39 replies to this topic

[Joel_W]

I'm happy to supply anyone with insignia files in vector format

 

Jennings,

  Thanks for the offer. I'll sure be taking you up on the offer when I get to that point.  

 

  Not only do I need the cutter, but I need to buy a printer as well. My old one died a few years ago, and I've never had any reason to buy a new one until now. Not looking to spend more then $100 max on a printer as the only use I'll have for it is in the mask creating process.

 

Joel

[mmaben]

You don't need a printer to create masks.

You 'will' need a scanner to scan images

from decals you already have.

[wunwinglow]

Learn how to create vector artwork from scratch too. Just tracing stuff means you can't do anything original!!!

[Jennings Heilig]

Excuse me if I missed it, but does anyone have a recommendation for mask material that has an overlay film on the top to allow you to apply the entire mask and then remove pieces one at a time?  You really can't do that with the kabuki tape.

[sluggo]

Most of the guys that buy stuff from me use extra Oracal 810 or pre-mask (paper transfer tape) which I supply when necessary.

 

If you want to try the pre-mask which is a paper tape used in the sign industry I suggest using the pre-mask they recommend for Oracal 631 which is their removable wall vinyl. 

[Out2gtcha]

Excuse me if I missed it, but does anyone have a recommendation for mask material that has an overlay film on the top to allow you to apply the entire mask and then remove pieces one at a time?  You really can't do that with the kabuki tape.

 

 

I have found for me personally, by far and away THE best solution for overlay/transfer tape for myself was going to Hobby Lobby or Michaels and picking up a pack of clear 8x10 frisket film sheets. I just cut a section of the film to match the size of the mask im currently working with. 

 

The film has pretty decently low tac, you can put it over Oracal 810, and get it removed to weed very easily. The best part of using clear frisket film, is that is IS in fact clear, and you can very easily see exactly where you mask is going even when applying the entire mask, and weeding out the negative or positive parts after you put the whole thing down. 

[Joel_W]

You don't need a printer to create masks.

You 'will' need a scanner to scan images

from decals you already have.

 

Mike,

  Thanks for that info. I eventually figured that out, so now I'm looking for a decent scanner under $100  that just has to scan color into a black and white file.

Joel

[mmaben]

You bet Joel. I have an old Epson flatbed.

Something like this should work well : http://www.target.co...cB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

I don't see any reason you would have to convert an image to black and white tho ?

[Joel_W]

Mike,

  Thanks for the link. I've been checking out Best Buys, and now I'll checkout Target, as they're literally right next to each other by me. 

 

Joel

[wunwinglow]

Any scanner will do. I use a Canon MG5550 desktop scannerprinterfaxcopierpaperweight thingy, and it works just fine. The artwork output for your plotter will be vector data, so if you are tracing over a scanned image, it isn't the scanned image that ends up defining the stencil, it is how cleanly you have drawn the traced vector image. Which is why it is so important to get to understand the vector drawing tools.

 

As usual, a bit of effort is required, but once you understand how to draw accurately, you will probably find you can do pretty much what you need from scratch. OK, tracing over a bit map might help with some things, but making sure stroke widths on lettering will be vitally important, and you will NEVER trace a bitmap that accurately!

 

And also once you can draw accurately, and you realise the output is EXACTLY the same as that needed for a laser cutter, a whole new World of possibility opens up!!