Steve Eagle Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 Thomas, I think I might still have moulds that I made for the canopies, prop/spinners,and engines. There should be a picture somewhere in The LSP site of the built-up kit. Be aware that the wing chords are not equal from anterior wing edge to the posterior wing edge. I used the Bunrin-Do and the FAOW books for information. Also, the Monogram Japanese cockpit book is also useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 There should be a picture somewhere in The LSP site of the built-up kit. Here it is: http://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=1008 Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Lund Posted July 3, 2013 Author Share Posted July 3, 2013 If anything is wrong with this model then I'd like to know. A simple photo just doesn't do that - although it was a nice build !! I just dont get what you mean with anterior and posterior wing ??? So please elaborate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Eagle Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Thomas, if you match the left and right wing chords at the fuselage joint lines, you will see the differences. Also the nacelle positions and contours on the wings will need some reworking. If you have specific questions, I would be glad to help. I have some cockpit information that I could scan and send to you if you wish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Eagle Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Also, the oil coolers inside the cowlings come from the Eduard Ki-43 set. The Spinners and props were modified from Ki-43 ones. The tail wheel was from a Bf-110 kit. The outline of the canopies in the kit are wrong, and I did my own vacu-form canopies. I love the lines of this aircraft, and I have to say the efforts were worth it. The ID kit had some nice "BluePrint" drawings to get a lot of the outlines corrected. Sorry about the rambling. Let me know if you need more info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee White Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 I'd suggest, as a first vac attempt, just build it as simply as you can, for the learning experience, and worry about total accuracy later on on other models when you have the know-how to correct the problems. Derek B and Out2gtcha 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 I'd suggest, as a first vac attempt, just build it as simply as you can, for the learning experience, and worry about total accuracy later on on other models when you have the know-how to correct the problems. Yeah, I agree with Lee, Thomas. It's certainly what I did! You can always build another Ki-45 with all the stops pulled out. Kev Lee White, Derek B and Out2gtcha 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 I'd suggest, as a first vac attempt, just build it as simply as you can, for the learning experience, and worry about total accuracy later on on other models when you have the know-how to correct the problems. Yeah, I agree with Lee, Thomas. It's certainly what I did! You can always build another Ki-45 with all the stops pulled out. Kev Sage advise on my first attempt as well. I think that's exactly what Im going to do to the extreme..............gear up..............no engines ect, ect. There is going to be a LOT of reference material for me too pour over when I start my build! You guys are even tempting me to start my first vac in the GB............ Lee White and Derek B 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Lund Posted July 4, 2013 Author Share Posted July 4, 2013 I think I'll take the middle road - fix what is doable without a major scratchbuild effort. However I dont like gear up models, so it will be gear down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Lund Posted July 4, 2013 Author Share Posted July 4, 2013 (edited) I didn't notice the coolers in the intake before. Before I thought the Vector engines were a bit overkill because not much would be seen. With the cooler practically nothing will be seen so now it really is overkill. Too bad. Found another drawing in the Maru Mechanic book, so I inserted that into the CAD program and retraced the frames as before. This time it was pretty damn perfect except for one frame, the one at the tail wheel/rudder pivot. Interestingly the frame distances on this drawing were wrong - even when compared to the drawing itself - and the total didnt come to the correct 10600mm but the ones from the original source were dead on. Think I'll trust this drawing I'll trace the major outlines locations and print this in 1/32nd to use for reference when building Edited July 4, 2013 by Thomas Lund Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic C.D. Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 Building a vac kit sure takes a lot of preparing, doesn't it? With an IM kit it's just a matter of taking the box and start building it. The effort of building a vac is very rewarding though. The first reaction upon seeing a vac kit built up is often "hey, there's no kit in 1/32 of that plane"... I like that. Looks like you are right on track, Thomas! Is cool ! Nic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Lund Posted July 5, 2013 Author Share Posted July 5, 2013 So the result is these two drawings, just need to print them in 1/32nd. Tonight I'll match them up against the plastic - that's where it gets interesting sandokan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Lund Posted July 9, 2013 Author Share Posted July 9, 2013 Ok, I finally got my drawings printed (needed A3 paper) and compared to the plastic. First impression - mostly good. Fuselage aligned by the spar just ahead of the rudder gave a perfect match to the cockpit openings - great !! Nice accordance along the fuselage. The nose is too long. I want to do the earlier rounded nose and I actually thought that the kit was just that, but it seems it is the later more pointy version or perhaps something in between. Doesn't look pointy enough for the late version to me. A little work is needed there. Wing shows a good match to size and outline although I need to watch the root area to get the right angle and span. I was warned about the wing roots not being equal, so I tried matching them up. Doesn't look like a problem But the one really bad thing is how the nacelle looks on the wing top. Doesn't look anything like the drawing (need to look into it, but I think the kit is off there). This will be a major problem to fix, so I might (!!) leave it as is, considering it is my first vac... In any case, I'm set to start building the interior. Looking forward to that Derek B and sandokan 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee White Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 Looks great, Thomas!! Glad to see you getting started on this model! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Lund Posted July 11, 2013 Author Share Posted July 11, 2013 I decided to do something about that nose. I taped the fuselage together and jam-packed the nose with some kinda clay - I think that's what is called celluclay in English speaking countries. I plan to let it dry and then pry it out. Using the drawing i will carve away until it looks right, them remount it and use a hair dryer to deform the plastic until it follows the celluclay plug. Hope that works Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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