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Tamiya Birdcage Corsair


Durangokid

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Thanks guys, glad to hear the engine isn't over done...

 

Peter..  I use the maskol to mask the parts where glue is going to go, that way it's not a mess gluing painted parts.  It is so much easier for me to glue with clean attachment points.  It takes a bit more time but not as much as you would think.  

 

I painted the cylinder head with Alclad aluminum and then masked them to paint the gray part of the engine.  Hope that makes sense.  I really like maskol cause its very thin and I can mask parts with very good accuracy.

 

Bryan

Thanks Bryan for the explanation. I can see the benefit. I normally scrape off the paint on the male part with a scalpel, but don't bother on the female part as styrene or CE glue does dissolve the paint and still gives an acceptable bond. But I will try your method when an opportunity arises. The only problem I have with masking liquids is that they try on the brush very quickly and making it difficult to clean the brush - and the shelf life of the stuff is short after opening the container.

 

I found your weathering on the engine very effective. Did you use a sponge to apply the darker grey weathering on the grey engine cover? Looks great.

 

But I share your sentiment on the wheel bay weathering. Ask yourself, how can the weathering and chipping occur on the real aircraft? The weathering with the various colour variations looks great, but the chipping I am not sure about.

 

Will this be a land or carrier based aircraft? If the latter, the chipping is maybe a bit overdone.

Cheers, Peter

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Absolutely stunning!

 

I'm currently building the F4U-1A kit and it really is an amazing piece of engineering.

 

You will love the kit, so far my favorite of all time.  I like it better than the 48th scale Tamiya Tomcat I recently built.  I'm gonna start selling some of my stash so I can buy the 1A version.

 

Thanks Bryan for the explanation. I can see the benefit. I normally scrape off the paint on the male part with a scalpel, but don't bother on the female part as styrene or CE glue does dissolve the paint and still gives an acceptable bond. But I will try your method when an opportunity arises. The only problem I have with masking liquids is that they try on the brush very quickly and making it difficult to clean the brush - and the shelf life of the stuff is short after opening the container.

 

I found your weathering on the engine very effective. Did you use a sponge to apply the darker grey weathering on the grey engine cover? Looks great.

 

But I share your sentiment on the wheel bay weathering. Ask yourself, how can the weathering and chipping occur on the real aircraft? The weathering with the various colour variations looks great, but the chipping I am not sure about.

 

Will this be a land or carrier based aircraft? If the latter, the chipping is maybe a bit overdone.

Cheers, Peter

 

It's gonna be a land based marine bird.  For the engine I used various shades for gray shot through my airbrush.  Then I gave it the usual pin wash.  After that, I  flicked various oil colors on with a stiff brush.  After that dried a bit I used a soft brush to dull the effect.  I learned that from one of Mig's books I borrowed called the Encyclopedia of Aircraft.  I'm really trying to expand my weathering abilities and that series of books have been invaluable.

 

I may tone down the wheel bays but I'm still undecided....

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You will love the kit, so far my favorite of all time.  I like it better than the 48th scale Tamiya Tomcat I recently built.  I'm gonna start selling some of my stash so I can buy the 1A version.

 

 

It's gonna be a land based marine bird.  For the engine I used various shades for gray shot through my airbrush.  Then I gave it the usual pin wash.  After that, I  flicked various oil colors on with a stiff brush.  After that dried a bit I used a soft brush to dull the effect.  I learned that from one of Mig's books I borrowed called the Encyclopedia of Aircraft.  I'm really trying to expand my weathering abilities and that series of books have been invaluable.

 

I may tone down the wheel bays but I'm still undecided....

 

Thanks for the detailed explanation on your engine weathering. I have the five volumes of the Encyclopedia of Aircraft Modelling and it is indeed a great resource. I currently reading through it a second time as there is so much information to discover and indeed to experiment with.

 

I would think that more chipping occurs in the wheel bay with a land based bird. But there would be also lots of dust, so maybe toning it down a tad would improve the look.

 

Cheers, Peter

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got my masks so I'm back on track.  I wanted to do the 8-ball scheme so David Hansen was kind enough to sell me the decals from the Barracuda sheet he wasn't using.  Unfortunately, there are a few differences in the way I built mine like the engine flaps and the seat rest.  So I'm not sure what to do. I may save them for my next build and just use the Maketar mask set.

