Out2gtcha Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 No matter the application nor applicaTOR, from my experience with it, it should be called "Mr Mark Destroyer" Zero77 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Cross Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 I don't understand the problems you guys are having. I apply both with the brush applicator that comes in the cap. I lay down a coating of the creamy stuff, and then when the decal has lain down properly, the clear stuff. That dries it out. Never, EVER had a beading problem. And never had it destroy a decal, other than if I wait too long and try to tug it in this direction or that one. Seriously, this stuff is THE BEST. The uniform camo on this diorama is ALL decals, and very thick, non-cooperative ones, too: Zero77 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 Are you sure we're talking about the same product, Bill? What's this "creamy stuff" you mention? This is what I have: Never had it do anything other than bead up and destroy every decal I've applied it to. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davral64 Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Oh great, my go to mail order place was out of Microscale so I ordered this stuff. Yikes! Can it be thinned with water or something so it's not so harsh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelingbob Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 (edited) Mr Mark Softer does bead up pretty badly. Nothing you can do about it. The secret is to use the brush to apply it sparingly (you're using too much if you get big beads) and after it starts beading up to carefully wick it away with a soft cloth/paper towel by very gently dabbing away the excess. I usually take a section of paper towel and use only the weight of the paper towel to wick up the excess (ie, I'm not actually pressing on the towel). Small beads don't matter but big beads will melt the decal finish. For those of you who vouch for Mr. Mark Softer, how do you stop it beading up? That's all it ever does whenever I use it, and it doesn't seem to matter the provenance of the decals. I brush it on the decal, and it beads up. And then of course, if you leave it like that, it eats through the decal! Every. Time. I've been advised to apply it with a cotton bud instead of a brush, which helps a little, but the solution still has a tendency to bead after application, and this makes it completely unusable for me. What's the secret? Kev Edited January 4, 2018 by modelingbob LSP_Kevin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelingbob Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 (edited) Kev, the "creamy stuff" is Mr Mark Setter. The "clear stuff" is Mr Mark Softer. I use both like Bill. In addition, I do NOT use this system on thin aftermarket decals (it's way too "hot"). I am one of the few people who actually like Tamiya & Hasegawa OOB decals, because the Mr Mark system works fantastically on them. There is no better decal system for thick decals than Mr Mark. Are you sure we're talking about the same product, Bill? What's this "creamy stuff" you mention? This is what I have: Never had it do anything other than bead up and destroy every decal I've applied it to. Kev Edited January 4, 2018 by modelingbob LSP_Kevin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Thanks, Bob. I don't have the Setter, as I find that using such products tends to make decals a bit too 'grabby'. Is Mr. Mark Setter meant to be used over the decal, rather than under it like Microset? Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 It was always my understanding Mr. Setter is intended to go under, to help with setting such as Microset. As it is pretty hot, it is probably melting the glue causing it to grab. I would thin it a bit with water to help set decals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelingbob Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 (edited) Kev, You can use it both ways. It was designed as an agent to improve wetting action and adhesion of decals (under the decals) but it also contains a weak softening agent (and can be used on top of decals). I typically use it under the decal, but if I have a very large decal I use it atop also as it will soften the decal slightly and you can then use a soft cloth/cotton bud to manipulate the decal for quite a bit without destroying the decal. This really helps around compound curves, like the nose decal in this picture as I was able to stretch it slightly to conform to the complex nose geometry without destroying the decal (yes, those are Tamiya OOB decals on that model, so much for the widely held view that Tamiya decals suck!). There is no way in heck I would have been able to use that nose decal that beautifully with any other decal set/softners and it certainly saved my rear end for this project because I really wanted to do BBD! A warning though, Mr Mark Setter does leave a slight residue behind when it dries and softens some acrylic clear coats. Thanks, Bob. I don't have the Setter, as I find that using such products tends to make decals a bit too 'grabby'. Is Mr. Mark Setter meant to be used over the decal, rather than under it like Microset? Kev Edited January 4, 2018 by modelingbob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Cross Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 I use the creamy white stuff to make the decal adhere better when it's off the sheet. You can slap down some on the surface, then apply the decal. Give it a chance to work and then apply the clear stuff on top. That helps iron out the wrinkles. Allow it to dry, and if there are still bulges, add some more of the clear stuff. CANicoll and Lothar 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto21 Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 You can reduce the beading of Mr Mark Softer by shaking the bottle before you apply it. I never used to shake it, and always had issues but since making a point of shaking it before using it, I've had far less problems. Matt LSP_Kevin, Bill Cross and Gazzas 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 I find the creamy white stuff (Mr. Mark Setter) helps a lot with the decal sinking in to the detail... but it quite often leaves a white stain on my paintwork. CANicoll 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 Wonder what acrylic varnish is least affected by Mr setter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 (edited) Thanks, Bob. I don't have the Setter, as I find that using such products tends to make decals a bit too 'grabby'. Is Mr. Mark Setter meant to be used over the decal, rather than under it like Microset? Kev Mr Mark Setter = same purpose than Micro Set Mr Mark Softer = same purpose than Micro Sol But way hotter. I dont really like those Gunze decal products either. I've had too many disasters. I only use them when any other product does not work, and i'm about to scrap the decal and do another way (like using other decals or use some masks). Edited February 5, 2018 by Zero77 LSP_Kevin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Cross Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 Wonder what acrylic varnish is least affected by Mr setter. I use the Vallejo clear matte varnish exclusively now. Hardcore and CANicoll 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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