much in hand after a primer check. Same with the starboard side. Just some minor touch-up with putty and some refining of the panel lines should finish the upper transition. I still have to deal with the bottom of the wing root to cowling connection. When the putty is drying, I keep occupied by doing other little things like fashioning a tension spring for the aerial and mounting it on the mast. Edited April 17, 2018 by Thunnus LSP_Kevin, Fencer-1, daHeld and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fencer-1 Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 At last! Now this "Gustav" with proper-size engine looks more powerful! Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted December 11, 2017 Author Share Posted December 11, 2017 (edited) Yes, the Reaver cowling adds a definite bulge that better implies the underlying powerplant upgrade than the Revell molding, I think. I'm putting the finishing touches on the transition by putting back some of the panel lines. Checking the look of the canopy pieces in place after the engine cowling has been mounted. Edited April 17, 2018 by Thunnus Kahunaminor, MikeMaben, monthebiff and 9 others 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 You blended that cowling in the impressive expertise, John! Kev Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 Nice! Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kahunaminor Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 Bloody marvellous! As my son would say “You have mad skill!†Regards, Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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