 

I painted the lights starting with Alclad chrome and then painting the lenses their appropriate color.  I like the way it came out the the chrome underneath the lens.

 

wfSEE8.jpg

 

us6tyF.jpg

 

2aUsRU.jpg

 

 

 

I want to use the black basing method so I painted a very thin coat of Alclad black micro filler.  I really like the Alclad stuff.  I thin it with MC leveling thinner and it sprays really nice.  I spray it just enough to use the basing method as I don't like to lay a bunch of paint down and cover up a lot of the fine details.

 

7pgM32.jpg

 

 

 

The last time I used masks, I had a lot of problems with a thick paint edge and keeping the circle nice and round.  This time I kinda did every thing backwards.  I started with the white part of the stars and then laid down the star mask.  Then I painted the dark blue part of it.

 

aIdnCa.jpg

 

 

Here is where I ran into a problem.  I didn't plan ahead and ended up masking the blue part piece by piece.  My original plan was to cut large circles and lay them over the stars but I couldn't make perfect circles.  Oh well, it took a little longer but I got where I wanted to be.

 

nCdeeH.jpg

 

jWRiHH.jpg

 

 

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Here is my version of the black basing...

 

AR4myM.jpg

 

QMfChC.jpg

 

RHpJwI.jpg

 

 

I make an attempt to not paint over the panels lines so hopefully it will show through the paint.  It takes a bit longer but I hope the extra work will pay off in the end.  I used this method once before and it turned out okay but I ended up covering up too much of the details.  Hopefully I won't make the same mistake with this build...

 

Bryan

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Looks good so far Bryan.

 

When i did my very first set of painted on insignias i too laid on too much white paint, and when i removed the masking i got what i call "The Oreo Cookie Problem".

 

The way to do it is to paint the white first, before any camouflage goes on. The large 32nd scale American insignia are very prone to distortion while sliding them off the backing sheet, and given that the alignment on Corsair insignias is so critical, what i find works best is to put the star on first, and get the alignment perfect. Then i build up the rest of the masks around the star, and then remove the bits as necessary to apply the insignia blue, after which i re-apply the masks and camouflage the model.

 

I love the end results, but it is a bit of an intellectual exercise determining when to paint and mask what...

 

-d-

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Thanks for the comments guys :)

 

I planned on using a sponge to do some chipping but I don't think it looks as nice as regular way with acrylic paint.  The latter doesn't work for me since I use Mr. Color and MRP paints.  On a whim, I decided to experiment a bit and see if it was possible using my paints.

 

I painted the silver part with Alclad aluminum after a primer coat.  I did 2 or 3 coats of Mig heavy chipping fluid and let it dry completely before the next coat.  I don't know if it takes that much but since I'm not using acrylic paint I figured the more the merrier. Plus, it doesn't seam to build up at all, in fact, it's like spraying water.  Then I spayed MRP Grey/Blue and started the chipping as soon as it was dry to the touch.  It worked great and didn't take a lot or work to get the paint off.  I only used a stiff brush to get this affect:

 

Dy5fje.jpg

 

I had to stop working the paint or it would have all come off.  Since I was looking for the two tone affect on my build I decided try it using Mr Color's chromate yellow.  I did same thing only this time I painted the yellow paint first.  I chipped the yellow then applied a clear coat with MRP clear.  Then spayed a few more coats of chipping fluid before painting MRP Blue/Grey. After working that with a stiff brush, I came up with this.

 

1e5wmD.jpg

 

 

 

 

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This is the first time I have ever tried to chip with this method much less using something other than acrylic paints.  It didn't turn out perfect but I'm happy with my first attempt.

 

Unfortunately, it kinda defeats my basing/preshade.  I'm gonna have to figure out a way to work that in next time.

 

So first the Alclad Aluminum...

 

nqgidL.jpg

 

dHRFs8.jpg

 

uJLmH4.jpg

 

 

 

Chipped Mr. Color Chromate Yellow

 

oA3kJL.jpg

 

ddLaJv.jpg

 

 

 

MRP Blue/Grey and the final result...

 

yszlpn.jpg

 

VdXMDn.jpg

 

2kewOu.jpg

 

jkbuxk.jpg

 

 

I was so worried I would screw this up but I think it came out okay.  I still have some blending to do with the rest of the plane but I didn't want the paint to completely set up.

 

So what do you guys think?

 

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